(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best powersports chains & accessories

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice as I can't find any additional information on this no matter where I look. I need to replace the chain/sprocket on my 2003 SV650. I've narrowed down my choice to one product but there are two versions:

15/45 110L

15/45 114L

Guys...for the life of me I can't find a difference. Is it the number of links in the chain? Because I can't find what my OEM version is. Looking for any help I can get, thanks!

On my DRZ400E (Stock street legal) I changed the front sprocket from 14T to 15T.

I had to grind the case saver (stops the chain smashing into the case if the chain comes off) so it would fit. Or you could buy an aftermarket case saver.

This is the sprocket I bought($15USD). http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF432-15SC-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B005DUMZX2

While you have the front sprocket off you may as well do the loctite mod http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/540670-counter-shaft-sprocket-loctite-fix/

The gearing isn't too high for trail riding for me but I only weigh 65kg so this may not be relevant to you...

This dropped my revs around 500 (from 6000 to 5500rpm) at 100kmh

Any queries I would be happy to answer. I could also tell you about changing the rear sprocket (47T to 43T) if you want.

-Trackside Front/Rear stands for easy cleaning

• Degreaser
  
• Chain Brush
  
• Chain Lube
  
• Waterless Wash/Wax
  
• Wheel Cleaner
  
• Wheel Brush
  
  I clean and lube the chain about every 500 miles.
  Never pressure wash your electrical components (I just don’t pressure wash at all). Other than that, just changing the oil per the schedule and making sure everything runs fine.

My guess would be that the spacer or flange is needed to perfectly align with the rear sprocket. It should be evident enough when you take a look under the cover.

It looks like the Vortex sprocket has it, maybe try that next time?

> Is there any way to tell by looking?

lol yeah, one has a solid nose and the other has a hollow nose. The ends of the master link tell you.

Solid nose have a solid nose

Hollow nose have a hole on the end

I got about 7k out of my OEM. I tried the JIT, and will never do another (broke, and not at the master link). I went with a heavier chain this last time and it's been awesome - more than 12k on it now, very little adjustments needed, and no kinking so far.

DID Chain for NC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85ULQ

Spare Master Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FTJJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

FWIW, I have the OEM sprockets still on at 30K and they both still look good. When it comes time to get new sprockets, I will be going with OEM again.

This is a variant of an L-Faster motor kit. I just recently picked up a 36v version on Amazon for about $90 USD. Let me take you on a dead-end journey.

I bought this kit with the intention of putting in on a donor bike and powering it with three cheap SLA batteries in serial. Shortly after ordering this kit, I get an email from the seller telling me that any battery I use with the kit has to have a working current of 20A or less or else the controller will be fried. Not a big deal since I'm working with SLA batteries of 10ah or less.

When I received the kit, I got kinda antsy and wanted to see if the mounting plate would fit on my current bike only to find out that it did not. But my bike isn't some off-the-shelf department store bike, so I shrug and started looking for a donor bike. After searching thrift stores, pawn shops and yard sales, I find an old steel framed twelve speed for $20 that also has the left side seat and chain stays at the correct angle for the mounting bracket. I figure it'll just be a quick afternoon project to get it running.

Except the kit is meant to be mounted on the left side. The kit came with a threaded freewheel socket that was supposed to just screw into place on on the hub. But this is a department store bike, so the left side of the wheel hub is just smooth, unthreaded metal. So I watch a few Youtube videos to see what I'm missing. and none of them are any help. I would just use the sprocket from a gas motor kit, but that means I have to figure out how to remove the nine tooth fixed sprocket from the motor and mount the sixteen tooth freewheel to the gearbox shaft on the motor.

Right now, I'm thinking about mounting the whole thing on the right side by removing three gears from the cassette and mounting the freewheel sprocket in their place, but I don't even know if that's possible since this bike is probably over a decade old and obviously from Walmart.

In short, you need to know exactly what you're doing before you buy one of these things. It could be exactly what you're looking for. For all I know, it could be a neat little ride for short trips around town, but I have no way to mount this thing and I haven't found a single bike that I can actually mount it to.

Honestly, if you live in an area that's urban enough to commute by bike, you either need a mini-lock for your front wheel, a nice long chain lock, or buck up and secure your bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-M530HD-120-Connecting/dp/B00BV6W6DQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501682128&sr=8-4&keywords=RK+530+chain

Get something like that. Plenty strong for a Vulcan.

Really the best way to do this is with a rear hub motor. I'm guessing your setup uses a mid drive motor.
You could use some parts made for gasoline bikes and add a second sprocket on the left side of the rear wheel, then the pedal-powered drive train would be unaffected.
Here's an example of the parts in referring to, it basically adds another sprocket to the other side of the rear wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QVWSYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TFhXDbEKF3JAD

Hi there!
My friend is going abroad and i want him to pick up a few things for my bike.
I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told
http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

is going to work for me but i just want to make 100% sure

this is my bike
http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Mongoose/Teocali-Expert,6360#product-specs

I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts? my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top

No worries man, bored at work and just trying to help best I can.

For the chain I would first recommend some elbow grease and wd-40 to see how much of the rust comes off first, if it's still bad then get a new chain. You want 520 o-ring

Here's an example of a chain:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8OSKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_7WSnzbNPFVXVS

Haynes manual:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JGBM3N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_CYSnzbGCH3HYT


I wouldn't pay a shop more than $50 for a chain swap as it takes maybe 30min to do. Easy enough to do yourself if you want an excuse to drink a beer in the garage.

Just swap to a 15T for the front sprocket. It'll reduce those highway RPMs to something a lot more comfortable. Here's how to do it http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_change_the_front_sprocket%3F and here is a link to amazon.com for the sprocket http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF516-15-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B0031743MU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406683261&sr=8-1&keywords=JTF+516.15 it is just under 13$.

Looking around, I found this site

And it looks like stock chain for the 1981 year is 630

Which seemingly runs between ~50-65 dollars.

I would try to talk him down to $1000 if you could. You also have the advantage of a winter sale with you.

I did the install yesterday. It went onto my '17 smoothly without the use of a mallet. Nice tight fit though. Its still hard to find '17+ compatibility info so i thought id share. This thing is still available on amazon for $13.50 prime. Hands down the best $15 you can throw at your bike if you take it off road. You really have to keep it wound up for freeway speeds but i try to avoid them anyhow.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVQOI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jNkcBb67PXS6E

> Okay, so this is my chain:
> http://sprocketcenter.com/street-sprocket-applications/suzuki/sv-650-99-08/520-conversion-kit-superlite-rs7-steel-sprocket-set-with-colored-x-ring-chain-13-colors-suzuki-sv650-99-08.html
> And here is a clip I found with same day delivery on amazon:
> https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-Clip-Type-Connecting/dp/B00230567W?keywords=520+clip+master+link&qid=1537193544&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
> It appears this will work?

Copying what I commented, does this look okay?

So you took the existing rings off the stock crank, and just bolted a single, something like this (http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1463960659&sr=1-1&keywords=race+face+narrow+wide) in place? Still seems like I'm close to $200 going with those parts, but I haven't tried hunting for the cheapest prices on different sites yet.

how do i know what will fit it? 36t offset x 104 bcd, not sure what the 104bcd means? http://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Light-Bash-Guard-104mm/dp/B007VUOO7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1454259034&sr=1-1&keywords=blue+Bash+Guard

Think I'll just get something like this then since it's much cheaper than m7000 cranks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D3FG5EY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG&psc=1

Use a link press (or similar tool) to make sure the link is seated as far as it will go. Or go with a $6.40 riveted master
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTC520HDSGBRL-Rivet-Connecting/dp/B00SYLSTY6/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494794577&sr=1-13&keywords=520+rivet+link

Get him a bash guard!! They're super cheap and will let him bash everything in site: https://www.amazon.com/Race-Face-Light-Bash-Guard/dp/B07CKWN57G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_468_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=E4MXRSHMBC2R4461AERT

You should still replace the main chain ring. It'll never be perfectly straight/he'll lose chains. But bend it back in the meantime!

Had the same issue with a DB Hook. If it’s that cheap plastic piece above and below your chain ring, don’t bother with their chain guides, get a proper narrow wide chain ring and if you really want to, there’s this guide on amazon.

Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide, Mini Clamp On (31.8 - 34.9mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.CdBbYGY2MRT

Raceface makes a relatively cheap, well made narrow-wide chain ring.

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ring, Black, 32T 9/10/11 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_waDdBbE7C18PJ

http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTF1321-13-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B001AVQOI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377715391&sr=8-1&keywords=JT+Sprockets+JTF1321.13

You dont need to replace the BB unless there's something wrong with it. To go to 1x just get some of these and a chainring

> I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

Yes, that'll do the trick for a chainring. If you don't have a clutch rear derailleur (Shimano Shadow Plus or SRAM Type 2), you should pick up one of those as well.

>I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts?

That should work. You could also get a regular Reverb and not have to deal with funky cable routing. From a service perspective though, I personally think the KS Lev is a better buy. My Reverb has been fine, but they can be a pain to bleed and there have been a fair number of people who have had issues. If you don't have a convenient service center in your country, something more user-serviceable might be a better idea.

>my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top

The important number is how much seatpost you have exposed above the seat collar. Minimum seatpost exposure for a 125mm Reverb is just short of 200mm from the seat collar to the saddle rails. Adjust accordingly for the 100mm and 150mm versions. While you can set the Reverb to any height, it's bad for the seals to keep it lowered for any length of time and it's also a pain in the ass to have to partially re-lower the seat every time you raise it back up. If you are unable to ride your bike with more than 163mm of exposed seatpost, you won't be able to use a dropper - afaik, the Reverb has the lowest collar-to-rail height, and that's the height of the 100mm version.