Reddit mentions: The best aquarium air pumps

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

Hi OP,

No you’re betta is in pretty bad shape... a 2.5 tank, while better than most smaller containers, is really not giving the betta the best possible quality of life. There's a LOT of MYTHS and LIES out there about how they can live in tiny containers and muddy puddles but this is absolutely not true at all, and is not great.

A scientific study even talks about why 5 gallon tanks are better for bettas: https://www.maryvillecollege.edu/media/dsx/manager/Faculty/NaturalSciences/dcrain/Undergraduate_Research/Dolan2015.pdf

Please consider upgrading the pretty boi to a much larger tank ASAP. The small tank will not let him thrive or have a decent quality of life. We here recommend no less than a 5g minimum tank for a betta to thrive... he deserves better than being stuck in a cramped little tank don’t you think? A bigger tank will give him lots of space to swim freely and have a stable nitrogen cycle which is very important to fish health.

Please give this a read to learn how to give your boi the best quality of life possible:
​
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/3ow6vz/info_betta_care_sheet/

If you’re in the USA, Petco is also having Dollar-Per-Gallon sales until Aug. 24, so that means 10G (Standalone tank, not part of a kit) for $10 + tax, OR you can grab 5.5g (standalone tank, NOT part of a kit) for just $14 + tax (not part of the sale but great price for a 5.5g tank regardless).

Then I recommend also getting:

• A breathable lid/hood that fits on the tank (you need to cover the top somehow so that the betta can't accidently jump out, as they are skilled jumpers)
  
• Sponge Filter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RFL4JMM/
  
• Air pump (required to run the sponge filter): https://www.amazon.com/Pawfly-MA-60-Aquarium-Gallon-Accessories/dp/B073DWVX5P/
  
• High-quality Airline tubing (the free one included with the air pump above is bad quality since it's free, and you can see the reviews saying the free tubes are no good) https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Airline-Aquariums-Terrariums-Hydroponics/dp/B079DFWLX4/
  
• AND a 50w heater (50w recommended for 10g, OR a 25w would be for a 5 or 5.5g tank) with a MANUAL TEMPERATURE SETTINGS knob... DO NOT get a preset heater, if it can be avoided (Preset heaters are not accurate).
  
  OR
  
  Petsmart offers a decent 5.5g tank kit for $23.99 (On sale at the time of my comment) : https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262256.html
  
  ​
  
  You will have to FISH-IN cycle the new larger tank: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle
  
  Must-Have items for your Fish-in Cycling process + Additional Info:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.
  
  Other stuff:
  
  Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellet with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/
  
  Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)
  
  Filter - any rated for your tank size as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank)
  
  Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25 watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).
  
  Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are. You can get good deals on live plant packages on r/aquaswap
  
  Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.
  
  Cleaning/Tank Maintenance Supplies -
  
  Seachem Stability, Seachem Prime, API Freshwater Master Test Kit, big bucket (can have 2, one for clean water, and one for the old dirty tank water), and an appropriate gravel vacuum (they come in different sizes so make sure you get one that is the right size for your tank). Algae scraper thing too (the lil magnetic ones are nice) if you don't like algae on the front of the tank... Brand new clear-plastic Turkey Baster (which you will only use for aquarium use) will be good for spot-cleaning (immediate removal of food/poo wastes if you see any sitting around)
  
  For more info on betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index

I don't know if it's different in Hawaii, but in most states a 5 gallon tank is like $13, and a 10 gallon is the same price. Used 10 gallons tanks are typically $10 or less, and petco/petsmart both do a "dollar per gallon sale" pretty often where brand new 10 gallon tanks are $10.

If that's still a pinch, you can use a plastic bin that holds a simiilar amount of water for like $5 or less. It wont look as pretty but it will keep him healthy until a tank is affordable.

As for heaters, here's a really cheap one that I've used!

Filters can be really cheap as well, especially sponge filters. This one is only $3 and would be great in a betta tank. Since it's a sponge filter, you also need an air pump, but those are cheap too. This one is like $6, you could probably do some googling around and find even cheaper ones though. You'll also need some airline tubing, which is pretty cheap as well, here's some that is $3 and way more that you need.

I've had my share of money troubles, so I know a lot of ways to make keeping a fish healthy a lot cheaper. If you get the filter and heater I recommended, it'll only cost $20.84 (plus tax and maybe some shipping costs). And then the tank or plastic bucket/bin or something will be another ~$10. So that doesn't seem too unreasonable. If you can't afford that all at once, the bigger tank should be top priority, along with the filter. The heater is also very important, but less so than the filter and the bigger tank.

If you can't get ANYTHING at all yet, in the meantime you'll need to be doing daily water changes (at least 50% of the water or more) to keep the ammonia down and safe for him. Make sure you're only changing the water with new conditioned water, not tap water. The chlorine in tap water is toxic.

One last thing, check your local craigslist listings too! I know Hawaii tends to be a bit more expensive than around here, but sometimes you can find REALLY good deals on used fish stuff compared to buying it new. That's always a good option on a budget.

Hopefully this helped a little bit!

Whatever you do, I HIGHLY suggest real plants. Java fern, Anubias, and marimo balls are all great. No need for special substrate as the rhizomes need to be exposed to light. Just tie down to weights, decorations, or rocks. (You can use stones from outside, but make sure they are smooth, and boil them to kill any bacteria. Do not use soap or bleach to clean the rock, as the residue will kill your fish.)

5 gallon tank is recommended here. I will say I’ve kept bettas in 2.5s before and they’ve done great, but my boy seems much happier and active in the 5.5 I got him. (Only $13 at petco and the aquarium hood I got for it was $31 when I bought it, but the price went up. They rarely sell this hood in stores.) you could also go for a 5gallon tank starter kit which is usually cheaper. I just didn’t buy a kit because I already had a filter and such.

A heater/thermometer and filter are needed. Preset heaters are ok, but if you can afford an adjustable heater, that is better. Most preset heaters aren’t the best, but they’ll still keep the water from getting cold. For filters, I recommend a sponge filter that will double as a bubbler. This will clean AND aerate the water, as well as break up the film that will form at the top of the water. It will help your betta breathe much better. I have this filter and this air pump from amazon and am please with them. :)

Water treatment: you will need water conditioner to dechlorinate your tap water and make it safe for your fish. I use API Stress Coat+ and it does well. I also use Indian almond leaf “tea” to manage the pH. more info here You’ll also want something to test your water with. Many people recommend the api master test kit. I use tetra’s 6in1 test strips and they have served me well. Only thing is you want to check them before purchasing, so don’t buy online. Occasionally the nitrate pad comes brown and is faulty. Only reason I use those instead of the master test kit is I can’t find one that will test for all six things. They normally only test for four.

That is most likely a snowball pleco, which are nice little guys that are pretty hardy, good omnivores, and get to be about 4-6 inches. There are quite a few babies like this currently available in my LFSs, and I have a few that have done quite well in a community tank.

I agree with the other commenters that you are getting an ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spike from the addition of new fish. I recommend Seachem products to help (not affiliated, just long-time freshwater and saltwater tank hobbyist). First, use Seachem Prime as a water conditioner to help - after doing a water change. Your tank will need to do a mini-cycle to recalibrate the bacterial load for the addition of new fish. You will likely need to do frequent water changes until the cycle ends. Test with something like API master test kit to track the rise and fall of ammonia/nitrites/nitrates. Ammonia and nitrite spikes kill fish very quickly, while high nitrates shorten the lifespans of the fish by more slowly harming their organs (regular water changes help keep nitrates down long term). Add a bubbler to the tank to help with the stress by making sure there's not additional stress from low O2. For the fin rot, clean water can cure it. You likely will need to treat the fish as well with something stronger. Seachem makes paraguard, which I use all the time for quarantine and mildly ill fish. You can add an antibiotic like Seachem kanaplex to ParaGuard or treat separately with kanaplex to help with fin rot. Both medications work by being added to the water (rather than feeding to the fish). The best thing about Seachem products is that they affect the pH much less than any other products I have tried. Note the additional oxygen is usually necessary when treating with medications. Seachem Stress Guard can also help transition fish to a new tank. All these products are available on Amazon and usually are at Petco/Petsmart/LFS.

For future fish additions, I recommend 1) adding only 1-2 fish at a time to limit the cycling problem and 2) QUARANTINE your new fish, so you can treat any diseases they may have before adding them to your community tank. Even a small tank with just a bubbler can work as a quarantine for a small fish for a couple weeks, and can be a literal lifesaver for your other fish.

Also - there are a lot of great online communities for different types of fish that you can check out to learn more about these things. For plecos, start with this one. :) Good luck with your new guy!

I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.

To pick up now:

-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.

-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.

-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.

-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.

-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.

To pick up soon:

-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.

-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.

Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.

Moving tanks is easy if you have a plan, and lots of buckets/totes and water.

There is lots of advice out there, you should probably just read all of it and decide what seems best for you:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-dos-and-donts-of-moving-with-a-saltwater-tank.83072/

https://www.petcha.com/how-to-move-your-reef-aquarium/

With 3 tanks it might require more home depot buckets than I needed, but it's always helpful to have more FISH ONLY (with label) buckets.

Some cheap heaters and a multi-stone air stone pump will turn the buckets into stable mini tanks, and you can get the livestock out of the tanks and into buckets with clean tank water with a bit of new water, then they will be fine while you disassemble the tank. Since you probably aren't going far you should be okay without running the heat/air while in transit, but having buckets with life support in them means you won't need to worry about fishes while you are doing tear down/setup.

Put some water in totes, or whatever it seems will work best to hold the various live rock formations. Put rock without corals on the bottom, maybe get a blue LED flashlight because it will make finding corals easier when it comes to put the rocks back together if you have soft corals / mushrooms that will probably retract while in transit. You should probably "piss off" corals like acans/euphyllia with by swishing in the water or gentle powerhead blasts, so that when you pull them out of the water they aren't so full of water that it damages the flesh from the weight of the tentacles/etc. Definitely submerge any super valuable corals, but most corals can deal with being out of the water for short periods of time, especially if you put some paper towels over them and occasionally pour some saltwater over top.

Make a bunch of water, then make some more! Maximum heaters in your saltwater mixing bucket! Getting enough warm saltwater water to fill the system again was the main reason we didn't finish the "move" until about 4am, after starting around 6pm.

Run fresh carbon once you get it running again to help get rid of stress toxins released during the move.

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)

API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506349229&sr=1-1&keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)

Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc

I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food

Here are a few they have mentioned:

Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1

New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506350883&sr=1-1&keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.

Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!

• As for filters, you have a plethora of options. The easiest to maintain are either sponge filters powered by an air pump. If you choose to go with a sponge filter you will need a ball valve to regulate the flow and control the amount of current in the tank (bettas generally live in and prefer very calm water with little to no surface agitation). OOOOR my favorite route, a hang-on-back filter. Aquaclear makes an excellent filter. The benefit to a hang-on-back filter over a sponge is that you have control over what type of media you choose to use inside of it. This allows for a ton of more advanced options down the line to control chemical levels and water purity. The average size of a filter speaks volumes to the necessity of a 5 to 10 gallon tank.
  
  
• You will want to replace your plastic plants with ones made of silk. The best way to figure out if a decor item is safe for your fish is by dragging a pair of panty hoes (don’t know if I spelt that right) across the decoration. If the panty hoes tear at all then the item is not safe for your fish's fins. Once you are a bit deeper into the hobby, live plants are an excellent addition to any tank as they provide a type of "buffer" for your tank as they absorb harmful chemicals. That being said they can be quite a bit of work depending on what you want to grow.
  
  
• API makes the best hobbyist level water test kit on the market. That being said, I hate the rest of their products for the most part. They are just simply inferior to other options. When you can, all you need to buy is some Seachem Prime for your water condition. It is the crème de la crème of water conditions and while the price tag is higher than others up front it is MUCH cheaper in the long run as it literally only takes 1 ml / 10 gallons to make your water safe for your fish. It also nullifies harmful ammonia and nitrite through a proprietary formula. To add to the awesomeness, you can safely overdose it at up to 5x the concentration safely, and that is even recommended for particularly harmful situations such as cycle crashes or fish-in cycles.
  
  
• Due to the size of the tank he was in, water changes are a bit irrelevant. With such a small body of water and no filter, to keep him safe you would need to be performing 25-50% water changes a few times a day (not exaggerating) this leads back to my previous point about larger bodies of water being much easier to maintain. Once you have upgraded to a larger setup a standard water change schedule is usually ~30% once a week. In the event your water parameters are way out of whack and you need to change a lot of the water out, it is ALWAYS better to perform many small scale water changes as opposed to one large one. Large water changes cause violent shifts in PH, water hardness, temperature, and other parameters. These all stress the hell out of our little buddies. To add to this, established tanks do not need to be "cleaned" ever. All that is necessary is a vacuuming of the substrate to clean up any leftover food (we are gonna get to avoiding leftovers altogether shortly) or waste.
  
  
• After hearing about his living conditions, his condition upon death is less and less relevant. Unfortunately due to the nature of his home, he was going to pass quickly regardless of the cause.
  
  
• Food! In the wild meals for bettas are sometimes very scarce! They primarily live off of mosquitos and mosquito larva. They will sometimes go up to two weeks without finding a meal. Because of this, they have no mechanism in their anatomy to signal when they are full. They gorge themselves on whatever they can as they may not have another meal for a very long time. It is always better to error on the side of caution of underfeeding rather than overfeeding. A good rule of thumb is that their stomachs are about the size of their eyeballs. For reference, my fully grown betta gets about 3-4 pellets twice a day. That being said he is quite large and feeding schedules vary from fish to fish. If you watch them while they eat you can actually see their tummies plumping up a bit right after they eat. Plump is good, too plump is not. Another safety measure that many people utilize is a fasting day once a week. Many folks will feed a bit heavier on a Saturday and give treats like blood worms and then will starve them the next day. This helps clean out their digestive systems that are very susceptible to blockages and bloating.
  
  
• Removing leftover food is important. A helpful tool for this is a turkey baster. Any leftover food will breakdown into Ammonia. This is one reason many people like to keep shrimp or snails as tank companions as they will clean up the leftovers. If you aren't ready for that yet, just make sure you clean out the leftover food.
  
  
• Omega one betta buffet is great food. Freeze dried bloodworms are awesome too. I generally save the bloodworms as a treat since they are so messy and difficult to clean up what they don't eat.
  
  
• In reference to the buggy eyes, with a 1 gallon tank, no filter and no heater, there could have been numerous causes for his condition.
  
  I like to end posts like this with shots of my tanks. I do this because I just want to remind you 1 more time that my first 5 gallon tank was an absolute death trap for any fish that was unfortunate enough to land in it. I hope this helps!!!
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/lYu70ZW.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/qP7LmqU.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/lL2M7xw.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/Gkkywcv.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/MTDRF2N.jpg
  

I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.


HOW TO CYCLE:

1. Set up tank with clean conditioned water. 2. Add recommended amount of beneficial bacteria per label
   
   
2. Add "waste" to the tank, so a little bit of say fish flakes ( they're cheap and you need a waste source since you DO NOT put a fish or axolotl in a uncycled tank. The flakes are gonna break down into ammonia. The goal with cycling is to get benefical bacteria to build up so they can change (eat) the waste & breaks down the ammonia into nitrite then finally break it down further into nitrate. All these chemicals can hurt axolotl.
   
   
3. Test tank a couple days later with a testing kit ( avoid strips, they will lie to you and give false results) if there is ANY ammonia or nitrite present, you arent cycled. If there is no nitrate present either, you arent cycled.
   
   
4. If you find ammonia or nitrite, take 50% of the water out and add clean treated water. Add more seachem stability ( benefical bacteria) ( add these each time you change water. Even if it's cycled)
   
   
5. Add a pinch more flakes & Continue to do this until your tank is cycled. Meaning you have no ammonia, no nitrite and a presence of 40ppm or less of nitrate.
   
   
   
   Warnings:
   1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
   
   
6. This beneficial bacteria lives in the filter. If you change your filter, you just ruined your cycle. Don't do this. If it gets nasty/clogged & you have to replace the cartirage, leave the old cartirage in with the new one for a few days so the beneficial bacteria can inhabit the new filter. If you can avoid replacing that, just rinse/gently squeeze out the filter in old tank water when you do clean the tank to keep from murdering the bacteria
   
7. Letting the filter dry out will also kill a cycle.
   
8. 
   
   *NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
   
   
   Summery;
   So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
   
   You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
   
   Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
   
   
   Stuff you'll need:
   
9. Air stone+ airline+ air pump ( cheap ones are at Walmart.
   
10. Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
    
11. Seachem prime ( it's a water conditioner I just prefer seachem)
    
12. A tank, 10 gallon minimum for 1 axolotl. But the bigger the better.
    
13. A filter
    
14. Hides for the axolotl
    
15. A syphon / water vacuum ( to suck out the poo/change water easy. I have a long food grade plastic hose I got from Ace hardware. I syphon and let it drain into the yard
    
16. A bucket
    
17. A Tupperware
    
18. A fan. Literally any fan you can put on top the tank and point at it will work. I have a table fan sitting on top my tank and blowing at the water to help keep it cool. A chiller is best, but they are expensive.
    
19. A tank thermometer ( don't get the thermometer strips, they lie
    
20. A master fresh water test kit.
    
21. Worms or repashy or pellets
    
    
    
    Links:
    
22. Test kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784772&sr=8-2&keywords=master+freshwater+test+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&ref=plSrch
    
    
    
23. Fan suggestion
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG
    
    
24. Tank thermometer
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784880&sr=8-5&keywords=tank+thermometer
    
    4.
    Air pump + line + stone.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784937&sr=8-11&keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&ref=plSrch
    
    
25. Filter ( basic the tank you have probably already has one)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785038&sr=8-2&keywords=hob+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch
    
    
26. Shower poof ( hang these so they slow the flow of water coming out of filter. Axolotls don't like a lot of heavy water flow. Get these at the dollar store and rinse them before going in tank. You don't have to get these online. I'm just showing you)
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785094&sr=8-3&keywords=shower+pouf
    
    
27. Seachem stuff
    Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785181&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+prime&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&ref=plSrch
    
    Stablity:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785210&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+stability
    
    
28. Food
    Pellets:
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785278&sr=8-1&keywords=axolotl+pellets
    
    Repashy:
    https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB
    
    Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
    
    https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785496&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&psc=1
    
    
    
29. Hides. Here's a good example..I soemthing similar. Just go to the reptile section at your pet store. Get one that's not rough but smooth. Plastics a good option. Just rinse it well before you put it in tank
    https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&source=GA-PLA00522600&fullsite=0
    
    
30. Water vacuum. This is what I have + I have a big long hose for big water changes. I use this to spot clean poo and "vacuum' it into a 10 gallon bucket
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785739&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+vacuum
    
    Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
    
    https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

This betta seems to have some pretty nasty finrot, this is often caused by poor water quality. It seems like he's in a fairly small tank, unfortunately, this is probably not a good environment for him. Bettas are tropical fish that need large enough (preferably 5 gallons or larger) heated and filtered tanks.

So the best way to help him is to get him into a better tank asap. The larger tank can be an aquarium or a plastic bin. The heater should be adjustable, with an internal thermostat. 25W should be fine, unless this betta lives in a particularly cold place.

A sponge filter is a good option for smaller tanks, here's a good sponge filter, it'll need to be powered by a air pump (like this one). Your friend will also need some airline tubing, and something to regulate airflow (this is a 10-pack, but you get the idea).

The water should be treated with water conditioner, like this one. Most people do 25-30% waterchanges, every week.

Cycling is another very important thing. Fish produce ammonia, which is very toxic to them. Luckily, there are bacteria that can convert ammonia into nitrite, and eventually into nitrate (far less toxic). These bacteria can live in the filter, and remove the bad ammonia from the water. A new filter doesn't have enough yet, by cycling we can make sure the filter media is colonized by the bacteria we want. This guide explains the process in more detail, this page here explains how to cycle a tank with fish.

Please also sent your friend a link to our caresheet, it might help them cure this little dude.

I konw this is a ton of information, but please ask your friend to give it a shot. This little dude can definitely recover :)

I felt the same way a year ago when I bought a crab on impulse thinking it'd be a cheap and easy pet to care for. Once the tank is set up, they ARE affordable and low maintenance, which is awesome!

The Crab Street Journal, as /u/picklesfoley recommended, is a great resource. This sub isn't bad, but I find the Hermit Crab Association (HCA) forums extra helpful. They have tons of helpful guides, and the community is super responsive. There are also a decent handful of active Facebook groups for hermit crab owners.

As with any community (especially for pets), you'll probably run into some sticklers who can give borderline-harsh critiques when you ask a question, share a photo, etc. They're usually not wrong, and they usually mean well, but I often feel like their approach is detrimental. Don't let anyone make you feel overwhelmed or like you're doing a bad job. You're taking the necessary steps to create an environment for your crabs to thrive, and that's more than many crab owners can say. Getting up to speed doesn't happen overnight!

A couple of final tips:

• Keeping humidity up can be a huge pain without anything to help. Once I got an air pump for one of my pools, humidity was always on point! Air pumps are cheap and easy to set up. Here's the one I bought.
  
  
• Not sure how many crabs you have now or how big your tank is (10gal+ per crab is generally recommended) but if you're ever looking for more, there are plenty of people trying to get rid of hermit crabs. I adopted 2 through the HCA, and Crab Street Journal has an adoption program too. I've also heard about people adopting unwanted crabs through Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace.

I know you said the next hour. But, if you have time to get to the store, you can get some of the below items. I just wrote this for someone in California who is getting ready for power outages due to wildfires so you have to sift thru, but it's the basics that are the same. I would get the battery backup now, they have them at the bigbox stores. It will last longer than the battery on your current backup. But, they don't stock a ton, so I'd head out now. Get Battery Backups (4 if they have them); each takes 2 DD batteries; buy extra airline hose. If they only have 2 backups, buy splitters and extra stones and you can run 2 in each tank. Buy space blankets anywhere with camping gear, walmart, target, etc. maybe even drugstore. Good luck!

Here's the info from the other post:

So sorry to hear. I can only give you hints re the outages. I can't imagine what to do in event of evacuation. Would it even be possible to take something in the car? I guess. Have a bucket with a lid and a battery backup with airstone. But, that only works if you have the time to actually CATCH your fish! But, for the outages. Lots of variables. Re: the heater, prob the easier question. What's the ambient temp inside your house (day and night/high and low)? This assumes the brushfires don't raise the temp outside/inside your house? I have no idea if that happens, make changes accordingly I guess. But, if your house temp for the quest i asked is at least always between 70 and 85 and you don't have some exotic species they'd probably survive. If it were winter, I'd have different feedback. Although Cali's big, so if you're in the Mts and it is colder, hmm, add blankets around the tank. i bought those space blankets to tape around the tank. Also hand/toe warmers can be taped to outside of tank with duct tape.

Re the filtration: Suggest that in preparation, doing more frequent pwcs and keep the nitrates as low as possible so that if the pwer goes out, you will have as much leeway. I guess you could still do a pwc if the power went out too. If you don't have a well.

I find this to be the best of the battery backups. If it's a big tank you could run 2. You'll want to have extra airline tubing to make your line longer probably. If the power goes out take the filter media out and wrapt the airstone with a rubber band or something so the air flows thru the media and put in the tank. It's hard to keep the stone under and the media on top so be prepared to play around with it to do that to keep as much of the cycled media alive as possible. Have an extra set of DD batteries, but I found they lasted a really long time. But, then again I've never been in the wildfire area.

Good luck!

The DIY fogger is a variant of what I've come across on YouTube and various vivarium forums. The one Ive created is very very light fog and doesn't place a settling fog at the bottom of the tank. Its not like the ones you see where people have bought an ultrasonic humidifier and attached a hose. So far I dont see build up of condensation or inconsistent moisture in the substrate. But as with most of this stuff its trial and error and some day i may find myself not using one, but for now, it works.

Parts i used:

Container:https://www.walmart.com/ip/16408650?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227009105318&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40343306312&wl4=pla-78303470552&wl5=9016832&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16408650&wl13=&veh=sem
Airpump(any will work, but i went with a dual port to push more air):https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=lp_2975471011_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492781141&sr=1-5
Airhose:https://www.walmart.com/ip/11965102?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227001220049&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=82850562632&wl4=pla-163086726512&wl5=9016832&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=11965102&wl13=&veh=sem
stones(optional): (may come with the pump, but incase not)https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hagen-Elite-Cylinder-Air-Stone/19229845
ultrasonic fogger:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (you can get the same unit on ebay for under $5)

For the PVC joints and hosing, i would just go to the hardware store and match them up. You dont want anything threaded. I believe the size tubing i use is 1/2". This is something you have to decide on though and it should all be pressure fitted. The hose should fit perfectly in the PVC joint with a small amount of play. What i did was wrap the end of the hose with electrical tape to fill it out just enough that is keeps a seal when I insert it into the PVC joint - like maybe 2-3 layers of tape. This makes it super easy to break down when you need to fill it or work on it.
PVC joints:http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/3-4-sch-40-pvc-22-1-2-elbow-soc-416-007.html (this is a 45degree, you need 1 of these, 2 90 degree and 1 straight.
braided tubing:http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=HPpvc050-100ft&gclid=Cj0KEQjw2-bHBRDEh6qk5b6yqKIBEiQAFUz29hKHntmxN-a-cdxDRhJqAHmmI066ShSOIDXMjYX8YTYaAkBS8P8HAQ (You only need like 3 feet of this stuff. i got it from ace hardware and it was under $2 per foot.

I dont have any detailed pictures of it on hand, but i will follow up with some images of it so you get an idea of what it takes. Its very basic and works well.

As for how it goes together, you feed both air hoses into the container and have the stones or the end of the hose just above the bottom of the container. They need to go through the lid with everything else. You also place the fogger inside. the PVC is the exhaust that will fog your tank and bring up the humidity. I will get some pictures tonight and post them sometime between tonight and Monday.

Anything labled for bettas is probably junk, or at very least heavily diluted. I use Seachem Prime, and it's usually cheaper than the aqueon brand while being less diluted. A small bottle would last you a very long time.

As for the filter, definitely get a new one. While a mossball helps, you would need far more plants to use up all of the fish's waste. I'd recommend a sponge filter for that size tank so that you don't have to worry about the outflow being too strong. They're incredibly low maintenance as well.

This pump

Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zKHNyb1F5JD7D

With this sponge

Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cLHNyb6XMKG3Z

Would work very well for a 5 gallon.

I would bump the temperature up a bit since bettas do best from 76-82f

Definitely read up on what those numbers mean (not just the ideal range). I think that r/aquariums had a good guide in the sidebar, and Google is your best friend for fish research.

Edit (added link): http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html

As far as tankmates go, for a five gallon with a betta your options are limited to shrimp and snails. But you can still have plenty of fun with those!

Don't be afraid to ask questions!

Oh so cute. Well all you need is a 5-10 gallon tank. There is a sale going on now with either petsmart or petco where you can get $1 per gallon. After that you need a filter. If you get a 5 or 10 gallon tank you can get a nice hang of the back filter for cheap. I got this one for my betta when I was holding him in a 2.5 gallon before putting him in a bigger tank. It needs an air pump to work though I got a cheapo and it works great and is almost unnoticeable.. Spend a little more on a heater though because I got a cheap betta heater and it broke somehow and the heater itself started melting and I thougth it was going to explode. The one I use now is hyador.

I also got him that leaf hammock for him to sleep on. For food I bought frozen blood worms of the hikari brand. This will last a long long time it comes with a bunch of frozen cubes each cube has like a hundred worms. So I cut up the cube and keep a portion in a medicine cup. I add tank water to the medicine cup and the portion melts and i use a pippete to feed the worms. And you feed it to him 1 - 3 times a week. The rest I got pellets. The brand was omega something in a blue container. I drop those pellets in a small medicine cup squirt with water let em soak for a minute then drop them in his tank.

Also !! You need a water conditioner I use seachem prime. It makes tap water safe for your fish, normally it has chlorine and other chemicals to make it safe for humans but those chemicals will hurt fish. Prime helps make it safe for fish to breathe and prime has a slime coat bonus.

I think an estimate on how much you will spend for him is around 60-70$ and he will last a while with clean water, good food, and good maintenance.

To make feeding and dosing prime easier. Get a cheap plastic pipette and glass dropper. I tend to spill things when measuring by the cap so the glass dropper is easier to dose prime. The plastic pipette is used to soak and feed the pellets and blood worms.

I bought a 8 gal long from a local store last week, it cost me 30 bucks, 5 gal long was 25. I'm (Canadian) in Korea atm. That being said, you can get a 5 gal for 20~30 bucks shipped to you. Petsmart has a 10gal for 15 bucks That being said, mine came with a lid, I don't know if yours will, but you can make a cheap wire mesh/plexi lid for ~5 bucks at home depot, I'm not a fan of glass lids since I'm a clutz.

Heaters will also run you about 20~30 dollars for a good one, but you can get them cheap for about 10 bucks or so. Adjustable ones are great because they shut off if it gets too hot in the summer.

Lights: don't think too much on it. You don't have to get one that fits perfectly, and you don't need a professional aquarium lamp from the get go. You can pick a reptile lamp for under 10 bucks if you get them on sale. Unless you're going for a planted tank you don't need to spend 60+ bucks on lights and you don't need Co2. Hell, a desk lamp suffices.

Filter: bettas love slow water, I'd get a sponge filter like drysider said. pump is about 10 bucks, filter is 10~30 bucks depending on brand. air pump example Sponge filter example

I have the smaller k40 and the first upgrade I did was printing an exhaust adapter and getting a new extraction fan since I didn't feel like potentially burning my house down with the included fan. I had to fix the wiring out of the box since the fan wiring is crap and would have definitely caught fire at some point after firing it up.
I went with a 440 cfm 6" fan from amazon. The adapter I printed for the back of the k40 was a 4" so I also got 24-6" adapters from amazon to connect it to the fan and then from the fan to the window. I used it on both sides since I had already bought a good length of 4" hose and didn't want to also buy 6" as well. I put weather stripping on all connections in the exhaust line so I have virtually no smell in my office when running it.

I got an air pump on Amazon and3D printed an adapter I got from Thingiverse for it to direct the airflow in line with the laser. I bought my tubing for the air assist at Home Depot.
I also added a drag chain to keep the hose out of the way. I bought mine on Amazon but you can print that and adapters yourself if you're up for it.

The next upgrade I did was to add the mA meter since I have a digital panel on mine. That gives a much more accurate read on the power when using the laser.
I then upgraded my control board to the Cohesion 3D Laserboard ($200)and started using Lightburn ($40) for the software. That software lets you do a LOT more with the machine and you can also add a camera to get a view of the print area in the software to help with laying out materials.

Because the new board has power management built-in I set the k40 to the max power I would want to use on a project and then control the power levels from the software. This also lets you do true grayscale images and 3D engravings.
Because I don't like to have the exhaust and air pump running all the time I also got some wifi smart plugs. Each plug has two outlets and each of those can be controlled individually. They can also be controlled by an echo so I have that setup as well. Since you can also group smart plugs in the Alexa app I have one set up for everything and when I'm done working on a project I can either tell my echo to shut off power to the group or hit the button in the app to shut it all off at once.

For water cooling I'm using a home depot bucket however I have hose couplers installed in the lid for the water lines so if I want to move things around I don't have to completely disconnect everything and pull the pump out of the water. I just pull the hoses off the top of the lid and the pump stays in the bucket. I have the plug for the pump also going through the lid with a rubber seal around it. Depending on how hot it gets in the workspace a water chiller might be recommended.

The latest item I bought is a lab jack which I'm going to use to make a manual adjustable bed. If you can make one yourself or buy one at an affordable price an automatic Z bed would be great if you want to work on larger materials. A manual adjusting bed is fine for me now though.
I still need to purchase a new bed for it and get rid of the crap that came with it. I might try to salvage it though by drilling holes in it and installing metal spikes to rais the material up off the surface.

On my list of to-dos is to get a better lens and upgrade the mirrors. I haven't had an issue with what I have now so it hasn't been a priority.

I hope this helps with your project.

Its not too bad, you'll want to put a prefilter sponge over the intake though.

Another option (one I prefer!) for bettas and small tanks in particular is a sponge filter. Something like this -- you just hook it up with some airline tubing to a Whisper 10 air pump. You can also add a control valve in the tubing between the pump and the filter itself to further control how strong the current is. Cheap and easy.

Super gentle, won't cause a bunch of surface disturbance, and no plastic parts or strong intakes to tear delicate fins -- and it provides one of the best surfaces for beneficial bacteria to grow and help keep your water quality stable.

im know nothing about stepwell living soil, but super soils should feed it for at least most of its life, may have to help in flower, but youre right to not feed them yet.

i dont know your budget but you can get meters that check ph and moisture in soil for $10 usd. they are shitty but it is a ph tester for cheap. they make digital ones for about $25. you can get digital ph pens for water for cheap too i personally would avoid the cheapest ones. blue lab makes quality testers but you wont find a new one under 100$

cut the light back a bit. do like 18/6 or 20/4. plants develop more roots during night time. its not like they dont when the lights are on, just when lights are on plants prioritize storing energy as to spending it. some strains get stressed as well from 24 hours light.

dont let your water sit for 4-5 days. get a air pump and stone and bubble it. this thing is good enough to bubble the water in a 5 gallon bucket. or if you can get a chlorine filter.

definitly test the soil and your water going in to see where its at. as you just water, the ph of the water shouldnt matter to much. but if your soils to acidic and youre adding acidic water, or if its to alkaline and youre adding alkaline water, problems compound. you probably just transplanted into to rich of soil as super soils tend to be very rich. plant got stunted as a result. if its been 2-3 weeks since transplant they dont look dead so they should recover, just will take some time

If it was me, I'd start by doing this:

• Upgrade his tank to something larger, at least 3 gallons, although something like 5 is more preferable. Despite the common misconception that bettas need a minuscule amount of space to swim around, they actually prefer larger areas. It's like keeping a horse exclusively in its stable. ...Except underwater.
  
  
• Invest in a filter (this filter requires a separate air pump but it's worth the extra cost) and a heater. Filtration and heating are necessities for bettas, and poor water quality is detrimental. Buying a water test kit will tell you everything you need to know about your fish's quality of water. If you can't afford the kit, your local fish store might be able to test the water for you if you bring a sample of it to them.
  
  
• Make sure your plastic plant is soft enough that it can't rip his fins. A good way to check is to run pantyhose over the plant, and if the pantyhose rips, the plastic is too hard. Live or silk plants are normally the way to go.
  
  I hope this helps! I know it can get a little pricey but it's more than worth it to ensure Flameo's healthy and happy.

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

• 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  
• A big roll of black duct tape. This
  
• A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  
• A couple of space blankets. This
  
• A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  
• 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  
• 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  
• Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  
• Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  
• A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  
• An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  
• Some airstones. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/)
  
• A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  
• Some air lines. This, Or This
  
• A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  
• A water dripper system. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JAY6E/)
  
• Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  
• Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36/)
  
• A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.
  
  Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
  

Everything on the list is perfect.

• 5 gallon is perfect for a betta! But if you have the space, just get a 10 gallon. Aqueon tanks 2.5, 5, and 10 gallon tanks are relatively the same price!
  
  
• Make sure the sponge filter fit accordingly with the tank you choose. I learned this the hard way lol!
  
  
• Here's a cheaper Air pump. You won't need a check valve for sponge filter.
  
  
• As for heater, just make sure the dimension fit the tank. I'm currently using this heater in my tank and it's very accurate. Not sure if it'll fit your tank though.
  
  
• I also have snails in my betta tanks! First of all, you want to make sure that your betta is not a bully by maybe adding just one. If he isn't, you can get maybe 2 in a 5 gallon tank. Snails produce a lot of waste and it doesn't look very pretty if you have more.
  
  
• I've successfully cycled a few of my tanks without the use of bottled bacteria. People say that the bottled ones are a hit or miss kind of thing, so I usually just use pure ammonia to cycle my tank.
  
  
• I'm a real plants kind of guy, so when it comes to decors, I usually pull the fake plants off and glue on with real ones like Anubias, or Java Fern.
  
  Edit- Sorry so many edits, I edit as I go lol

I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!

You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!

When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!

Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!

Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!

Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!

If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.

Lots of great comments here, I'm just going to add my experience. I dunno if they're the best practices, but it works for me for now.

I mix 5 gal at a time and that lasts about a week, maybe 10 days depending on how much runoff and when in the grow it is. I just add more water when it's low or empty and only wash it at the end of the grow, and it hasn't been bad at all (2 grows finished like this). I have a black reservoir with a 4" airstone disc and this quiet pump. I water 2x per day with a little runoff to waste after the 4th or 5th nodes come in. Sometimes it'll go a few days with no runoff if I get careless though. In the reservoir there are some bubbles or foam on top, but its over the airstone and doesn't get more than about 2" thick.

I use gen hydro flora series, armor si, gen hydro cal mag, liquid kool bloom (relatively new for me), epsom salt sometimes, recharge, and mammoth P (been out for a few weeks though). I pH the water to 5.2-5.9 and over a few days it will rise to around 6.0-6.8 or maybe up to 7 a couple times. Before I was using recharge I saw a similar rise, maybe not quite as much but I don't remember exactly. With recharge, once pH rises over time it takes a lot of pH down to lower it, much more than a fresh batch pre recharge, so I don't like to try to lower it after the fact. I wonder what reactions are happening to use up the acid and how that's affecting the nutrient availability. I may be way overthinking things though, haha

With the recharge even when the water was up to 7 the plants haven't looked bad, I was really surprised the first time I found it that high. I think the recharge helps increase the acceptable pH range, partly because it is causing the change. I could be wrong though, just guessing, and it may do less than I think. I dunno if it's good to keep recharge bubbling that long, I emailed the company but they didn't respond. I've had great results and it's really easy, so I'm gonna keep going!

These filters will take up most of the side of a 10 gallon so they're pretty big. The single filter can do 10-15 gallons so two duble ones should be good too! (also, these have 10 larger rings per sponge, others have only six or seven and are much smaller (you can count using the darker, thinner places between them in the pics)). They may cost a bit more but they're quality as far as we can tell. I've heard they may last two years or so, even up to five years.

We're using this pump in the 40-60 gallon size and it has a 4 part gangway on it. It's running three of the smaller double sponges and two breeder box lifting tubes. It's decently quiet, sounds almost like the fridge when it turns on. Just recently got louder so we threw some towels in with it and it quieted down nicely. Doesn't get too warm either.

Now for the set-up. see that clear tube that ends 2/3 of the way up next to the larger tube? That's where you will stick an air pump line. The air bubbles will get ejected into the tube and end up in the bottom of the large tube. They will then go upwards, drawing the surrounding water up with it. This action draws water through the sponge, filtering it. I would recommend that you put this as deep as you can in your take and have the exit tube barely submerged but as high as you can get it. My engineering student mind thinks that it will draw more water this way.

I'm happy to help any way I can.

Might be worth mentioning sponge filters. Tetra Whisper air pumps on Amazon run about 7 bucks and the sponge filter itself will run you all of 3 bucks and you don't have to worry about replacing cartridges or anything so that's really nice and easy for beginners!

I would recommend Seachem Stability, too! Great way to help a tank get cycled faster which is a great thing when you're fish-in cycling.

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

You've already gotten some answers but here's a little more info:

1. Either (or both) is fine, although shrimp might enjoy munching on driftwood as it slowly decays. Any aquarium driftwood is fine like you said. Shrimp do however go nuts for cholla wood. It decays over like 6 months to a year and in the meantime it provides a nice hiding and munching place. For rocks, you probably want something inert (unless you have a gH/kH you need to raise). Granite, quartzite, often sandstone (unless it's cemented with calcite), etc. If you know what to look for it's easy to go digging around in your local riverbanks or hillsides.
   
   
2. In my low tech tanks I have java moss, java fern, anubias, brazilian pennywort, crypts, and bacopa monnieri. I also have pothos and philodendron growing out of my tank (you just take a fresh cutting and stick the end in the water so it'll grow roots in the tank). Water sprite and water wisteria are a couple others that I haven't grown myself but I hear are easy.
   
   
3. My understanding is that shrimp stratum is aimed more for crystal red shrimp in that it gives you a lower pH. I would just double check that it creates conditions that are appropriate for whatever particular shrimps you want to keep.
   
   
4. You can start with a handful and you'll end up with hundreds.
   
   
5. I use a glass lid on my tank just because I don't like having to compensate for evaporation. My larger tank's lid came with a plastic back where you can cut out sections for the filter and cords and such. My smaller tank has a little indent on the corner of the rim so that cables can fit through.
   
   
6. If you're getting a sponge filter, you need to buy the sponge+pump+tubing. Other filters (internal filters, hang-on-backs, etc) are an all-in-one thing. Sponge filters are great for shrimp but you can use other filters too as long as there's no way for bebe shrimp to get sucked up (so like covering the intake with a bit of sponge if needed). If you want a sponge filter, something like A B C will work (haven't used any of these personally so I can't vet for them, just googled it).

1. Cay is clay, I have not seen anything to suggest otherwise. I buy from a local hydro shop because he matches amazons price. Leca is the brand, but Hydrocorn from Gold is good too.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Leca-Clay-Orchid-Hydroponic-Media/dp/B004IAP7JW/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=hydroton
   
   
2. The air pump I have had the most success with is a Tetra Whisper. It sits outside all day, every day, for a year now, and it seems fine.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77848-Whisper-Pump-40-Gallon/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1409410615&sr=8-6&keywords=aquarium+air+pump
   
   
3. Low quality plastics might give off some particulates, but that shouldn't hurt your plants
   
   Best of luck!
   

Remember, you will have to do regular water changes as maintenance (I do 20% every other week). The cheapest and most economical way in the long run is:

1. Purchase a Reverse Osmosis kit from ebay. These are the best prices I've found recently.
   
   
2. Purchase salt. You can go with the cheaper grade if you're doing a FOWLR since you're not concerned with trace elements.
   
   
3. Mix it up at home. You will want to use an aerator to keep oxygen levels up to promote good mixing.
   
   I recommend against purchasing from the fish store, or taking it from the ocean.
   
   Have fun! You're starting a really nice hobby :)

You won't need to change it ever, just clean it/rinse it with used (non-chlorinated!) tank water while you're doing tank maintenance every so often. (I clean my betta's sponge filter real good once or twice a month by giving it a few good squeezes in a bucket of used water before I throw it out.)

Basically you'll want a small air pump like this along with a tank-size appropriate sponge filter. I recommend one like this *and some airline tubing to connect them :)

Cheap and good regulators exist. The new mini regulators either have SMC or Legris valves but the main difference is the price slapped on it.

Aqua-Labs $53


UNS $95


JARDIL $99


Nilocg $100


ADA 200 euros



And then there was the mini GLA regulator that they tried selling for $185 even though the regulator body is just from the brewing industry which could be bought for ~$60. Though I will admit that the Fabco valve on that one isn't cheap.


If you're willing to go DIY, you could build a nice dual stage regulator for about half (or less) of what GLA sells a dual stage for.

This is a 4x4 Flood Table built for a 5x5 tent. Just need to find good medium and I'll be popping seeds :) Glad to be back at it!

Current Plan:
> ##Ebb & Flow:
> Finished Table
> Tray: 4x4 Botanicare Tray
> Fittings
> Pump: Active Aqua Submersible Water Pump, 400 GPH
> Drain Hose: 1/2" Inside Diameter)
)
> Pump Hose: 3/4" Inside Diameter
> Rubber Grommets: 1/2 inch

> Stand: 5x5 Wood Frame (Building this weekend)
> Reservoir: 55 Gal.
> Air Pump: 95 GPH
> Air Diffuser: 4x Air Stones




> ##Medium:
> Germination: Starter Plugs
> 6 inch Net Pot
> Hydroton (but willing to be convinced otherwise!!!)
> 4 x 4 Coco Mat


> ##Environment:
> Tent: 5 x 5
> Light 1: 1100W DE HPS bulb w iPower Ballast & Extend-A-Wing reflector
> Light 2: 600W of QBs
> AC inside, Venting Outside with 450CFM fan

> ##Nutrients:
>
> Flora Trio
> KoolBloom
> Diamond Nectar
> Armor Si
> Floralicious Plus
> Humboldt Snowstorm
> Mammoth P
> * Hydrogaurd

> Strain: Sweet Amnesia (from seed)



ANY AND ALL ADVICE IS APPRECIATED!!!

If you're doing daily changes and using a dechlorinator you'll be be fine but an ammonia spike may happen sooner rather than later. Your best bet is a sponge filter. Usually graded higher than the tank you're in (using a 20g get a 30+ sponge). A powerful air pump is also a good idea.

I use a 55 gallon double sponge (in a 33g long) that you can get on Amazon for 10 dollars. Will link the air pump for you if you are interested. Adjustable flow and 4 outlets for bubblers if you wanna use one down the line.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ILGHAU

Firstly, welcome to the club!

You're absolutely right - buy the accessories and consumables elsewhere. FSL don't make these and are having to mark up things due to providing a warranty and service.

Here's a good quiet fan that will do the job and is a legit 200CFM (a lot of them lie about capacity).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVTGB4C/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does come with basic optics which will be fine until you need to replace them in a few years.

You'll need a bucket and some tubing for the distilled water (that's what the pump is for). You'll also need an air assist which is nothing more than a airbursh or large aquarium pump.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDKRYC6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06XDKRYC6&pd_rd_w=6o93T&pf_rd_p=10ebaf99-73de-4f5d-a994-e7f5fc52f86f&pd_rd_wg=o8iAi&pf_rd_r=WF7KZ4A648958FA1NRB9&pd_rd_r=0180bd8d-2a82-11e9-888f-47f1b1d850e8

That's it really apart from materials to laser.
Good luck and don't forget to hear over to the unofficial full spectrum laser forums for more specific help.

Bubbles are great for both playing and helping a little bit with oxygenation in your tank (but not a whole lot). My oranda loves to play in them. You really can't go wrong by adding one I don't think, unless you find down the line your fish likes to eat bubbles.

I use Tetra Whispers. I have a 10g one and the 40g one - what you're seeing in the pictures is the 40g on a split air line, full blast. They're not that noisy - not that much if at all noiser than the filter you use at least. I have one on a non-slip pad and the other on a hand towel and they're quiet. The air stone is just a generic one I got offline, it's circular.

Thanks for the response, Henry!

I was initially pretty nervous that I had prematurely ordered the wrong size tent, but after mulling it over, and then reading your comments, I think this will be perfect.

The booklet that I was referring to is just some printed material that came with the light, and makes no reference to the model, or the brand for that matter. I'm sure, as you suggested, it's just a generic reference to a broad range of products.

On a side note - I bought an air pump that came with two ~1.5 inch stones (3-4 cm) and is labeled as 5w or 3.5L/min. It wasn't until I plugged it in to test it that I realized it may be too weak.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L17IPEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any thoughts?

Thanks again for all your help! I'll definitely be sure to post updates and pictures as this process gets rolling.

Keep it until it's falling apart - same as the sponge. It should take a long time, perhaps years. Just clean them periodically. The only things you need to replace regularly are the optional filter components: carbon every 3-4 weeks and loose filter floss as needed.

I've been running the Aquaclear 30 on a tank for 16 months and the sponges and ceramic are still in great shape. I keep two sponges at the bottom and two bags of ceramic on top. No carbon. I've replaced the prefilter once.

Doubling up on the media is beneficial in a couple ways. First, it's extra room for bacteria to grow. Second, once it's seeded you can take some if you need it for a new, hospital, or QT tank.

For instance: Last month I set up a small QT tank and instantly cycled it by taking some of the Aquaclear 30's media. I used this $5 filter with this $7 air pump plus some airline and the tank was up and running. I replaced what I took from the 30 with fresh media and the next time I need another tank I'll repeat the process. 😀

https://smile.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-XY-2831/dp/B078T77JB7/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=sponge%2Bfilter&qid=1567390654&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1

I like this style of sponge filter, if you want to seed a second tank you can take one of the sponges off and move it to your new tank, the 'neck' of the filter is also adjustable so you can change it to suit your water level

https://smile.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=17VOB87VMMJW7&keywords=tetra+whisper+air+pump&qid=1567390717&s=gateway&sprefix=tetra+whisper+%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-1

This is the air pump I use, I've tried a few brands and these are my favorite. They are quiet and tend to be reliable

https://smile.amazon.com/Patelai-Pieces-Valves-Device-Aquarium/dp/B07H33NN41/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=check+valve+airline+tubing&qid=1567390757&s=gateway&sr=8-6

I also HIGHLY recommend using a check valve. This is important because if you have a power outage and the water starts to back siphon it wont fry your pump, if that did happen the worst case scenario is an electrical fire

The basic set up is attach some airline tubing to your filter, cut some of the tubing and put the check valve in, then use another length of tubing to attach your pump. Its pretty simple though sometimes the tubing will be a little tricky to attach. I like to keep my tubing longer than I need, it can help to create a drip loop (extra safety precaution) and it makes moving the pump around easier

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

The air flow on the tetra whisper 10g is pretty low, I'd get a stronger pump and an airline splitter. I have a tetra whisper 40g I got for about 8 dollars on amazon that runs a big sponge filter and (with a splitter) 2 additional airstones that I use to aerate my tap water jug to help gas off. The good thing about the splitters is if the pump is too strong you can use the valve to lessen airflow, or make 1 thing strong flow and 2 things light flow etc.

To piggyback off of Betta fish, besides the tank you can get your filter, heater, and light for pretty cheap.
Here's what I have:

filter
Air pump
light
heater

Altogether it might not be the cheapest items, but they work fantastic for me and my Betta and shrimp tank. Plus it costs less to get good filters and supplies first than it is to buy a beginner set and upgrade everything over time like I did.

this is what it all looks like in my tank.

Tank: I would suggest a 10G tank if you want tankmates other than ghost shrimps and snails. Petco $1 per Gallon sale is here until April 12. So a 10G would be $10. A 5G isn't part of the sale so the price of that is around $14. Cheaper to get a 10G!

Once of you an appropriate sized tank, some tetras would work or an ADF would work. What kind of tetras are you thinking of getting? Keep in mind that there are quite a few tetras that won't work with Bettas because they nip the long fins of the Betta.



Filter: I would suggest a sponge filter/air pump. That's what I use in my betta tank. It filters the water but don't create a current so the betta won't get pushed around and stressed.

What you'd need for a sponge filter:

• Sponge filter
  
  
• Air pump
  
  
• [Airline tubing] (http://www.amazon.com/Lees-Airline-Tubing-25-Foot-Standard/dp/B0002APXOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396795175&sr=8-2&keywords=airline+tubing)
  
  
  
  Heater: I haven't used enough heaters to really recommend a brand but adjustable ones would work the best and you can control the temperature better.
  
  I hope this helps!
  

Set up for TWO Axolotls

Realistic initial set up cost $145
(Not including cost of axolotls)

$5-$150 30g tank MINIMUM preferably 40+ (OfferUp Facebook groups Craigslist pet stores)

$1-$130Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 for each (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$75 Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump (link of canister filter is what I use in my 55g tank )

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

SUN 4-Stage Aquarium External Canister Filter with 9 Watt UV Sterilizer 264GPH (HW402B with Pro Filter Kits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFCS6W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CVv7AbX67HQED

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle it helps keeps the water healthy for the axolotls too

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 100 Gallon, 250-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

You already saw my other comment, but I'll add one more thing here: You might want to consider a small "sponge filter" for a 6.6 gallon tank instead of the hang-over-back filter. Most hang-over-back filters are for 10 gallons or more, so if you can't find a smaller one, just get these materials for a sponge filter:

• a small sponge filter. They look like this.
  
• a small air pump, like this.
  
• "airline" tubing to connect the pump to the filter. Like this.
  
• an airline valve. Like this. You'll need this to lower the amount of air being pumped to the filter. For a 6.6 gallon tank, you don't need much air to keep the tank filtered. Start out with the valve all the way open (lots and lots of bubbles, the tank will look like a hurricane is blowing through). Then, slowly close the valve until the water looks calm and the fishies don't look like they're fighting a current.
  
  The nice thing about sponge filters is you rarely need to clean them. I've run them for over a year without cleaning them and never had an issue. Super convenient.

Looks great, good work. If you want to speed up growth, buy a small aquarium air pump, and a cheap airstone. They have a lot of combo's on amazon for under $15.

I too started because of Jeb, humorously enough and now I have 5 foot tall plants in my man cave. Grow for the stars.

I use a Tetra Whisper 10-Gallon air pump, with one check valve to prevent back flow, going into a 4-way gang valve, hooked up to three mini cyclinder sponge filters. The 4th output on the gang valve is closed.

I have 3x bowls. Two are 3gal, the other is 2gal (for now).

You could use a setup like this, with the gang valve only outputting to your tank, mostly closed to keep the pressure low. If necesarry you could open up one of the empty outputs on the gang valve to bleed off excess pressure, but I don't know if that's necessary, and it might make more noise that way. With my setup, I can barely hear the air pump, and the gentle bubbling in the bowls is nice.

It's a really great setup if you plan on getting more fish, in seperate bowls/tanks.

You need some airline tubing, a check valve, and an air pump to make this work. I listed the links for those below. Other than its size I think it will be okay for a 10 gallon tank. for the 29g tank it depends on what youre stocking. If you want to keep things like shrimp or fry then a sponge filter is probably best because its gentle. If youre keeping adult fish then go with a hob. I recommend an aquaclear 50.

Airline kit with accessories:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0IC9JA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

HOB:
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506690345&sr=1-3&keywords=aquaclear&th=1

Aquarium salts can help with fin rot. Macaryn Two is also a good choice. Be careful with aquarium salts though. Don't dose every time you do a water change like normal medication.

Also, I second the sponge filters. You can get one for a 10g one (which I'd recommend because the more filtration, the better) for like $5 on amazon. Plus you'd need an air pump which are also relatively cheap.

-Sponge Filter

-Air Pump

A small sponge filter with an air pump. You'll need air tubing but that's cheap too. A small valve can be useful to control the amout of airflow and make less water flow if the pump is too strong. I've used this heater in both 5g and 10g tanks.

If you haven't already, read a guide on cycling your tank so you know how to get it all set up and safe for the fish. If you have the fish in a small bowl or something right now you will want to read up on a "fish-in cycle".

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Basic model, very little flow that mostly goes up.

Double spongy action, with an outlet that can be placed above the waterlevel (even less flow!).

Corner filter, has more room for other types of filtermedia, a bit harder to clean depending on what you stuff it with. Has a cute little outlet that prevents our idiots from getting stuck.

I really like this one, it's quiet and comes with a valve

tubing

valve

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Combination of parts from Amazon and ebay. Not all of them are necessary, fittings and Brute trashcans and such are from Home Depot.

• 12v, 20A power supply ($17)
  Runs the lights, pump, fans, and other electronics. Kind of excessive. 5A would be enough.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4
  
  
• Check valves, x2 ($10)
  Don't cheap out on these. Crappy plastic check valves really screwed me early on.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZOCQMA
  
  
• Shutoff valves, x2 ($12)
  Needed for priming the pump or flushing the nutrient reservoir.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018HMFG7O
  
  
• Mylar ($10)
  This was roughly 4x what I actually needed.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8PAAJW
  
  
• Leca ceramic substrate, 4 pounds ($18)
  Transplanting the sprouts into this was weird, but they took well to it.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IAM29K
  
  
• Vinyl tubing 25ft ($12)
  Everything I chose was 5/16 inner diameter.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CGVJ9QG
  
  
• Net pots, 5in, X20 ($13)
  Hydroponic pots, specifically for Leca substrate.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9AE9BE
  
  
• Air bubbler ($13)
  I think that dripping from two feet aerates the water naturally, but this can't hurt.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L17IPEO
  
  
• Warm white LED strip ($11)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339F5ZO
  
  
• Cool white LED strip ($11)
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339G2F6
  
  
• 270W UFO Light ($60)
  Wait for sales on these! The 270W light is $80 now, but I got it for $60.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RWQ4B50
  
  
• Sealing foam ($8)
  To make the door airtight.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011CXIPO6
  
  
• Nutrients ($33)
  This will be enough for a bunch of grows. A little goes a long way.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
  
  
• pH Control Kit ($18)
  Will also last a long time. Only takes a few drops to balance a gallon.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
  
  
• Activated carbon filter, 4 inch ($40)
  This thing was bigger than I anticipated.
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E582DV2/
  
  
• Barbed T splitters x10 ($10)
  For making the irrigation loops.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/302176243137
  
  
• 12v PC fan ($3)
  Loud as heck. Ended up using a quieter fan I had around.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/272508816366
  
  
• 12v pump ($15)
  Quiet as heck. Rated for 2.1GPM. It's enough, but I think that a 5GPM pump would have been better.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/272403296601

Sponge filter!! I use these off Amazon in my 10G’s and my 5.5G and they’re great! Plus: you’ll have an extra sponge you can use if you need to set up a new cycled tank ASAP (like for a new buddy or a quarantine tank). Highly recommend! :D



Edit: you will need an air pump with it though. I use the standard Tetra Whisper also off Amazon. :)

I’d advise using red slime remover. I’ve used it twice over the 5 years I’ve had my tank and it worked great both times.

First, do a water change and remove as much of it as possible that way.
Next, turn your lights off for the entire time you’re dosing your tank.
Dose in the morning and then it says to dose again after 48 hours if necessary. I’d highly advise doing the second dose even if you think your tank doesn’t need it. The first time I did it I only did the first dose and the red slime started to come back not too long after I did it so I had to do it again with both doses.

A few other things:
-Make sure your protein skimmer if turned OFF the whole time!
-I’d also advise using an air pump to pump oxygen into your tank while dosing. I put the tube that’s connected to the pump right under my return pump so it pumps it through my returns.
-Once you’re done with everything, you’ll need to do a couple water changes before your skimmer doesn’t bubble like crazy.

Red Slime Remover—https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ultralife-red-slime-remover.html

Air pump—Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R2ivDbNV8C4C0

Feel free to ask me if you have any other questions

I am using this https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Outlets-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1488314150&sr=8-10&keywords=aquarium+air+pump. I have it mounted underneath the tank stand and its more than enough power to run 2 of the massive corner sponge filters you can get on amazon. its super quiet, small, and best of all its adjustable flow/noise. as a bonus it will come with some extra kit or you can order the pump alone. i went with the kit so i could get the check valves because i was mounting it way below the water level. if you are running a single filter it comes with a T so you can convert the 2 outputs into 1 and also comes with some line and airstones.

This comes with everything except the flow valve. I haven't used this so I cannot say anything about how well this one works but you can find similar packages online or in pet stores.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_supnDb2VGYJ68

Misting should be avoided, it causes floods over time and attracts bugs. With the right substrate mixture and a sealed tank your humidity should basically indefinitely stay perfect. Bubblers help raise humidity too.

Nah, never skimp out on airstones and filtration. Female bettas are solitary except in very large, heavily planted tanks, they are very aggressive fish too. High quality pellets like hikari pellets should be alternated with frozen food, my bettas usually took both. Flower pot is for a hiding cave, and ducky might be too bright and stress out the fish. Natural decor looks prettier imo than man made stuff anywho, especially if you do it right. Never use test strips, they're expensive and innacurate, liquid test kits are the better option. Basically add seachem stability to the water for as long as it says, and put fish food in to make ammonia for the bacteria to feed on. Once you hit 0 ammonia and nitrite you're good.

For filtration supplies my recommendations are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NP8W84/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T5060PXA17HMGYQ77ABQ&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M73HJGY41F3HX940NJJG&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076S3D75C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539721622&sr=8-4&keywords=small+airstone&dpPl=1&dpID=41QZJrnKZZL&ref=plSrch
And of course seachem prime and stability

Cool. Maybe getting a sponge filter is good since it's good to learn other filtering options. It seems like sponge filters need some air pump and airline (please correct me if I am mistaken).

Would the following, airline and pump, be the only additional things I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0V8RYSC7JNHZTRN6D913

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511318178&sr=8-3&keywords=air+pump+fish

Yes, please come to /r/bettafish

When I had my betta in the 10, I used this sponge filter with this air pump. That air pump is great because you can adjust the flow rate down. He did just fine with that at about a medium to low rate.

Now he's in a 29 gallon, and I've got an AquaClear 50. On that one I adjust the flow rate to about half, and he tolerates it swimmingly (ha!).

I've had two bettas (separated) sharing a 5-gallon portrait tank while I've been trying to cycle a second identical tank. Several months in and several restarts later I'm having zero luck fishless cycling, despite having been successful in the first tank. I mean, the first tank is really doing well, apart from having two fish in it.

So I'm starting "fresh" (so to speak) in the new tank, completely replaced the water twice (Prime both rounds), next I'm trying a sponge filter; I've ordered a biologically active sponge and a small air pump, the idea being when both arrive I'll plop them in and have cycled media.

Other than the obvious API test kit tests, is there anything I should have to do before moving one of the bettas into his new tank? Should I continue running the powered filter while the sponge is going, too?

I recommend a sponge filter. (That's what I switched to after discovering a hang on back filter created too much flow for my betta.)

Here is a link to more information on how these work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z52ZsA2IxP4

You will need an air pump (I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YF4FI), filter (https://www.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Aquarium-Sponge-Filter-Breeding/dp/B078HDL21V/, but there are many other options around), and tubing. I also recommend getting a check valve & throttling valve. These should be like $1 each at your local fish store.

Man,
I’ve been all over the place researching and dam.
Ahaha

I think I’ve got my set up.

I’m going to hold to your advice and start with 1 bucket - 5 gal. DWC grow. If I have a good harvest I will move it up to two 5 gal buckets.

I’ve decided On a separate veg and a separate flower tent.

I will start with buying clones from a local bud shop.

For Veg I will get a 2x2x4.5 tent
Topo grow kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075KCL71M/ref=ox_sc_act_image_7?smid=A1CLX3M21C6YH2&psc=1

I plan to run a CMH at 4200k (Phillips).

For flower I will get a 3x3x7 ( I’d increase to 8)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014263RJI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_11?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I plan to run a CMH at 3100k (Phillips)

Air pump for the DWC ( I would one for each tent)

I found - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XDKRYC6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_9?smid=A2PQGFJXAT8J9K&psc=1

For circulation I found ( I would buy one for each tent)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078SXNJ21/ref=ox_sc_act_image_6?smid=A3OJY9E0ZY1FCH&psc=1

And would add two of these fans into each tent

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000U9V47E/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Have a basic titan mechanical timer ( 2 of them)
4 vivosun air stones 4x2
2 Digital humidity / temp reader
4 - 5gal buckets



Any concerns ?
Thus far purchase is at $1600

So I've actually helped a few other amateur/semi-professional inflators with equipment and funding before. One that I hear recommended is the JW Pet Company Fusion 400 Aquarium Air Pump
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018CDR68?keywords=aquarium%20pump&qid=1458256089&ref_=sr_ph&sr=1

And I would like to say that you have certainly hit the jackpot.

Here is a super quiet airstone and pump. Use with the surface skimmer for great water quality... Uniclife Aquarium Adjustable Air Pump Single 2 L/min 2.5 W Fish Tank Oxygen Pump with Air Tube Valve Stone Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XS1DCG6/

What are you doing to cycle your tank? If you don't know the answer to this question, take a look at the Fishless Cycling Guide to understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly prepare your tank for animals.

If you don't have a filter in your tank yet, you haven't really begun to prepare the tank for inhabitants until you do. For a sponge filter, you will need a sponge filter, airline tubing, and air pump. I also strongly recommend you purchase check valves and control valves to prevent the airline from becoming a siphon and draining your tank in the event of a power outage or air pump failure, and to control the airflow to your filter, respectively.

The ideal water quality results are 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm Nitrites, 20ppm or lower Nitrates. Your pH is fine for ADFs. A fully cycled tank should be able to convert 4ppm of added Ammonia to the tank completely to Nitrates within 24hrs. Once you test your water within 24hrs and find this result, it is ready for animals.

ADF names: Frogsby, Frogbert, and Fred.

For my setup, I’ve used The Tetra Whisper Air Pump (link at botton). You put a check valve (see 2nd link) on the end of the tube attached to the pump. On the other side of the tube you put the air stone (also in 2nd link). Th air stone goes in the water and “bubbles”, thats why we call it a “bubbler”. It has dual benefits in that it is the most effective way to humidify your tank and the movement in the water keeps it fresh for longer.


https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=bubbler+pump&qid=1565723778&s=gateway&sr=8-3


https://www.amazon.com/Pawfly-Standard-Aquarium-Accessories-Connectors/dp/B07FZY71K6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_3/137-2577294-4867509?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07FZY71K6&pd_rd_r=1974bd54-ba73-425a-96f4-b27b02ebbe2f&pd_rd_w=7mVYj&pd_rd_wg=b8F1Q&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=VNHBEDMXVJNSW6SHZ0M4&psc=1&refRID=VNHBEDMXVJNSW6SHZ0M4

Even expensive and quiet aquarium pumps are nowhere near the lpm/gph of the one linked above. My laser-cutter's air pump is a 1100 gph one which translates to 70 lpm.

The top-of-the-line, and far quieter, Whisper-300 from Tetra produces about 10 lpm, I have 4 of them on my 600-gallon aquarium... I tried several air-pumps before choosing the Tetra for its quietness (the laser is in the garage, I don't care about the noise. The aquarium is in the living-room wall. I do care about noise there :)

Now, whether you need more than a Whisper-300 can deliver, I don't know. My limited understanding is that the better the air delivery, the better you can do deep cuts, up until the air-delivery is producing a detrimental cooling effect. That's why I went big, and put a valve on it to adjust the pressure.

At the moment, I'm letting the air go full-blast. I'll start characterising the laser when my macken-knock-off power-meter arrives and part of that is going to be air-assist effects.

A 5 gallon bucket (free to $10), an aquarium air pump and airstone($2-20), MegaCrop one-part plant food 300g sampler ($7 shipped). It's about as simple and low-cost as it gets, just sharing the love for hydro (in case you change your mind someday).

I will perhaps do you one better and link you to my build album.

Not pictured anywhere in there (kind of a glaring oversight, now I think about it...) is the 50w Eheim heater in the first chamber, and the Tetra Whisper air pump under the table.

Edit: I do see the merit in an actual parts list, as it were... honestly I've been kind of curious to see what all I've spent on this tank over the last 6-8 months... will try to put one together later today.

5g sponge filter, air pump

easy to clean just rinse the sponge filter in tank water, separated from the tank like in a bucket, every other week.

A great air pump is $4.19 right now:

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/

Thanks to /u/happuning for pointing that out to me!

You could try this pump out, looks great!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00511P8CS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A39G1UAOFK1OOE&psc=1

Be sure to also pick up the air pump;

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009YJ4N6&pd_rd_r=QYZDEBFVK4HDGMKK5HE2&pd_rd_w=wYWS0&pd_rd_wg=hoOdK&psc=1&refRID=QYZDEBFVK4HDGMKK5HE2&dpID=51PhS3RJRSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

and tubing

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L4BV1E2/ref=twister_B01L4BV1VK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have a 5 gallon I’m selling with a light, heater, and HOB filter for $60 so definitely put your zip code! But before I upgraded my tank I had a simple sponge filter with air pump from amazon, a Nicrew light, and driftwood from a local store that cost me $10... in total my first set up was... air pump , sponge filter , Nicrew light (that was $14 when I got it...) and the tank $10, lid $10, driftwood $10= about $8”:) or you can do this HOB heater

Oh and for plants in this sub, there’s tons of people that sell good, tons of plants, good priced! I got TONS OF PLANTS for $20-$30 from bquad. But he isn’t the only one

Which pump did u get? I use this Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jaYlDbMBEJQNF , with a 3d printed nozzle and works great

I have this one and it works great. It’s nice and simple. Make sure to get an adapter.


JARDLI Aquarium CO2 Regulator with Solenoid for Planted Tank CO2 Injection System - Adjustable Output Pressure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M68PXSB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-WmnDbBR6YESD

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Commercial-Aquarium-Hydroponic-Systems/dp/B06XDKRYC6/

This actually looks excellent for the air system. I could have it protected in its own tote, with hoses leading to my buckets.

ezpz! in addition to the sponge filter itself, this is what you need:

1. air pump $7.11
   
2. airline tubing $3.47
   
3. check valves $5.42
   
   optional:
   suction cups $5.09
   
   splitters & extra valves $6.29 the air pump comes with a control valve, but it's always nice to have extras + this comes with splitters in case you want to use one pump for multiple tanks or to attach an air stone.

I just use a large storage tote you can pick up at a home improvement store, just about anywhere really. For an air pump, something like this will work just fine: EcoPlus 2 Outlet Pump.

Stones.

I keep my res out of the tent so it doesn't heat up, but you could probably keep it inside as long as temps aren't too bad. I use the 3 gal pots because they will dry out within a day, so multiple feeds per day are a requirement to keep everything moving along. With larger pots, you might not be able to feed quite as often without wasting nutes.

SPONGE FILTER!! !!

You'll need an air pump, air line, a thing to adjust the airflow with, and a check valve. [This one] (https://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Company-Fusion-Aquarium/dp/B0018CFMUW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1494366457&sr=8-11&keywords=air+pump+aquarium) works really great! Plus, they're better for betta's fins. There's no getting stuck in these.

I'm very happy with my sponge filter! Here's my set-up:

• Filter = Jardin Economy Corner In-tank Filter
  
• Pump = JW Pet Fusion 200
  
• Airline tubing = Penn Plax Standard 8-ft
  
• Check valve = Lee's 2-way Plastic Valve
  

A foam box is a good idea. I'm in a single 5gal bucket. I got this kinda shitty air pump with 2 air stones.

I did a search on "air pump" in /r/hydro and one of the top posts showed pictures of taking a pump like mine apart and hot gluing the pieces that rattle, I might try that first. But in the comments of that post someone mentioned a venturi and got me thinking about this.

Hey guys,

​

I saw this awesome video by Derek Gilman about an automated curing system he had built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jho0qeTUZnA

​

His rig is with 5 gallon gamma lid buckets, and he loads about 2 pounds in each one. The way the system works is you put your dried bud in the buckets, and you hook up an air pump to the buckets, on a timer. The timer I have set is for 15 mins every 24 hours. (The timer kicks on the pump, pushing air through the buckets, and auto shuts off after 15 mins). You install little valve outlets on the container and they exhaust out the old the air when the pump comes on, and then seal back up when it shuts off.

Being a micro grower who grows autos that yield ~100g, at about 179 grams a gallon I would be nowhere close to filling a 5 gallon gamma lid bucket, and even at 2 gallons I'm still a bit short.

So, I went to the store and found 1 gallon airtight food containers and it works! I was able to fit a Seedsman Zkittlez Auto I just got finished drying/trimming and ready for cure.

The system I built is:

- Aquarium Air pump, ideally with a built in manifold so you can hook up multiple containers: (NON AFFILIATE LINKS!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ILGHAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Air line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Check Valves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKJXZ78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 3/16" Drill bit

- 1 Gallon airtight food storage container https://www.walmart.com/ip/Better-Homes-Gardens-Flip-Tite-Square-Food-Container-16-Cups/370961661

- Timer with 15 min increments: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I noticed that the pressure was a little too high when I had only one check valve as the outlet and it was causing the lid to pop up, so I added two more. If you are growing photos, you're most likely yielding more than I do with my auto plants, so you'd prolly be able to just use the 2 gallon gamma buckets, which should hold about 1/2-3/4 pound. https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Black-Bucket-Screw-threaded/dp/B018BFY2KY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=2+gallon+gamma&qid=1574473805&sr=8-5

Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.

For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html

A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478978662&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge+filter

An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1478978931&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=10+g+heater&psc=1

That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.

Get a regular pump that you would find at a pet store. Something like this : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004LOWF7W/ref=s9_top_hm_b3FMlvv_g199_i5.

The most import part is the airstones. Get 2 big ones and attach them to both end of the hose and put each airstone on separate ends of the tub. I'm currently growing 8 auto flowers, 4 each in separate 5 gallon totes and that's what I'm doing, look at my previous post history to see if that's something that would work out for you and look at my results. You can't get too much oxygen, the more oxygenated the water : the better the nutrient are absorbed.

Petco currently has a $1 per gallon sale up to 29 gallons, I believe. If you wanted a bigger aquarium now'd be a good time to get a bigger aquarium. Your choice of fish is very limited with a 5 gallon. You can either get a betta or some shrimps.

Take your time and do research. No need to rush. It's always better to do your research and go to a pet store knowing what you want rather than impulsively buying anything. Most pet store staff also generally don't know much more than the average person about fish so take anything they say with a grain of salt.

EDIT: You need an airpump, not an air stone for the sponge filter! That's a really big mistake I made.

These are what I ordered for my 20 gallon aquarium, the size of the air pump is what matters so get a 10 gallon air pump for your 5 gallon aquarium unless you decide to upgrade. I'm also on a budget so these seem to be the best items for those on a budget

Sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051XIN78/ref=psdcmw_2975472011_t2_B005VAFGKI

Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I35X82DPLWBEQ2&colid=74EPT83Y85GU&th=1&psc=1

Air tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C7MX7DQQ39GFPW8XDMM3

Hey, I know pretty much nothing about fish, but I want to get a really cheap feeder goldfish. I really don't want to spend any money though. I had a few questions if anyone can help me out.

Will it make it survive significantly longer if I put it in a regular glass fish tank with one of these air pumps?

Something like this, maybe a little bit bigger depending on the size of your stock tank. They keep up the dissolved oxygen in the water for the fish to breathe. I do have to say that products like these don't work as good as a solid population of grasses and such things, but to keep your fish alive for a few hours it'd do the trick.

I've seen a lot of people talk about the whisper pumps (good and a few bad). I think the one I use for the filter on my QT tank's a whisper and it's fine - This one's a bestseller on Amazon with plenty of good reviews to constitute 9 bucks.

I think it's a safe bet, and holy crap do people hate the Q5.

I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.

Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:

1. Buckets https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPJ4896
   
2. Lids https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072C3G5CJ
   
3. Hydroton https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KYYZ9DE
   
4. Nutrients https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
   
5. pH Control https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
   
6. pH/TDS Tester https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKMH86J
   
7. Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO9BY
   
8. Water tubing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DL0Y9O
   
9. Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YF4FI
   
10. Air Stone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9DL67H
    
11. Air Line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW
    
12. Growlight (Already own) Galaxyhydro 300w LED Grow Light Full Spectrum
    
    ​
    
    The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.

Sure, sponge filters are great for fish that don't like flow in the tank. All you need is an air pump like this, some airline tube, and the actual sponge filter. The air stone pulls the water through the sponge. The sponge provides surface area for bacteria to grow on. Dead simple. Safe to use in any aquarium type I can think of. They're pretty simple to DIY together too, but they're so cheap, I don't see the point. Your LFS probably has them sitting in their tanks.

Air pump Air line Filter

Sponge filters really are the best when it comes to shrimp tanks. I would only do a betta if you added a fish, but you also run the risk of the betta eating the shrimp. Ghost shrimp or neocaridina would be great.

I have a tetra whisper like this one and a sponge filter like this one on my bedroom tank and I can't hear it.

You should look into getting it filtered and cycled.

Get something like this and put in some of this in the tank. You can hook the filter up to something like this. There should be more info in the side bar and check out r/bettafish

You might be able to split those 2 outlets on your air pump and use 8 of the smallest airstones you can find, but i do not anticipate much success... this is roughly 0.9L/min per 15L Res.

You want as much air as you can get to the solution and the roots.


I use one of these with 2 of the airlines going to each of 2x 19L reservoirs, which is roughly 5L/min per 19L Res.


I suggest using one of these and having a 4"x2" airstone connected to each airline. This will be around 8.75L/min per Res.

I recommend this one make sure you get the large version that has the double sponges. Then you just connect an air pump with some airline tubing

whats the difference between this two tetra pumps?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000GZ1EX6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1


https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

and to clean the sponge filter?

Main expenses in a small tank will be coral frags. Maybe you can get them cheap at local aquarium club, in the reef store if they offer single head frags for $5-10 each, on on AquaBids or AquaSwap here. If online, shipping could cost more that few corals, it should be fast or animals could die.

Don't start with xenia or gsp, add them a lot later. LPS are a safe bet, with few exceptions, but they need feeding.

Before starting, get familiar with small scale reef keeping, if has different rules than keeping 5-300 gal reef tanks. EcoReef Zero is as simple as it could get. Another version of it. Caveat: this large coral costs a lot, but you could use single head frag (piece of coral, as a plant cutting for plants) of neon green candycane as well, or rescue open brain (not trachyphillia or scolymia, see images online, cynarina or doughnut coral are OK if mouth is not open and there are no rotten flesh). If small biomass coral, keep some biomedia in the tank, from piece of live rock to Seachem Matrix in the filter, or both.

Next: you will need salt mix, AquaForest and Red Sea Coral Pro salt mixes seems to be gentler in small systems than all others, but Matritza reef vase (do search for this) uses the cheapest Instant Ocean salt mix (it has high alkalinity, harsh on corals IMHE). Bucket for mixing, and something to measure salinity. Refractometer with AccuraSea or other calibrating solution at 35 ppt salinity. Floating hydrometer is cheaper and accurate, but you will have to use high glass cylinder to be able to see from the side and use temperature related conversion table, unlike with refractometer.

Test kits: many are the same as for FW, ammonia, nitrite for cycling, KH for alkalinity, if you keep up with water changes, maybe you can live without nitrate and phosphate test kits. Find brandon429 and his subgallon pico and reef bowl, he used saltwater from LFS without testing at all.

Lights could be as Maritza reef vase uses, 12-24W ABI PAR38 LED, 2/3 blue, 1/3 white. In gooseneck mount or desktop arm lamp, shade removed. It has to be positioned high, 9-14" above water level.

Heater (50W Tetra or Aqueon preset at 78F are enough).

Source of water flow is tricky:
The cheap and good is noisy, as with Maritza reef vase or Reef bowl, air pump, witch airline tubing and check valve.

Or the smallest internal filter, like this, I'm using Tom Dive clean, with or without filter media cage.

Even smallest fountain pump will work, but, unlike Tom, it will heat water in the summer.

Now how difficult:

• You have to get or make saltwater, heat and aerate it.
  
  
• Prepare LR. LR, if not with a coral on it, was flying for days without water and will have some die-off with ammonia spike, killing anything alive, so change water frequently until die off stops. You can do that not in the tank, but in a jar or container with heater, flow and some light.
  
  
• Set tank (container with live rock, could be tank, plastic box or a punch bowl from thrift store, with no traces of soap), heater, piece of LR (at least fist sized), source of flow, light.
  
  
• Cycle it, the same as with FW.
  
  
• Do water change to reduce nitrates and start adding coral frags, one at a time, with few weeks interval between additions, to allow bacteria accommodate to the increased bioload.
  
  
• You will learn corals requirements. LPS are the easiest, in my experience. Soft corals need established tank to thrive and not all of them looks good, many are invasive and too big. Sps need pristine water, stronger light, higher flow, testing for KH and Ca, dosing alkalinity and calcium supplements (ESV B-ionic for example). Do not use bright NPS (non-photosynthetic corals), they are expensive to keep, feeding and cleaning/changing water.
  
  
• You have to feed tank, less for softies, target feeding for LPS. LPS pellets or even fish food with hight krill content will do. Frozen mysis and krill also could be used or frozen seafood for humans, but this pollutes water more than pellets.
  
  
• Problem starts if not all excess of food was removed and it is rotting somewhere, increasing phosphates in the tank, leading to a nuisance algae growth. This is a problem for the reef tank of any size. Finding the way to keep tank clean is a solution.
  
  
• Ways to deal with evaporations are shown in example setups.
  
  
• No fish in very small tanks, see example setups.
  
  This gives general idea about what you have to expect.

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77848-Whisper-Pump-40-Gallon/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973697&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+air+pump

http://www.amazon.com/Sleek-Airline-Tubing-25-Foot-Black/dp/B001D4XTUU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973746&sr=8-2&keywords=air+tubing

http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Distributor-Splitter-Diameter/dp/B00A0GOL6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973765&sr=8-1&keywords=air+tubing+splitter

http://www.amazon.com/1-inch-Mineral-Release-Aquarium-Airstone/dp/B00CQGXBJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418973776&sr=8-1&keywords=air+stone&pebp=1418973778694


All of those would combine to make one rig that could support up to 5 air stones.

The Pump pushes air through some of the tubing to the splitter, then the valves that are open (in this case 2) have air go through them and into more tubing. Then at the end of the tubing is the air stone that is in the tank and bubbles to provide oxygen for the fish.

something like this:
pump
sponge
air tube

Pump Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sNA3Bb6XD7XZS

Would this air pump be good? Uniclife Aquarium Air Pump 4 Watt 4-LPM 2 Outlets with Accessories, Adjustable Oxygen pump for 20-100 Gallon Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBXI7PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9hJBbA0X6KZS

Don't bother buying a hang on back or something fancier, for just snails buy an air pump and a sponge filter. Definitely fill the tank all the way, and you'll want to do water changes every few weeks (maybe 10%) once the filter is in. Do you have any idea what kind the snails are, if not would you provide a picture.

Someone down the thread suggested a bare bottom tank, and I would recommend the opposite. With sand many snails will burrow and forage for food and what not. Also if you get a filter going, then the poop won't settle so much and will also degrade. That way you shouldn't need to clean the bottom, just change a bit of water every once in a while

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640650&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+air+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=417Lgh1JmoL&ref=plSrch

And

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640748&sr=8-13&keywords=sponge+filter

Thanks a lot for the info, I'm gathering all I need to make a DIY system now. One last question hopefully (though I might pick your brain in PM's down the line) do you suggest going with one pump for each bucket or one for both? I'm deciding on which of these to get but I'm not sure which size I'd need since they're rated in how many gallons the "aquarium" holds instead of LPH, and depending on whether I go with one or two. Thoughts?

Yes. You are basically running a reservoir. Throw in hydroguard and keep it cold. Below 70.

Also you will need to recirculate the water to keep it mixed.

Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HjdiAb6WPFQNR

You will need airstone along with the air pump listed above.

Lastly. Keep it covered and in the dark.

The tomato cage is a good idea. I was thinking of doing a scrog, both are viable.

Are you saying that one of these isn't strong enough for the 5 gal buckets? (one stone in each bucket)

You mean like http://amzn.com/B0009YF4FI ?

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1524452550&sr=1-4&keywords=tetra+whisper+air+pump+10

I’d recommend the uniclife over the tetra whisper. It runs much quieter and is adjustable.

I have the 2.5 watt one

https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Aquarium-Adjustable-Single-Accessories/dp/B06XS1DCG6

I think the best option for visibility of flow would be air bubbles, as you suggested. Problem is, air will settle out of the system unless more is added.

Maybe an air pump and air stone for aquariums would work? You'd have a constant source of bubbles anyway.

You'd have to have a reservoir and install a vent of some kind for the air that's introduced to the system to escape but I would think it could be done.

I'm setting up a 10 gallon walstad tank and just added plants + water last night. I'm running this sponge filter with the whisper 10 gallon air compressor. Do you guys think this is going to be enough flow to keep my water clean?

The tank will hold 1 sparkling gourami, 4 venezuelan pygmy cory, and 8 chili rasbora, which like slower moving water.

I'm guessing I need another sponge filter or a stronger air compressor, but this is my first time using either so I honestly have no clue.

"normal" hydroponics has higher yields due to higher oxygenation of water. If that is your goal by a cheap air pump. This one would do the trick quite well for your bucket.

Might be able to find something cheaper at a local aquarium store. Aim for 4-5 LPM min.

The Whisper 40 is the quietest air pump I've tested with a sound meter.

I use a mix of soil and aeroponics. With aeroponics, I use 5 gallon buckets supported on thick, folded towels to keep the noise isolated from the floor. The water pump cycling (3 seconds on/90 seconds off) creates much more noise than an air pump.

Sorry, got my units wrong... Gph is what I was thinking. I have this one and it works well!

VIVOSUN Air Pump 950 GPH 32W 60L/min 6 Outlet Commercial Air Pump for Aquarium and Hydroponic Systems (32 W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDKRYC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tCxHAbN4MTBPN

I'm using this one. It's also loud, but I have it on a separate switch so that I only have to have air and exhaust running when I'm actually lasering. Works fairly well and it was recommended in another forum, which is why I got it.