#3,158 in Tools & Home Improvement
Reddit mentions of Power Gear GFCI Tester, 110V-125V, 50957
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 8
We found 8 Reddit mentions of Power Gear GFCI Tester, 110V-125V, 50957. Here are the top ones.
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Detects potentially incorrect wiring conditionsIdeal for use with 110-125 VAC GFCI receptaclesIdeal for home remodels and renovationsLightweight and portable for convenient transport at project sitePart number 50957
Specs:
| Color | White |
| Height | 0.75 Inches |
| Length | 5.5 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
| Width | 2.75 Inches |
As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.
When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.
GFCI will work just fine. There may be some confusion on your part about the wording as a GFCI actually measures the current on the hot conductor and returning on the neutral conductor. If there is more than a 5ma (milli-amp) difference between those amounts, the GFCI trips for a personnel protection GFCI. Equipment protection GFCI trips when the difference is 30ma.
GFCI protection was considered an acceptable form of protection for ungrounded circuits in past editions of the NEC (National Electric Code), probably still is, but I can't be arsed to look up the code reference right now.
Edit:
> Is there something I can measure with my voltmeter to check if the inverter-powered circuit is compatible?
You can purchase a cheap GFCI trip tester at any hardware store or you can buy a much more expensive tester to verify that the GFCI trips within the correct range for milliamps and milliseconds.
It's not exactly uncommon for someone to get sick and tired of dealing with 2 prong outlets who then shuts off a circuit and replaces the outlets with 3 prong versions that have a spot for the ground but aren't actually grounded to anything (since an outlet costs less than $1).
The proper way to deal with that (if you're not replacing wiring) is a GFCI with a tag of "no equipment ground" that can protect the entire circuit of outlets or be done at each box. Sometimes, boxes that old will be small enough that GFCIs might be tricky to fit without replacement of the enclosure.
While plenty of things can be "grandfathered", I think it's generally a code violation to have a ground receptacle that's not actually grounded. If you wanted to run down that road and raise heck, get a tester to verify. It might give you a bit more leverage in asking for at least GFCI outlet installation.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-50957-GFCI-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIU
http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/downloadImage/2-1134-1005/450-141/gfcibig.JPG
I ended up buying this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LZTKIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Because the one I linked was a add on item which I couldn't buy unless I had $25 worth of stuff in my cart
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050LVFS0 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIU
Get an Outlet Tester, it'll tell you what is jacked with the outlet.
If the outlet is good, there will be a place on the back of the DW where the wires connect. Make sure the correct wires are in the correct spot and that it's properly grounded.
Source: just some dude.
A couple of ways. They make an inexpensive outlets tester (6-8 bucks) that tests the outlet.
GFCI tester
Or you can take a multimeter and read from neutral to ground using resistance and it should be in a low ohm range. Like 10 or less as the neutral and ground are bonded at your service. If it's not reading low and reading open, the neutral is open on that branch circuit somewhere between that outlet box and the service.
If the outlet isn't functioning, replace it first with a standard outlet, then grab one of these and test whether the existing circuit is GFCI protected. If not, throw a GFCI outlet in it's place.
If you want GFCI protection with USB plugs, you could add a GFCI breaker, or GFCI outlet upstream then put a standard outlet with USB plugs.