Reddit mentions: The best infrared thermometers

Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you would be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid / sterilite / iris tub and soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing.

Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.

Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant with one end at between 88F and 90F and a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, and should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. If, for some reason, you decide to ignore this advice and get a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate.

Thermostats
Any and all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F and seriously injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones with more probes so that you can control all your heat sources with one unit. They have a ton of good safety features and a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features and can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.

Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side. I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps and the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes and also checking the temps of the prey items.

Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open and they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. IMO some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are also dishwasher safe, and also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe and thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines / leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.

Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop and pee in their water occasionally. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.

Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, and as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation and dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. THey come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer (and I myself am a vegetarian, no concerns about it mixing in with my veggies). If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.

How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.

You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.

Frozen / Thawed
I feed frozen/thawed from Perfect Prey. I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 110F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. Sometimes I use a double boiler method instead, depends on the day. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.

I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.

Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.

Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. My BP likes burrowing under the paper towels. She creates "underground" tunnels. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.

Shedding
Hatchlings shed more frequently, but you should expect regular shedding. Usually the most visible sign they are about to shed is them getting cloudy or "blue" eyes - just google image search for "ball python blue eyes" - the ones that look cloudy are what you are looking for (not the beautiful "blue eyed lucy"). Once they "go into blue" you want to leave them alone as much as possible. Check in on them to refill their water and make sure their humidity is correct, but don't handle or disturb them while they are shedding. You will probably see them remove their skin about a week after they go blue. Right right before they shed, their eyes will clear up, but don't be fooled - if you haven't found their old skin they haven't shed yet. Once you have their old skin, you will want to remove it and inspect it. You might need to moisten it, but unroll it (there might be a poop in it....) carefully and look for eye caps and make sure the whole skin is in one long piece. Then inspect the snake for any stuck shed. Don't pull off the stuck shed, but soak your BP in some warm water and it should come off mostly on its own. Stuck shed is usually a sign that humidity is off - so try to identify ways to increase humidity.

>[E]very chem lab should have a good number of 150-250 mL glass beakers on hand.

1. After looking up the differences (incl. price) between regular glass and borosilicate glass, when would borosilicate be mandatory?
   
   >Some large size glass test tubes will come in handy, and those are relatively cheap.
   
   
2. What would be considered "large size?"
   
   >Depending on what type of reactions you want to do, you may find it good to have petri dishes handy, either glass or plastic (they'd be good for crystallization experiments, certainly).
   
   
3. How many, and of what size, would be good for starting?
   
   >You should definitely have a few pipettes, either the cheap plastic 3 mL kind, or if you can afford it, nicer glass droppers (Pasteur pipettes are fun to use, albeit fragile and hard to clean).
   
   
4. Are the glass pipettes for strong acids, basis, or organic solvents? Are there any other benefits to glass pipettes?
   
   >You will definitely need a graduated cylinder, maybe a few, in different sizes, glass or plastic (definitely glass if you're planning on working with any strong acids or bases, or using organic solvents).
   
   
5. What sizes should I be looking for? I'm guessing polypropelyne is the preferred plastic type since that has the most available on Amazon. Is this Set of 7 Polypropylene Cylinders sufficient? What size glass cylinder would be the most common for home experiments with strong acids, bases, or organic solvents?
   
   >You will find a scale, accurate to at least a tenth of a gram, to be an invaluable tool.
   
   
6. Could you please recommend a specific scale, or at least a type? I'd like to spend as little as possible without getting a piece of junk. Is there anything available for under $100?
   
   >Some litmus or pH paper will be useful.
   
   
7. Most of these seem to be range limited. I found what appears to be a full range paper or a set of papers that provide full range. Would you recommend either of these?
   
   >Oh, and a thermometer, of course!
   
   
8. I thought this one was simple until I looked it up. What exactly am I looking for here? Infrared Thermometers seem like a good idea because they don't physically contact the sample, but I'd like some guidance with regard to a trusted brand.
   
   >If you want to dispense precise quantities of any liquid, a 25 mL burette will be your best friend, though it's certainly not necessary.
   
   8.a) This one seems relatively straightforward. Finally!
   
   >a volumetric flask, for making precise stock solutions.
   
   
9. Size? I've tentatively added a 100ml and 500ml to my list. Is Karter Scientific considered good quality?
   
   >A few Erlenmeyer flasks, for mixing things.
   
   
10. This set of Erlenmeyer flasks seems like a good place to start. Which sizes do you find yourself needing most often?
    
    >A volumetric pipette, for making equal aliquots.
    
    
11. Wow, these things appear to be quite expensive. What types of home experiments would it be difficult to do without a volumetric pipette? This one will probably wait until the need arises.
    
    >Oh, and if you just want your lab to be that much more mad sciencey, you could have a distillation flask and a few condensation tubes bubbling in the background. If you want to make a significant investment, you could get a magnetic stirring platform, maybe one with good heating powers. Also great for whisking up an egg, or keeping some batter moving while you make pancakes. Pricey, though.
    
    
12. I'll probably stay away from the distillation flasks and condensation tubes until I stumble upon an experiment that requires them, but the magnetic stirring platform looks like a much cooler way to make coffee in the morning. Is this stirrer from Hanna Instruments any good?
    
    
    Thanks a ton for putting together that list!
    
    EDIT: Formatting

Batch cooking ahead of time is a great way to save time and the food is just as good as cooking fresh. Having food ready to go in the fridge has also helped me save money from eating out less. I've also lost weight from having better portion control and feeling more satisfied. Definitely nice bonuses I did not expect when I got a sous vide machine to make better food.

Understanding the food safety behind sous vide cooking is a good place to start. Watch this video a few times and study it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FH9V8Dg86Zw

For more knowledge, listen to the catalog of the podcast Cooking Issues. Lots of info nuggets about sous vide along with many other aspects of technical cooking. And it's a hilarious show too.

This may only apply to novice cooks, but knowing how to cook an assortment of sides to go along with the sous vide proteins helps. I've been really enjoying butternut squash puree lately. Other go-tos are mashed potatoes, sauteed vegetables, roasted vegetables, and salad + dressing. As crazy as it sounds, when done right microwaved vegetables are great too!

Bonus: some of my favorite non-meat things to do sous vide:

• eggs Benedict
  
• ice cream
  
• creme brulee
  
  All crowd pleasers. Especially the creme brulee with the theatrics of a torch.
  
  Edit: I forgot to include what I learned about searing.
  
  
• Use a high temp oil like sunflower seed oil or avocado
  
• Get an ir thermometer ($13 on Amazon) and wait till your cast iron pan gets up to 550 before starting
  
• This is my preferred method for searing (skip to 4:40. Note they skipped the important power towel pat down in this video): https://www.facebook.com/Chefsteps/videos/vl.1739587399641454/1135229953181732/
  

If you don't have digital thermometers inside of your cage or a temperature checking thermal gun (something like this https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY/ref=zg_bs_9931459011_6/139-0586439-0036854?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92JFJMYZYZGMZY071HNT), do yourself a favor and get one. It takes the guesswork and anxiety out of making sure they have a good temperature gradient. If you go with digital thermometers inside the cage, you need one that can read two different temperatures (can't find the exact one I used previously, but it was something like this https://www.acurite.com/indoor-outdoor-thermometer-with-probe.html) or two within the cage (they do make extremely small ones). You should also get a humidity gauge, again digital is better. Currently I use one humidity gauge in the center of each enclosure and a thermometer gun.

Do not use the little plastic thermometers/humidity gauges that stick to the side of the glass, aside from them being less accurate they can come off and stick to your snake, which is no good.

Check for any weak points in your enclosure often. If there is mesh, make sure there are no holes or stretched spots, they are escape artists and even if they don't escape, can hurt themselves in the attempt. Lids should be secured at all times you don't have eyes on the cage.

Feeding inside or outside of the cage is a hot button issue and I won't recommend one way or another, but I will say if you feed in cage, be careful about bedding ingestion, it can cause impaction (bowels becoming obstructed with indigestible material). If you feel your snake is ingesting bedding when you feed, try making sure the food item is completely dry when you put it in and also laying down something to feed on, like flat rocks (what I personally use), a paper plate, regular plate, or newspaper. Avoid paper towels, if blood gets on it, snake could ingest that too.

Make sure to clean any new cage decor, I use regular soap and water and rinse VERY well for everything that isn't porous. That can get a little tricky, but google "How to clean *insert the thing you are trying to clean*".

Clean water regularly. Regular handling (multiple short sessions is better than longer sessions) is the key to taming them down if they are a little wild (which really depends on age and previous home handling, younger snakes tend to be more nippy than adults). Give the snake a decent amount of time to acclimate to the enclosure before you start working on getting them used to you by handling, most I have heard say a week. Don't handle for around 24 hours after feeding.

Oh, and enjoy your new buddy!

That is about all I can think of at the moment, feel free to ask specific questions if you have them. :)

You're welcome.

Regarding the IR thermometer. Ebay Germany has some pretty competitive pricing, but it looks like it all ships from China, which is going to take quite a while.

Budget can be a bit of a barrier to achieving great pizza, but intellect and passion can go a very long way. I have no doubt that you'll do great.

https://www.amazon.de/Helect-Digitale-Thermometer-Pyrometer-Beleuchtung/dp/B071NBJJ2Q/

The price on this is excellent, as is the peak temp- if you ever get your hands on a Neapolitan capable oven, this goes high enough to take readings of the hearth. As I'm sure you're aware, an IR thermometer is only going to be available online. You might be able to shave off a couple Euros with a lower peak temp- 350C will suit your present needs. Just get the cheapest one that you can find that will be delivered to you in a reasonable amount of time.

I'm also sure that you've seen my steel plate buying guide. The only difference for Germans is that you'll be asking for 'mild steel' or 3.3214 aluminum. The instructions for googling distributors are the same. Google 'steel near (my town)' or 'aluminum near (my town)' to get a list of distributors/fabricators and then start making calls. We'll know more once you take IR readings, but, for now, since your oven is borderline for steel, I'd price 1.5cm cm for the steel and, since it's on the hot side for aluminum, price 2cm for that.

Don't give up on local tomatoes and local mozzarella. San Marzanos, at least the SMs here in the U.S., tend to be very hit or miss. You should be able to walk into an average German supermarket and come out with a can of quality Italian tomatoes, if possible, crushed. Stay away from any tomato in clear glass. Also, don't be afraid of generic shrink wrapped mozzarella chunks. A place like Aldi should have one or two options. Pre-grated cheese is very far from ideal, but if that's all you have, I can help you work with it.

It will cost a bit more, but try to keep your eye out for scamorza. That's longer aged mozzarella, and nothing can touch it on pizza. Just make sure it's the unsmoked scamorza.

This is somewhat groundbreaking territory you're embarking on here. Only a couple of German redditors have taken this path (/u/ts_asum is a trailblazer), so a public discussion might be helpful to other Germans (and other Europeans, in general), but I'm fine with private questions as well.

TL;DR: The easiest way you can show the greenhouse effect is to have two jars. Fill one jar with CO2 and fill another one with regular atmosphere. Leave them out in the sun, and the CO2 jar will become much hotter than the regular jar. You can easily generate CO2 by combining vinegar and baking soda inside a bottle, or you can use water and alka-seltzer tablets (which are just a dry powdered acid and baking soda that only react when wet). If you're using a bottle with a screw-on cap you need to be careful not to generate too much gas or you've essentially made a pressure bomb.

You can see someone do this exact experiment on Youtube. Just the first guy who pops up for my search:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwtt51gvaJQ

Explanation is below:

The earth radiates heat away through infrared radiation (called black-body radiation). This infrared radiation is the same thing as light rays, but the wavelength is longer so our eyes can't see it. All objects emit some infrared radiation, but warmer objects emit more. This is the principle of the thermal camera- which is specially made so it can pick up and "see" those infrared rays. These are useful because hotter objects (like warm blooded humans, animals, light bulbs, etc.) are brighter than background objects. Home inspectors love these because it lets you find drafts in your home or faulty wiring. The police love these because people stand out clear as day, even in the middle of night or hiding in a bush (since they're warmer than the bush).

https://youtu.be/rBnYtEYMW-Y?t=196

The key to understanding the greenhouse effect is understanding that carbon dioxide is opaque to infrared light. Carbon dioxide absorbs infrared light, while most of the rest of the atmosphere just allows this light to sail through and escape to space.

You've seen this effect in action with visible light if you've ever left something black out in the sun. Black objects absorb light and get incredibly hot during the day. Bright white objects reflect light and stay much cooler. A really simple experiment you can do is to find a place where black asphalt runs up against a white sidewalk. Go out in the middle of the day and put your hand on both- the black asphalt will be much hotter. For bonus points you can get a cheap touch-less thermometer to confirm your results- point your thermometer at all sorts of things and figure out what gets hottest. You can find these online or in hardware stores for $15 or so.

https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY/ref=zg_bs_9931459011_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSR6YWEN6WBT7DM6H6C6

For something more controlled, wrap a jar of water in a black plastic bag or in black construction paper and leave it in the sun. Then, wrap another jar in a white plastic bag or in white construction paper and do the same. Go out in the middle of the day and feel them both- the black will be hotter.

Carbon dioxide acts the same way. It absorbs the invisible infrared rays, while regular atmosphere does not. The result of more carbon dioxide is that more infrared light is absorbed, and the atmosphere gets hotter than it would be otherwise. You can easily see this happen in action by filling a bottle with CO2 and comparing it to a non-CO2 bottle, as discussed above.

what type of thermometer/hygrometer are you using, analog or digital? where exactly are you measuring the temperature? on the wall? on top of the substrate? on the floor beneath the substrate? a UTH that is not regulated by a thermostat will run somewhere between 100 and 200 F. you need a thermostat, like this. the probe can be sandwiched between the UTH and the outside of the enclosure, or it can be placed inside the enclosure secured to the floor by hot gluing the probe to the floor. you should have an infrared thermometer, like this, to accurately spot-check the temperature anywhere in the enclosure, which will help ensure your thermostat is on the right setting to maintain a floor temperature of 90 F. if your cool/ambient temperature is below 75 F [with 80 F being the ideal] you'll need some sort of supplemental heat source like a second UTH run on its own thermostat, a radiant heat panel, or a ceramic heat emitter.

glass tanks are not great enclosures for ball pythons. the glass doesn't retain heat, and the screen lid allows too much air flow to retain any humidity. glass tanks can work, but it's an uphill battle of modification, monitoring, and maintenance. plastic storage tubs or pvc reptile cages are much more suitable for BPs. plastic is a much better insulator for heat, and the minimal air flow means you should be able to maintain 50%+ humidity with no special efforts. substrates like aspen are very dry and will contribute to low humidity, though, so you may want to switch to something more moisture friendly like cypress mulch. going backto enclosure types, i personally have one BP in a 74qt sterilite underbed tub secured with a pair of luggage straps, and my other two are in pvc cages from boaphile plastics. tubs aren't pretty, but they're cheap and effective. pvc cages are nice to look at, but they cost somewhere between $150 and $350 depending on which manufacturer you buy from and what size you get.

even without knowing how much your BP weighs, i can tell you that you're severely underfeeding her. a hatchling BP is capable of eating prey the size of an adult mouse. at two years old, she should be big enough to eat small or medium rats. get a digital kitchen scale to weigh her. right now, while she's growing, she should be eating approximately 15% of her own weight, though you'll want to build up to that gradually so you don't shock her system. you'll also want to switch to appropriately sized rats ASAP, because feeding several mice per meal is impractical at best and just not going to happen at worst. on rare occasions, a BP will just take a rat with no hesitation, but in most cases they won't eat it because they don't recognize it as food. i wrote a simple breakdown of how to switch a BP from mice to rats here. you won't find rats that are smaller than small adults in places like petco, petsmart, etc, so you may need to find a different rodent supplier if she's not ready for smalls yet.

your hides are inadequate. there should be two, one for the warm side and one for the cool side, that are snug [little/no empty space around the snake], enclosed [one entrance, snake is actually hidden], and identical [except for temperature]. this is VERY important to fix. your snake needs to be able to feel secure and be able to thermoregulate comfortably. hides like this are ideal. half logs are not appropriate.

regarding your snake biting you: she's immensely stressed. everything from your poor enclosure, being underfed, being moved to a feeding tub, all of these things are contributing to her being stressed, scared, and defensive. right now, you need to forget about handling her unless you're taking her out to weigh her. she should be fed inside the enclosure, and she should not be handled at all for your own pleasure until she is 100% healthy.

Read the care guide in the sidebar, even if it's overwhelming. Read it all, read it twice, commit it to memory. If you truly care about the well being of the animal then this is going to be your go to guide, while we're always here to answer other questions. Also, you mention only getting one now because you're going to be free for the next dew months. I just want to make sure you understand that you're committing to a 15+ year responsibility here. 15 years if preparing and offering food daily, 15 years of socializing, 15 years of new UVB lights every 6-12 months and heat bulbs more frequently, 15 years of vet visits. If you think you can handle it that's awesome! I just don't want to see the animal end up in the same situation it was already in because you got over eager with your free time. Here are the basic necessities and the best place to buy them:

UVB - Fixture + Bulb

Supplements - Calcium + Multivitamin

Temperature - IR Temp Gun + Ambient Thermometer / Hygrometer

Heat Bulb - Go to Lowes / Home Depot/ Etc... and look for PAR38 Halogen Flood lights. Buy a few different wattage to see which gives you the proper temperature. Direct basking temp (check with IR Gun) should be no 105f - 110f. Once you find the bulb that works you can return the rest and you'll always know which wattage you need in the future.

Food - Superworms are not a staple and should only be fed as treats. Dubia are ideal and can be purchased here. Crickets, BSFL, and other treat worms can be purchased here. Buy online, you will save a lot of money. If the animal is as young as you think then he should be eating 80+ feeder insects every single day.

Substrate - Pick up some slate tile, shelf liner, or contact paper while you're at the hardware store. Do not use a lose substrate or reptile carpet.

Everything looks good, but a little feedback.

First with your UVB Light unit, I see that you have selected a double bulb unit. In addition to the bulbs being quite expensive, the beardie doesn't need two of them in their cage. One is perfectly sufficient, so save your money and at least get a single bulb fixture. Also, feel free to use a dedicated fixture if you want, but a standard cheap household fixture like this is just fine. I paid $15 for this at my local store instead of a "reptile" fixture for $60. Edit: I just noticed you're going with a 4ft wide viv, so that may be why you're doing the 2 lamps fixture. If thats the case, disregard my comments about you not needing the second bulb. The standard rule is 2/3rds the length of the viv should be ran with uvb lamps so you may be on track.

Secondly, the 2 temp gauges are okay, but the stick on ones are known to be wildly inaccurate (especially since the thermometer will not be on the beardies basking spot). I don't even have thermometers in my viv, I decided to use this to monitor temps and it has been great. Especially as you move the furniture around the viv getting your setup finalized.

Third, you'll want a humidity gauge in there for sure. As you put food and water and whatnot in the viv, it can raise the humidity too high and cause respiratory infections. In fact they get a lot of their hydration from veggies and fruits so you may want to forego a water dish altogether (they're desert animals, after all). A lot of times they just poop in their water dish anyway.

Fourth, I'm assuming by the double dome fixture you're planning on a ceramic heater. Take a look at the lamp stand I posted in another comment so you can lift the lamps up away from the screen if needed. By the time you put something for him to bask on, he may be 12-14 inches in the air, you don't want the lamps only a few inches away or you may cook your lizard. I only have mine up in the air a couple inches, but it was necessary. When the lamps were resting on the screen his basking spot was up over 120 degrees. I can't tell from the website, but if your viv is not a screened top, the lamp stand may not work and if that's the case, your solution will be to either buy higher/lower wattage bulbs as needed, or maybe a dimmer.

Lastly, don't forget a reptile light timer. Cut corners somewhere to get one, but it will make your life so much easier and your beardie life so much less stressful.

Edit: No upvotes yet after all this typing? Help me out!! 😂😂

If that's all you're worried about, just go electric.

A thermometor gun runs you around $20, I've linked to one <$15 but can't attest to its quality. That's a drop in the bucket compared to anything else R/C will cost you. (A long-running battery will run you Closer to $30.) (Also, I love this E-bay seller. Highly recommend.) In general, a higher run time is achieved by having more mAh in a battery Usually 4,000 mAh is more than enough, especially if you have two or more batteries.)

If you find your motor getting too hot, you can buy a heatsync for it. Anything like this will work fine, even if it doesn't have a fan. Modifying the chassis to fit something like this can also be fun, if you're into it.

Also, here's a rundown on LiPo batteries, if you want to read in on them. It may seem like a lot to take in, but I promise that it's much simpler than a nitro engine, especially if you're just getting into the hobby.

Oh, and one more thing: if you don't want to deal with the relatively complicated LiPo batteries, you can simply power your car of choice with a NiMh battery, though these are generally more expensive (and offer lower performance) compared to a LiPo with the same mAh (run time). As a tradeoff, they are more durable, less volatile, and are much more of a "charge and forget" technology.

Feel free to ask around if you have any questions, the sub isn't very active but it never hurts to ask :)

Ill try to go over your concerns, i hate quote posts but here we go.

>so I got the 40 gallon

Good choice

> Warm Light

Consider that your dragon will need temps from 90 - 100f 10 hours a day in his basking spot down to no lower than the upper 70's in his chilling spot. Buy [This](https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer- Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=sr_1_3? ie=UTF8&qid=1482273280&sr=8-3&keywords=ir+thermometer+gun) no really, go buy it now.

If that bulb which sounds like its one of the little spotlights can keep your tank to that temp then great, if not you want to look at heating solutions, a ceramic heat bulb is a favourite, relatively low cost and high heat out put, very high so be careful ive clocked mine at over 220f.

> I set everything up including adding the sand to the bottom

Nope. I mean shes your pet but sand is harmful, especially to a young lizard, you will notice they lick EVERYTHING this means all that sand may build up and cause compaction, which is where the content of the gullet presses against the spinal cord eventually severing it. Key Hint: Never feed your lizard a item of food larger than the space between its eyes.

I would use kitchen paper for now as she will be a little poop monster but eventually switch out to tile, you can use chia seeds or the like as a bathing area for her to dig.

The size of the tank can be a problem, just slide a cardboard divider in half the tank, you will be taking it out soon enough.

Now, regarding food. In the juvenile stage you should be feeding her exclusively protein based foods, insects, then after a few months move to some greens uptill adulthood where it should be no more than 80% greens to 20% insects.

This si where it gets fun, those dried flukers insects you bought, go throw them away, one of the largest problems with keeping dragons is hydrating them they dont really drink, they absorb moisture through their food and skin, feeding them dried food means they have to use moisture to digest it, so rather than be a gain its a loss, im surprised they even sell that trash.

What i and many would reccomend is the good old dubia blaptica. The NUMBER one best feeder and the worlds worst roach. Many of us keep a small colony of these things as free feeders as you will notice the cost of insects is going to be one of the highest, there are many many good sites online to guide you in this process, in the meantime try to avoid crickets, they smell and are noisy.

UV light wise, as long as it is a strip light and INSIDE the tank (the UVB she needs is 99% reflected by glass) and she can be in bright direct light for at least 10 hours a day she will be fine.

A couple of quick questions. How is her warm side heated? Under-tank heating is pretty much required, but supplemental heat from lights or a CHE can be added as needed. Be sure to monitor the temps for a couple days after adding supplemental heat, to make sure you aren't overheating your leo. You can get a lamp dimmer from Home Depot (or maybe even Wal-mart) to dial back the heat as needed.

How are you monitoring temperatures? I strongly recommend an infrared temp gun to measure surface temps rather than air temps. Especially on the warm side, surface temps are the most important--leos absorb heat through their belly to power their digestive process. As you know, insufficient surface temps will slow or halt digestion, and your leo will not eat.

How does Luna look? Is she stick thin, or a little fat? Post a picture if you can. If her weight is good, she's fine to go a week or two without food. Perhaps she doesn't need to eat as much as you're trying to feed her, and she's rejecting food because she isn't hungry? If she looks healthy enough for it, give her a dish of mealworms (don't let crickets run loose in her enclosure--they will bite her and cause infection) and otherwise don't feed her. If everything else is good, she will eventually get hungry and eat the food available.

Remember, as cold blooded animals, reptiles don't need to burn calories to maintain their body temps. Therefore, they can eat a surprisingly small amount. Growing hatchlings and juveniles actually eat far more than adults.

I'm probably the 30th person to suggest this, but if he's into beer and science and technology AND DIY, you seriously need to consider homebrewing.

You need to figure out if you want to bottle or keg, but I would ONLY suggest kegging, because bottling is dangerous (if you have too much sugar and hungry yeast, your bottles will explode). If you DO want to homebrew, I would suggest getting a kegerator and soda kegs. It's relatively compact, can hold up to 10 gallons if you set up two soda kegs, and has wheels.

You'll need a 6 gallon glass carboy with a lifting harness. I wouldn't suggest using the metal rim grip kind because it chipped our carboy. The nylon harness you see in this picture would be a good substitute, it just makes it so you can more easiliy lift 5 gallons of liquid. You'll also need a bubbler plug, which is very inexpensive. Probably the cheapest thing, aside from the hops bags.

You'll also need a thermometer (infrared is a better option than a dip thermometer because it'll protect your hands better)

If you're going with a kegerator, you'll need CO^2, which they usually sell and fill at the homebrew store.

You'll also need a giant, stainless steel kettle. Actually if you buy a turkey frying kit, it has everything you'll need except a propane tank (which you can rent at the grocery store).

The most important object though, is probably an auto siphon

You'll also need sanitizing powder. You can use bleach, but then you run the risk of bleaching other stuff.

They should have all this stuff at your homebrew store, and definitely ask them for help. They'll also have recipes there you can grab for free, and can suggest a good recipe for beginners based on what type of beer he likes.

Everything Rupert said. Youll need at least two hides (one on the cool side, one on the hot), bedding they can burrow in (like aspen shavings), a wide and shallow water bowl, and you need an appropriate heat gradient in your tank. I'd reccomend purchasing a temperature gun (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-contact/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=pd_aw_lpo_328_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B8X0RMRJVYPW27N07V3X), so that you can check the temperautures all around your tank while you set it up. I'd reccomend setting everything up and letting it run for at least a week or so while you ensure that everything is working smoothly before adding a snake to it. Google either "california king snake caresheet" or "corn snake care sheet" and read through the results for specifics of what they'd need. Care for both is relatively simple and nearly the same, and either would make a good beginner snake. I'd also add branches to climb on (that they may or may not use much, depending on your snake), and lots of things to clutter up the tank (hides, foliage, various decor). The more clutter, the more secure your snake feels. But I will warn you, baby snakes won't be seen much, amd they're very flighty. The first year or so with either of those your tank will look like it's empty 99% of the time, and they'll basically try to run away every time you get them out. But they'll warm up to you as they get bigger, and my corn (whose nearing three) is one of my favorite pets I've ever had. Hmm, what else. I'd reccomend feeding them frozen/thawed mice that you've warmed up instead of live mice. You can get them at nearly every pet store or you can buy them in bulk. Google snake mice injuries or look through this sub for pictures of mice attacks to see why, they can mess an animal up. Don't take your snake out of the enclosure to feed, cage aggression is a myth as long as you hold them sometimes. The snake will need a tank that's about 40 gallons when it's an adult, I wouldn't reccomend keeping them in a 20 long forever like some people say. Don't forget a thermostat, it could save a snakes life. It's absolutely necessary if you use an under tank heater. Don't ever, for ANY reason, leave your lid off of the tank. Not even for a second. There's also no reason to not have snake clips for the tank, or to leave any hole at all in the tank. They can escape so easily. And don't put any tape in the enclosure at all. Super glue and a hot glue gun are your best friends (as long as those aren't applied to the snake or put in the enclosure before dry), and tape of any sort will rip the scales off of your friend and leave nasty wounds.

I guess people want to know a little more. There's plenty of tutorials online, so do some google work if you want a more in-depth description.

Materials/Tools:

• Kydex V .080" (I got 12"x12" 8pack on amazon)
  
• Balsa wood (local hardware or craft store, I got mine at Menards)
  
• Clip (Pick which one you like, I found a 2 pack with hardware on amazon)
  
• Painters tape (had some lying around)
  
• vacuum food bags (You can use this or a foam press or zip-lock bag if you're careful)
  
• IR thermometer (I got one on amazon for 14, but you can find cheaper ones for sub $10)
  
• Dremmel or bandsaw
  
• Sandpaper (either hand sand or belt sander or sander attachment for dremel)
  
• heatgun for loosening a few places
  
  Process:
  
  
• Use the balsa wood to cover spots you don't want the holster to be formed in. I covered up the trigger area, the right side of the breech where most pistols eject casings, a line from the front to rear sights, and a line back from the slide release.
  
• Set your gun down on one of the kydex sheets to mark out how much material you need. I used a little less than half of one of the sheets. I then did a loose guess of "roll the gun over to see how far I need to go", and cut off what I needed.
  
• Get your vacuum bag or foam press or gallon zip-lock back ready. I think the food vacuum bags are easiest, but if you don't have one lying around, I've heard you can use a zip-lock bag, a rag, and a floor vacuum with a hose. Most tutorials online use a foam press. I'd say this gives you the best results, but costs the most, and requires replacing the foam after 5-10 holsters.
  
• Heat up the kydex to the proper temperature (The kydex V I linked I think forms best at 300-315), use the IR gun to get the temperature right. If you go too hot, the kydex will "burn", it gets all shiny (The stuff linked "burns" probably around 360-380).
  
• Once it gets up to temperature, pull it out, wrap your gun with it, and compress it. The kydex I linked has a shiny and a matte side. I used it with the matte side out, but if you like a glossy look, go for it. Like I said, I used a vacuum food bag (they're safe to use in the oven, so it can handle 320 degree plastic), your mileage will vary. If you use a zip-lock bag, you might need to put a rag around it so it doesn't melt the bag
  
• Let cool. Once cooled down, anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes (depends if you use your actual gun or a mold gun, and if you use foam or etc). You can use the IR reader to see what temp it is, under 140 should be good, but other spots may be warmer. The gun acts as a heatsink. The hottest spot is where the kydex is all by it's lonesome.
  
• Pull your gun out and start going to work
  
• I used a bandsaw to cut out the general shape, and a dremel with a sanding head to get it just right.
  
• Sand to your heart's content.
  
• You may need to reheat the trigger area specifically if you're having trouble pulling the firearm out. I used my heatgun on low.
  
• Decide where you want to mount your clip(s). If you want to mount your clips where the gun is, before you mold, put some balsa wood there so the hardware doesn't scratch your gun.
  
• Drill holes for the hardware. I used a 13/64 bit which worked perfectly for my hardware which is supposedly 1/4, but use what ever bit you need for whatever hardware your clip needs.
  
• Make sure you have positive retention, but not so much where you can't pull the gun out. Kydex lets the gun out much easier with a quick pull, rather than a lengthy one. The main area for catching is the trigger guard. What ever is catching, heat it up just enough with the heatgun for it to open up.
  
  And then you're basically all done. It took me probably an hour or less. Total cost for one holster (because I was able to make 2 holsters off of one 12"x12" sheet), was about $6-$7, with the bulk of the cost being the clips. I'll try and answer any other questions others have.

Okay, I was on mobile earlier so I couldn't tell you everything I wanted to. Those stick-on thermometers aren't very reliable and they measure the ambient temperature - you need to be able to measure the temperature on his basking spot. I use one of these which are pretty cheap from amazon. His basking spot should be right around 105F. It is pretty important that you get a good thermometer and find a bulb that gives you the correct temperatures.

The other issue is his UVB lights. Those tank kits usually come with coil UVB bulbs, which do not give out adequate UVB for beardies and have been known to cause eye problems as well. This ReptiSUN 10.0 bulb is the one you need for a 40 gallon tank. It will fit in this plug-in fixture (the plastic cover needs to be removed and thrown away). This thread on bd.org explains how to set up proper lighting. I highly recommend reading through this care guide to double-check the rest of your setup and husbandry.

Please let me know how Hagrid is doing and if you have any other questions! :)

I've done that as well. But I found that with just the light on, the temp can get to the 90-100F range over a couple hours in my cheap apartment oven. I cooked some starter that way. I've had better success with a tiny heat pad used for reptiles.The tiny 4-watt one is still pretty hot, but with some dish towels placed on top, it works really well.

I use one of these to monitor the temp. It's kinda awesome and fun.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JA3BMDW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

I left some comments on the imgur album, but overall it was a great success. It was my first time making pizza and learned couple things along the way.

• Bricks are great in a pinch, but if you have small spacers like these (or get some from here). It'll allow more heat distribution by having an air gap.
  
• Too low in BGE = scorch the bottom of the pizza; Too High in BGE = scorch the top of the pizza
  
• Less toppings/sauce = higher temp (dome ~700F/ plate ~450F) = low cook time (Neapolitan style)
  
• More toppings/sauce = lower temp (dome ~500F/ plate ~300F) = long cook time (american style)
  
• Cornmeal is key to getting pizza on and off.
  
• As temperature goes down, each pizza took longer to make. 1st pizza was around ~4min, 2nd pizza was around 6 minute, so on. I had to refuel to get it back up to 700F after 4th pizza.
  
  Specs:
  
  
• Medium Big Green Egg
  
• 12.5'' pizza stone
  
• ~8 inch personal pizzas
  
  Pizza stone I used
  
  Infrared Thermometer
  
  Can't wait to try it again next weekend! Send me some more tips!

When it comes to heating, the most important thing is to provide a regulated heat source. An under-tank heater (UTH) is superior to any sort of bulb/lamp because they don't negatively affect humidity. However, any heat source needs to be regulated by a thermostat because they can get too hot and cause burns otherwise.

So here's how you do it... Get the UTH and place it under his enclosure (btw what type of housing are you using?). Connect it to the thermostat, and sandwich the probe between the pad and bottom of the cage. (If the probe is too bulky and you don't have enough clearance to do this, you can also secure it to the inside of the cage, over the heat pad with some hot glue - don't use tape!) You might have to play around with the temperature settings on the thermostat to find a good temp that penetrates the bottom of the cage. For this reason, a temperature gun is very useful - those little adhesive or analog thermometers sold in pet shops are useless garbage, don't even waste your money on them.

He might strike out of fear. It does sound like he was in a defensive posture. Everything is very new to him, and he likely feels very insecure. This just comes with the territory, and he'll get used to you as time goes on. It's generally recommended to avoid handling a new snake until they are eating consistently, though it's fine to make an exception if you need to fix part of the habitat or clean poop.

If he does bite you out of fear (a quick tag and release), you'll find that it actually doesn't really hurt much! The suddenness of the strike can be the most jarring part; their teeth are small and weak, and it kind of just feels like a mild papercut :)

If he bites you out of a feeding response (firm bite while attempting to constrict your hand), do not attempt to pull him off. You'll break his teeth off in your hand, and it will feel very shitty to both you and him. Just stay calm, and use a Q-tip to dab rubbing alcohol, Listerine, or vodka on his gums or under his nostrils. That usually makes them release immediately.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help you with :)

pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.

you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)

same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)

if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things

so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.

i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.

The directions on the site are pretty clear regarding the stir fry pan.

If you have difficulty judging temperature I recommend getting one of those infrared thermometer guns:

Something similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Temperature-Functional/dp/B00QYX6F5G

Then you just point and read.

Here are the use directions from the website for the nonstick stir fry pan:

-=-=-=-=-

GETTING STARTED
Remove all packaging and labels. Wash the pan in hot, soapy water. Rinse and dry thoroughly.
Condition the interior nonstick cooking surface by rubbing a film of vegetable or corn oil over the entire cooking surface with a paper towel. Rinse the pan with hot water and dry thoroughly. The pan is now ready for use.
Occasional re-conditioning will help protect the surface and promote a longer life. Do not condition the black exterior.


BEFORE FIRST USE

Remove all packaging and labels. Wash the pan in hot, soapy water, then rinse and dry thoroughly. Your pan is now ready to be used and does not require any further preparation.
When frying in an uncoated pan, season the food only after searing on the hot surface. Turn food only when the surface has seared and is easily released. Reduce the temperature after searing.


HEAT RECOMMENDATIONS

Use medium and low heat settings for the majority of cooking on all heat sources, and allow the pan to heat gradually and evenly.
When searing meat, poultry or fish, a medium high heat can be used initially, but once the pan is hot and the food added, the heat should be lowered.


The pan should never be used on the highest heat setting for either preheating or cooking. Excessive surface temperatures will damage the nonstick cooking surface. See section on details of misuse.
Always use a stovetop burner that is similar in size to the base of the pan. Gas flames must always be confined to the base area and never extend up the sidewalls of the pan.


On any glass-topped stove always lift the pan to move it. Never slide the pan, as this may cause damage to the stovetop or the base of the pan.


The maximum safe temperature for oven use is 500°F / 260°C. When used under a hot broiler there should be a minimum distance of two inches (5cm) between the heat source and the top rim of the pan.



TOOLS TO USE

Le Creuset Silicone Tools are recommended. You can also use wooden or heat-resistant plastic tools.


Metal tools, spoons or balloon whisks may be used with care, but should not be used harshly or scraped over the nonstick surface. Do not knock these on the top rim of the pan. Knives or other utensils with sharp edges should never be used to cut foods on the nonstick surface. Hand-held electric or battery-operated beaters should not be used on the nonstick surface.


Always use an oven mitt or silicone Cool Tool™ when handling a hot pan during and after cooking.


OILS AND FATS

Add a little oil or fat to the cooking surface before heating begins. This will improve the flavor and browning of foods. At no time should the oil or fat become hot enough to smoke. If this occurs, cool the pan before proceeding. For fat-free cooking, preheat the pan on a medium heat setting for approximately two minutes before adding the food.


Do not leave the pan unattended during this time or allow the dry nonstick surface to overheat, as permanent damage may occur.


FOOD STORAGE AND MARINATING

Do not store raw, marinating or cooked foods in the pans. The ingredients may damage the surface.


CLEANING AND CARE

Cool the pan for a few minutes before cleaning. Do not plunge a hot pan into cold water.


Only recommended nonstick cleaning pads should be used on the nonstick surfaces. Do not use any metal or abrasive pads or abrasive cleaning agents on any of the surfaces.


The pan is dishwasher-safe, but washing by hand is recommended. Simply wash with hot, soapy water, and rinse and dry thoroughly. If the pan is regularly washed in the dishwasher some darkening of the rivets and outer ring of the base may occur, or a powdery white deposit may form. This is normal and will not affect the performance of the pan. The surface dulling or white deposits can be removed by carefully cleaning the affected areas with a gentle nylon pad and detergent. After cleaning, rinse and dry thoroughly.


Each time the pan is cleaned in the dishwasher, the cooking surface should be re-conditioned with vegetable or corn oil before the next use.


LE CREUSET HEAT-RESISTANT GLASS LIDS

Add another dimension to cooking with a Le Creuset Forged Hard-Anodized pan by using a Le Creuset heat-resistant glass lid. The tempered glass lid allows you to check the recipe without disturbing the cooking progress or temperature. It retains moisture and flavor and converts the pan to one for poaching, braising or casseroling. The lids are oven-safe up to 425°F.


MISUSE OF THE NONSTICK SURFACE

The Le Creuset lifetime warranty does not cover damage to the nonstick surface caused by overheating or scratching.

Overheating: Damage from overheating during cooking is instantly recognizable. The nonstick surface becomes discolored, and in severe cases will blister or peel away from the pan.

Scratching: Score marks or severe scratching caused by heavy use of metal tools is not covered by the warranty. Such damage is permanent and will result in a reduction of the nonstick release performance.

-=-=-=-=-

One thing you'll learn with the ecobee and the heat pump is that you'll have to do a lot of the learning. The thermostat just doesn't have the data needed to figure out the best settings for your particular set up, and there is no "the way" for each system. I highly recommend spending the money on a laser temperature gun to measure the air coming out of your vents to judge whether or not your system is running ok without aux especially once the temps drop below 30 (assuming you change the ecobee defaults for this). Just feeling it won't be enough - once you get in the teens there's a chance you are blowing out 90 degree air. Warm enough to hopefully keep your place warm, but will still feel slightly cool to the touch.

They are pretty damn cheap and now that I have one I went around checking for cold spots, measuring skillet temps, pointing at my wife, etc. Definitely got my twenty bucks worth.

This site has a pretty good explanation of what i am talking about with thermostats.

Unfortunately proportional thermostats are not cheap. A basic model is general >$80 (USD). Herpstat by Spyder Robotics is the most best around from everyone I talk to.

Honestly, before i dropped that kind of $, I would put in a 75 Watt bulb and check temperatures to see if you even need a thermostat. Too hot, try a 50watt and see if that is better.

Re: checking temps. I would suggest one of these they are cheap and fairly accurate.

You can pick up a point and read infrared thermometer for around $30-$60 from most local tool vendors in your area. Typically if they have car repair stuff they will carry them. Something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-AR550-Mini-Infrared/dp/B000MX5Y9C

I mainly print ABS myself, but the concerns I know of with PLA printing are:

1. PLA conducts heat ridiculously well and can sometimes expand inside the extruder bore if you do not have an active cooling fan on the extruder body.
   
2. PLA is sensitive to Humidity much more than ABS, so you will need to take more care to store it in a sealed, preferably desiccant rich environment between prints.
   
3. PLA smells like sugar when you print it, but it does not taste like candy at all. I keep trying to get the PLA producers to fix that but none of them will return my phone calls anymore for some reason... (just kidding)

The temp gun is nice for when you're experimenting with different setups, or if you want to check if you've let the steel reheat enough between pies. There's plenty of reasonably cheap ones on Amazon. I have this one and it seems perfectly adequate.

Imo the steel is best for pretty thin crusts -- thicker needs to be cooked at lower temp for longer (Sicilian-style), or pan-style in some cast iron.

I am one of like 2 people in my works kitchen who uses one of these. Just searched it up on my phone and realized the one my chef bought is over 100$ lmao (This one).

However, my dad uses something closer to This one. But its for his garage and car projects. I Doubt it matters the use right?

Although accuracy may be the play when you drastically change the price like that? idk. lol

When using those things in the past I bundled the cable together with a ziptie and kept the whole thing down in the cage.

What will you be using to heat the enclosure? To be safe, I recommend getting an infared thermometer to double check your temps. Those thermometers you are using have been known to be unreliable and it is good to have something to double check.

Your tank looks great from what I can see. Snakes don't need much, just some places to hide and proper temps/humidity which you seem to have down. You don't NEED a branch for climbing, but if you enjoy seeing them climb around go for it!

All sensorless brushless motors are virtually waterproof but they should still be dried out after being submerged. The best way for me is to run it for a while to let it dry then spraying a little lubricant in afterwards. Do not trust the ESC to be waterproof, that's the mistake I made with mine. There are plenty of videos on Youtube that demonstrate how to do it.

Invest in one of these temp guns because they'll save you more money down the road. Checking by hand isn't very helpful because anything over 120 will feel very hot. Your motor can go up to 180 and the ESC can go up to 160.

I feel like I should apologize for kind of jumping down your throat, I just get irritated when people go to a pet store, talk to one or two people and take their word as fact in regards to caring for a snake that's actually usually a lot more complicated then they probably told you. here are some really good care sheets you should check out before you go shopping and such

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Snakes/Ball-Python/

http://www.royalconstrictordesigns.com/ball-python-care-sheet (this one is super detailed and a bit of a long read

http://www.worldofballpythons.com/python-regius/care-sheet/

just as an example here are the items that I use for my pythons husbandry

thermometer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1BYESU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hygrometer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWWQY82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this is kinda cool because it also checks your ambient temperature and sends the information wirelessly to the console so you can check your husbandry from across the room

thermostat http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

now with those thermostats you're going to set up the probe directly above the glass, directly above where you have the heat pad underneath the tank, it's going to measure ambient temperature. not ground temperature, so it will take some fiddling, make sure to use the temperature gun to check what the ground temps are should be around 90 on the hot end of the tank (they might have told you you can regulate the temperature above the heating pad by the amount of substrate you use, and while that is correct, your ball python will dig to the glass eventually and if it's too hot they could get some pretty nasty burns

the only downside to kind of dividing the tank, is your BP will most likely find their way over to the other side, and by cutting the entire tank in half or whatever you're making a larger percentage of the tank heated by that heat pad. I normally don't like using sterilite tubs for my ball pythons because they used to be my display snakes, but that might be a better option for you until your ball python is large enough for the glass tank or you get a smaller glass tank for them

The Velineon system comes with a VXL ESC that rated for 2S lipos. It's plug and play with your Slash. Replace the motor - throw your pinion on it and mesh the gears - bolt in the esc - plug everything up and you're off to the races. Your batteries should already have the traxxas high current connectors on them.

Glad I could help you - I really like the Velineon motor, you'll enjoy it they are a blast! Not sure what happened to your other motor - sounds like it may have gotten to hot. So probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick yourself up a cheap IR heat gun/sensor. I use a Duratrax Flashpoint but if you have a harbor freight around you they have a gun style on for like $15 or cheaper. Make sure you stay under 200 F on the velineon - which on 2S with stock gearing and tires shouldn't be an issue at all.

If your temp gun has emissivity settings, then you can adjust the number to get an accurate reading on shiny surfaces. But of course if you can't adjust the emissivity, then something black and matte is the best to get a reading from. That bbq paint is a good idea.

I picked up this guy a while back, https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW it great, and allows changing the emissivity setting to get accurate temp across a wide range of materials.

Also make sure you stay fairly close to a 1:1 ratio for your "distance to spot size" or you risk your measuring area to be too wide and may get some inaccurate readings.

Order a thermometer gun. Cheap and accurate. Heat mat goes on the outside of the glass on bottom of tank so they can warm their bellies. Usually they have a sticky side so you can stick it to the bottom of the tank. Keep to one side so theres a warm side and cool side of tank. Reptile carpet or tile is the best substrate- there is a pinned post at the top of the subreddit that has more info.

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Thermometer-Adjustable/dp/B00JCFPODM. Works great and regularly goes on sale for $12. Any options mentioned will work great for checking temps.

also, if you want to know specific temperatures, purchase a laser thermometer, like this (https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Temperature-Functional/dp/B00QYX6F5G). I use something like this to know what temperature my pan is, so that I know it's hot enough for seasoning, or perfect temperature for cooking.

You can check your video ram temps by using something like this. If you don't have a back plate you should be able to point it straight at the chip. I've been thinking about getting those stick on copper heatsinks since my 970 doesn't have a back plate. I'd like to put some better cooling on my (VRM) voltage regulator module chips too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI62HM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002YE3FS4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6ZZE71SQA8XEQK8M9M

I'd recommend a digital temperature gauge with a probe or a temp gun. The temp gun would most likely be best. Downside is temp guns are a bit expensive sometimes but their worth it in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527639624&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=temp+gun&psc=1

This is the temp gun I use but it seems to be currently out of stock.

However this one should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527639624&sr=1-3&keywords=temp+gun

As far as UVB goes I'd get this bulb and fixture for both of the beardies. It will probably be a bit bigger than their current tanks but it'll save money when you have to upgrade each of them to 75 gallons at the very least as that is the minimum for full grown beardies. Although 4x2x2 is preferred. Do note 20 gallons only last a beardie until 6 months of age and then they must be moved to their final enclosure or a 40, 50 or 55 gallon. If you go with the grow out tanks then those will last another 6 months before you need the final enclosure since preferably you want them moved into the final enclosure at 12 months.

https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-T5HO-Standard-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B01B209YQC/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523586973&sr=1-5&keywords=t5+ho+fixture

\^ 34" T5 HO Fixture

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26062-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HKO/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AQU8HKO&pd_rd_r=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&pd_rd_w=GIi1G&pd_rd_wg=oAEwd&psc=1&refRID=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&dpID=31QDwNV8eSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

\^ 34" T5 HO 10.0

I occasionally use one of these to track slurry temp and it hasn't let me down so far. If you're looking for something that will record temperatures for you as you brew, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Testo-Wireless-Thermometer-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B01BP8NFWA) seems to fit the bill.

Good luck!

No worries at all, undertank heater, especially with a wooden ebclosure would want a thermostat just so it doesnt burn. What Ive done ia actually put the heat pad (you can buy these in stores buy Ill make sure to link one) and put tile over it. Tile is a lot safer and ironically more natural to them (arid rocky desert, not really sandy) and will conduct the heat well. To measure temp youll want a digital prob thermometer or what i ususlly recommend more so is a temp gun (will also link). Knowing temps is really important since all their metabolic functions depend on them. You want a 88-90 warm aidd and a 75f cool side. This allows them to regulate themselves.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=heat+pad+reptile

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019TRGYW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503263283&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=temp+gun+for+reptiles&dpPl=1&dpID=41Y5W8Q-7aL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=theromostat+for+reptiles

Ah, yes - he did service the rear brakes as well, on the second to last rotor swap (just before the Brembo rotors).

I have a cheapie infrared thermometer - how hot is too hot for a rotor?

Thanks for the suggestions!

This one is useful for that and many other things. Good value.

I want to buy this IR thermometer for C41 development but its tolerance is ±1.5°C. Is that too much? If so can someone recommend a decent thermometer that's actually accurate?

I use this one and it has never failed. Just gotta make sure you are putting the sensor about an inch from the top of your banger. Don't use the laser to line it up, the laser is only to help aim at a large object from a few feet away!

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-contact/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Temperature+gun&qid=1554348709&s=gateway&sr=8-4

You can use something like this quickly at your local hardware store for super cheap, and you can get them even cheaper from amazon, if you're willing to wait on shipping. Just point it at where you want to measure temps and pull the trigger.

there should be no reason to need any type of light, my house is at 70 and my Ball cage when he was in one stayed at 85ish in a 20 gallon tank, You definetly need a thermostat for the heat pad.
Ignore pretty much everything the pet store told you because most of them dont no crap about reptiles but how to sell a whole lot of stuff you dont need.

I also recommend getting a Infered thermometer similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C but look around they make them cheaper and do just as good.

the heating pad should be on the underside of the tank on the outside glass like so http://www.onlinegeckos.com/basic-leopard-gecko-tank-setup.html

If it’s made for a car with the same engine and header you should be good to go. You just gotta make sure your engine is running the right temps

With that being said keep an eye on your engine temps make sure you keep the engine temperature at least 190 degrees Fahrenheit and don’t let it get above 230 degrees

Get yourself one of these is you don’t already have one Duratrax DTXP3100 Flashpoint Infrared Temperature Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144E8A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uhN4DbC3FF8GG

buy one of these and sleuth out some promising spots on google earth. definitely worth knowing the temp of any pool you're going to jump into.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-contact/dp/B00DMI62HM

No.

Your best bet is to learn a little about HVAC systems. Overall, the concept is simple. A fan blows air across cooled coils and is then circulated through your house.

Problems arise for a variety of reasons, such as:

• Freon leaks. This can usually be detected by frozen-over coils or a complete loss of AC. A tech should make a visit, refill it, add dye, and then let it run for a few days. They will make another call and look around to see where the dye is coming out and determine if it can be repaired. Usually it can be soldered up unless it's in some weird spot. With that said, AC systems are sealed systems just like the AC in your car. They do not need to be "topped up" or are otherwise "a little low on freon". Any tech who tells you that is either scamming you or allowing the system to leak so they can make repeat visits at your expense.
  
  
• Leaks in the ductwork or kinks/blockages. If you have access to the ducts, examine connections and use foil-backed duct tape to seal. If you have damaged flex duct, replace with new insulated flex duct. In one house I lived in, a duct had become disconnected and fell onto the ground in the crawl space. I got in there, put it back together, and suddenly everything was much nicer. I noticed this because I put my hand over each register and one had zero airflow. In another house, the main duct that came off the air handler was bent and crushed. I had another house where the return was crushed when it slid down behind a pipe as the fastener had come loose. AIRFLOW IS IMPORTANT.
  
  
• Dampers that are closed. Dampers are simply flaps/valves that are placed inline inside metal ducts. You can find them by looking for a little arm which should correspond to the angle of the damper. Up/down across the duct means it is closed. Left/right indicates air can flow past the damper. In my old house, each register had a damper about 6" inside the duct. I had to remove the register and put my hand inside to adjust it.
  
  
• Clogged A-coils. This is the radiator-like device inside your air handler (the box inside the house with the blower motor). This can be difficult to inspect, as you need to look inside the cabinet and underneath the coils. If they are clogged with dust and debris, you can either use a gentle brush or an air comb to blow it out with compressed air. Obviously if the coils are restricted, you won't get good air flow, and you won't have good cooling.
  
  
• Poor insulation. I am amazed at how many homes I have seen that have 3" to no insulation in the attic. Short story, blow in at least 12" to 18" of insulation and you will be stunned at the difference in comfort.
  
  
• Leaking doors and windows. Check the weatherstripping on your door and replace as needed. It's cheap. Same for windows.
  
  
• Exposure to sunlight. Sun through windows accounts for something like 50% of heat in summer. Either get curtains that are white on the glass side and dark on the room side, or look into reflective exterior window films or solar screens. Do not use interior reflective window films on double-pane glass as it can cause damage. Alternately, plant fast growing trees to provide shade over your house and around your outside AC compressor. If you can provide 20' of shade around your compressor, it will help it work 10% less or more.
  
  
• Poor HVAC system design. I had one system that had two main trunks coming off the air handler, but one was at the top, and one was on the right side. Air is like water, and travels in the path of least resistance. As a result, probably 70% of the airflow went up to the top duct, and about 30% went to the side duct. As a result, all the rooms served by the side duct had poor airflow. I reconfigured the trunks to come out and then have a perfect 50/50 split.
  
  
• Closing registers does not always work as intended. In fact, it can change the load on the blower motor and reduce efficiency.
  
  
• Undersized or poorly placed returns. In my current house, I have a loft office and it had a 8" return ... at ankle level. 8" is only about 200 CFM, and not really sufficient for getting all the heat out when it's on the floor. I moved it and upgrade to a 10" duct (400 CFM). I achieved an immediate 10 degree drop in temps. I have another return that is oversized but on the north side of the house, and an undersized return in the middle of the house (where it's much warmer). I am going to remove the undersized return and upgrade the small one. This will pull the warm air out of my living space (living, dining, kitchen, and family rooms) instead of a little office near the garage.
  
  I personally found a small handheld FLIR camera was invaluable for finding leaks and problems. For example, I discovered the ceiling in one bedroom of my new house has zero insulation on one half, which is contributing to it being over 80 degrees even though it is not exposed to sunlight.
  
  Edit - I should also mention - many techs won't address many of these issues and instead will push to sell you a new system. I used to be afraid that my 18 year old AC system would die at any time. Well, it lasted 7 years with just a few issues. Now I am of the opinion that I'd rather maintain and fix an old unit rather than replace it. Also, upgrading to a higher SEER unit often is not worth the added expense - it's simply not that much more efficient.
  
  Bottom line? Don't assume your HVAC system has been designed properly. Look at it critically and ask yourself ... "Is this the best way to get air from the air handler to the rooms?"

I can imagine the USB socket busting off the phone mounted ones under actual use.

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll have to get one of these things.

Amazon.com links

TG130 - $199 USD, no image capture [https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ALSO84E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501424183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=FLIR%2Btg130&dpPl=1&dpID=41oghPRgdOL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ALSO84E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501424183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=FLIR%2Btg130&dpPl=1&dpID=41oghPRgdOL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1)

TG165 - $349 USD, save images to SD card https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NXJDQV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501424183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=FLIR%2Btg130&dpPl=1&dpID=41oghPRgdOL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

A couple things that really help with a home set-up:

• Get one of those fancy extra-special private time Detachable Shower Heads. It will vastly improve your washouts ...especially if you're currently just relying on gravity for water pressure.
  
  
• Get a heat gun if you need an intermediate step between your hair dryer and a proper drying unit.
  
  
• No matter what your drying situation, you need to buy an infrared thermometer for curing.
  
  
• Until you get a press, you could consider picking up a ~ 18" x 18" piece of laminated melamine (Home Depot will cut it down for you) and a couple of one-hand clamps. The melamine is heat resistant so you can use it to print and to cure. And with the clamps, you can secure the bottom edge of your screen to the pallet and kind of simulate proper off-contact.

I've been having good luck with these in my enclosures. I have a number of them, and they all agree to within a degree with each other and my other trusted thermometers.

I also use an IR gun style thermometer. I originally had the 981D, but it read like 6 degrees low and the seller replaced it with the 981C which is as accurate as these thermometers typically are (IR reading change by type of materials and the finish on it, which changes emissivity).

Another option over carafoam is flaked oats or flaked wheat. Regarding a better thermometers: I have http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C

But I used to have http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TM25-Waterproof-Temperature-Indicator/dp/B00CDQ28IG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426957897&sr=1-1&keywords=waterproof+probe+thermometer

Both work really well. Maybe get both to double check?

IR thermometers are less than $20 on Amazon. I use one all the time in the kitchen to check the temperature of cast iron before making pizza or steak. Its a worthwhile investment least you'll know if the pan is hot enough.

Like this: Nubee Non Contact Infrared IR Thermometer, Orange/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JCFPODM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-RM.ub0X4J2C4

This is the one I got, works great

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RUPQGW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5G.mub0AB8NWB

Yep, it's a nice tool to have for a lot of different things. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI62HM?ref=emc_b_5_t

I recommend a digital infrared thermometer like this one

You can go on amazon, if you search “temp gun” the top ones are actually the same models that I bought from a head shop. Most people dab between 5 and 700 so I’d get one that can read in that range and maybe a little higher to gauge time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8XCWCb7F8SVZG

This one looks just like mine and I think would do everything you need.

Sure it could be condensation. A non contact thermometer may help you:

https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B009RUPQGW

If that area is cold, the moisture could be condensing on it.

get one of these things
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C
really convenient for checking the temperature of soups when you're heating them up and for making custard. health inspector should be impressed too, they use the same thing.

get one of these things too
http://www.daymarksafety.com/date-coders/
instead of having to write out dates with a sharpie you just click this thing and slap a sticker with the date on a container.

If you find yourself thinking about this a lot, you might want to buy or borrow an infrared laser thermometer. It is inaccurate on reflective surfaces like stainless steel but works well with cast iron. Not something you need to do every time of course, but it'll take the mystery out of a lot of questions.

Heavy cookware and a good thermometer

Great first loaf! I think it took me several attempts just to get to this level.

Over time you'll start getting a feel for how hydrated the dough should be. It just takes some trial and error!

As for your oven temperature, I had the same problem. I eventually got one of these guys to ensure an accurate reading right before putting the oven in.

These work great.
Etekcity Lasergrip 800 Digital Infrared Thermometer Laser Temperature Gun Non-contact -58℉ - 1382℉ (-50℃ to 750℃), Yellow/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI62HM

IR thermometers are super cheap. If you don't own one you're missing out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JCFPODM/

Specialist tools? I'm not referring to one of those FLIR thermal cameras.

I'm referring to one of these cheap-o guns like this: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Non-Contact-Infrared-mometer-Temperature/dp/B00QYX6F5G

We have this one at the lab I work at. I recommend it. It's a laser pointer and it instantly measures the surface temp of whatever the laser is on. I've gotten a reading on the back of a coworker's neck at 40 feet.

Get a laser thermometer... on a cold day, shortly after the sun has set, and its getting really cold outside but still warm inside. Start checking all these nooks and cranny's

It could not be any easier .

[Laser thermometer](Nubee 8380H Non-contact Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun with Laser Sight MAX Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1R8Dyb693VYQJ) costs 10 bucks

And the Vidometer app cost $1.99 if you want the fancy map, Otherwise it is free!! Then you simply upload from the phone.

Man they’re like $15 on Amazon

HDE Non-Contact Infrared Ther mometer Digital Laser Surface Temperature Gun with Backlit LCD Display - Range -26°F to 716°F (-32° to 380° Celsius) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QYX6F5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IT4SCbTM19YFY

I ordered one of these infrared guns from amazon. It allows to measure the surface temperature of hot surfaces.

If you really want to know, you could get an infrared thermometer.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MX5Y9C

Quite simple really. Alton Brown swears by it

UTHs is going to do little to nothing for your ambient temps, they really only heat the surface they touch. You're gonna want a "heat gun" to measure surface temps for it.

Water drops should evaporate within maybe a second on a hot skillet. If you want to be precise, you can get an infrared thermometer.

If you don't want to drop the money on an IR camera or rent one from Homedepot, you can get a laser infrared thermometer for around $15 and do it "manually"

https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY

If the sensor on the card is giving misleading results due to a hardware problem with that sensor then no software tool is going to provide better results. You will need to use something like a non-contact thermometer: https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW

this
https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475072152&sr=8-3&keywords=infrared+thermometer

Just need to understand that any of these contactless thermometers are +/-5 degrees.

https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474395011&sr=8-2&keywords=hand+held+temp+gun

Bet they've been overheating. Buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW

check the temp after it has been on over an hour or two. My enclosures have seen temps over 350 degrees. You could bake a cake in there.

10.90

https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Thermometer-Helect-Non-Contact-Temperature/dp/B071NBJJ2Q/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=temperature+gun&qid=1569601772&s=gateway&smid=A1RI0YHZ8J2HZU&sr=8-4

Just found one for $15

get this

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Non-Contact-Temperature-Instant-read-Emissivity/dp/B019TRGYW2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497666153&sr=8-5&keywords=Infrared+Thermometer

il risultato mi pare perfetto ma mi permetto di suggerire la visione di questo video che permette di standardizzare il procedimento riducendo la possibilità di sbagliare: Carbonara Scientifica.

in riassunto (a memoria, o per lo meno è come faccio io attualmente):

1. cuocere la pasta come al solito
   
2. mettere in padella il guanciale/pancetta senza olio e farlo diventare croccante
   
3. nel frattempo scaldare a bagnomaria l'uovo sbattuto (per 180g di pasta io uso un intero e un tuorlo) e il formaggio (quantità ad occhio) fino a 62.5° continuando a mescolarlo con la frusta (per misurare la temperatura va benissimo questo termometro laser). una volta arrivati a tale temperatura mettere il contenitore dell'uovo a contatto con qualcosa di freddo (anche solo acqua va bene) e continuare a mescolare finché l'uovo non si raffredda, in modo da fermare la cottura
   
4. una volta cotta la pasta spostarla nella padella (a fuoco spento!) del guanciale/pancetta, unire l'uovo e amalgamare il tutto insieme al pepe.

With one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B00QYX6F5G

I should add, you can buy a FLIR TG130 for $200.

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C

Buy a cheap laser thermometer and figure it out for yourself- every device and coil configuration varies.

https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Thermometer-Temperature-Adjustable/dp/B00JA3BMDW/

Here's one close: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JA3BMDW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1463704231&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ir+temperature+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=510Uzei5jZL&ref=plSrch

Here is the mobile version of your link

I got one recently for $180. They have gotten much cheaper.

Edit: on amazon

Hmmm, trying free-hand was actually what made me waste most of my concentrates. It wasn't until I actually got the thermometer that I was able to get proper tokes. I'll try what you said though, 20s heat 50s cool.


Edit: I also don't know if it makes a difference or not with the thermometer, but it actually has two functions, 1 is a laser and the other seems to be some sort of wide band. Here's the exact one just in case. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00QYX6F5G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exo Terra sells a heat lamp and mount
7 inch lamp housing
bracket
The lamp housing supports up to a 150w bulb
And you might want to regulate it with a rheostat
Checking temps regularly with a temp gun

Or you can use a thermostat with the probe on the hot side to regulate the CHE, but I've heard of snakes moving them causing temps to drop or climb, depending.

When you say foam, did you use a spray foam?

Or did you use polyiso?

You can get a cheapo infared gun to find the heat sources. An infared camera is much clearer however.

You can also use window sealers for the door and windows. Not sure how you would seal the garage though.

For anyone looking for a temp gun, this one is a gooder.

I use one all the time for my clear quartz bangers, not sure if its accurate but I hold it directly under or over the banger (within a quarter inch) and get consistent dabs every time at 600°. I haven't timed or burnt a dab in the year I've had it. I also use it to check the temp on my enail, witch is probably more accurate because the coil covers the bottom of the banger.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NZfECb3SGRW7R

You can always use one of these on the heatsink to see if the temps are even remotely close to what it's saying. I don't think your motherboard actually has a CPU temp sensor (how would it? The temp readings from a CPU come from the silicon die, not any part of the motherboard), and may just be misinterpreting the data it's poling the CPU for.

I wouldn't, i dont see any light burns.. if anything maybe a little closer once the stretch is done.

Do you have a ir heat gun? If not i would pick one up, fairly cheap. Canadian tire sells them for under 50 bucks, not sure if your in the usa or canada

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-infrared-thermometer-0574632p.html


HDE Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer Digital Temperature Gun with Laser Functional Range -26 to 716 Degree Fahrenheit (-32 to 380 Degrees Celsius) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QYX6F5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_klnPCbXDC1QEQ

Get a cheap thermo gun and test the walls, ceiling, and door seals for temp spikes. This will reveal air leaks and problem areas. I suspect your metal garage door is the biggest culprit of heat loss. This winter I installed an [insulation kit] (http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-EPS-S-GDIK001-Insulation-Universal/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398097268&sr=8-1&keywords=garage+door+insulation+panels) on my garage door and it kept my garage a few degrees warmer. I'd imagine this would help block out the Texas summer heat too.

OK, I see you took the shield advice. Good.

Schematics

• Still dog's breakfast. This is very hard to follow with the lines unconnected to anything, only labeled. Labels are used to avoid a big mess of wires when you have many of them, not to avoid having to connect anything to the connector in the middle ...
  
  
• Stick with 90 degrees wires. Move text labels out of the wires, so that they don't overlap. Also do move the labels to the actual wires they are for, otherwise it is very misleading - e.g. the 3v3 connections on the multiplexer!
  
  
• 3v3/Vcc connections should be pointing with the arrow upwards, GND down.
  
  
• Label the nets going to the Huzzah connector meaningfully, labels like "2" or "16" are really useless because you don't know what the net is for unless you look up the pinout. Moreover, these numeric labels are easy to confuse with pin numbers! A really wonderful way how to screw up that could make the proverbial magic smoke escape and cost you a lot of money!
  
  
• Not quite sure what is the deal with the MOSFET and LED there? That part of the schematics is really not clear - what are you attempting to achieve? Also the net labeled "USB" makes me wonder what is going on there - normally you don't connect resistors, LEDs or buttons to anything USB. Is that the 5V from the USB connector? Then do label it as "5V" or "Vbus" or something.
  
  
• BTW, if you are using the USB 5V, do keep in mind that the voltage on the USB connector could be anywhere between about 4.4V and 5.25V, depending on hardware and load. Especially the undervoltage (e.g. due to a long USB cable) could be an issue if you are powering circuitry directly from it. Also keep in mind the maximum power draw from a USB port - 500mA - since you are planning to run the ESP module (needs 200mA by itself) and the Neopixels ring (could be hundreds of mA or more, depending on how you are driving it) from it. If you are going to use an USB charger and not communicate with the device over USB then you can ignore the part about the power draw.
  
  
• Re the I2C pull-up resistors - go with 4k7.
  
  
• Re button - you need a pull-up resistor to ensure that the button line has always defined logic level. If you only connect the button to ground, the line will be disconnected (floating) when the button isn't pressed and the CPU will read random data/noise from it. You don't need to put the resistor far away with the LED, you can add the pull-up resistor on the board, in that way you have only two wires going to the button, no need to bring Vcc voltage there too.
  
  
• The multiplexer lacks a decoupling capacitor
  
  
• You are mentioning the Neopixels ring - where is that connected to? There is nothing on the schematics dealing with it.
  
  
• Make sure ERC and DRC checks in Eagle pass - if they don't, your board will likely not work or not be manufacturable! (OTOH, checks passing does not mean that it will work, only that you didn't commit some elementary mistakes)
  
  
  Concerning PCB:
  
  
• You should upload both sides of the board separately, it is very difficult to see the connections on the bottom side of the board when they are covered by the top side.
  
  
• You could have probably moved the majority of the circuit under the Huzzah making the board smaller. However, if you are building this for a specific enclosure where the dimensions are given then ignore this comment.
  
  
• The decoupling capacitors are in the wrong place. They must be placed right next to the chip they belong to. The right-most 100n cap has a trace going across half of the board from what I can see. That makes such capacitor useless.
  
  
• The routing and layout is much better than what you had before, congrats. However - try to avoid running traces across the entire board. That makes the routing more tricky because you block off more space and it also makes it easier for noise to disrupt your signals. E.g. if you have placed the I2C sensors close to the Huzzah I2C pins, you wouldn't have to run the I2C traces across the board. You have a metric ton of space on that board, why don't you move the connectors out of the way? Or move the sensors.
  
  
• Stop mask errors mean that you have something sticking out into the copper layers that shouldn't be there. Sometimes silkscreen can cause that. This post explains how to deal with it: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/122722/stop-mask-errors-in-drc
  
  
  
  Re MLX90614ESF
  
  
• The schematics for MLX90614ESF is incorrect - the wires to the capacitor are not actually connected between ground and Vcc - the dot is not optional! Crossing or only touching lines are not connected (otherwise you would have shorts everywhere!). Also this little bit of schematics is a mess already - why not make the layout in such way that the wires don't overlap the text and move the capacitor symbol to minimize the length of those wires?
  
  
• Hmm, I do wonder what are you trying to actually do that it needs an IR thermometer. This is the sort of sensor used in the contactless thermometers like this one:
  https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-AR550-Mini-Infrared/dp/B000MX5Y9C
  That will need some lens, possibly a laser to aim it (so that you can see what you are measuring/where is it pointing) and it also has quite complex data processing from what I can see. I hope you didn't buy this instead of a regular temperature sensor?
  

Yes, you're fine.

You will need a heat gun. I have this but this lower end one is more than sufficient. I have the more expensive one for curing epoxies and such. I also use it for breaking in new engines or starting engines when it's cold out. I also have a temp gun to check when the engine is heated up.

Check the top of the head next to the glow plug for 180 degrees and then fire it up. If it's an engine that's broken in, I'll just heat it up until it's around 150 on a cold day and get it going. If you don't want to buy a temp gun, just heat the engine up until it's hot enough that you can't hold your finger on it for more than 1-2 seconds without feeling like it's burning you.

Just remember you're going to have to retune as the weather swings to even more extreme colds in the winter or as the weather warms up. Fall/spring are the worst because you tend to have to retune literally every day and sometimes even throughout the day to keep it running.