(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best dash cams & navigation electronics

Your cigarette lighter is most likely continuously powered. Take out the dash cam power plug. Run the car for like 20 minutes (to charge it,) and then turn off the car, and use the cigarette lighter. If the lighter heats up so you can smoke, it is always powered.

Or take any other 12 v cig lighter device and plug it in, like a radar detector, or a defrost heat thing.

Anyways, most fuses in the fuse box (there are 2) are continuously powered. Do not use the fuse box under the hood if at all possible to avoid. Under/in the dashboard is the most common fuse box to use. There might be a 3rd fuse box on newer vehicles, which is in the trunk, this is fuse box is usable, but unfavorable for most. - For hardwiring. To complete the circuit, Tap a fuse to fuse box = positive; Ground wire to unpainted bolt/nut = negative; both must be connected to complete the circuit. Hardwire kits with low voltage/timer cut off is suggested, cheap ones exist, be careful to pick the correct one (Micro USB is common in cellphones vs Mini USB is common in dash cams) - Some dash cams are Micro however. Cheap kits are pre-set and unchangable, more expensive kits (Cheap $13 USD vs Expensive $24 USD) often make lackluster dash cams less attractive due to price. You could simply purchase an Excellent parking mode, Excellent build quality, Good/Fair video quality dash cam which will last longer.

There are many dash cams to choose, I would choose one with Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, and Good/Fair video quality. There are Fair/poor build quality, Lackluster parking mode, and Excellent video quality dash cams, but they don't last as long.

> If I wanted to do everything manually, I would use a GoPro instead. Any suggestions?

Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = cost. Different vendors offer different things included/excluded.

Discount code: Receive $10 off with "top5blackboxmycar" when shopping for a dash cam over $99.99 at BlackboxMyCar.com

*Note: I pulled a lot of links from BlackboxMyCar.com, but look around for the best price, I just wanted you to be aware of the discount code.

Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality:

1 ch systems: These don't have wifi/cellphone app:

• Thinkware F50 1-CH ($69.99 USD) - Fair video quality, Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode. - Lacks a Wifi/cell phone app, but format free technology helps and reliability is top notch. - 1080P @ 30 FPS - ($69.99 USD) - 2nd vendor. ($90-110 USD) - 3rd vendor. - There is a coupon code for this one in the video description. Discount Code: blackboxmycarf50 to get $10 off from BlackboxMyCar.com
  
  
• BlackVue DR450-1CH ($119.99 USD) Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, lacks wifi, optional gps, lack of reviews. - 1080P @ 30 FPS Front
  
  2 ch systems (front/rear): Lacks Wifi/cellphone app.
  
  
• BlackVue DR430-2CH ($169.99 USD) - Lacks wifi - 720P @ 30 FPS Front / 720P @ 30 FPS Rear
  
  
• BlackVue DR470-2CH ($189.99 USD) - Lacks wifi - 1080P @ 30 FPS Front/ 720P @ 30 FPS Rear
  
  
• BlackVue DR490-2CH ($229.99 USD) - Lacks wifi - 1080P @ 30 FPS Front / 1080P @ 30 FPS Rear
  
  These have wifi/cellphone app:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-100B 2-Channel ($269.99 USD) - Excellent built quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Good night/Good shadow, built in wifi, optional GPS.
  
  
• BlackSys CH-200 2CH ($369.99 USD) - New lacks reviews.
  
  
• BlackVue DR650S-2CH ($360 USD) - Where to purchase Excellent built quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Good night/Good shadow, built in wifi, built in GPS. Capacitor 1080P Front 720P rear
  
  BlackVue DR650S-2CH Unique feature, Cellphone notifications of G sensor activation(s) in parking mode (Free), and cloud streaming feature (paid.) Maximum SD Card 128 GB (Micro SD)
  
  BlackVue over the cloud feature part 1
  
  BlackVue over the cloud feature part 2
  
  
• BlackVue DR750S-2CH Cloud ($390 USD) - New lacks reviews. - Front: 1080P @ 60 FPS, Rear: 1080P @ 30 FPS - Improvement over DR650S-2CH partitioned Micro SD card, for G sensor events/parking mode/regular recording modes. - Something that was missing in the previous BlackVue DR650S.
  
  
• Thinkware F770 ($360 USD) - Where to purchase Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Superior night/Good shadow, built in wifi, built in gps. 1080P Front 1080P rear
  
  Thinkware F770: superior night vision & Dual Save mode Maximum SD Card 64GB (Micro SD)
  
  --------------
  
  Lackluster parking mode, fair/good/poor build quality, Excellent video quality: People pick these dash cams generally for video quality.
  
  
• A119 V2 ($80-100 USD) - V1 had minor flaws but is cheaper - V2 corrected some of those flaws and had firmware improvements. + Known problems of the A119 Excellent video quality day/good night/good shadow, good/fair build quality, lackluster parking mode. Discreet.
  
  
• A119S V2 ($100-120 USD) - This one has more potential but currently equal to the A119 due to lack of firmware improvements. - Currently lacks parking mode.
  
  
• Street Guardian SG9665GC ($234.95 USD Lackluster parking mode/ Excellent video quality, excellent build quality.
  
  -------------
  
  There is a huge amount of buyers remorse in dash cams. What I can say is fully research the dash cams you want, and the dash cams you don't, so at least you understand your decisions. Picking Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, and good/fair video quality dash cams is a lot less hassle, above I listed only Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, good/Fair video quality dash cams, but there are Excellent video quality, Fair/poor build quality, lackluster parking mode dash cams out there that is worth knowing about. Anyways good luck in your decisions.
  
  *Edit: Prices change rapidly in the dash cam market, however, the copy pasta does not. I have seen prices rise rapidly, and fall just as fast, for no apparent reason, even as newer models have been released.
  
  -----
  
  Cheap Hardwire kit ($12.95
  USD) - Some flaws but livable ones: Cold weather effects this kit, (trouble supplying dash cam with enough energy in cold weather) once car warms up it is fine. Short cable lengths (that little black box will end up on your dash board) most aren't bothered by that. Preset/unchangeable low voltage cut off (protects most vehicles but not all.) Lacks 2nd fuse 1-5 dollar fix from any hardware store. A119 and most dash cams are USB Mini, most cellphones are USB Micro. The Tap a fuse, should match your vehicle's fuses Fuse types. The kit will most likely come with ATO, or Mini, Mini low profile and Micro 2 are a bit more rare. - With a tap a fuse make sure to insulate the connection, no need to create a short. Use the smallest shrink wrap possible that will fit.
  
  More expensive hardwire kits:
  
  
• Power Magic Pro ($24 USD)
  
  
• multi-safer ($34.95 USD)
  
  
• Vico Power-Plus Battery Discharge Prevention (BDP) Device ($60 USD)

Thanks.

Your ST looks really nice too btw. I peeped your history. Never liked the older ones, but the newer ones like yours and the RS. Sweet Jesus the RS haha.

My dashcam is the A118-C. Got mine off Gearbest here. Which is actually on sale for $50 right now. It's a great entry level dashcam. Only issue I have with it is lens warp. The housing around the lens is plastic and when heated warps slightly. Which causes some focus issues.

Some of my videos during the day on my youtube show this. It's the right hand side that suffers for me. Other than that, it's an amazing cam.

Some other great entry level cams are the G1W and the Mini 0805.

If you like the form factor of the A118, but want better recording quality and build (metal lens housing that eliminates warping). You can buy the Street Guardian SG9665GC. Though it is a little pricier at $200. Worth it though. Here is a comparison between my A118 and the SG9665GC.

I am actually thinking about upgrading to the Street Guardian for my front and move my A118-C to the rear.

Dashcamtalk (link with comparison) is a great forum to get info about cams. There are many more than what I listed. So browse around and research some before buying.

Hope this helps.

I have a 2012 accord, and the 08-12 have the same body style, so I know what you need and some potential problems you might run into.

You should replace the radio because it'll make a dramatic difference in the sound quality, same with adding an amp. Also, if you want to put quality speakers in, you'll need an amp or you'll risk blowing your speakers.

Problems you'll run into:

• With a new head unit, you'll lose the function of the screen on top, but I think it's a good trade off for the sound quality
  
  
• You can't have speakers in the front doors that are too deep because it'll hit the window, but there are good shallow mount speakers to put there.
  
  
• The back deck WILL rattle, even you you put a good amount of deadener on it, deadener will still help a good amount though. To solve this problem, deaden it, put weather stripping along the back of the deck where it meets the window (I doubled it up where the brake light is back there), and I drilled two small holes from inside the trunk and zip-tied it down around the metal frame under the deck. This worked great for me and I have two 13" subs in a ported box. If you're looking for one 10", it'll definitely work. It might look a little janky, but that's the only way for it to not rattle.
  
  
• To have someone install everything, run the wires, and deaden what you need deadened (which is, at minimum, the front doors and front door panels, rear deck, trunk, trunk lid, and probably the the pillars in the back), you're probably looking at around $300-$600 for about 4-6 hours of work, depending on where you take it to. And some charge more for installing if you didn't buy the parts from them.
  
  In your other post on /r/CarAV, you said you have a couple grand to spend, so I'm going to put a complete SQ system together that you'll be able to keep for a long time and move from car to car.
  
  
• KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit - $50 (they have a cheaper 4 gauge amp kit, but it doesn't have a big enough fuse on it)
  
  
• 100' KnuKonceptz speaker wire - $20
  
  
• RCA cables (need 2 more pairs) - $10 x 2
  
  
• Dash kit - $50
  
  
• Wiring harness - $12
  
• Antenna adapter - $10
  
  
• Steering wheel control interface - $80
  
  
• Kenwood excelon headunit - $260
  
  
• 6.5" Focal component speakers for the front - $250
  
  
• 6.5" JL coax speakers for the back deck - $140
  
  
• Baffles for the speakers on back deck - $8 (you need these if you want to hear these speakers because of noise cancelation from the sub)
  
  
• 10" pioneer sub - $300
  
  
• Crappy pre-fab sub box - $60
  
  
• Custom box for your car - $120 + $15 if you want a grill (They will build it to the specs of the sub, which is 1 cu.ft. sealed if you go with the pioneer)
  
  
• Kenwood excelon 5 channel amp - $500
  
  
• 25ft^2 of sound deadener - $55
  
  
• $1815-1890 + $300-$600 installation + your tax rate
  
  You probably can find some of this stuff cheaper on amazon, but they're not a registered dealer so you're SOL if something goes bad.
  
  I'd go in to the store, get two quotes, 1) just to install all of this stuff you bought online and 2) what it would cost to buy everything from them with installation and see which is cheaper. The cost for dealers on door speakers and subwoofers is literally half of what they sell for, not head units though, they have very little mark up. Chances are the store might end up being cheaper if you tell them exactly what you're looking at online and how much you're planning to spend on it. Win-Win for you and the dealer, he get's business and you get a better price and similar quality products if they can compete with the online prices. Plus you'd be supporting a local business, unless you were planning on going to best buy, car toys, or something like that (don't do that, go to a local place). And if you buy all this stuff from a dealer and have it installed there, if anything goes wrong you can take it back and have them deal with it.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Budget - About $200 can go a little higher if there is a real increase in quality.


Source - An amp ( The Amp ) and hten into my phone or computer. I will buy a desktop amp in the future.


Requirements for Isolation - They are for use at home at my computer mostly there is no real isolation requirement.


Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized.


Preferred tonal balance - I like my sound to sound crisp and defined. I also like good bass that you can feel. I really hate it when songs sound almost muffled. My EQ's usually end up being a parabola shaped (u shaped). I hate it when the good bass sound comes at the cost of the rest of the audio quality. I also hate it when bass just ends up being a constant rumble (like what happens sometimes with the bass guitar) instead of sounding like punches if that makes any sense, but then again that may just be the songs themselves and not the equipment. I also like my guitars to great so when a crunchy guitar riff comes on I'm able to hear it well. Lastly I like vocals too. A well balanced sound with emphasis on the bass if it does not come at the cost of the quality of the other areas is what I'm looking for.


Past headphones - Siberia v2: Admittedly I did not buy these for music, they really suck in that department even with my portable amp they do not get loud enough and they have far too little bass and while they play the music nothing really stands out as good about them.

Sennheiser HD 7 DJ: I bought these last week somewhat an impulse purchase and I am not exactly happy with the sound, while it's better than anything else I own currently (I own Razer Hammerhead Pro's, Sennheise cx-300's and the siberia v2) I still don't think it sounds great. My car has pretty good sounding speakers. When I play a song in my car I can get both defined sounding guitar and great bass but with these headphones some songs guitar and/or vocals (most commonly guitar though) sounds like absolute crap. No matter what I do with the EQ I can't get it to sound right. I have 3 more weeks to return these if I choose to do so.

Preferred Music - I listen to a lot of different stuff, Most commonly metal, rock, rap and pop. I however also listen to trance, electronic, jazz, and folk from time to time. I'll post a few examples below.

Metal

Metal

Rock

Rock

Rap/Hip-Hop

Rap/Hip-Hop

The Viofo A119 is a very good dashcam that is enjoying a wave of popularity, especially because of the video image quality that it produces, but since you have set aside a little more for your budget, I would recommend you get the Street Guardian SG96655GC instead.

The SG9665GC has a world-wide reputation as one of the best dashcams available because of the stunning video image quality it produces thanks to the Novatek NT 96655 processor, the Sony Exmor IMX322 CMOS sensor, the 7 element metal body all glass lens and its superior build quality. The latest edition is Version 3 and is bundled with a 32GB memory card, OTG memory card reader, GPS and CPL.

This is a small, window-hugging dashcam that once installed, especially if you use the supplied 'cable hider' is a stealth installation dream, resulting in the SG9665GC looking like a OEM factory installed device that does not stand out.

You need not worry about whether or not you can use your 128GB memory card in this dashcam, it will take up to 256GB for many, many hours of recording. In addition, it has super capacitors inside rather that batteries and will be more reliable in climate extremes.

It is available here: https://www.amazon.com/Street-Guardian-SG9665GC-microSD-Supercapacitor/dp/B00U0OJMYG

It really depends on your budget.
You can get a decent DAC like this one on a budget http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-M2-Portable-headphone-amplifier/dp/B00KL3SACQ/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427350827&sr=1-18

But I'd recommend the the monoprice AMP/DAC brick http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350898&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+amp+dac

For the money, it's got everything you'll probably ever need and is actually pretty damn good.

The most expensive "desktop" DAC I'd recommend is JDS Labs ODAC http://www.jdslabs.com/products/46/standalone-odac/

It's basically as good as a DAC can get before you start getting into the receiver world.

As for what standalone DAC/AMPs actually "do," the best way to sum it up is that a good DAC will eliminate any sort of noise being generated by your PC and accurately translate your digital signal to an analog one. Better DACs will give you a more accurate signal to work with but there's only so much you can do before you're just wasting money.

AMPs on the other hand, vary wildly in what they do. Some amps, specifically tube amps, will "color" the signal to be warmer. Some people like this as it takes the "digital edge" off of music, but they're really nothing a good EQ couldn't replicate on a neutral AMP/DAC combo. Bad AMPs introduce tons of noise and distortion into your signal, good AMPs don't. Good amps also offer better separation between the left and right channels. The sky is really the limit on AMPs when it comes to price to performance but the bulk of that performance is going to be in raw power rather than in quality.

A good standalone AMP would be the Schiit Magni 2 http://schiit.com/products/magni-2

Their DAC the Modi 2 is also REALLY good, especially for the money. I have the Modi v1 on my desk right now and short of buying an ODAC, I don't think I could be happier with my setup.

Hope this helps!

That is a lot of money, but the magnetic removal looks good and Costco has a good return policy.

My first cam was a Garmin for a bit more than that Cobra and it's still the main cam in my DD. It's got speed/gps built in which I love.

For price though, we bought an Anker one for like $50 and it works great. It has a good and sensitive away mode that triggers if the car gets bumped which my Garmin doesn't have. Honestly, if you go with a name brand you'll be fine, or a not so known brand with good LEGIT reviews. Just gotta get that cam rolling to protect you from shitty people, and to entertain us :)

Roav DashCam A1, this one's in my wife's car, got two for front and back. $55 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076GYGVY5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vjcRCbF7EZS2B

There are many, look on Amazon. Personally I liked the Sony RM-X7BT, but they have discontinued it in the US and probably other markets. Look for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ. These type of adapters don't have a battery, they're designed for cars, so they can turn on and off with the ignition (if your car turns on/off the 12V sockets; mine doesn't). This particular set comes with a ground loop isolator, which you may not need, you'll only need it if you hear static or whirring (from the engine).

Bear in mind that these cheap ones will likely sound like butt with calls due to not prioritizing mic quality, and using the old BT narrowband standard. Since the BT Hands-free Profile 1.6 (circa 2011), BT has been able to do wideband or "HD Voice" quality, but not all manufacturers use it, and good luck finding one that advertises it.

I liked the Sony one because the BT receiver/mic was separate from the controls so you could position it better. The control unit is completely wireless and battery powered, and IR so it needs line of sight, but on the upside the battery lasts very long, and unlike BT remotes, it doesn't need to go to sleep, it just always instantly works, like a regular TV remote. The mic quality was also excellent and noise reduction top notch, I tested it by recording directly on my computer connected to Hangouts and going for a drive. I went that far. It also has HFP 1.6 with wideband, as all modern Sony BT devices, and even has an external mic input. If you can find it and the price is not too expensive for you, I recommend it.

Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget

Specs:

• 2012 Audi Q5 with B&O sound system
  
• Prefab box, ~39Hz
  
• 2x Sundown Audio EV-5 (dual 4 ohm)
  
• Sundown Audio SAE-600D Monoblock 600W RMS
  
• Accubas LC2i LOC
  
• KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
  
  The LOC in use has a feature where it can counter bass frequencies being lowered when the stock head unit starts lowering the bass output at high HU volumes to protect the stock speakers. It turns out this Audi didn't need that feature (bass didn't drop even at max volume).
  
  The box is what it is (quality wise it is actually OK), it's tuned a little high for my taste. Unfortunately with limited tools and no shop/space I decided to go with the prefab box. It cheap but gets the job done.
  
  How does it sound? It sounds really good, gets really loud after I set the gains "properly". One interesting note however is that the Accubass gain needs to be set to 95% of max in order for the "Maximize" LED to come on, when the HU is at full tilt. I'm tapping into the stock subwoofer amp output for the line in to the LOC, I might get better results by tapping into the front speakers but then I'd have to run cables from the HU all the way back, I'd rather not do that.
  
  I need to do some sweeps and check what the frequency response looks like. All in all it blends in quite well with the system, I'm really happy with it.
  
  Total cost for the install with shipping of parts was around $630. (it took ~2 days to install)

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

Oh wise audiophiles,

Forgive me in advance for any ignorance, this is going to be my entry-level purchase into the hifi world. This is not necessarily a 'puchasing advice' inquiry, but more of a knowledge inquiry on what I need to power my setup. I'm looking at buying KRK Rokit 5 G3s and the Beyerdynamic DT770 250 ohms purely for near-field music listening (no producing, mixing, DJing, etc.) at my PC. I was recently gifted the Xonar DX 7.1 PCI sound card for my rig which I believe is a sufficient DAC for Rokit 5s (correct me if I'm wrong), but I'm unsure if I'm losing some quality by hooking my monitors in with an unbalanced line via an XLR or 1/4" TRS to 1/8" TRS. Further to that, the Xonar DX does not split to mono inputs so I would need an adapter to plugin directly to my soundcard. I do enjoy having an external interface to control my sound devices and a friend suggested I buy a mixer such as the Behringer XNYEX502 as another possibility.

First question: is it worth buying an external DAC/mixer for my Rokit 5s compared to using only a Xonar DX soundcard?

I also understand that they DT770s need an amplifier to be properly used. The recommendations I've researched typically consist of the fiio portable headphone amplifier series or the O2/ODAC JDS Labs combo. I do not need a portable amplifier as these headphones will live at my station and I have separate headphones for portability. The O2/ODAC combo sounds like a great piece of hardware, but at $279, they greatly exceed the price of my DT770s.

Second question: Are there other solutions that I can look into that aren't portable or expensive?

If the O2/ODAC combo is recommended and is worth the price in combination with the DT770s, then I'm perfectly fine making the purchase. Just want to be sure it's not overkill.

Now for the (longshot) third question: Since I'm potentially looking into both a DAC and a headphone amplifier, is there a piece of hardware that can satisfy both in one tool? Seems like I could find a way of mitigating the cost by purchasing a device that could be both a DAC/mixer for my Rokit 5s and a headphone amplifier for my DT770s. If not, is there a stack I could purchase that have similar designs that would look aesthetically pleasing on my station (I'm a fan of clean looking and matching hardware)?

Again, sorry for any groans I may have caused and thank you in advance for your expertise.

The Sennheiser HD598 DrAquafresh linked is a great pair of headphones. Super clear, very comfortable, with that nice Sennheiser warm sound. Two problems though: they benefit from an amp, which is difficult for making them truly portable, and they're open, meaning they let a lot of sound in and out.

So, if you can afford a cheap portable amp like this FiiO, and aren't in loud areas, they're definitely the best option for you.

If you need noise isolation, I highly recommend IEMs. They will isolate sound much better than any "noise cancelling" headphones, while actually producing high quality sound. I have to say: avoid Bose if at all possible. There are much better options for the same price. See this buying guide to find a pair of IEMs for you.

If you don't like the idea of IEMs, most closed headphones will be pretty good at noise isolation. That buyers guide has a bunch of options.

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

I've only had mine for a few weeks, but I love it so far. I purchased mine as an upgrade from a [G1W] (www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3CWQyb06CKB1G) I had before. I'm not too knowledgeable on specs and whatnot, But I wanted something reliable that wouldn't break the bank. The reviews were good, the price was right and it serves my purpose perfectly. I hardwired mine and it sits up and out of the way but within arms reach if I need to snap a picture for any reason. [Here] (http://imgur.com/q2iV9n2) it is if you're interested. I can also upload couple of clips when I get home if you'd like. Cheers!!

So I’m sort of new to the audio setup thing, but I recently bought the AKG 7xx on Massdrop:


https://www.massdrop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones


And I also bought the Fiio E11 (that I can return):


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053KWDES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And I was wondering, should I get a better amplifier? The 7xx came with a large jack that looks like it goes into a guitar amplifier, while the E11 only has 3.5mm jacks ins/outs. I like the 7xx’s form factor and it’s very comfortable so I want to keep it, but I am not attached to the E11 at all and was wondering if I should replace it. Portability doesn't mean much to me, since I will use it mainly as an amp on my desk when I'm using my desktop.


Also, should I get a sound card for my desktop? Or is just plugging into 3.5mm jacks on my tower good enough for the most part? My budget is flexible but I want something that will do my current set of headphones justice.

Dashcam is a cheap way to have an extra peace of mind. Definitely recommend it. Also they are low maintenance. I don’t ever notice mine because it sits in front in rear view mirror.

Regarding the price, I say go for a mid range. The cheapo ones can be unreliable and low build quality. The expensive ones tend to be too much and more than what most people need. A good mid range dual cam is the A129. Make sure to get a good SD card too, one that is optimized for video. Fortunately they are pretty cheap.

Installation is easy if you just plug it to your cigarette lighter. Then you just run the cable in your trim, which is super easy to tuck into at the edge.

The next level is hardwiring it to your fuse box. That takes about an hour and can be done with a YouTube video instructional. Or take it into a car audio shop and they can probably do it for $150 or so.

Hope this helps!

> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best

I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.

But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.

OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.

This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.

Like people have said vinyl is a for those who love to tinker, and to hunt for that new record or upgraded component. If you just want to be able to listen to great sounding music and not worry about the stuff in the middle, download some FLAC files, buy a nice USB DA converter and enjoy, there is noting wrong with digital audio. If you still want to see what its all about, surf the craigslist list, get a turn table. then get a $30 pre-amp from Amazon, and a small headphone amp. the one i linked to actually has a built in USB DA converter so you can get your good sound card too. That will be the cheapest way to get in to vinyl, for just over $200 if you end up having to pay a high price for the turntable on craigslist list. those components i linked to with a decent vintage turntable and your nice headphones will sound great.

Pre-amp: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422075043&sr=8-4&keywords=phono+preamp

headphone amp: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_23?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1422075678&sr=1-23&keywords=headphone+amplifier

I bought one a couple months ago and I love it. I've actually recorded one accident at an intersection already (luckily not my own) and was able to offer the footage to those involved and the police if they needed it. After doing some research I heard a lot of good things about the G1W. There are knockoffs, but the one I got from "Black Box" on amazon appears to be legit. I got the "stealth" one as well for less glare from it. Here's the links to everything you need it you want to pick up a good one for a good price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HMNFWYW

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CES44EO

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JWGC29U

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L3XXRI0

If you've got prime (which you should because it's fuckin awesome. Seriously get it or find a friend with it and get on theirs) then this whole setup almost exactly a hundred bucks and you're all set to go.

PS, great car, how long have you had her? Sorry to see the damage.

I currently use a Spy Tec A118 (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0GKVS) that looks pretty good during the day but the nighttime quality is not that great. When I have the funds I'll be upgrading to the Street Guardian SG9965GC (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U0OJMYG) as it's the same exact form factor as the A118 but has much better internals, which in turns results in better nighttime footage.

Here's a great detailed report of the SG9965GC: https://dashcamtalk.com/sg9665gc/. One of my friends just installed this dashcam and it's definitely worth the upgrade.

For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.

Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.

Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.

I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.

Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)

Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480

Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673

Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745

Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)

Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)

I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246

3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/

Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy

Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/

I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.

Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic


And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.

I would go with

$300 w/install kit Pioneer 80prs

$90 8" silver flute for doors

$60 XT25 tweeters

$70 subwoofer box

$80 Skar VD subwoofer

$170 MB Quart 5 channel amp

$60 knukonceptz wire kit

$40 Noico sound deadener


Over budget, $870, but that is some good kit for the money. I am not sure which wire harness you need since you aren't keeping the stock bose amp.... that would be a great thing to ask in crutchfield chat window.

Run the 80prs in network mode, cross your sub/mids at somewhere between 80 and 200, mids and tweeters anywhere from 2500 to 5000hz. Tweak around until it sounds best to you. Should sound great.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

I've never cared for "the best" terms, I'm more into what fits for you and your budget. I got a dashcam and it lasted all but two years, the battery inside "popped" which caused the screen to go all blue. Not sure if the Texas heat or age got to it, my truck is parked in a carport and only gets mild evening sun.

So I bought this one from in 2016 for my front dash Amazon so far it does the job. If you hardwire it in make sure it has constant power even when the ignition is off since it is all capacitor the date and time will reset after so many hours without power.

This one is my rear camera, I got it free with gift cards when it was $25 and it has muted colors, trees are brownish, but it is okay for a rear dash.

The next upgrade I'd like is the YI dash cam

The top-priced BlackVue dash cams and battery packs along with Go Pro 6 not sure I'd leave these displayed in my vehicle, but if you want to spend that kind of money those are top priced.

Look into getting 32 or 64GB sd card and a mount for the mirror, the Texas heat on sticker types or suction will take a toll, mine are suction based and fall off randomly.

You'll find tons of "best of" videos and really will come away more confused. They all do the same basic operations, some link with your phone which is good for showing police or insurance, some track your speed and GPS, so those extras come with a price.

Pro tip: If you're ever involved in an accident or witness to one with a dashcam, do not ever mention you have a dashcam, get the information needed and let the video speak for you to police or the insurance company only.

> I am planning on replacing all 4 door speakers, which I believe are 5" with 6x8 kicker cs series. Total cost for the speakers being $100.

You'd be far better off with 5.25" components, and spending your money on the fronts only to get better speakers. The Kicker CS are frankly pretty damn bad. Try these. You can run them off HU power for now and amp them later to improve the sound.

> I still have the stock stereo, and I'm debating on even replacing it, because if I do, I will lose my fuel economy button/readings. If I replaced it, I planned on replacing it with a Kenwood DPX502BT. It is amplified and I was told with the Kenwood amplifying to the stock amplifier then to the speakers that would increase total wattage to the speakers. I'm not sure if I actually need that, since right now with the stock blown speakers I can definitely turn them up past where I would ever listen to them already. So aside from having bluetooth, I don't see much of a benefit.

You can keep the stock HU and run a LOC to an aftermarket amp, or you can use an aftermarket HU and run straight to an aftermarket amp. Putting aftermarket speakers on the factory amp is a bad idea. There's too much built-in, un-defeatable processing on that signal that doesn't work right for anything other than the speakers it's meant for.

> Next I was going to put a cheap sub in there. There is a 8" bandpass sound ordinance sub on crutchfield for $100. Very good reviews on it considering the price point.

Please don't do that. This sub (dual 2 ohm) in a simple sealed box, or a custom ported box if you want to do a bit more work, would serve you much better. You also need a sub amp, which it looks like you haven't considered. This is a great budget amp. You also need a wiring kit, like this one.

You'll have to be thrifty @ $500, but I think you can put something together that sounds good.

• $250 - Small sealed sub and amp
  
• $250 - Two sets of component door speakers and 4-channel amp
  
• $100 - wiring kit, harness adapters, etc.
  
• $100 - cd deck with Bluetooth to pair your phone to.
  
  I have a 5-channel amp in my truck with 4x 75w (only using two channels here) and 1x 350 w for the sub. It's plenty loud. The 5 channel is nice for simplicity, but doesn't leave any room to grow if you decide you need a bigger sub or something.
  
  People talk about powered subwoofers on here once in a while, you'll find recommendations if you search. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/
  
  You might need to play with the sub position to get it to sound good in teh van (might resonate at some frequency in the back corner but sound better a few feet forward, etc. TBD. If you give it a few feet of cord, you can move it to the back fo the van when you''re listening to music ouside the back doors.
  
  These are affordable and sound good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/
  https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65
  
  

Dash cam are awesome! It's not just for accidents, but it can be use to capture cool, wires, etc stuff you see driving. Also neat if you drive through the canyons, tracks and such.

I live in a very hot state, so battery dash cam doesn't not work for me, had to get the super capacitor dash cam. Very happy with product and the seller!

Street Guardian SG9665GC v3 2017 edition + 32GB microSD Card + CPL + USB/OTG Android Card Reader + GPS, Supercapacitor Sony Exmor IMX322 WDR CMOS Sensor DashCam 1080P 30FPS (Best Of - DashCamTalk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0OJMYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_diBCybP8CG5KX

You won’t be able to see voltage drops normally, the amp may be getting voltage but not enough amps. Check continuity on the amp wire and make sure there’s not added resistance in the wire. Should be damn near nothing.

And I’ve always had good luck with the kicker kits and I’ve hear good things about the knukonceptz kits.

Normally when a client comes in to us and says that they have a amp cutting out and going into protect mode, we swap it with our shop test amp and sub, which is a kicker cxa 600.1 and kicker comp r 12” and we crank the shit out of it and see, if it cuts out with that system then we swap the wires and all is good, if it doesn’t we sell them an amp and sub.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gg.7Cb5PNTECF

Kicker PK4 4 Gauge OFC Power Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA6C1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fh.7Cb7E4TQZN

Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.

These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/

Best cam recommendations

Best value:

• A119 v3 ($110-120 USD)
  
• B1W ($47-55 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD)
  
  Best value Dual cams:
  
  
• A129 ($150-170 USD)
  
• A129 Pro Duo 4K ($250 USD)
  
• Thinkware FA200 2CH WiFi ($170-180 USD)
  
  Budget dash cams:
  
  
• Yi Dash cam ($50 USD)
  
• Rexing V1 ($100 USD) - Lipo battery
  
• Anker Roav S1 ($90 USD)
  
• Anker ROAV C1 ($73 USD)
  
• AUKEY ($70 USD)
  
• YI Nightscape Dash Cam ($65 USD)
  
  Budget Dual Cams:
  
  
• Rexing V1P Pro Dual ($200 USD)
  
• Aukey DR02D ($130 USD)
  
• Mini 0906 ($120 USD)
  
  Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-300 2CH ($290 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO ($260-360 USD)
  
• BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($430-591 USD)
  
• Thinkware Q800PRO 2K QHD ($380-490 USD)

I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.

I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233218&sr=1-1&keywords=pdx-v9

Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:

https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233136&sr=1-1&keywords=JL+TW3

The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.

Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.

For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.

A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.

A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.

I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.

Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.

This won't help you in your current situation but I highly suggest that EVERYONE get a dashcam for their vehicle... specifically this one. It's $60 and is designed for high temperature environments. I made a post just like yours back in May and someone suggested I get a dashcam... so I did. Luckily I haven't had any incidents since then but the peace of mind is well worth the $$$. Good luck getting this sorted out!

this is the dash cam I purchased for myself. It does not have a battery, so it only works when it is plugged in. I live in a place with really hot summers so this is the best choice for me. If you live in a place with moderate temperatures, grab the battery version!

The video quality is honestly better than what I paid for, although I did have to replace the charger after about 6 months I would recommend it to anyone, and even buy it again. All in all, it is a great investment that fortunately has only needed to give me peace of mind so far.

Grab the Monoprice amp from Newegg. $100ish. Great sound for price, mine died fast, but I'm in the minority there.

Grab a Modmic. $60ish. Absolutely fantastic.

And, the headphones themselves..... HD 599s. Decent price, good sound, absolutely atrocious looks. And a removeable cable.

You can upgrade all of this (except the modmic, that's basically perfect) for even better, but there's a good start.

I'm currently working on sourcing and testing all the "external sound cards" I can get my hands on (i.e., DAC/AMP with mic pass-through) but I don't have full data there yet.