Reddit mentions: The best ball valves
We found 63 Reddit comments discussing the best ball valves. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 48 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Weldless 316 Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Bulkhead and 1/2 Inch Nipple
- 316 Stainless Steel Ball Valve
- 304 Stainless Steel Nipple and Bulkhead
- 2 High Temp Silicone Orings
- Easy to Install
- 1/2" Inch Barbed Outlet
Features:
Specs:
Color | Stainless |
2. DuraChoice 1/4" Stainless Steel (316) Mini Ball Valve - Female by Female NPT
Specs:
Color | Stainless-Steel |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Size | 0.25 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
3. BACOENG 3/4" 110V/220V NC Motorized Ball Valve, NO/NC 2/3 Way Brass/SS 1/2"-1" Available
1.Valve Body: 2 Way FNPT 3/4" DN20 Stainless Steel. Orifice Size: 20mm, Full Bore2.Actuator: AC110-230V Normally Closed CR202 Two Wires Control (Spring Return When Power Off)3.Lead Free, Safe for Drink Water and Food. US Plug With Indicator. Metal Gears Inside4.Limit Switches Inside, Cut Off Pow...
Specs:
Size | 3/4" Stainless Steel |
4. Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack)
- Compact ball valves feature full flow for charging and recovery
- UL recognized to 4000 psi (276 bar) minimum burst
- 800 psi (55 bar) maximum working pressure
- 3 pack
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 3 |
5. Dixon FBVG200 Brass Ball Valve, 2" NPT Female
Global ball valve with full portMade of forged brassFor water and air onlyMaximum temperature 248 degree F (120 degree C)Maximum 600 psi pressure
Specs:
Weight | 3.45 Pounds |
Size | 2 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
6. Wholey Equal Straight OD Tube Ball Valve Quick Connect Fitting 1/4" RO Water System, Set of 5
Easy to use,Handy toolNo tools required,Push fit fittingsPush In to Connect Water Tube FittingStandard fitting for water filter systems using 6mm water filter tubingMini quick connect push
Specs:
Color | (set of 5) |
Height | 1.18 Inches |
Length | 1.18 Inches |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 0.39 Inches |
Number of items | 5 |
7. Motorized Ball Valve- 1" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid
- SAFE AND RELIABLE- Made of SS304 steel, with NSF certification, this ball valve is safe for drinking water; Lifespan is 80,000-100,000 cycles.
- NPT THREADING-1” Stainless steel threading, manufactured and measured according to National Pipe Thread standards; This electrical ball valve is full port, meaning the bore in the ball is a full1”; This minimizes pressure loss through the valve; Perfect for home automation projects
- 9V-24V AC/DC- Works effectively over entire voltage range; Will open or close valve in 3-5 seconds; Limit switch minimizes power after valve is fully open; Ideal for projects where an automatic return is necessary
- 2 WIRE AUTOMATIC RETURN SETUP- Simple two wire connection, valve largely de-energizes after opening; Returns to fully closed if power is removed
- ALTERNATIVE TO SOLENOID VALVES- Automatically cuts off power once fully open or fully closed; This reduces likelihood of overheating, making it a great alternative to solenoid valves for projects where a valve needs to be open for an extended period of time
Features:
Specs:
Color | Steel |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Size | 1 Inch |
8. Motorized Ball Valve- 1" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V DC and 2 Wire Reverse Polarity by U.S. Solid
RELIABLE AND SAFE- Most metal components of this ball valve are made of SS304 stainless steel; With NSF certification This valve is even safe for drinking water; With an expected life of 800,000 to 100,000 cycles, this valve will be a mainstay in your home.NPT THREADING-1” thread, manufactured and...
Specs:
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Size | 1 Inch |
9. Eagle Brewing Wl301 Stainless Weldless Ball Valve
Weldless Ball Valve1/2" Female Thread on the inside1/2" BarbMade of 304 type stainless steel
Specs:
Height | 1.2 Inches |
Weight | 0.55 Pounds |
Width | 5.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
10. Hydro Flow 747058 Premium Barbed Ball Valve, 1/2-Inch
Brand Name: Hydro FlowThese Fittings Offer Strength And DurabilityHydro Flow Barbed Ball Valves Regulate Your Hydroponic Irrigation Systems With A Simple Turn Of The KnobNo Assembly Required
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Width | 2 Inches |
Size | 1/2 Inch |
11. American Valve M88C 3/8" Gas Ball Valve, 3/8 Inch
- CSA certified for gas service (AGA and CGA standards)
- FIP threaded ends
- PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) Seats
- Quarter Turn
- Chrome Plated Ball
Features:
Specs:
Color | Brass |
Height | 1.7 Inches |
Length | 2.06 Inches |
Width | 0.87 Inches |
Size | 3/8 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
12. Kingston KMBVM Series Brass Mini Ball Valve, Lever, 1/4" NPT Male x NPT Female
- Chrome-plated brass for higher corrosion resistance than regular brass or steel
- Lever handle for on/off manual control
- Full port flow for higher operating efficiency than standard port
- Inline valve for connecting two pipes going in the same direction
- Female and male NPT threads for connecting male threaded pipe fittings to female threaded pipe fittings
Features:
Specs:
Size | 0.25 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
13. Motorized Ball Valve- 1" Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 3 Wire Setup by U.S. Solid
SAFE AND RELIABLE- Made of SS304 steel, with NSF certification, this ball valve is safe for drinking water; Lifespan is 80,000-100,000 cycles.NPT THREADING-1” Stainless steel threading, manufactured and measured according to National Pipe Thread standards; This electrical ball valve is full port, ...
Specs:
Color | Steel |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Size | 1 Inch |
14. BACOENG 1" DC12V Brass 2 Port Motorized Ball Valve,Electric Ball Valve CR02 NPT
1.Valve Body: 2 Way FNPT 1" DN25 Brass. Orifice Size: 20mm Actuator: DC12V CR02 3 Wires Control2.Regular watering the flowers, Timing humidification , Air compressor drain at regular time.3.Limit Switches Inside, Cut Off Power Automatically When F.O or F.C4.This motorized valve is a good replacement...
Specs:
Size | 1" Brass |
15. DERNORD Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT)
- Serviceable Valve - Can be taken apart via threads, Female NPT Ports
- Handle:Heavy duty handle with blue vinly insulation
- Body & Ball Type:304 Stainless Steel.Temp Range:-60 F to 450 F
- Nominal Working Pressure:1000 WOG:Max 1000 psi for Water, Oil, Gas.
- Fluid temp range: -20°f to 410°f
Features:
Specs:
Color | Steel/Blue |
Weight | 0.6 Pounds |
Size | 1/2" NPT |
16. WaterCop Classic, 1 in Lead Free Ball Valve, Actuator, 3 Sensors
JABS Provides only WaterCop equipment for Leak Prevention
Specs:
Height | 10 Inches |
Length | 16 Inches |
Width | 11 Inches |
17. Two Little Fishies ATL5450W Ball Valve for Regulating Water Flow, 5/8-Inch
- Two Little Fishies Ball Valve
- Barbed Aquatic Ball Valves for regulating water flow
- Used for devices such as canister filters, pump return lines, protein skimmers, calcium reactors, etc.
- Two Little Fishies Ball Valve
- Barbed Aquatic Ball Valves for regulating water flow
- Used for devices such as canister filters, pump return lines, protein skimmers, calcium reactors, etc.
- Used for devices such as canister filters, pump return lines, protein skimmers, calcium reactors, etc.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.02 Inches |
Length | 0.02 Inches |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 0.02 Inches |
Size | Fits five-eigths inch hose. |
Number of items | 1 |
18. QiiMii 1/8" Mini Ball Valve NPT FxM Thread with Stainless Handle SS304 PN63 (1/8 Inch)
1/8" NPT Female&Male threads for connecting to male threaded pipe fittingsSS304 body and ball for extra strength and corrosion resistanceSS304 Stainless Steel handles to increase service life, fast 1/4 turn open or closed operationTemperature range: -30°F to 350°FStandard port flow for smaller val...
Specs:
Size | 1/8 Inch |
Number of items | 1 |
19. Concord 1/2" 304 Full Stainless Steel Ball Valve Spigot w/Bulkhead Nipple and Barb
- 1/2" 304 Stainless Steel Bulk Head Fitting
- 1/2" 304 Stainless Steel Full Port Ball Valve
- 1/2" 304 Stainless Steel Nipple Fitting
- 1/2" 304 Stainless Steel Barb Hose
- Everything in this set is made from 304 Stainless Steel for maximum corrosion resistance
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.8 Pounds |
20. DERNORD Stainless Steel Mini Ball Valve NPT Thread (1/8" Female&Male)
- 1/8" NPT Female&Male threads for connecting to male threaded pipe fittings
- SUS304 body and ball for extra strength and corrosion resistance
- Inline valve for connecting two pipes going in the same direction with Double-seal system
- Heavy duty stainless handles to increase service life, fast 1/4 turn open or closed operation
- Standard port flow for smaller valve size, each valve individually tested for maximum safety about Water, Oil, and Gas(no freezing)
Features:
Specs:
Size | 1/8 Inch |
🎓 Reddit experts on ball valves
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where ball valves are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Are you using an NPT or triclamp style tube? If you're using NPT (national pipe thread, american pipes in inches basically) you can get a brass NPT ball valve, a reducer to put into the valve for a smaller thread size, and another brass piece, this time a 1/4" flared end for gas. You'll need teflon pipe threading tape to seal everything up and a vice grip or a couple of pipe wrenches to put the thing together. You can get all of this on amazon.
If you have a device like in picture with triclamp ends you'd already know where to get all of this crap but www.glaciertanks.com and www.brewershardware.com sell all the triclamp pieces you will ever need. Glacier Tanks is in oregon and supports the CLS extractor community directly by selling pre-fabbed terpinator style lids and collection pots, Brewers Hardware has a bunch of stuff they don't carry though as well. I've used both and they are awesome. Brewers Hardware also has lower prices on a lot of stuff like the spools you'll be using as extraction tubes, and they sell the national pipe thread to triclamp ends that I'm gonna need to modify my own old open blast tubes (my 1-2 and 3-5oz tubes depending on material and how tight it packs) into CLS parts. I have a calculator setup i've figured out though for how big of a tube can fit how much material for CLS use though. a 3"x18" spool fits about a half pound (bhogart sells a 3"x36" as their 1LB unit and it fits roughly that), so I figured out its volume from there and I can figure out how big of a tube will fit say 1oz, 2 ounces, and so on. you don't need perfectly filled tubes with CLS extractors either, you can fluff the top with coffee filters so the butane disperses evenly on the top, and typically in a shower style unit like the Bhogart, the top few inches don't get properly extracted anyways if you fill it all the way to the brim. I try to leave 2-3 inches at the top of the 36" column bare so it can just shower down and it seems to work really well, but with a narrower tube size you will probably be okay.
IF you got this far, you also are going to want a can cracker. You can use it on the top of the pipe in lieu of the brass hose hookup by screwing it directly to the top, but you need to make sure you get the right fittings for it. It looks like the crackers they sell all have the 1/4" flare end facing the wrong angle, so you'll probably need the hose after all. here's the cracker and a link to the right type of hose, as well as a link to one of the fitting types (though maybe not in the right NPT thread you need).
cracker: http://smile.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275663&sr=8-2&keywords=refrigerant+can+
PTFE lined chemical hose buying list. you want 1/4": http://smile.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275772&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+lined+hose
the style of brass end you need: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WTXICQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
brass coupler to put the end into:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMJCQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
something to put the brass coupler into to make it fit your valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00835RTY4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2" brass valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0081LIGIS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
ptfe tape: http://smile.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-TTB50-Temperature/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1421277137&sr=1-3&keywords=ptfe+tape
after reading around, you said your pipe was 2" so i modified the list with everything you'd need to modify a 2" pipe.
I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!
I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
Hey mahm0udin
I use the 5 gal version now, but I think the 10 Gal would be perfect for both methods because you get a healthy grain bed for filtering when brewing big or small.
You will want to install a Weldless ball valve with a Nipple on the inside of the mash tun.
You will also want one of these false bottoms and a piece of silicon pipe to join it to the internal ball valve nipple
Woo, that was a lot of links :) This is my setup and it works a treat :)
I wonder if he's looking for something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WWR1FRK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1#Ask
Reviews aren't great, but this seems like exactly what he wants:
> Motorized ball valves are a great alternative to solenoid valves when the valve needs to remain in position for an extended period of time. Solenoid valves will get hot, as they are constantly energized. Motorized ball valves are an enticing, energy efficient alternative. The valves consume energy during the actual opening and closing process, and only negligible amounts once fully opened, meaning it can be permanently connected without risk of overheating or burning out. Auto return valves, in particular, are a perfect fit for those looking for emergency backup systems. When power is removed, the valve automatically closes, which can be great in times of trouble. These valves are not intended for situations where fast action closing or opening is needed, as they do take a few seconds to fully open and close.
8gal should be plenty for a kettle. I bought my stainless steel kettle from AIH and I believe they start at 69 with 1 spout. You will need to buy the ball valve and barb fitting but those can be around $15-$20 on amazon. I have another kettle that s aluminum with a spout that was dirt cheap on amazon. They go on sale sometimes for $40ish for 8-10gal, I dont remember which.
The darkstar burner from northern brewer is $a reasonable $50. If you wanted to get something cheaper you would need to scour craigslist.
I am pretty new to brewing still but I stayed away from glass fermenters just because of all the horror photos I have seen on here and HBT. I have 3 plastic fermenters but I haven't yet had 2 going at the same time. If you are in NorCal I would gladly give donate one to you.
As for the rest of the smaller stuff, I would try and find a LHBS. Prices shouldn't vary that much from online. Or you could spring for a kit from nothern brewer that should come with everything.
I have yet to keg so no info on that, but I like bottling. It makes it easier to share with friends and is more portable.
Let me see if I can organize it into something reasonably understandable.
First up, the controller: https://i.redd.it/zmxxkfwqy9g31.jpg
Stuffed in that box are:
For the valves, I'm using a 1" Motorized Ball valve for the outlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9B4P45) and a 1/2" Motorized Ball valve for the inlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X99PHJJ)
Each of the relay modules control one of the ball valves. The valves are 2 wire, reverse polarity and operate on anywhere from 9 to 24v, so I just use battery voltage. In their normal closed position, both relays on the board are set to ground. When I want to open/close the valve, I switch the appropriate relay on the module to on (+12v).
The ultrasonic sensor is set at the top of the tank and measures the distance to the surface. It's not the cleanest of signals, but it will give a rough idea on where the water level is in relation to the top of the tank. You can then transform that into a rough percentage.
I use ESPHome on the NodeMCU, just for simplicity. The code is pretty long, but not very complicated. Just a bunch of different switches to abstract the base functionality into something cleaner for Home Assistant. I'll clean it up and put it in a github account or something like that and link it here later, likewise with the Home Assistant code that I use to run it.
I have been using the Fieldpiece probes connected with the measure quick app. The range on the FP probes is about 200 ft. I hear the gen 2 Testo probes have much better range as well. The app will give you complete diagnostic of the system and a really nice PDF printout of the job when you're done. A lot of customers love when you can say "this is what I see your system doing" and then you can show them live readings and how far off target their system.
As far as charging get one of these. https://www.trutechtools.com/CTEE14
Get some hoses with ball valves for charging and you're good to go.
I also use a pair of these for systems that don't have much space by the ports.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XgcvDbAAFS20P
​
This is how another guys does it for a visual.
https://youtu.be/TrW7xpGMdFo
You sya you don't have the tools to make the mash tun and brew pot. I assemlbe my mash tun, HLT, and brew pot with two 10inch adjustable wrenches, a standard dewalt drill, a carbonate cutting bit, a stepped cutting bit, and some cutting oil. If you have the drill everything else would cost around 50 bucks, then you also gain tools with your equipment. The hardest part is cutting holes in the pot for a thermometer.
Either way to make the Mashtun and MTL you would only need 2 10 inch adjustable wrenches.
Up to you, but here is some all grain kits you could look at:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/10-Gallon-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-With-False-Bottom-AND-Hot-Liquor-Tank_p_6699.html
https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Cooler-Stainless-Steel-Screen/dp/B013KJKAC0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068034&sr=8-9&keywords=10+gallon+mash+tun
You can make a 10 gallon mash tun for under 100 dollars:
10 Gallon cooler (~$50)
https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Gallon-Beverage-dispenser-Dispenser/dp/B000F6SHTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068151&sr=8-1&keywords=10+gallon+cooler
Ball Valve(~$15)
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Brewing-Wl301-Stainless-Weldless/dp/B00OC8DXPA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068175&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=wedless+ball+valve
Screen (~$8)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC/ref=pd_sim_468_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003ISY2DC&pd_rd_r=45GNPGH763R20241728C&pd_rd_w=MCZcu&pd_rd_wg=n4Wsv&psc=1&refRID=45GNPGH763R20241728C
1/2 female npt fitting(~$5)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Fitting-Coupling-Female/dp/B003GSKXUU/ref=pd_sim_328_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003GSKXUU&pd_rd_r=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ&pd_rd_w=h6v7j&pd_rd_wg=eclPX&psc=1&refRID=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ
Total: 78 dollars. You can buy 2 10 inches adjustable wrenches for 20 dollars (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-90-949-10-Inch-MaxSteel-Adjustable/dp/B000NIDIXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068379&sr=8-1&keywords=10+inch+adjustable+wrench)
so even having to buy tools its still under 100 dollars to make the Mash tun. The hot liquor tank will be the same price minus the screen, npt fitting, and tools. I personally made mine even cheaper buy using a 5 gallon htl instead of a 10 gallon and that will drop the price 25 more dollars. There is 0 drilling involved you simply unscrew the old plastic tap and put the weld ball valve in its place, it took me less than 10 min to make my new HTL on Monday.
Also, and this is really important to why I say build yourself, any mash tun you buy is going to be put together the same way it just matters whether you put it together or someone else does, either way the quality will be identical.
If you need a sparge arm for fly sparge you can make that out of pvc pipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-jgmgbwvg4
My two cents, even though you don't believe in you. I do, if you feel like saving money you can absolutely make all this stuff yourself and it doesn't require you be good at anything more than thinking like a logical person.
That pump I linked is plenty for your application. You can use an inline ball valve to control flow. Your "ring" setup idea should work fine. I use something just like that for my outdoor veggie garden.
btw, you can find a version of all this stuff at home depot in the automatic sprinkler parts section, BUT I do really like the floraflex 1/4" tubing. I don't know how it's different, but it's really "flexy" and easy to work with.
Just build up the system, then stick the ends of your drip rings (maybe disconnect the actual rings) and stick each end into a mason jar, turn on the pump, and time how long it takes to fill up a quart. That will tell you how long to run your pump. If the flow is too fast, use that ball valve to throttle it back.
Make sure your holes in the drip rings are plenty big, and check them often. They will tend to get clogged up over time (which is why I suggested a manifold with open 1/4" tubing to each plant)... but it should work fine.
Good luck, compression fitting threads (like what is used on that valve manifold) are not pipe threads. That is iron pipe threaded. If your going flex hose, its probably easier to use something like this in each line.... https://www.amazon.com/American-Valve-M88C-Threaded-8-Inch/dp/B0052EBW1K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484154166&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2F8+gas+valve
The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.
Option 1: Lower pressure for serving
Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.
Pros: No extra equipment required.
Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.
Option 2: Adjust beer line length
Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.
Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive
Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.
Option 3: Flow control
Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.
Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.
Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one
I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).
Edit: info/links
I ended up ordering this SS b/v. Seems like it should work with the correct nipples right? Also, how do you compress the actuator on the can tapper npt connection? Rip it out? Thanks for your help
Alright, The wood, nuts, bolts, screw, L brackets, plastic, plexi-glass, wire, air compressor, duct work reducer (to create funnel), and pail can all be bought at a hardware store outlet. (I had most of those all on hand)
Everything else
Pneumatic cylinder -crusher 25$
loading cylinder 30$
Solenoids 20$
6mm quick connect fittings 15$ you may need to order a converter or adapter to fit the crushing cylinder. I think its 1/4" fittings, so you could order those too but be sure to check
6mm Pneumatic hose 12$
6mm T splitter 6$
Air Pressure Regulator 10$ use to regulate the air to the loading piston as it runs at a lower psi/ can be slowed down some as well.
Shut off valve 6$
Quick connect to airline 6$ What you need may be different. Depending on your set up.
Arduino Uno 15$
12V Power supply 7$
12V to 9V 6$
158$ + construction materials that shouldn't cost more than 50$
Note: Some of this may be found else where for cheaper, but at least you know what you are looking for. Also I rounded everything up.
Let me know if this helps at all.
Edit: Its also helpful to have someone who can weld, so that cost has to be factored in as well. I traded work for work.
I just set up something similar to automate watering of some trees we just planted that are on a drip line hooked up to a spigot. I used one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fbXdBbJZ06AT0
Plugged into one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-dXdBb8ZM1Q55
Works great and no batteries. Ends up to be about the same price.
Edit: this is plumbed inside my house. Pretty sure neither of these products are rated for outdoor use.
You're answer was very thorough, thank you. I found out that motorized value works well. I've seen people on YouTube controlling the flow with it. But I have a problem, I don't know how to connect it to the Arduino and code it, there are no tutorials out there for that. Do you know by any chance how to connect the motor to the Arduino?
I found these two motorized ball valve, they seem to be good.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-Electrical-U-S-Solid/dp/B06XN5TZX7?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_5384200011&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/engineering-DC12V-SS304-Motorized-Electrical/dp/B00Y1ZENGM?th=1
This is videos I've found where they control the valve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-YLL6bov_4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPjN1YstjMk
I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.
CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36
HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q
MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8
Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0
HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Yeah. Like I said, since it's basically a "if any unit is OFF water is off" sort of thing, you can put them in series and have multiple, if you're that worried. The Water Cop is only $70, so 3 of them in a row is still half the price of the Fotrezz, looks like it'd be just as reliable, and definitely NOT less than a third as reliable...
Edit: There's a bunch of good reviews for it on Amazon if you look at the other models, which are almost identical, other than not being z-wave (which isn't going to be the source of failure, anyway): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZOOZPS/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00035HPE6/
Two Little Fishies ATL5450W Ball Valve for Regulating Water Flow, 5/8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025676E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FUw1xbCPEHV5Y
Get that valve in the appropriate size for the canister tubing the one you buy uses. Place it on the OUTPUT hose and now you can adjust the flow rate! The output part is important because you don't want to restrict flow into the filter and possibly burn it up because it's not pulling in enough water. Buy the higher GPH because it's better to have more then not enough. I use that with the Sunsun 303b in my 55gal. Also make sure you buy silicone grease and use it on all the fittings and the main seal ring on your canister!
I use an aeotec plug:
Aeotec Smart Switch 6, remote control smart plug, Z-Wave Plus, small size, side USB charging port, power metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VQISOCG/
With a ball valve like this:
BACOENG 3/4" 110V/220V NC Motorized Ball Valve, NO/NC 2/3 Way BRASS/SS 1/2"-1" Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/
Not sure on the cider and carbonation, but some insight on a small regulator.. I bought [this](ultimate co2 regulator works with 5 types of co2 tanks (0-25psi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZNP5BS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BEbCDbWE3WF68)
Along with [this](new qiimii mini ball valve npt fxm thread with stainless handle ss304 pn63 (1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTWF0B4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8FbCDbS8HF4PZ) ball valve (optional) so I can shut off the flow if I need. I also got a soda stream co2 cartridge from my local target. This is a great small co2 setup that I use for my mobile keg set-up.
You can get a spigot assembly
Inkbirds are great, also, free shipping on a freezer? crazy
Here are 3 1/8in. Ball valves, Male on one end, and female on the other. Easy to install under a air vent.
☆Red&White☆
Red-White Valve 5081AB Lead Free Mini Ball Valve, 1/8F x 1/8M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PM92ZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wuv3BbAF2SK32
◇Webstone◇
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-41685-1-8-FIP-x-MIP-Full-Port-Forged-Brass-Mini-Ball-Valve
♧Mini stainless one I found on amazon♧
Dernord Stainless Steel Mini Ball Valve NPT Thread (1/8" Female&Male) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VL9P95/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LGv3BbSNABCJH
I dont think the can tapper would function properly with that ball valve. I think you need one like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That adapter should work I think but I got this one and make sure you remove the internals that are not needed in our application and would reduce the flow of tane
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this is my can tapper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When you use a can tapper correctly the puncture point is at the bottom corner of the can so all of the butane can flow out as a liquid. Since the flow rate is increased the pressure inside the tube also increases and with my setup running two can tappers I increase the pressure even more.
What is you plan for a mash tun? I went with a 10g Home Depot cooler and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Weldless-Stainless-Bulkhead-Nipple/dp/B00JHMRH2Q
This is the cooler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-40-qt-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809
You’ll also need a screen or false bottom. I think the screen is a ver economical option https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC
> stainless steel 316 Tee
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----
>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----
>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG
>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper
Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaIDb22XPC3K
He’s talking about these. When I got my gauge set up I got theses with the built in valves.