Reddit mentions: The best photographic lighting booms & stands

I'm very happy with my Godox gear so far. I also considered Yongnuo, but I like Godox' wireless system is a lot better. In fact, I think right now they have one of the best wireless systems on the market.

Basic setup:

A hot-shoe TTL flash is a great place to start. I'd suggest the TT350N for that; it's small and convenient to carry. It's strong enough to light up a dark room, and to overpower ambient lights. If you use it as a bounce flash, you don't really need any other accessories.

I use the TT350 for all the bounce photography. Bounce is very simple and convenient. Its small size is very handy here, because it doesn't throw off the camera balance or really get in the way.

I personally bought the V860II-N as my first speedlight. I realized it was a beast when it arrived; way more flash than I needed on my hot-shoe. Here's a size comparison: http://imgur.com/a/jFpvM

I'm glad I have it though; it's great in multi-point lighting and it's nice to have a more powerful option should I need it.

Off-camera setup:

The next step up from there is to move the flash off-camera. For that, you'll need a stand, a head, and a light modifier.

You can use a tripod, but a light stand is a lot simpler to setup and break-down. To mount a light to the stand, you'll need and either a hot-shoe adapter or the flash foot. The simplest and cheapest modifier is a photography umbrella. You'll need a mount to attach an umbrella to the stand, though most hot-shoe adapters will also hold the umbrella.

I use the Godox S mount adapter and a soft-box. The benefit of the adapter is that it can use other Bowens mount light modifiers if I want to try them in the future. It also holds an umbrella.

You'll also need a way to trigger the flash. You can use your on-board flash for this, but I went with the Godox X1 trigger. This is a radio trigger, and does TTL. It cost $40. A very nice thing about the X1 trigger is that it can control the speedlights remotely; I can change power and other settings from my camera, which cuts down a lot of back-and-forth. It's also a lot more reliable and convenient than using an optical trigger.

Multi-point setup:

The next step after that is multi-point lighting. If you already have a speedlight, radio trigger, etc. All you really need are more flash heads. The nice thing about multi-point lighting is that they don't all need to be the same speedlight. Usually, you use different power levels and modifiers anyway. In my case, I have a big powerful speedlight, and a small portable speedlight. When I'm out and about, I can grab whichever is best for the job.

You can use manual (non-TTL) flashes for multi-point lighting. This is best if you don't intend to use ambient as a light source or don't mind fiddling to balance ambient with the flash. A lot of Godox's manual flashes still have built in wireless support, which makes them a good inexpensive solution.

The sky is the limit:

From there, there's a whole world of lighting. Strobes powerful enough to make the sun look dim, lighting modifiers, etc.

Quick edit: A number of companies resell Godox' products. Flashpoint is the most prolific, but there's also Bolt, Neewer, and a couple others.

One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.

As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.

If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.

Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.

From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.

Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)

> would like to go with Yongnuo for the triggers (YN622) and flashes themselves (probably 1 565EX and 1 560).

Good choices. But, you could get a 568EX which supports High-Speed Sync. This would allow you to use flash more effectively outdoors during the day. Otherwise you are limited to the normal sync speed of your camera.

The YN-622 support HSS so you're good there -- if you get a 568EX.

> I have no idea what to go with for the stands (Maybe Manfrotto Nano or Lumopro Compact?)

Both of those lightstands are great. I've actually found generic ones that I'm somewhat happy with: http://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-ALS-Cushioned-Included-Equipment/dp/B003TM600U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410198056&sr=1-1&keywords=ravelli+heavy+duty+light+stand

> swivels

What's important with an adapter is that it's full-metal -- none of this plastic housing or cold-shoe bullshit. I have these and they're fine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EGE39A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> umbrellas

Are you sure you want to go with umbrellas? A softbox may be better for on-location work, especially without an assistant (outdoors, with an umbrella and no assistant, if it's windy, you're pretty much screwed). You may want to get one umbrella and one softbox, that way you can switch them between key and fill in two light setups, and pick whichever one is more appropriate for one light setups.

If you do want to go with umbrellas, size is the primary consideration. ~45" is probably a happy medium for on-location. I have had some ~30" umbrellas and found the light quality to be not so great. And I have a ~60" that I love, but rarely take on location unless I know I will have a lot of room indoors (60" umbrella is a big fail outdoors, even in low wind) and not have to move around a lot.

Another thing is the ribs -- aluminum ribbed umbrellas may wear out quicker. However, I don't think that umbrellas are a "buy it for life" thing at all and I've never been concerned about build quality in my umbrellas.

I use and recommend Impact convertible umbrellas.

If you want a softbox, I can recommend Westscott Apollo 28" as a good on-location softbox for hot shoe flash.

> I'm also not sure what modifiers to pick up for using an on-camera flash, like a softbox (LumiQuest Softbox or Lastolite Ezybox?), the Gary Fong Lightsphere that everyone has, or something else (LumiQuest Quik Bounce?).

Modifiers for on-camera flash don't actually do much. A bounce card of some kind is nice to offer catchlights when the light is bounced but that's about it. Save the money that you would have spent on on-camera modifiers and buy Neil Van Nierk's books and some beer instead.

> I will put some good rechargeable batteries (Eneloops?) into my budget

Good.

> is there anything else that I'm missing?

Since I do a lot of run-and-gun type work at festivals and conventions (often conventions have very high ceilings and bouncing the flash is difficult) as well, one thing that is very helpful to me is my painter's pole and a Kacey Pole Adapter ( http://www.amazon.com/Kacey-Enterprises-Pole-Adapter-Extension/dp/B00ANZVFME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410198878&sr=1-1&keywords=kacey+pole+adapter ).

Check out Syl Arena's blog here: http://pixsylated.com/blog/longarm-and-metalhead/

While it's ideal to have an assistant, I often use the pole solo. By simply holding the painters pole as if it were a walking stick (maybe you could say a wizard's staff at the con), with the end on the ground, in one hand and shooting with the camera in the other hand. In order to shoot like this, you will generally want to use a shorter focal length to get directionality and softness in the light. I try to shoot 5 feet away from the subject with this setup. The smaller shoot-through umbrellas are great here because placement is less precise. But you could use the 28" softbox as well.

Absolutely! I'm gonna leave it here so anyone scrolling by can see it, but I'll also DM you and the other person who asked for it so you don't have to check back in the thread.

NEEWER 2-Pack 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light, LED Light for Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Panasonic,SONY, Samsung and Olympus Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07438JXM7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cIS2Ab7JHAYCT

(Despite some reviews claiming the battery life is poor or the output is low, I've had nothing but great experiences with these panels. With the batteries I use, I can do a surprising amount of shooting before the batteries die out. Not only that, I only have two batteries. So the fact that it is often enough for what I do is astonishing. Also, the output is just fine. In fact, bright enough at max output that it hurts your eyes without a softbox. With the softbox it is perfectly bright for most occasions. If you need brighter, look into the Neewer CN-216 or CN-304. Just be ready to warn people about their brightness.)

Neewer 5.9x6.7 inches/15x17 centimeters Camera Collapsible Diffuser Mini Softbox for CN-160, CN-126 and CN-216 LED Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXCGA28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CQS2AbBYSF5KE

(It has gone up a bit in price since I bought the two that I own, but it still offers excellent performance for the price. These are specifically made for the CN-160 panels. They diffuse light excellently, but at a minor cost. They are a bit of a pain in the ass to place onto the panel. At that price, though, you can't complain too much. You should be careful with them, as some have said that they don't take kindly to being handled roughly. My advise: take your time and do it carefully.)

Neewer 2 Pieces 2600mAh Li-ion Replacement Battery with Charger for Sony NPF550/570/530, Fit for Sony HandyCams, Neewer CN-160 CN-216 LED Light, Neewer 759 74K 760 Feelworld 759 74K 760 Field Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDC47YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gVS2Ab3RDJ319

(Outside of another tiny price increase, there's not much to say about these. They do the job incredibly well for what I put them through. However, NP F550 type batteries aren't meant to last incredibly long shoots. If you do long shoots, invest in a few more batteries and consoder using the larger capacity NP F750 type batteries.)

Fovitec StudioPRO - 2x 7'6" Classic Light Stand Kit - [Classic][For Photo and Video][Includes Carrying Bag] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j0S2AbBBPVA2J

(These light stands have served me well. But, as with all cheaper gear, they won't withstand care that is too rough. They've handled plenty with me, but I recommend you try to take care of them. Other than that, they're just light stands.)

Bonus:

Neewer 12 x 12-Inches Pack of 8 Transparent Color Correction Lighting Gel Filter in 8 Different Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f3S2Ab6ZCYTAD

(Some cheap color gels. Get the job done.)

Of course I must include: This is all cheaper starter gear. It is not meant to replace the more expensive light kits that are much more durable, do much more and produce much better results. But restriction breeds creativity. And a passionate, new content creator with a creative eye will make the best of what they have. If you are a starting filmmaker, videographer or photographer, by all means, use this setup. Once you're ready to move onto better, more costly equipment, though, don't hesitate.

Hi /u/misdy - welcome to /r/videography! I am a big fan of ring lights because you only need one to get nice, even light.

With two or three, it looks like you have a whole studio full of lights.

I started out with a [$120 AC powered Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1V6QAU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B1V6QAU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), which I bought after I saw this review: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html

This is a fabulous light, but I needed a light that was battery powered and portable - so I bought a small, but powerful [$199 F&V R-300 Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$25 Milk Diffusion Filter] (http://www.adorama.com/FVMWDR300.html?KBID=66297).

Here is what the lights look like on a [$28 pair of light stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001WB02Z4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20): https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG

The R-300 runs on either a 12V AC adapter or a [$10 Sony camcorder battery] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). I bought a couple of them along with a [$19 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg).

You can also buy a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297) for it and put it on a set of 15mm rails. This light does a great job in the field as well as in the studio.

Here it is on my camera: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rhqiHavOnGM/U1J4paO2vRI/AAAAAAAAIrk/eW1mhniD0gY/w724-h543-no/P1120708.JPG

Two F&V lights, two stands, a couple of milk filters, two batteries and a dual charger and you'll have a pair of cool, powerful and compact portable lights that will fit into very small spaces - all for about $500.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

Here is another picture of the sensor itself:

http://imgur.com/VJgtyLj

Here is the gear that I used:

Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).

Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.

USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.

Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).

Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20

That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.

Now for a background setup

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC

Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.

Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.

Hi /u/roxmuffin - understand from your post history that you're in Canada?

If so, here is what I recommend with a $1000-$2000CDN budget:

Camera

• [Panasonic FZ2500 with a 1" sensor and a built-in 20x power zoom - $1469CAD] (https://www.amazon.ca/Panasonic-DMC-FZ2500-Digital-Camera-Megapixel/dp/B01N0J5UFA//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-20) (unlike the NEX-5R, the FZ2500 has a mic jack so you can record directly to camera plus a fully articulating LCD so you can flip it forward and see yourself from in front of the lens).
  
  Audio
  
  
• [BOYA BY-WM6 UHF Wireless Omni-directional Lavalier Microphone - $209CAD] (https://www.amazon.ca/Wireless-Omni-directional-Microphone-Continuous-Operation/dp/B01BY1IT24//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-20) (here is an in-depth test of the Boya's range and susceptibility to interference from nearby cell phones [starting at 4:20 in this video] (https://youtu.be/Cb39csJwR6I?t=4m20s) - this mic does a great job out to over 200 feet, which is pretty darned good for a UHF mic in this price class)
  
  
  Lighting
  
  
• [2 x Neewer CRI 90 432 LED PT-650B Dimmable Bi-Color Light Panels - $149.99CAD each] (https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-3200K-5600K-Temperature-Brightness-Adjustable/dp/B06X9SNCJZ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-20)
  
  
• [2 x Neewer light stands - $37.99CAD] (https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Photography-Reflectors-Umbrellas-Backgrounds/dp/B00WS9XSSC//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-20)
  
  The FZ2500 also records slow motion at up to 1080/120p and has excellent stabilization if you ever want to use it for handheld shooting.
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [Panasonic LUMIX FZ2000/FZ2500 4K Video "The Greatest Journey in Hokkaido" by Martin Wallgren] (https://youtu.be/C-kaamEC8Ms) (2160p)
  
  
• [Panasonic Lumix FZ2000: prueba de video en 4K by Photolari] (https://youtu.be/Hfv_nl1ZRg0) (2160p)
  
  
• [Quantum Blue by Giulio Sciorio] (https://vimeo.com/190600746) (1080p - fashion)
  
  
• [Panasonic Lumix FZ2000 - first Impressions (Cinema 4k/UHD) by Sieben Leben] (https://youtu.be/60iStRO6cRA) (2160p)
  
  
• [48 Hours In Paris FZ2000/ FZ2500 by James Martini] (https://vimeo.com/191961649) (1080p)
  
  With V-LOG
  
  
• [Panasonic FZH 1 / FZ2000 / FZ2500 V-Log Grading Exercise by Chan Joey] (https://youtu.be/n1LdQcLn9ms) (1080p)
  
  
• [Panasonic Lumix FZ2000 / FZ2500 / V-LOG, Panasonic LUT, and IWLTBAP LUTs / Video Samples / 4K by Claudinchenchen] (https://youtu.be/B-HnSMW2cQM) (2160p)
  
  In my view, the FZ2500 is the best-in-class fixed lens, power zoom still/video camera at this price point and will be a lot easier to operate than your interchangeable lens, manual zoom NEX-5r
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the right camera for your needs!
  
  

>What's up talented people. I'm a newb (recently got a d3300 15-55 kit lens and 35 1.8 lens) and want to shoot some portraits and headshots of my friends in my apartment. They're mostly classical musicians so the shots would involve their instruments. I like this kind of look and also this. Prefer a grey background.

You do get that whether the background is black/grey/white mostly depends on how you light it and whether you can light it separately from your subject? :) But those do look a lot like one-light portraits. But possibly a bigger light than a speedlight.

>... I have a 6' wide x 9' high white wall and ceiling in my apartment in a room which receives a fair bit of natural light.

Those portraits are not using natural light. And with only 9' of height, I think you can probably do torso/head shots easily, but full length might be a bit of a challenge. So, if you have to shoot a string bass or cello player, it may be a bit more work to get the instrument into the shot.

Also, a 35mm lens, used close in, can distort in a way that's not flattering for portraits. It may actually be that you need a bigger space (so you can use a longer lens or compose for a wider shot).

>The floor is brown. My budget is around $200.

Get a bigger budget? I mean, you can do it for $200. You can certainly get your light and trigger for that, but you also need a light stand, a way to attach your light to the stand, and a modifier (if you want that nice soft light). And having to cheap out on everything is less than ideal.

>What sort of gear would you recommend?

A $110 TT685 TTL speedlight. And a $1 sheet of black craft foam and a rubber band to flag it off. Learn to use on-camera bounce flash with a BFT. You could get results similar to those shots you like without off-camera lighting.

I would highly advocate not going to off-camera flash yet, if you've never used a flash before. A single TTL-capable flash (like the Godox TT685), with 360º swivel is a much much easier place to start when learning flash. On-camera bouncing with TTL is good for social/event shooting or chasing kids around the house. And because it's much much simpler to learn flash exposure basics and how to balance flash against the ambient, if all you've got to worry about is an on-camera flash and which way to point the head. You will also have all the flash features (TTL, HSS, 2nd curtain, etc.) to play with this way. And you can still learn about the importance of the quantity, direction, color, and quality of the light.

Off-camera lighting means hauling a lighting bag along with your camera bag.

Wait until you bump up against the limits of bounced flash before you start looking to do off-camera studio setups. It won't take long, but it will also give you a chance to stage purchases, and get the basics under your belt, so that when you go off-camera, you just have to worry about the off-camera bits; not try to learn/buy everything all in one go. And you will hopefully be able to spend a little more.

Also, $200 total, may get you a crappy barebones off-camera setup, but you probably want to budget a bit more than that, because the more lights you use, the more you have to multiply your lightstands, possible triggers, and modifiers. And the harder and more complex it gets to figure out the light-think. And starting out with, say, a $40 Amazon Basics flash and add-on $20 triggers is inconvenient and a PITA, vs. say a $65 Godox TT600 which has HSS/remote power control from a built-in transceiver that works from the same Godox transmitter that can control a TTL TT685 in TTL. And to which you can also add Godox studio strobes.

A typical Strobist beginner setup would be a lightstand, umbrella swivel, and convertible umbrella (a white umbrella with a black cover, so you can use it as either a shoot-through or a reflective). But an umbrella, while very useful and can be a cheap/easy-to-set-up way to get soft even light, is going to make controlling the spill and falloff of the light a little harder than a softbox. But a softbox is typically going to be more expensive starting out. A cheap convertible umbrella might be about $20-25. Cheap softboxes/octas are more like $40-60. And a lot of softboxes would require a bracket, not an umbrella swivel.

> Is it realistic to expect to produce something similar to those sample links?

Similar, yes. Identical, no. :) I think those are shot with bigger studio strobes with octas, not an off-camera speedlight in an umbrella.

Thanks for posting

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The obligatory "just got my Vive" post by ncviver


Damn. God damn. It's really, really good. I had some ordering issues (because I used PayPal Credit and didn't create an HTC account I couldn't check the order status on my own) but it arrived quickly and works so so well. I got two of these tripods plus two of these brackets since I wanted some mobility. So far I've used it in the living room with two tripods and in my bedroom with one of the included wall mounts and a tripod. It works great, though I do plan on installing the other wall mount (plus these two in the living room) soon.

My only complaint at this time (after maybe 3 hours of usage) is that it seems like a major oversight that there's not much instruction on how to adjust it to fit your head. Initially, I was actually pretty disappointed-- the FOV sucked and apart from a narrow sweet spot it was quite blurry. But after finding this guide it's working fine.

but yeah, right now I'm really impressed. I've only really played around with The Lab so far since my wallet is a bit too sore to start buying tons of games, but I'm guessing that'll happen pretty soon.

	

	

	

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Thanks again, your responses, as consistently demonstrated, carry weight.

1. My PC only has one hdmi port. I'm guessing here, I'll need to purchase a hdmi splitter? - if that's the correct term Basically, the splitter will be a minibox itself with several input/output hdmi ports. This way I can get that other hdmi cable from the pc to my tv. Hoping amazon.com got my back here.
   
   
2. Smart regarding 3D printed enclosure, please report back when you manage to set it up. I am definitely intrigued. Those links are wonderful. Thanks. The second retractable you linked looks real good, the heavy duty in the title is what attracts me. Gives me sense of security for the cables. I might have to get a larger ring to add less friction as the cables pass through and from it.
   
   Regarding ceiling, I live in an apartment, don't want to drill holes up there. I'll look for alternate methods of setting it up and share my discovery here with you guys. Maybe what I find can facilitate mobile as well. Quick thought came to mind. If find a sturdy enough lightstand upto 9-10 feet with some kind of hangover pole think traffic light main pole protruding out the sidewalk, and the pole attached to it hovering over the street, holding up the lights Something like that. Attach one of those heavy duty retractable's onto it.
   
   I use these light stands for my vive motion trackers. I'm thinking something along these lines with the attached pole hovering from the top extending outwards: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are clips that are used to hold a phone, and they are pretty stable, but that depends on what it's connected to. I don't think a microphone stand at 6' in the air will give you very good results, especially if people are walking around it.

The next problem is that tripods that go that high can be very expensive. Instead, I recommend using a light stand. This is what people in video production use to hold up their lights. They typically extend a lot higher than a tripod, and they're more stable than a microphone stand. Obviously a tripod is more stable for shots when you're doing panning and tilting with a video head, but for static shots this is the best solution for you. The other issue is that you wouldn't be able to adjust the direction of the camera with them, but we can fix that will a cheap ball mount.

Here's what you'll need to get this done:

• Manfrotto phone mount with a 1/4-20 thread.
  
  
• Ball adapter to adjust the direction of the camera on the light stand. These are fairly cheap, but you don't need anything that heavy duty for such as small camera. The phone mount connects directly on top of this.
  
  
• This light stand will work fine. It goes between 3'8" and 8'5", so that should cover the height you need + a few inches for the camera mount.
  
  
• This adapter connects the 1/4-20 thread on the top of the light stand to the 3/8 thread in the bottom of the ball head
  
  Hope this is helpful!
  
  All links contained within this post are affiliate links

/u/tokuturfey - this is what I suggest also.

Ring lights give you great light with or without a soft box. Here's a great review/tutorial on what you can achieve with a 3 point ring light setup using the Diva Ring Light: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html

The great thing about the F&V ring light (unlike the Diva) is that it can be either battery or AC powered - and it is much smaller and easier to set up.

I have both the Diva and the F&V (as pictured [here] (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG)), and will buy the smaller F&V lights from now on.

You can get three [F&V ring lights with soft boxes for $269.99 each at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/FVSBBRLR300.html?KBID=66297).

Three ring lights, with 3 stands ([2 for $22] (http://amzn.to/1vjJXtl) and a [single for $15] (http://amzn.to/1tlfUDo)), 3 [$10 Sony FP-batteries] (http://amzn.to/1vjKvQ1) and an [$18.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=111315155908&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) will give you a great 3 point lighting setup for less than $900.

Good luck!

Hey there, this weekend I'm going to be taking pictures and my brother-in-law and his fiancee's wedding shower. They didn't ask me to do this but they are ok with me doing it. Really, I'm not interested in the shower but I have to go so I thought it would be a good time to use my new gear (its all new to me basically, just getting in to photography). And if I'm going to take pics, I want them to turn out at least decent. The last thing I want is to take pics and then not be able to share them because they came out terrible.

Anyways, I was wondering if somebody could give me some ideas on how I could utilize my equipment, especially my flashes (never used those before). The room is a "community" room in an apartment building. Its rectangle-shaped room with entrance doors on opposite corners. I think the lighting are chandelier type things with CFL bulbs, I don't remember right off hand.

Nikon D7200 (probably getting a Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 tomorrow, I already have a Nikon 50mm f/1.8)
These stands: https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-Photography-Reflectors-Modifiers-Collapsible/dp/B00HNZJLG4/
Two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075F3G6J3/
Two of these: https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-System-Wireless-Speedlite/dp/B01EFUHRPQ/
One of these: https://www.amazon.com/YN622N-TX-Wireless-Controller-Transmitter-Function/dp/B00NJGMICU/

Any help would be super appreciated!!!

if you're in a controlled environment and starting off but want some flexibility instead of like throw away lights, I'd recommend these. I picked these up before I started working with lighting to start upping the quality of my sets for a reasonable price.

Hopefully this fulfills your needs.

The panels come by themselves so you'd need light stands and batteries/ac adapters.

15W LED panel with controllable WB, brightness, ok diffuser, with excellent build quality and light quality.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VDOGX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WMBACbR8EQH95

These are the stands i use with it

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_of_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00K69A0QY&pd_rd_r=4d2f8b3c-32ed-11e9-9916-7fe6d01b346e&pd_rd_w=RqPSv&pd_rd_wg=khx5z&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=HAKTWDZ21BWGF51HWG43&psc=1&refRID=WC3EXZSZCRPV77880CEX

This a charger/batteries for it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMFZ9CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EWBACbG88NJT0

I'm actually the husband from this shindig, but I would suggest making sure it has good lighting. Most likely the venue won't have a perfectly lit spot for a selfie booth all ready to go (honestly some places might, but check/make some preparations) I work in production so I set up a pair of 500 watt photo floods with some 45" umbrellas on a pair of C stands (any stands will do I just had these on hand) if you can snag some cheaper stands on amazon this is a really quick easy way to get pro looking light where you want it. There's also tons of ready to go kits on Amazon like this, but I can't really vouch for any of them specifically.

You may want to chat with your DJ/photographer and ask if they have any of this equipment and would be willing to rent it. If you don't see yourself using it again or don't want to be the ones to set up/take it down.

Definitely this. Even learning to bounce flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photos. Some of my favorite photos that I've taken have been in large part due to the lighting used. A few yongnuo flash units, umbrellas, stands, and triggers and you can really get into some lights for cheap. They won't support high speed sync, ETTL, flash groupings, or anything like that which means you're setting everything manually. What better way to learn, though! For under 300 bucks you can get a 3 flash setup and start taking some really great photos. If bounce is your thing you can get the Yongnuo 565 which puts out tons of power and does a great bounce (was the sole flash in that second photo). The only thing I wish it has was high speed sync.

Because I'm in the process of clearing stuff out of my house in preparation for moving, I opted to use camera tripods for the tracking stations. Here's a picture of one.

The tripods that I bought were these ones from Amazon UK. At the time they had a 2x 3m option for £22, but that seems to have disappeared now. I also grabbed two of these to allow angling of the tracking stations, otherwise they're fixed facing parallel to the floor.

Some notes after setting up the Vive and using them for a 4 hour session of Audioshield:

• Tracking is perfect without jitter.
  
• Mounting them is easy with the items I linked above, although I suggest you mount before extending the tripod otherwise you're manhandling a 7-foot pole (ooer).
  
• The tripods wobble a bit on carpet after you're done mounting, this is fine. They'll stop wobbling and to be honest given the top-heavy setup, I'm surprised how little they wobble. I haven't noticed any wobbling while I've been using the Vive.
  
• It might well be the case that having carpet dampens the shocks from moving around in the room - having tripods on a wooden floor would probably result in them vibrating to every footstep. I can't be certain of this though.
  
  Overall I recommend tripods unless you're ok with wall mounting. They work well. Just get decent quality ones!

I am trying to do a complete carry-on ultra-lightweight interview kit. So I'm an old guy, and not a big guy. But I wanted something I could single-handedly carry on a plane, on a bus, in a cab, as a pedestrian. It should be no more than two cases and I should be able to carry them in one hand while carrying a personal bag in the other. It had to be everything needed for talking head interviews including lights, camera and sound. That means my setup is much more restrictive than yours, but it works. This effort is based on doing quite a few films in Europe using only what I could carry.

Nothing I could find really made it easy. The biggest problem has been powering options, so I made the decision that it had to be small fixtures that could be used close to the subject with reasonable running time. Everything had to be battery-powered no cables or outboard power supplies were needed.

I bring 3 lights and 3 stands. This light is a fairly soft key, adjustable, 18-watts, built-in rechargeable battery. Then I have three of these very small point-source lights, (also with built-in batteries and they come with a variety of gels). One of these is used as a backlight, another for possible light for a background. Add these for mounting one or two of these Lowel umbrellas. These turn the point-lights into a nice, soft fill. Each of these lights will run 60 minutes or more at full power, much longer if reduced. Also, running time can be extended with a couple of these. I can get nice exposure and shallow depth-of-field at ISO 400 or 800. (Double or quadruple operating time at ISO 1600.)

Amazon has this light case that is checkable and can hold this lightweight Velbon tripod with a fluid head plus three or even four of these Neewer stands plus some gels and a small roll of gaffer tape.

My camera case is a small older one with a Nikon label. It holds my Panasonic GH4 or GH5 with 12-60mm lens plus 3 batteries and a USB-powered charger. There's also room for all the lights, an iPad, and a 4-port USB charger, which charges everything.

And...(are you ready for this?) the sound is in this kit, too. The secret here is the PicoGear PicoMic dual wireless mic system. This thing really does what it claims: two wireless mics with good range and run all day and the whole system goes in your pocket, plus the bonus of no body pack or cables to hide.

I'd appreciate your comments.

Great thread and thanks for sharing! I'm ordering some of what you listed.. :)

Here is what I have already purchased and am using:

Mini tripods for the base stations as I haven't set them up permanently yet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006I1KQQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wireless headset so I don't have to deal with the audio cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZC3S72I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active HDMI cable as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active USB 2.0 cable again as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PLLA9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also just ordered a set of 7' tripods for mounting the base stations:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the tape that I used to hang my curtains (much heavier than the vive sensors), but it's really hard to get it to feel secure because of the small amount you can actually apply to both the sensor and the wall while it's plugged in. My final solution has been these: https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

They are definitely high enough, and if you buy the little ball adjuster thing that is the most commonly purchased item with those stands you'll be set. They are safe and secure and ive never had a tracking (or line of site between the two sensors) issue like I was having using the curtain tape.

So I only know a few of these.

1. I'm not sure. I only use hdmi to hdmi
   
   
2. If you don't want to cause too much damage, my best suggestion would be to get 2 tripods with heads that can angle downward. In my own room I had to re-position the lighthouses multiple times, which meant multiple holes in the walls.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Are just the tripods I use now.
   
   
3. 2m x 2m is enough for roomscale, however I don't know if I would consider it a decent roomscale experience, I myself run a 3.8m x 3m space and I even feel like that is pretty small. I also cleared out all the furniture possibly blocking lighthouses, so idk about that.
   
   
4. Your computer monitor/TV will always display the view that you see as well, even if a game does not open a separate window, steam VR has a setting to 'show mirror' so other people can see what you see.
   
   Other than that, hope you get the answers you want. Cheers! (The Vive is awesome though!)

There are floor-to-ceiling poles that extend and stay in place with a very small footprint, but I think they're generally more expensive. You'd need to get a tripod pole mount to stick onto them, as well. I haven't researched them, but you would want something like these poles and these mounts.

I personally am opting for the light stands that /u/libertytoast posted, they seem to be the best bang for your buck, and then you just need a ball-joint attachment for tilting the sensors. I got a more heavy duty one, here.

Hi, I'm going to be building a new PC to use with the Vive, and wanted to get everyone's feedback on my build choices (I tried posting on /r/buildapc but hadn't gotten responses, and I'm interested specifically in Vive users too).

I'm salvaging the power supply, SSD, and CPU cooler from my existing build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $219.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $19.99
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $5.65
Motherboard | Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $89.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Toshiba Q Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $179.99
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card | $364.99
Case | Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Professional 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $139.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1220.57
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1180.57
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-24 08:34 EST-0500 |

Please let me know if everything looks good!

Also, for the Vive, I'm planning on purchasing light stands to hold the trackers. I'm currently planning on:

- StudioPRO Set of Two 7'6" Photography Light Stands with Carrying Bag for Photo & Video Studio

-
MDW 2 PACK Tripod Mini Ball Head for HTC VIVE Holder,Camera Camcorder

Are those good choices?

So far I've had perfect success with this light stand and this attachment. I extend the legs completely which then take up a relatively small area, and I secure the legs with the two strong rubber bands that came with the attachments. The footprint is a triangle of about 1' (30.48 cm) per side.

In terms of sticky tape, mine fell off 2 hours after installing the lighthouses and pulled a bit of the paint along too :( I just bought 2 long tripods which work perfectly. You could get some off of amazon easily or take your lighthouse to a camera store near you and fit it on some tripods and see which ones you like!
EDIT: These seem good and are pretty cheap too.

Not joining the giveaway, as someone else can probably use it better. But welcome to the HTV Vive Master Race! Its hella fun.

Advice: get light stands like these: Light Stands

and ball mounts like these: Ball Joints

That way you dont have to drill your walls and can move the lighthouses as need be!

> I'm really not sure how early I should queue to ensure I get front row seats. It's either going to be early morning on the 27th or at night on the 26th.

I think, just in case, you should consider bringing (or purchasing in Mexico) a light but tall tripod, just in case you are not allowed into the front seats because of all the conference VIPs that want to see Elon from the front rows.

Just to avoid having a perfectly stable landscape video with Elon obstructed by a VIP head every now and then.

(Also perhaps ask the conference officials whether regular attendees are allowed to bring in a tripod and make recordings.)

A light stand or speaker stand is what you want. Something inexpensive can be had in the ~25 range.

https://www.amazon.com/Cowboystudio-Cushioned-Premium-Portrait-Photography/dp/B003WGNSTE

https://www.amazon.com/PBL-Heavy-Light-Stand-Cushioned/dp/B00BI3WX9O

https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PSTND2-Tripod-Speaker-Stand/dp/B000E0PPG0

I use a 12' air cushioned light stand from Manfrotto for holding antennae, but it was something I already had from my existing collection of photography stuff. Here it is holding a 2m/70cm antenna, but it also holds HF verticals just fine. I don't know what you're currently using as a mount to hold the antenna, but I highly recommend the High Sierra JAWS mount for clamping verticals to stuff.

Regardless of how wide or strong the tripod is, you'll want a way to anchor it to the ground. This can range from sandbags on each leg, to a ground stake driven underneath the tripod and secured with a cord, to step in ground stakes on each leg.

Radial stays outside, there's going to be a lot of RF on the end of it that you don't want in the shack.

I'm really curious what's wrong. I have two lighthouses "mounted" temporarily based on what I happened to have at home the day the Vive arrived. (I should really do something more permanent, though being a rental apartment I'm dithering about using the wall mounts. I know how to spackle and paint, but because of the layout, one lighthouse would have to be mounted to a masonry exterior wall, not sheetrock, and there's no good coverup for that AFAIK....)

Anyway, one lighthouse is quite solidly attached by a medium-small Jobi GorillaPod grabbing the top corner of a bookcase, pointed down as it's supposed to. The other lighthouse is attached to the pole of a a very lightweight aluminum light stand (it came came with a light kit I bought). The latter is the one that can see me best when I do seated stuff like Elite: Dangerous (though I run both lighthouses all the time). I was a little worried about it, because mounting it directly on the pole without even a camera mount (the threading of equipment like that is standard and matches the threadings on the lighthouse bottom and back), it would necessarily be pointing level, not down. And surely that spindly little thing would be a problem once that motor spun up. I only tried it out of desperation, because the other choice was to go ahead and drill into a rental's masonry wall, not even knowing if my tracking area was going to be any good.

And I have no wobbling at all. Unless somebody bumps the stand (so I need to keep my play area's Chaperone bounds well away from it). Look at that photo of the light stand; my lighthouse is sitting at the top of an aluminum telescoping pole seven feet in the air, five feet from the nearest support that could counteract wobble besides integral stiffness (of which there ain't much). I've looked at it really carefully and the motor causes no wobble at all. If it's wobbling, it's because the pole got nudged or a breeze as someone walked by hit it. That lighthouse is a precision piece of equipment. I've sometimes checked whether it's running by touching it, and I can just barely feel any vibration at all.

So I'm going to take a wild guess: the lighthouse you're having problems with is mounted by its back threads, not its bottom threads, and the mount is a bit loose, so gyroscopic force, not wobble, is causing the mount to act as a spring and oscillate the lighthouse along its vertical axis. Is that the case? If so, then you need to stiffen the mount.

If not, I'd try swapping the two lighthouses and re-running room setup. Does that improve things? (Does the same lighthouse in the position of the old "good" one become the "bad" one?) If so, then you have a defective lighthouse and should call HTC for a replacement.

Please let us know what you find out.

Three light kit with led panels at 400 gonna be tough.

Just make sure you are getting reasonable cri, unlikely that low. Another option that would fit in that range would be something like this:

Softbox qty. 3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLVR1JK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VVTEDb9K7EDK0

Bulb quad splitter qty. 3

https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Light-Bulb-Socket-Adapter/dp/B07BFMY8TR

Led bulbs, qty 12, two six packs

https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-Qualified-UL-Listed/dp/B0779C6F3Z

Dimmer qty. 3

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-TBL03-10E-Tabletop-Control-300-Watt/dp/B00A80756O

Cheapy stands, qty. 4 (at least one will break)


https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

Add in some sandbags, extension cords, etc and up and running as cheap or cheaper than bad quality led panel lights. Not an elegant, durable, or great solution but way better than poor natural light and then can save up for proper lights at better budget maybe?

Someone has already mentioned the storage but I recommend one of these stands - It holds everything and looks good, you can still charge the wands too whilst they are resting in the stand.

​

If you are not confident in drilling holds in the wall and mounting the sensors you can always buy some tripods (I got a set of 2 that extend to 7ft) and they also allow for easy configuration of finding the right sensors set ups.

​

I have these combined with these adjustable brackets for full fluid setting up.

These are the light stands I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ball mounts I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have issues with them but they aren't my permanent solution. I bought them because I take my Vive to a lot of different places so it nice as a mobile solution. The ball mounts are great but I'm not use how the stands would do over long periods of time. But for now, they are perfect. They do however come with little draw strings bags that are pretty shitty.

Sure, they are all estimates so I wont be too upset either way. But sure I will post mine when it comes. :)

Looking forward to it, I picked up a light stand that arrived yesterday for like $20, specifically for demo parties to put the sensor on for standing experiences and still keep the sensor a foot above head level.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Aluminum-Adjustable-Light-Stand/dp/B003PEUA30?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

The thing is lightweight and very cool, comes with a sleeve to put it in, standard 1/4-20 mount so it will work with the Sensor. I am 6'2 and this this will go taller than I am.

I will probably grab another when the Touch comes out

These are showing as currently unavailable, but they're what I have and what I recommended to a friend a few days ago.

You'll need to get the ball heads separately (I got two of these), but they work perfectly.

I have the 800s, they are pretty damn comfy with the vive. I love them. Had them for about 2 years now. Bought them back when they were $300, $150 now. The vive does come with earbuds, never tried them. But I already had mine before the vive.

I financed the vive from HTC with the 6mo plan. I will pay it off within 3. I could have paid in full, but didn't want that $900 hole in my wallet.

Also, I bought this tripod it made taking my vive from the bedroom to living room much easier. Because I didn't want to have people in my bedroom when I am showing off the vive.

I have yet to buy any other peripherals like skins or lens protectors which I will. Only had my vive for 2 months. I have family members who sweat excessively, vive covers are a good idea.

I recently purchased Amazon Basics Lighting Stands to mount the lighthouses on for my Vive and it has really made my experience better. Previously I was limited to a 6'x6' space just barely big enough for room scale, and had difficulties keeping track of my boundaries (I punched the back of my TV prompting the light stand purchase). It's so much nicer to be able to change the position of the lighthouses, and I can now play in a larger space and put everything away when I'm done with it.

I cannot wait until the wireless adapter comes out, I have a large 10'x10' space in my apartment just too far from my PC to use now, it's going to be perfect once the wireless comes out.

Anyone who has a difficult space for mounting the lighthouses or wants more freedom with their setup I really recommend the light stands!

Edit:

CowboyStudio Set of Two 7 feet Photography Light Stands with Cases https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_17wvyb1KS6JDT

I believe these are the ones I got, I didn't want to like from Amazon prime now as that may not be available to everyone.

Edit 2: just checked those linked above are the ones I have! I will say the base is somewhat bulky, I'm sure if you wanted to spend a little more you could get some nicer ones. But the general idea of the lighting stands is what I'm plugging rather than that specific product. I love the ones I have and won't be changing them out anytime soon, but if you're concerned about the base width and everything it couldn't hurt to shop around.

I use this tripod, but it does come with two tripods. Maybe you could find a solo elsewhere, but having two allows you to take your Vive to somewhere and set it up for demos. Did that at a friend's house a few months ago and it worked great.

Also make sure you have a mount of some kind to make sure your lighthouse can be positioned accordingly.

Photography light stands (something like this) might be your best bet. I've used these with the lighthouses in the past for less-permanent VR setups, and just ziptied them to the top. Worked great!

Yea for sure, I personally have my lighthouses mounted on tripods so I can bring it to a friends house as well. These are the ones I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Also make sure to buy the bracket mounts as well; they are in the most bought with list.

For PC it all depends on your budget; if you're in the US you could probably build a decent one for ~$800USD. i5-6500, GTX 1060 should be a good starting place to look.

I don't like the starving student deal.

Here's what I'd buy right now if all my gear were suddenly gone and I had to get new lighting

• $16.50: This light stand
  
• $9.50: These batteries for your flash, also helpful to bring you to the $25 free shipping limit
  
• $6.50: This swivel to top off the light stand, free shipping as well
  
• $17: This umbrella is nice, big, and cheap. Sadly charges shipping
  
• $29: The best of the low quality flash triggers. I hear they're very reliable despite being made by an obscure Chinese company. If you want you could save here by going optical. I've linked to Nikon because I use Nikon.
  
• $46: YN460-II full manual flash. Extremely cheap, but it gets the job done and has a decent amount of power. If you need the "starving student" flash, this is it.
  
  Total now is only around $125 and that's including the batteries and some decent flash triggers. Also, obviously all of this gear is reusable when you go better later on. Obviously I didn't link to gaffer tape or gels, but those are cheap and easy to find.
  
  p.s.: I own everything I just linked to you except the RF-602. I plan on buying that next.

There are cheap pairs you can find on amazon for about $35-40. I ordered a pair but was unhappy with the amount of wobble when extended at max height. Now returning those, I ended up spending a bit more for quality, these are the best I found. IMO, it's worth investing a bit more for something sturdy and quality built.

I have a shelf as well which this clamp will work nicely.

Non Drilling solutions as I'm not in a situation where i can drill mounts into the walls:

Personally (UK) i have used these two products, work a charm, a bit of a wide base so not ideal for smaller areas.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01ESJ7754/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then moved house and switched to these, these are great, one fits on the curtain rail, and the other fits on the banister uprights. Clamp goes pretty wide.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KFUSXEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're out of stock now, but I have the Neweer 9-foot two-pack that was about the same price: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS

These work pretty great, and I can definitely get them high enough while keeping stability, but they didn't come with a carrying case! I'm honestly kind of jealous of that.

Awesome post! Thank you! Could you recommend a bag for my tripods? I'd like to carry them with this kit when needed.

Congrats!!!
I got these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're perfect for the job, even on carpet. Footprint hasn't been an issue either. Keep in mind you would also need a ball bracket to angle them down:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L23XN9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hope this helps - enjoy the vive when it arrives!

Honestly, I think you’ll be unhappy going cheap in the beginning. You’ll probably want to upgrade later on, so you might want to save some extra money for better equipment. But if that’s not an option right now, I totally understand!

You really can’t go wrong with the Yongnuo flashes. Check those out to see which one fits your needs and is in your price range. These triggers are pretty decent. You’ll want a nice bracket for your umbrella and flash. These stands are also fairly decent.

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

$27 for a set of 2 photography light stands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4

$10 for a pair of swivel mounts so you can angle the base stations however you like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4

One advantage with these over the other suggestion in this thread is that this setup doesn't need to touch the ceiling to work.
I can confirm these work great for bringing a Vive around to random places, and works well even on soft surfaces like carpet.

My mobile solution was a little more expensive: light stands with carrying bag, ball mounts, and sand weights - a bit more expensive, but very stable. (Sand or rock needed to fill bags, price not included but only a couple of bucks. I put my sand in double 1 gallon bags in each of the 3 sides of each base sand holder.)

For my mobile rig, I already owned an older Alienware 17 R3 and added a graphics amplifier with a Titan X. Works pretty good as a mobile VR rig. Fairly solid VR rig.

I've been very happy with these. If you get these - make sure you also get this.
I take my Vive to friends all the time and this has worked very well.

Speedlite holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS3MINC

I own a couple of these and they are fantastic!

Gels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URG1C2C

No need to go with the expensive Rogue set. I love these by Selens.

Lighting gear bag:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEE7J0U

This has been put through a bit of use and has held up great so far.


Lighting stands

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/

Speedlites

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010XCEABO/

Oh yeah, like I said, all 3 of my sensors are on tripods that can extend almost as high as the ceiling. I've tried moving them all over the place and up and down. Every time I think I finally fixed it my left hand randomly floats off into space on a harder song. This has been going on for 6-months plus, I've pretty much given up on Rift.

What do you think of this solution someone posted above? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Does it still need a clamp?

I really like the floor-to-ceiling FastCap solution because I feel like I'll use them later in life, but assuming they'd stay up a while and they're in my living room I'd like something less obvious than bright red!

If you haven't ordered yet I would recommend these light stands. I had my vive in the dorms downstairs for a couple of hours and they seemed stable enough to support the vibration of the lighthouses. Also, surprisingly, the bag it came with is incredibly good quality. I use these mounts on my tripods to angle down the lighthouses. Cant use the floor to ceiling mounts all places. Where I was yesterday the ceilings are 15' or more.

Depends on how hight the ceiling is at your friends...

If it is normal height, then something like these are the best from what I read...

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System--144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467363597&sr=8-3&keywords=ceiling+support

the lighthouses can then be mounted on the supports with 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Camera-Tripod-Holding-Monitor/dp/B00PICAE4C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467363860&sr=8-3&keywords=camera+mount+clamp


I personally bought 2 light stands similar to these because I have a heigher ceiling that the supports can reach
https://www.amazon.com/StudioPRO-Photography-Stands-Carrying-Studio/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=sr_1_8?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1467363968&sr=1-8&keywords=light+stand

and I mount the lighthouses on them with 2 of these...

https://www.amazon.com/Cullmann-Adapter-Camera-Screw-Capacity/dp/B00PGMCBP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1467364096&sr=1-2&keywords=cullmann+ball+head

It works, but I always fear someone running against the stands while playing , knocking them over. Much better should be the first solution, it also has a smaller footprint using less space than the light stands

Tripods or building support systems (combined with a clamp) seem to be the common solution to prevent drilling.

I've also mounted one of my base stations on top of a bookshelf using duct tape and this also works perfectly, though you'll need a shelf in the neighbourhood of your play area in order to be able to do this.

I wouldn't risk just taping them to a wall though. I've been contemplating to use a combination of industrial two-sided tape and nails (much thinner than a screw and it thus makes only very small holes in the wall) but decided to drill in the end, just to be safe.

Because you are living in a rental, use something like this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511914647&sr=8-3&keywords=lighting+tripod

I mounted mine on those, allowing me to put them away or move them easily. I also use the cable to pair them instead of fiddling with getting perfect line of sight. It will give you a lot less headaches, and a lot more play time.

Another redditor directed me to these, which I bought and have been fantastic. They were very affordable, but appear to be out of stock right now. Maybe there's another listing, or they might restock soon? Hope that helps!

Unanswered question from the previous megathread

Author /u/Solnx - (Permalink)

I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.

A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:

Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting

Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes

AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack

Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?

He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?

I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.

A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:

Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting

Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes

AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack

Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?

He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?

stands and mounts

They've come up a hair but still under 50 bucks. A great value in my opinion especially if you need to move your lighthouses around for any reason or can't or choose not to mount them to your wall. Also apologies on being a bit late to reply. Only just now saw this for some reason.

Yes, it comes with everything you'd need, but if you're going into drywall, I would suggest buying some better anchors like these, the ones they come with aren't the best.

If you plan one making it mobile, maybe look into some tripod mounts, the bases support a standard mount.

I use light stands. They are taller and have a smaller footprint than normal tripods.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1535956111&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=light+stand&psc=1

​

These should work fine.

​

Also get a ball swivel. Like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEAM-Degree-Swivel-Tripod-Camcorder/dp/B01LWE9S9Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535956180&sr=1-3&keywords=ball+swivel

​

Note that you don't have to use the max footprint that a tripod can do. You can make it as small as you feel comfortable with. Mine are at like 1 square foot. They are out of the way in the corner so that's fine for me.

The guide states they need to be mounted above head height to work, but there was a video posted today that seemingly confirms you shouldn't have issues regardless of the height of the units.

I would aim for more lighting stand styles for a better fit to the portable solution you are looking for.

amazon link

Hey, wondering if anyone have experience with using a camera stand or something similar for light house, and have any recommendations? Just have an open area and can't attach to wall.

I asked a while back and someone suggested using a Telescopic pole instead, but its something like 4 metres under my roof so its a bit less convenient.

Edit: Actually just found something searching for Vive Stand on amazon so that was easy https://www.amazon.de/Neewer-Packungen-190-Zentimeter-verstellbar-Produktfotografie/dp/B01LZ1Y076/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526746803&sr=8-2&keywords=htc+vive+stand

For anyone looking for stands, I would recommend these combined withthe ball head mounts that OP linked.

Fair bit cheaper, perfectly adequate quality.

Use light stands. I'm a renter and don't want to drill into the walls. I've used light stands since I got my Vive and they work perfectly. You also need a small camera adapter on the top so you can angle the lighthouses. Here is an Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps you.

When it's all said and done you can be up and running in under an hour. The hardest part is figuring out where to put the lighthouses. I recommend picking up some cheap photography lightstands on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ESJ7754/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Makes things nice and easy to setup and you don't have to worry about drilling holes in your walls.

These work really well for me in hours long sessions. They're cheap but very much sturdy enough: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001WB02Z4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (comes in a set of two so buy one)

I use these to mount the Lighthouses:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VAH3KWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (buy two as they're individually packaged)

You know what's funny, too, is these ended up being better than the bookshelf method as my shelves would vibrate with any activity in the room.

I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)


Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7


White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8


Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6


Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT


I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?

you should be fine id recommend these stands to use with the sensors since your obviously not going to be drilling holes in the walls at the convention.

Secondly Possibly protective skin though its not 100% necessary but does look cool


and last but not least you'll need a good collection of games and demos thry this handy dandy list and see what you like once you have your vive.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18oSyAAbS0RSA_QdG9QBjRkd-25Cj8rpBE9d5nyITKtI/edit#gid=0

The lights you linked are nice, but probably far more than you need for what you want to do. Do you already have a plain white wall with no extraneous light source? (windows, etc.) If so, what's in your picture is pretty simple. Basic 3 point lighting (key/fill/back) will do the trick with 2 extra dimmable lights for the background. Softboxes are nice but diffusion will work just fine. In recent years we've switched to color-shifting dimmable LED panels for pretty much everything. these lights are dirt cheap, have black barndoors, and color shift between warm/cool, tungsten/daylight, 3200k/5600k, whatever your preferred terminology is:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QB3K9T/

We have 4 of them and they're fantastic. You probably don't even need the diffusion really but old habits die hard. If I were you I'd get 3 of them plus 2 for the background and you can reproduce that look exactly. (if you already have something you can use for fill or back you can prob get away with 4.)

I assume you already know 3 point lighting, but if not there are plenty of tutorials online.

EDIT - the lights I linked don't come with lights stands, but if you don't already have them here's some cheap ones: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68

I would say more space is better! But,

Get this


And this

You're welcome :)

So from my use, i like a 35mm lens or 50mm.

The A6000 is a great choice. I didn't see a mention of it, But you'll also need a capture card or a cam link 4k.

You may want a boom arm stand to give you a lot of angle control. Something like this Manfrotto 196B-2 143BKT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OPWSYM

For travel, i use these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4YR0BS/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ESJ7754/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1




But for your own home, just attach em, its only two small holes and you can patch it easy. A little toothpaste will do the trick if you don't feel like going to Lowe's for the paste.

If paint matching is a concern, bring a chip and they can match for you whenever you go to move.

You're spending $800 on this. Tripods are great for traveling with the vive, but at home, don't risk knocking over your expensive sensitive lighthouses just to save $10 on plaster when you move.

So I wanted to build a very light weight portable antenna mast to use during public service events. Amazon covered all the parts with prime shipping on most. Here’s how I did it.

L-Bracket
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018ES4X34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N8khDbH19CTZP

NMO to SO239
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KY64CHW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

9’ mast
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Take the L bracket and hammer it flat.

Drill out the center hole so it will fit over the center post on the mast

Tighten with nut

Attach adapter plus your favourite NMO antenna and some feed line...

Voila. Portable light weight 9’ mast


Also> it’s a 2 pack. You theoretically could use it to setup NVIS HF antennas. If it gets windy, you could guy wire it to some tent stakes. This came out awesome and I can’t wait to set up at our next event!

I have removed your post because it contains URL shorteners which are against this subreddits rules. Please have a read of rule 6:

https://www.reddit.com/r/PSVR/wiki/rules#wiki_6._don.27t_post_spam.

You are welcome to submit your post again, using the full links i.e.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TM600U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_1MxDybV8J64GW

not

http://a.co/gEJcBCD

If you want to keep it tidier looking, you can create named hyperlinks by putting the link name is round brackets, then the URL in square brackets like this:

Air Cushioned Light Stand

How much space do you have? When I first got my Vive I bought a couple of these lighting tripods and these ball-head adapters that somebody in the sub recommended and they worked great. Tripods designed for lights work better for base stations than ones designed for cameras because of the extra height, and they can also be easily folded up and stuck in a closet or wherever when not in use. You'll have to re-calibrate your area every time you set them up, though.

Yep, I do. It's not as expensive as those from Elgato, and if you do a bit of hacking to it, it works like a champ.

I took a tripod light stand (https://amzn.to/2K5ape1), cut the top off and mounted it to the light mount. Then I took the mic stand, picked up a couple of conduit and pipe Hangers (https://www.homedepot.com/p/0-ACC-Conduit-and-Pipe-Hangers-5-Pack-26780/100130865) and screwed them into the wall.

Now I can lower/raise the light and rotate as needed. Then I took a hot shoe (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AKT96GU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and mounted it to the top so I can add my webcam.

Works great.

These are things I bought that work great.
First, the stands;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then the adaptor;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X5QO3B8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally the finishing touch for the headpiece;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F8V66O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's everything you need. But yeah, get them high up, pointing down a bit, and make sure on sturdy flooring so as you're jumping around they don't carry the vibration over and judder.

I use these PBL 10' stands. They've been fantastic so far, and the spring mechanism is quite nice. I use them for real estate photography though, not weddings. I have had them knocked over and dropped many times now and they've held up very well.

1. Found this cheap reflector on Amazon, will it work fine for photographing models outside or should I rethink and buy something more expensive? http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW
   
   
2. I'm also looking at getting this lightstand: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_sim_p_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D4BMN9Z97PRH719JW48 , but looking at pictures of that lightstand, it doesn't seem like it can be rotated or used like this http://www.cowboystudio.com/v/vspfiles/photos/8051-reflector-C%20holding%20arm-2.jpg , is that true? If then, can you point me to another relatively cheap light stand that has that capability?
   
   
3. What are some more things that I should consider buying for photographing models outdoors?
   

I'm using these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4

Obviously not as stable as a wall mount, but they're pretty good.

I use a light stand (kinda like a tripod, but the legs are farther away from the neck, which is longer) something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TM600U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then you can also remove things from the image like what is done in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFqMfpQPda4

I bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=od_aui_detailpages03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with the mini-ball adapters a couple years ago and have loved the mobility of it all. Also, I kinda like to redo my play area alot.. kinda nerdy.

You can order these with prime to France for free: http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B0020J9PJG/
My French isn't good but a quick search found these: http://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B00MXX3TZA
Haven't checked if you need adapters, just to show, that there are cheap alternative in Europe as well :)

There's also tripods you could use. Just make sure to find some with a small footprint so they don't eat into your space if you plan to have them in the corners of it. These are pretty good for that.

From the pictures he clipped them to the tops of some table stacks. Personally, I bought some light stands that do the trick pretty well.

What your looking for is something to cast soft-light on your workspace.

Get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-60cmx60cm-Softbox-Diffuser-Fluorescent/dp/B00LTNKKVG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511945500&sr=1-4&keywords=soft+light+lamp

Plug in one of these bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/Bonlux-Daylight-Balanced-Spectrum-Photography/dp/B01EFK7XE6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8X7REXZN8369RAC069WP

And mount it on one of these stands:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5ZF30F2MDZM6ZJQBSG0Z

Have it cast light onto your workspace. You can probably find a smaller box and stand. You might even consider getting two of them for better lighting and eliminating shadows from your arm. The lighting will also help you as an artist becuase it casts white-light instead of a warm yellow, which can affect how you see colors at night.

One trick is to NOT extend each pole fully, leave a lot of overlap and evenly distribute the unused length as overlap across the joints.

That's what I did with a cheap tripod set to reach 6.5ft and it worked perfectly (indoors). They are $37 and as a bonus the included case fits both tripods plus all Vive components wrapped in thin towels for padding, a keyboard, mouse, and the light mounting clips I used to attach the base stations to the poles.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OmwoxbKF2MFVB

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_44?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1466330295&sr=1-44&keywords=light+stand

https://www.amazon.com/PBL-Stands-Studio-Photographic-Lighting/dp/B007F0GBD8/ref=sr_1_22?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1466330287&sr=1-22&keywords=light+stand

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1466330083&sr=1-2&keywords=light+stand

There are a few, hope that helps. I'd suggest getting a little ball joint for the top

I like both but for different reason. If I am going for a quick flight or during my lunch break. Then I take goggle diversity. If am doing a race day or a longer day or flying I take the ground station. I do like that my ground station is taller. I got a "photography light stand" off Amazon that extends up much higher than a standard tripod. https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4?th=1

Camera tripods seem to top out at 6 feet. HTC/Valve want you to mount them above you, angled down, for the largest tracking volume; as such, buying a light stand and an adapter might be cheaper and more effective. Here's a two-pack of cheap ones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g421_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1VNP07M1Z4M3DWTKTV00&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop

You'll probably need an adapter to actually mount the Lighthouses on them, though. I'm still looking for a solution that's guaranteed to work.

Well...hopefully you can place them on something high as the recommendations are what... 6ft?
To that I use StudioPRO Set of Two 7'6" Photography Light Stands with Carrying Bag for Photo & Video Studio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNZJLG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n45fybQ4J0NYQ

And

EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012FTXOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l55fybBWW0C6G

Which works extremely well as I've moved my stations multiple times. The providers of the stand send them in a carry bag (further protected in boxes within). Easy to setup. Minimal space impact

You could set your self up pretty good with $500. I have a couple suggestions, but the first would be to get yourself a cheap prime lens first. Either a 50mm 1.8 or a 24mm pancake. Both are around $100 and would still leave quite a bit in your budget. So, saying you go ahead and do that:

• You could get a couple of Yongnuo 560 IV
  You could choose to fire then optically with your Canon speed lite or get one of these
  
• Grab a few of these to hold your flashes
  
• And a few of theseto stand them up
  
• In terms of modifiers you have a few options. You could go with cheap umbrellas which are fine. Or you could get some small soft boxes. I say just grab a huge modifier. As big as you can get. It's gonna really depends on how much space you have. check this out
  
  That's a decent, portable, and effective setup with two lenses for right about $500.
  
  Since your using someone else's studio lugging equipment is gonna be a pain. That's why I think speed lights is the way to go. But if you don't mind, look into a monolight kit. For your portraits I really do think you'll like what you get from a fast prime lens.

For this video we are using a single articulated arm attatched to a table using this clamp. it works, but you can see the shaking of the table pretty easily.

I'm still using the super cheap suggestion. Working fine since April 5th when I got the vive. Two homes, one workplace, one convention center (next to walls because bass from concerts shaking the floor), one outdoors area under a gazeebo (against a support beam because wind).


$22 for 2 tripods:

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4

$5 each for a mount you can swivel (buy two):

http://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Tripod-Camera-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B012FTXOW4

hoping someone on this subreddit can help. i purchased this tripod on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/

however, i didn't realize that the top part of it was threaded at the very top. i'm trying to find something to cover that is the same width as the part connecting to it. i know it's 1/4" thread and unfortunately i can't saw it off since i don't have one.. any ideas?

I've only used these a few times showing off the system on the road but they have performed great
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with something similar to u/MrRizzMan, but went with 9 foot tripods to take advantage of any room with high ceilings. So far they haven't let me down. No carrying case though and the mounts are pretty much the same as well.

I just purchased 5 triggers, 2 stands, 2 umbrella mounts, and 2 Brollyboxes they look like the softlighter mentioned below. I spent about 145 total. I played with it earlier today these are straight out of the camera, if that isn't obvious hahaha.

Hey this is all "Free super saver shipping" because shipping sucks.

• Triggers X2
  
  
• Optical trigger just for shits n giggles
  
  
• Strobe mounts
  
  
• Brolly Boxes
  
  
• Light Stands

Another suggestion these here are bretty nice and silent. (just make sure to let them stand on something soft like a towel.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01LZ1Y076/

I initially thought of going with that option, however once I considered moving my setup out to the living room, which has vaulted ceilings, I opted to try these photography tripods instead.

Now I do not have to worry about slamming into my ceiling, and if I want to, I can set up in an area that does not have lower ceilings like a convention center or meeting room.

I also got a pair of swivel camera mounts like so which allows me full mobility.

| Total | Quantity | Price | Item |
| -: | -: | -: | :- |
| $130 | 1 | $130 | Green Screen Kit |
| $18 | 3 | $6 | CowboyStudio AC Socket and Umbrella Holder |
| $40 | 2 | $20 | CowboyStudio Umbrella with Removable Cover |
| $25 | 1 | $25 | CowboyStudio Light Stand Pair |
| $15 | 1 | $15 | CowboyStudio Mini Light Stand |
| $60 | 3 | $20 | Alzo 85 Watt CFL (5500K, 4250 Lumens) |
| $288 | | | Grand Total |

Above is a 3 point lighting with green screen solution that's within your $300 budget.

I use a similar setup for most of my daughter's youtube videos that we shoot at home.

Shooting light through an umbrella will make it softer than reflecting it.

85 Watt 5500K (daylight) CFL Bulbs are energy efficient and don't get terribly hot.

It only takes a few minutes to move your computer and set up the Vive in a new room. Use your living room when you want to play a roomscale game or have friends over, and the smaller room for standing or seated games. Amazon has some cheap tripods that make setting up the lighthouses a snap.
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497667542&sr=8-2&keywords=Vive+stand

Very nice! These are the stands I got. The picture shows a very wide footprint but if you extend that bottom all the way out it actually creates a very narrow footprint (12" diameter)

Edit: They actually sell a "VR Edition" of these stands if you also want the tiny mounts.

I have this pretty much permanently up for one of the lighthouses in my house and I've never noticed any vibration.

I get more vibration when I use the cheap lightstands on Amazon, but even then it's rare (only when someone really tries to jump around or accidentally bumps it). Despite the vibration I like the lightstands as an option too though because there's not always a place you can clamp these buggers.

Great write up by the way. Appreciate the work that went into this.

I don't know anything about photography equipment - so I am not sure if the following two would fit. But at the moment I have the following list:

• Tripods: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005SNUNE2/ref=s9_hps_bw_g421_i5
  
• Head Mount: http://www.amazon.de/dp/B00QK9BNKG/ref=pd_cp_421_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZQ06K678KC4BAKGEXMJ
  
  If anyone has a better suggestion, please let me know

I bought THESE (they come as a pair), along with 2 of THESE (sold invidually) and they work great, super-sturdy.

I bought them back when the Vive first came out so there might be cheaper solutions out there now though.

These look like really well reviewed 9 footers? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WGNPKQ?colid=2IFS8EMZ1SA4S&coliid=I3VHBAIEK0B132&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

Or if you want a heavy duty 10 footer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D8KV0K?colid=2IFS8EMZ1SA4S&coliid=I1UW50JCZVP0R2&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl


What do you think? Are 9 footers enough? They are quite a bit cheaper than the 10' ones.

These look pretty good:

http://www.amazon.ca/Neewer%C2%AE-Studio-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_17?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1456928793&sr=1-17&keywords=heavy+duty+light+stand

You'd probably need to add ball heads so you could tilt the lighthouses down.

I got the "Phot-R Professional Photography 2x 3m Adjustable 3-Section Photo Studio Heavy Duty Aluminium Light Stand" (1) and the "Phot-R Type G Professional Universal Swivel Light Stand Bracket and Umbrella Holder for Canon and Nikon" (2) to mount the Lighthouse bases. I just pasted the entire names here (with links below) because at some time before they were not available and then I couldn't see the entire name which made it harder for people to search for it.

The type of "head" for the stand is not important. I got a light stand bracket / umbrella holder because they can be angled in different degrees. So I have mine at about 40 degree angle down. You can put the Lighthouses right on the light stands but then you won't be able to angle them down. And for me those brackets were the cheapest I could find. If you get something different just make sure they have a mount for a normal camera sized screw and not a flash shoe mount that you clamp in place (look at the different options of that product to see what I mean).

As I wrote they are a bit wobbly but I haven't had any problems with the Vive with them. And the wobbliness is at mostly because I live in an old house with wooden floors.

(These links are for Amazon UK, if you don't live in EU try searching for them on your local Amazon or somewhere else.)
[1] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MXX3TZA/ref=pe_385721_130454771_TE_3p_dp_1
[2] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UTEXV3U/ref=pe_385721_130454771_TE_3p_dp_2

I purchased [this](Neewer 2-Pack 8.5 feet/2.6 meters Adjustable Light Stands with 2-Piece 1/4-inch Screw Tripod Mini Ball Head Hot Shoe Adapters and Carrying Case for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait and Product Photography https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MT1N8JD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FGsgAbX7CJ8H1)bundle, unfortunately it isn't currently available but they do work great! I would go with these 9 foot poles and get the mounts which they sell for $20 for the pair.

Specifically, look into light stand tripods (instead of regular camera tripods) because they will be cheaper and lighter since they don't need to hold the weight of a heavy camera, but are more than fine for the base stations. This one is 6 feet, but they also have 8-9 feet versions available. If you search r/Vive/ for Neewer, I'm sure you'll find a few of us who went this route. You'll just want to buy a couple of 1/4" ball mount to attach to the ends of these light stands. EDIT: Conveniently at the 'frequently bought together' section.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464029196

These and this work quite well, if you want something easier to move around.

A simple pic stand and flash bracket with a reversible umbrella and a YN660 transmitter would be the best way to get off camera versatile flash for cheap.

In the future, every Monday, Weds, and Friday we have an official questions thread reserved for these types of questions.

For something moveable:
http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System--144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12

They are sturdy and have a very low profile compared to a tripod. You can then use duct clamps to attach the lighthouse mount or buy a camera mount that wraps on poles

if that's too much, just some cheap high light tripod.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/
but they'll take like a foot of your play area each

if it's permanent, just use the mounts that are (probably) included - still not confirmed but they were with Pre and I don't see why they wouldn't be with consumer version.

These have a slightly larger footprint than I'd like, but they work well. http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Professional-Heavy-Lighting/dp/B003WGNPKQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01

Lots of height for their packed size. Careful, they are spring loaded, so don't poke your eye out. Also bought two of these to put on them: http://www.amazon.com/Eggsnow-Tripod-Bracket-Holder-Ballhead/dp/B00L23XN9O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

I would have got those but I'm in the UK and didn't see em on amazon.

These seem like they are basically the same though right?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520884053&sr=8-4&keywords=studio+light+stand

I think the lighthouses might vibrate too much for a suction cup. Also, I can think of other things that vibrate and have a suction cup, maybe you don't want your lighthouses to resemble those in any way.

edit: Also, my experience with suction cups on car gadgets is they always vibrate loose eventually.

I use these, with some cheap $8 ball mounts. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminum-Tripod-Stands-Softboxes-6-23/dp/B003I6ENXS/

They've been fine so far, but I haven't moved them around or set them up multiple times, so I don't know if they'd hold up to travel. Probably not, at that price. I'm positive the cheap ball mounts would never handle being set up and adjusted too many times.

Lightstands as I can't wall mount. Lightstands are better than tripods as the have telescopic necks, not legs so they take up less floor space, and as a photographer, I use these all the time, so I know they are stable and don't wobble (I put £1000s worth of lighting equipment on mine)

[People are now selling VR specific ones online with a ballhead 1/4" mount on the top.](Neewer 2 Packs 75 inches/190 centimeters Adjustable Light Stands with 2 Pieces 1/4-inch Screw Tripod Mini Ball Head Hot Shoe Adapters for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait and Product Photography https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LZ1Y076/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i0NMybFHQ5A3H)

I got this light stand for my Theta V. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074VNRN5X/ref=twister_B079Y4MW5F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It doesn't get in the shot much at all and extends to around 7 feet and has worked great for me.

I bought these tripods for $22 USD ($31 CAD). They work perfectly. I had bought some adapters so that I could tilt the lighthouses, but they were shipped separately and came a bit later. It turned out that the lighthouses don't need to be tilted, at least not at 6 and a half feet high. They were able to track the floor when screwed straight on top of the tripods without any problem.

If you're on a budget they're a great option. The disadvantage is the floor estate. I'd say they use up about 2 feet of floor space under each tripod.

I had a friend who would set up his Vive every time he played and would put the lighthouses on a table. Didn't seem to have issues.

I have mine on telescoping light stands that can be broken down easily. They work perfect. I will say that on a 970, FO4 can be a bit rough. I personally won't play it, but many people here swear that it's fine for them.

Cool, thanks everyone for the tips!

Ordered these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will post back the results once I get them set up (for any random googlers who find their way here.)

Your brother should buy 2 sets of these. Up to 8' high and works great. Only about $50 total.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

THEY ABSOLUTELY NEED TO BE ANGLED. I would suggest a cheap pair of tripods. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N6Y08Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These work great.

All instruction comes with the Vive. As a matter of fact, the leaflet iirc explains very little, but at some point you will be directed to a bunch of official online/youtube video where it tells you how to set it up step by step. you can view them right now if you want: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiw1w2kYUHWQOkWlZbMqcaQ/videos

get a pair of either extendable support rods (like these https://www.screwfix.com/p/extension-support-rod/14003 ) or lightstands (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Photography-Adjustable-3-Section-Aluminium/dp/B00MOM61AA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_lp_img_2/262-6445320-2344631?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8YY0DAAVRVGV6H1NJQT1) and a pair of clamps (https://www.amazon.com/Grifiti-Threaded-Microphone-Diameter-Motorcycles/dp/B00E5M39AW/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3C5ZK18G314S5HMF1DN7). you will need them if you aren't willing to drill holes on the wall.

Mounting pictures and small things like this is considered normal use; you typically would have to patch holes before leaving, which is easy, and pay some pro-rated amount towards painting that room if it had been repainted recently (2-3 years in California).

Tripods work too - on concrete. Wood floors make the sensors wobble when anyone is moving around. (Edit: a rod as suggested by /u/Muzanshin works better with wood)
I got these; though the price has gone up a bit they're still great at $36 for a pair:

Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4YR0BS

And the ball heads you'll need to tilt the cameras down enough for $11:

MDW 2 Pcs Tripod Mini Ball Head for HTC VIVE Base Station,lighthouses,Camera Camcorder,Holder for HTC VIVE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M07M9D4


This set is a bit shorter but includes 2 stands and 2 ball heads for $40 total:

Neewer 2 Packs 75 inches/190 centimeters Adjustable Light Stands with 2 Pieces 1/4-inch Screw Tripod Mini Ball Head Hot Shoe Adapters for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait and Product Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ1Y076

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L4YR0BS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these. Nice and portable and surprisingly resilient for the price!

so I'm looking at two ways to hold the sensors.
Cheap wallmounts from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Universal-Satellite-Speaker-Bracket/dp/B005BV0FHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456169210&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+wall+ceiling+mount


OR a tripod station for portability and movement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00L4YR0BS&pd_rd_r=XH1J8KZY8HK8R9YS19N1&pd_rd_w=UF99n&pd_rd_wg=2i8si&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=KTVZGBE66D5GV2ACPV42&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&pf_rd_i=desktop

I'm probably going to go for the tripod, thanks for the information!

I did some research and I found these ball mounts to be the best quality for the price.

I also bought a pair of these Aluminum Adjustable Light Stands as I will most likely be moving my lighthouses around.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I

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https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY

https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS

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---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I'd use light-weight light stands rather than tripods. /u/rukeith They have a smaller tri-leg base and most of their height is in a vertical extension. They're easier to manipulate than hard-mounting the sensors in the walls, but it all depends on personal situation.

Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1499018087&sr=1-3&keywords=light+stand

Light stands are a great option, especially for portability. I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480305148&sr=8-1&keywords=light+stands+vive

That's really all you need though...taller than you. Or rather, taller than anybody's who going to be playing on your system.

So if you're 5 foot nothing, a 6 foot tripod would be fine. A 9 foot tripod should cover just about anybody. I got ones like these.

I've been using this clamp - http://amzn.to/1S7oTqS - in addition to this arm - http://amzn.to/1S7oWD2 - to do a lot of my videos. It's very flexible and strong.

I also once built a rig using PVC that I attached to the ceiling that I could swing out of the way when I wasn't using it. It wasn't as solid as the clamp and arm, though.