Reddit mentions: The best thread locking inserts

1.75 inches (so essentially 8/4 lumber) is more than thick enough to attach legs, especially something that small and I assume the legs will be light and simple. Larger lag bolts are proportionate to the weight of the base, I'd say that simple wood screws so long as they have some room to move around (will hear it refereed to as "elongated screw holes" will be more than enough.

Earlier this year I did a large walnut slab dining table, 8/4 at around 50 inches wide and 11 feet long. Had a really beefy cast iron base, I threaded 1/2 hole for lag bolts (for future reference you can thread wood with thread taps, you just have to go really slow going in and in reverse), some people will put metal thread inserts, but I didn't. Each leg probably weighed 75-100lbs if I had to guess. Brought the table into the house and assembled it there for obvious reasons, but we moved it around with a bunch of us and the legs were fine. Half inch lag bolts were probably overkill, my usual is 1/4'' for most of my tables.

Unless your slab is a lot bigger than the picture makes it look as it does lack any size refernce, but I assume the inserts you're talking about are something like this, those are no where near 1.75 inches long, the biggest they have are around 1 inch in height I think. Drilling deep shouldn't have much impact on cracking the wood, unless you're boring into it with a giant auger bit or something.

Sanding depends on many things, mostly how you want to finish it (what oil/varnish/water-based, etc are you using), and what kind of end result are you going for, super buffed out polished glass like finish, really matte finish, etc. First off, 50 grit is probably overkill unless you really need to take material off. If they are going to plane both sides flat you'd porbbaly be fine starting in the 60-100 grit range to take away any machining marks, general rule of thumb is that everything after your lowest grit is just smoothing the surface rather than actually removing any meaningful amount of material. Generally you'll see porgression like this; 60 grit after planer - 100 grit - 150 grit - 220 grit - vaccum up/wipe off dust and apply finish. After that sanding in between the grits depending on what kind of end result you want. If you're looking to just build up a finish, but not really add a polish and try to keep it as matte as possible (obviously avoid a gloss specific varnish then) most people will just stick with 220 and not go higher. For others, often with like a really highly figured wood you'll sand up in between each coat of finish. I've gone as high as like 4,000 grit wet sanding methods, doing like a wax polish on top of that, to get a mirror like glass finish.

There's really no set rule of thumb, but it's more in relation to what your desired result. Also on finishing get 10 professionals in a room and ask them the best way to get a specific desired finish result and you could easily get 10 different answers and none of them would be wrong. We all find the methods that work best for us, after years for a table that will receive some kind of stain (the farmhouse people all want some generic minwax wipe on) I just spray a few coats of water based poly and done. On highly figured stuff I like some kind of varnish (like a wipe on poly), I like the general finishes arm-r-seal brand, but have used minwax wipe on plenty of times. Waterlox is a brand people love, but it's expensive (especially for the gloss as you have to buy a second component) and smells like shit, plus the finishing process with it is more in depth. It definitely penetrates deeper than most brands from my experience, some like that some say it's unnecessary.

Last year I got into trying conversion varnishes (also called "2k poly") which are more common in the automotive industry. Helped a friend install a pup-top bar he did, looked like an epoxy top, but was a bit different, told me it was just 2k poly that he sprayed on. I used that to get a mirror finish on a highly figured slab (has really good durability too), after a base layer of an epoxy resin to bring out the figuring wasn't too hard and for a really large slab table I liked it and hte durability more than lacquer, again some might disagree, say CV's are overly complex, dangerous etc. No one is right or wrong.

Others will swear varnishes take away from the natural properties of the wood and will only stay with the true oils like BLO, tung, danish (technically thats an oil varnish blend). Some guys will still use straight shellac.

What's the end use of this going to be, I assume some kind of side or display table, that woods got some nice figuring and color, I'd personally go with a wiping varnish you could buy at your local home center. you'll have a range of probably matte, satin, semi-gloss, gloss. Matte should be flat or natural with no sheen, (although if you want that then I'd personally head the oil route, danish oil or dewaxed shellac are probably the most straightforward and least likely to give you a headache from personal experience), up to gloss which will have the most sheen. As I said earlier I like to buff out a glossier finish with satin wipe of poly, but I've used gloss brand plenty of time, all really straightforward. Sand it up to 220 hit wipe on, Here's a simple method with wipe on poly. You don't need to go up as high as he did by any means, and before I had nicer sanders/abrasives (you wont find much over 220 grit in the ROS pads at the home depot) I'd go to like 1,500 grit and doing the wet sanding/buffind part by hand. you can feel how smooth it will be after each coat, again some people will never go past 220, some go really high to get a smoother/glossier finish.

Also do you want to keep the bark on or not?

I haven't yet drilled the holes. A forstner bit is a good idea. Hopefully I've got one small enough (these are the ones I bought). E-Z Lok's site says to use a 17/64 drill bit, which I definitely don't have a forstner of. Might have a 3/8, though. Drilling big and using some epoxy is a good idea, but I'd be worried about keeping epoxy out of the internal threads.

I've got some scrap I can test on. Probably the only way to be sure what'll happen. :)

Installing them from the bottom of the board still seems like it might be the easiest route. I'll test a few options and see what works.

Thanks!

Too late for this, but easy outs are NOT for use with seized screws. They are only for use with screws whose head is buggered.

I wrote this up a while back, you should give it a read:

Best tools for removing broken or stripped screws.

As for getting the easy out OUT, there is another option, but you need some crazy tools. Mainly a drill-press stand for your hand held drill, and a hollow, diamond coring bit, like what you would use for drilling a hole through glass or ceramic. If you can cut around the easy out with the coring bit, then you can break it free. Next, you finish over-drilling the hole, and then insert a threaded insert to bring the hole back down to the correct size.

Parts I'm talking about:

Drill guide The drill guide is important because the coring bits will walk all over the place since they don't have a center point. The guide can be fastened, held, etc. in place better, and help guide the bit to where it needs to go.

Core bit
You can also use a more standard bimetallic hole saw, just without the pilot bit installed.

Threadsert (Choose the ID of the original fastener, and find it in SS, not carbon) Don't use a Helicoil, those things are shit. (Speaking from LOTS of experience here...)

Two taps that match the outside threading of the threaded insert. One a taper tap, and one a bottoming tap.

Looks like the brass threads are something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B0026GZU0Q/

3/8" - 16 looks like the right threads, check with your faucet manufacturer though.

Tool this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Drive-Tool-Optional/dp/B00209X86W/

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This is neat, but it does assume you have some tools to make the handles look good. You're resawing the wood with your table saw and getting accurate length cuts with a chop saw. These tools are expensive to own and take up a lot of space.

I think it would be really cool to have a wood laser to put a design on the handle, or I guess you could paint them with chalk paint and change them as you see fit. I will probably do this because I need some better labeling on my keezer.

I got that advice too when I asked around during my own tap handle project and after checking around a bit more, I don't think it is correct, at least not for these inserts which are a little different that the ones in that video.

OP /u/darthKOTOR correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using these inserts, and the manufacturer makes a drive tool that very clearly is designed to insert them with the slots facing out. (Though the method OP uses with the bolt and two nuts drives them much better).

I took a photo at the time illustrating how different the two threaded inserts are. On the right, just one from Home Depot like in the video you linked, and the left is the E-Z Lok brand. Note how different they are. I can definitely see the HD type variety having the slot pre cut the threads like in the video you link, but in the E-Z lok brand, the threads don't even cross the slot in the same way so they don't really work like that.

I use these 2 options for my 3D printed taps. Id do a few tests to see what diameter hole gives you the best fit. Make sure you leave enough body around the holes so you dont crack the handle.

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AJS Beer Tap Handle Standard Ferrule and Hanger Bolt : I use a 3.9mm ⌀ x 23mm hole with at least 3 walls and glue.

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E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length : I use a 7.4mm ⌀ x 17mm hole with at least 4 walls and glue.

These are what you want to mount anything to wood that you might want to remove repeatedly. Basically makes a brass threaded hole wherever you want in the wood. Fantastic little buggers, just be sure you get them in the wood straight.

Well, I have some good and some bad news for you.

The good:

• This is a Majesco Game Gear which has a better screen than the originals and doesn't suffer from the bad capacitors issues!
  
  The bad:
  
  
  
• Some Majesco Game Gears didn't come with the rear screw point and some did. You unfortunately have one that didn't.
  
  Here are some pictures of my two Majesco Game Gear systems, one with the screw hole and one without.
  I opened up the console without the screw point to see the inside and the brass screw insert is not present.
  
  One possibility that you could try is adding the screw insert your self as it is a simple threaded brass insert. You would need to open the Game Gear's case, drill out the plastic in the center of the hole and screw in the threaded insert. The insert linked above is just an example and not the correct size. I don't know the size or thread pitch off hand but it would be easy enough to figure out by taking the attachment screw from the PowerBack to Home Depot / Ace / Lowes or another hardware store where they will have a screw sizing jig. Then just buy an insert of that size at the same store!
  Edit: spelling/formatting

These are cheap, or you can order these and make whatever you like!

E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026GZU0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xrhzDbXQKTEEM

These are far better than t nuts, granted I don't know if this is the right size. Search for knife treaded insert of the size you need.

Well, I bought these, I'm going to pursue setting them up in the next couple of days.

Here's an amazon link if you want to make your own for the inserts.

Taken from /u/janisco 's DIY page on his website that linked here.

> crew inserts and compatible screws

Threaded inserts can be bought in packs of 10s or 100s cheaply, and fit common machine screws that can also be bought cheaply in bulk. These and these for instance. Usually available at your local hardware store as well.

If you plan on doing more than one, it's cheaper to buy them from amazon. Here's a 10 pack for $7.

I would think using a threaded insert and then screwing the standoff into it would work.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026GUEN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_WxzpzbTR0YJFG

However, I have not done this so I can't actually speak to the results of doing this.

3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length

If you google around, the hardest thing about the insert is getting it straight, which, if you don't have access to a drill press, is problematic. As madmatt suggested, a way around this is to drill a slightly bigger hole than needed, add some JB Weld and then add the insert into your handle, place on your faucet, straighten and let cure.

NOTE: You need to close the top of the insert so weld compound isn't getting into the inside of your thread -- you can superglue a circle of some aluminum sheeting or similar to the back hole to close it up. And, generally, just be careful -- you want to weld the insert into the handle, not to your nice shiny perlicks.

• I purchased http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-Christ-Statue-Dashboard-Driver/dp/B000AP5974/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345173521&sr=8-2&keywords=buddy+jesus but I think it was about $7 when I purchased it.
  
• Then I got a table leg from lowes and stained it with a nice mahogany stain I had lying around (same stain as the kegerator wood).
  
• Drilled a hole in the bottom of jesus and used gorilla glue to hold it in place.
  
• Drilled a hole in the table leg and used (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00) from amazon for the tap handle thread.
  
  Did a similar process for the lightsaber tap handles.

You could use some of these and these

I'm not sure of the brand of the insert but it's the kind with knife threads. I made a simple inserter tool with a 3/8" bolt.

To kind of separate my post from your questions here are just some recommendations when kegging.

• buy the o-rings in bulk. You'll see the ones from my spreadsheet that came with at least a hundred of each. silicone for gas side, buna for beer side. Dont need silicone for beer side really so you can go cheaper. But change them liberally. They are major causes for gas leaks and it sucks when you have a leak and lose a whole tank of co2.
  
  
• in regards to o-rings. always lube them up with some keg lube or food grade lubricants.
  
  
• buy a fish pump, carb cap, and a few hose clamps. This will make cleaning your beer lines much easier
  
  
• in regards to beer lines, dont listen to those calculators that tell you, 3 ft of beer line is enough to carb 12 psi. You'll have a froathy waste every pour. I use 4-5 foot lines for my porters, stouts or other beers that i keep around 5psi. 9-12' of line for mostly everything else. also, the OD and ID of the beer line matter.
  
  if i think of anything else, i'll update or make another post.
  
  EDIT:
  
  
• tap handles are expensive. Get some cheap plastic ones like i have in the album that i posted to start off with and if you're crafty, you can make your own with some of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  here's a post i made a while back of one that I made. You can see some more on the bottom left that I made as well. https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/4mz9tk/i_enjoy_making_tap_handles_and_made_this_one_for/

More details in the imgur album, but here's a quick synopsis:

After having my kegs stuffed in a fridge with picnic taps, I decided it was time to build up a proper keezer. I already had kegs, lines, CO2 tank and regulator. So it was a relatively inexpensive project, aside from the freezer itself.

Here's the build list:

• Freezer - MagicChef 5.9 cu ft
  
• Temp Controller - Inkbird pre-wired (heat/cool)
  
• Taps - Perlick 301SS taps with 4" shanks
  
• CO2 - 4-way distribution manifold * Collar - Inner box: 1x6" knotty pine. Outer: 1x6 walnut, Danish oil natural
  
• 1.5" insulation foam sheathing
  
• Aluminum tape
  
  Already had:
  
• 5# CO2 tank
  
• Dual pressure regulator
  
• Beer and air lines, Corny kegs, ball lock connections, etc.
  
  
  The build:
  Most of the build was pretty straight forward. Make a box, drill some 7/8" holes in the box, etc. Adding the insulation foam was kind of a pain and got little foam pebbles ALL over the place. The aluminum tape really helped to keep the foam from breaking off inside the kegerator, and makes the rough cut edges look nicer. And on a functional side, should seal off air gaps and make cleanup easier.
  
  I ended up picking up some blind nuts that have the same thread pattern as the taps. They were about 5 bucks on Amazon for 10. You simply drill a hole in whatever you want to make a tap handle out of and thread in the nut. I took some leftover pine and walnut scraps and glued them up. The nuts are a challenge to get in straight, which took a few tries.
  
  The drip tray was a challenge, mostly because the drip tray itself was not perfectly square. I measured the tray and mistakenly assumed it would be square. But once I built the box it was obvious it bowed out a little on the sides. Some amount of cursing and smashing with a hammer later got it close enough. I attached the whole assembly to the front with construction adhesive after roughing up the paint with some sandpaper.