(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hand files & rasps

This rasp is great for rapid wood removal and medium wood removal Diamond Nicholson Farrier Rasp File, American Pattern, Rasp Cut, Rectangular, 14-Inch Length https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004HW6AV0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This one is cheaper and only 1 type of teeth but is half round. Great value TEKTON 6695 10-Inch Half Round Wood Rasp https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPT6RU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don't know if those are available for you but I recommend them. You just need to make sure the tools you get don't leave any gaps in what you need your tools to do

I think the most obvious improvement would be to decrease the layer height because the layer lines are very visible, at what layer height did you print?

For Cleanup i use a file set like this https://www.amazon.de/B20206-Feilenset-Mini-6-teilig/dp/B00AF0KT9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536922382&sr=8-3&keywords=feile

But i must say it's a solid start already, good luck with further printing and running SKT! (Im starting it too atm, it's a really cool campaign if you ask me)

Yeah, returning it was my first suggestion. Oh well...

If you don't have a dremel, I agree that this is entirely fixable with a file or a small file set. Do you have a vise? That would make filing it much easier. If not, you can set it flat on a work surface (table) and put something heavy on top of it to hold it down and keep it from walking away while you're working on it.

Get a flat file, like this. You can use the edge of the file to "saw" into the material where you want it removed. Push with the file to make it cut.

Then clean up the rough edges with some 220 grit sandpaper and you're golden. 3mm steel will go super quick, easily less than 20 minutes for the whole job.

It does, however, look like the keyboard "foot" will overlap with the opening. It will be on the bottom, so as long as you don't care about that then no big deal.

This may seem odd, but it does actually fit, I assure you.


When I was a lot younger, my grandpa and I would work on models together. Well, when I was REALLY young, my job would be to hand him the pieces. But as I got older, I had more important tasks. Eventually, I would be working on my own model while my grandpa sat across from me, working on his.


He'd teach me about how to do this, and how to fix that, and when this happens you've got to quickly do this before that happens. Lol. So this set of files does truly bring back a lot of memories of him and me.


I wrote in another post, one about someone losing their uncle, about my grandpa and how hard it was for me in particular when he died. So maybe it's just that I've been thinking a lot about him since that first discussion. Not sure. But yeah, this, even though it appears odd, is definitely nostalgic.

A lot depends on what you want to spend.
Here's a cheap set on Amazon.
It would be good for someone who's learning.

Then there's this one by Narex that is sort of a middle ground.

Then you have Paul Sellers giving positive reviews to these two:
https://paulsellers.com/2013/07/aurou-rasps-good-on-the-wood-and-good-in-the-hand/

https://paulsellers.com/2016/12/a-rasp-by-liogier/

by Auriou and Liogier. Auriou is over $100 on Amazon https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=auriou

And Liogier are available through Lee Valley for about as much. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42524&p=70660

The more expensive ones have randomized patterns so you won't get stripes in the wood when you use them. Other than that, I don't know why they're worth so much more. I'm a noob myself.

watched the video you linked and on the next video he used a file to take off small amounts of wood from where the blade is held. i had only seen people use chisels on other videos so finding out there is a better way for a novice is attractive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rLfvCri7do @1:00

and this appears to be the tool he is using
https://www.amazon.com/Iwasaki-File-110mm-Flat-Extreme-Fine/dp/B003EU3JW4/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2/139-5915323-2555160?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003EU3JW4&pd_rd_r=d46f21b2-90de-4b35-bc78-8aa340d5a191&pd_rd_w=Ew43B&pd_rd_wg=LxGeB&pf_rd_p=479b6a22-70ae-47a0-9700-731033f96ce8&pf_rd_r=KV6S8E6Y13ZSQBNMH14R&psc=1&refRID=KV6S8E6Y13ZSQBNMH14R

im wondering if there is an alternative way to do this(aka cheaper. buying a 50 dollar file to use once on a cheapo plane makes me feel guilty). not sure what the tool is exactly called (float file? but nothing really shows up on amazon) and nothing else seems to be quite like it. the cabinet scrapers would be to big to fit inside i imagine

Thanks so much!

I do have a few questions, though. I was doing some reading on the sub before making my post, and I had seen some people recommending the Shinto Saw Rasp over the Stanley Surform Rasp (I assume that links to the correct one?). What's your opinion on the matter? I know nothing about rasps (Which I hope to correct) so I'm not sure what makes one rasp better than another.

Also, how does one determine what the draw weight of a bow that they've made is? Is there a way to alter it if it turns out it's too heavy? Again, I haven't read the books in full yet, but I just wanted to get that question out of the way while I was still thinking of it.

Are there any kinds of finishes that are more conducive to making a good seal on a bow that won't potentially affect it? (assuming that adding a stain or finish can affect the performance of a bow)

$10 diamond file for main shaping. This is kinda fine, you can find stuff closer to and under 100 grit. Hammer off the handle if you want to use it as a bench stone. This way you can really crank up the pressure, pressing down onto the file supported by a table or other surface.

Once you have fixed up your edges with the diamond file you can clean them up with any finishing stone. $55, 11 inch, monstrous, fine diamond plate

But really; a cheap, very hard, coarse stone from the hardware store will probably tolerate more pressure (cut faster) for the rough work you wanna do, but the diamond file should work well.

Might I recommend a quality draw bar knife? Maybe you could find a set, as they come in curved versions and such. A straight one similar to this one has done me well when making hand tool handle replacements:

https://www.amazon.com/Timber-Tuff-TMB-10S-Straight-Shave/dp/B002ASAB68/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2/140-8087829-7234207?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002ASAB68&pd_rd_r=c7eaf6f6-c0e6-4573-9d08-97f197753b2e&pd_rd_w=VnnsD&pd_rd_wg=zub9Z&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=2CB3N2JPFXM9GZCARSAM&psc=1&refRID=2CB3N2JPFXM9GZCARSAM

Edit: And a wood rasp set:

https://www.amazon.com/KSEIBI-311695-Carbon-Rubber-Quality/dp/B06XC6CTGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

Add some sandpaper and you'll be cranking out wood handle replacments.

If you're planning om using only brushes, then you should look up Quick kits on youtube. He uses enamel paints which are better suited for brush painting to get Good results.

I use Diamond files, those small ones that you get at the hardware store. They never wear out and and are cheap in the Long term. Also very precise. You also want a filler, I'd recomend perfect plastic putty. Works wonders and is removable with water. Good for small cracks that is present in all models, due to bad engineering or user error.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-24621-Diamond-File-Set/dp/B006X1CFTO

They are a bit more delicate but perhaps not exactly where you'd expect. Some of the bowls tend to be pressed or some other kind of meerschaum (like on Pioneer or Strambach calabashes, two popular brands) and as a result the bowl can crack or split, especially once it starts accumulating moisture.

Be careful about cleaning out the hole at the bottom of the meerschaum bowl... think about it in terms of engineering, if you push a pipe cleaner through there and it's blocked up and you have to use any sort of force, that force is going to push outwards radially from the central axis... you can crack bowls very easily this way.

Also if a pipe cleaner gets stuck in there, don't pull it away from the part of the bowl normally on the inside of the pipe. Push it through towards the part of the bowl normally on the outside of the pipe. (Though either way, you should not have used any force to get it in there in the first place.)

It's good to use everclear to clean out that hole, let the alcohol do the work rather than using too much pressure. Also, a very thin round line file can help too, since it basically lets you file the gunk out of the hole without applying a lot of pressure.

If you lay the pipe on its side after smoking, eventually the residue inside is going to start running up the walls of the gourd and hitting the cork, which can have two bad effects... wearing out the cork, making it eventually crumble so the pipe isn't airtight anymore, but also sometimes it can harden, gripping the pipe bowl to the point where trying to take it out results in you just ripping the upper meerschaum surface right off a heavily-smoked bowl. So, get a stand and keep your calabash there when not smoking it.

If you like the puzzle of it perhaps making bump keys would also interest you, mini file set with blank keys can be useful https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058EDUM8/

I wouldn't use dremel for such a small task. Always the risk of the bit jumping. Go for a small round file. $7-10 will get you a decent one. Don't need a handle for a small job like this. Creates a perfect round hole of the right size in minimal time, with actually pretty clean edges and finish. Wrap the same file in some sandpaper to get the desired level of finish once done.

Here is something similar to what I'm talking about TEKTON 6682 6-Inch Tapered Round File https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUL10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WmQDybSC78BE1

For files, it's the kind of thing where spending twice as much can really get you twice the tool. Remember single cut only cuts in one direction. Do not push and pull in a sawing motion. Push, lift, reset, push. A good file will last longer than you need it to.

Edit: you could also go for a triangle file if you want a really small choil.

I'll also note that a file can be much faster and easier than a knife in many situations.

A nice tapered round, Something like this can work wonders.

I just started using files to shape wood this week and it surprised me how easy it is. Now, I am shaping larger pieces but I would imagine smaller rasps or files would really help out.

Maybe someone else can give more information, but below are a few examples.

Detail Rasp Set

Small files

There is thread files that work great in this exact situation.

Something like this, I use nicholson files.

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-2573-3-Piece-Restorer/dp/B007TMEXTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549611112&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thread+file&dpPl=1&dpID=41PkNtbxjML&ref=plSrch

The mini's aren't too difficult to build, though I understand it can be overwhelming. There are official build guides (build.kingdomdeath.com). To get started on building you'll need 3 things:

• Plastic Glue
  
• Clippers
  
• Files
  
  You don't need those exact ones, those are just examples. The most difficult model was the Phoenix probably, but some, like the antelope, are only like 5 pieces.

There is hardness checking files like these:

TSUBOSAN Japan-Hardness Tester Checker File HRC40-HRC65 Set of 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TGHFLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mjRyCbZJK14KR

But it didn't make sense to spend the money on your case. If the knife feels right and keeps an edge, you win.

Thanks! So would something from this set be good?

What about using something like this?