Reddit mentions: The best angle clamps

Well...it's a bit more complicated, if you are doing it right, than just letting Torres or Re calculate the cutsheet for you. There is nothing wrong with doing that, and I'm sure you would get great results this way. I, however, like to nerd out on stuff...so I designed mine from the ground up using WinISD and Solidworks. I'm in the middle of building the box I just designed. Here are some tips I picked up from my research this past week.

• Use WinISD and your favorite 3D modeling tool. Add in the T/S parameters slowly (and only the ones you need) and use the tab key a lot to let it calculate values for you. Don't forget to incluce high/low (band) pass filters since they will affect almost everything else.
  
  
• Use 3/4 in MDF. If you can find a thicker size (unlikely) that is better, but that is the largest that Home Depot and Lowes sell. If you have a bunch of room, then double up on the thickness and join the panels with wood glue.
  
  
• Don't forget to add the power that you will be supplying to the subs in WinISD for SPL curve generation
  
  
• Brace any large surface that is 6 in from a corner with dowel rods or threaded rod, and do not make them symmetric.
  
  
• Measure your port length from the center. Let WinISD do the end-correction factor for you on the vent tab (two free ends) as it will adjust the port length accordingly.
  
  
• Brace corners with 45 degree cuts, particularly the port wall. Make sure you adjust the length of your first port wall so as to not reduce the cross sectional area of the port at this point. Not accounting for the reduced area causes a bottleneck, and it is very bad for the prevention of turbulent air flow. It's helpful to use Solidworks, AutoCAD or another modeling program for this step.
  
  
• Double baffles (doubling up on the front wall that the subs are mounted in) increases rigidity and will raise the resonant frequency of the box.
  
  
• Don't forget to subtract the displacement of the woofer(s), bracing volumetric displacement, and port volumetric displacement from your net volume
  
  
• Try to fix the dimensions of two sides and use the last to play with. In my case, the height and width were fixed and I varied the depth (trunk application).
  
  
• Port cross sectional area should be between 12-16 in^2 per ft^3 of net volume (rule of thumb to reduce chuffing, higher is better for spl from what I've read, but it may be best to go with the manufacturer's rated targets)
  
  
• Port width should be no less than 2-2.5 in to prevent chuffing. This is caused by increased air turbulence at wall edges. If there is too little room in between the sidewalls then the friction that is unaccounted for by WinISD could cause unwanted "whooshing" noises.
  
  
• Maximum air velocity should be no more than 20m/s (increased port area -> reduced velocity)
  
  
• Group delay (transient lag time between when signal is sent until when sound is produced due to filter lag and phase shift) should be no more than 30ms (speculated/rule of thumb audible threshold) for lower operational frequencies. Increasing the tuning frequency decreases this group delay. Remember that this is just a rule of thumb. I have yet to see it proved, but to a trained ear I can imagine that this is definitely important. I couldn't get mine below 35ms when including a bandpass filter so I hope this point isn't critical.
  
  
• Cone excursion should not go above the Xmax of the driver. Make sure you set your high pass filter or it will likely look crazy.
  
  
• Make your panel cuts on a table saw if possible. Home Depot and Lowes will make a few cuts for free on a 4x8 sheet if you don't have a truck to get it home.
  
  
• Cut your driver holes with a Dremel or router hole saw attachment if you have on available. If not, use a fine tooth jigsaw blade. Go slowly.
  
  
• Use Tightbond III wood glue and 1-5/8in or 2in coarse thread drywall screws for construction. I picked up one of these clamps to make my life easier, but I'd recommend getting two of them to hold the box square. Predrill your holes or you will splinter the MDF.
  
  
• Carpet like this guy. Stapling the carpet would also help with it pulling away, but I just opted for the more expensive grade of spray adhesive to get the job done.
  
  I'm sure there is so much more that I'm forgetting. I wish I had saved all of the sources that I got all of this from, but most of it could be found by searching for the terms and numbers. Good luck, and have fun!

Many times you can but for one thing, you’ll get less clamping force. It’s easy to forget how much pressure you can get out of a moderately inclined plane.

Think of it this way: how far apart are the individual threads on your clamp’s screw? They’re pretty damn close together, right? Well, with each turn of that handle, all the force in your arm is being multiplied to move the piece just that tiny distance together.

That multiplier won’t be as good with a ratchet strap. Each turn of the ratchet tightens the strap a good long ways - over an inch. So the force in your arm isn’t being concentrated into a super small movement. Ergo: you won’t be able to get as much clamping force. Also there’s elasticity in the straps which works against you too.

My strappy-bandy clamp thing for mitered boxes and picture frames uses a steel strap and it tightens with a hand screw, addressing both of these weaknesses.

MLCS 9012 Woodworking Exclusive Merle Multi-Corner Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FNKXIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wkm3AbB9EY0Y5

I worked in a frame shop at a craft store and also at local shop in college and we had a under pin machine. We did one corner at a time using a corner clamp that the resting surface was level with a large table. If clamps from the inside rabbit to the outside of the frame and should work well for your profile. Glue and brad nail (manually with counter sink punch). Dry fit first and make sure its square (all opposite sides exactly the same length and that your angles are 45 dead on. If we were making the frame I would do any shaping or profiling first if making the molding. Making the 4 side longer and miter the corners last. If not we would use a chop service where you order the molding you want (they cut them square and 45) and mail you the lengths.

IF all your angles are correct and you lengths are the same it will fit nicely. If you have small gaps you can fill and mix some of your sander shavings with the filler or epoxy. We used a colored putty that never hardens to fill small gaps. you could mix it to what you needed. With the inset it will be harder. It would be easier to dry fit using a strap clamp to check your gaps. IF there are any shorten the legs as little as possible to correct if what your framing will allow. That way you don't have to use any filler or a burnishing rod to close the gaps.

Amazon one:

​

https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-Quick-Jaw-Welding-Wood-working-Framing/dp/B07BWFB2BK/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=pony+corner+clamps&qid=1563289042&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-10

​

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9012-Woodworking-Exclusive-Multi-Corner/dp/B000FNKXIG/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=pony+corner+clamps&qid=1563289042&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-12

​

The video I assume is putting a square onto the bench and using wedges to tighten it. That works as well.

​

Putty: https://framing4yourself.com/shop/products/other-picture-frame-making-supplies/amaco-filler-putty/

The square we used : https://framing4yourself.com/shop/products/tools-for-clamping-picture-frames/framing4yourself-miter-vise/

Really not bad at all compared to what you would pay if you bought one from a store. You might find you need some tools as well that might drive up the cost. I ended up buying a corner/angle clamp like this. I definitely recommend one if you don't have one. It made it much easier to screw the boards together.

I wanted to see what brand/make of corner clamp the community would recommend. I currently have 2 (had 4 to start) Irwin Light-Duty Corner Clamps, and I keep popping the washer that holds the bolt to the clamp.

I'm a hobbyist, so I am looking for the middle-of-the-road in price, with a fair quality. In other words, Somewhere between Harbor Freight and Festool; but higher quality than Irwin. ;)

TIA!

Interesting. Looks a lot like angle clamp.
I was looking for one other day on Amazon and then I see your post. My brain works funny like that.

My Sir got some very cute kant twist clamps. Not clothespins, but if you want something similar they are delightful. They give you a lot of control over the amount of pressure applied. This is really nice if you start out kinda sensitive but tolerate and enjoy more pressure later. Also, most nipple clamps have a screw so you can adjust the amount of pressure.

http://www.amazon.com/Kant-Twist-396-Universal-Capacity/dp/B0006NC22U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1413149605&sr=8-5&keywords=kant+twist+clamps

Couple teardown pics on this comment

Using a Makerbeam Starter Kit + some extra 300mm beams, Corner Cubes, eye plates and longer bolts for mounting other badges and the power strip on the back.

It was the best build project kit I've done since Legos lol

I bought a handful of these at one of the local big box hardware stores. Work very well for fit-up, positioning, and tacking things square, even relatively large things (I've used them for things ~5' cubed) Not heavy duty, but get the job done.

Far better option, at least for large stuff, are the squares from https://fireballtool.com/

Like a corner clamp?
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KHC-90DCC-90-degree-Corner-Clamp/dp/B001DCEN4I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1496092477&sr=8-7&keywords=Corner+clamp
There are cheaper options as well.

Spend a few bucks on a pocket hole jig. You want to avoid screwing into end grain on most places. A basic jig will be about $20 and will work just fine.

A square clamp is also handy, but not necessary.

Sand the pieces before assembly will save you some trouble of sanding in the corners.

Wood glue will add a lot of strength, spread it evenly, screw the pieces together. Then use a rag with a little white vinegar to wipe off any glue that presses out before it dries.


Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xvrIAbVMZ9N52

Can-Do Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJNJNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6xrIAbVATMDX4

Same here, but I got some of these recently, which are much better:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LJNJNU

Various 90° clamps have been around for a long time. I have seen some that use straps and I have two different ones like this, there are one handle models and two handle models like that.

Yup that's why I like this style, it pulls square by nature. Also, Grizzly isn't the only one that makes them, Rockler has one, Jorgensen does one, and I see generics all over.

that's a kreg clamp that's designed to fit pocket holes- http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KHC-RAC-Right-Angle-Clamp/dp/B001DCE79O/ref=pd_sim_hi_3

Glue and clamps gets my vote, make sure you have a corner clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCGYD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KtuEDb25E44NY

wolfcraft 3415405 Quick-Jaw Right Angle 90 Degree Corner Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCGYD6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_vXlyCb4B722XK

It's a corner vise.

http://www.amazon.com/True-Fabrications-Gallon-Amber-Growler/dp/B00BFZ1P6M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416072275&sr=8-3&keywords=beer+growler

http://www.amazon.com/Never-Pay-Retail-Again-Inc/dp/B0064OJIKY/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1416072331&sr=8-21&keywords=growler&pebp=1416072334336

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Beer-Growler-Cap-Gallon/dp/B004GWGL10/ref=pd_sim_indust_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1N56E6G6W0H9CY1D459W

Bust out the wallet, [it's not cheap] (https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Tools-WAC35-SW-Stand-Offs-T-Clearance/dp/B00JXDT2OK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509895543&sr=8-2&keywords=3+axis+welding+clamp) but they really work.

Gonna order one this week for some load frame cubes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZCLGJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_edJACbY3H8XYN

http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-WS-3-Angle-Clamp/dp/B000022454/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1417406736&sr=8-5&keywords=right+angle+clamp then maybe?

Just came by to say the link is dead, but they're on Amazon, if you want to put your own keyring on it and I'm buying it. I didn't know they came that small.
https://www.amazon.com/Kant-Twist-396-Universal-Capacity/dp/B0006NC22U/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0006NC22U&pd_rd_r=54188534-616e-11e8-82cb-956118da8fd6&pd_rd_w=I3y2Y&pd_rd_wg=LjyED&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3914568618330124508&pf_rd_r=GD79SF81SFSQ8S63610Z&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=GD79SF81SFSQ8S63610Z

I clamped one of these at the apex 90
http://smile.amazon.com/Rockler-29190-Clamp--Assembly-Square/dp/B001DSZ7L0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452828830&sr=1-1&keywords=rockler+square

and used 2 of these to give me 360 clamping pressure
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCLNQ4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage