Reddit mentions: The best powersports drive chains

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

> will that speedo/guage cluster work on the gen 1? I've still got the sport cluster on mine, yuck.

I can't say i know the Gen-1 however I do know that TrailTech makes kits for the Gen 1 and they are easy to add.

> did you need to coat the inside of your PVC brake reservoir with something? Once painted, does it look nicer than stock? I think mine is ugly.

I ditched that DIY reservoir after about 3 months, it was just a total eye sore (it was 100% functional though, i didn't coat it, PVC is tough shit.)

I'm now doing this, it's been good for a long while now:

http://i.imgur.com/X7b95dk.jpg

Read more about it here:
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/103606-tygon-clear-brake-reservoir-hose.html

The hose/tube is "Tygon 2075" - super chemical resistant.

This solution works really well too, my brakes are no different than before and i can always see the level in there.

> where did you get that chain, how much did it run you?

I'm assuming you're talking about the blue chain:

http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-SV650S-1999-2012-O-Ring-Chain/dp/B0052PPKDA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845373&sr=8-1&keywords=525+sv650+chain+blue

They're alright chains, be sure to maintain it though, mine went about 7k miles which isn't really a lot but then again, it's a $60 chain.

I've since moved to this:
http://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-3068-998S-Conversion/dp/B0031BNDRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411845455&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+520+chain+conversion

> did you find an HID setup that worked? I'd love a good HID headlight, but haven't researched it yet.

I grabbed this kit

http://www.bkmoto.com/Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Universal%20Motorcycle%20HID%20kits/Motorcycle%20HID%20kit

I think at the time he actually had a SV650 kit on the site but i went for the universal because I wasn't sure how it would fit in the LSL Urban headlight assembly/bucket.

As it turns out, it's a lot more simple than it appears, the most difficult part is that the HID bulb is HUGE and you won't be able to install it like a normal bulb- generally you have to remove the face of the headlight (glass/plastic part)- the LSL Urban took about 20 minutes of blasting with a heat gun and prying with a screw driver before it came apart, I installed the HID assembly and glued it all back together with some clear caulk.

Once the main assembly is installed you can put new HID bulbs in through the back the normal way, so it's easy from there on out- that said, i've never had to replace a HID bulb in my 4 years experience (in my car too) with them.

> have you found any good/cheap tank bags, hard or soft?

cyclegear.com, amazon.com, ebay.com, check the forums (svrider.com) too - the one that spent most of my time with was $25 at cycle gear- it was an "Iron Rider" ... simple clear plastic screen and a big zipper around the top, not water proof but it held a lunch/phone/wallet/tool roll pretty easily.

Now i just use a Ogio Mach 3 backpack because looking like a turtle is cool or something.

>how did you remove the dents from your gas tank? How did color matching go?

I wish. No that tank got thrown out as scrap- there was no saving it :) I just snagged a scratch / dent off of ebay that was the same year/color- it had one tiny nick in the top ... 100% functional otherwise. $300.

Hello!

I've got a 2012 FZ8, and I just replaced the chain and both sprockets. Here's what I used:

• DID 525VXGB X-Ring Chain
  
• Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
  
• Sunstar 2-459546 Rear Sprocket
  
  The problem: Pretty much any time I'm moving, I get a pretty loud whirring/buzzing/whining sound coming from the area of the front sprocket. I'm 98% it's the chain itself, at the moment it rotates around the front sprocket. Here's the facts:
  
  
• Increases in pitch as speed increases (though 35-45mph seems to increase sharply)
  
• Increases amplitude as load increases (e.g. it's much louder at 3/4 throttle than at 1/8th throttle)
  
• I might have those mixed up (my memory sucks)
  
• Only appears under positive load (cruise/acceleration)
  
• Almost completely disappears under negative load (deceleration)
  
• Still occurs with the clutch in and coasting, but not as loud
  
• Stock sprocket has a rubber insert, new sprocket does not (I imagine this could have something to do with it)
  
  I've adjusted the chain to spec and aligned the sprockets the best I could. When I installed the chain, I cleaned off the grease that came with it with kerosene, let it dry, and went for a test ride. I've since (after the test ride to warm up the chain) applied chain lube and haven't ridden it since. This is the first time I've changed a chain on a bike before. Is this sound normal? Does it go away? It's not terribly annoying, since my leg blocks 90% of the noise (I only hear it when I move my head to the side, or open up my legs), but I just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I torqued all nuts to spec on both sprockets and the axle. I've put the front sprocket cover back on (I had it off during the test ride), so I imagine that it will muffle the sound a bit. I also normally ride with earplugs so that will help too.
  
  Here's a video that shows the sound. I only get up to aboue 25-30mph, but you can still hear it. Notice that once I cut the throttle, the sound disappears. And keep in mind that it's a lot louder than the video makes it seem.
  
  Thanks!

> Is there a particular crash bar or bung that is considered better than another? (I know this will vary from one bike to another but any recommendations?)

I tend to favour bars over bungs.

Reason being is that they tend to protrude more, they're a little more ugly depending on who you ask but who cares if it's all about safety and keeping the bills low?

> any recommendations for cleaning and maintenance products?

I like "muc-off", personally as far as cleaning goes. You just spray this stuff on, leave it 5 minutes and rinse off.

For cleaning your chain I recommend the good old toothbrush and some chain cleaner.

For chain lube, I think the general go-to is dry lube.

> I'd actually live to make a bike maintenance product and timescale recommendation superthread if that's allowed?

I'm not sure - but there is a motouk subreddit wiki.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

You're going to need a chain brush, chain cleaner and chain lube regardless. So buy them now, try clean it up and if it has no rust on, you should be good.

Chain brush


Chain cleaner (this really helps!)


I've had slight rust on a chain before on one spot, this cleaned it right up. To be completely honest, that chain looks done though. Get a new one to be on the safe side.

Since you are deciding between 1x10 and 2x10 (indicating some apprehension of being limited to 10 gears), if you decide to go 1x10, best thing to do is to get One Up's cassette modification kit to widen your gearing range. In that case, you will just need:

• A new Shimano cassette, as normal.
  
• One Up's 42 tooth sprocket. (You can also get the 40-tooth if you think you don't need so wide a range.)
  
• A front chain ring (go with a narrow-wide design to help keep your chain in place). Here is One Ups's, which is a few bucks more, but gives you spacers so you can use the bolts from your old configuration. A little cheaper is raceface's chainring; not sure it comes with spacers though.
  
• Get a new chain. KMC 10 speed is fine.
  
• Tools: an allen key set, cassette lockring tool (with a wrench), chainwhip, and a chainbreaker tool.
  
  Setting it up is easy, pretty much take out 2 sprockets in the cassette, and put the One Up sprockets in the proper locations. And there are plenty of online guides re converting to 1x10 from the 3x drivetrain (also very straightforward).

• http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Single-Speed-Converstion-Kit/dp/B00TWQ6XF4
  
• http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG6ZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934386&sr=8-1&keywords=race+face+34t
  
• http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/gusset-double-six-single-speed-sprocket/rp-prod17775?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAu9q2BRDq3MDbvOL1yaYBEiQAD6qoBthJ0uEuuCv0T4ogPVfr0zKU-zhw9AuODrixE28R_0YaAuiL8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
  
• http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-9-Speed/dp/B000RWE868/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934656&sr=8-1&keywords=SRAM+971
  
  This would work ? How do i know the race face chain ring size i have to get? 34t, yes, but 104mm, 110mm etc.. ?
  
  
• How about chainring 38, cog 12? gear inches come to 83,4 like that, that seems optimal, is it ?
  
• Or, chainring 34, cog 14? chainring 34, cog 12?
  
• Can i measure the size of the cog i need.
  
• Explain this like im 5

haha sorry for the newb bicycle limbo. I meant one of those things that protect your chain from coming off in the front. A chain guide to be precise.

I'm looking at this raceface 32T chainring. Would I still need shorter chainring bolts etc?

I have a long cage X9 in the rear. It's a type-2 (which I think is similar to shadow+ but not really sure).

Really appreciate your input. Racing again next week so I gotta get this setup going+trials fast!

I got about 7k out of my OEM. I tried the JIT, and will never do another (broke, and not at the master link). I went with a heavier chain this last time and it's been awesome - more than 12k on it now, very little adjustments needed, and no kinking so far.

DID Chain for NC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85ULQ

Spare Master Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FTJJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

FWIW, I have the OEM sprockets still on at 30K and they both still look good. When it comes time to get new sprockets, I will be going with OEM again.

Honestly, if you live in an area that's urban enough to commute by bike, you either need a mini-lock for your front wheel, a nice long chain lock, or buck up and secure your bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-M530HD-120-Connecting/dp/B00BV6W6DQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501682128&sr=8-4&keywords=RK+530+chain

Get something like that. Plenty strong for a Vulcan.

Hi there!
My friend is going abroad and i want him to pick up a few things for my bike.
I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told
http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

is going to work for me but i just want to make 100% sure

this is my bike
http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Mongoose/Teocali-Expert,6360#product-specs

I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts? my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top

No worries man, bored at work and just trying to help best I can.

For the chain I would first recommend some elbow grease and wd-40 to see how much of the rust comes off first, if it's still bad then get a new chain. You want 520 o-ring

Here's an example of a chain:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8OSKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_7WSnzbNPFVXVS

Haynes manual:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JGBM3N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_CYSnzbGCH3HYT


I wouldn't pay a shop more than $50 for a chain swap as it takes maybe 30min to do. Easy enough to do yourself if you want an excuse to drink a beer in the garage.

Looking around, I found this site

And it looks like stock chain for the 1981 year is 630

Which seemingly runs between ~50-65 dollars.

I would try to talk him down to $1000 if you could. You also have the advantage of a winter sale with you.

> Okay, so this is my chain:
> http://sprocketcenter.com/street-sprocket-applications/suzuki/sv-650-99-08/520-conversion-kit-superlite-rs7-steel-sprocket-set-with-colored-x-ring-chain-13-colors-suzuki-sv650-99-08.html
> And here is a clip I found with same day delivery on amazon:
> https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-Clip-Type-Connecting/dp/B00230567W?keywords=520+clip+master+link&qid=1537193544&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
> It appears this will work?

Copying what I commented, does this look okay?

So you took the existing rings off the stock crank, and just bolted a single, something like this (http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1463960659&sr=1-1&keywords=race+face+narrow+wide) in place? Still seems like I'm close to $200 going with those parts, but I haven't tried hunting for the cheapest prices on different sites yet.

Think I'll just get something like this then since it's much cheaper than m7000 cranks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D3FG5EY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A2RNBXAVQ4OOHG&psc=1

I mean the real ones are like $13 dollars more, don't buy unnecessary food/coffee/drink/whatever for a week and you've recuperated the cost of wondering. https://amzn.com/B00D3FG6ZW

I'm still running the stock Raleigh generic narrow wide that came with my bike, but when I finish destroying it I'll be going with a RaceFace.

Under 40 bucks and really well reviewed, I think they look good too.

Had the same issue with a DB Hook. If it’s that cheap plastic piece above and below your chain ring, don’t bother with their chain guides, get a proper narrow wide chain ring and if you really want to, there’s this guide on amazon.

Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide, Mini Clamp On (31.8 - 34.9mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.CdBbYGY2MRT

Raceface makes a relatively cheap, well made narrow-wide chain ring.

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ring, Black, 32T 9/10/11 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_waDdBbE7C18PJ

I just replaced my chain / sprockets. I went with Vortex steel sprockets (15/44) off revzilla, and a RK GB520GXW chain from Amazon. All in I think it was under $140 with 2 day shipping. The chain needs to be cut down to 108 links and don't forget a rivet tool.

Any particular reason you want to stick with 525 vs 520?

https://www.amazon.com/Ek-520X120-Sro6-Chain-520SRO6-120-SKJ/dp/B00T6J3K6W?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/KING-PROCOMPANY-stroke-Motorized-Master/dp/B00NIGUEYU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539813408&sr=8-4&keywords=415+chain#customerReviews
I've been using this one for 500 miles now

C'mon man, everyone's doin' it...

Here ya go https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85XFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U-nsDb56NSD0R

From my Google doc:

• gsxr front end
  
• protek ll-45 lowering links (at stock height, from previous owner)
  
• delkevic 320mm ss tri-oval slip-on exhaust (w/o baffle)
  
• vortex v3 keyless gas cap
  
• oem sv tank pad (990D0-16G00-PAD)
  
• generic mirror plug blanks
  
• mzs black shorty levers
  
• yamaha r6 throttle sleeve
  
• speed bleeders f/r
  
• targa fender eliminator
  
• targa mini oval turn signals
  
• sbl ba9s led turn signal bulbs
  
• generic led flasher relay
  
• sbl lsc-100a brake light strobe module
  
• opt7 fluxbeam cree h4 led headlight
  
• vortex steel 520 sprockets 15f/47r (15/45 stock)
  
• rk racing gb520xso chain
  
• svracing captured rear wheel spacer kit
  
• smartmoto dealer mode tool
  
• tps adjustment (set to ~1600 rpm)
  
• sv1000 air snorkel (13891-16G20)

You dont need to replace the BB unless there's something wrong with it. To go to 1x just get some of these and a chainring

> I wanna go 1x10 but i´m having trouble knowing what i need, i was told http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416311677&sr=8-1&keywords=raceface+narrow+wide&pebp=1416311548585

Yes, that'll do the trick for a chainring. If you don't have a clutch rear derailleur (Shimano Shadow Plus or SRAM Type 2), you should pick up one of those as well.

>I also wanted to pick up rockshox reverb stealth, but my bike does not have those holes for it, but the space under my seatpost is open so i´m thinking it can come out there... thoughts?

That should work. You could also get a regular Reverb and not have to deal with funky cable routing. From a service perspective though, I personally think the KS Lev is a better buy. My Reverb has been fine, but they can be a pain to bleed and there have been a fair number of people who have had issues. If you don't have a convenient service center in your country, something more user-serviceable might be a better idea.

>my seatpost is 31.6 x 350 but the smallest reverb i found is 31,6x380 so it´s longer, i´m a pretty short guy but from what i read the reverb can stop at any position, it does not have drop/middle/top

The important number is how much seatpost you have exposed above the seat collar. Minimum seatpost exposure for a 125mm Reverb is just short of 200mm from the seat collar to the saddle rails. Adjust accordingly for the 100mm and 150mm versions. While you can set the Reverb to any height, it's bad for the seals to keep it lowered for any length of time and it's also a pain in the ass to have to partially re-lower the seat every time you raise it back up. If you are unable to ride your bike with more than 163mm of exposed seatpost, you won't be able to use a dropper - afaik, the Reverb has the lowest collar-to-rail height, and that's the height of the 100mm version.