(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power demolition drills & hammers

I bought this Skil Corded Version For $60. There is also a factory reconditioned version. It worked great for me. It is useful when you need to drill anything that needs a lot of torque too.

> I have the Makita combo with a drill, impact drill, and battery operated circular saw. I love my Makita, but I kind of wish I had the Milwaukee

I have the Makita "hammer" drill, and my roommate has the smaller milwaukee flavor of the month psuedo impact drill, but my Makita would rip it to shreds. It feels more like a toy in comparison.

http://smile.amazon.com/Makita-XPH012-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Driver-Drill/dp/B00N9ULIAE/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1464048241&sr=1-2&keywords=Makita+drill

vs

http://smile.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2407-22-Inch-Drill-Driver/dp/B00ELQYCUI/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1464048260&sr=1-6&keywords=Milwaukee+drill

I make less than $10k per year, my house and land cost me $4k to buy. I'm not going to hire or rent my way to a solution -- either I buy the tools, or I work by hand with what I've got. If I had a good manual method I'd do it that way, but my manual method is both tedious and gives poor results. 26 hours of labor is nothing to me. I spent over 200 hours this year terracing / building dry stone walls.

I think two closely spaced holes with a 2" chisel bit would give me the maximum desired post-hole diameter for pretty much all my jobs. This isn't granite I'm cutting into, it's crumbly shale.

I think a rotary drill/hammer or a jackhammer under $1k is probably the ticket but I'll probably need to rent one or two for a few hours to see if they can actually outperform me with my wrecking bar and sledge and pickaxe. They may not be much faster than me.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11335K-35-Pound-8-Inch-Hammer/dp/B000PWCNVW/

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11245EVS-2-Inch-SDS-Max-Rotary/dp/B00004SUPS/

you basically get a free case and a free bit for $412: https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-CP717K-Super-Hammer/dp/B000IW6XGA

you call that a scraper? that ain't a scraper, this is a scraper! :-)

http://jaylorconcrete.com/img/scraping/ride-on-floor-scraper.jpg

yeah, makita makes a handheld one:

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-HK1810-Variable-Scraper-Scaling/dp/B00004YOKZ

and there are pneumatic scraper chisels that would do it too.

call your local rental place and see what they have. Home depot rents stuff like that too.

That looks a lot like the all black sub-compact rotary hammer that Makita offers in the US. I don't think the blue DHR171Z is offered here. For what its worth the description of the Sub-Compact says accepts SDS-Plus bits - I'd expect the DHR171Z does too.

Will it do the job you need? Don't know - check out this review of the sub-compact.

I have a relatively low-end corded drill and it has a clutch, so I assumed it was a standard feature.

Good to know, thanks!

Within the past month, several companies have released new impact models that are dramatically quieter. It might be worth holding off a bit before buying an impact.

I do similar work (networking, A/V, security) and ended up needing a hammer drill for mounting speakers and cameras outside. There's not much difference in price with the Milwaukee, so I would recommend their hammer drill. The 12 V has been fine for me, and is much lighter which is a big consideration when you're carting it around with you everywhere.

The pelican case that was recommended looks very nice, but it's also the cost of a hammer drill kit that would come with a hard case. Milwaukee 2408-22 M12 3/8 Hammer Dr Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FNDMIF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_01R2xb4327ZYD

If you can pony up a bit more, you could get an SDS like this, but that's probably overkill:
Milwaukee 2412-22XC M12 1/2 SDS Rotary Hammer Kit W/2 Xc Bat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLUEVUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2RR2xb6GSVSFA

I'm going to go against the other guy's grain here and recommend the next model up from that one one. It has more about 20% more power, weighs about 4 pounds less, is more compact and easier to get into tight spaces, and is much more ergonomic. The difference between the two is astonishing as far as your productivity goes.

Ya I own brushed dewalt "USA w/global materials" drill/impact set already. It does the job for sure!

I should have clarified. I meant SDS like this one

DEWALT DCH133B 20V Max XR Brushless 1” D-Handle Rotary Hammer Drill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF4YEIF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jcnjzbHCRY7DD

Try using an expanding agent to break up the concrete: http://www.amazon.com/Dexpan-Demolition-Excavating-Alternative-Jackhammer/dp/B000BRQ9A2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

This will save you a lot of time compared to using a jack hammer alone. Here's another link showing what it looks like in use: http://www.dexpan.com/dexpan-how-to-use-dexpan-non-explosive-controlled-demolition-agent-breaking.aspx

Found some on Amazon, don't know what to think. Have always heard good things about maktia and maybe it's just this certain model

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH12Z-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Driver-Drill/product-reviews/B01M4HGFRS/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

My alarm bells are going off in my head.
Sounds like wrong screws, or low-quality racks.

So here is the thing about cordless drills:

You can go cheap, or you can go quality.

Eventually, somebody is going to drop it.
High quality drills usually survive a fall or three.
Cheap ones usually survive a fall or two.

The new fancy Li-Ion batteries should last 5+ years.
But the older technology ones all need new batteries about every 4-5 years.
The cost of a single Dewalt replacement battery is about the cost of a new Harbor Freight drill + battery combo.

Observation 2:

A nice, brawny drill loves to overtighten screws. If it has a torque clutch, use it to minimize over-tightening.
On that same note, all that power loves to strip out screws.
Lastly, all that power makes for a moderatly heavy tool, which leads to faster fatigue, which can cause poor alignment, which tends to cause more screw stripping.

I'd rather buy you an awesome set of proper screw drivers, with nice long necks to get around cable managers and rails.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ODOUHM/

If you really want power, I'd lean towards a powered screwdriver rather than a proper drill.
Or if you really, really want a drill, I'd be looking at lower-power, lighter weight units with a flashlight built-in.

Examples:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000C6DXE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BEE2LU/

I'm not buying this for you:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFADBHS/

Too big. Too heavy. Too much power. All I see is stripped screws everywhere.

You might want to try something like like this. The more someone tries to pull up the tighter its supposed to wedge. If they want it bad enough they will get it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIqoxsjsNE I would talk to someone who does concrete since you will need a hammer drill. A drill with regular bits will not work. You will just ruin the bits and waste your time. If you have a cordless drill/ hammer drill like this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCD985B-20-Volt-Lithium-2-Inch/dp/B007ML7EVI/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1518417647&sr=1-2&keywords=dewalt+hammer+drill you could to it yourself. Those drills take forever compared to an sds or sds max hammer drill. They also don't like bits over 1/2". They will work but the motor gets frakn hot. If you know someone with something like this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D25263K-D-Handle-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B00VNBV2F2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518417765&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+hammer+drill+sds or this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D25601K-4-Inch-Combination-Hammer/dp/B00MAB8DHY/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518417765&sr=1-5&keywords=dewalt+hammer+drill+sds your golden.

A needler? Like this one, for attaching to an air chisel?

For those, like me, who don't know what a demolition hammer is: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D25960K-40-Pound-Demolition-Hammer/dp/B00770YCZA

You want real stimulation!! Use this bad boi!!

Bosch 120-Volt 1-1/8 Brute Breaker Hammer BH2760VCB with Basic Cart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046REI8I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_h.OjDb48JASDX

A cordless model would be more expensive, doesn't make sense if you don't plan on using it much. Here is a less expensive model that will get the job done with no problem. It depends on how you would use it, but hammer drills usually don't see too much use by the normal DIY'er unless you're doing a lot of concrete projects. If you wanted a higher end model, the milwaukee one you chose would be a good choice.

I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.

If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.

If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.

For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.

For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.

It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.

It's important to clarify that I'm asking about a hammer drill, not an SDS rotary hammer drill. I don't see myself using a rotary hammer drill in the near future.

You could try dexpan.

http://www.amazon.com/Dexpan-Demolition-Excavating-Alternative-Jackhammer/dp/B000BRQ9A2

for the demo, rent a concrete drill from Home Depot/Lowes/whatever and drill a bunch of holes.

THen pour this stuff in.

Dexpan

You still have to dispose of the concrete chunks but so much easier than spending all day with a jack hammer. Hit up youtube for how to prep the stoop for the dexpan.

Use this: http://www.amazon.com/Dexpan-Demolition-Excavating-Alternative-Jackhammer/dp/B000BRQ9A2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465050465&sr=8-3&keywords=Non+explosive+rock

The stuff with the ridges under the tile isn't grout, it's thin-set adhesive cement. Try an oscillating tool with a grit blade.

A small scaling chisel would work too if you can find one to rent or borrow.

Its actually a rotary hammer.. Juss sayin

Edit: Looks similar to this model here

I do pest control and termite work. We ONLY use Bosch SDS hammerdrills. We probably drill out around 400 half inch to 3/4 inche holes per house, and try to get at least two jobs in during a normal day. Bosch is rebuildable if there is an issue, and can be had for less than 200 dollars. This is what we use for drilling into foundations (horizontally) we drill 1/2 inch holes through the block, sometimes solid concrete. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11255VSR-BULLDOG-SDS-plus-D-Handle/dp/B000BB79Q6/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1377122483&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+hammer+drill
and this is what we use when we have to downdrill or for big holes (1 1/2 inch wide) or when we use long bits (24 to 36 inches) http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RH328VC-8-Inch-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B003DQO7ES/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1377122483&sr=1-2&keywords=bosch+hammer+drill