Reddit mentions: The best bolts

I'm reading this as there being a code/ elfin-safety requirement that there be a "safety" on the speakers in spite of them being quite lightweight and quite securely mounted.
If this is going to be inspected by someone familiar with entertainment facilities, then random chain screwed in with a washer may not successfully meet the requirements. Chain that is formed by twisting or bending without welding of the links is right out, on fear that in a fire situation the softened metal will unbend.
The right way is detailed here:
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/technote/tn_v1n14.pdf

Now, on to practical details: if that bracket that you show falls off the wall, then the safety on your loudspeaker needs to secure a dynamic load of not just the 2kg speaker but also the 3kg bracket. The rule of thumb for rigging of dynamic loads is multiply the load by 5, and that gives one the required rating of your hardware, assuming that all hardware is used correctly.
For attachment to the speaker itself, the right way is to use a forged shoulder eye bolt, bolted right through a surface of the box, with a big-enough backing plate that it won't pull through with a sharp 25kg tug (it's not the fall that is the problem, it is the sudden stop at the end...) No-one trusts a screw (self tapping or otherwise) in this situation.
Then I would suggest a standard lighting safety cable of appropriate length to lasso the beam and clip to your speaker eye.
On some speakers it is pretty obvious how to remove the woofer so that you can peer in and see where it is safe to drill. You also want to be sure that a sudden tug on the top/back/side face of the box (as appropriate) isn't going to just disconnect that face from the front face which is carrying all the weight of the heavy magnets in the drivers.

Had something similar happen to a Genie screw drive I had a few years ago.
This may or may not be the same problem with yours, but if it's grinding, it sounds like it is the same thing.

The black plastic thing that slides in the track of the opener, has teeth on top of it that engage the screw. When you pull the rope that pulls the lever down, that disengages those teeth. That plastic thing is called the carriage. If it's grinding, then the teeth have probably broken off or worn down and are just grinding away because there's not enough teeth left to engage the screw.

Here's what one looks like:
https://www.amazon.com/Genie-34107R-S-Screw-Drive-Carriage/dp/B000CST1L4/
You can see the teeth on the top part sticking up. That's what raises and lowers with the engage/disengage lever/rope.

You'll have to take it off to make sure that's what it is. There are several youtube videos showing how to remove/replace the carriage.
Then make sure you get the right part number for your particular model # opener, before ordering a new one.

How much movement do you expect?
Does the top need to be fastener free?

One thought would be to install rivnuts into the sheet metal top then fasten the wood top using connector bolts. The holes thru the wood top would have enough clearance to the bolts to allow movement as long as you dont let a 500lb gorilla tighten the bolts.

The connector bolts are relatively low profile and shouldn't interfere with the tops function. But They could also be set in a counter bore with similar clearance between bore and head as the shaft and thru hole to allow clearance.

Rivnut example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFVHCTL/

Connector bolt example
https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973445744-Connector/dp/B00KM4OYJC

I second this, /u/SunSwanetchna. U-bolts would be a good fastener for this job. You could get some like these and paint them black. Then you could adjust the planks up and down; wouldn't have to get it perfect the first time.

Good luck, but often the best way to tell a left handed screw from a right handed screw is the direction of the thread.

For right handed screws the phrase "right is tight, lefty if loose" will work.

For left hand screws however this does not work. Commonly these are called "reverse threaded screws or reverse thread bolts" in which case the opposite would be true. Turn left to tighten, right to loosen.

It is always important to use the correct screwdriver or wrench for applying these. If you use a right handed driver than it may cause problems with a left threaded screw/bolt.

oh also I should mention it needs to have slots like those buckles I showed, to allow weaving string or paracord through. So that it can be weaved on either end seperately and later, when someone attaches it together Click that's it. and yeah it is a fairly specific thing.
That reminds me that url that was linked, I was looking stuff and something along the security lines of a bolt seal but in much smaller form is definitely what I had in mind.

https://www.amazon.com/NovaVision-Brand-Containers-Trailers-Yellow/dp/B01N5W55IA

The two ends come apart on that listing, and you're meant to run one end through bolt slots on any cargo truck and then once it seals you can't take it off without tampering or bolt cutters.
Only in my case, I'd want there to be smaller sized and room for running paracord weaving through both ends. Hmmm.....

Couple teardown pics on this comment

Using a Makerbeam Starter Kit + some extra 300mm beams, Corner Cubes, eye plates and longer bolts for mounting other badges and the power strip on the back.

It was the best build project kit I've done since Legos lol

>concrete wedge anchors

I like to use https://www.amazon.com/CONFAST-Lag-Shield-Anchor-Short/dp/B071K8R6CP/ or https://www.amazon.com/CONCRETE-LEAD-ANCHORS-10-Pcs/dp/B07JMKW5HR/ hope that helps.

Probably just best to get an adjustable wall mount and mount to either side Example

Also want to check if there are wood studs or aluminum studs (common in high rise buildings) if aluminum studs you have to use toggle bolts (HERE ARE SOME!!) and then mount using those instead of the supplied hardware

It probably doesn't look quite as sturdy as it really is. I ordered longer versions of the original bolts that held the black handlebar brace in place, from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAVIL66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then I simply installed them, and added 4 nuts to each bolt, along with washers at every end of the bolts, and tightened them very well with some blue Loctite. It doesn't wobble or bend or anything, and is quite solid. Feels like it's just part of the handlebar assembly. Those extra two inches make a big difference.

edit: correction: zinc plated:

https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Chromate-External-Flanged-Non-Serrated-Threads/dp/B00DD3TAU2

Yeah, works great holding bikes together

I decided against digikey and went with a combo of Amazon and Ebay. Here's the parts I bought:

>Cheap trrs cable from amazon $5.69

>100 M2 screws from amazon $4.99

>50 M2 spacers from ebay for $4.49

>200 diodes from ebay $3.29

>70 gateron blue switches from switchtop.co for $22.75


I bought 2 pro micros from ebay and 1 from amazon just because I had amazon giftcards and might use the extra pro micro for a numpad.
>pro micro from amazon $8.70

>2 pro micro from ebay $10.98

I couldn't print a 3D wheel for the ThunderStick spinner like Glen has:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ymywodZ2V0

so I made an alternative. This wheel is very sturdy and will never break.

US Pricing:

SpinTrak: $69

• Knob: $12
  
• 160mm wheel: $42
  
• Total:$123
  
  Thunderstick spinner: $50
  
  
• Interface board: $12
  
• ucell 160mm hand wheel (16mm ID): $14
  
• 13mm to 16mm bushing: $1-10
  
• Total: $77-87
  
  Spinner: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC
  
  Wheel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFTS9RF
  
  Bushing : https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-OD-X-13mm-ID-1-5-mm-THICKNESS-6061-ALUMINUM-TUBE-PIPE-ROUND-L-12-INCH/113870820679?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  
  (I don't have a good source for bushings, so I cut from stock)

Hey OP, First of all, nice rack!

Secondly, a lot of people are commenting about your choice of hook for which you've hung the chains from.

Most of the commenters are correct in saying that the 40kg load is rated for a vertical tension, rather than a horizontal shear/bending (like you are using them here), but no one has offered up much advice, so I thought I would give you my 2 cents.

If you are at all worried about the rack falling, you could switch to something like these and use something like these to hang the chain.

This is still decorative and they come in many sizes, shapes, and styles. Many are shorter on one side, so you will have some play with how far out from the wall you want your rack to hang.

https://imgur.com/a/gi7kf inside facing down with the side on the left and the back at the top of the image. You can see that I recessed the holes for the bolts that connect the side to the back. In this position, the mattress support is covering another one of he bolt holes. There are four bolts in total connecting the side to the back, so a total of sixteen structural ones. The mattress support is angle aluminum spray painted black and that too is bolted into threaded inserts in the legs.

The bolts are pan head Allen wrench types.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KM4OYJC/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_of_39?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CK8JTGGYA7XBB2ATWP70 so there isn't really a place for the baby's finger to get stuck.

I bought this (it's a pack of 8, but you could get one at home depot or similar) and it works perfect. Just cut the head off and then to the correct length.

• Car Key
  
• iPhone 6s
  
• Leatherman Wave
  
• ThruNite Ti5 NW
  
• Dopp Regatta 88 Series Front Getaway Pocket
  
• Fisher Space Pen
  
• Field Notes - Pitch Black
  
• Ruger SR22 (While I save up for an M&P Shield 9mm)
  
• Brass Swivel Snap
  
• Leather key fob
  
• House & Office Keys
  
• LaCie iamakey 8GB USB drive
  
• Swiss+Tech Utili-Key
  
• Kershaw Leek BlackWash

they do make eye bolts that are much shorter than what you can find at home depot.

something like this

again, check with a local ace hardware. their stores near me carry every uncommon piece of hardware you could imagine. if you don't have one nearby, i'd cut down one of the eye bolts you can find. i like the idea of being able to loosen the bolt and sliding it out of the channel instead of drilling through the roof rack.

That head is 100% round. A hex head screw has 6 sides. Trust me, I worked in QC for fastener company for 10 years. Did you check the link I provided?

eg:
http://www.amazon.com/4-20-1-57-Joint-Connector-pieces/dp/B003QKYSDG

Seems like you just need bolts. Studs are the threaded parts coming out of the exhaust port, which the manifold bolts on to.

Those missing bolts are simply to support the exhaust.

https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-motocyklov/honda/nvs50-14817/nvs50-today-28719/nvs503sh6-714748/exhaust-muffler-11090325

Looks to me like you want an M8 threaded bolt that is 40mm long, with a flanged head. Somewhere like Coventry fasteners could hook you up.

Or call Honda and ask if they have the following part number:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-95701-08040-00-Bolt-Flange-8X40/dp/B007JKQ7K6

Don't ride it like that BTW, the manifold wont enjoy supporting the full weight of the exhaust.

Get something like this and screw it into a stud:

https://www.amazon.com/Forney-61369-Shoulder-Galvanized-2-Inch/dp/B003XEW5E4

They also make them with the same threads as a toggle bolt, so you could construct a toggle eyebolt.

That'd be zinc, yellow chromate. No cadmium to speak of. Example

I'd place money on this being the problem --http://www.amazon.com/Genie-34107R-S-Screw-Drive-Carriage/dp/B000CST1L4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1373510076&sr=8-10&keywords=garage+door+trolley. Teeth get stripped rather easily.

But if it's a rental, that's the landlord's problem.