(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best speaker cables

> I think I would like them wall mounted but in the back 2 top corners of the room. That way they are minimal and out of the way. Is that possible? Is one way "better" than another?

Ideally, they are placed like this, with the tweeters of the speaker being 2ft-3ft above the listener. If you want to wall mount near the top corners of the rear wall, that's fine, just not ideal.

> I'll get a center channel. I hear it's better for dialogue?

90% of the time, the difference 2.0 vs 3.0 is inaudible if just 1-2 seats in front of the tv, if you have 4+ seating, then the people at the edge will hear a difference. Also, sometimes you get a movie or tv show that was mixed poorly, so the ability to alter the dialogue level is helpful. So I'll put together a L/C/R option.

Receiver: Denon X1300 normally $600 with usually going down to $500, but it just recently (last week) went down to $400. It features Audyssey's MultEQ XT and is also the lowest priced Denon model that will get Dolby Vision and HLG support. HLG is a royalty free HDR format and is very likely what the tv industry and cable companies will use.

Fronts: two options:

• Option #1: SVS Prime bookshelf + center for $850 (don't pay the extra $150 for the other color). Take note the price for bookshelves is for 1 speaker, so your order should be for 2 of them and 1 center.
  
  
• Option #2: HTD Level Three bookshelves + center for $565-$626 shipped. These are front ported, so they don't need to be >1ft away from a wall like the SVS. Also, I feel these will be better for home theater while the SVS is better for music, the flared ribbon tweeter of the HTD will spread the sound out more, where a soft dome like the SVS is very directional, so it won't be as good for a decent sized seating area.
  
  Subwoofer: will depend on which fronts you get.
  
  
• If Option #1: SVS PB-1000 for $500, if you want specs, here's the product page.
  
  
• If Option #2:
  
  • SVS PB-2000 for $800
    
  • Rythmik 15" servo for $1000, while it'll go over $2000 total if you get this, this is a monstrosity and is well worth it. Here is Zeos' review, if you have speakers (car, headphones, etc.) that have good bass, watch this part.
    
    Surrounds:
    
    
• Option A: Sound Appeal 6.5 for $70, also get the mounting bracket shown/labeled in the photos, it's like $15.
  
  
• Option B: Kanto Ben for $90-$100, they use a specific screw size and their mounting bracket is $20.
  
  Speaker Wire: Good speaker wire (<18 gauge and oxygen free) is cheap, here is 100ft.
  
  Banana plugs: While not needed, it makes things easier to connect the speaker wire to the speakers and receiver. I don't think the surrounds will be able to fit them when against the wall, so that is 8 pairs (5 pairs on receiver and 3 pairs for front speakers). For <$13, get two orders of these. If you don't know how they connect, like this.
  
  Subwoofer connection: You need an RCA cable, ideally one specified as a "subwoofer cable" as it is better shielded. Just search on Amazon and choose between the AmazonBasics and the MediaBridge ones and the length you want.

If you have only a very small number of motorized blinds (I'd say four or less), then Hunter Douglas provides good options to wire them up. You can either install battery packs that need to be serviced every few months, or you can plug in a small power supply. Each of the power supplies can drive up to two blinds. But the extension wires that come with it cannot be longer than about 15ft, and they are not rated for in-wall installation. So, you'll have to deal with them probably being visible.

If you have lots of blinds, the wires look ugly, and you really don't want to take up a gazillion outlets. We have dual stacked blinds (mesh & black-out) in a few places. There clearly aren't enough power outlets to handle that.

Hunter Douglas for better or for worse runs their blinds on 18V -- and their tech support claims that the blinds are pretty sensitive to voltage fluctuations. This has a couple of awkward consequences. 18V power supplies are really unusual. Laptop power supplies would be perfect, but they are all 19V, which according to Hunter Douglas is not acceptable. And other common voltages are 12V or 15V, which are both noticeably too little.

Furthermore, the blinds have relatively high peak currents. Hunter Douglas told me to roughly assume that each blind can require up to about 10W. Took me forever to find a place that sells an 18V/180W power supply, as Hunter Douglas doesn't offer any solution themselves.

Of course, that's the raw circuit board only. You still need an enclosure. I went with a 12V enclosure and modded it. The enclosure is a great size, and you can even reuse the metal shield for the power supply, if you are careful. It also conveniently already comes with all the fuses that you'll need anyway. So, that saves you quite some work. But you do need some tinkering experience to swap out the circuit boards. You probably also need to order a couple of Molex connectors and you'll need to do some crimping and some soldering.

The next problem that you'll run into is that the enclosure needs a cooling fan, but as far as I can tell it is impossible to find 18V fans. I ended up using an ATTiny85 and a MOSFET to PWM the 18V so that I could safely drive the existing fan (make sure to configure the micro-controller for FastPWM, or you'll have to deal with an ugly humming noise!). And while at it, I also added a temperature sensor, so the fan only turns on, when needed. You also need a small DC-DC converter to power the microcontroller. And if you don't already have a way to program Atmel chips, you'll need to buy a programmer. EBay has lots of cheap options, too. All of this definitely takes some amount of tinkering skills that not everybody will have, though.

Overall, building a proper power supply and distribution box cost me just over $200 in parts. Not too bad. But the amount of time spent getting it to work was ridiculous. Especially if you add up all the time researching which parts I needed to buy in the first place. I really don't understand why Hunter Douglas couldn't sell ready-made power supplies for installing multiple PowerView blinds. Even if they charged $500 for the ready-made box, that wouldn't be entirely unreasonable -- and that would be a huge mark up and make them quite some profits. In bulk, each supply should cost less than $100 to manufacture.

The next problem is finding appropriate cables. At those low voltages, currents are going to be high, and if you have anything more than trivially short runs, you'll encounter significant voltage drops. Since Hunter Douglas said that sticking as close as possible to 18V is crucial, you'll inevitably have to install beefier wires. Hunter Douglas recommends 14AWG for powering up to two blinds, or 16AWG when powering a single blind. I had good luck with buying Monoprice in-wall speaker cable for this purpose. Get the four-conductor version to minimize the number of cables that you need to string.

Ideally, you want to avoid splicing the cables. And in many cases, if you plan carefully, you'll be able to do that just fine. But sometimes, splices are simply unavoidable (for instance, when joining 16AWG cables to an 14AWG cable). I find WAGO connectors work really well for this purpose; unlike wirenuts, they can be used both with and without ferrules. And they work well for stranded wires, where wirenuts sometimes fail.

The blinds have barrel connectors, and Hunter Douglas suggests buying plugs with screw connectors. That is a good suggestion in principle, but I find it is impossible to securely fasten the speaker cables in the screw connectors, unless you use ferrules. And that means, you'll also need to buy a crimping tool. And for good measure, you should probably shrink wrap the entire contraption afterwards. High currents means you want secure connections.

Ideally, you should run all the cables inside the walls. But that's not always possible. If you can't, then you'll need to staple them instead. Make sure to use the right staples. I asked my electrician to help in order to meet my schedule; in hindsight, that didn't work out so well. He sent me his apprentice, who promptly proceeded to run each and every staple straight through the cable. Ouch. We had to redo all the wiring.

Now, my next project is thinking of a solution to hide the Hunter Douglas remote inside of a Decora wall switch. The remote is OK, but it looks a little cheesy when wall-mounted. As I said before, PowerView blinds are fine in principle and they are probably better than most competing products, but they do feel a little unfinished at this time. When they do work though, they are really convenient.

I drew on your map for the hell of it :P Probably not necessary to do that to give recommendations, but it was fun. Witness!

C9 is a great TV, call it $2k.

I would get two subs. A pair of VTF-2 is fine, but go VTF-3 if you don't want to wonder if you got enough sub. I marked the corners in the image with 1/2/3/4, I'd first try opposing corners and see how that sounds and/or measures. $1150 shipped for the pair of VTF-2, $1750 shipped for the pair of VTF-3. For $600 more you get a pair of 15" subs and no wondering. I say $1750 on the sub category.

I've drawn your setup from the top, so I'll go ahead and tell you what I drew for speakers - it's probably hard to tell from the black rectangles :)

The fronts are a pair of Paradigm Premier 200B bookshelfs on short stands, so they don't look stupid up on that shelf. You might not even need the stands, if the 24" from the shelf gets the tweeters to your ear level. $1k/pair, 20% off right now so $800.

The matching 600C center channel is a BEAST and is also on sale for $800, front stage total $1600. I just can't say enough good things about this lineup, if you have a dealer nearby, go give them a listen.

The surrounds I've shown on swivel mounts turned inwards to face the seating. You can also aim them a bit out into the room for a less direct sound, but I find with modern receivers and decoders, this isn't necessary. I'd suggest a pair of Paradigm Premier 100B, $640 on sale for these, on a set of the sturdy and affordable VideoSecu side clamping mounts, $25.

Tops, again, Paradigm, this time the P65-R in-ceiling speaker. I'm actually suggesting these based on personal use. They are the flattest, best measuring speakers in my system, and never mind the aimable tweeters - these speakers are designed for good, even dispersion, and it's amazing how well they work. Aimable tweeters are there to make up for dispersion and placement shortcomings, and you will have neither if you go with the P-65Rs. Don't pay retail for these, ask the dealer for at least 20% off since you're buying a full set of speakers. If they say no, find another dealer. It's a poorly kept secret that Paradigm very seldom sells for full MSRP. Call it $500 for the pair.

For the receiver, I know people like to suggest buying a refurb from accessories4less, but I've heard too many horror stories about broken equipment and poor support. I'd suggest the X3500h from Crutchfield, a rock solid company that will have your back if anything is wrong with the gear. The receiver itself has plenty of power for my recommended speakers, and has the best version of Audyssey, XT32 - important to get the most out of your subwoofers in particular. The X2600h you mentioned only has Audyssey XT, which is rather inferior to XT 32. $600.

Totals, then, are:

65" LG C9 TV $2000

Paradigm Premier 200B Front L/R $800

Paradigm Premier 600C Center $800

Paradigm Premier 100B Surrounds $665 with mounts

Paradigm Pro P65-R Tops $500

2x Hsu VTF-3 Mk5 Subs $1750

Denon X3500h Receiver $600

Total before cables $7115

($10 subwoofer cables and any decent copper 14 gauge speaker wire are fine)

Now, all that said, I would strongly consider the 77 inch LG C9. You'd still be just under budget, and sitting as far as you will be, the extra size will really help the system come together. The only question is if you have enough vertical space over the center channel speaker. If you do, grab the 77" and don't look back :)

I also disagree on tops/Atmos not being useful if you only do sports and TV. Asides from native Atmos content, receiver upmixing with the Dolby Surround upmixer is really quite awesome. It adds an immersiveness to the sound that you just can't get with a 2d audio setup.

Can you run it under a rug? They have some speaker wire that is designed to lay flat.


Monoprice Planate Series 16 Gauge AWG Pure Copper Flat Speaker Wire/Cable - 100ft CL2 in Wall Rated, Jacketed in PVC Material for Home Theater, Car Audio and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WITWKNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tVfyCbRP18E7F

As far as the sound... in every 5.1 system I’ve ever had, the rears were behind me. Like you, the rears never did much but ambient noise, bullets, prop wash. I finally purchased some def tech bipoles (due to having all def tech speakers AND the fact that my left surround is very close to the couch. The first movie I popped in was ready player one and the race scene was amazing. Before the rears almost seemed like they were mono and I’d have concentrate to hear the effects. Now the entire experience is so much more dynamic. There are more details and the bubble of sound is so much more convincing. And Now when you hear the bullets pass by you can localize it so much better. Atoms helps too (I have a 5.1.2 system), I would definitely get speakers for the ceiling while it’s in the construction phase. I purchased a. Inexpensive set of silver ticket 8” in ceilings and they do a great job for atmos. Another thing I’d pre-wire is bass shaker wires. This was a very inexpensive investment that nets a very nice return.


Edit: just took another look at the layout. Wire management is going to be a challenge. You could always rent a wet saw and cut a channel into the concrete. I’m not sure how crazy you want to get.

Generally, for a first time setup I would prioritize the receiver/matching left/center/right, and leave the sub for a later addition. Reason being that you want your 'front stage' L/C/R to be matched across the same line of speakers if at all possible. You do not need to match your surrounds or subwoofer. Different brand speakers for surrounds are perfectly fine, as they will be volume leveled and tone corrected as much as possible via room correction. Your receiver is the brains of the operation and should be prioritized above the sub as well.

Speakers: I've posted it a couple times in this sub, but at $199, I have trouble recommending anything but this Jamo 5.0 HT bundle. These will perform much better than the usual candidates in your price range from polk, sony, pioneer, or micca. They're simply older models and being clearance'd out for newer ones.

Receiver: Denon S730h - $249. The best feature/cost receiver you can buy in your price range. Going to models below the S7xx sacrifices room correction and component quality, but going above buys features not usually warranted for a first receiver. You can view differences between each model here.

Do not get a cheaper receiver that looks like it has more features on paper.

Wire: 100ft 14AWG and if you want banana plugs.

This leaves you at roughly $500 + tax. Save the extra hundred to go towards your sub.

Sub: buy the biggest one you can in your budget, lots of sales to go around. Infinity Reference R12 was on sale for $150 last week and BIC F12 has been under $200. I'm not very knowledgeable on subs, but I would definitely recommend getting one - just afterwards so you can buy a good one and not skimp.

If you're going to be hooking this to a TV then I would recommend getting an AVR and pairing that with some speakers and a sub. I would avoid powered speakers as they leave you little to no room for upgrades.

If you have $450 here is what I would do.

• AVR - Yamaha RX-V381 refurb $200 - Entry level AVR with bluetooth and four 4k capable HDMI ports.
  
  
• SUB - Dayton Sub 1000 $120 and a sub cable$15 - This is a pretty capable sub for the money it's good for music and HT use in a smaller room. If you find you need more bass you can upgrade to a larger unit or get a second one. You can also get the larger Sub 1200 for $135 on sale. This will take you to the top of your budget but the bigger the sub normally the better.
  
  
• Speakers - Micca MB42X $90 - The old standby of entry level speakers. I think they actually do very well when paired with a sub to handle the low end. They go low enough to cross comfortably with a sub and with the room correction they should sound great.
  
  
• MISC - don't forget speaker wire$9, HDMI cables$10 and an optical cable $7 for the TV if you're not using a cable box. Consider speaker stands $40 for the speakers in the future. This will allow you to get them to the proper height and move them out from the TV.

Yeah great choice.

As far as cables, it really depends on how you have it set up.

The ideal scenario would be (for me at least):

• All video sources into back of receiver with HDMI cables (premium high-speed if it's a 4K source)
  
  
• One HDMI cable from receiver to HDMI 2 in TV (that's the ARC one). This allows you to use the TV apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to take advantage of the sweet, sweet Dolby Vision.
  
  
• Speaker wiring. Depends on how you want to wire it. I did in wall wiring so I used CL2 rated wire for the in-wall runs which terminated at a banana plug wall plate behind the receiver and a banana clip wall plate behind F/L and F/R. Then I used clear 14 AWG speaker wire from the wallplates to the receiver and speakers. I went straight from the receiver to the center channel (which you don't have yet). I also pre-wired for surrounds and Atmos but haven't gotten the components (Atmos at least) yet.
  
  
• Speaker wire termination.
  The speakers and receiver have the ability to connect to bare speaker wire but I went the route of using these banana clips for a cleaner look.
  
  Really it all depends on your set-up I guess. I can post some pics of mine to help clarify stuff as well.

Hey /u/ZeosPantera,

I first wanted to say you are the fucking man. This subreddit has been so incredibly helpful in figuring out my audio system. Additionally, I was wondering if you could provide your expertise for me.

My fraternity is currently getting our house back in a few weeks, and we have money to spend on home improvement (in this case, an audio system for the large common room). I'm looking for a system that can double as both a home theater sound system as well as speakers for a large, loud party. I assembled a list of components and was hoping you can recommend any changes. This is the list so far:

Receiver - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7X2OV2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Center - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A8Y3E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Front speakers (tower) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISZEV2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Rear speakers - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRMKJTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WPEQCN6WJKZG

Subwoofer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A8Y5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

These are the ones you listed as being loud enough to play music on as well. Will these products fit the bill for my needs (home theater, large frat party)? Also, these extras to set up the system:

Banana plugs - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090CVJZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

RCA cable - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVX9FO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Copper wire - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APEG9MO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Is there anything I'm missing in order to set up the system? Thank you so much!!

Adding the center gives a 3.1 setup, but that sounds like a great start.

I have never used Zone 2, but you would want a nice set of bookshelf speakers that would be 2.0 setup in another room.

I've only used 16 gauge.

100 ft 16 gauge wire - $25

Wire Stripper $7

Optional: Banana Plugs $18

Subwoofer Cable $10

Noctua NF-R8

Neutrik SpeakOn NL4 (4 Conductor Twist Lock.) (These connectors goes on the 10 or 12 awg speaker cable for your subwoofer speaker cable. One plugs directly into the NX3000/NX6000 and the other plugs into your subwoofer. You will only need two conductor for the speaker cable but you will need to BRIDGE the output of a channel for your subwoofer. There will be four connection points within the connector. +1/-1 and +2/-2. You will want to use Output A of Channel 1 with the connector wired in +1 / +2 to obtain output from both Output A and B. That's super easy to follow, right? Heh.)

Neutrik SpeakOn NL4 Speaker Jack (4 Conductor Twist Lock you install somewhere on your subwoofer enclosure)

RCA Stereo (Pair) to 1/4" TS (Tip-Sleeve) Jack (For AVR LFE output to NX6000 channel inputs)

Hurry up and finish that build! ;-)

Check out Audio-Technica ATH-M20x seems the best you can get in mid-range from the reviews.


You can check out Sony products as well. They tend to last longer, unless you're going for their basic models. Cousin has [Sony MDR-XB450] (https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00NFJGUPW/ref=dp_cerb_3). Running fine since almost two years, tbf I found it better than Sennhieser HD 202.



Sony Extra Bass MDR-XB550AP looks good as well.

PS: Non-affiliated links.

Amplifier

PA horn

CB to Amp cable (standard 3.5mm aux cable)

You’ll need speaker wire to run from the Amp to the PA and you’ll need to power the amp somehow. They sell an AC to DC power supply but if installing in a 12VDC vehicle you can run 12v to it directly but you’ll just need the barrel connector / plug end. You can buy those on amazon as well or if you have access to electronic scraps or spare laptop power supplies you can hack one off there and wire it to your system.

To use the speaker without the amplifier, not sure how loud it would be, probably not very because the CB can only put out like 12-15 Watts on PA, you can use this cable to hook the speaker to the CB

Hope that helps.

Purchase List:

Optoma HD27 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector - amazing image quality and extremely bright - can almost watch the screen with all the lights on: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD27-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01JR7G672

Homegear 100” HD Motorized 16:9 Projector Screen W/ Remote Control - works very well, packaged and arrived in great condition: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J22TNRI

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

2 ELAC B6 Debut Series 6.5" L & R Speakers by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQ06

1 ELAC C5 Debut Series 5.25" Center Speaker by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQWE

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

Monoprice Affinity Premium 14AWG Braided Speaker Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YN6G9G

VideoSecu 2 Heavy duty PA DJ Club Adjustable Height Satellite Speaker Stand Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VRREPG

Projector Mount - VideoSecu LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDC0K2

2x LED Lighting for Bar/Couch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V27VX7E

I like the versatility of the MB's better (IE you don't need 110v power near them and you can get any amp you want or move them to a surround sound, etc)

The PB's have a locked in amp. You can upgrade the power supply if you want to a 24v for more power.

The SA60 is not overkill for any speaker. It is top of the tiny amp line in tech and build quality. Besides it will likely last a few years and your next set of speakers may want that extra power.

You just want to concern yourself with 16ga wire at least and if you want, Oxygen Free copper stuff so it doesn't turn green when you leave it exposed for a while. This is the good stuff and this is the cheap aluminum stuff.

Howdy gents,

I have an ML Grotto (good pics of the back plate [here](https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649179404-martin-logan-grotto-subwoofer/images/912707/) I purchased second hand for an office setup, and I'm powering it and some ML LX16 bookshelf speakers using a small [Dayton 2.1 amp](https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-21bt2-100w-21-class-d-bluetooth-amplifier-with-sub-frequency-adjustment--300-3831). The amp has speaker posts for the subwoofer output and no RCA LFE output. What would be the best way to connect the sub to the amp?

I was thinking about ordering [these](https://www.amazon.com/MOBOREST-Terminal-connectors-Solderless-Male-2pack/dp/B07HBJMHVV/ref=sr_1_6?crid=32F9HY7D2MPPQ&keywords=rca+plug+to+speaker+wire&qid=1556468793&s=electronics&sprefix=rca+plug+,electronics,170&sr=1-6) to use with speaker wire. The RCAs would go into the left and right sub out terminals and I'd use banana plugs for the amp. But I was also thinking about getting [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1URD8/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B07L85W6ST?th=1&psc=1), dual banana plugs for the amp to a single RCA, which I would plug into the LFE output on the sub.

Would both of these options work? Which one sounds like the better idea? I've got banana plugs and speaker wire left over from my existing setup.

Monoprice speaker wire was always the go to, but it has gone up in price. $54 for 100 feet, I paid $41 a year ago for the same.

Audioholics recommends Kabeldirekt speaker wire. Doesn't appear to be available in 12 gauge wire, but 14 gauge would be fine. I had bought 12 gauge myself because I had to run about 30 feet of wire for my rear speakers.

These Micca Cables are very nice as well.

Expensive speaker wire is snake oil. If your wires are exposed, you may simply want fancy looking wires, but it wont change the sound quality.

You can get Speakon to Banana Plug Cables -

https://www.amazon.com/MCSPROAUDIO-Gauge-Speaker-Cables-CABLE/dp/B01FSVOP5Q/](https://www.amazon.com/MCSPROAUDIO-Gauge-Speaker-Cables-CABLE/dp/B01FSVOP5Q/

You can also find the internal wiring of a Speakon Connector on Google Images and make your own cables -

https://www.edis-audio-visual.com/Wiki/images/c/c5/Tg-output-typical1.gif

Most Speakon connectors have Four Contacts, so they can accept two wire pairs, but you only need to use the default two connections for a single wire pair.

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Speaker-compatible-Neutrik/dp/B00LW8VLRU/

Here are some easy to install Sewell Banana Plugs that don't require any tools to install -

https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-SW-29863-12-Deadbolt-12-Pair/dp/B007QUYQSY/

Mediabridge are also good Banana Plugs -

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9BJU/

Depending on the distance, any 14ga or 12ga Copper speaker cable will be fine -

https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Speaker-Wire-Audiophiles-Systems/dp/B07BBRQ5YT/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Access-Gauge-Conductor-Speaker/dp/B001WHQ9C8/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-113716-Conductor-CMP-Rated-Speaker/dp/B017SDE22S/

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-14AWG-2-Conductor-Speaker-White/dp/B00N18VBSI/

That's great, thanks for the tip. Do you think this one is acceptable? http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-100-Feet-4-Conductor-High-Purity-Oxygen-Free/dp/B003KPYRJM/

Damaged equipment question.

Here is the equipment I was using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z2H07K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GZWKU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/3500--hartke-ha3500c-350-watt-tube-preamp-bass-head

The cabinet got really screwed up, and now makes really shitty noises at even relatively low levels.

Question is why? Was there something improper about using this equipment together?

My friends and I were jamming. He was playing bass, and was playing it too loud. Eventually it started making shitty noises while he was playing. Just played it again - and the cabinet is shot.

So, in my opinion my friend screwed the cabinet up. Its my understanding that no matter what equipment you are playing if you play it too loud it can screw it up - i.e, don't just assume that if your cabinets specs should be able to handle the amp that doesn't mean you can play it as loud as you want. Similar to if you you are listening to a stereo you will screw it up if you play it too loud.

Unless I am missing something and the equipment I had should never be played together. Our other friend we were jamming with was of the opinion that my friend isn't responsible at all - since in his opinion I must have had equipment that should not be used together.

I did research before buying this equipment and I thought that each component would work safely with the others.

Any input would be appreciated.

How do I know what gauge to get? I this sufficient Wire, Bananas and Wire Cutters. I think I will skip the DAC for now and see how everything sounds? As I can always buy one later and add it in but how do I know if I need one?
Edit: Thank you for the help!

I just got back from vacation and was about to order the SA60 + MB42x but thought of another question after re-reading your post:

• Should I consider buying 14AWG or 12AWG wire instead of 16AWG?
  
  Also, if you have a referral link for this, I'll gladly use it. Your guides, reviews, and advice are all much appreciated!

i paired this wire with these plugs. work great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSZAYF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFC9BJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

also have a set of these for my living room. also very nice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YN6G9G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

only 10.5 foot W but 20 Long ? Weird..........

SetUp How? Using Full 20" or where will seating be? at 16' and 20' (Against back Wall) or Closer like 10' then 14-15'?

Atmos or just 7.2 surround? I recently did a Budget 5.2.2 Atmos system and Really Dig it. 15' W x 18' L room

https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/cwv89b/budget_atmos_1k_all_micca_522_atmos_system/

My 7.2 suggestions : (Much Like Sharkaminos)

Sony 900f 75"

Onkyo 9.2 or Integra 9.2

R /C /L - DCM Towers or DCM 3 way Towers , DCM Center

Subs : x's 2 PSW312

Surrounds x's 2 Micca MB42X

Surround speaker brackets these or these

X Box

Surround speaker wire

R / C/ L speaker wire: this or this

Sub cables x's 2

HDMIs

TV Mount

Optional Atmos speakers X's 2 or B.A Atmos x's 2

Optional - AV Cart/ cabinet/ shelving

.

Are the Folors carpeted? I'd get system and furniture in and see how Sounds before worrying about room treatments.......... you can Hang Heavy curtains along side Walls like a theater- if Needed

Thanks for the reply, and the suggestion on speaker wire. I've already got this in my shopping cart, which looks like the same stuff, just more of it. My contractor is a big stickler for the rules and keeping everything up to code so I've got the speaker wire and the hdmi cable rated for behind wall use. (I couldn't really find a subwoofer cable that specifically says its for behind the wall, though.)

I'll have to look into the acoustically transparent screen. That might change my speaker choice. Thanks again!

Under ~$100-$150, headphones.

If you absolutely MUST have speakers with a low budget such as that, don't fall for the computer speakers trap. Just like building a PC, picking separate components gives you MASSIVELY better quality for the price, and better future upgrade options. I'd probably get these Micca club 3 or if you can the MB42x
with this amp, some speaker wire and potentially a 3.5mm to RCA cable such as this if you don't already have one . I'm assuming you already have a wire stripper, or buy one.

Is this worth all the extra effort? Hell yes it is. You're on BaPC after all.

Not the most elegant solution but something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KK-R1-B2-D1-Banana%EF%BC%884banana%EF%BC%89-1-64Foot-Pair-3-28Foot/dp/B01MQ1URD8

These would be some amps around your price range, RCA in with Speaker out. That may be the better route.

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ

Unless space is an issue I would spend the extra 20$ on the Dayton SUB-1000 myself. Its a much better sub.

As far as connections go you will need a cable from your source (phone/PC/other) so if you have a digital out on your PC you can run a ToSLink cable from your PC to the SMSL. The Q5 has a subwoofer out which is handy so you would need a single RCA or "Y" adapter for that. And then just speaker cables. I would get predone ones with banana plugs myself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CYGMCGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is what Im currently using and both work great.

I'd rather pay a little more for simplicity and ease of set up personally. I guess I'd need 2 of those cables then, correct? 1 for each speaker? I think I'll be good to go after this!

EDIT: These should be fine, right? $2 less, and are 10-feet long in case I need longer in the future.

It's an amplifier board.

Specifically this amp board

Transducers

Power supply for amp/transducers

There's a dedicated PCI sound card in my PC. I'm using SimVibe software(must have) to drive the amp/transducers. Any PCI 5.1 sound card will work.

My PC is on the other side of the room so I'm using these y cable extensions. And this speaker wire

This is the sound card I bought, but i would buy a better one if I had to do it again.

I have porch speakers hooked up to a Sony receiver & set them up as Zone 2. I can have them play what the inside speakers are playing, or have zone 2 play something else. I did run speaker wire through my wall & attic to set it up, these made it easier/cleaner:

Monoprice Access Series 18 Gauge AWG CL2 Rated 4 Conductor Speaker Wire/Cable - 100ft Fire Safety in Wall Rated, Jacketed in White PVC Material 99.9% Oxygen-Free Pure Bare Copper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KPYRJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fYCnDbY5QAWKY

Monoprice 103326 Banana Binding Post Two-Piece Inset Coupler Wall Plate for 4 Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TKAE7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OYCnDb3DWGTTY

(2 channels are for zone 2 & 2 channels are surround rear 5.1)

You will just need basic speaker wire. Something like this should work just fine: https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY

If going in-wall, you will need CL2: https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Oxygen/dp/B0758CSSF2

If you have electrical wire laying around at home, that will work just fine too. Just use something thicker than 18AWG.

Yes you should be able to wall-mount the speakers - no problem. Try to keep the tweeters at ear level when seated (~40" off the floor). Surrounds can go a bit higher - I wouldn't exceed 1 foot above ear level though. Center channel will likely go on a console or mounted above the TV I assume - just angle it slightly so it fires at ears.

What you described is exactly how it should be connected.

EDIT: You will also need an RCA cable for the subwoofer - https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-25-Feet/dp/B01D5H8HR2/

This may be a good read for you: https://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/basic-home-theater-setup-guide

Sony MDR-XB450 On-Ear EXTRA BASS Headphones (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00NFJGUPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ohcjDbYG5FECP

I have used this headphone for two years. Sound is good, quality is good.

I got this and it works fine. https://smile.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Speaker-Cable-12AWG/dp/B004Z2H07K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519941297&sr=8-2&keywords=guitar+speaker+cable

Don't splurge on some expensive or super thick cable. As soon as the signal hits the jack in the back of your speaker cab, it's going to travel through a very light gauge wired to the actual speaker.

Can someone please tell me if this is everything I need? 5.1 setup- JBL Studio 230 speakers front, Fluance XLBP rear, Bic Acoustech PL-200 subwoofer.

Receiver Denon AVR-S500BT- https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avrs500bt

Speaker wire- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWS7HY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

One of these subwoofer cables? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVX9FO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB&psc=1

And then what do I need to connect the receiver to a computer? So everything can be played off the computer, and then computer connected to a TV.

>Also it came with no cables to connect each speaker to each other and to he receiver. Any specific reason why that is?

Normally only home theater in a box units that come packaged with a BluRay/DVD/receiver come with wire. Even then its crap.

>..what is a good receiver for my surround sound set and what kind of cabling do I need exactly?

You can probably get something like the Denon 1613 should power them fine and has a few cool features if you connect it to your network. As far as the cables go: some 16 gauge speaker wire will do the trick for the speakers. The subwoofer will need a subwoofer RCA cable.

Audio noob here, I am using 5 year old Logitech Z906 speakers connected to my PC with analog connection. (Please don't comment on my choice of speakers, if I could buy again I would definitely have not gotten them). I am having very frequent issues where the speakers "snap" or crackle and don't play sounds properly. I have already clean reinstalled drivers, checked the wire connections and reinserted them, and messed with a bunch of windows settings. I have read that possibly new speakers wires like this could help. Any advice?

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-14AWG-2-Conductor-Speaker-White/dp/B0193RRMQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=2TS7EUFLVQHUM&keywords=mediabridge+14awg+2-conductor+speaker+wire&qid=1556846643&s=gateway&sprefix=mediabridge+14&sr=8-4

I have 2 slightly longer runs through walls/ceilings for surrounds and the price wasn't too much higher than 16g so I bought one longer spool of 14g instead of 14 gauge and 16 gauge 100 ft spools. Seems to be all you need for passive speakers with some snake oily buzzwords, oxygen free, 14awg copper, higher strand count, rated for in wall use, lab tested, and 200 feet all for $64.

For any normal size room 16g should be just fine.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2684&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtr_mBRDeARIsALfBZA7ozYLRCjYokVwlz6vUrpxuNM1b3ixqAgymdykdsddIqMRPzMrEREAaAgMAEALw_wcB

Subwoofer cable. Get whatever length you think you'll need.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

HDMI cable. Only thing to really part attention to would be certified premium rating. Can buy for 60 cents cheaper directly through monoprice but they're usually out of stock compared to Amazon.

• Buy techflex
  
• Buy oxygen free copper wire
  
• Buy some banana plugs
  
• Buy heat shrink tubing
  
  There ya go. Make your own or spend lots and lots of money.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-12AWG-Ultra-Speaker-Cable/dp/B01CYGMCGC/
These are great \^

Get a pair of bookshelves and a Chromecast Audio for each room. The music playing can be synced with Chromecast. You could probably do 3 rooms with $500.

Here's an example of what you could get:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/

3 x https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481779004&sr=1-1&keywords=mb42x

3 x http://www.bestbuy.com/site/google-chromecast-audio-black/4532100.p?skuId=4532100

1 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWS7HY6/?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3A/?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Went a bit over budget, oh well.

One thing I recently learned when wiring my place for 5.1 surround was not to use standard speaker wire in the walls and ceiling. To comply with building code you need to use CL2 or CL3 wire such as this which is what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0193RRMQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It probably doesn't really matter but it's always better to do it right.

well pre terminated, and one cable, no you really cant to better, but if you need more cables, and you can terminate yourself, you can do a lot better for the price.

for example, buying these two:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AH0TRTW/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWS7HY6/

will cost you $26 and you can make 5, 10ft lengths of cable, bringing the average price down to $5.20 per 10ft terminated length of cable.

Generalizing much?


AmazonBasics 14-Gauge Audio Speaker Wire Cable - 99.9% Oxygen-Free Copper, 100 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758CSSF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i.AYDbB43PA09


AmazonBasics Speaker Cable Wire with Gold-Plated Banana Tip Plugs - CL2 - 99.9%
Oxygen Free - 3-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDCGP9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L.AYDbH683HDC

Mediabridge 14AWG 2-Conductor Speaker Wire (200 Feet, White) - 99.9% Oxygen Free Copper – ETL Listed & CL2 Rated for In-Wall Use (Part# SW-14X2-200-WH ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0193RRMQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QuVTzbWM9T1CK

If you're going with stuff in walls, you might want to get something coated a bit better than just the cheapest stuff.

I use this AmazonBasics for pretty much everything, but I'd use this one instead if it's going in a wall.

First Google result: https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Speaker-Cable-12AWG/dp/B004Z2H07K

I don't think you're going to find a right angle cable without making your own. Right angle instrument cables are all over because they impact your playing/comfort. Speaker cables on the other hand are off in the back and stay untouched, and unseen.

I vote for OPTION 2. Seems like you get more for your money with the sub. You could trim a bit off these totals by going with less expensive cables. 14-Gauge, 99.9% Oxygen-Free Copper + Banana Plugs = $37.72

$170+ refurbished receivers with Chromecast built in + either MB42X ($80) and MB42X-C ($70) or Sony SSCS5 ($150) or Micca RB42 ($130) or Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 or Polk S20 or Q Acoustic 3020 or more but those are just a few stand outs at their price point. Then you'll need speaker cable and assuming your not adventurous enough to strip wire and put banana plugs on yourself you can buy them pre made for pretty reasonable price. And yes this doesn't have Android TV but do you really want to replace your whole sound bar when Google kills Android TV for Google TV in a few years? (Because Google loves killing products people love)

Yep, there's even wire specifically designed for it:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Planate-Gauge-Copper-Speaker/dp/B00WITWKNG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=flat+speaker+wire&qid=1572009513&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Those are called spring clips.

You could buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B001JT33F0

You'll also need wire strippers.

If you're hooking cheapo computer speakers to a proper amp/receiver then you might blow them as they probably aren't designed to take very much power.

I'd get some purty ones like this :)

https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-113913-Affinity-Premium-Braided/dp/B015YN6G9G/ref=pd_sbs_23_2/138-5214543-9122431?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015YN6G9G&pd_rd_r=83337871-6b8d-11e9-b12e-253105b62179&pd_rd_w=zbeMy&pd_rd_wg=ywU3T&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=KV4279QXVCYB9NNXQQHZ&psc=1&refRID=KV4279QXVCYB9NNXQQHZ

No that is definitely not right and it's a 1/4" plug.

Speaker cables are typically 12 gauge because you're pushing voltage.

That said, a 1' cable is going to have to be a custom thing.

You could always buy a 3' cable at a GC or local shop and ask the tech there to cut it down for you.

If you can solder, it's an easy DIY job.

Sure do.

Terminal Blocks

4 Conductor Wire

You'll need a couple of things.

Get and plug one of these splitters into your MacBook Pro or iPhone, which ever one you are using at the time.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/35mm-stereo-to-2-mono-splitter-l39ba

Also; get two of these, one for each speaker.

http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-Replacement-Speaker-3-5mm-Stripped/dp/B001JT33F0/ref=pd_sim_23_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41FJjtNq8YL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Z8WC5YTNYAK763S462S

Plug their jack ends into the splitter ends above, then run the bare wires from each one to one of your speakers, making sure the wire with the stripe on each line gets connected to the red terminal on the back of each speaker and the other wire to the black terminal.

I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/

1. $80: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRN8Q9V
   
   
2. $139: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNQH9R1
   
   
3. $99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G7SCMVI
   
   
4. $7: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y
   
   
5. $11: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746BM8ZR
   
   
6. $32: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WITWKNG
   
   A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
   
   The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.

Honestly just buy some speaker wire and cut it to whatever length you want anything conductive works as an antenna it's when you want to transmit that the wire matters if you got this instead you could pull the wire apart and have 200 feet of wire that can be cut to however long you want

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-100ft-Speaker-Cable/dp/B078YYLT5T

I hesitated with just taping a white and flat speaker cable, like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Planate-Gauge-Copper-Speaker/dp/B00WITWKNG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TCDT2FB6QVNY57QRXGXJ), but I already had the cables, so ikea won.

Here's the wiring I was going to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APEG9MO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504793916&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=16+gauge+copper+speaker+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51myMBMoTOL&ref=plSrch

Both are 1/4" (not Speakon) so I'd say one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Speaker-4-Inch-Professional/dp/B004Z2H07K/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-SKJ-203-Neutrik-Speaker-Cable/dp/B000068NZN/

this is good speaker wire.

http://www.amazon.com/CNE62287-100-Feet-Enhanced-Oxygen-Free-Speaker/dp/B00APEG9MO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408190791&sr=1-1&keywords=100-Feet+16AWG

You need Neutrik connectors for the amp:

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Speaker-compatible-Neutrik/dp/B00LW8VLRU/

The 3000dsp has XLR inputs and speakon outputs. This is what I used to connect my avr to my 3000dsp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UJH0XU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Use these to go from the 3000dsp output to the sub using regular speaker wire: GLS Audio Speaker Plug Twist Lock 4 Pole Speaker Plug compatible with Neutrik Speakon NL4FC, NL4FX, NLT4X, NL2FC - 4 PACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LW8VLRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GNOXBbTJ0JTF9

Use these to connect the speakon nl4 to your vbss: GLS Audio Speaker Jack Twist Lock 4 Pole Round - Compatible with Neutrik Speakon NL4MP, NL4MPR, NL4FC, NL4FX, NLT4X, NL4 Series, NL2FC, NL2, Speak-On - 4 PACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQJYEJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GOOXBbZYW266Z

Source: I am running 2x vbss off an inuke 3000dsp

So would either of these do?

https://www.amazon.com.au/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-2-08/dp/B01D5H8YNO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=amazon+basics+14+gauge&qid=1574064603&sr=8-5


https://www.amazon.com.au/AmazonBasics-Speaker-Wire-14-Gauge-Oxygen-Free/dp/B0758CSSF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=amazon+basics+14+gauge&qid=1574064639&sr=8-1

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ameriwood-Home-Carson-TV-Stand-for-TVs-up-to-65-Golden-Oak/937093507

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758CSSF2/ref=twister_B076H7HV8B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.idjnow.com/26-high-studio-monitor-speaker-stand-set.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwq4fsBRBnEiwANTahcM9BgjfW0PQne1oOoQzOVGafHG36gn9EF1p1HRG6QD371Gd0TafhPhoCblQQAvD_BwE

Regular speaker wire.

Hey there sorry for late reply I was sleeping here's the link https://www.amazon.in/Sony-MDR-XB450-EXTRA-Headphones-Black/dp/B00NFJGUPW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=sony+mdr+xb450&qid=1554250692&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Is there any difference apart from physical size between a 16 and 18 gauge speaker cable? I just wanna space my klipsch r15pm's further apart so would this do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Oxygen-Free-Conductor-Speaker/dp/B00BWS7HY6/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1540254801&sr=8-18&keywords=speaker+wire+50ft+16+gauge

That turntable already has speakers built-in. If you're going for "cheap. Not looking for great sound." why don't you just use those? Are you looking for an upgrade from the built-ins?

u/stolen_me_mes isn't correct. You don't need a preamp: the record player has a 3.5mm output, which by convention should already be "line level." Pre-amps take the very quiet "Phono" output of normal turntables and amplify it to "Line Level." Amplifiers expect a "Line Level" input. In your case the turntable already should output Line level.

You do need an amplifier to power your speakers. This one has a 3.5mm input that you can connect directly to your turntable with a headphone cable.

You will need 2 sets of speaker cables: one for each speaker. Get a cable that's long enough to go between your amplifier and the speakers. You can buy the cheapest cable available, as long as it's long enough.

10 ft monoprice

15 ft. Note: You will need to buy two of this particular item for your speakers. They are a bit deceptive in how they describe their product.