Reddit mentions: The best grommets

HERE YOU GO! :D

• Adhesive Zip Tie Mounts
  
  ( Example ) Does what it says on the tin. Is adhesive on one side, has a passthrough for a zip tie on the other. Useful for guiding cables along flat surfaces.
  
  
• Zip Ties
  
  ( Example ) They tie things. You have to cut them to remove them, but they're stupid cheap. Great anywhere that space is a concern, or anywhere next to a flat surface with mounts.
  
  
• Velcro Ties
  
  ( Example ) These are best for cables you might change frequently and places where a little bulk is OK. I use them anywhere the cables are hidden, but are coming apart but not away from the hiding surface.
  
  
• Wire Straps
  
  ( Example ) These are great in place of zip ties + adhesive tie mounts, because they're easy to open and can hold larger bundles, but not easily bundles as small. So, big sibling metaphor. Oh, and you don't have to cut them to change something.
  
  
• Stirrup Ties & Cable Staples
  
  ( Example ) These are basically the same thing, but the "staples" come with the nail in them, but stirrups can use screws. Great for routing single cables, like say, ethernet if it's not in the walls, up to the ceiling, and in the corners all the way to the router. Just don't damage your cable accidentally.
  
  
• Spiral Wraps & Sleeves
  
  ( Example ) These are great for bundles of wire that have to pass a good distance (1ft+) through someplace visible. Spiral of sleeve really depends on context, spirals are fine for all-dark cables, but mixed colors means get a sleeve instead.
  
  
• Raceways & J-ways
  
  ( example ): These often come with adhesive backs and you can get corners and intersections and basically hide cables inside a "tunnel" shaped like wall or desk. Oh, there are floor versions too. J-ways are usually just straight strips, but almost perfect for any desk with a vertical back panel.
  
  
• Plastic shoeboxes in a solid color (yes really) & "Cable Managers" & Cable Trays
  
  ( Example ) These are good for areas where lots of cables meet. Your surge protector, for example, should go in one of these (preferably the box kind, not the example), and they should be mounted to the wall. Otherwise they're most used for massive networking installations, IIRC. Cable trays are like this, but more open. Use them somewhere hidden, can take the place of loop sticks with longer or thicker cables.
  
  
• Loop sticks
  
  ( Example ) These are for basically, getting rid of slack. Or putting your earbuds in your pocket, but slack works great, especially tucked just out of sight with the rod zip tied to an adhesive tie mount.
  
  
• Grommets
  
  ( Example ) Now this is serious cable management, if you have a drill. Run your cables under the desk, until a central (or several small!) grommets to minimize their visual presence.

Full album.

We had an outdoor movie night earlier in the summer using a borrowed projector screen. It was entirely too small for the space in our garden, so I started to look around for something that would fill the space and collapse for easy storage. I got sticker shock and decided to just build my own with a budget of $50. Great for both indoor and outdoor use.

The original idea sketch is here. This is pretty much identical to the final product.

Step 1: Light blocking fabric for the screen. JoAnn’s sells cheapo light blocking fabric that works great. The spool width is 54”, so that became my screen height. I wanted a 16:9 aspect ratio at minimum so I purchased 3 yards of fabric (108”). I had a 40% off coupon so got all of the fabric for $12.60.

Step 2: I sewed 1” hems on the fabric for stability and aesthetics. I just used normal cotton thread. You may be able to skip this step, but I think you would run into problems later. The screen needs to stay in tension to provide a nice picture when you project on it and I was worried that the fabric may rip without the hem.

Step 3: Add Size 4 grommets (1/2” internal diameter) at equal distances around the fabric. I purchased this kit from Amazon for $8.67, and ended up using 16. Overall the kit was really easy to use. I cut small holes in the fabric using scissors since I didn’t have a hole punch.

Step 4: Make a frame using PVC pipe. I purchased four 1” diameter, 10 ft long pipes from Home Depot for $12.88 and fittings for the various connections, $8.91. I used a hacksaw to cut them then sanded the ends. I ended up with a piece of fabric that was 52”x100” after hemming. I wanted the frame to be 2” larger on each side so that I could pull the fabric taught. The final frame is 56”x104”, so I used the following cuts from the PVC:

• 4 x 50”, 1" PVC <-- 2 top and 2 bottom
  
• 2 x 54”, 1" PVC <-- 2 sides
  
• 3 x 20”, 1" PVC (from the scraps) <-- 3 legs
  
• Use the extra 1” PVC scraps for the feet
  
• finally, 1 x 54” from 1/2" PVC pipe (for the middle pole)
  
  Note: each connector adds an inch of length.
  
  At one point I had this set up. This is when I realized the middle bar needed to be 1/2” PVC to prevent a center line. Also I realized that I needed to use PVC glue on the top and bottom bar joints to prevent torque. This was a bummer because I wanted the screen to be fully collapsible. It is still compact, but the two long poles make it less portable. I used glue that was on hand and purchased a 10 ft long 1/2” PVC as well as two reducers for the middle joints, $2.52.
  
  Grand total for the frame = $24.31.
  
  Step 5: Attach with bungee cord. I purchased a box of mini bungee cords, which worked perfectly. I used two bungees through each corner grommet, so I needed all 20 bungees. $8.03. This step could probably be done more cheaply, but I like the convenience of bungees.
  
  Step 6: Invite some friends over to celebrate your birthday with beer, popcorn, and your favorite movie. ftw.
  
  Total screen cost ~ $53.61 This ended up being over my $50 budget, but I’m happy with the results.
  
  The test run was on a calm day (~ 5 MPH breeze) and there was no problem with the screen wobbling. If it were breezy, I would put weights on the feet and use eye-screws to run line from midway up the side to tent stakes in the ground.
  
  We used a basic projector and laptop and set up our Cambridge Soundworks 5.1 speakers around the yard.
  
  Very easy project with fantastic results.
  
  edit: formatting, clarity

I'm on my way to a very standard, but large, mason jar bubbler.

The Vision:

An attractive, safe, economical, easily cleaned homemade bubbler constructed from a handled mason jar. A piece that my friends might look at and say, "Neat!," and not, "What is that? Is that safe to smoke out of?" Maybe I'll even decorate the outside with some color...

Materials so far:

• 32oz Ashland Mason Jar with handle and lid
  
  
• 14mm Scientific Glass Downstem 6 inches
  
  
• Rubber grommets for attaching and sealing the downstem to the lid
  
  
• Old bowl (just a regular old 14mm male bowl)
  
  Hang-ups/Questions:
  
  
• I am stumped on the mouthpiece. I want something more attractive/finished-looking than a janky piece of tubing flopping about on top. I'm considering ordering some pipe stems as they're sure to be safe to pass smoke through, but then the question is how to attach and seal them to the lid. Also, will air flow through one of these narrow looking stems be sufficient to clear a piece just smaller than your standard Nalgene bottle? If anyone has suggestions for a mouthpiece other than tubing or wants to convince me that the pipe stem is a go, I'm all ears.
  
  
• Drilling. What's the best way to drill a hole through mason jar lids?
  
  
• Adhesives. What glue could I use to safely secure the grommet that surrounds the downstem to the edges of the hole through the lid? Or is an adhesive not necessary? I don't want any holes sucking air.
  
  
• How might I go about decorating the outside of a mason jar?
  
  Anyone who read this far, I commend you. Thanks for any assistance. This will be my first homemade piece besides a G-bong.

Yeah IKEA had great prices on them, but obviously there's plenty of other shops to get them at. For the wall mounts I used these bad boys from rockler

http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-steel-shelf-brackets-black-finish

The truth is, I ONLY used pipes because the far wall desk is drilled into the foundation of the house and the right side is tapped into studs because that wall backs up to my garage. If I had studs on both sides I wouldn't even think of the pipe legs. Those brackets hold a good amount of weight, but everything is only as strong as the weakest point, so the legs are there just in case. I'm also getting file cabinets and plan on building a small cubby to sit between the cabinet and the desk which will make the pipe legs a thing of the past. The corners where the two tops meet I bonded using one of these.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/USP-5-in-x-1-13-16-in-Nail-Plate/3374506

I then drilled holes for the wires and finished them off with these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I4OWQEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1494894211474

All in all I'm super happy with the design and how it came out. Don't forget to seal the counter tops with some clear polyurethane. Good luck pal.

Unfortunately, those minimalist tanks are all I have right now. It's really tricky to get the second grommet on if there is already liquid in the tank.

The tanks in the pic are totally simple. I had a few vivi nova shells laying around so I drilled a fill hole in the side, threaded the hole for the smallest screw i had, found those white grommets randomly and a pipe shop, and assembled. It's just a few components- carto, grommets, tank, screw.

To fill and refill, I unscrew the screw, which can be done by hand, luckily. I have a blunt tip needle filler that I use for this. Then I put the screw back in.

I would like to get a nice carto tank here soon, but i have yet to pull the trigger on a certain one. it's a tough choice with so many nice options.

I like being able to have up to a half dozen flavors, each with its own tank, to keep a variety of flavors at my disposal.

If you're interested in building some DIY tanks, polypropylene is popular because it holds up to any juice and won't crack. http://hoopsupplies.com/ is where I got mine. I got clear but they also have a variety of colors. http://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Grommets-Bore-Diameter-O-D/dp/B0040D0QKM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1369408397&sr=8-8&keywords=5%2F8+grommet these are the grommets I purchased. Enough for 50 tanks here.
I went to home depot, got the smallest, shortest screws I could find, which actually weren't all that small, and grabbed a threader from the next isle over. And that's it, other than the cartos. Let me know if you want any info I left out. It's really nice to have the parts around to build unlimited tanks. Like yesterday when I got six new flavors in the mail from Captivape....

Hi! I actually set one up. It's ghetto as hell but, here is what I did.

This little net is cheap on Amazon.

Then I went to Home Depot and bought a section of astro-turf for about $17. I had an old grommet kit so I put 4 holes about an inch in from the corners and grommeted them. I use old tent stakes to keep it tight on my lawn.

I stacked a welcome mat on top of a large cutting board and slid it under the Astroturf for a solid flat surface.

[Wiffle golf balls.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RFSTN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x2qRzbG1HV3QH)

I use a lid from a storage container tub as a ball feeder, propped up at the perfect angle by an empty 12oz LeCroix.

Creative lighting and my 60° Mizuno, the little Bose Bluetooth speaker for the Spotifies and I got a pretty fun night going on in my little back yard.

The result: https://imgur.com/a/SMfnQ

I'm also looking to build a custom desk and shelving unit in my office once it's refurbished; I'm by no means an expert but I have done a good few hours research into it.

I'd use a veneered melamine personally (at least 18mm thick). You can pick up some pretty large sheets and cut them down and there's a whole bunch of finishes to choose from.

I'd be inclined to fix as much batten to the wall rather than trying to make the desk freestanding - it'll help take the weight and make it a lot more secure.

Also, pick up something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007POFFYU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=479289247&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0050GEOU6&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=0DB39A6JVR17YGVBMQ85 for the cable cut outs.

If you're going to acquire some tools, you'll need a couple of workmates or saw horses; probably a circular saw and straight edge to make the long cuts; most likely a jigsaw if you're set on the curved edge; and also a drill to make the holes in the wall, pilots in the wood and then screw it together.

After that you'll need to apply the edge banding with an iron, sharp knife and sanding block. There are a tonne of YouTube videos demonstrating this, watch an hour of them before you try it.

Good luck!

A cleaner option would be to run the cables to jacks in the room, then run short cables from the jack to the TV. Otherwise you end up with a hole in the floor with a bunch of wires just coming through it. I actually have my coax and cat5 running through a hole in the floor, and it looks stupid. So I can't blame you for going the same route as I, but can recommend a bit cleaner solution. I would at a minimum pick up a grommet of some sort to run these cables through so it looks a little nicer, even if it is behind an entertainment center or something. It should also protect the cables from rubbing against sharp wood in the floor.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Caster-Wire-Organizer-Systems/dp/B004E3EEII/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1333463538&sr=8-13

If you are going to reuse the old dynamo, stick with one wire. I was mistakenly under the impression you were building it up with a new dynamo. Just check that the lights you have (if not the originals) can work properly with a grounded wire.

Grommets I normally just buy from Amazon. Wire from the local auto electrical or hardware (if they have an auto section), you can also buy it online, but typically it is going to be twin core. You could just run both cores and utilise only one.

If you are going to upgrade the dynamo, then an online bike shop is your best bet. I would save up and go for a hub dynamo over a bottle if you can wait, they are far (far, far, far.....) superior.

These are what I use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079N759Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gCM5CbDFBNKWH. They work well enough and I reckon they’re a good price. I also use a grommet kit to punch a decent hole in them to hang off my belt. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076Q95X7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tHM5Cb4CM3TY5 It’s also useful for other bits of kit to make a decent job of creating holes that won’t fray etc. Hope that helps.

My cabinet is negative pressure... I know less ideal, but designwise worked out better. I have an exhaust fan at the top and a 1” filter at he bottom filtering the incoming air.

I was thinking about connectors like you mentioned, but here isn’t an sfp one. I also though about one of those 3” brush grommets they use on server room floors.

Raised Floor Airflow Management 4" Round Floor Brush Grommet (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3Q7TW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0kkVCb6W9QBJQ

Something like that.

lol picked it ujp at my local smoke shop. and please dontjust start drilling away. you need special kinda drill bit id recommend using these or what ever size of downstem you are planning on using. i prefer 14mm or 18mm but 14mm being my go to choice. also i recommend using these instead of silicon to seal it off. just so u can take it apart to clean it.

Echoing the "No buttons" sentiment... but you can buy some grommets or a grommet set: http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Made-Products-1365-GROMMET/dp/B0000AZ81P ... that will let you add in additional points to be able to secure the tarp down.

You might add in a bit of structural hooking or whatever so you can loop through bungees and then punch in some new grommet holes wherever you want to get a tighter fit. Based on my limited experience with adding buttons and snaps to things, you won't get as tight a fit as you'd like compared to physically securing things with grommets, bungees and eye-hooks, especially for what you're looking to do. Just be careful (as well) that screws can eventually pull out if they're under stress, so don't poke holes in places you shouldn't be poking holes. ;^)

--Robert

Yes! Glad to hear I'm not the only one. Tupperware type containers have worked great for me on a number of simple outdoor low voltage projects. I do always make sure to use grommets where the wires pass through though.

Your real problem is that you are using satellite for performance scenarios like gaming. Migrating to an Ethernet cable will only have a marginal difference in your performance compared to wifi as long as you are concerned about internet performance. The real bottleneck is the satellite connection.

You can always run an Ethernet cable inside the home from one point to another:

• Go low: Tuck the Ethernet cable up against or under the floor molding as you go around the edge of the room. Staple, nail or pin down the cable to make it presentable
  
• Go high: Staple, nail or pin down the cable to the upper corner of a room as you move from one point to another
  
• Get conduit: You can purchase conduit to help run the cable in highly visible places for a cleaner and more professional look. Conduit can be fairly expensive so I wouldnt recommend wrapping the entire run with that material
  
• Drill holes: If you are the home owner and are comfortable with a little construction you can always create your own openings to assist you with moving through doors. Plug up the hole with the little caps they use for office desks to better manage the cables. I like to install conduit up to a hole above the floor molding, then finish off the rest of the run on the other side with conduit until i can hide the cable behind furniture.

Not sure why my links came out all fucked up? Too lazy to try and fix it.

His.

Monitors: [Dell S2716DGR] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149QBOF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Triple Monitor Mount: [EZM Deluxe Triple Monitor Mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JG7G2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)

Mouse: [Corsair Scimitar Pro RGB] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-SCIMITAR-Mechanical-Buttons/dp/B013KK9JOO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665487&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+scimitar+pro+rgb)

Mouse Pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)

Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)

Speakers: [Audioengine A5+] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OSR1C8/ref=twister_B00L3KRZS6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

Speaker Mounts: [Audioengine DS2 Desktop speaker stands] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005STCILC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Desk Surface: [Ikea EKBACKEN countertop 98in] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80274864/)

Desk Drawers: Haha who am I kidding everyone knows that those are!

Lamp: [IKEA Hektar lamp] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40349376/)

Cable Management

[Raceways] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EDVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s06?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Velcro zip ties] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Desk Grommet ](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MX5TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Cable clips] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075WWCN1K/ref=detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Pc build specs

Case: NZXT H440

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151

CPU: i7 6700k

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB

Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold

Power cables: Corsair custom sleeved in blue

CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52

Boot Drive: SAMSUNG 750 EVO 2.5" 500GB

HDD: 2TB Western Digital

GPU: EVGA 12GB Titan black

Hers.

Monitor: [Asus ROG Switft 34in ultra wide] (https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-SWIFT-PG348Q-3440x1440/dp/B01C83BE6U/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666082&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Asus+-+ROG+Swift+34%22+IPS+LED+Curved+QHD+GSync+Monitor+-+Armor+titanium+Plasma+copper)

Monitor Mount: [VIV duial mount] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUW5HDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Mouse: [Razer Naga Chroma] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Naga-Chroma-Programmable-Adjustible/dp/B01798WKTY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526666200&sr=1-4&keywords=razer+mmo+mouse)

Keyboard: [Corsair K70 Cherry MX Reds] (https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-K70-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01ER4B8C8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526665446&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair%2Bk70%2Bcherry%2Bred&th=1)

Mouse pad: [Razer Goliathus Overwatch Mouse Mat] (https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Goliathus-Overwatch-Mouse-Professional-Grade/dp/B01DXVKEJY)

Wireless Headset: [Steel Series 800 Wireless] (https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Lag-Free-Wireless-Transmitter-Surround/dp/B016YGMH9U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526665568&sr=1-3&keywords=steelseries+h800)

Speakers: [KRK Rokit 5 ](https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526666262&sr=8-1&keywords=krk+rokit+5)

Desk Surface x2 : [IKEA Linnmon] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39932699/)

Cable Management

Cable Rack: [IKEA Signum rack] (https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/)

PC Build specs

Case: Corsair crystal series 460X

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus IX Hero Z270 LGA1151

CPU: i7 7700k

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB

Power supply: Corsair RM series modular 1000W 80plus Gold

CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken X52

HDD: WD 1TB

GPU: GTX 1080 ti SC

If you're comfortable making holes in the wall, you can use the round desk grommets and fish them through the wall. You would just need a 2 3/8" hole saw for your drill and it makes for a clean, professional look. As long as the TV is staying there permanently, it's a good decision. I used a bead of silicone caulk to secure them, because gravity sucks.

Check this out: HYCC 2-3/8' Flexible Desk Grommet - Color: White - 5 Pack HYCC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNUY3UE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_XsI2Cb1K1D4NQ

2U Grommet.

Super simple, available in other dimensions as well, from multiple vendor. Should do the trick quite nicely.

Maybe these:

https://www.amazon.com/HYCC-2-3-Flexible-Desk-Grommet/dp/B01KNUY3UE

or these:
https://www.amazon.com/Midlite-SpeedPort-Universal-Through-Anchor/dp/B00I0JN4O2

I think you'll find that conduit is completely unneccessary if you're running the holes back to back, but if so take one of those grommets up to a home supply store and find some appropriate-width PVC to wedge between the two.

I've used both of those products for ceilings, furniture, and walls.

Good luck.

Large Hook Channel Cable Raceway - 1 Piece - 36" - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUV0QQM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

GBSTORE 25 Pcs UVB Plastic Kwik Clips Black Adhesive Backed Nylon Wire Adjustable Cable Clips Adhesive Cable Management Clips Adjustable Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GZX6G1W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

2" Black Desk Grommet Plastic Wire Organizer 6 Pcs | Computer Desk Cable Hole Cover Plug Cap | Great to Hide Cords & Cables through Office Desk, Entertainment Center, TV Stand, Workstation, & Tabletop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075P4H7F2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

AmazonBasics Premium Single Monitor Stand - Lift Engine Arm Mount, Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIBN16O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here u go man. And also get some velcro ties.

Good luck. Just occurred to me that you may want to consider a "desk Grommet" like this. I would wait until you're done with the hole and see how it looks. If your edges end up looking messy or you see a bunch of fiberboard, this will hide the edges:
https://www.amazon.com/Desk-Grommet-Plastic-Cable-Cover/dp/B076HJH2WQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1550704465&sr=1-3&keywords=desk+grommet
https://www.amazon.com/Desk-Grommet-Plastic-Cable-Cover/dp/B076HJH2WQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550704138&sr=8-3&keywords=desk+grommet

I usually just use an electrical grommet in the size of the drill bit I used for the hole. If you aren't sure of the size, you can get a multi-pack like this and try some until you get a good fit.

https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-AZGA125-Grommet-Assortment-Electrical/dp/B002X4AFL0

If you have a wooden desk, the Lepai amp has mounting hardware which can be used to screw the amp into the underside of the desk. It can be mounted towards the desktop's edge towards you off to the side so you can access the dials. Then, most of the speaker wiring will be under the desk and will come over the back or through a grommet to the desktop only where the speakers are.
The only thing is the amp will be upside down. I have that Lepai amp mounted sideways on a wall in my office. It's not that distracting. You just turn dials toward 10 to turn up the treble or bass.
For the headphones, I would suggest a USB DAC to have the headphone always hooked up, so you don't have to plug it in. Using a USB DAC makes the headphone/mic a separate output/input source. Then, you can toggle audio outputs and inputs using the windows speaker icon, or use Voicemeeter Banana or some other mixer, whether physical or virtual. I really like voicemeeter - useful for muting idiots on Discord and having both speaker and headphone on, etc.
Here are some cheap cable management things to help manage the cables under the desk:

1. cable clips or these cable clips
   
2. grommet drilling supplies if you have a wooden desk
   
3. grommets
   
4. Toilet Paper Holder screw one of these under the desktop and hang the always-plugged in headphone there.
   

I'm a big fan of the Chibi tank. They hold 3ml and come with Boge 3.0 cartos which is wonderful on a LavaTube at 4.8v. They're cheap anyway but you can build your own for about a buck apiece in materials. All you need is some polycarbonate tubing, grommets, a saddle valve, and a pipe cutter.

EDIT: DIY link to ECF fixed.

I was thinking the same. Maybe something like this

Yes, the rubber washer trick works. I purchased a variety pack of rubber washers from the local big box hardware store for about $10. Get a variety pack because you can hid them under the knobs and obviously each pedal may have different knob sizes. Plus then if a bigger washer is needed or you need to stack multiple sizes you got them.

Most of my pedals I was able to hid the washer under the knobs and you cannot tell the washers are there unless your looking for them. It obviously makes adjusting the knobs more difficult when you want to adjust them, but the knobs won’t move without a good amount of force. If you need a tighter washer on the potentiometer to make the knob tighter, requiring more force to adjust, just stretch the inside hole of the washer out prior to placing them over the potentiometer.

Like this variety pack


Edit: Added link to a similar product

Look at automotive or electrical supplies for a grommet that size. This is Amazon US, but it should give you an idea what I mean:

https://smile.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-AZGA125-Grommet-Assortment-Electrical/dp/B002X4AFL0/

It's a rubber grommet or wire ring. Normal ones are usually either always open in the middle or completely closed. I've found this one but I don't know if it fits.

Depending on the size of the downstem, obviously, you're gonna wanna get some rubber grommets with that size as its inside diameter. For example, here's what you would use for a 14mm downstem.

Also, talking to a few people I've found that these work well...

Danco #9 O-rings - http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-9-O-Rings-10-Pack-96722/100299667#.UdRhmvkUrEk

with

Vinyl Grommets - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040D0QKM/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00&tag=r601000010-20

Cal-Hawk AZGA125 Rubber Grommet Assortment Set Electrical Gasket, 125 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X4AFL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k7ldAb0H9Z4AJ

2" Black Desk Grommet, Plastic Wire Organizers, Computer Cable Hole Cover Plug Cap Insert(5 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJQP38Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.bMODbNV9G7QK

I am not sure where the list is. But I can pull up my amazon shopping and let you know in a minute

Edit: Tubing here
Grommets here
And O-Rings here

No affiliate link

• Diamond Drill Bits - These are the cheap, but use WD-40 or run water over where you're drilling and they'll last longer. Water 100% needed at least when drilling glass.
  
  
• Box full of Grommets - also lists all the ones in it. It fits most down stems
  
  
• Silicone Sealant - This is what I use as glue. It's industrial grade, and FDA approved as food grade within the temperature range of -70 to +400 degrees. Takes awhile to cure, is a little sloppy and stinky at first, but worth it. Requires a caulk gun.
  
  
• Cheap Downstem/Slide - I got this because it's good for $5 and comes with some rubber. Mine shipped broken, but I made it work. Really big hole so you may need a screen, and it also stays perpendicular to the surface you put it on, no angling it. Don't recommend for beer bottles unless you want to hit it at an angle.