Reddit mentions: The best power disc sanders

I'm gonna get some downvotes here, but it's their loss.

Do one room at a time.

You should get a http://www.amazon.com/Makita-GV5000-5-Inch-Disc-Sander/dp/B00004YOKT and some 16 grit disks (Buy a box of 50 on the interwebs). Get the nicest respirator in your hardware store and a Tyveck coverall (w/hood). Put a good shop vac outside with the hose threw a partly open window with something to block all extra space around hose. (you want to lower the air pressure in that room) keep all other doors and windows closed or walled off with plastic.


When those disks are new they are sharp! (But you shouldn't ware it out for four hours.)


Now here is the trick! when you touch (the outer 1/3 of) the disk to the wood, make those little grits travel in the same direction as the wood grain! (Make an earnest effort at being an "artiest" in the fine art of making that grit travel in the same direction as the wood grain. Start each new disk using it lightly, and harder as the disk gets less sharp.)


Oil primer and paint is for cavemen.


Use Benjamen Moore products (Or live to regret you did not)

Thin the first coat of primer by at least 25%


I'm going to be a nice guy and let you put more coats of paint on in the years to come. I will never let you put additional coats of primer under paint that has already been applied. so feel free to put 2 or even 3 coats of primer on before paint. (The reason paint "peals is the first coat of primer did not soak into the pours of the wood, thinning out first coat of the primer is very important)


The only thing worth using a chemical stripper on is molding or intricate edges.


Good luck.

I dealt with a similar issue when removing paneling from level 1 drywall in my home, and found a method that worked for me. Remove as much adhesive as possible with a scraper (a little damage to the facing is okay as long as you don’t gouge down to the gypsum). Then use a drywall sander with a 36-grit disk like this one and take it down a bit more to smooth things out.

WEN 6369 Variable Speed 5 Amp Drywall Sander with 15' Hose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRL9XYI/

Do any needed patches and repairs (gouges, holes, etc) and then roll the surface with a primer sealer (I used PPG). A good tip is to have some black added to the primer to add contrast. Then skim coat the surface with thinned out compound to get back to a nice, smooth finish. Prime and paint.

In my case it was more labor than doubling up or replacing the Sheetrock, but I just decided I didn’t want to deal with hauling all that drywall if I didn’t have to. For a ceiling I think it would probably be a worthwhile way to go (my shoulder doesn’t like taping overhead anymore).

For the skim coat, I rolled thinned premix on with a half inch roller, and scraped with a squeegee trowel like this (I used the 14” and 22” ones)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CCGEDOE/

I work within a commercial painting company and we occasionally get to deal with walls like this during remodels. Our go-to solution is to subcontract in a drywall crew to tear out and rehang the walls whenever possible. Our guys are union, so their labor rates are fairly high, and it is simply cheaper to pull the drywall and rehang/mud/finish than to use a sander and hope.

Whenever we cannot rehang the drywall, we use a drywall sander like you had liked below, only we use http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7800-Drywall-Sander-13-Foot/dp/B00002267Z/ with a vac attached. These are available for rent from most of the industrial rental companies and do a fine job of prepping the surface for paint.

I encourage the rehang of drywall to get a new surfaces, but it may be cheaper/less-invasive to sand.

If you're doing mostly wall repair you'll want a good 6" drywall knife, maybe one larger, the hand saw, and one of these with a 120 and 220 grit sanding screen: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002PEX73Q?cache=833fcdc62d697c76d7f62af3e9c92807&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1409021386&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Probably reclaimed boards and you can use a wire brush and rub with the grain to remove the early wood leaving the late wood more pronounced. Finish most likely is a wood wax, hand buffed.


Makita makes a nice tool we use to get this look.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9741-Wheel-Sander-3500/dp/B000I6QVTA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425860698&sr=8-2&keywords=makita+wire+wheel

What do you use to sand WITH?

http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-3102K-Composite-Pneumatic-Preparation/dp/B000DZGMOA/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b

Thanks!!

We scraped our entire house. What we did:

• Covered the entire floor with painter's plastic up. Tape up the walls to create a bowl.
  
• Soaked the entire ceiling. If it's not dripping wet, you're doing it wrong.
  
• Scraped. This took about 2 hours per bedroom with 2 people working.
  
• Rolled up the plastic
  
• Used a power drywall sander to smooth out any imperfections. Our first mistake was attempting to use a hand sander and that would have taken forever had we continued. We got this from Amazon that connects to a wet dry vac that prevents most dust. You will need a fancy respirator: the cheap white dust masks were useless.
  
• Primed and 2 coats of paint
  
  We did try the just-a-sander approach. Eventually you'll mess up and push too hard, and create a bare drywall spot, making the surface completely uneven.
  
  The process wasn't difficult, just really time consuming. We even had vaulted ceilings that required a really tall ladder. While going through this you think it's not worth the effort, but then you see the finished product, and are glad you did it.

This tool should help https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Electric-HandHeld-Drywall-Variable/dp/B01N4P6OZR

After killing my first orbital, I decided to spend some money and get a good one. I've been pretty happy.

They do make similar ones to the Grex in electric. Here's one by Metabo. https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-SXE400-8-Inch-Random-Sander/dp/B00004YBX5/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519820342&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=angled+sander+metabo It is completely right angle. I believe there was a 2" one on Amazon by another brand, red I think, with a better angle. Can't seem to find it now though. :-/

First I'll grind the welds to a rough radius with this 7" disc grinder.
http://www.amazon.com/Dynabrade-52563-7-Inch-Right-Sander/dp/B0027S6FVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1464233102&sr=1-1&keywords=dynabrade+52563

This is what i use to grind the weld seems to a fine radius.
http://www.amazon.com/Dynabrade-15003-Mini-Dynafile-Abrasive-12-Inch/dp/B00065TOR4

This is what I use to put the brushed finish on the surfaces. How ever the stainless we use already has a grain, but ill use the tool to clean up any scratches.
http://www.amazon.com/Air-Finishing-Tool-Kit-2800/dp/B002LZSNB0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1464232796&sr=1-2&keywords=13450+Dynisher+Finishing+Tool

Maybe around 6 months ago I was talking with a guy at the local Woodcraft about a combo sander but he talked me out of it because he didn't believe it to be a terribly useful product due to the size. He recommended this disc sander. He personally had one and knew another guy that worked there who had one and felt it could do just about any job a combo sander could do.

I do see that the 12" disc sander shows up as being clearance/closeout. My local Woodcraft still carries it for $200, but here is another option for a big disc sander I found doing a quick search.

the sander

Rent or buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/POWER-PRO-2100-Electric-Drywall-Sander/dp/B00U6CL4S4

Knock down the high areas, prime with a stain blocker, then paint whatever color suits you.

WEN 6369 Variable Speed 5 Amp Drywall Sander with 15' Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRL9XYI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i9cWDbGYC9GRH

I'm not sure you and I are operating with the same definition of portable.

Bench sander.

Portable sander.


I'd say this one is a hybrid.