(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best thermometers

1. That's fairly cheap you can find some china models on dhgate that could help you get there. If you want to deal with Auber there is http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45&products_id=484 for 170$ they have a flat coil and nail.
   
   I can't speak for their nail; but the controller and coil is rock solid. Then you just need an atomizer (nail) to finish it off such as a D-Nail SiC Halo or an CCA Banger. You can get a 20mm coil and then get a quartz banger if you prefer that route.
   
   That controller (The RDK-300A) will handle D-Nail coils as well as Auber coils so there's no unique pinout to burn you later (like high5 does)
   
   
2. If you want to read the nail surface you need a k-type thermocouple that can handle the head. So you will need something that can give you results from the probes; so this is a pretty good device https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHYA8/ ... here are some probes I have used that work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083SZC6S/
   
   
3. Get a good controller; then get the nail you want. You are free to change your mind in the future that's the joy of a controller that you can get another coil for incase you want something different.
   
   Take it slow and it might take a few paydays or months to get everything sorted the way you want.
   
   140-170 outlay for the controller with a nail is small; then you can step up after a few paydays and you know better what you want next.
   

When it comes to heating, the most important thing is to provide a regulated heat source. An under-tank heater (UTH) is superior to any sort of bulb/lamp because they don't negatively affect humidity. However, any heat source needs to be regulated by a thermostat because they can get too hot and cause burns otherwise.

So here's how you do it... Get the UTH and place it under his enclosure (btw what type of housing are you using?). Connect it to the thermostat, and sandwich the probe between the pad and bottom of the cage. (If the probe is too bulky and you don't have enough clearance to do this, you can also secure it to the inside of the cage, over the heat pad with some hot glue - don't use tape!) You might have to play around with the temperature settings on the thermostat to find a good temp that penetrates the bottom of the cage. For this reason, a temperature gun is very useful - those little adhesive or analog thermometers sold in pet shops are useless garbage, don't even waste your money on them.

He might strike out of fear. It does sound like he was in a defensive posture. Everything is very new to him, and he likely feels very insecure. This just comes with the territory, and he'll get used to you as time goes on. It's generally recommended to avoid handling a new snake until they are eating consistently, though it's fine to make an exception if you need to fix part of the habitat or clean poop.

If he does bite you out of fear (a quick tag and release), you'll find that it actually doesn't really hurt much! The suddenness of the strike can be the most jarring part; their teeth are small and weak, and it kind of just feels like a mild papercut :)

If he bites you out of a feeding response (firm bite while attempting to constrict your hand), do not attempt to pull him off. You'll break his teeth off in your hand, and it will feel very shitty to both you and him. Just stay calm, and use a Q-tip to dab rubbing alcohol, Listerine, or vodka on his gums or under his nostrils. That usually makes them release immediately.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help you with :)

Thanks! Forgive some very basic questions, but what is ramp/soak? And why is a PID controller better than, say, a logging digital thermometer like this? (though that thermometer is more expensive than ideal considering my cheap roaster...)

Can't help you on the stove case but a friend of mine has been using a good old fashioned spirit thermometer for years now. He just hangs it from a bush or tree in the campsite and then it's pretty simple to "operate".

/edit-a lot of watches have built in thermometers, but you have to take it off and let it stabilize to get an accurate reading. The old fashioned thermometer works better...

I have that same thermowell, there are a ton of sensors that are 1/4 inch or less that fit in it. Both the STC temperature probe, the johnson digital/analog temp probe fit in it if you want a controller with probe.

If you're just looking for probes, here are some. You don't need it to be snug in there, touching the bottom/inside of the thermowell is enough in my experience.

.236"

.2"

.2" - 5 Pack

The thermowell fit perfectly in a 3/8 inch bore, it has a flanged head so it rests nicely without falling through.

A few years ago, this digital thermometer was on sale for $45. I grabbed it up, and it has been great.

If I were to do it over again, I would probably buy this thermometer, seems like a pretty good deal at $70.

I am one of like 2 people in my works kitchen who uses one of these. Just searched it up on my phone and realized the one my chef bought is over 100$ lmao (This one).

However, my dad uses something closer to This one. But its for his garage and car projects. I Doubt it matters the use right?

Although accuracy may be the play when you drastically change the price like that? idk. lol

When using those things in the past I bundled the cable together with a ziptie and kept the whole thing down in the cage.

What will you be using to heat the enclosure? To be safe, I recommend getting an infared thermometer to double check your temps. Those thermometers you are using have been known to be unreliable and it is good to have something to double check.

Your tank looks great from what I can see. Snakes don't need much, just some places to hide and proper temps/humidity which you seem to have down. You don't NEED a branch for climbing, but if you enjoy seeing them climb around go for it!

if you're using it in your home, that has heat in winter--like most homes--either will work fine. it's just a matter of which is more energy efficient and you can check the energy ratings on each particular model.

they tend to give off a fair amount of heat though, so for summer use if it's hot then you might consider an in-room AC with dehumidifier built in, which has a vent to exhaust the warm air and will also cool the room, like this;

https://www.amazon.com/115V-Portable-Conditioner-Remote-Control/dp/B0115XWCHO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498945312&sr=8-2&keywords=lg+in+room+ac+dehumidifier

you can also get an indoor temp/humidity instrument and only turn it on when needed (some devices will cycle on/off by themselves, but I like to see the numbers!) because INDOOR RH is what you are concerned with, not outdoor.

https://www.amazon.com/Extech-RHM15-Mini-Temp-Indicator/dp/B00OZ8WKQA/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498945381&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=extech+indoor+temp+rh

I feel like I should apologize for kind of jumping down your throat, I just get irritated when people go to a pet store, talk to one or two people and take their word as fact in regards to caring for a snake that's actually usually a lot more complicated then they probably told you. here are some really good care sheets you should check out before you go shopping and such

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Snakes/Ball-Python/

http://www.royalconstrictordesigns.com/ball-python-care-sheet (this one is super detailed and a bit of a long read

http://www.worldofballpythons.com/python-regius/care-sheet/

just as an example here are the items that I use for my pythons husbandry

thermometer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1BYESU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hygrometer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWWQY82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this is kinda cool because it also checks your ambient temperature and sends the information wirelessly to the console so you can check your husbandry from across the room

thermostat http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

now with those thermostats you're going to set up the probe directly above the glass, directly above where you have the heat pad underneath the tank, it's going to measure ambient temperature. not ground temperature, so it will take some fiddling, make sure to use the temperature gun to check what the ground temps are should be around 90 on the hot end of the tank (they might have told you you can regulate the temperature above the heating pad by the amount of substrate you use, and while that is correct, your ball python will dig to the glass eventually and if it's too hot they could get some pretty nasty burns

the only downside to kind of dividing the tank, is your BP will most likely find their way over to the other side, and by cutting the entire tank in half or whatever you're making a larger percentage of the tank heated by that heat pad. I normally don't like using sterilite tubs for my ball pythons because they used to be my display snakes, but that might be a better option for you until your ball python is large enough for the glass tank or you get a smaller glass tank for them

The biggest problem I overcame when cooking briskets/all smoking was cooking for internal temp vs. time. Gotta get a good thermometer. I use a scientific one as they are cheap and ISO 9000 accurate.
http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Traceable-Shockproof-Waterproof-Thermometer/dp/B006OCN3PC/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1374271617&sr=1-12&keywords=thermometer


My recommendation for keeping it moist: Fat side up. If your doing a full packer trim, placement is important as the cap will cook faster then the flat (not intuitive). I think it has to do with different muscle types. As others have said, low and slow. My briskets (usually 17 lbs) always go on the night before with rub (most any will work, all seem to be big on Paprika, onion, garlic, and heat/pepper/cayan) and smoke @ 225 for ~ 5 hours then stop with wood and keep the heat anywhere from 12 to 16 MORE hours until internal temp hits 195. This temp is past the breakdown of fibers and helps turn the brisket into something more tender... the same happens with your pork shoulders. A water pan near the heat helps act as a heat sink and will keep moisture in the smoker. Gotta refill every time you open the chamber. The fat will drain over/through the meat and help make a bark that helps keep juices in. Because of this, I don't wrap. The bennie is burnt ends and a moist flat.


A good resource I use is
http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34&sid=a7a86cb518bd9dfef51d76c4395701c2


Multiple edits cuz I cant spell or make a coherent post.

Smart Wireless Refrigeration Scale, 110lb cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758492Q9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q724CbNACQHA2

I've been using this one for a year or so. It's accurate, reliable, and well made. It has no screen so you have to pair it with bluetooth to the app. That part is easy and the app is very minimalistic. It's a good scale.

I occasionally use one of these to track slurry temp and it hasn't let me down so far. If you're looking for something that will record temperatures for you as you brew, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Testo-Wireless-Thermometer-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B01BP8NFWA) seems to fit the bill.

Good luck!

So the melting point of adex is between 81-82 degrees C. being as water boils at 100C you'll be fine using this method.
You'll first need some capillary tubes and a decent immersion thermoter

This is where it gets a bit tricky. I would probably use a glass beaker to boil the water so you're able to see clearly when the sample begins to melt. be sure to calibrate thermo and account for any discrepancy in the range.

anyway, this is how I've done it in the past. if anyone else has a more reliable or easier method im all ears.

I think a hot plate and a thermo gun would work well too..

Any LET will do as its mainly all the same, only difference is company really. Foam comes in 2 ways, Square for the back of the board/around the socket or Round for around the F1 Dark itself. It comes treatred with Bio stuff so no bacteria form with it gets wet. Shop towels are shop towels but They have to be BLUE!!!

Thermal Probes and a Fluke 52 or other temperature monitoring device are a must as software is trash for subzero monitoring

Here is my setup for a rough idea When running for a while and for extra safety i will wrap the Pot in shop towels as well just for the extra insulation.

I want to buy this IR thermometer for C41 development but its tolerance is ±1.5°C. Is that too much? If so can someone recommend a decent thermometer that's actually accurate?

How does that thermometer compare to one of these?

I think you've sold me on the propane, I was under the impression it was closer to $15 per 5 gallon batch. Any good sources on BIAB bags for 5 gallon batches in a 10 gallon kettle or do most people make their own? The largest size at my LHBS seems like it would max at out ~7lbs of grain.

You can use something like this quickly at your local hardware store for super cheap, and you can get them even cheaper from amazon, if you're willing to wait on shipping. Just point it at where you want to measure temps and pull the trigger.

Yep it's simple as that you can get in electronics stem thermometer get yourself a couple of them from Amazon. 50 degrees outside you should have at least 20 degree temperature rise through the heat pump. I'm assuming that both units are going to be having a return air that is pretty much the same. Milder temperatures they should be able to have a better idea of how the charge is. If the line set is licking the only way they can determine that if they would have to shut down your heat pump and pressure test. Might have to let it sit for a week or two see if it loses pressure. These work well for checking temperatures

UEi Test Instruments PDT650 Folding Pocket Digital Thermometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7WO1DbKY1XHGF

I would just stick the probe inside the grates? Something like below device would work?

https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-PDT650-Thermometer/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=W5255YO2AKBR&keywords=hvac+temperature+probe&qid=1563531434&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+tempe%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-3

buy a pocket thermometer and stick in the vent closest to the air handler in the attic. Then buy a temp/humidity sensor that sits on a table. You should see a 16-20 degree differential between the two temps.

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https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-PDT650-Thermometer/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536714391

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_uCgMBbEQR1CGF

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I use this Amprobe with my 1600+. The wires do not terminate in long metal probes, so I can easily snake them into the roaster. This model also has USB so I can log roasts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHZLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are several on Amazon.com under $20. See here for one that would work for your purposes.