Okay. I'll play. You CAN go "cheap". I breed the little fuckers by the hundreds. But essential is a subjective word in this discus world. Give me a minute and i'll post what I think is essential.

For me: The essentials are


1. THE WATER (keep it clean for discus if you want them to grow)

The water in the aquarium has to be initially ideal. For me, this means using RO water. Super soft which the fish love and less than 200 microsiemens on my EC/TDS meter. You can definitely go cheaper, but I own this to see how my RO is doing and to see the water hardness. Discus like less than 200 microsiemens from my experience.

Despite what most people will tell you about RO's, I've had pretty great experience with one I bought off of craigslist. The most important piece is the membrane, which you can always replace. I think I paid 45 for the 5 stage one I have and 30 for the membrane AFTER year of having it just because I wanted to changed it. I filled 2 of the 3 first stages with Catalytic activated carbon that I bought in bulk. I thought I'd need to replace it every 3-6 months with how often I do water changes, but its been trucking along about a year now with the initial fill. Again, you should check your own refuse water for chlorine periodically to make sure your membrane isn't getting damaged when your carbon does eventually get old and ineffective.

I have a big 30 gallon skinny trash can with the filtrate from the RO emptying into it through a float valve.. When the thing gets full the RO is shut off. You also want to think about getting a pump inside the trash can to send the cleaned water to the aquariums easily through a hose or something. The extra "waste" water is carbon filtered but not membrane filtered, so its very alkaline. I often will add some of this water back into the aquarium via gallon bucks if I think the alkalinity is off or the TDS is too low. I shoot for 150ish but never more than 200. Eggs get more fertilized if they are laided in low TDS water.


2.SUMP AND THE BIOFILTER (Its like the liver of your system)
Do not go with HOB or canister filters. Invariably you will forget to change the carbon or clean the canister and it will go to crap suddenly.
You could go with expensive acrylic wet/dry systems that are prebuilt, but my FAVORITE and never ever leaked or over filled sump has been a 25lbs dog food container I got from the container store. It fits perfectly under my aquarium in the cabinet. That is only good for holding your water though.

You still need a place for your bacteria to grow inside of this container. I used bioballs, but i've experimented with lava rocks and other more naturally available media. Bioballs are easiest to move around or clean. I put them inside of little baskets that I ziptied together. The top basket is filled with filter floss (the crap some pillows get stuffed with) to capture floating debris. They are relatively small to my trash can sump so that I could easily see the pump at the bottom of my sump or move them around. This setup with aerate your water. You can get an airpump for emergencies, but you don't really need it. On the other hand you might want to enclose it a little bit since water likes to evaporate.



3. WATER FLOW PUMP and VEINS

A good pump on the floor of my sump. I can't remember if I used the 4000 or the 5000. Either way that brand is pretty quiet and dependable IF YOU DON'T run the water level low in the sump or suddenly have a leak somewhere else. Its simple. Just pump the water from the sump into the aquarium. Try not to have any right angles so you don't slow the flow.

You have to read up on wet/dry filters to see if you want the learning curve headache of dealing with routing water flows. What you want essentially is a system where the water will drain out of the aquarium as fast or a little slower than it comes into the aquarium, but not so fast that you end up with a sucking sound in your drain pipe that will drive you mad.
OUT
My latest SUPER CHEAP "overflow" has been a series of PVC pipes shaped into U's fitted with an aqualifter pump. I got the instructions from here essentially while modifying it to fit my needs. These little pumps are cool because if I loose power or siphon in my overflow, they will pump out the air and keep on pumping water without breaking down. Very useful little discovery. Never again have I had to jump start my siphon do it manually. I put a strainer over the pvc pipe in the aquarium just to keep it from catching any fish. Just lead the water into floss to catch junk.

As to how much water flow, I've seen breeders with as low a 2 turn overs per hour to as high as 5 or 7. Just experiment with your setup.

EXTRAS
IF you change your water often and keep it out of strong light for a while the bacteria will adapt to eating organic waste. IF you don't want to do that or ever worry about it, you can get a UV sterilizer from ebay and also a nice set of lights. I buy mine from topdogsellers, BUT you should know that my UV sterilizer started leaking about 6 months in. I had to place it into that big sump I mentioned earlier to keep it from leaking on the floor. Still works like a champ despite its leak. Its submersible so whatevs.

I keep a bare aquarium spare the place to lay eggs because its easier to drain the aquarium that way of crap. You can go to homedepot and buy a 30 foot acrylic tube and fit a pvc pipe into it to suck up the bottom of the aquarium out into your yard or bath tub. I'm sure you will figure it out.

You might not NEED a water heater depending on where you live, but I highly recommend it. Discus are often imported and hence come from places with parasites. Water temperature can help kill quite a few of these while boosting fish growth and encouraging good immune responses. Salt ( IN LESS THAN 200 microsiemens) can also help. Eventually you will learn all about prazi and other meds like Clout. I recommend this water heater since it won't shatter if you make any sudden changes to water temperature which you should strive to never to but may at some point need to .

Food can be made from beef heart and if you can train your fish to accept it your pocket book will thank you. Water changes will be important if you go this route as it can messy up quite a bit. If you are filthy rich feed them blackworms from california. Look it up. They are clean of parasites and don't die and dirty up your water. Fish LOVE them.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Are you using an NPT or triclamp style tube? If you're using NPT (national pipe thread, american pipes in inches basically) you can get a brass NPT ball valve, a reducer to put into the valve for a smaller thread size, and another brass piece, this time a 1/4" flared end for gas. You'll need teflon pipe threading tape to seal everything up and a vice grip or a couple of pipe wrenches to put the thing together. You can get all of this on amazon.

If you have a device like in picture with triclamp ends you'd already know where to get all of this crap but www.glaciertanks.com and www.brewershardware.com sell all the triclamp pieces you will ever need. Glacier Tanks is in oregon and supports the CLS extractor community directly by selling pre-fabbed terpinator style lids and collection pots, Brewers Hardware has a bunch of stuff they don't carry though as well. I've used both and they are awesome. Brewers Hardware also has lower prices on a lot of stuff like the spools you'll be using as extraction tubes, and they sell the national pipe thread to triclamp ends that I'm gonna need to modify my own old open blast tubes (my 1-2 and 3-5oz tubes depending on material and how tight it packs) into CLS parts. I have a calculator setup i've figured out though for how big of a tube can fit how much material for CLS use though. a 3"x18" spool fits about a half pound (bhogart sells a 3"x36" as their 1LB unit and it fits roughly that), so I figured out its volume from there and I can figure out how big of a tube will fit say 1oz, 2 ounces, and so on. you don't need perfectly filled tubes with CLS extractors either, you can fluff the top with coffee filters so the butane disperses evenly on the top, and typically in a shower style unit like the Bhogart, the top few inches don't get properly extracted anyways if you fill it all the way to the brim. I try to leave 2-3 inches at the top of the 36" column bare so it can just shower down and it seems to work really well, but with a narrower tube size you will probably be okay.

IF you got this far, you also are going to want a can cracker. You can use it on the top of the pipe in lieu of the brass hose hookup by screwing it directly to the top, but you need to make sure you get the right fittings for it. It looks like the crackers they sell all have the 1/4" flare end facing the wrong angle, so you'll probably need the hose after all. here's the cracker and a link to the right type of hose, as well as a link to one of the fitting types (though maybe not in the right NPT thread you need).

cracker: http://smile.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275663&sr=8-2&keywords=refrigerant+can+

PTFE lined chemical hose buying list. you want 1/4": http://smile.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275772&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+lined+hose

the style of brass end you need: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WTXICQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

brass coupler to put the end into:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMJCQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

something to put the brass coupler into to make it fit your valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00835RTY4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2" brass valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0081LIGIS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

ptfe tape: http://smile.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-TTB50-Temperature/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1421277137&sr=1-3&keywords=ptfe+tape


after reading around, you said your pipe was 2" so i modified the list with everything you'd need to modify a 2" pipe.

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Hey mahm0udin

I use the 5 gal version now, but I think the 10 Gal would be perfect for both methods because you get a healthy grain bed for filtering when brewing big or small.

You will want to install a Weldless ball valve with a Nipple on the inside of the mash tun.

You will also want one of these false bottoms and a piece of silicon pipe to join it to the internal ball valve nipple

Woo, that was a lot of links :) This is my setup and it works a treat :)

I wonder if he's looking for something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WWR1FRK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1#Ask

Reviews aren't great, but this seems like exactly what he wants:

> Motorized ball valves are a great alternative to solenoid valves when the valve needs to remain in position for an extended period of time. Solenoid valves will get hot, as they are constantly energized. Motorized ball valves are an enticing, energy efficient alternative. The valves consume energy during the actual opening and closing process, and only negligible amounts once fully opened, meaning it can be permanently connected without risk of overheating or burning out. Auto return valves, in particular, are a perfect fit for those looking for emergency backup systems. When power is removed, the valve automatically closes, which can be great in times of trouble. These valves are not intended for situations where fast action closing or opening is needed, as they do take a few seconds to fully open and close.

I have been working on this over the past 2 years. This will be my 4th HvZ game using this rig. We normally have a game in the fall and then in the spring. I got the idea when the magstrike saved my bacon and I wanted to fix the small bladder issue. The speed of them was awesome but pumping it every time was a pain. I looked up some other mods and didn't see anything I liked. I decided I didn't want to the noise of an air compressor so I went with a large backpack mounted tank.

The magstrikes don't fire much stronger than a stock one. I shot them with a stock magstrike and matched them pretty close. Since basically its just a magstrike with a huge bladder, there wasn't much argument against it. I had the mods come personally over to check it out before hand. The fact that I continue to improve on it and make sure it's safe has earned me respect and I even have people referred to me for help to keep them within reasonable limits.

I've worked up a master part list for you with links of where to get most of it too:

---

Parts List

• 2 Magstrikes x $20 = $40
  
• Screws and Misc Parts = $20+
  
• Elastic = $2
  
• 8 Magstrike Mags = $32
  
• 3 Magstrike Mags = (received in a trade)
  
• 100 Whistler Darts = $15
  
  Subtotal: $109
  
  ---
  
  Clothing/Storage
  
  
• Carrier Vest - $17
  
• SAW Ammo Pouches x3 - $24
  
• M4 Magazine Pouch (fits the power bank) - $3
  
• Bike Tool Bag - $9
  
  Subtotal: $53
  
  ---
  
  Air Tank Parts - All fittings are 1/4" NPT
  
  
• Viair 1 Gallon Air Tank - $40
  
• Safety Release Valve - $7.37
  
• 1/4" Schrader Valve - $4.85
  
• Pressure Gauge - $5
  
• Viair Braided Air Hose - $13.80
  
• Elbow Pieces x3 = $12.51
  
• Regulator - $21
  
• Ball Port Valve - $8.50
  
• 45 Degree Elbow - $5.57
  
• 10Ft of Tubing - $2.40
  
• Nylon Push-to-Connect Adapter - $3.07
  
• Push-to-Connect Adapter x2 = $5
  
• Wye Adapter - $4.65
  
• Threaded 1/4" Push-To-Connect - $4.70
  
• Quick Disconnect Adapter - $5
  
• Baby carrier (Pawn Shop) - $15
  
  Subtotal: $158.45
  
  ---
  
  Lighting
  
  
• 226 Lumen Maglight - $25
  
• Wide Angle Lens (for bike light) - $5
  
• 1200 Lumen Bike Light - $20
  
• 10000 mAh USB Power Bank - $33
  
  Subtotal: $83
  
  ---
  
  Tools
  
  
• Air Compressor - $60 (Got a deal on it)
  
  Subtotal: $60
  
  ---
  
  Unknown Prices/Misc Pieces
  
  
• Wood
  
• Brackets
  
• Screws
  
• Foam
  
• Epoxy Putty
  
  Estimated Subtotal: $10
  
  ----
  
  Grand Total: $473.45
  
  This includes all the parts currently being used in the mod. It doesn't count the two magstrikes I broke/parted out from experiments, other gun parts, extra fittings and all my tools I purchased to build the stuff. Most of this was broken up into small purchases over the past 2 years. $5 fitting here. $50 order there. I also purchased mostly things I could use outside of just HvZ like the bike light, ammo pouches, etc so it's not all wasted on nerf stuff.

Most of it can be found on amazon:

- MJVO-3 3-Way Valve, Normally-Open, 1/8" NPT

-1/4'' OD tubing

-1/8'' NPT male and female connectors

-HPA tank with SLP regulator

-second stage regulator with at least a 300 maximum input psi (not on amazon, check paintball stores. Mine was second hand off ebay)

-paintball remote line quick disconnect (male and female)

-some good epoxy

-XBZ tank (ebay)

-1'' PVC end cap and 1'' inch PVC pipe for modifying your XBZ tank

-you'll also need a drill, dremel, and something to tighten down your NPT connectors

​

I also used COBBA Crazy's youtube channel a lot. He has a video breaking down how he made his LPA/HPA longstrike and it's super helpful and pretty straightforward.

8gal should be plenty for a kettle. I bought my stainless steel kettle from AIH and I believe they start at 69 with 1 spout. You will need to buy the ball valve and barb fitting but those can be around $15-$20 on amazon. I have another kettle that s aluminum with a spout that was dirt cheap on amazon. They go on sale sometimes for $40ish for 8-10gal, I dont remember which.

The darkstar burner from northern brewer is $a reasonable $50. If you wanted to get something cheaper you would need to scour craigslist.

I am pretty new to brewing still but I stayed away from glass fermenters just because of all the horror photos I have seen on here and HBT. I have 3 plastic fermenters but I haven't yet had 2 going at the same time. If you are in NorCal I would gladly give donate one to you.

As for the rest of the smaller stuff, I would try and find a LHBS. Prices shouldn't vary that much from online. Or you could spring for a kit from nothern brewer that should come with everything.

I have yet to keg so no info on that, but I like bottling. It makes it easier to share with friends and is more portable.

Thanks! That is the 1/2 HP pump I was looking at instead of the 3/4 HP one if I decided to go with a water powered backup solution. However, I think I may go with battery backup instead.

​

This Wayne WSS30V is 1/2 HP all-in-one combo with battery backup and also has an alarm built in. I think this is what I'm leaning towards at this point. I was also looking at that Mighty Max for the battery, or this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump if it's okay to use (let me know what you think).

​

I ordered one of these Zoeller PVC Plastic Check Valves. Do I need two on the combo unit, or is just one okay?

​

I have this Basement Watchdog Dual Float Sump Pump Switch with Controller on my current pump and was just going to transfer it over to the new one using the metal clamp it came with.

​

Any other suggestions or information is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all your help!

Let me see if I can organize it into something reasonably understandable.

First up, the controller: https://i.redd.it/zmxxkfwqy9g31.jpg

Stuffed in that box are:

• 1 HiLetGo ESP8266 NodeMCU
  
• 1 Analog voltage sensor
  
• 2 Double Relay control boards (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078478SZ9)
  
• 1 Voltage Regulator (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ0SC2C)
  
• 1 MPPT Solar Charge Controller (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PT7HBRF)
  
• 1 Waterproof Ultrasonic sensor module (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQCNXPP)
  
  For the valves, I'm using a 1" Motorized Ball valve for the outlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9B4P45) and a 1/2" Motorized Ball valve for the inlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X99PHJJ)
  
  Each of the relay modules control one of the ball valves. The valves are 2 wire, reverse polarity and operate on anywhere from 9 to 24v, so I just use battery voltage. In their normal closed position, both relays on the board are set to ground. When I want to open/close the valve, I switch the appropriate relay on the module to on (+12v).
  
  The ultrasonic sensor is set at the top of the tank and measures the distance to the surface. It's not the cleanest of signals, but it will give a rough idea on where the water level is in relation to the top of the tank. You can then transform that into a rough percentage.
  
  I use ESPHome on the NodeMCU, just for simplicity. The code is pretty long, but not very complicated. Just a bunch of different switches to abstract the base functionality into something cleaner for Home Assistant. I'll clean it up and put it in a github account or something like that and link it here later, likewise with the Home Assistant code that I use to run it.

I have been using the Fieldpiece probes connected with the measure quick app. The range on the FP probes is about 200 ft. I hear the gen 2 Testo probes have much better range as well. The app will give you complete diagnostic of the system and a really nice PDF printout of the job when you're done. A lot of customers love when you can say "this is what I see your system doing" and then you can show them live readings and how far off target their system.

As far as charging get one of these. https://www.trutechtools.com/CTEE14

Get some hoses with ball valves for charging and you're good to go.

I also use a pair of these for systems that don't have much space by the ports.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XgcvDbAAFS20P

​

This is how another guys does it for a visual.

https://youtu.be/TrW7xpGMdFo

It's actually super easy. Bought everything off amazon.

• ice line kit, attach to your water line under sink
  
  
• Solenoid Valve 1/4", splice 12v plug and into a timer or wifi timer.
  
  
• Attach water line inlet to tank
  
  
• Drill hole in tank or use overflow box for water outlet. I made my own
  
  
• Optional, get water filter if your water is chlorinated, check valve for safety, 1 gph drip emitter for better flow control.
  
  I'll make a full guide later

You sya you don't have the tools to make the mash tun and brew pot. I assemlbe my mash tun, HLT, and brew pot with two 10inch adjustable wrenches, a standard dewalt drill, a carbonate cutting bit, a stepped cutting bit, and some cutting oil. If you have the drill everything else would cost around 50 bucks, then you also gain tools with your equipment. The hardest part is cutting holes in the pot for a thermometer.

Either way to make the Mashtun and MTL you would only need 2 10 inch adjustable wrenches.

Up to you, but here is some all grain kits you could look at:

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/10-Gallon-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-With-False-Bottom-AND-Hot-Liquor-Tank_p_6699.html

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Cooler-Stainless-Steel-Screen/dp/B013KJKAC0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068034&sr=8-9&keywords=10+gallon+mash+tun

You can make a 10 gallon mash tun for under 100 dollars:

10 Gallon cooler (~$50)
https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Gallon-Beverage-dispenser-Dispenser/dp/B000F6SHTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068151&sr=8-1&keywords=10+gallon+cooler

Ball Valve(~$15)
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Brewing-Wl301-Stainless-Weldless/dp/B00OC8DXPA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068175&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=wedless+ball+valve

Screen (~$8)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC/ref=pd_sim_468_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003ISY2DC&pd_rd_r=45GNPGH763R20241728C&pd_rd_w=MCZcu&pd_rd_wg=n4Wsv&psc=1&refRID=45GNPGH763R20241728C

1/2 female npt fitting(~$5)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Fitting-Coupling-Female/dp/B003GSKXUU/ref=pd_sim_328_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003GSKXUU&pd_rd_r=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ&pd_rd_w=h6v7j&pd_rd_wg=eclPX&psc=1&refRID=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ

Total: 78 dollars. You can buy 2 10 inches adjustable wrenches for 20 dollars (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-90-949-10-Inch-MaxSteel-Adjustable/dp/B000NIDIXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068379&sr=8-1&keywords=10+inch+adjustable+wrench)

so even having to buy tools its still under 100 dollars to make the Mash tun. The hot liquor tank will be the same price minus the screen, npt fitting, and tools. I personally made mine even cheaper buy using a 5 gallon htl instead of a 10 gallon and that will drop the price 25 more dollars. There is 0 drilling involved you simply unscrew the old plastic tap and put the weld ball valve in its place, it took me less than 10 min to make my new HTL on Monday.

Also, and this is really important to why I say build yourself, any mash tun you buy is going to be put together the same way it just matters whether you put it together or someone else does, either way the quality will be identical.

If you need a sparge arm for fly sparge you can make that out of pvc pipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-jgmgbwvg4

My two cents, even though you don't believe in you. I do, if you feel like saving money you can absolutely make all this stuff yourself and it doesn't require you be good at anything more than thinking like a logical person.

That pump I linked is plenty for your application. You can use an inline ball valve to control flow. Your "ring" setup idea should work fine. I use something just like that for my outdoor veggie garden.

btw, you can find a version of all this stuff at home depot in the automatic sprinkler parts section, BUT I do really like the floraflex 1/4" tubing. I don't know how it's different, but it's really "flexy" and easy to work with.

Just build up the system, then stick the ends of your drip rings (maybe disconnect the actual rings) and stick each end into a mason jar, turn on the pump, and time how long it takes to fill up a quart. That will tell you how long to run your pump. If the flow is too fast, use that ball valve to throttle it back.

Make sure your holes in the drip rings are plenty big, and check them often. They will tend to get clogged up over time (which is why I suggested a manifold with open 1/4" tubing to each plant)... but it should work fine.

Wow Thanks for the descriptive response!


I'm not very great at electronics, but here is the exact switch I'm using.

As for power source, I'm probably going to use 110 VAC to power the 4 ch relay board. http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8

This is the solenoid I will be using


Thanks! Your post really helped me think it through. Just need to put it to work lol.

Good luck, compression fitting threads (like what is used on that valve manifold) are not pipe threads. That is iron pipe threaded. If your going flex hose, its probably easier to use something like this in each line.... https://www.amazon.com/American-Valve-M88C-Threaded-8-Inch/dp/B0052EBW1K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484154166&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2F8+gas+valve

> Since we are building a WWII Italian Flamethrower, it looks more like timebomb's with the "Wand" instead of the "gun" flamethrower if that makes sense

Very cool! I believe the normal terminology is 'lance' for the tubular style like Timebomb's, and 'wand' for the pistol-gripped style. Might help you with your research.

> Where do you find the push valve like that?

Item #6790T42 on McMaster-Carr, which is the same as this item on Amazon, is the one Timebomb used. You'll just need a short 1/8 NPT pipe nipple to thread it into the chamber, and a 1/8 push-to-connect hose fitting to connect your macroline.

> A spring-loaded follower to push the bbs, is this like what is in an airsoft magazine or what?

Check out my build album. The thing with the spring is a follower. I used a brass rod as a guide to make it a little easier to stuff into the gun, but strictly speaking all you need is a spring and a disk sized to fit inside the chamber.

Looks awesome. I set up an automatic daily water-changer in mine. I let it drain thru a hose-timer connected near the bottom thru a standard garden hose for 2 hours, and I keep a float valve on a second hose-timer to fill it back up.

​

tl;dr

hose timer (1 to drain and 1 to fill): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M676JAS/

float valve: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I

you'll need 2 hoses as well. the timer on the drain end gets clogged sometimes but thats the best i could come up with so far

Funny this comes out the day all the parts for my spund build arrive. Good stuff! Got the parts in question from the chi company, valve and gauge off amazon.

spunding valve

1/4” NPT male x 1/4” JIC female

Nylon Flare Fitting Washers (1/4”)

Stainless Tee 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/4” NPT

Quick Disconnect - gas MFL

Pressure Relief Valve Adjustable Pressure 0-100psi 1/4” NPT

Pressure Gauge 60psi 1/4” NPT

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

I ended up ordering this SS b/v. Seems like it should work with the correct nipples right? Also, how do you compress the actuator on the can tapper npt connection? Rip it out? Thanks for your help

I just set up something similar to automate watering of some trees we just planted that are on a drip line hooked up to a spigot. I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fbXdBbJZ06AT0

Plugged into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-dXdBb8ZM1Q55

Works great and no batteries. Ends up to be about the same price.

Edit: this is plumbed inside my house. Pretty sure neither of these products are rated for outdoor use.

Super easy, need just a screwdriver to remove the old one. Its the thing mounted a bit higher in the PVC pipe. Get one that matches the size of the pipe. Here is one as an example.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

I use an aeotec plug:
Aeotec Smart Switch 6, remote control smart plug, Z-Wave Plus, small size, side USB charging port, power metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VQISOCG/


With a ball valve like this:
BACOENG 3/4" 110V/220V NC Motorized Ball Valve, NO/NC 2/3 Way BRASS/SS 1/2"-1" Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/

Couple of things come to mind, this is one of them: https://redd.it/6p3f85

If you truly want just a valve this should work for you: https://smile.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/

You'll need a few fittings to make it work with the hose, but that should be pretty minor.

What if you did this:

Fermenting keg > pressure relief valve (set to say 22psi for spunding purposes at room temperature) > oversized tubing that could fit over the pressure relief valve > check valve > co2 keg > spunding valve (like 120-130psi).

Then you could use the co2 keg as a co2 tank.

Pressure relief valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=as_at/?imprToken=9h1Z-UNJjbEBc2vuAiG75A&slotNum=0&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007GDY3CU&linkCode=w61&tag=hombrefin-20&linkId=CNQ6I4IKSFEAO43T

I have done very similar stuff! Ill take some pictures for you to explain how it all works.


I was doing some thinking about your potential setup and i realized that if that unit's tank is plumbed up to drain in to a 5gallon bucked, there's nothing to prevent the bucket from overflowing. I have a solution for that though! all it takes is for the drain pipe to run through a float valve to the bucket.
this is the float valve, which is 8$
https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=float+valve&qid=1565294395&s=gateway&sr=8-6
what that would do is stop the flow of water in to the bucket so it doesn't overflow. The hose will then start to fill up until it backflows into the unit's reservoir, and because the hole you drilled is below the max fill line, the unit will fill up and then shut off, at which point you will have to dump the bucket and the units reservoir, but should increase your capacity by about 3-4 gallons, depending on how high up the bucket you put the float valve.


I know it all sounds a little complicated but its really quite simple once you understand the parts.
check out this awesome video explaining the part i just talked about. Imagine his bin is your bucket(you could also use a tote bin like that) and imagine that blue tube is connected to your unit's tank.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cm-DIHR6uVA

If you do make a spunding valve I recommend this pressure relief valve. I bought a pre-built spunding valve off of homebrewing.org and the pressure relief valve it came with sucked. I saw this on brulosophy I believe and swapped it out. My current fermentation is the first I've used the new one, but so far it is MUCH better.

This seems like a good idea: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466286871&sr=8-1&keywords=water+tank+float+valve

I dont think the can tapper would function properly with that ball valve. I think you need one like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That adapter should work I think but I got this one and make sure you remove the internals that are not needed in our application and would reduce the flow of tane

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is my can tapper

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you use a can tapper correctly the puncture point is at the bottom corner of the can so all of the butane can flow out as a liquid. Since the flow rate is increased the pressure inside the tube also increases and with my setup running two can tappers I increase the pressure even more.

If it helps here are some of the key parts I got:

1/8 BSP QEV

16g co2 regulator

3/2 valve

1/8 bsp 6mm push-to-fit hose connector

6mm PU pneumatic hose

1/8 bsp elbow

1/8 bsp 6mm push to fit elbow

AN4(aka UNF 7/16) to 1/8 BSP adapter

That last thing is used to change the regulator output from its funny UNF thread to BSP thread.

Can’t help you with programming but you could eliminate the pump and use gravity feed and a valve like this
https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Solenoid-Connect-normally-Closed/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3/140-4689437-7402416?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016MP1HX0&pd_rd_r=7e732eb6-69bd-4334-8901-5ebb49bc7e82&pd_rd_w=UV8Al&pd_rd_wg=BJTUS&pf_rd_p=0bda97b1-9615-4960-b748-b906a3521083&pf_rd_r=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43&psc=1&refRID=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43

You're may be paying many times more sourcing "locally" if you can't wait until chinese new year is over next month. On amazon anything that is 'prime' should be warehoused stateside


Search for water solenoid example
Compatible diameter tube for above example
and any relay board example.

Moisture sensors are literality just wires shoved into the soil. But beware of electrolyses degrading the metal, you can used galvanized nails or even pencil lead (carbon rods) instead

You shouldn't need a pump unless using a reservoir, but just in case 12V water pump example--note this has a bigger diameter hose connector you may be able to just shove a 1/4" inside and glue around for seal but look around at the different search results for matching hose diameters all around or possible legit adaptors


And don't forget the 12V power adaptor capable of powerint all that. ~2+A should be fine example

https://www.orbitonline.com/site_files/manuals/200%20Series%20valves%20chart.pdf

The minimum pressure for this valve is 15 psi. I am running my drip irrigation out of my rain barrel, with a pond pump. It doesn't make enough pressure to actuate the pilot in this valve.

I have tried the following valves, that only require 3 psi and they work. I wish there was better option that didn't require a minimum presure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MP1HX0

This is a pretty common item. You will have an easier time finding an adjustable pressure relief valve than a set 3 psi, but even that isn't too uncommon.

I found this one on Amazon

You could use a pretty standard mechanical float valve to refill water reservoirs. Something along these lines

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072073&sr=8-1&keywords=water+solenoid+110v

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072056&sr=8-6&keywords=timer

+some hoses / tubes / enclosure for your electronics and a few hours of your time.

you should be able to construct a nice system for 50-100 dollar

One thing I would say that might help is to move the check valves lower. They should be very close to the pump itself. Yours are so high that a lot of the water that gets pumped up comes right back into the sump. So they work more and the water level stays higher.

Make sure they are working when you move them. If not or suspect get a Zoeller 30-0181
http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

http://www.amazon.com/ss/customer-reviews/B0077RAX4W/ref=?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

I used this, and added another air tank the same size to it, to ensure that the water in the tank would have enough pressure to close the valve all the way. I've seen some people that used an electronic version that just tripped closed when the water hit a certain level.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007N0J98E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You can use a valve like that and control with a wireless relay such as a sonoff basic or a Z-wave switch.

Something like this:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71eIBr+ziPL._SL256_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I

This is basically what I'm referring to.

You know, like this.

What is you plan for a mash tun? I went with a 10g Home Depot cooler and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Weldless-Stainless-Bulkhead-Nipple/dp/B00JHMRH2Q

This is the cooler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-40-qt-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809

You’ll also need a screen or false bottom. I think the screen is a ver economical option https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC

I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYI58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQUTBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.

OP, I found out what you were looking for is called a spunding valve. It's essentially used to brew beer under a fixed pressure. I found this on amazon , how you'd fix that to a lid is beyond me tho.

​

Edit : Also to note: mason jars cannot hold pressure anyhow, you'd have to bottle your kombucha first and fix on the valve to the bottle cap/cork and set it fro like 30-40 psi beyond which the bottle will explode anyway.

Plumber here, buy this pump and this check valve . For your backup,it is a bit pricey but if you are on city water (well water wont work in the event of a power outage) I would recomend this pump It is powered by a stream of water so you don't have to worry about battery maintenance.

What kind of pump is it? I had a 5 year old big box store tether pump that would wake the whole house. Upgraded to a Zoeller m53 which cost me $125 on Amazon and is whisper quite. Don't forget to add in a check valve, which it doesn't look like yours has.

These are what I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452683726&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller

http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Check-Valve-Inch/dp/B0009WD1L4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tvTOSrD7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DQ4X69H0CMEEQG9T9PN

They do make automatic top offs for aquariums which could be modded for this. it is meant however to control a pump from a reservoir to fill up the aquarium instead of from the tap. you could buy [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-diesel/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373403144&sr=8-1&keywords=water+solenoid+valve+110) and use it with a JBJ ato(one I use for my reef tank.) Or buy this if you want the diy way and hook it up accordingly. There are already cheap options so I personally would choose another project and use whats already available on the market for your hydroponic system

If anyone is interested... I did experiment with one and it worked rather well for the test.

This is the valve I used

I had the same issue, lost track of how many times I flooded my grow space forgetting the water barrel. Ive been using this one in my barrels for years now with 0 issues. Easily handles home water pressure. Use it with a hose to 1/4" adapter and good to go for cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA252-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAX4W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

This might be the ticket, because with that type of tubing, I think you want quick connects. I'm not sure about the pressure rating, or if it would be easy to connect to an Arduino.

I think solenoid valve is indeed the way to go.

You could hook up something like this Amazon link to a relay and a 12v power supply. I guess that particular one gets hot if you power the solenoid continuously for hours at a time, so it might not be the best for you project.

Would this work? It's rated to 30psi and just needs to be capped on the male end.

http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Valve-10-400-Series-Pressure/dp/B008835NQC/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1412969259&sr=8-12&keywords=pressure+valve

This one is adjustable, but needs to be adapted to 3/4".

http://www.amazon.com/Control-Devices-Series-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B007GDY3CU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412969259&sr=8-1&keywords=pressure+valve

> stainless steel 316 Tee

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----

>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----

>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG

>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper

Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaIDb22XPC3K

He’s talking about these. When I got my gauge set up I got theses with the built in valves.

You'll need the full power of an electricl outlet to do this. At least 1500 watts or 10-12amps. So you don't have power?

You can use a 12v pump and a solar panel. Look at Harbor Freight 12v pump and look for Harbor Freight 60w solar panel.
If you don't have power, you'll need to pump water up and use gravity feed to get pressure. A rain barrel about 30ft higher then where you want water should give you enough water pressure. This a float valve helps: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465850762&sr=8-1&keywords=float+valve

When you replace it you really need to add one of these

here

So what I would do is, remove that union, connect the check valve and PVC down to the pump (I'd drop in one in the sump). You'll need a threaded adapter on the pvc to the pump and any 45 or elbow as needed.

Relay Timer: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Digital-Switch-110-220V-IDT-E2RH/dp/B008KV65MS

Pressure Switch: https://www.coleparmer.com/i/dwyer-cxa-s3-water-pump-pressure-switch-nc-range-35-150-psig-2-4-10-3-bar/6806346

Pump: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-58407-aquatec-58-flc-220-pump-with-220-psi-pressure-swich-internal-bypass-12-motor-leads-115-vac.aspx

Solenoid valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N0J98E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1/4" push in compression fittings.

I don't like the dash button idea. I do actually have those setup, but the delays involved would add uncertainty about time.

I found this solenoid, so that could work maybe, but Id have to hard a timer somehow. DIGITEN DC 12V 1/4" Inlet Feed Water Solenoid Valve Quick Connect N/C normall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_aqIczbQ7W75MF via @amazon

For what it's worth, here's how I solved the small tank problem:

https://i.imgur.com/ESjNxmv.png

I bought a check valve from amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B010JAQZK4

How this works: normally, the tank is full of water. That water goes through the finishing filter and to my fridge, icemaker, and faucet upstairs. When I open the valve shown in my picture there, RO water starts to flow into my kettle. It runs (with the same system you have), at about 1.5-2 gallons/hour. Because of the check valve, the tank stays full, and the fridge, icemaker, and faucet upstairs CONTINUE to have a full supply of water while my kettle fills. Unless I use 3 gallons of water from the fridge/faucet upstairs while the kettle is filling, (I don't use water that fast), my wife and kids never notice the service interruption. Finally, I use a float valve, mounted to a stick and clamped to the side of the kettle, to ensure I don't overflow. This way I can fill at 1.5 gal/hr over night.

Now - the water in the kettle doesn't go through the finishing filter, but all that filter is meant to do is remove off flavors from the water having sat in the tank. Since the kettle water never hits the tank, no worries. It tastes perfect, and measures nice and low on TDS, (in fact, my brewing water has lower TDS than my tank water, because the tank water suffers from TDS creep)

I use this.

I had to dial it in a bit but using a decent gauge it's not too difficult. When I have it turned to 60PSI it'll hold 20 perfectly, I have a bunch of stuff noted at home from my ~5mins of testing it took to dial it in.

It has held (and allowed to build) pressure on my Flanders Red for a couple months now awesomely.

No need to go insane on pricepoint for something like this, but if you want the kind of precision you got without having to trial and error shit, then go nuts.