(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best foam tape

since no one is giving suggestions on how to cable manage, ill help out.

use velcro straps to help run the cables along the posts going up the desk and entertainment center

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2CELM9CIVWUT3&keywords=velcro+straps&qid=1557866180&s=gateway&sprefix=velvro+str%2Caps%2C429&sr=8-8

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use cable boxes for hiding power strips and excess cables

https://www.amazon.com/Management-Organizer-Storage-Holder-Computer/dp/B07PP113P2/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=cable+management+box&qid=1557866240&s=gateway&sr=8-12

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if you dont want to use the boxes and have them sit on the floor, you could mount the power strip under your desk using 3m adhesive tape.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-VHB-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAQBPEM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3m+adhesive+tape&qid=1557866532&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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use these raceways for routing cables up walls, and for the power strip cables that need to go from the wall plug to the power strip

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Concealer-Wall-Cover-Raceway/dp/B01JKO8724/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1VQ606JNF5W8J&keywords=cable+routing+sleeve&qid=1557866311&s=gateway&sprefix=cable+routin%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

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and use these raceways to run the cables under the desk to your peripherals. cut them as needed to fit, or just make sure to leave gaps for the cables to leave the raceway and not sag

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Management-Organizer/dp/B07B7KZ6QT/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?crid=54G3BYAXU7AX&keywords=cable+raceway&pd_rd_i=B07B7KZ6QT&pd_rd_r=f21b5fae-9634-46fd-bd83-8c57b0d1a260&pd_rd_w=XEKi3&pd_rd_wg=EqTrq&pf_rd_p=5cc8abfe-8f78-4f34-b19f-d09d6ea0dca4&pf_rd_r=7K5F6REG3RC66ENZ8QG6&qid=1557866693&s=gateway&sprefix=cable+race%2Caps%2C192

I think you might have 2 options, depending on how the door is attached to the track. You could try to find a new set of wheels that typically attach to the top of the door, maybe some rubber ones instead of hard plastic or metal, not sure what you have.

Otherwise you had a great plan. It might be very difficult to install after the fact, but I did line one track with something like in the amazon link below, when the wall was open to make it softer, seemed to work ok, but have no long term testing (sold the house).

You might need a diff size:
http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-2253-Density/dp/B00005202X

Possibly. Personally, I would use something like "VHB" tape on the end of a stick. Not only do you avoid excess adhesive and cure times, but even a small piece can be pretty darn strong.

Jb weld. For when you want the bond to Outlast the things around it. If it can be "undone" you risk undoing it on the road.

There is a 3M double sided high temp VHB "red" tape that you could use, but your also not getting that off and it's pretty expensive.

Edit: 3M 4611 rated to 300F

It's just a really sticky tape to hold the pieces of plastic together. Something like this
or this.

Mechanical fasteners are also known as nails or screws :) Something that will hold the plastic up against the wall that isn't a glue or tape.

I followed this guide and made a chin mount for my Shoei GT-Air. You can substitute out the epoxy putty for something similiar like Instamorph or Sugru if you want. You can use 3M VHB 4991 Tape to stick it on. It's the same stuff Go Pro uses.

Hey Maalareve, we are the manufacturer for this Stock. We have started to add a small pieces of foam tape so customers can place them within the controller cup for a tighter fit and also protecting the controller.

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This is the foam we use. :

https://www.amazon.com/Pres-P8225RL00-50XOH-Neoprene-Foam-Black/dp/B01G382DX4/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=foam+tape&qid=1563994654&s=gateway&sr=8-15

like this one, I guess: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00HLYD4OC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1SFZSXDVQ31B9&coliid=I2WUPHEFABY3P

Ah, your concern was about the fixing. Which is a good concern. Considering they're fibreboard/paper tables. The large size bolt-like screws IKEA uses work because they've got such a big diameter. Regular 8g size range screws like to pull out of that stuff easy, leaving a nasty hole.

You can use screws. Get some plasterboard screws that have a large thread, and they'll probably hold. But personally I'd use double sided FOAM tape.

Get some decent sized (1inch plus) FOAM (foam is important, the thin stuff is no good, you need the foam to flex to the inconsistencies of the non-perfect surfaces) and use two strips along the entire length of the board. Quicker, easier, and will probably hold better than screws.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-T95540081PK-Double-Sided-Foam/dp/B001HT6QTW

You obviously don't need 36yds, but thats the stuff.

Hey I'm in a similar situation. In the process of setting up my van, need to order solar stuff today or tomorrow and will figure out composting toilet in the next couple of weeks.

I'm probably just gonna order all my solar stuff off renogy cuz that is the only one I hear/read about a lot.

You won't be able to run a heater unless you get several hundred watts of panels and several hundred 12V Ah of batteries. Having a fridge will already tax your system enough without throwing in a heater.

I think what I'm gonna be getting is two 100W panels, MC4 branch connectors to connect them in parallel since I have two panels, 10ft MC4 cables, I already have my 20A MPPT Charge Controller, tray cables to connect charge controller to battery, 100Ah AGM battery probably, I guess you need inverter cables between the battery and inverter, and then an inverter to power your electronics. I think somewhere in there you are maybe also supposed to have a fuse. Oh and I gotta get two sets up mountain brackets and use 3M VHB tape (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7H5W8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn) to mount the panels on the roof without drilling.

As far as composting toilet goes, Nature's Head is a popular one, but they cost basically $1000. I'm gonna try to build my own for probably a tenth that price. Haven't figured out exactly how I'll do it though.

For keeping light out/in the van, I got reflectix and some thick black fabric. I'm gonna I guess glue those together and attach some magnets on the sides somehow and they'll just stick to the metal of the van around the window.

3M mounting tape.


3M VHB 4936 Heavy Duty Tape in Gray - [Pack of 5] 1 in. (W) x 2 in. (L) Double Sided Tape Strip with Conformable Foam Core. Adhesive Tapes and Sealants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFRPYPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8wUwDbNKEW564

Here is the light strip

Here is the double sided adhesive I used since the 3M included with the light strip isn't too great.

I used 3M sheathing tape for my vapor retarder: https://smile.amazon.com/3M-Construction-Seaming-Tape-8087/dp/B00A7I5IP2/

3M VHB 4611 should work.

I've got some of this sitting around: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V5PC1L/

Would do the trick.

Lasko ceramic heater

if you want to do some basic weather stripping these work well

I don't know if you can fit these in the budget but my room was freezing before but after using the heater and sealing the small cracks that was letting cold seep in through I no longer get cold in my room.

For mine I used one of these screens, just connected with a right angle, thin HDMI cable running out the back of the computer into the graphics card. The HDMI powers it. I made a bezel for it out of an old DVD case. I made the mount for it out of an old 2.5" HDD bracket screwed onto the 2.5" SSD mount that came with the case. I'm using HWInfo for monitoring and using a rainmeter skin called SimplePerfMeters

I couldn't figure out a good way to attach it directly to the 2.5" drive holder, which is why I used two screwed together to give me a nice surface to attach it with double sided tape (this stuff)

Nice choice to start. I wouldn't have offered information about the lighting without being willing to share.

I found this LED srtip on amazon. The LED strip came with the controller box, the remote and the correct size barrel adaper. It is a 12V set up. But it didn't come with an actual power adapter so I found this one. Unfortunately, the adhesive that is on the back of the LED strip loses it grip to the strip. I removed the adhesive by hand an I used this tape, which is on the expensive side but I worked with it at an old job and it will not fail. You will also need a soldering iron, solder, and some 22 AWG wire.

Before I replaced the adhesive, I had measured out the strip into the lengths that I need and cut along one of these lines. You will need to remove rubber coating that is over the pads. I used wires to bridge the sections of the strip that needed to be spaced out. I also had the wire measured out to bridge the levels on the shelf also. I located the strip right against the front face of the shelves to hide it from view as you can see from the last image.

If there is anything else that you have a question about let me know. I will admit that it was a time consuming and a bit of a pain in the ass. But it worked out well.

I drilled a hole in the roof and ran them through there. Didn't consider for very long if I could feed them through the door or not. DIidn't immediately look like it, so through the roof it was!

I haven't anchored the batteries yet. This is a little bit halfway done honestly. I did the solar and the vent at the same time, and that took all day, so the mess of wires isn't permanent it was just a quick "Let's see that everything works mess" haha. I need to build the bed frame, for that what I'm gonna do is start at the rear of the wheel well and go forward, and then put a couple of boards up vertically so that the very back will be a space for our bikes, and probably have a board going horizontally over my tools and the battery shit.

The tan box is actually silver but appeared tan in the picture for some reason. It's a 1000W inverter with 2000w peak load. It's just a china brand since I'm broke.

As for price I'll add most of the stuff up here, but I might forget some small stuff I got from home depot or such.

Column A | Column B
---------|----------
Sikaflex | $13
Inverter | $160
Charge Controller | $20
Wires | $22
VHB Tape | $30
100W Solar | $170
2 Batteries | $200 + $18ea core
total | $651

I didn't really have any tools so I spent like $200 at homedepot/lowes on shit too. Including some wire, wire cutters, jig saw, zip ties, caulk gun, etc.