Reddit mentions of Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM

Ideally, if you're connecting a PC to anything that makes noise, use an optical Toslink. Those are not electrically conductive, which means the only thing that gets transferred across is the digital sound data. Ground loops become impossible.

This obviously requires that whatever you connect to (an amplifier, or powered speakers) have an optical in. Alternatively, you could go with something like this https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Without an optical out, you might wind up needing one of these, too: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE or something along those lines.

This all does cost more than a ground loop isolator, but it also doesn't do serious damage to the quality of the audio. It's better to break the electrical connection between the units than to try to filter out the 50/60 Hz line noise.

The other response is correct. You use that 3.5-RCA red/white splitter and set the Denon to the right input.

That said, you're spending a lot and I would recommend one more purchase that will either use the Denon or itself to decode digital music. This is a cheap option that can do both. Plug it into your USB, then run RCA cables or an optical cable to the Denon.

Cheap alternative is to get something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_10 that converts your digital into anolog and connect that into your receiver. Its only 20 bucks. Worked great for me.

All right metalhead can nerds and audiophiles, I need some new headphones! I posted this over at /r/headphones but got no reply. I figured this might be a good thread to try and grab a response or some opinions, and this sub is more likely to have an opinion specifically tailored to my music tastes and needs. Here's a copy of the format from their advice thread:

> Budget - $250-$300 MAX
>
> Source - MacBook Pro & a VERY basic DAC (will upgrade that later), also have a turntable and stereo setup
>
> Requirements for Isolation - None, Really
>
> Will you be using these Headphones in Public? No
>
> Preferred Type of Headphone - Over Ear, closed Back
>
> Preferred tonal balance - Heavy, tight Bass
>
> Current headphones - Audio Technica Air ATH-AD700
>
> Preferred Music - I listen primarily to sludge and doom metal (Electric Wizard, Conan, Windhand, and YOB for example)
>
> What would you like to improve on from your set-up - The Airs REALLY lack any "oomf" and are very very bass light so I end up using my Focal IEMs. I like their sound stage though. Ive been thinking about making a change to closed backs for the extra bass, but I still want a tight, strong, warm, controlled bass...not a mindless over saturated vibrating bass that loses detail & overpowers the treble and mids.
> I am willing to look in to a basic amp if needed, so that would not be an issue. Im also willing to look at open backs again as well if there is a good contender.

So far my main upgrade options ive been looking at are:

Audio Technica ATH-M50X (I HAVE developed a liking for the AT brand)
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO (250 Ohm)

Thanks for any advice!

Macbook dac's are actually incredibly great. Measurements put them above many external dacs sold. The impedance mismatch causes issues that makes high-impedance headphones sound so bad on macbooks. Although reduced, the majority of the problem is still there when the headphone's signal is still passing through the mac's amplifier, even if it's going into a second amp rather than the headphones. Really shitty of schiit to advertise those 3.5mm to RVC as a solution for people without an dedicated DAC. OP MUST buy a dac. Even something like this would massively increase his audio quality.

/u/carpenterio

Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.

Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.

In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).

Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.

Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.

1. Check warranty. Don't remember what the Topping one is. Probably won't be any but just in case.
   
2. Try something like this to see if it resolves your issue.
   
3. Sadly, replace DAC.

To get MacBook air to optical out, you can use a USB to optical converter like this DAC (can't vouch for quality but reviews are good)
Signstek HIFI USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E2maCb7NXB9B8

For your second question, you could use an optical audio switch. Then you can use the remote to switch the inputs.
ESYNIC 3 Port Toslink Switch Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3X1 with IR Remote Control Aluminum Alloy SPDIF Switcher 3 In 1 Out with 6.6ft Optical Cable Supports PCM2.0 5.1CH DTS Dolby-AC3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W8DG3P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F.maCbYFW5QB2

If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.

For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.

If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.

Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.

micca rb42, micca origain a250 amp, micca speaker cables - 250. No need for a sub. It will blow your doors off.

If you are still having popping and hissing, add this - https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

This is an inexpensive option...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE?refRID=51XGW5EQE681WAFS6S3Y&ref_=pd_ybh_a_42

I'm not familiar with your onboard soundcard chip so I don't want to give a premature judgment, but my own PCs soundcard is absolutely atrocious. Just pitiful. Compared to my iPhone (which usually packs a very good DAC chip compared to other smartphones), my PC sounds like utter garbage. So chances are, you probably have a not-so-uncommon case of the phone's DAC chip being noticeably better than your PC's DAC chip. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, but want your PC to sound as good or better than your smartphone, you can get these very cheap external sound cards that do the job nicely. They are based off the PCM2704 USB DAC chip and sound very good for the price and also offer a plethora of outputs for your future audio needs like coaxial etc. Or you can just get a relatively expensive DAC and be done with the DAC problem for good.

If you're passing through USB already, a cheap USB DAC will work out of the box in OS X. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE/

You can try the Schiit fulla 2. Should serve you just fine for $100+shipping. Alternatively you can grab the Magni Uber but save a ton of money on the DAC if you go for something like this.

a cheap DAC will help clean up any noise that you'd likely be getting otherwise from the mobo's line out. I got this cheap one to stack with an SMSL 36A Pro amp. Plenty of volume for me. The downside to the DAC is it only supports 44.1/16, and the 48/16 implementation is flawed according to reviews noting some increased distortion. so a better DAC like this guy might be better, and gives you a decent headphone amp, but puts you over your budget.

I have this same setup and use the below DAC to connect to my PC, works great and will improve sound quality as it is most likely better than your motherboards on-board DAC, it also has a 3.5mm for headphones and in my case was plenty to drive my cans
www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=pd_sim_422_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51A8VIDw6OL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR160%2C160&refRID=0HCHW4XJV8AK99ZZ41BH

Chromecast audio for streaming from various services, and a wired connection to the PC for everything else. Is something wrong with the built in sound card? If your computer is recent, it will be perfectly fine and you'll just need a 3.5mm to dual RCA cable. Otherwise get this little device (use the optical connection if you have one just to avoid any potential ground issues) and a pair of RCA cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Probably this one. And don't forget an optical cable if you don't have one. You'll be guaranteed 100% clean flawless digital output. Also since optical is nonconductive, you can't have any ground loops or other electrical issue coming from your computer.

getting any dac would help compared to shitty onboard audio, but amp doesnt matter too much for this

source: had m50x and shitty onboard laptop sound, bought a random cheap dac from amazon and it sounded loads better

An AVR will work for all of these directly, if you run your PC's HDMI through it. If you stick with USB for PC sound, you'll also want a USB sound card to connect the PC, and you can connect them to a stereo receiver rather than an AVR. The sound card could also be a DAC, or a lot of receivers have built in DACs that accept digital audio.

So AVR, or USB sound card and receiver (stereo or AV).

https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-N303BL-Stereo-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B074F246M9/

https://smile.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/

An example of what I’m taking about

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mtjEDbAY4AM16

I don't think you'll find a simple solution to do what you want.

I accomplish this myself using a playbar. I have a home theater PC that connects to my TV with an HDMI cable and my TV has an optical output which then connects to the playbar.

You can achieve a similar setup by connecting your laptop to your TV (using your TV as an external monitor for your laptop display) then buying a playbar (or playbase) and connecting your TV optical output to your new sonos device. If you don't have a TV or do not want to use a TV for this, then you can buy an external soundcard or an external DAC (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE) which will offer optical output.

I'm a little confused when you say you're looking for a "room speaker". What does that mean and why do you feel a playbar/playbase would not be good? A playbar or playbase sound GREAT by themselves and will definitely fill a small to moderate size room with good sound. In the future, if you then get another play-1, you'll be able to pair the playbar/base, and two play ones to be surround sound. Eventually, you can get a sub and have a pretty good setup for sound (kinda 5.1'ish)

So I do have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

I haven’t actually tried using it as a loopback device, I only use it to play music to a devialet phantom speaker from an iOS device, but I think with a headphone splitter it would work.

What I actually use is Rogue Amoeba’s Loopback app. It’s pricey, but it does work great. Soundflower also works, but is not as good (you get what you pay for basically).

And yeah, it is insane that Apple provides no API for this purpose and everyone is shipping these BS kexts to work around the problem. I could too, but I really hate 3rd party kexts and I’d rather not add to the mess.

Supposing Apple made a user space API for system audio capture, I would definitely be all over it. I’m 100% sure they are aware of the problem, they’re just being stubborn/lazy for some reason.

The hiss is due to a cheap amp/DAC. I have a driverless DAC that works flawlessly with chrome OS and removes the hiss.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FEDHHKE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427207898&sr=8-1&keywords=Muse+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=51zvFYVW4fL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Hi, I'm looking for something I can use for USB (phone), TV, and maybe blue tooth input to an integrated amp. FM Tuner would be nice too. I think I'm looking for Pre Amp but could be wrong.

I'm also wondering about an inexpensive DAC to plug a phone into most any stereo. Would this (Signstek HIFI USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Decoder Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB) work ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE?keywords=muse%20usb%20dac&qid=1452139704&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
I have an Exposure XX integrated amp from way back so it only has RCA input.
Thank You

I have these and they both work well, currently using the hdmi one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE

​

I have an old receiver so I use this mod which actively transcodes new audio formats to something my receiver can handle. I use the SPDIF out but you can use the RCA out. You won't need the mod for stereo but I'll link it anyway.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/orig-development/netflix-amazon-5-1-hdmi-arc-optical-t3894442

Issue is the mod doesn't work with USB out, which I prefer for its simplicity and (maybe better?) dac. The first hdmi audio extractor I got wouldn't work right, I had to replug everything in every time I turned my projector on, this one has worked reliably every time

is this dac worth buying?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE

my vali is dac less and i just want something so i can use a shorter rca cable.
oh and where can i find short rca cables on amazon. like 6 inch cable, there gonna be stacked.

headphone : ath m50x, ath m50s (tobe sold?), he400i

or you can get a usb to toslink adapter...usb in, everything else out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE

Using this guy here, but it's got the chipset that does mono only on 6.0.1 so I'm looking for an alternative

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE/

LINK
This and you can choose any amp you want. I'm using it as a intermediate between my carputer & C-DSP. It works great! if you find an amp with digital in. you won't even go to analog till the amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478738920&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+dac

I picked one of these up a while back and its worked beautifully for me. USB input and just about every type of output you could want.

It may be ugly but its small enough that it can sit away from the computer back behind things. It has a big red power LED on it which could be annoying if you set it up right near your monitor but that's an issue easily solved with electrical tape.

Thats cheap enough I might just give that a shot. Thanks!
> https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453868389&sr=8-1&keywords=muse+dac

I'm looking for the cheapest way to connect my RCA speakers into my PC while still getting good quality. I know I can get the 3.5mm to RCA and just plug it into my desktop PC's single line out Jack (the integrated sound card doesn't have 5.1... Just three 3.5mm ports).

I was looking at getting a soundcard but it seems like a better idea would be to get USB DAC with a R and L RCA for my Swan M10 speakers.

I am considering:

Signstek USB DAC (http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_11?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1436249483&sr=1-11&keywords=usb+digital+audio+converter&pebp=1436249517158&perid=1T2Q01GX3ASW2DERY0PV) and the Behringer UCA222 (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1436603887&sr=1-1&keywords=behringer+uca&pebp=1436604042407&perid=1MZWF1NBM3SWS08ZG4HM) I 

I'll try to sketch it up:

Chromecast -- HDMI --> TV
PS3 -- HDMI --> TV
TiVo -- HDMI --> TV

TV -- Optical Toslink --> DAC
PC -- USB --> DAC

DAC -- RCA --> Preamp

This seems to have all needed inputs and outputs. Although I cannot testify to the quality.

There you can connect the TV(or PS4) to the optical, PC to the USB and if you want this to the coaxial so you could add the option of streaming via bluetooth from your phone/tablet.

Assuming your android tv box can use regular no-driver-required usb soundcards, your cheapest solutions are something like THIS or THIS. Obviously, I can't guarantee anything, but that type of device should be the simplest.

I think you want an external DAC: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/

Quick question, if I buy this for my JBL LSR305 speakers, what cables do I need to connect them? https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Would this or a similar device be an answer to my problem, without sacrificing sound quality?

Thanks for the follow-up

Then buy a $25 DAC which may be the level of a DAC that goes inside a Pioneer receiver anyways.

Or get a Chromecast Audio to make any receiver a "network" or "wifi" receiver.

I have the AS301 as well...great unit! Does your mobo have optical out? That's how I had my AS301 hooked up to my PC (with Asus Z170 board) when they shared the same room. Bypasses all sound processing on computer and instead lets the integrated amp do the signal processing and amplification. Much cleaner.

Reading comprehension would help me out. I just read your PC doesn't have optical out. No coax either?

You could try something like a USB to Coax/Optical converter for cheap, allowing your amp to still be the DAC.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499494302&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+to+coax+converter

I agree with /u/damo13579. If you search amazon for "usb dac", you'll find a number of options. For example, this costs just $6.50 and has a mic jack also. If you want something with a variety of outputs for receivers AND headphones, something like this is still very reasonably priced. Of course, you can spend $5000 on a usb dac if you want. If you are out of USB jacks, you'll probably want to get a USB hub or some kind of mac dock (like a thunderbolt dock) for your mac as well.

then in that case, all you need is a dac.

Here's a $6 one, Here's a $24 one and there's more in the saidebar or just search amazon for "USB dac"

I have several DACs including the Schiit Modi and Fiio D03 only does optical to analog,
from the PC you need USB to analog, maybe you meant the E10?

This one will keep you under $25 and gets the job done, but the USB DAC market is huge.

Recently I moved some things around in my house, and now have my pc in my room with my music setup. I recently purchased some Klipsch speakers for my turntable, and would like to also run my pc to the receiver as well.

The two options I have is to either purchase a 25ft aux cable and run it from the pc to the receiver (opposite side of room), or to purchase a USB>Optical DAC and run the optical cable I already have (because unfortunately i purchased a MOBO with no optical out -.-)

I am wondering if there are any pro's or con's to either. The aux cable is obviously cheaper than the DAC ($13 vs $25), but is there a reason to go with the DAC instead?

DAC I'm considering - https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497713480&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+optical+audio

It is a kludge but could use something like this with any NUC: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

Such device should be even simpler than DACs, because it doesn't even have to convert anything to analog. Here's an example (it's actually also a DAC), though I can't vouch for quality: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

In the adapter front, do you have this type of adapter for input 1 and input 2?

The output from the PC may not be enough drive for the mixer and the common ground connections will definitely not be at the same potential as the TV and this causes ground loop problems and the noise you hear.

I would suggest you buy a small USB to RCA/1/8 DAC, something like this that connects to the PC and has enough drive for the mixer. Goodness knows what output impedance the PC's headphone jack has, so using the DAC will overcome this limitation.

So the sequence for the PC : PC USB Port -> USB Cable A to B -> USB DAC -> Ground loop Isolator -> 1/8 cable Male/Male -> 1/8 F to 1/4 M TRS Adapter -> Mixer.

For the power supplies is not so simple. The Converter for the TV, Mixer and New DAC will have different power supplies, some 5V, 12V etc. Each is independent and 'floating', that's the problem. Ideally the -ve or 0V of each supply should be connected to mains ground and each other in a star pattern. That will guarantee no buzz, but in a consumer system, it's not so simple to achieve, since the connectors aren't readily accessible to add grounding wires.

An ifi Groundhog has enough connections to connect the mains ground to a common supply, an alternative without too much hacking and is reliable. It's also possible to use an additional Isolator in the TV line to the mixer. This should block 60Hz crud.

For now, try with the additional DAC from the PC. The DAC above is about the minimum type, you can spend $120k on DACs, so the scope is very broad.

There are several ways to find solutions to buzzing noises, each is just as complex to solve as each other, there's sometimes several steps to achieve quiet before finding the silver bullet.

Posted this in a separate thread, but got removed because I didn't read the sidebar. Derp. Anyway:

Hi there,

I have a good quality HiFi Digital Audio Tape player and wanted to transfer some of my DAT tapes to FLAC files on my hard drive. Unfortunately, my DAT player doesn't have any USB out. It has analog out, S/PDIF out, 3.5mm headphone out, and AES/EBU out. What would be the best way to get the DAT's onto my hard drive (under $50). I was looking at: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE , but wasn't sure.

Thanks!

Why not use a usb to optical adapter? THen any board should work fine. How about this one https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517776886&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+optical+audio

This might work.

The pictures look like it's all digital inputs, but the reviews say it's USB in and optical/coaxial out.

Not sure if this subreddit allows links but oh well.

The one I bought is this one https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=usb+dac&qid=1562188207&s=gateway&sr=8-4

It uses a generic pcm2704 chip which plenty of other cheap dacs use in a similar price range. You plug in the usb in one end and headphones in the little jack and it all works.

Hi, I'm still relatively new to audiophile equipment, and I wanted to buy a DAC for my headphones.

I wanted to buy one of these $20 DACs just so to see what the sound is like. I guess my budget would be ~$60, but my friend told me that at this price point, they're all basically the same.

I looked around and it was basically down to this FiiO D3 and this Signstek

Recommendations?

Could I use this to connect an AT-LP120 to the SP-DIF port on my Modi 3?

depending on the DAC, a 3.5mm to RCA may not be necessary. for instance, this can go from PC via USB to the speakers via RCA

According to the NwAvGuy, the Behringer UCA202 is a rather good DAC for the money.

If you're able to do some soldering, this Signstek USB DAC can be modified to be quite good, as described in this review.

Both of those are plug & play on Linux, no need for drivers.

So to avoid hissing, could I plug my computer into this via USB and then run balanced TLR male to XLR female cables from it into the speakers?