Reddit mentions: The best automotive engine valves & parts

I have been working on this over the past 2 years. This will be my 4th HvZ game using this rig. We normally have a game in the fall and then in the spring. I got the idea when the magstrike saved my bacon and I wanted to fix the small bladder issue. The speed of them was awesome but pumping it every time was a pain. I looked up some other mods and didn't see anything I liked. I decided I didn't want to the noise of an air compressor so I went with a large backpack mounted tank.

The magstrikes don't fire much stronger than a stock one. I shot them with a stock magstrike and matched them pretty close. Since basically its just a magstrike with a huge bladder, there wasn't much argument against it. I had the mods come personally over to check it out before hand. The fact that I continue to improve on it and make sure it's safe has earned me respect and I even have people referred to me for help to keep them within reasonable limits.

I've worked up a master part list for you with links of where to get most of it too:

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Parts List

• 2 Magstrikes x $20 = $40
  
• Screws and Misc Parts = $20+
  
• Elastic = $2
  
• 8 Magstrike Mags = $32
  
• 3 Magstrike Mags = (received in a trade)
  
• 100 Whistler Darts = $15
  
  Subtotal: $109
  
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  Clothing/Storage
  
  
• Carrier Vest - $17
  
• SAW Ammo Pouches x3 - $24
  
• M4 Magazine Pouch (fits the power bank) - $3
  
• Bike Tool Bag - $9
  
  Subtotal: $53
  
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  Air Tank Parts - All fittings are 1/4" NPT
  
  
• Viair 1 Gallon Air Tank - $40
  
• Safety Release Valve - $7.37
  
• 1/4" Schrader Valve - $4.85
  
• Pressure Gauge - $5
  
• Viair Braided Air Hose - $13.80
  
• Elbow Pieces x3 = $12.51
  
• Regulator - $21
  
• Ball Port Valve - $8.50
  
• 45 Degree Elbow - $5.57
  
• 10Ft of Tubing - $2.40
  
• Nylon Push-to-Connect Adapter - $3.07
  
• Push-to-Connect Adapter x2 = $5
  
• Wye Adapter - $4.65
  
• Threaded 1/4" Push-To-Connect - $4.70
  
• Quick Disconnect Adapter - $5
  
• Baby carrier (Pawn Shop) - $15
  
  Subtotal: $158.45
  
  ---
  
  Lighting
  
  
• 226 Lumen Maglight - $25
  
• Wide Angle Lens (for bike light) - $5
  
• 1200 Lumen Bike Light - $20
  
• 10000 mAh USB Power Bank - $33
  
  Subtotal: $83
  
  ---
  
  Tools
  
  
• Air Compressor - $60 (Got a deal on it)
  
  Subtotal: $60
  
  ---
  
  Unknown Prices/Misc Pieces
  
  
• Wood
  
• Brackets
  
• Screws
  
• Foam
  
• Epoxy Putty
  
  Estimated Subtotal: $10
  
  ----
  
  Grand Total: $473.45
  
  This includes all the parts currently being used in the mod. It doesn't count the two magstrikes I broke/parted out from experiments, other gun parts, extra fittings and all my tools I purchased to build the stuff. Most of this was broken up into small purchases over the past 2 years. $5 fitting here. $50 order there. I also purchased mostly things I could use outside of just HvZ like the bike light, ammo pouches, etc so it's not all wasted on nerf stuff.

1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
   https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
   
   
2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
   https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
   
   
3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Here's the shim kit
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
   
   
4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
   Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
   
   
5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.
   
   
6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
   
   
7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams
   
   
8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere
   
   
9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.
   
   
10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.
    
    Edit
    
    
11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.

Thank you good sir ! Found on Amazon !
Thanks to you .
https://www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Control-Solenoid-LINCOLN-Solenoids/dp/B01MTRAY12

I would do both sides, yes. That way they are both done, and you don't have to worry about either of them.

Technically anywhere in the window is okay, but I would try to get them as close as possible to each other, and to the middle of the spec (0.15mm). The shim diameter for the DRZ is 9.48mm. So if you decide to get aftermarket shims, like Hotcams or Wiseco, that is the diameter you want.

That said, aftermarket shims typically only come in sizes of 0.05mm, whereas I think OEM Suzuki are 0.03mm. So you could get an aftermarket 1.85mm, OEM suzuki might be 1.86mm or something.

I bought a hotcams shim kit because where I live there are no motorcycle shops nearby that stock these shims and I am impatient, lol. So now when I do my next valve check, if I need to change, I can do it immediately. Overkill, because i'll probably never use half the shims in it.

Here is a 5pk of the 9.48mm/1.85mm Hotcam shims on Amazon.

You'll see that the part # is 5PK948185, because it is a 5 pack of 9.48mm x 1.85mm shims. So if you needed say, 2.70mm shims for your other intake just search for 5PK948270, even on google it will bring up a lot of places that sell them, so there might be a place nearby.

That hilarious and I never heard of this. They sound awful and I can't believe people pay money for this.

Did some digging at work today, found out I can order these. Would these work with stock rods and cam? https://www.amazon.com/Competition-Cams-822-16-Hydraulic-Chrysler/dp/B000CIOCKE#

Could I pair them with these? https://www.amazon.com/Cams-26918-16-Beehive-1-075-Spring/dp/B000CIUBIQ

I can get both for less than. $300

Still trying to find new rods.

Being a percussion instrument, I imagine stuff would need to be glued on, otherwise it'd just vibrate off.

Could you use car valve cover quick release handle things?

https://www.amazon.com/Muscle-Silver-Anodized-Aluminum-Valve/dp/B01AVNXU1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495634737&sr=8-1&keywords=car+valve+cover+T+bar

edit: What about this? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2332179

Fuck anything designed to work with presta. It just makes it over-complicated and shitty, IMO.

My 'pro tip': All presta adapters are the same damned thing. These work great and are stupid cheap.

Then just use a half-decent car tire gauge.