(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical connectors

Sweet! I was thinking to go this rout.

The disconnect is so I can remove the battery every time I take the boat out of the water (to bring it inside for a trickle charger, which means both negative and positive need disconnects)


I found these: https://www.amazon.com/NSI-M-CBL-Block-IPL1-0-3B/dp/B008KNL7WE


Does this work like I'm expecting? Thanks for the suggestion about power distribution blocks, I'll take a look.

Here is a link to the product on amazon - https://www.amazon.com/URANT-Intelligent-Household-Appliances-Smartphones/dp/B017H0WK2Q

No problem. Take the hdmi cable out of the package. Strip about one inch of the black insulation away on both of the ends you cut. You should find 9 pairs of twisted cables. Fortunately they are color coded. Untwist the pairs. Strip 1/4 inch of the insulation off of each colored wire. Now using splice connectors put the corresponding end of each colored wire in the connector and compress it. Repeat for each wire. Now take some electrical tape and wrap everything. Don't be stingy on the tape. Should be good as new. You're welcome.

Yeah what the other guy said. 110. Can't believe I haven't seen one of these before myself.

Was expecting it to be some shitty token ring esq connector spec. But can meet or exceed cat five or CAT6 spec.

What is the use case for these connectors? Looks like online they are for connecting patch panels versus client to switch

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tel-Products-GB110-C6-4-Connector/dp/B005M1YQR0

you think these will work? https://smile.amazon.com/AlumiConn-Connector-Stranded-DoodleYolk-Inc/dp/B07HVLZPFR/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=alumiconn+connectors&qid=1562095476&s=gateway&sr=8-6

You could solder or use these. I've done LED lighting on vehicles and always use them.

> Do there happen to be any common PCB designs that takes 12V in and has 8 or more outputs I can wire each one of the motors to?

You don't need a PCB to do that.

Just wire all the '+' wires in parallel and all the '-' wires in parallel.

You can use splices such as T-splices. Here is a really clever dual splice.

Or, you can use a commoning bus bar. Here is a nice bus bar kit.

Have you seen round cables with these 2.54mm header pin connectors premade?

10pcs 2.54mm 4Pin-4Pin F/F Solderless Jumper Cable Wire Connector 10cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143YM5WO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jU32AbYQXMH9C

What sort of butt splice are we talking?

Are these even NEC compliant?
https://www.pacergroup.net/nylon-butt-splice-8-4-awg/

This looks to be underground only:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AWP7OG/

I was thinking more along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UKG81GO/

They are Gardner Bender push in connectors.

would these work?

so i wire the battery AND battery mount to the motor?

No, these are pigtail wirenuts, what I am looking is sold on Amazon but not lowes, home depot or any local contractor supply stores. https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Connectors-T-tap-Splice-Stripping/dp/B01M6E4WSS

Found this thing described as a "JST 2P 3mm Pitch EL Wire" on Amazon, though it doesn't really look like an "EL" series from JST. If you really wanted to know exactly what it is, maybe email JST and see what they say.

That's where you need to very carefully hand dig then. Just follow that wire and you'll find the ground rod. It may be up to three or four feet from where the wire goes into the ground, but follow the wire and you'll find it. Be careful not to cut or damage the wire!

EDIT: Also wanted to note that while normally they aren't buried very deep, they can be if they were put in before the home's foundation was backfilled. You also have the option of attaching your ground wire to the existing one above ground using a split bolt connector - here is a picture of one but it may not be the correct size for your ground wire; I'd buy one locally so you can return it if it's the wrong size: https://www.amazon.com/Morris-90316-Connector-Conductors-Number-6/dp/B005GDFQS2 Just be careful not to damage the existing ground wire while making the connection.

+1 on the don't cut any of those wires. It's a PITA if you cut the wrong one. I've installed stereos and remote starts since back in high school (it's how I made extra cash after school).

I always used these Solderless Wire Splice Connectors. Made life easy if you ever wanted to remove the system. You just clip the spliced wire put some heat shrink around it to avoid any shorting issues, and move on. Also provides a good place for the next owner if they want to re-add the option later.

Are you unable to pull any slack? Are there any termination points anywhere else? Do you have the ability to pull another wire?

What is the voltage? Gauge wire?

You could try a t-tap depending on those factors and your local regulations/codes, otherwise you might have to cut in the center, then attach pigtails to each end to get working length.

Tight boxes suck, no doubt.