Reddit mentions: The best faucet valves

This. After having so many of the zinc nozzles split open, it's nice to have something decent that feels like it will last forever.

I would combine it with a nice ball shutoff valve, ideally this one. Not cheap, but it'll probably outlast you and you'll feel good using it. (E.g., nice big solid brass handle -- compare to crappy plastic knob on Gilmour shutoff, painted to look like brass, that you know is eventually going to crack & fall off.) Check out the Amazon reviews.

If you ever get an opportunity to get a "water breaker" (basically the head off a watering wand, which is exactly how I got mine -- look for people throwing these out; head is probably still fine, just unscrew), this makes a good addition. You can screw this on to your shutoff instead of the brass valve and get a nice gentle spray onto newly planted beds or other delicate plants, while at the same time delivering lots of water.

Only about 90% certain this is the exact one I have in my 3-compartment (would also like in my pre-rinse machine sink), but a Chicago Faucet pre-rinse sprayer. It seems very water-conservative with a jet nozzle end that tapers to a slower end - not like a shower head. Think of a single wave of spray with the top end stronger than the bottom end. Very useful, IMO. Easy to clean, too.

I would keep away from tankless, given your location in the US north-east. The flow rate depends on the inlet temperature, so if you are trying to raise the temperature from 50F to 120F, your flow rate would be somewhere in the 5GPM range. If your inlet temperature is significantly lower, your flow rate with drop accordingly.
See: http://energy.gov/energysaver/sizing-new-water-heater

You can run your laundry room sink for a few minutes in the winter, and measure the temperature at the fixture. That will give you a rough idea.

The other issue is that some water heaters are actually set too low. 158F will kill Legionella bacteria almost instantly. 140F is a good compromise. You will of course need a tempering valve to bring the temperature back down to 120F at the fixtures. It may not be code in your area, but I prefer a tempering valve as opposed to an anti-scald valve. This is so you can adjust the temperature at the closest fixture to be 120F.
Typically the anti-scald valves reduces the temperature to no more than 120F at the water heater outlet. By the time this reaches the fixtures, the temperature might be down to 115F, which most people find too cool for showers.
The mixing valve I like is:
http://www.amazon.com/AM101-US-1-HONEYWELL-THERMOSTATIC-UNION-SWEAT-100-145F/dp/B002DGEOJC

You might be able to get away with a 40 gallon tank with the combination of a higher temp setting and a thermostatic mixing valve.

This seems to be the best compromise from a safety/cost point of view. Ideally you would have the water heater set to a minimum of 140F and then have anti-scald valves installed at each fixture, but for most consumers that is not practical due to the costs involved. (Sinks are easy, but showers and baths involve pulling out tile)

Hope this helps!

What do you want to know?

I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.

1. If you want to make serious quantities of water, and you don't have the patience of a saint, get THIS MEMBRANE and just keep the included 50gpd membrane as a spare. The dow filmtec membranes are the best you can get. They're the only ones that really produce anywhere close to their stated GPD rating. The 75GPD membrane is great too. Honestly it's just a more convenient, and longer lasting membrane either way. I've gone through a shitload of RO membranes. Whenever I need a replacement, the filmtec 75 is what I buy.
   
   
2. If you're installing it on a bathroom sink that has easily accessible male threading (after you remove the aerator), then get one of THESE. It's much easier to just divert the faucet water to your 1/4" tubing than having to detach and reattach the included plastic faucet adapter every time you want to make water. If you want to cut the faucet out of the picture altogether (my preferred method) then install a SADDLE VALVE straight to your 1/2" copper pipe (cold water pipe ONLY - never connect an RO/DI to hot water) and a SHUTOFF VALVE in-line between the pipe and your RO/DI's supply port. That's what I did today. Tapped into the copper pipe behind my bathroom sink; drilled a hole in the wall just above the sink and ran the tubing into the bathroom; installed shutoff valve there; drilled holes in undersink cabinet to accommodate supply, waste, and clean tubes; mounted the filter unit inside the undersink cabinet. Now I have a convenient on/off switch just above my bathroom sink. The tubing for waste and clean are coiled up between the cabinet and my tub. When I want to make water I just snake the waste line down my bathtub drain, pop my water sprayer in the tub and fill her up. No worries of spills/overflow. No hassle of connecting/disconnecting plastic fittings that are prone to thread strip.
   
   
3. Doesn't hurt to install a BACKFLUSH. This is the one 'bell and whistle' that I think is actually really useful. Especially if you have really hard water, It's good to flush heavy solids out of your membrane occasionally.

> https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/

Honestly I can swing $34 just fine if it saves me a week of landlord phone calls and maintenance appointments. Does this attach directly to the sink somehow? I'm super game to resolve this myself.

This is the one we got: https://www.amazon.com/Grohflex-Cosmopolitan-Function-Thermostatic-Trimwith/dp/B006K8HUF4

I also had to buy this to install it: https://www.amazon.com/GROHE-35026000-Grohflex-Universal-Rough/dp/B006K8HXNI

There are probably less expensive ones but we're happy with this one. Note that some valves which cost less and look similar are "pressure balancing" valves. They're definitely an improvement but not as good as temperature regulating valves.

So, not cheap. But the 50-year-old shower valves in my bathroom were beyond repairing and I would have had to replace them anyway.

This. Plus, you need to figure out what kind of hose bib to install. In cold areas, these are typically code:
http://www.amazon.com/Prier-P-164D14-Quarter-Turn-Anti-Siphon-Outdoor/dp/B00519RLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459284896&sr=8-1&keywords=freeze+proof+hose+bib

They prevent the pipe/valve from bursting if you forget to turn off the water in the winter. However, if you leave the hose hooked up to it when it freezes, it will burst anyway. I typically use these:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Valve-M76QT-Quarter-4-Inch/dp/B0052EKFAE

I always shut off my water in the winter, so I'm not worried about forgetting and bursting a pipe. The nice thing about these is that they are full 3/4" ball valves and have amazing flow. And, they don't wear out and leak like a saddle valve eventually will. You just need to make sure you shut off your water in the winter, and leave this valve OPEN. If you leave it closed, the water trapped inside the ball will burst the sides of the valve.

Since you've got hot water nearby, it might be nice to have it on the deck. In which case, you could get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Woodford-22CP-12-MH-Frostfree-Horizontal-Mount-Faucet/dp/B001R2CXLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459285207&sr=8-3&keywords=outside+hot+cold+faucet

Sounds like it might be a built-in shutoff setting. Some people (such as myself) use an in-line shutoff valve in the shower pipe to save water. You get yourself wet, shut the water off to just a trickle, then soap up. Turn the water back on to rinse off.

A shutoff valve is different than just shutting off the water, because you're still getting warm water delivered--just at a very reduced rate--and you don't have to wait for it to get warm again when you turn it back on.

Even when we're NOT in a drought, saving water is a sensible thing to do.

edit, do you mean 3/8" nominal Cu pipe or 3/8" OD Cu tube?

You can likely use something like this for 3/8" OD Cu tube.

http://www.amazon.com/00084-060604-Compression-Tee-Reducing/dp/B00C04VY40/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452542194&sr=8-4&keywords=3%2F8+1%2F4+reducing+tee+compression

then use a small piece of 1/4 tubing to connect the reducing tee to a valve

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-0995-4-Inch-Compression-Brass/dp/B008E33VA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452542253&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+compression+valve

If for some reason you have lots of money and want nicer products you can pick these up from Swagelok or McMaster-Carr instead of generic stuff from Amazon.

I think a 3/8" Cu pipe has an OD of 1/2" So you can just get a 1/2" compression fitting and use that instead of the 3/8" fitting:

http://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-90809-2-Inch-Compression-Reducing/dp/B00AZEOUBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452542716&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4+1%2F2+compression+reducing+tee

Why don't you throw the water down the kitchen sink instead of the toilet? That might make it easier. You can also just install like a 1/2 inch drain on it? Or use a cheap 20$ fountain pump maybe?

As far as filling it, just get a diverter valve for the sink. So you can keep it next to the kitchen faucet, where you can fill it, and drain it. (That was the first picture i found when i googled i'm sure u could get a cheaper one...).

You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).

However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/

Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:

• $60+ - Raspberry Pi for Home Assistant
  
• $45 - ZWave USB Stick
  
• $100 - ZWave Water Valve
  
• $90 - ZWave Heavy Duty Switch
  
• $30+ - ZWave Water Sensor
  
  That's already 3x the cost of the kit, not including your time to learn what you need to in order to get HA running & doing what you want it to.

Hard to tell from the picture but I think your water line is actually 1/4" compression, not 3/8". If I zoom in on the label I think I see a "4 c". The refridgerator lines I've seen are usually 1/4".

This valve will do it.
www.amazon.com/dp/B005QC1FC4


Make sure the water's off, cut the blue pipe nice and straight, then literally push the valve on. Unscrew the little nut off, and put your line on.

Everything is Moen, so the showers are 1222 Positemp cartridges, and the faucets are 1255 duralast cartridges. I don't remember the exact model of the sink faucet. (Quick searching on amazon, the Moen 6190 is very close to the sink faucet,) The shower valve body is the Moen 8371HD I'm pretty sure.

Where would the mop sink faucet's check valves be? On the spout? If that was the case the check valve wouldn't be able to stop the cross siphon condition wouldn't it? This is similar to the mop faucet. I assume the vacuum breaker is the center piece.

https://www.amazon.com/WaterCop-Z-Wave-Shut-Off-Actuator-Prevention/dp/B07C91B69P/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=zwave+switch+water&qid=1555101934&s=gateway&sr=8-16

pretty sure zwave works with home-assistant

Yes, but out of both taps in the kitchen. For instance:

Only hot valve on: hot comes out of both hot and cold tap in kitchen

This valve is what's installed at this point: amazon.com/gp/product/B001AI1VMW

This trim and cartridge will be installed after the tile goes in: amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHR3Y4W


( just want to be sure the water mixing and coming from both taps is normal before I do the tile )

Start at or very near the water meter. Generally for reasons having to do with maximizing available flow, a well built system will have a point of connection to the potable water service line as close to the water meter as possible. In most jurisdiction in the United States lateral line from the water main in the street leading to the water meter, the water meter itself, and up to a fitting just after the water meter called a "curb stop" will belong to and should only be messed with by the water purveyor. Somewhere usually just after that "curb stop" or "curb fitting", where the water service line to your house that you own and that is your responsibility is where the point of connection is typically made. And that is also the most logical location for a manual shutoff valve to permit servicing of the system without interrupting the potable supply to the home. Incidentally, in most jurisdictions this is also where an approved backflow prevention device is installed which prevents contaminated water from the irrigation system from flowing backward into the potable water supplying the home. These are typically in the form of either an above ground device such as a pressure vacuum breaker, or a reduced pressure backflow assembly, or a device below grade protected in an in-ground valve assembly box such as a double check valve assembly. They are normally very easy to spot and can also act as a service shut off.

A shutoff valve like this wouldn't be hard to fit and it's unlikely the landlord would notice until you're long gone. Which you shouldn't do of course.

https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/

lets you set the max temp by bleeding cold water into the hot.

these cheap ones don't have a back flow preventer, but you can do all the installation yourself using pre-made flex hoses.

-

i got a nicer one for my sink : https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Sparco-AM100-US-1LF-1-2-Lead-Free-Union-Sweat-Mixing-Valves-70-145F

includes back flow prevention, which can help avoid accidentally soaking yourself if you ever need to do maintenance and forget that your hot and cold water lines are now connected. the nicer ones generally use 1/2" FTP connections.

This is what I was going to recommend too.

Surprised they were able to bust them. I used this one and although they try they haven't been able to bust in yet.

I live downtown and they were using mine to shower with.

There's Water Cop, which looks pretty decent: https://www.amazon.com/WaterCop-Z-Wave-Shut-Off-Actuator-Prevention/dp/B07C91B69P

I'll probably pick that one up myself when I get around to doing some plumbing here in a month or two.

I put together this infographic to show my not-yet-finalized plumbing set-up. I'd love to hear any layout feedback/advice or things I may be missing...

A couple specific questions:

1. Should I incorporate an accumulator tank? How big a difference?
   
   
2. Is an outdoor inline filter enough for drinking water? Should I add a pipe strainer?
   
   
3. Should I consider water pressure regulator, water softener, etc?
   
   Here are the parts (*purchased):
   
   (A) Camco TastePURE (B) *Valterra Water Inlet Hatch (C) Shurflo 4008 Revolution Pump (D/S) *Class A Customs 30 gal (E/H/M) Sharkbite Ball Valve (F/G) Sharkbite Check Valve (I) *Eccotemp i12-LP (J) Sharkbite Mixing Valve (K) Suggestions? (L) Suggestions? (N) Suggestions? (O/P/R) HepVo Trap (Pipes) 1/2-inch Pex

Here is what you are looking for, it is a frost free spigot

You are missing a cap on top and the handle in the front.

https://www.amazon.com/Watts-0388002-Pressure-Vacuum-Breaker/dp/B001QYBNX2

You'll either need a plumber to put one of these on the side of the house, at least one foot higher than the highest head in the system, or, barring that, a slightly different and more expensive version known as an RPZ in the basement or the side of the house. It's required by code and will also give much better results than hooking on to a faucet.

I would replace that with an inline brass compression valve (with the water off, obviously). Make sure that fridge side has plenty of tubing for pulling it in & out.

If you want a buy-it-for-life shut-off valve, the Dramm brass valve is the way to go:

https://www.amazon.com/Dramm-114960-036434-Heavy-Duty-Shut-Off/dp/B000HHQAQY/

Just don't drop it on your bare feet or there will be lots of cursing.

So I've been trying to find something similar to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012BFNCJ2/ but that would accomidate my bottle washer & wort chiller so I wouldn't have to lose access my sink during washing & chilling. Does anyone know of a similar product or other option?

Try a brass hose bib:

https://www.amazon.com/American-Valve-M76QT-Quarter-4-Inch/dp/B0052EKFAE

If he already has a 1/4" copper line add one of these valves on it than a short piece of copper than a 1/4" compression Union than a refrigerator flex all done

http://www.usplastic.com/mobile/item.aspx?sku=58305&gclid=coijvmtn_80cfqgoaqodjj4g6q


Or this compression valve on the copper than a refrigerator flex from the valve to the fridge

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008E33VA6/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=411vX%2Bz8GDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&psc=1&refRID=0N8EMNKP16V290SCHRW2

You also need to buy this too

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQAQY/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy this Dramm shutoff valve and this Dramm water breaker nozzle and you will be golden. I used this on a farm where they had them for many many years of heavy use. The shutoff valve is heavy brass with a stainless steel ball valve. You will have these for the rest of your life.

EDIT: I don't work on that farm anymore but I have 2 sets of what I have linked above at my house. One for the hose in the front of the house and one for the back of the house. I wouldn't live without them. I also have a number of friends who have purchased this at my suggestion and are so damn happy not to have to keep replacing their crappy nozzles.

This is what we use at the greenhouse/nursery where I work to solve that problem:

https://www.amazon.com/Dramm-12353-Heavy-Duty-Brass-Shut-Off/dp/B000HHQAQY

Attach it to your hose end and then attach the water dispenser of your choice to the end.