(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike shop tools

>1. I think I have a standard Shimano threaded bottom bracket which is 68mm (BC 1.37 x 24 road). Will this be compatible with the BBSxx? Pics: [https://imgur.com/a/A92Cp1W](https://imgur.com/a/A92Cp1W

Yup

>2. Do I need any special tools to remove the bottom bracket other than a basic $10 spanner tool like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWX9J7S

You need a crank puller. I use the $10 Oumer one from Amazon. Works great.

>3. Will I need any spacers? I recall reading that I may need 5mm spacers, but unsure if that only applied if I have a 73mm bottom bracket.

Nah. Should be good.

>4. Where can I find the spanners that I'll need to get the Bafang inner and outer lock rings on? I didn't see them on the Bafang website.

You can buy them on AliExpress for $12 or get the high performance version for $19 from Luna. Or just get it finger tight, put a flathead screwdriver on it and tap it tight with a hammer.

>5. If I want to use the mechanical disc brake levers on my bike as a motor cutoff, what do I need to order from Bafang? Is is the "Ebrake sensor" which adds $25 to the cost of the kit?

Yes, you'll need brake sensors to use your stock levers.

>6. Should I order my kit from Bafang USA Direct, or Luna?

I don't have experience with either.

>7. I know this is a matter of preference, but what size chainring do you recommend? I ride my road bike quite a bit and can typically average 17 mph on my commutes. I'm hoping to bring this average up to around 25 mph while still contributing a similar amount of watts. Tire size is 700x35, stock cassette is 11/34T. I'm leaning towards the 52T chainring just for the top end where I imagine I'll be spending more time during my commute.

I would go with a 42T. The BBS02 likes to spin fast or it can overheat. You're going to want a cadence of around 90 RPM.

>8. Anything else I should be aware of as a newbie?

Make sure your battery fits wherever you plan to put it.

Essential Tool Kit:

• Adjustable wrench
  
• Chain whip/cassette tool
  
• Chain tool
  
• Allen wrenches, 4,5,6mm ... some accessories may need smaller. I like the Park Tools 3-way for most things, but it can have clearance issues in some places, so it's good to have some loose ones too.
  
• Torx "star" wrenches if your bike uses those fasteners.
  
• Cable cutter/crimper
  
• Tire levers
  
• Needlenose pliers
  
• Quick-link pliers (totally optional, but nice to have and pretty cheap)
  
• Spoke wrench
  
• cone wrenches if you have cup/cone bearings.
  
• metal ruler
  
• chain wear checker
  
• Screwdrivers (flat, phillips)
  
  This is going to cover you for 99% of your day-to-day maintenance tasks. Any other "specialty" tools, consider buying them if/when you need to do the job that they're for. Also measure the cost/convenience of buying the tool yourself or having the LBS do this one for you. It makes no sense to go buying (for example) bearing presses and pullers, etc... unless you decide you're going to get hardcore. Bottom bracket tools might fall into this category, but you have to make the call yourself ... you're not going to have to do a lot of BBs, unless your ride in a lot of slop... However, the tool is pretty cheap.
  
  Also, unless your budget is really constrained I'll echo /u/TheSpanishImposition's comment and encourage you to spend a little more for a quality tool. Not only will they last longer, they'll do the job better too. I highly recommend Park Tool in most cases ... good quality, reasonably priced. That said ... I bought the cheapest chain whip I could find on Amazon ... because it's a fucking chain whip.

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

Nice bike!

I just bought a new Santa Cruz Blur C S Complete Bike MD Matte Carbon - love it!

What tire gauges are you using? I have been biking for the past 30 years and own a bike shop and I recently came across this Tire Gauge. This thing is AMAZING, I highly recommend it!

Let me know what tire gauges y'all use - thanks!

yeah, exactly what u/stewmeatsundays has said, watch vids and rewrap the bars.
I personally like the Arundel cork bar tape.
Also, for older braking applications, I would recommend better brake pads like the Kool Stop Conti and you will also need a 4th hand cable puller, like this IceToolz unit.
The alternative would be to fit some long-reach modern dual pivot calipers like these Tektro r559 which come in nutted fitment to suit your frame.


nice looking bike btw, I love a Shogun. Had a Samurai until a few mths ago when it had an argument with some idiot in a Camry...Samurai lost

Please note that the links provided are just quick-n-dirty suggestions. Some of the Park Tool sets would cover a lot of these things, but when building from frameset up... you may want to seek out a shop with the odd tools you might only use once or twice in your life.

----

Aside from the standard tools, like box wrenches, cone wrenches, Allen wrenches (aka hex keys), flathead and Phillips head drivers, Grease... you'll need tools for:

• seating the fork race
  
• installing the bottom bracket (or press fit or one of a few other types?)
  
• cutting cable & cable housing
  
  In addition, you may need:
  
  
• adjustable crescent wrenches
  
• facing and chasing the BB threads
  
• at least a 5 nM torqe wrench, perhaps a 6 nM as well
  
• chainwhip tool
  
• spoke nipple wrench
  
  ----
  I'm sure you could "get away" with less, or perhaps the Park Tool Advanced Kit but there's a reason for these tools. Good luck.

for xmas i got a torque wrench set from pro bike tools. i've been using their co2 inflator for a bit and love it, and i love the torque wrench set as well. feels like a quality product, i'm very happy with it. awesome to actually use correct torque spec for stuff, i learned i was overtightening pretty much every bolt i ever touched...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKJTDWC

​

someone else posted the x-tools one which comes in a very similar sort of kit for half the price. i'm not sure the pro bike tools version is 2x as good for the money, but it does have a different torque driver than the x-tools set. i know my brother bought the pro bike tool set for less than full price around the holidays, might not be worth buying unless you can snag it for a discount.

​

No sweat, I kinda thought you meant a free wheel but you posted in r/fixedgear so just checking.

To change a freewheel out you'll need a freewheel removal tool that matches the splines/lugs on your freewheel. (Park Tool fr6 is a common one) You can just screw a freewheel on by hand, it doesn't have to be super tight, and pedaling will make it tight anyway. To remove it, you place the removal tool on the freewheel, fasten it in place with your axle nut/bolt/quick release skewer, and use a wrench or socket to turn the freewheel and unscrew it from the hub. Check out this guy.

You could also just get a wheel with a flip flop hub, and put a different freewheel on each side. That way you only have to take the wheel off and turn it around to change gears.

Tool kits are generally not a good idea. They often have a lot of tools you don't need, and they tend to be fairly low quality (especially at the price point you're looking at). For what you're trying to do, you only need 4 tools - a metric Allen key set, crank puller, splined BB tool, and Hollowtech BB tool. The crank puller and splined BB tool you probably will never use again, so going cheap on those is fine. But you definitely want a good Allen key set and a good Shimano BB tool is nice to have as well. I'd recommend these items:

Square taper BB removal tool

Crank Puller

Hollowtech II Wrench

Metric Allen keys

Your weight isn't the problem, a poorly installed pedal can easily work itself loose, damaging both itself and the crank, for riders of any size.

The threads on the pedal and crankset are damaged and will need replacing. These aren't difficult jobs but removing the crank (assuming you have a 3 piece set this link should help you find out) will need a special tool you are unlikely to have. Pedals you can do with a regular spanner though you need to remember that the left hand pedal has a left hand thread, this guide explains what to do.

Take a look at Pedro's tools. They are a little cheaper than Park, but are excellent tools. As /u/singlejeff said, get some basic stuff, but hit up your local co-op for the more expensive tools.

Here is a solid start:

Park Tool ST-3 I use this thing constantly, and Pedro's doesn't have a similar tool.

Pedro's Y Wrench Go ahead and get both the 4,5,6 and 2,2.5,3.

These three tools live in my apron. Absolute go-to tools.

Additionally, get an adjustable wrench(I love my Klein Tools wrench) a set of JIS Screwdrivers so you don't strip out your screw heads,

A good cable cutter

Some important chain tools are the Park CT-3.2 and also pick up the Park MLP 1.2 and CC-3.2(which imo is the absolute easies chain wear checker).

I would also suggest a L Hex wrench set you can pick em up cheaper at Lowes or whatever, but critical for getting stuck pedals off, speaking of which, a Pedal Wrench.

Finally a crank puller you really don't have to go expensive on this thing. I see em as disposable, because as soon as I see thread wear, I shit can em. I stripped out a vintage Stronglight crank and a C Record crankset using a worn out crank puller. No bueno.

All this shit will be expensive, but if bought over time, you will have a solid set of tools eventually. These are my favorite tools, I am sure others have their opinions.

2 things:

• Wrap the place where you're going to put the sensor in a piece of rubber, like a doubled section of tube, not only will this protect the paint, but it'll give the zip ties & sensor something to "sink" into, which should make it harder for them to move.
  
  
• buy a [fourth hand brake tool] (https://www.amazon.com/IceToolz-Fourth-Hand-Cable-Puller/dp/B0028N57KK). We don't really use them for brakes anymore(because we aren't running caliper brakes anymore, which is a good thing) but they work great for tightening zip ties far better than you can with your hands or pliers.
  
  Also, if it does go into the spokes, I doubt it would cause any damage. you'd just have to readjust it.

Rather than standard tire levers, I prefer to use a speed lever for changing my tubes/tires. Though I think I want to pick up one of their speedier levers, because that knuckle protection looks pretty sweet.

For a pump, I'm a huge fan of the Topeak Road Morph G. Though on one of my bikes I forgo the pump and just ride with CO2 and a chuck since I flat so rarely and it fit is my seat bag (though I still always carry two tubes).

And as others have said I try to never go for a ride without my multi-tool an ID some cash, a bank or credit card, and my phone.

Buy or borrow a simple chain checker, and re-index your gears. In addition, two simple cleaning steps can make things a lot smoother: wipe the gunk off your jockey wheels and clean between the cassette cogs by using a cloth and "flossing" between the cogs. Those steps can really make things work a lot better, especially if they've built up a lot of gunk.

Good luck!

I always bring Tire Levers, a new tube, a bike pump, wallet, & phone (I personally ride with a CamelBak, but you could easily fit this in a small underseat pouch). Plan A is fix the flat. Plan B is call a cab. Although I purchased my stuff at LBS, here's some amazon links:

Tire Levers: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Tire-Lever-Set/dp/B000BR1182/
Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-Floor-Drive-HPG/dp/B005UZO7RM/
Tubes (be sure and get your size!): http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Presta-Valve-Black-20-25cc/dp/B0068FAXTY

the link you provided is to the Jaco website for $27.95 with free shipping which isn't bad, but you can get them on amazon for $22.90 with free 2 day shipping with prime. Here is the 60psi and 160psi amazon links.

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

Nice ride!

As far as tools for maintenance, the ideal basic setup you can have is:

-pedal wrench

-4/5/6 hex wrench 3-way

-hex wrench set (For when your other 3-way can't reach a spot or you need a specific size hex. You might also need a Torx set depending upon the fasteners on your bike)

-chain lube

-chain degreaser (Dawn dish soap works as long as you make sure you wash it all off)

-rags to clean your drivetrain/frame (I recommend ripping up old T-shits you'll never need again instead of putting rags through your washing machine because the grease and bike solvents are terrible for your washer)

-grease (essential for installing pedals so they don't bind to the crankarms and for the seatpost so that doesn't get stuck in the frame). You'll also need a wire brush for application if you get the tub instead of the tube.

Pinion = cog, right? I don't know the technical difference but "cog" is the generally accepted English word.

Rotafix works for the cog, but obviously not the lockring. Rotafix applies very high torque, more than you need, so you need to be carefully not to over torque the cog and damage the hub threads. A chain whip is a little better if you have one.

For the lockring you need a separate lockring tool. Like this one or this one.

Lots of people really like this Shimano chain whip + lockring tool if it's not too expensive for you. If you are buying both anyway it's about the same price.

[Pro Bike Tool 1/4 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench Set – 2 to 20 Nm - $66](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKJTDWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I've owned this for about 4 months and it's been great. Easy to adjust and comes calibrated from the factory (there will be a little calibration form inside, looks legit). Top notch.

That's interesting, I'm riding an internal hub bike now, similar 22km commute in city.

With my non-internally geared bikes, I'm getting maybe 3500km per chain, but single speed I was getting closer to 11,000km per chain, probably helped by the always-straight chain-line and never mashing gears. Hoping with the reduced tension in the chain on my new internal hub I could push chain life further.

Get a chain checker tool, they're great for figuring out when you need to get a new chain without much fuss.
With achain checker if the thing on the end doesn't slide into the chain, your chain is still good enough.

That video was super helpful, thanks! I was worried about reverse threading like the pedals have, but the dust caps were just really stuck from age. I was able to remove them and uncover what looks like a square bottom bracket. So I'm gonna grab this tool from amazon to get them off. Does that look right to you?

Sounds like you have a good handle on what you need. Buying as the need arises is definitely the way to go...usually maintenance can wait a couple days for things to arrive. One tool I would highly suggest is Pedro's Vice Whip. It is a substitute for a chain whip and is so so so much easier to handle.

Edit: Take two with some input thanks to u/LukeWarmCage for teaching me some Reddit knowledge. We all learning lessons today...

My same post from before:

I was gonna suggest something similar. I've always been mechanically inclined, taking apart things like RC cars as a kid to see how they worked. But I got into road biking with zero experience working on bikes. I now have 6 bikes and do 90% of the maintenance on all of them myself. I learned most things from books and Youtube, when I would get stuck I'd take a bike to my LBS and make sure to ask them what I was doing wrong. Usually they are happy to offer advice and direct me toward a tool or technique I was missing. The only thing now that I'm not comfortable working on myself still are things involving bearings, especially if they are press fit. I don't have the tools to work on them and don't want to damage something trying to go without. I've been slowly converting my bikes from hubs with open bearings to cartridge bearings because I hate repacking hubs, and cartridge bearings last long enough that I don't mind taking a wheel to a shop for new bearings when needed.

u/dinkinflickin (great name BTW) While by now I have a pretty sizable selection of bike tools and a stand, you can do a lot of the stuff your bike needs regularly with really basic tools: a set of Allen wrenches, screwdrivers and maybe an adjustable wrench. Do invest a couple bucks in those plastic tire levers for fixing flats and get a chain gauge, which is a helpful little tool that tells you when you should think about replacing your bike chain. A worn out bike chain will still work fine for a while, but it is increasing the wear on your gears and they are more expensive to replace.

Things like your shifters and brakes are most likely to need occasional fine tuning. These are also both things that many new cyclists can mess up because they require some feel to get right. I've seen a lot of cyclists who notice their shifters aren't shifting smoothly and they adjust the wrong thing and make the problem worse. Here's GCN's video on indexing a rear shifter. "Indexing" is the term for getting the shifter to be properly lined up with the rear gears. This process is not easy as it takes some trial and error to learn at first, having someone show you how it's done is really helpful. Lastly since your bike is new you are unlikely to have to replace any components for a while, but as cables break in you may need to fine tune shifters. Chains, brake pads, and tires all have a finite lifespan and one of them is likely to be the first thing you replace in the first year or two.

The best thing you can do now IMO is leaning to clean and properly lubricated your bike. The grease and oils on your bike collect dirt and other contaminants and eventually turn into a gritty paste that starts doing more harm than good to the components. Keeping the bike clean and lubricated will reduce wear and protect your bike from corrosion. GCN also has a bunch of videos about cleaning and oiling bikes. Too much oil can be just as bad as too little because it picks up dirt. A chain cleaner like this one makes cleaning your chain much easier as you don't have to remove it from the bike.

My favorite lock-ring tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket-Wrench/dp/B0017SE6ZY

You can make a chain whip by drilling three holes in a strip of 1/8" thick strip of steel and tap the chain pins back through the holes:
http://i.imgur.com/bdePDhu.jpg

You can add handles and shaping as above, but just filing or sanding off and sharp edges and wrapping it with some old bar tape or inner tube will work just fine. There was a good thread on chain whips a while back...

I'd love to do it myself, though I don't have any of the tools for it, but I figure they're good to have around (I'll likely use them more than just this one time). How do I measure what size the bottom bracket is to get a replacement? Also, would this tool work regardless of the bracket size?

Without seeing your setup I can't add much, but these little things make these jobs simple. Works on brakes as well and it is clutch.

IceToolz Fourth Hand Cable Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N57KK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yo50Db0VYYVTD

Hmmm, I know those bolts. So the wrench I linked to isn't going to work. This one will, but doesn't have the pedal wrench (but is overall a slightly nicer tool.

Did you try using a cheater bar slipped on the end of the wrench? Did you try all this with two people--one holding the bike secure and upright, one wrenching on the wrench?

You are wrenching in the right direction, correct?

Sorry its giving you so much trouble.

As a side note, I was taught to never grease the BB shafts. This is because the spindle is hardened steel and the crank arms are (99.9 percent of the time) aluminum, and the grease combined with the torque of the bolt will actually allow you to bring the crank arm too high on the ramped spindle, leading to just this issue--as well as disfiguring the crank arm (all this assumes you have square tapered crank arms and bb).

Thank you very much for your answer. Would this or even this install/remove the omnium bottom brackets?

Also will this be a good chain breaker?

• Yes
  
• Can you even replace just the middle ring? If you have to replace all 3 then it might be cheaper to just get a whole new crankset.
  
• No idea
  
• No idea
  
• I would guess bottom bracket, check out these two guides on how to figure out where sounds are coming from: http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html & http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
  
• That one will work for you, getting the one without the handle like: http://www.amazon.ca/Park-Tool-Compact-Crank-Puller/dp/B0028YUZSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396388359 is actually cheaper and easier to use since you can move the wrench to get better mechanical advantage
  
• If it's a Shimano cartridge bottom bracket then that will work. Count the number of notches to be sure it fits.
  
• No idea
  
• Probably not.
  
• Metric wrenches in at least these sizes: 8, 9, 10, 15 and 17. Then whatever additional sizes you need to work on your bike.

Agreed. My dad's carried a small chain breaker on him for the better part of a decade and I can't say I've ever seen or heard about him using it. I think building this around a 15mm wrench would be more useful IMO. This has socket wrench capabilities, but it doesn't look like the sockets actually fit into the kit so that just takes up more space.

And TIL that this is a thing.

I bought this. I’ve only had it for a month, so I can’t vouch for long-term reliability. It’s pretty easy to use though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKJTDWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the tools are around than 50 bucks if you don't buy the name brand stuff.

Bottom bracket tool - $10 https://www.amazon.com/Fantasy-Life-Bicycle-Bracket-Hollowtech/dp/B01LWX9J7S/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=bottom+bracket+tool&qid=1559190402&s=gateway&sr=8-10

Cassette tool - $10

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Cassette-Lockring-Removal/dp/B000WY8LNC

Chain Whip - $10
Pedal wrench -$10

Chain pin remover - 2 bucks at walmart.

hex keys - should already own

cable cutters - 5 bucks/ should already own
Screwdrivers - should already own
torque wrench - if you want to really be careful with carbon parts. $20

​

Building and tuning a bike only took 5-6 hrs. This is with no knowledge of putting bikes together and just from watching youtube videos. It cost around 150 dollars around my area for a full assembly of a non boxed bike. Its a lot cheaper putting your bike together and investing in tools. The knowledge of building your own bike is invaluable when something does go wrong or breaks.

The first bike i built, i took to the LBS and they checked it out for free. It was pretty damn fun building a bike, so regardless if you're an engineer or not. its not that hard to build a bike. watch a youtube video and you'll see its relatively simple.

First. READ UP ON HYDRAULIC BRAKES BEFORE YOU START. DO NOT ALLOW THE LEVERS TO COMPRESS W/O A ROTOR OR BLEED BLOCK BETWEEN THE PADS OR YOU'LL HYPEREXTEND THE PISTONS. OTHERWISE:

You're lucky. If your bike has hydraulic brakes there is probably very little on your bike you can't disassemble with a set of hex keys from 2.5-10mm, possibly a T-25 torx, and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. Depending on your wheels you'll need cone wrenches to set the bearings and depending on your crankset and bottom bracket you MAY need specialty tools. To work on your cassette (I'm ASSUMING CASSETTE DUE TO HYDRAULIC BRAKES) you'll need a cassette lockring tool AND a chainwhip (or other method to hold onto the cassette).

Let's see some specs or photos.



When it comes to assembly, though, especially for the stem and saddle, torque matters.

$7 Park Polylube or $10 Phil's waterproof grease or Marine grease

and

$6 TriFlow or $8 Finish Line Dry

and

$8 lifetime supple of anti-sieze for all metal-to-metal (including threads) which does not move or get frequently disassembled

and



$16 at Sears, $10 at Harbor Freight socket-drive Allen set

0-9 nM torque wrench for $22. A VERY useful range extension over the 0-7 of the Park Tool TW-1. And do not be afraid of cheap beam wrenches! Be afraid of expensive clickers but not cheap beam!

$2 T-25 socket drive (brake rotors)

$15 chain tool

$7 cassette lockring tool

$7 shitty chainwhip (you need something to hold cassette to use cassette lockring tool)

I strongly suggest the above torque wrench (or its equivalent) for all small bolts on a bike. If you want to be safe with the big bolts (mostly on the bottom bracket and crankset depending on styles) you also need:

$25 at Sears, $15-20 at Harbor Freight or auto parts stores high-torque torque wrench (Much less often needed)

EDIT: Spelling fixes and some minor rewording.

D'oh, nice catch. I actually meant to link to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Speed-Bicycle-Lever/dp/B001BIZARI

Another tip is to use thinner rim tape, like Velox or plastic rim tape.

I'm not a mechanic, but you probably just need a new freewheel
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Single-Bicycle-Freewheel-Sprocket/dp/B001GSSIIG

And a tool to take the old one off and put the new one on
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Bikes/dp/B000AO9S68

it sounds like the pawls aren't engaging properly, probably rusty and/or gunky inside the freewheel.

They all come apart. I forgot a chain whip in my post above.

You might take some pictures to make it easier to understand. Also just to be sure we are talking about the same things

Honestly it's probably cheaper to just get a wrench and some tire levers.

Edit: Well it is at $25. Amazon comes through again.

Oh well, bottom brackets are harder to remove then just using a crank arm puller. In fact, the SRAM X5 crank arm installed on the SRAM GXP Bottom brackte just, come off! After that you need a special tool to unscrew the GXP bearing holders. I ordered this to do it:

https://www.amazon.ca/Park-Tool-BBT-9-Hollowtech-brackets/dp/B000C12BMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502887502&sr=8-1&keywords=bbt+9

2 days until BBS02 makes it to Montreal.

Looks like a socket should fit in there either 14mm or 15mm. If you don't have space you might need a Crank wrench or peanut butter wrench.

Park Tool CCW-5 Crank Bolt Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012Q5XAS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_ObkcAbCKWHW5Z

Noticeable stretch. How are you computing this "noticeable" stretch? Are you using a chainwear tool?

Dusty conditions = dry lube. Dry as possible. I recommend Rock & Roll Extreme.

Even with cleaning and lubrication you will replace the chain. And yes, worn chains (those past 75%) will start to wear the cassette, and then the chainrings once the chain goes past 100%. I wouldn't be concerned with derailer cogs.

Give it a nice wash, lube up the chain, clean the cogs, inflate your tires, and START RIDING!

I just told someone else on a different post about these new bike tire gauges made by JACO and they are freaking amazing. They work for both presta and schrader valve stems. They cost a bit more than other cheap, flimsy gauges online but the lifetime warranty & certified accuracy make it worth it IMO.

They are currently selling a 60 PSI bike gauge and 160 PSI bike gauge depending on the pressure you ride at. I got the 60 PSI model for my tubeless tires that I ride at 25-30psi. Nothing but good things to say about that company as I currently own some of their automotive products as well.

Buy this: http://amzn.com/B000AO9S68

Put that ^ in a bench vise, facing upward. Set the wheel down on it, so that the teeth on the tool sit in the grooves on the freewheel. Pushing down on the wheel, turn it with all your power like you're making a left turn while driving a school bus. It'll break loose, then you can just use the tool in your hand to unscrew it the rest of the way.

It doesn't take big-ass cutters to cut a cable. I could do almost any cable lock on the market with a pair of these - you just bend it and nibble through the outside of the bend a few strands at a time. Takes all of 5 seconds and would be much easier to conceal while using (and lighter to carry) than bolt cutters.

I think maybe bike tool makers have wised up to this - the old school jagwire cutters I have from 2003 or so have more reach to the jaws and can take on even larger cables.

I'm 5' 10" 160lbs
Last 6800 ultegra chain got replaced at 2k miles.
Might have been work before that but if I recall was still good at 1500.

Used this wear checker and replaced when it fell through .75
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Indica/dp/B000BR3LHQ

Agreed. This tool will definitely come in handy.

Well if you're gonna link to something why not link it to the item. Linking to an image for some bike related stuff can be kind of specific and not available everywhere.

The link to the item can help people learn more about the product and give them ideas for more terms to use google to find the item with.

and it is pedro's tools http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-6451250-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S

and for future reference - http://tinyurl.com/632hcv

The way I figure, you have to find where the old tire blew out to make sure you know where the hole was and make sure the glass/wire/thorn was cleared from the tire. Once you know where the leak is is on the tube, you may as well patch it. Either I check the tire as the tube is setting, or I use my spare tube and have the now patched one as a backup.

A total blow out one inch rip or so, will not be patchable and so you'll need a full tube. In that case you'll most likely need a tire boot or a piece of cardboard to cover part of the tire.

A mini pump will let you carefully ride the bike, but a larger bike pump and tire gauge means that you can fix the bike and have fully inflated tires. Some of the smaller ones become a real chore despite being rated to 120lbs, but my area has many gas stations, bike shops and places to inflate, so even then you can just get it part of the way and finish the job down the road.

Something like Portland Design Works 3wrencho would be nice, But I just use a standard 15mm wrench. Someday, I'll chop it in half and stow it with a mini cheater bar, but that day has not come yet.

You are correct -- the only difference between the 11 speed KICKR and the 10 speed KICKR is the cassette. They even share the same freehub, which is the thing the cassette sits on.

You'll need to replace the 11 speed cassette with a 10 speed one. You will need some special tools to do this, though. Are you having your KICKR delivered to your LBS? If so, I'd have them do the swap. If not, you'll need this (or it's cheaper alternative here), one of [these] these, and a large adjustable wrench.

After you collect those things, here's a nice video showing you how to do the swap. Instructions are the same even for your KICKR.

If you haven't already purchased a new cassette, get the cheapest one. Weight is of no concern for indoor training -- no need to be a "weight weenie." If there's any guidance to be had with choosing a cassette for a KICKR, I'd stick with the same gearing (i.e., if your rear wheel is a 11-25, get an 11-25 for the KICKR. That way there won't be any adjustment issues between the KICKR and your rear wheel.

Buy a floor pump. Pump your tires to the max pressure specified on the sidewall. Give the tires a good squeeze. Get to know what that pressure feels like. Before every ride, you should inspect the tire for any cracks or hazards and, at the very least, check the pressure by feel. Top off the pressure regularly.

In case you flat on the road, pack a seat bag with a spare tube and tire levers. Get a hand pump that attaches to your frame or a CO2 inflator.

Here's a video on changing tubes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwwfV99VV8I

While there's a lot of tools I wouldn't bring on a tour, I'd still like to mention that a Vise Whip is worth owning.

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142722-Vise-Whip/dp/B001Q270CC

I would look at getting a chain checker to see, and for cabling I would reset the cable at the derailer and adjust it if it really is stretched.

1500 miles seems low, not unheard of just low. Maybe take it to another shop for a second opinion or learn to do the work yourself. Save money and gain skill in the long run.

Thank you!

Do I have to buy the Parktool BBT-9? I have this one, does it not work?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00811WQJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just Riding Along.

chain checker will check for pin wear (sometimes called chain stretch. It's one dynamic of wear that can be measure. Lateral slop can't be measured as it were but can affect shifting and performance.

You can spin chain rings and cogs to see if they're straight.

Would something like this do the job? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Park-Tool-FR-6-Freewheel-Remover/dp/B000AO9S68/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1550103857&sr=1-1&keywords=freewheel+removal+tool+single+speed

Any standard Shimano compatible shifter cable will work. Stainless is always better than galvanized. Doesn't need to be Shimano brand, you could use Jagwire or whatever they have in the bulk boxes at your LBS.

Don't use Campagnolo cables, those are some proprietary nonsense. Ever so slightly different.

There's also some older styles of cables used for old internally geared hub shifters and some random downtube shifters. The flat part of the cable end on these is parallel to the cable, not perpendicular like all modern shifter cables. They are much more rare, generally a pain to track down when you need em.

I love love love these cutters. The awl built into the handle works wonders for opening up your cut housing. I don't know of any cheaper cutters I could recommend, but then again, I haven't used any other cutters in a very long time.

Edit: Oh, and if your bike isn't ridiculously huge or a tandem or something else crazy, normal length cables are gonna be just fine. The XTR (or any other MTB cables) stuff is probably gonna come with a longer length of housing because many MTBs run a fully or mostly enclosed system to prevent mud from clogging things up. Most road bikes have much more cable exposed and thus need less housing.

It's pretty easy, I just swapped out the crank on my S1 after an accident. You'll need a crank puller, adjustable wrench, some grease, and a torque wrench to install the new crank.

I wouldn't just tighten, since it's loose enough that you've certainly got some dirt in there that will quickly trash those bearings (if it hasn't already).

Pull the cranks using a crank pulller...it looks like this (cheaper options exist...that's just the first I found). Remove the bottom bracket, keeping in mind that the right one is reverse-threaded (just remember "loosen towards the front" and you'll be OK). Clean off all of the old grease, regrease, and reinstall, then reattach the crank arms.

This is all assuming it's an older cup-and-axle bottom bracket. If it's a one-piece cartridge, then remove it and throw it away...it's beyond trashed.

We use a chain whip vice grip in our shop, and it's infinitely better than any whip. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q270CC

Thank you. Does this tool work for either of them?

Just need one of these in addition to the crank puller. A nice big 1/2" torque wrench from HF will make removing it and torquing it up correctly a breeze.

FYI you can get a chain wear indicator to check you chain. this takes the guess work out of when you would need to replace your chain. The tool only measures for wear on the chain so rear cog replacement can still takes some guessing.

link for chain wear indicator.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Indica/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499892870&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+checker

link explaining chain wear
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

For example: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Checker/dp/B000BR3LHQ/. A $10 chain measuring tool like this could save you much more money in drivetrain components in the future.

I'd recommend getting yourself some bike repair tools, at least the proper equipment to repair a flat. You've probably got most of the tools you need in your multi tool, at least enough to get the wheel off.
I'd say grab yourself a mini-pump, patches, spare tube, [crank tire iron]{http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Speed-Bicycle-Lever/dp/B001BIZARI} and possibly a small bottle of chain lube.

These have all come in handy quite a few times on my rides, and I never go without them.

Buy this grease:

White lightning grease

Buy this general lubricant:

Triflow

Buy this multi-tool:

Alien II It includes all common allen and wrench sizes, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.

Buy this socket set:

Ice tools 8 x 9 x 10

Get this adjustable wrench:

Wrench

Buy these tire levers:

Park tool levers

With all of that you should have more than enough to do basic maintenance with under $80 worth of tools.

As you get more skilled, you'll need some specialized tools for the bottom brackets, headsets, and cones on your wheels but those will vary by type/bike, and in time you will own multiple bikes so buy the tools when you when you need them.

r/Bikewrench is better for this type of question, next time.

You will need a square taper crank puller and most likely a Shimano style cartridge bottom bracket tool.

Once the BB is out you can read off the spindle dimensions or measure them with calipers. Order your new cartridge bottom bracket to suit your budget from no name Amazon for a couple of dollars to Phil Wood (and others) for over $100.

If you don't have a cartridge bottom bracket, you will need to identify the particular type first to see whether specialty tools are required or you can get away with large spanners and pin punches.

Not to ask a question which was already asked, but did you try a 9/16th pedal wrench such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OZBK32?pc_redir=1411855218&robot_redir=1

Not all pedals are 15mm. I see is a 3pc crank, so typically it would be, but still, its worth asking.

Q-Factor refers to the width between the pedal threads, basically how far apart your feet are. Since you are neither getting a SRAM crankset with different Q-factors, or a Shimano double, you have nothing to worry about in this regard.

For tools, get the Park Tool BBT-9, as this will allow you to remove the bottom bracket and set the preload on the cranks. Here's a video for install of the crank, and install of the bottom bracket.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Mini-Chain-Brute/dp/B00781WVE2

This has been my go-to chain tool for over a decade (the same one). The shop I worked at also used this model as it's everyday chain tool.

Cutter, I use the Park one. If I were to buy again and on a budget, I wouldn't hesitate on the Pedros one here:

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-131839-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S/ref=sr_1_13?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1466189527&sr=1-13&keywords=wire+cutters#Ask

i ride with a pedros trixie tool and one of these everyday: http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Wrencho-Coated/dp/B003M2TLLC

So this one then?

You need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCW-5-Crank-Wrench/dp/B0012Q5XAS/

Many bicycle tool manufacturers have it in their set.

The following will get you out of most mechanical issues:
workstand
mini ratchet
set of hex bits for ratchet
1-10ish Nm torque wrench
10-100ish Nm torque wrench with adapter for 1/4" drive bits
Park spoke keys
homemade bearing/bb press out of plumbing odds and ends
Park chain checker
Park mini chain tool
Park chain whip
Park master link pliers
Park hollowtech crank cap tool

Chain checker. Or you can measure distance between pins.

Park Tool makes a specific fixed wrench just for this application, the CCW-5. Not that it's necessary for it to be bike specific or anything. Only $12 on amazon

> just because I do not have the tools to remove the cassette on the rear wheel

This is so easy to do, and the tools are not that expensive. Pick up a Park FR-5 and a Park SR-1 for < $30 and you'll be able to take your cassette off whenever you need to.

I use this - Park Tool CCW-5 Crank Bolt Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012Q5XAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VTUlzbT7RY36V

OP, to chain a cassette you'll need a chain whip and a cassette tool. Total cost for the two tools is about $30, but you can go cheaper if you buy off-brand tools instead of Park Tool.

I prefer this one because I can use a socket wrench with it and it takes up less space in the bike tool box.

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Indica/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1377578171&sr=8-4&keywords=chain+checker+tool

When you pick up your new chain, also pick up a chain checker. Replace when the chain gets to .75 slack... http://amzn.com/B000BR3LHQ

OK, here's what you need:

• MTB levers: https://www.amazon.com/Avid-Speed-Bicycle-Brake-Graphite/dp/B000YBEJKW
  
  
• Bars: https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Ride-Flat-710mm-Black/dp/B005Z27VT6
  
  
• Grips: https://www.amazon.com/Gobike-Silicone-Cycling-Mountain-Handlebar/dp/B01J3FPITU
  
  
• Cable cutter: https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-131839-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S
  
  As for the shifters, it's not totally clear. You should first try removing the MicroShift bar-end shifters and see if you can disassemble the bar-end mounting piece from the shifter lever. Ultimately you need shifters that look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Dura-Ace-SL-7900-10-Speed-Shifters/dp/B001LPK8JG (or you can just buy those). Or, you might decide you want the shifters on your bars instead, in which case: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SLX-RapidFire-Mountain-Bicycle/dp/B007Q4M8RQ - if you go this way you may also need a new front derailleur (a Shimano mountain one, instead of the Tiagra road one you have).
  
  You may also need new cables but probably you can cut the existing ones down (either way you need the cutters above).

One of these should save your thumbs some pain.

Tire levers aren't fancy tools. They cost under $4 and wont damage your rim like a flat head screw driver can, and are less likely to damage a tube.

Those cogs look fine man, if you suspect chain wear theres a tool for that

Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Checker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_BMtSCbQXRJKF6

I use the Jagwire pro - still not super cheap but it works every time, and the little awl to open up ends of housing is handy.

Cantis suck major balls at first, but when you learn their idiosyncrasies they are quite easy to service (though v-brakes are even easier).

My biggest issue when learning to work with cantis was failing to realize that adjustments on one side (via little adjustment screws that adjust the brakes laterally) affects the other side, so I would pull my hair out when I would get brake rubbing on one side, tighten the adjustment screw for that side (thus pulling the pad away from the rim, but the opposing pad closer), and then my opposing pad would start rubbing, so I would adjust that side, only to have my original problem again. It took me longer than I'd like to admit to figure out how that whole deal works, but it all makes sense when you think about the nature of center-pull brakes.

The other issue I had was getting the cable tension just right. It's very easy to adjust tension on v-brakes but cantis are much more finicky. I used to pull the cable with a pair of pliers, try to get the right tension, then simultaneously hold than tension and screw in the anchor bolt, only to either have brake pads rubbing or super squishy brakes. That is, until I discovered this handy sanity-saving tool.

I would do it in the spring, if you can get away with it but it is a risk. Winter weather is tough on the transmission.

you run the risk of breaking your chain if you don't get it changed. Happened to me on my commute home and walking the bike through the snow was awful. How long is your commute? If you don't have one already, I suggest buying a chain checker. They are $10 or so and will tell you how much wear you have on the chain. I would not go through winter if you are at 50% or less.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CC-3-2-Chain-Checker/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=asc_df_B000BR3LHQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312111916046&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14744392110579954068&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1016367&hvtargid=pla-493478287143&psc=1