(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best stockpots

Don't waste $100 on a knife at this point. After you've been cooking for awhile, and if you really really really want to become a knife geek, then you'll have a better idea of what you want in a knife.

My only knife for about 30 years has been the Dexter chinese cleaver - a misnomer if there ever was one. It's not really a cleaver, it's known as a "vegetable knife" in China.

You can get it on Amazon for about $36

http://www.amazon.com/Dexter-Russell-Dexter-Russell-Chinese-Cleaver/dp/B0015DG3FM/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369673283&sr=1-1&keywords=dexter+russell+chinese+cleaver

Or you can save even more and get a cheap Chinese knife from the WokShop - some people swear these are great knives despite being under $10. My worry buying something like this sight unseen is you can't tell if it's a nice thin blade appropriate for use as a general purpose knife or a heavy thick blade that's not much good for anything. But I've heard people say they like them, so maybe it'd be worth trying. They are carbon steel so do not ever leave them wet. No matter what you do they will stain, so if that bothers you, stick with the Dexter Russell - it's high carbon stainless.

http://www.wokshop.com/HTML/products/cleavers/carbon-steel-cleaver.html

I know, it doesn't match our western idea of what a knife should be, but it is the easiest and safest to use knife I've ever used. Google Martin Yan on youtube and watch how he uses it for everything from boning chicken to peeling garlic.

If you are more comfortable with European type knives, try a Victorinox/Forschner. They're fairly cheap but pretty good knives. For example:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=victorinox+forschner+knife

I use this sharpener:

http://www.amazon.com/Kyocera-Steel-Knife-Sharpener-Red/dp/B001P81EVU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369669489&sr=8-2&keywords=kyocera+knife+sharpener

Which for some reason has become godawful expensive on Amazon - no longer eligible for free shipping adds $7 to the price - you might do better finding it someplace else.

Knife geeks will shudder and scream at the above but unless you're interested in buying a $200 knife sharpening set and a multi-hundred $ knife, simple and easy to use is best. You can always step up your game later, if you want to. You could try crock sticks also - I had a set but I didn't really like using them. Knife geeks don't cry quite so hard when they see someone sharpening their (affordable) knives on crock sticks.

The important difference between really cheap pans and better pans is weight. A thin metal fry pan just doesn't cook as well as a heavier one. The heavier pans hold heat better, they conduct heat better, and they are less likely to develop hot spots. I'm afraid my favorite pans are REALLY expensive but you might want to look for a lifetime guarantee nonstick fry/saute pan (skillet) or 2, at least 12". If you have an 8" saute pan, a 12" saute or fry pan, and a 14" fry pan (the difference is the fry pans have higher sides) you'll have all your bases covered.

You might want to consider a wok - carbon steel give the best price/performance ratio, check out the wokshop above for those.

I like this stock pot:

http://www.amazon.com/Farberware-Classic-Stainless-Straining-Stockpot/dp/B0002HAEKW/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369669846&sr=1-2&keywords=8+qt+stock+pot+with+strainer

It's a good deal and you will use it a lot. I use it every time I make soup, as well as for pasta.

Sets are always cheaper than buying individual pans. Cookware geeks recommend against buying sets because of the lack of choice, but in your situation, a good low-priced set is your best bet. Save your money for expensive stuff for after you have got the cooking thing down and know what you're most likely to actually use the most.

T-Fal makes "Ultimate Hard Anodized" and "Professional" - either of these are fine, both are "metal utensil safe" - though I wouldn't use metal utensils anyway just to be on the safe side. The Professional series is only available by the piece.

Amazon carries both. Don't get confused between the Ultimate Hard Anodized and the Signature Hard Anodized; the Ultimate are the heavier duty pans.

I'm partial to T-Fal for cheaper pans because my son owns a T-Fal sauce pan that is a good 8 or 10 years old and it's still in service. And that's the CHEAP T-Fal, not the good T-Fal I'm pointing you at. So I'm confident of the quality. Scanpans are my favorite nonstick pan but those are crazy expensive and if a $35 12" T-Fal skillet will last you 8 or 10 years, I'm not sure the $180 for a single 12" open stock Scanpan frying pan can really be justified for you at this point.

If you buy open stock (eg by the piece) be sure to get lids too. You may have to buy them separately. I much prefer glass lids. I like the Nordicware lids like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YVHXRK/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 8" lid fits my 8" Scanpan saute pan like it was made for it, but not all lids that say 8" or whatever are going to fit a pan that's labeled 8" (or whatever). You have to measure the inner diameter of the particular pan, then contact the manufacturer via e-mail and ask them to tell you the ID and OD of the lid you want. The ID is the diameter of the INNER ring that will fit down into the pan, and the OD is the diameter of the entire lid including the outer lip that will rest on the edge of the pan. The ID has to be smaller than the diameter of your pan and the OD has to be larger. Unless you can take your pan to a brick and mortar and try them out, this is the only way to make sure the 12" lid you buy will really fit the 12" pan you own!

And finally, I strongly recommend going ahead and getting the Borner V-Slicer, model 1001 aka "V-Slicer Plus" (the newer models aren't as good in my opinion, the rails are higher and they leave more waste):

http://www.amazon.com/Swissmar-Borner-V-1001-V-Slicer-Mandoline/dp/B0000632QE/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1369673508&sr=1-1&keywords=borner+v-slicer

It'll slice onions faster than you can peel them. The small julienne blade will make matchstick size whatever you put through it. I use the separate julienne slicer (standalone) to make hash browns. I would recommend buying the separate blades and extra blade inserts at Simply Good Stuff because Amazon doesn't carry most of them. The V-slicer set itself is only about $3 more there.

http://www.simplygoodstuff.com/search.asp?keyword=borner&q=borner&sa2.x=12&sa2.y=8

Avoid the Hash Brown Grater and the Twin Grater - they're both all plastic and aren't worth spit. All the other graters and slicers have metal blades.

USE THE SAFETY GRIP. It's really easy to use. Don't push down on it AT ALL, it will cause it to bind. Just slide it back and forth.

You may need to experiment with how you orient it at first, but since I've gotten used to using it I can pretty much use it pointing about any which way. At first it seemed to be easier if I pointed it away from me so you would slice back and forth. It probably depends on the position that is least likely to make you want to apply downward pressure. Once you overcome your natural tendency to think you have to push down on it, positioning won't matter that much.

I wish I had bought one of these 40 years ago, its that handy. Look for extra blade inserts at Simply Good stuff for stuff like Texas fries, the standalone julienne grater (not a V-slicer insert) for super fine shreds, wavy cutter and curly julienne cutter if you want to get fancy. Sometimes they have extra V-slicer holders which you can use to store the extra V-Slicer inserts but you have to call and ask. You do not want to toss those puppies in a drawer, they are super sharp and will cut a finger off before you know it.

I really love this tool. At my age and in the wretched physical shape that I'm in, it makes it POSSIBLE for me to cook, forget just "easier", LOL!

In order of the way I'd do it if I could do it again:

~Garden hose adapter for the kitchen sink, a 1/2" barb to thread onto that adapter, and 5' of 1/2 hose. This is awesome. Blast out carboys. Fill stuff on the ground. $10

~Immersion chiller. Make your own for the same price and twice as large. It's easy and will be that thing that will grow with you and make you psyched you don't need to re-buy when you move up boil sizes. $60

~Propane burner. Another thing that will make your current brewday more pleasant and faster, and will grow with you when you move up boil sizes. $40 - $150

~Larger kettle. Don't fear the cheap & large stainless or aluminum kettles. If stainless - at least 1mm thick (I think that's 18 gauge?). For aluminum, 6mm. If you're going to be on partial extract and moving up to 5 gallon all-grain at some point, get a 10 gallon kettle. Was doing full boils in an 8 gallon pot and hot-break is a nailbiter. You'll need to drill some holes for weldless bulkheads / valves for the best deal, but it's easy.
Here's a good starting point: http://www.amazon.com/Concord-Quart-Stainless-Steel-Cookware/dp/B0085ZOW1A
And for couplers: http://brewhardware.com/valves
(is it against reddiquette to post commercial links? New at this.)
$80 for kettle + $30 or so for bulkhead & valve.

~Refractometer. By this point, you're probably taking tons of measurements. Or want to but don't because hydrometers are a process (to me, anyway). This thing was the hurdle over laziness I needed to measure. $60

Of course there's all the other stuff like moving to full-grain / etc, but you're at a point you can buy some pretty sweet things that will be with you forever. AWESOME!

Also, search http://www.homebrewfinds.com/ for some good deals.

Good luck brotha! Sounds fun.

Get a 20 gallon bk if you can for 10 gallon batches. 15 gallons will work, but a 20 gallon pot is way easier to work with. For a 90 minute boil & 10 gallon finishing size with a heavy hop load you are looking at ~14 gallons pre-boil. That would be a pain in the ass with a ~15 gallon pot. Sure you could use Fermcap-S, but the amount of expansion involved in a rolling boil could be enough to put that over the edge even without any foaming.

Also, you are saying that based on your budget a "deluxe" brew pot isn't worth it... no way man. Just because you can't currently afford one, doesn't mean that they are in any way not worth it. I use boilermakers. Even though they are expensive (some people would say way overpriced), they are still well worth it. You could obviously get similar features for less money if you really want to, but the important part is the features make for easy brew days.

If I was going for something less expensive I'd still want all the stuff that I get on my pot, namely, a 3-piece ball valve with stainless dip tube, sight glass, and thermometer. An integrated thermometer isn't 100% necessary for a BK, but it adds versatility in the future to easily use your current BK for a MLT or HLT, and it's still nice to have to easily monitor wort chilling as well. Checking volumes during sparge/lautering using the sight glass is the easiest possible way to do it. Without a doubt though, a ball valve is 100% essential, not a luxury. I have no interest in moving 10 gallons of boiling hot liquid by hand at any point or even 10 gallons of 148-170°F liquid. Without a ball valve I wouldn't even consider making 10 gallon batches. So much easier to pump liquid between vessels as needed & drain directly into my fermenter.

Edit: $30 more than your listed item & more than worth the price difference 82qt kettle. At a minimum, add a ball valve & you are good to go.

Edit 2: For your mash tun size. 10 gallon baches @ 75% efficiency, you can maximize versatility with a 62-qt tun. That puts you @ 1.097 OG for a 10 gallon brew using 37.2lb of grain @ 1.25qt/lb. If you don't plan on making beers that big, use this chart to determine the appropriate size for your needs.

Hi! Welcome!

Well you probably don't need cold process AND melt and pour samplers. If you're a hands on kinda person (like me), you're gonna love cold process soap making, and (IMO) melt and pour almost feels like cheating at that point :).

You didn't mention equipment, so I'll go over that

1. you'll need a stainless (preferably) pot with high enough sides to not splash. Something like this although you could probably go smaller (depending on how large of batches you want to make. I prefer my pots on the large side because it gives me more room to be sloppy when I mix.
   
   
2. Pick up a hand mixer like this. This isn't 100% necessary, but sooooo worth it. I picked mine up at a flea market for 5 bucks. Check goodwill or salvation army. Having one of these turns 30-40 minutes of stirring into 3 minutes of blending.
   
   
3. For cold process, pick yourself up a couple of good wine and beer thermometers. These are nice because they measure in 2 degree increments. You can use any other food thermometer, this is just my preference.
   
   
4. Make sure you go to the grocery and pick up some good thick gloves and some safety goggles. Lye is an amazing chemical, but can burn the hell out of you if you're not careful. better safe than sorry.
   
   
5. When you get ready to pour your soap into the mold, you're gonna want to have it lined with some freezer paper. Don't use wax paper. If you use wax paper, you're gonna have a bad time.
   
   
6. It is very important to pick up a scale. Everything in soap-making is measured in weight, not volume. I'll repeat that, EVERYTHING IS MEASURED IN WEIGHT. If you find a scaled that weighs in lbs and oz, you'll have to a lot fewer conversions in your head.
   
   
   That being said, don't let that list scare you, like I said, I picked up most of my gear from thrift stores and flea markets. Soap making is fascinating and well worth the effort. Enjoy!

I AM NOT AN EXPERT MANY PEOPLE KNOW FAR MORE THEN I DO, MAYBE THEY WILL INTERJECT IF I AM WRONG

Alright, let me guide you away from the starter kit. It has helped me know what I'm doing, and develop my process, thinking about and acquiring the pieces I would need. Let's say to start off with you just are busting to brew! Can't contain it anymore!

Start off with these three things

This Pot

This Cooker

-and I know it's not prime shipping but one of these

Plastic Carboys for $25.53 CDN with airlock and stopper

alright so baring the cost of shipping from AiH, plus a propane tank, siphon/tubing, and sanitizer. your looking at a cool $149.25 CDN for a bare bones basic kit for extract brewing.

Now you get a little more fancy, and throw in

This Auto Siphon

this brew in a bag

and this thermometer

and you right around $210 CDN minus a big ass spoon and bottling bucket that would be all you need to do all grain brewing from a bare bones stand point (ok baring ingredients also) but I think you could get off cheaper.. or at least better gear for the same money. especially since the kit you picked out doesn't even have a propane burner or pot this is a hell of a steal. You could go all out, buying a mini fridge and temperature controller for fermentation, an immersion chiller so your not icing down your beer post boil in a bathtub, custom mash paddles, etc.

What I got mad about when I started brewing was how much people were charging for what amounted too a couple of buckets, airlocks, benchcappers, and some "literature". When if you pieced it out it was more like price gauging because I did't know what I was doing.

Either way you go about it, welcome to paradise! Just wait till everyone starts rolling their eyes, when you bring up beer so you seek out friends that brew and you all start your big group beer tastings, I ♥ my beer buddies.

TL;DR : Here's an arguably better (and more utilized) "starter kits" of sorts for a basic bare bones set up. From a newly all grain brewer in a college apt

Before you pull the trigger on that, there's a groupon for a homebrew set:

http://www.groupon.com/deals/gx-midwest-hydroponic-atlanta

It's the basic kit plus brewing ingredients, PLUS a $25 coupon. The kit you linked also includes:

-Carboy, if you really want to get it. Honestly, for a first batch, you can get by without one and just do a single stage fermentation, but it's recommended to get a secondary. My first batch was an extract that spent ~2 weeks in a primary then straight to bottles. Came out great. There's a good deal at Amazon right now on a 6 gallon glass carboy. Also add a bung and Airlock

-Bottles. Drink some beer, keep some bottles. If you want to buy them, get 48 for a 5 gallon batch (about $25) or go cheap and get some plastic PET bottles. Also a good option. See: every argument of plastic vs. glass for a comparison.

-Large stock pot. For a first extract, you won't need more than a 2 gallon boil, so you can get by with as small as 12 qts. A cheap 12 qt pot can get you started.

Not sure what shipping is for those, but I bought this aluminum stock pot on Amazon last year for about $60 shipped. It's awesome, very sturdy, and seems well made.

That said I have no experience with the two you listed, but I hope this helps a little but at least. And BTW aluminum is awesome, much more economical than stainless. I would only go stainless for the "bling" factor.

How does it work ? Can you make a DIY version of that ? Where can I buy it (i'm in Japan) ?

EDIT : Did some research, expensive for an import. There is also a self stirring mug O_O

EDIT2 : I figured out by myself how it worked after doing the research guys, but thanks for telling me anyway great community we have here =D

I have a 40 QT (10 gallon) which I use for 5 gallon BIAB batches. It's a really wide pot so it stretches over two burners. Taller thinner pots are more popular to reduce your boil off rate, but I don't think that matters much. I usually boil about 6.5 gallons, from 7.25 of strike water. So far no issues with space during the mash, but I haven't tried to make anything like a barleywine in it. I'm not that patient.

Most kitchens are wired with separate breakers to every outlet, occasionally even separate breakers to the plugs in the outlets. So your chances are good. If not use an extension cord, preferably with a GFCI dongle.

I don't have any heating elements in the pot, I didn't know about them when i set up this system. If I had to start over I'd think about using heating elements instead of induction, it seems to be cheaper. Especially the pot. Then again the pot's easier to clean this way.

By the way another option is two heating elements in the pot plugged into different breakers.

I agree with rxus2. 5 gallon is just not gonna cut it. Might still be able to find a clearance turkey fryer from last year for $30 or so. They usually come with a 7.5 gallon aluminum pot, mine has lasted over a dozen batches and is still doing fine. If you're going to invest in stainless, you might as well get something commercial quality and big enough to keep around when you decide to try all grain recipes. This is the hot deal right now.

Building an immersion chiller was some of the best money I've ever spent.

You mentioned sanitizer but didn't say what kind it is. If its powdered, then you might want to consider getting some star san. The 32 oz bottle will last you years.

As for the thermometer, the analog one that comes with the turkey fryer will be fine for steeping grains with your extract kits, but you'll probably want to get a good digital instant-read once you do all-grain.

Not to be rude, but I really don't think you have the disease quite yet. Have you only made 1 batch with the Mr. Beer kit since December? I got my first kit (the midwest groupon, bought 2) December '11, I've since made 65 gallons of beer and 5 gallons of apfelwein, and I just finished my 5 tap keezer this week. You'll feel it when it really kicks in, and so will your wallet.

I got some induction equipment for doing all-grain BIAB brews inside last winter. In order to get enough wattage to get my boils going fast I needed to use a 220V outlet, so when I brew I just drag my oven out and use a plug converter to plug into it's outlet.

• Winware Stainless Steel Kettle
  
• Max Burton 220V Induction Burner
  
  It takes me roughly 20 minutes or so longer than doing it outside on propane, but it works quite well and am very happy with it and would recommend it highly.

I have been brewing for almost 6 years now. I started with extract in a 30qt (7.5 gallon) basic stainless brew kettle. Similar to this,https://www.amazon.com/7-5-Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Stock/dp/B000E62GRU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1481573622&sr=8-13&keywords=stainless+steel+pot+30+quart , undrilled, and I got it at some small LHBS for about $65. I still mostly use that brew kettle today.

I later moved to all grain and got a 10 gallon water cooler, similar to: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-10-Gal-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D28I-Cleaning%7c&gclid=Cj0KEQiAsrnCBRCTs7nqwrm6pcYBEiQAcQSznLo5DlKE0S0-3iXFHqQJG9k4lqHGbQyClhGCAXDtbmUaAhfX8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds , and converted it as cheaply as possible following various videos on youtube.

I later upgraded to a false bottom, which was an easy upgrade after most of that was already in place.

Currently, I am in process of moving up to some converted kegs and doing a 10 gallon batch. It might even be my next brew.

Fermenting, I have a fermentation cabinet in the basement that I built to keep carboys at a minimum temperature, only heated. I also have a converted freezer-keggerator. I use 2-6.5 gallon and 2-5 gallon carboys, usually 6.5 gallon for primary.

I upgraded to kegging fairly early, because bottling got really old. Now I bottle almost every other brew with a beer gun, but I feel its more consistent flavor and I don't have to wait to empty a keg to fill do my next brew.

A burner is always handy, because most larger kettles have a slightly rounded bottom and electric only works efficiently with contact. I use an immersion chiller, and I think I prefer that over a counterflow chiller. Its easier to clean.

I also built a stir plate and can some wort for a yeast starter.

Here are some random pictures. http://imgur.com/a/Va7hS

I also have that model of Instant Pot, before they added the yogurt making (?) feature. I'm completely with sharplikeginsu on all points, but I'll just add another significant plus with the Instant Pot:

• You can swap out the inner metal pot, assuming you get an extra (which I did)
  
  The advantage there is that you can cook your longer-cooking meat, then have another inner pot with rice/vegetables/what have you, ready to be swapped in the second the first dish is done and the pressure released. With a stovetop model, you'd have to clean out the pot before reloading it with the next batch of food.
  
  The only downside I'd say is that it might not be as durable as a stovetop model, though mine's lasted for a year and a half so far with no issues aside from cosmetic dings on the thinner outer metal wall. I love my Instant Pot!

That looks like it would ft into my 5 quart saute pan, so I would use that. I have mostly Cuisinart stainless, and I think their lines made in France are worth a look. I also like Tramontina stainless. If I needed to replace my saute pan I would look for a deal on this Tri-Ply Clad Covered Deep Saute Pan.

If I needed a bigger pan this Tramontina 9 qt Dutch Oven would be my choice.

The saute pan is more expensive because it is fully multiclad, so I would look for a deal.

The Dutch oven has a tri ply base which makes it less expensive, but I think it is the better value.

I have the 5-quart Tramontina saute pan which is my most used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JAPVJME/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've also got the 3-quart sauce pan from Cuisinart MCP and the 10" saute pan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009P4845K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-MCP22-24N-MultiClad-Stainless-10-Inch/dp/B009P4851S

​

I've been very pleased with all of them. Durable, easy to clean, and let me make a variety of more complex dishes.

Ok, BIAB looks like the easiest way to do this. I don't want to buy too much equipment for this just yet. NB has a starter kit, but it looks like I'm only missing the mesh bag and a "mash paddle". What's the paddle for? I guess I have some research to do. Thanks.

Is this the sort of kettle you're thinking of?

Aluminum is fine if you understand how to clean it. If you want a high quality pot, look into something with a tri-ply bottom like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Update-International-SPS-20-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000X1JO6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483214439&sr=8-2&keywords=update+international+stock+pot

Although in my opinion, getting a metal basket might be worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-4020-Stockpot-aluminum/dp/B000VXKJNE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483214493&sr=8-2&keywords=bayou+stock+pot+with+basket

https://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-1124-24-Quart-Stainless/dp/B000FTHX8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483214476&sr=8-1&keywords=bayou+stock+pot

You're right... after looking around the best deal I could find was an 8.75 gallon stainless steel pot for $75 (with free shipping if you have amazin's prime deal).

You won't outbrew an aluminum pot's life, so long as you take care of it. If you want to do this on the cheap, you do it thusly:

| Part | Cost |
| :-- | --: |
| Thunder Group Stock Pot (60 qt) | $48.35 |
| Weldless kettle kit with 2-piece ball valve | $22.00 |
| Camlock Type F | $3.99 |
| Thermometer | $24.00 |
| Thermometer coupling | $6.50 |
| Amazon Shipping | $12.86 |
| Bargain Fittings Shipping | $5.00 |
| Total | $122.70 |

This assumes you already have a step bit. If you want the 40qt pot, it's $14.95 less than the 60qt.

Sure, no problem! I used this simple recipe.

I let it sit for about 12 hours for step 2. My house was probably about 65° during the night.

For step 4, I degassed it and got the boule as tight as possible before proofing, and then I proofed it in a bowl on a floured cloth (not on the counter top like the recipe shows). I probably proofed it about an hour, rather than 30 min.
I carefully turned it into the heated 10" cast iron pan, and covered it with a heated upside-down oven-safe sauce pot that happened to be the exact same width as the pan (making a perfect seal). I also probably baked it about 15 min longer than the recipe says to get the crust how I wanted it. I took it out with an internal temp of 210° (but I wouldn't worry about it if you don't have an insta-read thermometer).

I've also done each of these once: this one (which turned out well) and this one (which was predictably very yeasty, but fine). The above posted one was the easiest and tastiest so far for me (but again, I'm only 3 loaves deep into this hobby).

Just curious, but why? You can get a SS/Alumin 40 Qt pot for about that price. SS if you wait for a sale, aluminum almost always, like here.

Nothing wrong with that. In fact, some people sous vide in any old kitchen pot, which allows you to heat the water both with your circulator and stovetop at the same time. Personally, I don't do that, since round pots tend to get somewhat cramped with bags and therefore have poor circulation.

Interestingly, I just saw this soup pot that is designed to fit a circulator as well as act as a regular pot:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SOUSV0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

More of an issue if you are doing a lot of high temp cooks, like veggies at 194°F, and for Anova ect. users (Joule can heat water twice as fast).

> a large conventional pot (40-50L something along the lines of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078BNRXQ2)

As others mentioned, be sure your stove can quickly heat, and boil, 40L of water. The Concord Kettle is a great kettle I can vouch for. No matter what, you’re going to want to make a hole and install a spigot.

> a pre-tapped fermenter to bottle straight from there

It could work if you prime with sugar individually in each bottle, but many find it easier to leave behind sediment and get even carbonation by transferring into a bottling bucket first.

even worse than that...why would you eat microwaved popcorn? it's just as easy, healthier, and tastes much better to do kettle popped popcorn.

what the hell is wrong with you, dude?

EDIT: here's what you do:

1. get a pot like this. a nice, tall pot with a glass lid, because its fun to watch them pop.
   
   
2. get some popcorn kernels (i like the popsecret brand, myself).
   
   
3. fill the bottom with however much popcorn you want.
   
   
4. take canola oil and pour onto the popcorn. enough to half coat all the kernels.
   
   
5. turn on heat. pop corn.
   
   
6. when popping slows to 3-4 seconds a pop, turn off heat.
   
   
7. open lid.
   
   
8. here's the trick: two pinches of salt for every pinch of sugar sprinkled on the popcorn.
   
   
9. shake pot with popcorn like a polaroid picture without spilling all over the place.
   

I have this aluminum pot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X1MG1M/ref=sxl1?qid=1465764194&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&th=1&psc=1

I have it in the 40 qt version which was 50 dollars. You can get the 32 qt for around 40 which would be just big enough for a full boil, you just have to be careful of the boil over around the hot break.

I'd like to do 5 gallon batches. I don't think the quantity from the Mr Beer keg is worth it.

How's this look? Total is around $80.

Fermentation bucket

Bung/airlock

Stock pot

Autosiphon

Star San or Idophor (What's the difference?)

Is there any advantage to having a carboy as well? How long would I leave the beer in the fermentation bucket?

So if I wanted to do sours, I'd basically have to get 2 of everything?

Edit - actually, wouldn't this kit be about the same, but with an extra bucket but no stock pot?

Edit 2 - another pot, 36qt is good price, leaving this here so I can find it again.

If you're thinking the Bayou, just go Concord. Not much difference save price. Thickness and clad bottoms at our volume don't really matter. And, I have an 18 gallon Concord that's wonderful.

E.g. http://www.amazon.com/Concord-Cookware-S3539S-Stainless-40-Quart/dp/B0085ZOW1A

There's sometimes better deals on ebay.

The cheapest route will be to get the parts and build it:

• Kettle: http://www.amazon.com/Winware-Stainless-Steel-Quart-Stock/dp/B001AS90CK
  
  
• Valve: http://www.amazon.com/Beer-Brewing-Kettle-Valve-Weldless/dp/B007B1W0J0
  
  
• Thermometer: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008FEPE18/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NDJH7J4KN0B7F35H6VR
  
  That gets you what you want for $140 before shipping costs. You could go with aluminum or a smaller pot (this one is 10 gallons) to save a little more, or shop around a bit. I just did a quick search for those.
  
  Just bear in mind that the handles on the cheaper pots tend to be a bit flimsy, so you're better off not moving it once it's full. Make sure you're brewing up high enough that gravity can do its job.

I use this 82qt Bayou Classic for making 10 gallon batches. It's great!

Question: Are there any major concerns with using a conventional pot for stove-top BIAB?

(Apologizing in advance if this is covered somewhere... if it is my google-fu is severely letting me down.)

I'm looking to get into homebrewing, as decent beer is quite expensive where I live and I've always wanted to give it a shot. I'm constrained in space and money, especially since I'm just starting out. Essentially I'm trying to put up minimal cash for now and "prove" to the wife I'll stick with it, and gradually upgrade over time.

That said, initially I'm looking to get into a BIAB setup as that seems to be the best compromise between potential quality of the brew, control over flavor, and simplicity in setup. Researching equipment, a lot of people seem to buy pre-fabricated pots with built in or added electric heating elements that are pre-tapped. From the outside it appears to add more cost to an initial build than convenience.

What I'd like to initially get is a large conventional pot (40-50L something along the lines of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078BNRXQ2), a DIY immersion chiller, a pre-tapped fermenter to bottle straight from there, and just funnel the chilled brew from pot to fermenter.

Question: Are there any major concerns with using a conventional pot for stove-top BIAB?

(Apologizing in advance if this is covered somewhere... if it is my google-fu is severely letting me down.)

I'm looking to get into homebrewing, as decent beer is quite expensive where I live and I've always wanted to give it a shot. I'm constrained in space and money, especially since I'm just starting out. Essentially I'm trying to put up minimal cash for now and "prove" to the wife I'll stick with it, and gradually upgrade over time.

That said, initially I'm looking to get into a BIAB setup as that seems to be the best compromise between potential quality of the brew, control over flavor, and simplicity in setup. Researching equipment, a lot of people seem to buy pre-fabricated pots with built in or added electric heating elements that are pre-tapped. From the outside it appears to add more cost to an initial build than convenience.

What I'd like to initially get is a large conventional pot (40-50L something along the lines of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078BNRXQ2), a DIY immersion chiller, a pre-tapped fermenter to bottle straight from there, and just funnel the chilled brew from pot to fermenter.

Sorry, I’ll be honest we’re pretty new to this. It’s possible the Amazon links on our webpage are affiliate links. I’ll have to look into it. Just out of curiosity, is there a problem with affiliate links?

For your reference here are the page links:
Duratux 10” Fry Pan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0745GMM4N/
Sous Vide Pot: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SOUSV0/

I just used my stove and bout a 16qt Pot from Amazon. Worked perfect. You could even get fancy and drill a hole and put a valve in and it could be gravity fed too. It was $35!!!


Excelsteel 16 Quart Stainless Steel Stockpot With Encapsulated Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1KR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-.qZDb98V9K54

I have also cold sparked for the first time and had no issues. Was a 9-11lbs of grain.

Decent Bigger Ones aren't too bad in price. I think I may pick one up because im cooking bigger dishes now and my 1-1/2 qt is too small.

If your only pot is 16qt and you plan on doing biab, I'd say your next purchase should probably be a larger kettle, unless you prefer doing small batches. A 16qt stock pot with BIAB will be challenging to do a batch larger than 2 or 3 gallons. I'd suggest a 10 gallon kettle, though that's a tough find at $25. Aluminum will be cheaper than stainless, so that's the direction I went for the sake of cost back when I wasn't sure if I'd stick with this hobby.

I got this kettle shipped for $30.53. I lucked out by finding one that someone had returned (slightly dented) that amazon was trying to recoup something for. Even came with a lid, which I don't think that listing does normally.

Here: http://www.amazon.com/T-Fal-Specialty-12-Quart-Nonstick-Stock/dp/B000GWK34K

You really don't see them that often in stores. That's a good point.

Because it's a pot. It looks like a pan because of the flared rim.

Seems like you can get one on Amazon.

Yup -- he is looking at the inside 1/2 of something like of these: https://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-1124-24-Quart-Stainless/dp/B000FTHX8S/

$30 US for another pot on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Pot-Stainless-Steel-Cooking/dp/B008BKHGX0

Almost worth it for a second machine.

And you can buy them on Amazon (only 3 left!)

Well, think about the headroom. How much krausen are you looking at? If you brew something with a particularly active fermentation that's going to leave quite the mess. You have no access to a top with a valve for a blowoff tube, meaning you'll have to use aluminum foil.

You'll want something more along these lines: https://smile.amazon.com/7-5-Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Stock/dp/B000E62GRU

It might be okay, but if you don't want to chance it Amazon sells replacement pots.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Instant-Pot-Stainless-Cooking/dp/B008BKHGX0

Got a genuine pot from Amazon

Genuine Instant Pot Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BKHGX0?

Oh sorry. You can go on Amazon and order another stainless steel pot insert for the IP.

Probably fine. If you don't trust it, you can buy a new one.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Instant-Pot-Stainless-Cooking/dp/B008BKHGX0

You can approach scaling in two different ways:

• Vertically scaling is where you increase the capacity of your brew vessels. As noted by others, your vessel should be larger than your target batch size to avoid boiling over and to compensate for wort volume lost from evaporation.
  
• Horizontally scaling is where you increase the inventory of your standard equipment and run multiple batches simultaneously.
  
  It's also possible to combine methodologies. For example, you can vertically scale using 15.5 gallon keg kettles or 60 quart stock pots and horizontally scale by running two batches simultaneously to hit your 25 gallon target.

Or get one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Kurukurunabe-Self-stirring-Only-Japan-Import/dp/B00AGIRUKY

http://www.amazon.com/Kurukurunabe-Self-stirring-Only-Japan-Import/dp/B00AGIRUKY

This is the "Kurukurunabe Self-stirring Pot" and you can buy them here for $86.

However, they only work on gas elements.

Thoughts on these. It so much cheaper than the equivalent SS pot. Will use to upgrade to 5 gal BIAB. Currently do 2 gal in a 4 gal pot.

> That's how you make beer.

Nah, I use one of these and wait until everything's fermented before putting it in a keg