Reddit mentions: The best arcade & table games

It's not that hard to do all by yourself if you're a bit handy. Here are some links to get you started:

Joystick and Button Kit. There are many on ebay, look for best price and type you want - be careful if you get buttons separate from encoders as they have different sized wire connectors. Also see the shipping time as many come from China and may take a month or more to get to you:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Zero-Delay-Arcade-Game-DIY-Kits-Black-LED-Button-Joystick-USB-Encoder-AC1473/232958201621

Raspberry Pi 3 B+:

https://www.amazon.com/RS-Components-Raspberry-Pi-Motherboard/dp/B07BFH96M3

You'll also need a raspberry pi power supply (micro usb), and microsd card (both easily found on Amazon).

There are a lot of monitor choices depending on what you're looking for. You can get an old LCD monitor for cheap but should check the viewing angles if you'd like to use it in portrait mode. If you go that route and the monitor is VGA you'll need a VGA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-CableCreation-Female-Converter-NoteBook/dp/B013G4C17G

The Raspberry Pi supports HDMI so any modern monitor would work without the converter.

Alternatively you can get a raw LCD panel by itself and drive it with a converter board:

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-HSD190MEN4-M170EN06-1280x1024-30Pins/dp/B06X9NJ2NR

though it's probably easiest to get an old or new monitor and take it apart or hide everything except the screen with a custom bezel.

In terms of speakers I like these Logitech Z213 2.1 speakers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Logitech-Z213-2-1-Speakers-for-PC-and-Mobile-Devices-980-000941/181060190908

They are cheap and have good enough sound for the old games and with the sub-woofer it actually sounds better than the old games did. They are amplified and can just plug into a power strip inside the case so no raw wiring to do. Also they have a wired volume control that you could mount somewhere convenient. Just be sure to buy from someone that will accept returns or that is shipping you new product instead of refurbished as I've gotten a couple bad ones.

I also like this power strip as it has enough outlets and USBs to drive everything including the Raspberry Pi:

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Charger-100-240V-Computer-Transformers/dp/B01JRXRTC2

For one of my builds I also bought USB extension cables and some USB LED lights to use behind the marquee. Using this approach the wiring for everything will be very straightforward. No special electrical stuff to deal with.

You may also want to add a coin door that you could even make work by connecting the coin mechanism to one of the inputs on the joystick controllers:

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Coin-Quarter-Acceptor-X-Arcade/dp/B005EN6SUY

Possible software to run:

https://retropie.org.uk/

http://blog.sheasilverman.com/pimame-raspberry-pi-os-download/

Also, there are other options that remove the need for software configuration and joystick calibration that you might want to look into if you're not very technical. Notably Jamma boards which are more ready to go:

https://retroactivearcade.ca/collections/jamma-game-boards

You'd use that rather than the Raspbery Pi and the joystick encoders but you'd still use the same joysticks and buttons. The wiring is a bit more complicated with a Jamma board than with those handy joystick encoders, but still pretty straightforward.

If you have any questions send them my way. I've done a few rebuilds, a brand new machine from scratch and am in the middle of another one from scratch.

It's very rewarding. I even bought a wide format printer so I could print my own graphics on adhesive vinyl and apply it to the cabinets instead of paint.

Also, poke around the net and you'll find PDF plans for your favorite old game cabinet which you can print out and piece together and use as a template to cut the sides of your cabinet. I don't know about you but I'm very nostalgic about the old cabinets, their unique shapes and the creative art from back then so I prefer having a specific machine than a generic one. But to each their own. :)

Good luck!

I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).

Hardware:

1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
   
2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
   
3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
   
4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
   
5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
   
6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
   
7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
   
8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
   
9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.
   
   Software:
   
   
10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
    
11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
    
12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
    
13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
    
14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
    
15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:
    
    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.
    
    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!
    
    Here's a video of my modded cab:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA

Okay, listen, /r/boardgames, we need to have a heart-to-heart. Every time this comes up you bitch and moan about how you'd loooove to try Crokinole but just can't briiiing yourself to pay so much for a fancy board.

And y'know what, I get it. I feel your pain. Crokinole is an awesome game. It's extremely intuitive yet difficult to master, frustrating yet exhilarating, timelessly fast and simple, good for families and competitive gamers alike, and compulsively replayable. It is one of the three board games I have ever gotten my ADD-yet-ruthlessly-practical mother to admit enjoying, and it is one of only two games that my frighteningly competitive wife will ask to play without any prompting and still love me after we are finished playing. But you don't have to drop 200 bucks on a schmancy board just to see if it's something you might like (even though you will like it).

Those dinky little multi-game boards that you can find on the internet and in your grandfather's attic and the local thrift store work just fine, and will give you hours and hours of perfectly good play, at a cost that's way less than what you'd pay for a greased-up carved-wood board.

And what's more, if you do like it (and you will), then you can always upgrade to the fancy board and give the old one to your four-year-old nephew or something, without any regrets. Which leads into my second point, which is that speaking of regrets, I know that you routinely spend 200 dollars and more on those big-box CMON games that you never have a chance to play, just for the privilege of seeing those crappy little injection-molded plastic bits languish forever poised for battle yet never satisfied on your top shelf.

You will play Crokinole. You will like Crokinole. When you pull Crokinole down off of the shelf, all of your friends will smile instead of cringing and girding their loins. Don't you need a game like that? You do. Search your feelings. You know it to be true. Come back to the light side. Nobody wants to play Malifaux with you. Buying Blood Rage will only make you happy for a moment, and that moment will slowly turn sour the longer you try to find someone to play with you. You will pass Crokinole on to your grandchildren someday.

How far along are you?

It's going to be a tight fit, since the Pac-Man cabinet comes down to the sides of the control panel, and it isn't as wide as some dedicated two-player games. One joystick with a six button setup will fit pretty easily, though.

The control panel is metal. If you don't mind drilling the holes yourself, you can get a replacement blank for about $25. You might be able to build something from MDF, but metal is going to fit better and look nicer. You can also get replacement vinyl overlays for the control panel when you're done to give it a clean look.

When I redid my Street Fighter III cabinet last year, I used this kit from Amazon. It has two bat joysticks and 14 buttons, in standard SF colors. If you'd rather keep the red ball-top joysticks for authenticity, I think they have a kit with them as well.

Pac-Man isn't a JAMMA cabinet, so you're going to need an adapter before you can put a Multicade board on it.

If you don't have a board for it yet, Pandora's Box is a pretty good JAMMA Multicade with about a thousand games on it.

Of course, if you decide to scrap the whole thing and build a new cabinet out of MDF that has all the bells and whistles you want, I'd be happy to pick your cabinet up and turn it back into a Pac-Man... :)

A table saw would be optimal but you can definitely make do with a jigsaw.

You can use a 2x4 or similar to cut a straight line with a jigsaw, a couple wood clamps would do well to hold it in place to keep your cuts true enough.

If you want the nice smooth plastic edging like on a professional machine, you'll want a router with a slot cutter and some T-Molding. Otherwise, sandpaper and some time can give a very nice finish.

The last machine I built was just sanded, primed, and painted black, we printed on some regular printer paper and then glued it to acrylic to make a nice marquee for the top, letting the paper diffuse the light.

Think about ventilation, we had 4 120mm computer fans on the back pulling air in, and slots in the top panel to let the heat out. Worked well to keep the aging Phenom II we used cool enough.

Really, on Monday?

I am pretty sure you will enjoy this one if you decide to drink alcohol. I gifted my friend this one and everyone thought it was the best birthday gift of the party.

You could also go for something like this Tic-Tac-Toe game.

Happy birthday dude!

EDIT: Dudette based on your username. Sorry! :P

We use dot us these Training Swords in my medieval combat class!

They also make a Shield

This steampunk flavored Cryptex Flash Drive might be appreciated! Useful and stylish in a similar vein to this Steampunk Watch
As for board games, I recommend Shadow Hunters, Splendor, and Coup

For tabletop games, you could get him A Nice Set of Color Coded Diece

When it comes to video games, this Retro Arcade Console Desk Toy could be a great work passtime with 200 games! Alternatively if you have a fridge or a metal workspace, Magnetic Tetris! for idle hands


Hope any of these help haha

Very cool tattoo! Not entering since the closest thing to a Super Hero item on my WL is Super Dungeon Explore but it's just there for me to remember it for a birthday/Christmas, much too expensive for RAOA :P Just wanted to add my admiration for the awesome tattoo! Fun contest!

I love Chuck! I couldn't think of anything related too much to your wishlist, but I played air hockey last night at the bowling alley with my friends and it was soo much fun. Maybe something like that or something that you can play with or without other people.

Dang girl

You putt with a plastic marble, but you drive/chip with a stryofoam ball. The styrofoam behaves way too erratic to putt well with.

My girlfriend got me the "new" version of this for my birthday: https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Golf-Gifts-Indoor-Single/dp/B01A9K2H2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501114322&sr=8-1&keywords=arnold+palmer+golf+game

It's actually pretty fun to play around with. Friends and I setup a hole or two when we watch football games.

I purchased a set of 2 pound springs and a set of 4 pound springs for the controls and installed one of each so I could directly compare them. Both are a massive upgrade over the factory springs making the joysticks feel far more substantial. Combined with an 8 way gate, special moves were easier to pull off consistently with both the 2 and 4 pound spring. One wasn’t really Bette than the other, but bother we’re better than the factory spring.

After playing with both I found that I liked the 4 pound spring slightly better. The 2 pound spring felt good but I’m concerned that it would get a little too loose as they break in. The 4 pound spring felt like the arcades I remember. The one down side to the 4 pound spring is that the cab itself would shift around more in the riser, which means I may now need to actually use the screws to lock it in place. I was hoping not to do that as I don’t want to put holes in the artwork but it’s a small price to pay for a more accurate arcade experience.

End result, you can’t go wrong with either the 2 pound or 4 pound spring. Combined with an 8 way gate its an inexpensive way to to make your MK2 cabinet feel much closer to the original arcade.

Edit: Adding links to purchase


2 pound
https://www.focusattack.com/2lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/

4 pound
https://www.focusattack.com/4lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/

ANWA GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor gate
https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B06VVG936T/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+way+gates&qid=1565655151&s=gateway&sr=8-6

This is the one that one suggested to me. I'll tell you about the project, but it doesn't really change anything. That valve needs to be opened and closed in increments under household water pressure (~55PSI). Also, if the control isn't fine enough, I can always restrict flow to the valve down to 1/8".

Okay, so the project is a water massage table. There will be a pump, pulling water from a reservoir tank and providing pressure to a showerhead. The valve in question will be between the pump and showerhead, and opening or closing it will increase or decrease the pressure on the showerhead. Any water that bypasses the showerhead via the valve will return to the reservoir tank. The tank will be filled with distilled water, treated with waterbed conditioner. It will spray onto the bottom of the sealed water-handling area (essentially a hollow box with a waterbed mattress for a bottom) from the inside. The water handling 'box' will be hinged like a tanning bed. You open it up, lie on the table, close it, and then you have a layer of waterbed material draped over you, with a pulsating massaging showerhead mounted on rails and moved by a stepper motor, pointed at your bac, and it gives you a water massage without you getting wet. You press an up or down button , and it adjusts the bypass valve, increasing or decreasing the pressure slightly. Or if the valve is already turned as far as it goes in either direction, the light will flash on the button when you press it. Possibly something audible, too, since you'll be relaxing and likely have your eyes closed.

There will be an immersion heater and DS18B20 temperature sensor in the reservoir tank so it keeps the water nice and warm, with up and down buttons to adjust the temperature the same as the pressure. The tank will, of course, be insulated as well.

A 16x2 RGB LCD screen will display information telling you what the system is doing--starting up, ready, running, heating up, cooling down--and if there's an error, etc.

It will have a start/stop button to begin/pause/resume the cycle, and another pair of up/down buttons to manually adjust the sprayer position while the cycle is paused.

The main power will all come from a 120V/20A solid state relay that gets its 12V to activate through an E-stop switch, so if you hit the E-stop, it kills power to everything. (Safety first!)

There will be a low-voltage box that contains the Arduino Mega 2560, with all the control buttons and LCD mounted on the cover, sitting right between where your hands rest while you're using the table.

Any component that carries 120VAC will be inside a liquid-tight high-voltage box--bus bars, relays, 120VAC adaptors, fuses, etc.

And the water handling area will have a plexiglass front with RGB color-cycling LEDs illuminating the interior and the spray mechanism and water spray and slowly fading in and out.

And it will cost me around $800 to build, and it will probably take me a year or 2, but I'll be learning, it will be exactly how I want it to be, and I'll save 5 figures. Pretty sure if will be worth more than what I have in it when I'm done, too.

A Mechanical Keyboard. A (relatively) cheap but extremely substantial and absolutely worth it to make everything from gaming to exam writing more fun. :) Oh and [this thing] (https://smile.amazon.com/Arcade-Machine-Handheld-Gaming-System-Built/dp/B00S4HI1NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485564891&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+arcade+machine).

Water Bottle

My Swim Suit (I tried to get one without any models in the picture)

beach towel

Floatie

Hat

Bag

My Fav Book

[Movie](https://www.amazon.ca/Baywatch-Blu-ray-DVD-Digital-HD/dp/B072LMWGCZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527757612&sr=8-1&keywords=baywatch (I didnt know if shows were allowed or i would have chose the show)

Treat machine

Outdoor Decor

DAD (This would be for the step dad. He tried one out at the mall a year or so back and loved it, he always asks me about it and how we can get it. hes a hard worker, hes a firefighter and he runs his own construction buisness on the side. One day it would be nice to buy him a crazy good computer and an oculus and let him have some fun.)

Murica

Thunder buddy

Games

CD

I always forget this

Pineapple does not belong on pizza imo

Gotta plant some Begonias The Girlfriend loves them!

Multiple games!

SHARK WEEK

I'd love to have a spinner too, but regrettably, the only way to go about this is to roll your own with real arcade parts, or a reasonable facsimile.

https://www.amazon.com/ThunderStick-Arcade-Spinner-for-Arcade1Up/dp/B07P5WJ7BC

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2/137-8884558-5695913?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07NKJ3SKH&pd_rd_r=27bd6228-7203-40d4-9224-57fa99e25505&pd_rd_w=3SKaV&pd_rd_wg=ziJcR&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=2CKKVSS7M2FJQ73TFWBT&psc=1&refRID=2CKKVSS7M2FJQ73TFWBT

That costs over sixty dollars, plus a wooden container and whatever buttons you'll need to complete the build. It's annoying, but the MacGyver'ed solutions I've attempted have been unsatisfactory at best.

It's probably going to be the same deal with a twin stick, but that may not cost as much. I imagine two arcade sticks, a few buttons, and an encoder (along with another box) would do the trick. Maybe disassemble an old arcade stick from Hori or MadCatz, take out most of the buttons and replace them with a second stick, and wire up the action buttons (triangle, cross, square, blue diamond, purple horseshoe, et al) to the second stick for best results.

Google Arcade Basketball

Example
https://www.amazon.com/Giantex-Indoor-Basketball-Game-Electronic/dp/B01LYQNF6G

Biggest improvement those of with Parkinson's can do is social exercise. So a full-size basketball court with friends as we take free throughs with friends to return the ball. I actually did that with part of Parkinson's class and had a blast, but we have limited times/holidays when the school gym was available for us (classes not in session). I had to admit it was fun. Lots of level appropriate physical activity for a 90 minutes session. I even made a few three-pointers!

I really got hooked on building something like this. I've some experience in woodworking, so that shouldn't be a problem, apart from being precise (any tips?). Since I'm from Denmark, I won't be able to use the US amazon, so I tried to find some of the parts on the UK Amazon + Gallando's website.

Will these parts work out:

Rods

Bearings

Men

And possibly, Handles

I'm not going for high-end/tournament build. I couldn't find any other bearings beside Tornado which were really expensive and Gallando's own, which weren't that cheap either.

What kind of surface are you using and is it working out well?

Thanks in regards!

Not sure what make the table is, but I also have 5/8 " diameter rods and a 1" thick wall. The first set of bearings I ordered had a bevel on the end, which would have required that I make one end of each hole larger on the outside to allow for the bevel. Image for reference <- Don't get these.

The second ones I ordered were the right diameter, but are only 1-sided and require screws for mounting and would look like crap from one side. Link for reference

I just want plain old double sided 5/8" bearings without a bevel. I thought it would be super easy to find these, but a year later I'm still looking.

I just built a mame cabinet from scratch and my friend it is awesome. I got these...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GBC075Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418445116&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

And interfaced it with...

http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

I used the ipac4 board usb and am using an old laptop with no graphics. I have an hdmi out to a 55" projection tv and it is awesome. No problem running games

Checkout the emulator mameuifx also the way to go is torrent files to get the games. I could give you more information if you wish and pictures of my setup just let me know

https://www.amazon.com/Suzo-Happ-Ultimate-Joystick-Switches/dp/B0090838JS/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=happ+sticks&qid=1556574594&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell

​

Suzo branded sticks, free shipping.

​

I've actually purchased quite a lot through Ali-Express and haven't really had much bad luck yet. The 2 sanwas I ordered were name brand. And as they had free shipping as well, it was about $10 cheaper for a pair than amazon. I was willing to wait.

I started a DIY electronic project where I moved this https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Machine-Handheld-Gaming-System-electronic/dp/B00S4HI1NY into an altoids tin. The ribbon cable was very brittle and snapped, so now I want to make it a plug and play. I'm wondering if anyone can figure out if I can, or how to attach AV cables to the board so it can be hooped up to a TV, or if that is even a wise idea. Thank you for helping, I don't know much yet but I hope to learn more soon.

(PS I'm aware that most of the games on that aren't good, and it probably isn't worth the trouble, but I want to do a project and this was cheap, and offered learning experience.)

You need this so you can be that cool fun guy at the party.

here or this

I was at my local hockey shop and this was 40% off. I asked the owner if it was on sale because of a defect and he said, "Nope, it's brand new in the box, kids today are too busy playing hockey on their Playstations and don't want it. I bought it for my six-year-old son and he loves it. He does play NHL14 as well, but he likes this better I think.

I'd rather have pacman on a tabletop machine. For pizza.

And it's cheaper.

Edit: On reading the reviews, that particular item seems like it's fragile. But tabletop pacman is the best.

Four zero-delay usb encoders.

A 4:3 1280x960 LCD controller board

It's got stereo speakers which I intend to use, changing that is personal preference.

I'm in the process of modding my Marvel cab, waiting for the LCD controller to get here from China. 9 days till the lower limit of the ship time...

I've tested the zero-delay encoders with a Hori Hayabusa joystick and Hori Hayabusa buttons I pulled out of my fightstick when I replaced them with a Sanwa stick and Paradise Cherry MX switch buttons. Once all the parts are in I'll be posting my build when it's set up.

Better price plus prime shipping. Thanks again!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06VVG936T/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/

Thanks for the link! It isn't showing up here but I grabbed it from your comment history. Thank you!

I really like Super Dungeon Explore but it runs around $80.00.

Here are some tutorials about the game and even some game play.

More information

Cokinole was what sent me on my research into dexterity games. The price point is a factor though as I've seen most boards start at $150.

I did come across this on Amazon though. While it's not a dedicated and proper Crokinole board, it seems to be a great entry level one to test the waters.

if you want to get a good one, get a stiga. $100 but, worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hockey-Table-Detroit-Toronto/dp/B0000YQVFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482851166&sr=8-1&keywords=stiga+nhl+hockey

Yeah they are going to be a constant item being sold, they just keep selling out really fast. They've been selling them on Amazon in batches of 500 and they're selling out in an hour or two so just keep checking.

​

Spinner:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC

​

Interface Board for 12-in-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/?coliid=I2COG8BI2O4M9I

Because who doesn't want to play [darts] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VZV7VC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_79_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H3VY9WTM8SDMQVZP2YF7) while drunk?!
AND THEN GET MORE DRUNK EVERY TIME YOU MISS? It's perfect! :D

Also, happy 21st! <3

Desktop bowling?

May edit to add some more...

Edit: Labyrinth seems puzzling.

How about a Mini Retro Arcade Machine?

If you're made of money, a Spinning Globe! These things are so freaking cool.

You can never go wrong with a little "Trash-it-ball" Ah? Ahh?

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00003G4JR/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That's pretty sick. Like this?

I had one when I was a kid and we used to play it all the time. The only time I ever see them any more is in antique stores, but you can get a new one from Amazon that's very inexpensive:

http://www.amazon.com/Carrom-2850XXXX-Game-Board-Large/dp/B00003G4JR

Ah, yeah I was looking at this one when I was thinking of doing a similar project: https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Coin-Quarter-Acceptor-X-Arcade/dp/B005EN6SUY/

I am go as far to say 90% of the chance that Reyann Easy board is faulty. I had 2 of those before, 2nd one as the replacement of the first. These boards break pretty easy in general but that brand is BAD. If you got it from Amy-Happy-Mall do youself a favor and return it.

​

I bought myself a pair, 1 for backup in case the first one fries - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKN59L9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased a converter board from Amazon. You can hook up to 3 spinners/trackballs to this board.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a table arcade Galaga/Ms. Pacman.

Available on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Pac-Man-Classic-Cocktail-19-Inch-Monitor/dp/B000CMFMTK

The stock "V2" A1U spinner isn't compatible with the interface board (won't output via it's usb port) according to the interface board amazon page:
https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ThunderStick&qid=1563344608&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Whats the best way to make the cut into MDF to inset a T-molding (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Foot-Smooth-Black-T-Molding-Arcade/dp/B00KWBL8JY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501798927&sr=8-3&keywords=t+molding). It's for an ardcade cabinet, and unfortunately I do not have a router. Thanks!

You can use Glen's 2-in-1 Interface board if it's the same connector as the V1.

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH

you mean this:

https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B06VVG936T

This seems to be the USB interface you're looking for:

http://www.ultimarc.com/rotary.html

It is designed for use with this, I believe:

https://www.amazon.com/Happ-Red-Ultimate-Joystick-Switches/dp/B0090838JS

Carrom

http://www.amazon.com/Carrom-2850XXXX-Game-Board-Large/dp/B00003G4JR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00003G4JR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_O-eTDbW0M4DYC

Carrom

It's a carrom board.

Carom/Crokinole

It is a Carrom Game Board, which is actually multiple games.

Over 100

https://www.amazon.com/Carrom-2850XXXX-Game-Board-Large/dp/B00003G4JR

THe 12 in 1 addon board for the GRS spinner would work - You plug in the trackball/spinner and it converts it to be used as a USB device for PC/RPI ( https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GQ3C5NHMD4359VXSC8JN)

Here is the desktop version of your link

I realize it is not Top Corner Hockey, but they still make basically the same thing.

Forgive me for repeating anything you may already know.

For the buttons and joystick, you need a USB encoder. This or similar:

https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Encoder-Controller-Joystick/dp/B01L8K21CK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=arcade+usb+encoder&qid=1574973074&sr=8-5

Connect the buttons and joystick to the encoder, connect the encoder to the pi through USB. When you set up retropie, you will be prompted to assign each button for the pi interface.

For the GRS spinner and trackball, you will also need the GRS "12-in1 board".

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=grs+12-in-1&qid=1574973218&sr=8-2

The GRS spinner and trackball are both designed to plug directly into the stock Arcade1Up hardware. There is no USB connection on those devices. The 12-in-1 board gives you that USB connection. Plug the Spinner into the "P1" port on the 12-in-1 board. Plug the Trackball into the "P2 port". Use the micro USB port on the board to connect to a USB port on the pi.

The pi will recognize the spinner and trackball as a mouse - both devices will be interpreted as the same mouse input. But, that should already be set up to control left/right/up/down movements in any emulator. (Left/right only for the spinner, of course). So, you can jump right into centipede, or tempest or whatever you're using them for.

You may need to adjust the sensitivity of the trackball and/or spinner in each game individually until you get the right performance. There are threads about that on this sub. Here's one:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Arcade1Up/comments/cj1m4b/share_your_trackball_speed_settings_in_retropie/

In that thread, you can ignore where it says to change the speed. As is clarified later in the thread, the speed settings don't matter - only sensitivity.