(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best plug-in switches

Basically, you need a tank, a regulator some airline, a bubble checker would be good to have and a diffuser. Also, you'd like a timer of some sort as you really do not need to have co2 running 24/7 nor would you probably want to.

My setup:

• 24oz Paintball co2 tank: $30 at paintball shop filled with co2.
  $23 dollars on Amazon - though I would have still needed to get it filled at paintball shop for $5 which brings it $28. $2 more - i think it's better at that to support the local shop and plus I didn't want to wait for the tank to come to my house as that would have arrived later than anything else.
  
  
• Adapater to utilize paintball co2 tank - $9 on Amazon
  
  
• Bubble Counter - $10 on Amazon I know the regulator has a bubble counter, however with the paintball tank it would not work as it'll be horizontal instead of vertical - you can choose cheaper ones. I just liked this $10 one. Btw a bubble counter will show you how much co2 you're adding or at least how fast as not every bubble counter counts it at the same pace but a good gauge to see how much you are adding - ie. you really cannot ask how many bubbles per second you should be running. the 1-2 bps that I run might be different on your bubble counter)
  
  
• CO2 Regulator - $60 on Amazon
  
  Price for this setup: $109
  
  If you need a timer, there's plenty of options. I already had one, but you can find them on Amazon.
  
  
• I was able to get this one as an add-on for $3.54 for something else though now it's $14.50 :/ and ironically I switched to a smart switch idea for my build anyways.
  
  
• Got this smart switch to control my autodoser and some other things -if it works it's a good $20 spent.
  
  Though in the end, you would need a timer and if you already have one then you won't have to buy one. Or if you have extra smart switches either that you can set a schedule on.
  
  Other tanks:
  
  Instead of the paintball tank you can get a regular co2 tank:
  
  
• 5lb from Amazon - $62 + ~$20 to fill at an air place It would have brought my setup to $141 if I went that route. It might be $50 more than the paintball tank, but it only increases price by $40 because you don't need the adapter nor the bubble counter. Pros: It could be cheaper. 24oz paintball is $5 to fill(in most places) a 5lb which is ~80oz can be anywhere from $10-$20. If it's on the lower end of that range where you live it's cheaper. Other pro is that less often you need to fill it. Negative: Larger and harder to hide. It won't fit in my setup or how I have my tank setup.
  
  Of course, that's just buying the stuff to build the system.
  
  You can watch videos about it on Youtube like Aquarium Co-Op's Co2 guide but I can still try to break it down.
  
  Get tank and properly secure it to the regulator.(I'd recommend watching a video on that as the regulator does need to be open for this part apparently). If using the paintball tank, secure the adapter to regulator first. DO NOT secure it on the paintball tank first. If you do it with the way the adapter is built, I'm guessing you'd be losing a bit of co2. Though, I haven't tried it, I'm logically thinking that it ain't good. If you use a 5lb tank or larger, there's something about some disc or gasket or something that is supposed to help keep it from leaking. I'm going to refer you to youtube on that one. I didn't use any on my paintball setup except for the gasket already on the tank. I did use some plumbers tape on the adapter to regulator though. I'm just hoping I don't have a leak and I'd be pretty confident to assume that I don't as I still have CO2 in my tank after a couple of weeks.
  
  All you need to do now is to attach the airline hose(some people will say to use co2-proof hose to prevent co2 loss, but I decided to skip that and you can decide what you wish to do as I might be right or wrong on that part along with other people who claim airline tube is sufficient) to the regulator. So after you attach the hose to the regulator, attach the bubble counter somewhere along the line before the aquarium(I think I did that right). Of course, if you use the 5lb or larger tank, you should be able to use the bubble counter that came with the regulator as it would stand vertical. The line eventually gets connected to a co2 diffuser which will break up the co2 into smaller bubbles to easily be dissolved better into your water. Of course, there are other ways to get the co2 into your tank, but this is the way I do it. Youtube can show you other ways, or other redditors for that matter. One thing to note is that you should also have a check valve to prevent water from going from the aquarium to your system. It should most likely be closer to the water than the co2 system. The bubble counter I use, also has a check valve for whatever that one is worth. Some diffusers come with bubble counters and check valves as well. Speaking of diffusers, i forgot to add that to my price. but that can run anywhere from $5 on up. Also the diffuser might have to be cleaned due to algae once and awhile.
  
  The system should be ran using a timer to coincide with your light cycle and should run basically when the lights are on. I turn my co2 on 1 hour before the lights turn on and turn it off 2 hours before the light turn off. Hypothetically, you can run it 24/7 however it's better not to as the risks are a bit too much for putting something in your tank that is not being used as the plants typically don't use co2 with the lights out and you can risk running into a situation where you deplete the oxygen in your fish.
  
  Overall, I think it's worth it at least for me. But also be cautious that adding too much co2 might be detrimental to your fish. If you are running it and your fish are all gasping for air, you definitely are putting too much in but you should never get it that far which some way to check it would be a good purchase for this. I just use the method of figuring out the ppm of CO2 based on pH and KH. I'm not sure how accurate it might be but it has been stable and my fish are doing fine as well as my plants and the algae is at bay. There's also what's called a CO2 drop checker that you can purchase to measure this.
  
  If you really want to get into this, I'd recommend researching it further yourself and maybe wait on some other more "experienced" redditors to answer as I might and could be wrong on some things. I know I've read some people don't think the ph/kh calculation method is good and to buy a drop checker, but I'm pretty confident in using it for my tank but I might be undosing the co2 for all I know. Though on the flipside, I could be overdosing, though my fish are not showing any signs of symptoms of said overdosing. But I could be wrong on that. If I am, please let me know. :) Definitely do your own research, like you should on anything. :) At least, get a good footing and confirmation from other sources.

Go buy a 4x4 tent, ideally gorilla but can get cheaper.

https://growershouse.com/gorilla-grow-tent-4-x-4?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp6055&sc_intid=6055&gsacid=952890155&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw4jvBRCJARIsAHYewPMdnaA3pI_kaqr7hDDtRfQzZ5-nIJ_myYwy_RzlSfPlTYAKJuHyn5MaAotOEALw_wcB#!

Order the light


https://growershouse.com/horticulture-lighting-group-hlg-600w-qb288-v2-r-spec-led-kit?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp15744&sc_intid=15744&gsacid=952890155&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw4jvBRCJARIsAHYewPMp8yJqTkQMEmC5Db2_3fMT73eIoyEVEXZMPbEIJIB_wpvPAEW537saAsyFEALw_wcB

Inline fan


AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6, Quiet 6" Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LMT4Db95YN9QZ

Carbon filter


VIVOSUN 6 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, Pre-Filter Included, Reversible Flange 6"x 18" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01731MLFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HNT4Db23PB3M8

Flex duct

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting for HVAC Ventilation w/Two 6 Inch Stainless Steel Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UCCMW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPT4DbNQFABKE

Fan


SPT Wall Mount 16" Fan with Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y8CN45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oQT4DbV2ANXJG

Temp/hygrometer

AcuRite 00613 Indoor Thermometer & Hygrometer with Humidity Gauge, 3" H x 2.5" W x 1.3" D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013BKDO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xRT4Db8N3X0K6

Rope hanger

iPower GLROPEX2 2-Pair 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Clip Hanger (150lbs Weight Capacity) Reinforced Metal, 2 Pack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iST4DbF0EQJAK

Light timer

BN-LINK 7 Day Outdoor Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer BND/U78, 125VAC, 60Hz, Dual Outlet, Weatherproof, Heavy Duty, Accurate For Lamps Ponds Christmas Lights 1875W 1/2HP ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9RK4VV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wWT4Db5Q74NPA

PH meter

Digital PH Meter, PH Meter 0.01 PH High Accuracy Water Quality Tester with 0-14 PH Measurement Range for Household Drinking, Pool and Aquarium Water PH Tester Design with ATC (2020-Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08197LX6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXT4DbZ8TF1W

Tower of Power

Hydrofarm TMTOP6 Tower of Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WAL58I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f1T4Db88GD2GE

Loupe

VIVOSUN 30X 60X Illuminated Jewelers Loupe Foldable Magnifier with LED Light for Jewelry Gems Watches Coins Stamps Antiques Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VK1LVKX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62T4DbR2KDDY4

Measuring cups.

Garden Smart Measuring Glass (1, 1 ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073C6S1LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o5T4DbQFTS4FY


Fox Run Brands 4892COM 4-Ounce Mini Measuring Glass, Regular, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4CQWI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_95T4DbTWPWNMP


Get some short heavy gauge cords

Still haven’t said what medium, so I can’t recommend anything there for nutes or pots. Since your new, I’d consider soil and airpots.

You’ve got lots to learn, buy the grow encyclopedia.

The Cannabis Encyclopedia: The Definitive Guide to Cultivation & Consumption of Medical Marijuana https://www.amazon.com/dp/1878823345/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9RIDjvgDjnPoc

I’m sure I forgot something, it’s off the top of my head, you’ll always be running and picking up a trinket or two. That said, this will get you far down the path.

Need to decide medium and I can help point you towards genetics. Probably clones to start off.

I just completed my first run with rockwool and drippers and man have I learned alot along the way. There's no easy answer to those questions because of things like plant size and what stage of growth they're in. Most commercial grows I've seen are hand watering during veg and switching to drippers for flower. Here's a couple links to vids that I learned alot from

https://youtu.be/EkNAKXMDFsg

https://youtu.be/L7ufD00dFS8

I would recommend a timer you can adjust to the seconds. Like this one
https://www.amazon.com/NEARPOW-Multifunctional-Programmable-Countdown-Electrical/dp/B07QJ3K43N

Dialing in the drip times wasn't easy, and I was still making adjustments as the plant grew larger. I started out with one irrigation cycle per hour during lights on in the beginning, but then changed to 12 per day, and now in flower I switched to 9 per day, but I also recently learned that in bell peppers yields were increased with up to 30 cycles a day, so I'll be making more changes next run.

One other thing. I've been using floraflex subsurface drippers, which I thought were a great idea to supress algae growth on the top of the rockwool, and they do, but the plant roots grow right into the drippers and clog them, so you have to replace them every month or so, unless you can find a good way to clean them out.

I bought a house with in-wall controls that everyone said to rip out. I am extremely glad I ignored them.

If the phone rings or something comes up, I don't want to fire up the Sonos app and start navigating around to control the volume. Also, it requires you buy a sonos controller for each room if you want to control them individually.

Ultimately, I got a big amp and wired up all of downstairs on one bus and a couple extra sonos devices for specific rooms/areas and it works great.

Yes, there is a volume control on the amp, the sonos, AND the room. But it works great and I'm extremely happy to have volume controls in-wall and not just on my phone.

Also, I replaced all the knobs with these; they look nicer and you can visually tell from across the room what the setting is: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-SGVST-W-Strauss-Transformer-Control/dp/B002MA57TU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Anything ISP supplied is typically terrible. I would advise you invest in your own modem. It pays for itself after a time, as you'll no longer be paying rental cost on that piece of equipment. Unless of course you also have cable in the house, and that modem is a dual internet modem / cable tv receiver. Either way, having your own modem for internet is recommended. Above, I linked to the pretty much universally recommended modem for cable. I have one myself for a 75/10 connection, and consistently get 90/15 with it.

It sounds like in the evenings everyone is contending for internet, and this is causing issues. Like I said, look at enacting rate limiting on particularly problematic clients. And certainly look at QOS. Typically, you can set QOS in a few main ways: by device, by traffic type, and by application type. If you want, you can just do a blanket "highest" priority QOS rule for your gaming computer (you'll need to get its MAC address, most likely; type "ipconfig /all" into a command line window and look for the Physical Address line of the ethernet adapter your computer uses). This will tell your router to get any packets to/from your computer through the network quicker than any other packet (so long as that "other" packet isn't also associated with a highest priority rule; if it is, in that case they are considered equal and it's first come first served). Note that the QOS rules you set only apply to your own network. Once it goes out of your house and into the ISP controlled network (IE - the internet), that QOS has zero bearing on its priority as a packet.

Anyway, I've rambled enough. You seem like you're tech savvy enough to at least recognize what the problems might be initially, so I trust you'll be able to work your way through doing the things I've suggested. I just took at look at the router you said you had, and here's the manual in PDF form:

http://downloads.linksys.com/downloads/userguide/E2000_UG_USA_V10_NC-WEB.pdf

Looks like you'll need to install some software to manage the router:

http://www.linksys.com/ca/support-article?articleNum=148341

Page 31 of the manual goes into QoS rule setting, and it looks like there's plenty of options there. The router itself looks pretty decent, I don't think you need to upgrade it. Just the modem should need to be an upgrade candidate.

Also, it might be worth hooking your router into one of those timers you get for lights, where you specify what times of the day/night you want it on/off. Set it to on for all the time, except the smallest unit of time at around 4am (or whenever would be the least disruptive time to have it turn off). This power cycles the router and flushes the memory banks, removing any memory leaks that might be slowing it down over time. They are pretty cheap, here's what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-TN811K-2PK-Indoor-Timers-2-Pack/dp/B00QFL7OMK

I also have one for my modem, too.

To make the lighting situation easy to understand, because I know how difficult it is: the most important thing is a reptisun 10.0 lamp that extends at least 2/3rd the length of the cage. This gets your beardie the vitamins they need.

Once you have that in place, you COULD heat the tank however you want. An ugly shop light with a 60w bulb would be fine...IF you can get the temps right. The problem is that you probably won't be able to get the temps right with that small of a lamp. Most people find that they need a lamp housing and at least a 100w basking lamp. And don't forget than you need to maintain the tank temps 24/7 including when the basking lamp turns off at night. To combat this, they make ceramic heaters that screw into a lamp housing that give off no light so your beardie can sleep.

Personally I have this housing with a 150w basking lamp on one side and this heater on the other side. I have both of them plugged into this timer. The heater is plugged into the nighttime outlet and the basking lamp is plugged into the daytime outlet.

So in summary, I know it sounds very sophisticated, but honestly it's as simple as getting them their vitamins with the reptisun lamp and then after that heating the tank however you choose. Shop lamps and a good memory are a good way to do it on the cheap, but once you can afford the timers and lamp housings (I'm not insinuating you can't afford it, just saying) your life will get a lot easier and your beardie will be less stressed due to the stable light situation.

Insteon keypadlinc 6 button dimmer and in-line dimmer (links below)

They can be set to communicate with each other without needing a hub.
The keypad is used like this. The main on and off buttons would turn on the vanity lights. Holding the off button dims the light. When it reaches the brightness you desire, you let go.
The other 4 buttons can be programmed to control scenes for the vanity and tub lights.
1 scene would obviously be toggling the just new fixture over the tub.
The other 3 could be a full brightness scene, medium brightness and sexy time.....
Or add another in line relay or on/off micro module to your fart fan and one of the buttons could control that.

Without a hub you won't have any "smart" control ie voice, phone or when you aren't home. They also won't be included in homekit, home assistant or any other automation software you might use.

But if you get a hub then all that can be yours on top of just having a really slick keypad in your bathroom.

Insteon 6-Button Dimmer Keypad, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UDHWP7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_riXFDbKK8MEXA

Insteon 2475DA1 In-LineLinc Dual-Band Remote Control In-Line Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CPHW5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ikXFDbS7JY078

My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:

• SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch
  
• GE ZigBee Smart Lighting Dimmer, Plug-In, 2-Outlet, Led & CFL Bulb compatible
  
  In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
  
  Beware, there's a caveat:
  
  Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.

I’m not OP but I have the same light. My succulents are steadily getting bigger under this guy! I also have this timer from Amazon that’s super easy to work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H81JLHZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PFa3CbXMBVXF0 - as well as a surge protector that has a timer function!

I don’t know much about electrical code, but this is what we’re currently using - not code? And if not, do you know why? They are super popular on Amazon.


Outdoor Dimmer, Wireless RF Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DZDVQZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ya, understandable I think the solenoid was the most expensive single part of my system. But it wasn't horribly expensive. I bought this one for 35$.-->http://www.diyco2regulator.com/clippard-mouse-solenoid-with-manifold

Also bought most of my fittings from them as well. Great site, awesome customer service and reasonable pricing. And I think they ship to Canada.

The timer though I picked up at a local Petsmart or Petco(I forget which), its a Coralife power strip.

How much money did you just lose in fish, not to mention the heart break... The cost of the solenoid is probably less then replacing fish.

If shipping is the main issue, check out local (to you) medical or welding gas supply places. They might have or should be able to get the right size/type solenoid for around the same cost.

I've had the el cheapo Harbor Freight UC Model 3305 for a while, and despite the smallish capacity and 3-minute timer, it works pretty darn good for under $30 after an easily acquired HF coupon.

Overcoming the 3-minute timer was easy enough...MacGyver'd the on button with a rubber band and eraser. As long as the on button stays actuated, it keeps running. I've heard of someone else doing it with a binder clip; that's probably a little more elegant than my rig job.

Then I plugged it into a 15-minute interval outlet timer like this that I already had. 15 minutes on, 30 off, rinse and repeat for a few hours. I haven't put a thermometer in the bath to see what temp it gets up to, but it's pretty toasty after a few cycles. That's why I'm using a timer to cycle it...didn't want it to overheat my juices or the UC.

Glad I could help! I'm looking forward to your pictures. Consider getting a pine canopy and a retrofit kit, along with a 2-stage light timer (for when you eventually decide to put in moonlight LEDs, like I just did :) ). The individual bulb kits are nice, because you can take one out of the fixture if you require low light intensity.

This is basically what I use...

The basics:

• Tote for your res
  
  
• Digital timer
  
  
• Pump
  
  
• Manifold (has an assortment of flow rate inserts so you can set it up how you want)
  
  
• fitting to attach hose from pump to manifold
  
  
• pump-to-manifold tubing
  
  
• Drip tubing
  
  Extras, that make things nice and easy:
  
  
• FloraFlex cap for even distribution through the medium
  
  
• Floraflex clips to hold the drip lines in place
  
  
  If you feed drain-to-waste, you'll want to come up with some way to collect runoff. Maybe something like THIS small HD tote, with a few holes drilled through the top. Just set your plant on top and it will collect all your runoff.

Cheap timers are okay for most lights, but for for any grow lights that aren't LEDs I really prefer an Intermatic Outdoor Timer.

Yes, it's a lot more than $7, but it's a small fraction of total setup cost. It mounts easily so you're not eating up plug space, it automatically adjusts for daylight savings time, it is approved for use in a damp location, it has two outlets(shared controller), it handles 15amps/1800 watts, does not have to be set again after power loss, and has a simple on/off timer override button. If you really wanted to, you can run it on the sunrise/sunset function built in.

There are only two drawbacks, original cost and battery replacement.

If you do amazon, just look up light timers. Usually, they are just plugins that you plug the light into. You might be able to find them cheaper at some of the bigger box stores. I saw an add that you can plug in a light timer and then control it with your phone, but you definitely probably wouldn't need anything high tech. Something like this would definitely work.

I am quite happy with the following (I use on a 10 gallon and a 3 gallon at the same time using a T-fitting and two diffusers and two indicators):

Diffuser @$16.99 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFUGE5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This diffuser is good for hanging on the side of your tank. There are many others to choose from.

7 day timer @$14.65 (Three prong plug for regulator solenoid): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHEHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You DO NOT want to let it run overnight because they say it will suffocate your fish.

CO2 indicator @#17.89 (need one for each tank) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9KWTHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CO2 proof tubing @#9.99 (regular tubing may leak CO2!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UCOFJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regulator with bubble counter and solenoid @$69.99 (Yes, this one works great at that price) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N42JPDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adaptor fitting to get regulator attached to a paintball tank @$9.90 (I had to modify this part, so pay attention): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Paintball tank @$21.49 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XKFQCM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dicks Sporting Goods will refill for $5 using your tank.

The issue with the adaptor is that the one I got had a bleed-off relief hole too far down in the threads such that the hole was exposed even when the tank was fully screwed in because the thread depth on the tank was shallow (fewer turns total) compared to the adaptor, Had to plug and re-drill the hole.

You should at least look at these components as part of your evaluation.

This is what I use, it's a little overkill but I like it. I also run it with a timer setup...
Double Fan Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009P0R6W6/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Timer Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YGS6P4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know if I can be of any help!

If you have a somewhat sophisticated router you could just set the ethernet port to its own VLAN and ensure that everything on that VLAN is configured as you'd like, possibly via firewall rules

----

One alternate, low sophistication approach is to get an ethernet switch just for that user. Plug the switch into your network via ethernet and plug the switch into a timed electric plug

https://www.amazon.com/UKOKE-UTM01WFBA-Appliance-Programmable-Electrical/dp/B06XHM1ZZ4

Set the timer schedule as you'd like.
It's hard to bipass a physical loss of power.

So i tend to like these more: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPT0IQA/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511793445&sr=1-7&keywords=timers+for+electrical+outlets

simply because they are easier to program.

>I called customer service and was told it's "normal" to have to reboot everything daily

This was true years ago. It was common to have to reboot routers and'or modems to clear up problems. It really should not be an issue with newer equipment. If you try it a few times and it works, buy a timer to automate the process for you. Just set it to turn the outlet off at two AM for a few minutes and then turn the outlet back on.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Programmable-CANAGROW-Electric-Grounded/dp/B07MC2MJG4/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2UV2YZ6EEJD0J&keywords=outlet+timer+indoor&qid=1565533600&s=gateway&sprefix=Outlet+timer%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-7

​

Finally, if you have owned your own equipment for a long time and it is older equipment, you might actually be falling into that group where you do need to reboot regularly. Or you can try updating the device firmware which may help.

thrift store crock pot + timer = happy

I would recommend getting a light timer if it isn't already built into your grow light: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPT0IQA/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=outlet+timer&qid=1571533763&sr=8-17 5 hours isn't going to be enough.

Outlet Timer, Digital Programmable Timer, CANAGROW 7 Day Weekly Heavy Duty Smart Indoor Timer for Electric Outlets, Wall Timer Switch Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC2MJG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PC0lDbVG4QE4Y

Here is the fan and here is the timer.

They make plug in receptacle timers. You plug the timer into plug, plug coffee maker into it, no tampering with anything.

Turn coffee maker on, have the timer set to 600 am to 630 am or whatever, and as long as you prepped the coffee maker it will start at 6.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XHM1ZZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517688468&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plug+in+timers+with+outlet&psc=1

That's just the first one I found. I'm sure if you look you could find simpler/more complex ones for what you like.

I'm sorry I have to say this, and I hope you don't take this as personal attack, it's certainly not meant as one, however, if you have to ask the question you did ask, you're almost certainly not qualified to build circuits that operate on mains voltage. Apart from the danger of electrocuting and killing yourself, there's a high chance for you start a fire.

What I would recommend is to get a dimming inter-plug that speaks zigbee. There are plenty of these around, and there are zigbee modules for arduino, raspi and pretty much everything else that you then use to speak to the inter-plug. That way you can build the low voltage part but don't have to mess with the mains voltage part. This here would be an example of what I mean: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-compatible-Monitoring-45852GE/dp/B019G6RQCS but there are many others from many other manufacturers as well.

I use "GE 45852GE Zigbee Smart Dimmer Plug-In 2-Outlet Lighting Control, No Wiring Required Works Directly with Alexa Plus, Echo Show (2nd Gen)"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019G6RQCS

Needs a Zigbee hub (such as found in Echo Plus or Echo Show 2nd gen)

I use this timer

Outlet Timer, NEARPOW Multifunctional Programmable Timer with Countdown and Infinite Short Cycle, 19 ON/OFF Programs, 7-Day Digital Timers for Electrical Outlets, 3 Prong, 15A/1800W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJ3K43N/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_keaMDbM0WV9GN

Most will only turn on/off unless specified. I've ordered this one, which should be able to dim: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B019G6RQCS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one's zigbee but I think they also have a z-wave one.

There are plenty of dimmable plugs, just not that use the Zigbee protocol.

Edit: this and this are examples

This is what I used to use for automatic day light / moon light. Its cheap and very reliable:

https://www.amazon.com/Coralife-05152-Digital-Power-Center/dp/B000CMKHR2

You can get cheap blue moon lights on eBay

A $10 digital light timer would do the trick...

iPower 7 Day Programmable Digital Electric Timer, Dual Outlet, Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FX6Q8D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8uk6Ab0BA20NA

You could go with an Insteon keypadlinc and then use lamp modules or bulbs at the other end. The keypad has 6 or 8 buttons, and you can control one of the lights directly with the module. The other lights you can either use an in-line module, or the bulbs themselves, and hardwire them in your junction box.

Keypad Linc

In-line Dimmer


Lamp Module

Insteon Bulb

I have this one set to my work schedule and it's glorious