(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best wall surface repair products

Get a 4 inch wiz roller with a clothe roller, as pictured (not the sponge roller)
https://www.amazon.com/Work-Tools-International-54164-Premium/dp/B000I1CKJ0/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1474398359&sr=8-15&keywords=4%22+wiz+roller

Put some joint compound on the wall, a teaspoon or tablespoon to start. Then use the roller to spread and roll the compound back and forth, until you get a very thin texture similar to that around it. The roller fabric should be moistened before use, a little bit, to keep too much of the joint compound from sticking to it. If at any time you don’t like what’s happening and you want to start over, get a towel and just wipe it off the wall. The joint compound must dry and usually over night before painting. What you create with the compound can be sanded a bit when dry, to knock off any high points, to further match its surroundings. Essentially, you're replicating possibly years of paint being rolled on the walls. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/GYPSUM-380270072-Gypsum-380270-Compound/dp/B000PDL6F0/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474398609&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=joint+comopund

How big is it? If it's less than 5" or so, these kits work well and are pretty self explanatory. There are also instructional videos on youtube. If this is an apartment that you rent, there is limited value in fixing it too well.

OK. Super cheap:

(1) Clean out the crack and fill it with self leveling concrete caulk: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-29-fl-oz-Grey-Self-Leveling-Sealant-106711/202523824

More money, but still kinda cheap:

(2) Clean out the crack and inject it with epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/DIY-Concrete-Foundation-Crack-Repair/dp/B006OP30L6

Still more money:

(3) Resurface the whole garage with a concrete overlay: https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-overlays

The long term repair:

(4) Control the water before it gets beneath the slab: http://www.aquamasterplumbing.com/2015/01/26/everything-you-need-to-know-about-weeping-tile/

This is just me.......Do you have gutters and downspouts? If so, are they directing water away from the garage foundation? Do you have a problem with water sitting against the garage on any of it's sides?

There's a few ways you could go about this. In my experience I've seen lots of these types of cracks and they actually repair quite nicely even with changes in temperature when you mix a floor repair product with sand to fill the wide areas (there could be more issues though, not sure of the full extent of your problem).

Your typical floor repair materials (something like this) should do the trick.

Yup. Clean it very well. You can prime it first and the patch will really stick.
https://www.amazon.com/Larsen-Plaster-Bonding-Agent-Gallon/dp/B00AP59BM8

Get a pump sprayer from Home Depot for $20 and one of these scrapers. Don't use the clips that come with it. Use those office binder clips to hold the bag on.

You wet down about a 36" x 36" section of the popcorn, wait 2-3 minutes and scrape it off. Repeat. Repeat and repeat some more. Then get some mud, thin it down and fill in all the scrapes and seams and places you gouged the drywall.

I just did two 10 x 12 bedrooms this month in my house and it took about 3 hours to scrape each one and 2-3 hours to "patch" them with the mud.

Then a light sanding, (with like 240 drywall sanding sheets) a thick coat of KillZ and you are ready to paint.

Was also thinking you could use this stuff for shaping the inside of the mold if you used wood... Like between the ribs or something(would look like the inside of an old wooden work boat), or fiberglass.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OTDYOO/?ref=exp_jakephelps_lv_dp_vv_mw

I found this which looks like a possible option:

https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Doctor-Drywall-Patch-Kit/dp/B00HVJ1TL2

But the end result doesn't look all that blended in. Do you guys know of any other products that can fix my troubles?

I have zero handyman skills so the easier the solution the better!

Wow it must be expensive to do a whole board...

Try this stuff instead http://www.amazon.com/DAP-12330-Indicator-Spackling-1-Quart/dp/B000BQPYJ0

Is it more of a formica/laminate finish for the table top? Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fix-Chip-Counter-Repair-Kit/dp/B000678MOS/ref=sr_1_1

You should look into spray cans of wall texture. They come in different size grit, etc.

You could just spray it on and not ruin brushes or have huge amounts of sandy paint.

http://www.amazon.com/Homax-Group-4592-Professional-25-Ounce/dp/B008Z3XJHA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457367720&sr=8-1&keywords=wall+texture+spray+can

USG 381466 Lightweight All Purpose Joint Compound Ready Mixed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5Q5UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DvmXAb1TZ4PZT

This? Do I need joint tape?

Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Repair-Compound-Self-Adhesive-Sanding/dp/B06Y4682NF or https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Primer-Self-Adhesive-Sanding/dp/B00IOQKUQG/

(Drywall repair kits can also be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)

Do you have leftover paint for touch-up?

I'd give something like one of these a try.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K8HNOE?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Strong-CRACK-PAC-ACCESORIES-CPFH09KT/dp/B00QKZEWW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493124180&sr=8-1&keywords=crack+pack

Here is a kit I found on Amazon.

I am having a company install a drain system on the interior walls of my basement, so I went ahead and had them do the carbon fiber strapping for me. But you can definitely DIY it.

EDIT: You can also check the "bowing" yourself. Get a laser level and set it on the ground a few inches away from the wall. Then take a tape measure and start measuring from the ground up the distance from the wall to where the laser is shining on your tape measure.

Go to a home depot or paint store. They look like plasterers mud pan. https://www.amazon.com/Warner-Tool-Stainless-Steel-Mud/dp/B0000A14RN

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stepsaver-Products-8121-Self-Adhesive-Goof-Light/dp/B00FN6R6EY

or mud/tape

Buy a putty like this and then if needed paint over. You can take a paint chip to any paint store or Lowes/Home Depot and they can match it.

Made this hole way back when I was in school. Tried hiding it with thick paper and tape. Now that im planning on repainting my walls from this pee colored yellow to a shade of grey, I need to repair this hole first.

Whats the easiest way for me to repair this without costing me too much? Take into consideration Ive never done anything like this before.

I was thinking this Patch Plus Primer, Fiber Mesh Patch, and Plastic Knife Set? Will these be all that I need?

I’ve used the quad on many doors. Seems like the go to product in my area. Recently though, I was in a position where I needed to bed a threshold in a very wet area. I found a Henry roofing product stating to stick to any wet surface: https://www.amazon.com/Henry-HE212202-Clear-Roof-Patch/dp/B000VQA2XS

Very sticky stuff, clear, and was thick enough to drop a thick bead to bed the threshold onto. I haven’t received a call back on it yet, and it happens to be one of the doors at my office. I am sure they would have let me know by now if it had failed.

I'm not a fan of popcorn, but don't hate it enough to do the work to get rid of it.

For patching, I use this. It works, but there is an "art" to applying it and you'll never exactly match what was put down with a sprayer.

For painting, use a long nap roller and just go a little slow. You'll probably use 50% more paint on popcorn than on a flat wall. If you do it right, very little popcorn will come off, but some flaking is inevitable.

If it is not under warranty, you could do this yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/DIY-Concrete-Foundation-Crack-Repair/dp/B006OP30L6

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BUCWB4?pc_redir=1398506246&robot_redir=1

https://www.amazon.com/GYPSUM-380270072-Gypsum-Compound-Off-White/dp/B000PDL6F0/ref=pd_cp_60_2?pd_rd_w=6ymG1&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=8H8Q8B9AQY1ABEWYG868&pd_rd_r=0c287f59-a7c4-11e9-97ec-85e598983ee7&pd_rd_wg=z3If8&pd_rd_i=B000PDL6F0&psc=1&refRID=8H8Q8B9AQY1ABEWYG868

​

https://www.amazon.com/Walboard-Tool-54-007-Drywall-Repair/dp/B003NSBQF4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3SYGBH6UL94J4&keywords=8x8+drywall+patch&qid=1563279667&s=hi&sprefix=8x8+drywall%2Ctools%2C133&sr=1-3

Ah, so something like this should do the trick. I may have to do some test runs.

https://www.amazon.com/Grade-Texture-Orange-Water-Based/dp/B008Z3XJHA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1481753517&sr=8-6&keywords=texture+spray+wall

I live in earthquake country, too, and we get those all the time. The criteria I use is:

(A) Is there a change of plane? Is one side higher or lower than the other side?

(B) Is it wider at the top vs the bottom?

(C) Has it pulled apart? Can you stick a coin into the slot?

(D) For a basement, has water or soil come through the crack?

(E) Has the wall bowed outward?

If the answer is no, then I don't worry about it. If I want to seal it, I will use a thin masonry blade on an angle grinder, open the crack a bit wider, then use masonry caulk to seal it:

http://www.homedepot.com/s/masonry%2520caulk?NCNI-5


You could also use an epoxy repair kit, if you want:

https://www.amazon.com/DIY-Concrete-Foundation-Crack-Repair/dp/B006OP30L6

Ugh, I appreciate your reply immensely but just fuck.

What kind of saw should I cut with if I go your route?

What does vee out mean?

I know you don't like kits, but how about this kit if I decide to cut out the dent? It uses a plastic piece instead of a square piece of drywall. If it's trash, which lightweight joint compound do you recommend?