Reddit mentions: The best powersports chains & accessories

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

> will that speedo/guage cluster work on the gen 1? I've still got the sport cluster on mine, yuck.

I can't say i know the Gen-1 however I do know that TrailTech makes kits for the Gen 1 and they are easy to add.

> did you need to coat the inside of your PVC brake reservoir with something? Once painted, does it look nicer than stock? I think mine is ugly.

I ditched that DIY reservoir after about 3 months, it was just a total eye sore (it was 100% functional though, i didn't coat it, PVC is tough shit.)

I'm now doing this, it's been good for a long while now:

http://i.imgur.com/X7b95dk.jpg

Read more about it here:
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/103606-tygon-clear-brake-reservoir-hose.html

The hose/tube is "Tygon 2075" - super chemical resistant.

This solution works really well too, my brakes are no different than before and i can always see the level in there.

> where did you get that chain, how much did it run you?

I'm assuming you're talking about the blue chain:

http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-SV650S-1999-2012-O-Ring-Chain/dp/B0052PPKDA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845373&sr=8-1&keywords=525+sv650+chain+blue

They're alright chains, be sure to maintain it though, mine went about 7k miles which isn't really a lot but then again, it's a $60 chain.

I've since moved to this:
http://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-3068-998S-Conversion/dp/B0031BNDRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845455&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+520+chain+conversion

> did you find an HID setup that worked? I'd love a good HID headlight, but haven't researched it yet.

I grabbed this kit

http://www.bkmoto.com/Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Universal%20Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Motorcycle%20HID%20kit

I think at the time he actually had a SV650 kit on the site but i went for the universal because I wasn't sure how it would fit in the LSL Urban headlight assembly/bucket.

As it turns out, it's a lot more simple than it appears, the most difficult part is that the HID bulb is HUGE and you won't be able to install it like a normal bulb- generally you have to remove the face of the headlight (glass/plastic part)- the LSL Urban took about 20 minutes of blasting with a heat gun and prying with a screw driver before it came apart, I installed the HID assembly and glued it all back together with some clear caulk.

Once the main assembly is installed you can put new HID bulbs in through the back the normal way, so it's easy from there on out- that said, i've never had to replace a HID bulb in my 4 years experience (in my car too) with them.

> have you found any good/cheap tank bags, hard or soft?

cyclegear.com, amazon.com, ebay.com, check the forums (svrider.com) too - the one that spent most of my time with was $25 at cycle gear- it was an "Iron Rider" ... simple clear plastic screen and a big zipper around the top, not water proof but it held a lunch/phone/wallet/tool roll pretty easily.

Now i just use a Ogio Mach 3 backpack because looking like a turtle is cool or something.

>how did you remove the dents from your gas tank? How did color matching go?

I wish. No that tank got thrown out as scrap- there was no saving it :) I just snagged a scratch / dent off of ebay that was the same year/color- it had one tiny nick in the top ... 100% functional otherwise. $300.

Amazon or eBay will have a brake kit.

CNC Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Sprocket-Adapter-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B07ZJ3STLC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RF5YNX546933&keywords=motorized+bicycle+sprocket+adapter+kit&qid=1574881286&sprefix=motorized+bicyle+sp%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-6

Disc Brake kit: https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Front-Back-Disk-Brake/dp/B07458MXNB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+disc+brake+kit&qid=1574883409&sr=8-1
Note: The CNC hub has a 6 bolt pattern near the center of the hub to bolt the rear disc onto. If you wish to use disc up front, you will need a front wheel or hub that can adapt to disc brakes. You can also find 26" wheels with these disc brake hubs already installed.

Front disc brake will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Life-Adjustable-Bracket-Mounting/dp/B019OML8VE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2/136-3711700-3661816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019OML8VE&pd_rd_r=9be28cda-a6eb-4e2e-917e-90974ef50b31&pd_rd_w=wq72u&pd_rd_wg=XttIU&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP&psc=1&refRID=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP

For the front, you will need a new front wheel. https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Rims-Alloy-Front-Wheel/dp/B01FWHAHEE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=26+x+1.75+bike+rim+disc&qid=1574887171&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Disc Brakes are ideal, (better stopping) but if you don't want to go the hassle of installing them, you can instead opt for v brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruiser-Steel-73-91mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5J16/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+v+brake+kit&qid=1574883735&sr=8-12

Use this video as a guide to installing disc brakes on your bike (please note, the rear disc will be bolted to the motorized bike sprocket, so, its mainly good for the front.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emW7M-ZD0Pw&t=104s


Also, if you prefer "Mag" wheels as opposed to spokes, here's a nice set of BBR tuning mags for $119. These Include the motorized bicycle rear sprocket, so the above listed CNC Sprocket Adapter will NOT be needed if you buy these wheels. The Mags are disc brake ready, no additional adapters needed outside of the front and rear caliper mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/BBR-Tuning-Mountain-Cruisers-Motorized/dp/B076PWYSFS/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+disc+brake+wheel&qid=1574884536&refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A6404041011%2Cp_36%3A-20000&rnid=386589011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-10

Make sure everything fits your bike before purchase. Also, feel free to do some research.

Hello!

I've got a 2012 FZ8, and I just replaced the chain and both sprockets. Here's what I used:

• DID 525VXGB X-Ring Chain
  
• Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
  
• Sunstar 2-459546 Rear Sprocket
  
  The problem: Pretty much any time I'm moving, I get a pretty loud whirring/buzzing/whining sound coming from the area of the front sprocket. I'm 98% it's the chain itself, at the moment it rotates around the front sprocket. Here's the facts:
  
  
• Increases in pitch as speed increases (though 35-45mph seems to increase sharply)
  
• Increases amplitude as load increases (e.g. it's much louder at 3/4 throttle than at 1/8th throttle)
  
• I might have those mixed up (my memory sucks)
  
• Only appears under positive load (cruise/acceleration)
  
• Almost completely disappears under negative load (deceleration)
  
• Still occurs with the clutch in and coasting, but not as loud
  
• Stock sprocket has a rubber insert, new sprocket does not (I imagine this could have something to do with it)
  
  I've adjusted the chain to spec and aligned the sprockets the best I could. When I installed the chain, I cleaned off the grease that came with it with kerosene, let it dry, and went for a test ride. I've since (after the test ride to warm up the chain) applied chain lube and haven't ridden it since. This is the first time I've changed a chain on a bike before. Is this sound normal? Does it go away? It's not terribly annoying, since my leg blocks 90% of the noise (I only hear it when I move my head to the side, or open up my legs), but I just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I torqued all nuts to spec on both sprockets and the axle. I've put the front sprocket cover back on (I had it off during the test ride), so I imagine that it will muffle the sound a bit. I also normally ride with earplugs so that will help too.
  
  Here's a video that shows the sound. I only get up to aboue 25-30mph, but you can still hear it. Notice that once I cut the throttle, the sound disappears. And keep in mind that it's a lot louder than the video makes it seem.
  
  Thanks!

Outisde of the BBK, you can do quite a bit. A 14t front sprocket will give you a bit more acceleration while reducing your top speed 6.667%. For me, it made 4th gear a little more usable.

You can also modify your airbox for really cheap, get a cool air intake kit(~$100), or just stick a cone air filter(K&N R-1100 ~$40) over the top of your throttle body and remove the entire airbox/snorkel.

Since they're pretty popular, you can also get slip-on mufflers for them. My full yosh system was ~$500 and my buddy did the FMF slip on for ~$300. I'm sure there are cheaper exhaust options out there.

They're just so easy to work on! I was not confident in working on bikes until a friend helped me install the 143 kit and since then I do most of the service on my other bikes too.

> Is there a particular crash bar or bung that is considered better than another? (I know this will vary from one bike to another but any recommendations?)

I tend to favour bars over bungs.

Reason being is that they tend to protrude more, they're a little more ugly depending on who you ask but who cares if it's all about safety and keeping the bills low?

> any recommendations for cleaning and maintenance products?

I like "muc-off", personally as far as cleaning goes. You just spray this stuff on, leave it 5 minutes and rinse off.

For cleaning your chain I recommend the good old toothbrush and some chain cleaner.

For chain lube, I think the general go-to is dry lube.

> I'd actually live to make a bike maintenance product and timescale recommendation superthread if that's allowed?

I'm not sure - but there is a motouk subreddit wiki.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

What bike?

Honestly, something like this is probably perfectly fine.

https://www.amazon.com/XFMT-Heavy-Motorcycles-O-Ring-Master/dp/B06VT91FZ1/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1501675331&sr=8-20&keywords=525+chain

Before chains got fancy with O rings, then X rings then XVXZY rings, we simply went down the to the local bike shop and they pulled how every many links off a big roll.

If you wanted to be fancy, you got the "Made in USA" Diamond brand chain. Otherwise, it was on a roll from Asia.

Although, I run gold plated EK X rings chains now...

Yes, do the 650r sprocket. Get a cone shaped grinding wheel to slightly flare out the sprocket to fit where the shaft splines taper off, don't just hammer it on as I have seen some do, Also slather the shaft with antizieze or waterproof grease once your test fit is good and a dab of blue locktite on the retainer bolts. The 14t makes it so much more enjoyable and drivable. I used this one. JT Sprockets JTF1307.14 14T Steel Front Sprocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW68E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_YAUizbBJWASJM

You're going to need a chain brush, chain cleaner and chain lube regardless. So buy them now, try clean it up and if it has no rust on, you should be good.

Chain brush


Chain cleaner (this really helps!)


I've had slight rust on a chain before on one spot, this cleaned it right up. To be completely honest, that chain looks done though. Get a new one to be on the safe side.

Since you are deciding between 1x10 and 2x10 (indicating some apprehension of being limited to 10 gears), if you decide to go 1x10, best thing to do is to get One Up's cassette modification kit to widen your gearing range. In that case, you will just need:

• A new Shimano cassette, as normal.
  
• One Up's 42 tooth sprocket. (You can also get the 40-tooth if you think you don't need so wide a range.)
  
• A front chain ring (go with a narrow-wide design to help keep your chain in place). Here is One Ups's, which is a few bucks more, but gives you spacers so you can use the bolts from your old configuration. A little cheaper is raceface's chainring; not sure it comes with spacers though.
  
• Get a new chain. KMC 10 speed is fine.
  
• Tools: an allen key set, cassette lockring tool (with a wrench), chainwhip, and a chainbreaker tool.
  
  Setting it up is easy, pretty much take out 2 sprockets in the cassette, and put the One Up sprockets in the proper locations. And there are plenty of online guides re converting to 1x10 from the 3x drivetrain (also very straightforward).

Very nice. Love the new/clean look.

Have you done the almost mandatory first mod of swapping the countershaft sprocket with one made for a xr650r? I recommend getting that knocked out before the first 1000 or so miles.

Reason: The stock sprocket on the countershaft is too thin. If left on it will eventually wear thru the splines on the shaft and spin. When you install it; it will go on backwards.(writing towards the engine)
One of the biggest "What to look out for" when buying a used xr650l is to look at that sprocket and see if it's been welded to the shaft. If you ever see one with a welded sprocket...not swapping is the reason.

http://www.amazon.com/renthal-283-520-15gp-ultralight-tooth-sprocket/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411213226&sr=8-3&keywords=renthal+xr650r+sprocket

Consider the 16 tooth sprocket for your first upgrade. It will require some minor wrenching and a few tools, but almost everyone agrees that the bike should have come from the factory with the 16 tooth front installed. It makes second and first gear much more usable, and the bike better pretty much all around.

edit: instructional video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkibrlgqL_A

Gorgeous looking bike, have fun!

I went with Competition Werkes exhaust with the baffle and their tidy tail kit. Fairly cheap, I think $650 shipped from them. I did see the tidy tail separately on Amazon and Revzilla for about $20 cheaper the other day

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQSXb2j4V-/

I've read all over that tuning for the exhaust on the 13+ years is a pain, but isn't neccessarily required. I havnt noticed any difference in power, but it does pop on decel a ton. Some people complain about hesitation off the line, but I havnt had any issues

The M4 GSXR 750 exhaust will bolt right up and looks and sound pretty damn good for $260

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOvLXpTjo-S/

11-16 SUZUKI GSXR600 & 750: M4 GP Series Slip-On Exhaust - Black (BLACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007C68PNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5fIJybTM02DJ6

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQOJNYDhpw/

I reused the old turn signals so I wouldn't have to cut the wires. They included smaller ones with splice connectors

I didn't want to go too crazy and drill a bigger hole so I used their plate light and had to splice 2 wires

The fit and finish of the kit is great for the price. A little gap here or there, but it feels solid and everything works

I also got a Supersprox stealth 45T for $100 on Amazon

+2 over stock and makes a bit of difference. Will fit on a broken-in stock chain too.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPP_VqHjYk6/

Supersprox Stealth Gold 530 45 Tooth Rear Sprocket for Triumph 955 1050 Speed Triple Daytona Sprint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF7XXB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c7HJyb5C9XEJW

My next mod will be a steel braided line for the rear. I noticed that when I took off the chain guard, my chain had touched the brake line and scuffed it a bit. I had to adjust the banjo bolt to avoid it touching again. I'll be replacing that ASAP

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice as I can't find any additional information on this no matter where I look. I need to replace the chain/sprocket on my 2003 SV650. I've narrowed down my choice to one product but there are two versions:

15/45 110L

15/45 114L

Guys...for the life of me I can't find a difference. Is it the number of links in the chain? Because I can't find what my OEM version is. Looking for any help I can get, thanks!

• http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Single-Speed-Converstion-Kit/dp/B00TWQ6XF4
  
• http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG6ZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934386&sr=8-1&keywords=race+face+34t
  
• http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/gusset-double-six-single-speed-sprocket/rp-prod17775?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAu9q2BRDq3MDbvOL1yaYBEiQAD6qoBthJ0uEuuCv0T4ogPVfr0zKU-zhw9AuODrixE28R_0YaAuiL8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
  
• http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-9-Speed/dp/B000RWE868/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934656&sr=8-1&keywords=SRAM+971
  
  This would work ? How do i know the race face chain ring size i have to get? 34t, yes, but 104mm, 110mm etc.. ?
  
  
• How about chainring 38, cog 12? gear inches come to 83,4 like that, that seems optimal, is it ?
  
• Or, chainring 34, cog 14? chainring 34, cog 12?
  
• Can i measure the size of the cog i need.
  
• Explain this like im 5

haha sorry for the newb bicycle limbo. I meant one of those things that protect your chain from coming off in the front. A chain guide to be precise.

I'm looking at this raceface 32T chainring. Would I still need shorter chainring bolts etc?

I have a long cage X9 in the rear. It's a type-2 (which I think is similar to shadow+ but not really sure).

Really appreciate your input. Racing again next week so I gotta get this setup going+trials fast!

I weighed 235 when I got it in May, and weigh 220 now.

I guess I shouldn't say stock. Forgot I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket the first week I got it and was able to hit 60 with no headwind, but that costs like 9 bucks on Amazon and takes about 15 mins to swap.

All the other stuff I did just made it quicker, like exhaust, ecu, intake, and clutch springs (which barely helped, should have gotten stronger ones) because the clutch sucks.

I mean the real ones are like $13 dollars more, don't buy unnecessary food/coffee/drink/whatever for a week and you've recuperated the cost of wondering. https://amzn.com/B00D3FG6ZW

I'm still running the stock Raleigh generic narrow wide that came with my bike, but when I finish destroying it I'll be going with a RaceFace.

Under 40 bucks and really well reviewed, I think they look good too.

I purchased a 600r sprocket from amazon and I had to file a small amount on the backside to get the retaining plate on. This is the one I purchased https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTW5E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DGyozbRTVXWQM

C'mon man, everyone's doin' it...