Reddit mentions: The best automotive oil pumps & parts

Would something like this 6.0 Blue Spring Kit Upgrade be worth looking into to maintain high oil pressure? Is there more to it than just buying and installing the kit?

Are replacing the top seal, the location of the ICP & IPR sensors, and replacement of the HPOP all related or are those three unrelated statements? Sorry, I'm pretty ignorant, but I hope to become less ignorant eventually. Are these things I can accomplish in my driveway without access to a lift or crane? Thanks!

I've done this a few times. Based on about 10 different cars I've been through, here's what I do.

1. Change all fluids. All of them. Engine, trans, rear diff to start for now.
   
2. Install a new battery.
   
3. Change out all coolant hoses and the thermostat. This will also be when you change the coolant.
   
4. Drop the gas tank and check for rust. Remove and dispose of the fuel. Also check the fuel pump and fuel level float. They've likely deteriorated. As in, I've had to replace them every time. Check all the fuel lines, from beginning to end. Replace anything that looks even remotely wrong.
   
5. With the gas tank back in, put a gallon of new gas in. Then turn the ignition, BUT DON'T TRY TO START OR TURN THE ENGINE OVER. Just pressurize the fuel lines. Then have you and a buddy check the fuel lines again. Check for any leaks, even a drop. Turn the ignition off. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine and plumb it to a clear fuel line hooked to a gas can. Turn the ignition on and pump fuel through the lines until it comes out clear. Change the fuel filter.
   
6. Get a new set of plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Pull all the plugs and add some kind of oil to the top of each cylinder. Turn the engine over a few times BY HAND using a ratchet. Change out all the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor now. Also, replace all the belts.
   
7. Disable the coil or the fuel pump. Go ahead and crank the engine using the starter for at least 30 seconds up to 60 seconds. Make sure that you verify that you get oil pressure during this.
   
8. Re-enable the coil or fuel pump and try to start it. It'll likely be very hard, but it will get going. Let it idle and don't rev the engine at all for at least a few minutes until the oil has gotten everywhere in the engine. Run it, DON'T DRIVE IT, until it gets hot. KEEP A VERY CLOSE EYE ON THE TEMPERATURE, OIL PRESSURE, AND CONSTANTLY CHECK FOR FUEL LEAKS. HAVE AN ABC RATED FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY. If anything seems slightly wrong, shut it down and check it.
   
9. Brakes. Oh brakes. You're probably going to have to replace every caliper in it. The pistons are very likely stuck. Also check all rubber lines. Replace the brake fluid as you replace the pistons.
   
10. Tires. Tires degrade no matter how they look or how they're stored. Replace them before you even think of driving it. Good looking old tires is how Paul Walker got killed.. 10 years is the max age of a tire you should trust your life with. Best bet is to keep them under 7 years old.
    
11. Now you're ready to get it on the road. Stay close to home as something's probably going to break. You're going to have rotted gaskets, so expect to have to change quite a few as you deal with oil leaks.
    
12. The rubber's likely gone. Expect that weatherstripping, body / engine mounts, vacuum hoses, and suspension parts are going to wear out quickly.
    
13. Your first oil change should be within 500 miles.
    
    And that's pretty much how it goes. You'll likely have parts fail pretty quickly, so no road trips for some time. Keep a very close eye on your water pump and the cooling system in general.
    
    EDIT: Thanks for the gold. I'm glad this list can help some people out. Also, if you can, this tool can be used to prime the oil in the block instead of the starter. The oil pump on GM V motors is driven by the distro, which is driven by the cam. You pop the distributor out, drop that tool into the hole and make sure it connects to the oil pump, then use a drill to get oil pressure up. That would be a good way to keep from messing things up as in 15 years the oil has completely drained from the piston walls and bearings.

Thanks! Is this the correct spec tool?
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27062-Ford-Inch-Primer/dp/B0049OE8ZG/ref=asc_df_B0049OE8ZG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312844081654&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4152122611240655687&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033458&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-421535660130&psc=1

it will make it easier and they are cheap to get one you screw onto the top of the gallon and quart bottle most major parts stores will have it

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1139-Gallon-Design/dp/B00329VL3G/ref=pd_sbs_263_17?ie=UTF8&refRID=G4N9ZZY25DKMYXZ203TV&th=1

could be it leaked out fast and you have been driving like this for a very long time so could of dried up underneath could also be a bad pump not slinging the ATF around

Lots of good stuff already said. Any gas in the tank (or the rest of the system) is likely bad. There's a drain plug on the tank but that's usually stuck. You'll have to figure out how to drain that.

Check all your belts and hoses, rubber don't like to sit.

I believe there's a way to manually circulate oil via the pump so you don't have to crank, but you'll need this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Pump-Primer-Tools-FORD-Engine/dp/B00ASAQAH4