(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best home automation devices

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

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You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


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For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

Remember what matters is the protocols that the hub supports.

I also like to think of some devices as 'accessory' or 'auxiliary' devices, which provide a function or connectivity to gadgets (like light switches, outlets, locks, etc.) versus 'main' or 'hub' devices, which serve to unify/centralize your accessory/auxiliary devices and give you a central interface.

Insteon is a little different, since it's more of an auxiliary device (since you need the Hub/Modem to communicate with Insteon devices), but the Insteon hub also tries to be a 'main' device--not that it's a bad thing. You can actually use this to your advantage and switch to an Insteon Modem to use your Insteon devices with other 'main' hubs like Vera and Smartthings.

Anyhow, the Wink 2 supports, Bluetooth LE, Kidde, Clear Connect, Z-Wave & ZigBee. You are not limited to the Wink-branded modules! You can get any Z-Wave module. That said, the Wink site pushes the Leviton DZC Series Z-Wave lamp dimmers, but you can just as well go with a different Leviton or a GoControl/GE/Linear.

That said, you may also want to double-check the web to ensure that whatever you get will work out of the box with the Wink itself. This site shows both of those I listed as working.

As for recommendations, I've heard good things about the Smartthings hubs as of late. Winks have mixed reviews, but I think most are happy with them, especially for an easy, 'turnkey' device.

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

So then I think a canopy control box will be your best option. It'll go up by your fan, between it and the power source and get controlled remotely. There aren't any super good options though, which sucks.

I think the best would be any old dumb RF fan remote plus a Bond, which is like a wifi-to-RF bridge that doesn't work with Homekit yet, but is supposed to soon/sometime (it curently works with an app, plus Google Assistant and Alexa). It looks like they've been promising it for a while now. This would be something like $40 for the controller plus $100 for the Bond.

Another option which may be better is this Hampton Bay Wink controller which is a smart canopy module, but you'll need a wink hub with it, or Smartthings with a custom device handler. This would be $35 for the controller (currently on sale at HD), plus $60 or so for the Smartthings hub. This would also open up the full range of zigbee and zwave home automation for you, which would be a strong option for future expansion and compatibility.

ST uses Zwave or Zigbee wireless protocols, for low power mesh networks.

Offhand, I don't know of any device that's purpose-built for what you want to do. That is, I don't know of a single battery powered, low-power zigbee/ZWave wireless device with a ready-to-go interface for an external switch, let alone a bank of them.

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1. Do you want it to be powered with a low-power battery? You could modify an existing device. In that case, I would suggest getting your hands on a Zwave remote with multiple buttons, and seeing if you can wire to that. I have one of these and it works well. But you'd not only have to physically modify it, you might have to generate a custom handler because the buttons have both tap and hold event generation.
   
   ​
   
   

2. I suppose you could also modify a moisture/leak sensor. But that's gonna be $25+ per channel.
   
   ​
   
   
3. If you can power it with 110V, you can use one of these. These are designed to be used behind regular wall switches. In this case you wouldn't hook their load up to anything, but the sense would be set to your switches, and they would generate events when switched. Again, $25 per channel or so.
   
   ​
   
   
4. As someone else suggested, use an arduino/other microcontroller. This could be a battery or wall-wort powered device, and you could easily have a dozen switches attached with extremely simple code and directly hooking up the wires, or you could expand to hundreds of switches with a shift register. In the grand scheme of electronic design, we're talking 2-3/10 in terms of difficulty. It's also possible to create a chargeable version that would probably last several days at a time.
   
   ​
   
   4a) If you go this route, I would actually look into a Particle Argon device (www.particle.io). These are basically suped-up arduinos but with all the server side network communication and rechargeable LiPo hardware built in. They are about as close to a plug-and-play version of what you would want as I can think of. $25 for the basic device. Note: There is a lower-power version that uses their own mesh network to communicate. But you would also have to get one of the Wifi versions to act as a bridge.
   
   ​
   
   4b) For and of the custom electronics/arduino versions, essentially what you need is something network connected that can make an http:// call, and the easiest way I can think to integrate that http:// call would be via WebCORE; you would create a webcore routine (called a piston) and you are provided with a URL that will trigger that routine. You would then add that URL to your custom code. The Argon device I mentioned above could do this, but also has hooks for IFTTT or other cloud-based services.
   
   4c) You should also look into ESP32s, which are another flavor of network ready Arduino compatible microcontrollers. However, if you plan to push any info BACK to your device (which you did not describe), this becomes a little more difficult for a novice. Also, I am not sure if there are battery ready versions. EDIT: Yes there are.
   
   ​
   
   Personally: I would go with the Argon, but if you are completely unfamiliar with arduino and how web services work, it may be a steep learning curve.

Until now, all Echos would use the internet to control smart home devices. So, if you have an original Echo and you want to control a Philips Hue smart light bulb, you need a bridge. The bridge has a radio that can communicate with the bulbs as well as wifi to connect them to the internet.

The Echo Plus has a radio built in that allows it to directly control some smart home devices that aren't connected to the internet. However, it only supports a single standard (Zigbee), so not all devices are compatible. Still, it should be a good starting place for people looking to dip their toes into home automation.

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

I recently bought and installed this relatively cheap zwave water valve controller. It's been installed for less than a week, but seems pretty solid. I've been considering using another one to automate a chicken coop door, and I think it would be effective to open and close a pet crate, though you'll have to figure out some modifications to the crate or build a linkage system yourself - could be a fun project!

There are smart controls for window A/C units with IR remote control

MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller Smart Home Infrared Universal Remote Blaster,One for All Control AC TV DVD CD AUD SAT etc,Compatible with Alexa and Google Home,No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH1X7PX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SV2pDbJY76JJR


atomi Smart Air Conditioner Adaptor, WiFi Thermometer Monitoring, Provides Smart AC Control, Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, iOS and Android, Control temperature from anywhere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ6BHMZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MX2pDbG6043GY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010ACFKNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6S2pDbBSTBKR9

Sensibo Sky (International) - Air Conditioner Controller, Wi-Fi, Compatible with iOS and Android, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU2YSR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gV2pDb1JNWVF2


Ambi Climate 2 Smart Air Conditioner Controller - AI Powered, WiFi Enabled | Works with Alexa, Siri, Google Home, IFTTT, iOS, Android | Auto Temp Control for Window Units, Mini Split & Portable Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BCPJP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hX2pDbWDXSG28


But using the nest sensor to control it, that's not possible. You could use another nest in the room and have it actuate a relay that tells a arduino or raspberry pi to send an IR signal to the A/C.....you can do all kind if things

a Combo device sounds awesome, and i hope i can find something like that. What about a Hubitate Elevation.

Yes my house has Neutral Wires.

Good to know on the Nest, as i had seriously thought about sensors, smoke alarms, and door bell from them. Looks like i will be staying away.

the pebble core sounds great https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/597507018/pebble-2-time-2-and-core-an-entirely-new-3g-ultra?anchor_link=core_for_hackers#h:core-for-hackers
just need some sort of Bluetooth or wired speakers with a mic to create an always-on dot

I hope to use the buttons like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K?th=1

I’m planning to do the same thing in a house I just started building.

My plan is to run some wire like you described (or more likely cat6) to where I want to put some motion sensors. Run 48v over it to a 5v buck converter and pir motion sensor. All that backhauled to a raspberry pi which will use MQTT to update my hub when motion is detected.

If you want something more plug and play (literally), you can get some of these plugin zwave motion sensors. I just got one a couple weeks ago to play with and it’s good. It also detects luminosity so when it’s dark you can put your lights on low, and when it’s bright, don’t turn them on at all. But since they’re zwave and plug-in you don’t have to wire anything or ever change batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q59PBZE/ref=asc_df_B00Q59PBZE5405680/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00Q59PBZE&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216516247812&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11709463841002654333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=200524&hvtargid=pla-355593595360

It actually goes by different names on Amazon (and I'm sure on ebay/AliExpress, too.)

The ones I found on Amazon go by these names:

MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller

YTF Wifi Smart IR Control Hub

Larkkey Smart IR Universal Control

However, it is my understanding they are all the same re-branded Tuya IR controller (blaster.)

2 options I’ve seen:

1. Hack it with this https://github.com/jimpastos/wink-relay-manager
   Allows you to send commands to the relays and detect button press through MQTT (no need for Wink)
   Then load up a browser and run a dashboard view on the screen (like HomeAssistant) to control other stuff around the house. Like brilliant.tech but You already have the hardware)
   
   
2. Replace with amazon fireHD tablet, and one of these surrounds with power converter:
   
   https://www.makesbymike.com/
   If you do away with the wink relay, you’ll want something inside the wall box to control whatever you had before. I used a dual in-wall Zwave controller like this:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-Version/dp/B07KQMGH7X
   
   And again as above you can build a dashboard, except with the fireHD tablet you can use Alexa, and see your cameras. Someone wrote a post here about using HA:
   
   
   https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wall-panel-fire-8-hd-tablet-lovelace-cch-mqtt-alarm-and-video-doorbell-on-ring/133561
   
   HTH

What I’d do is:

Mount a [smartthings motion sensor](Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor [GP-U999SJVLBAA] with Slim Design and Optional Automated Alerts - Zigbee – White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I4JQCb7N2BE5D) underneath and towards the middle of the changing table pointed straight down. The motion sensors work best when something “breaks” their beam, so having it mounted that way allows you to move your foot underneath it and turn the lights on by way of an automation.
If the led lights aren’t smart lights, then you would need a smart plug to use with them.

I have a mechanical pool pump
Timer too, I solved this by setting the mechanical timer to always on, and used one of these 20A switches in my fuse box closer to my property and zwave network to control pool pump on off via HA.

Saved messing about with zwave further from the home and fitting electronics into existing pool pump enclosure etc


https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=UEOOJ7S10THB&keywords=zwave+20+amp+switch&qid=1550839830&s=gateway&sprefix=zwave+20&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

These can definitely be found cheaper than this link so shop around.

I bought 2 outlet times for 13.99 on sale off of amazon, they were compatible with the Alexis(i don't use or have one but it's useful for some), but I programmed it once through the app and it keeps the programming saved on my phone so it doesn't loose it's information if the power goes out. Timer does not buzz or making any noise really and I've had them over a year now.

If you have a z-wave hub, the Hank Z-Wave button is awesome. Super long battery life, program it to do whatever you want, reasonably compact. https://www.amazon.com/Hank-Controller-HKZW-SCN01-SmartThings-handler/dp/B0799S3764

Yeah for DD2's spine. Maybe that will help DH when the time comes to evict her.

Have you considered something like the below for the TV and lamp? You would probably need 3, 1 for the TV, one for the big lamp, and one to turn on a nightlight. https://smile.amazon.com/Outlet-Required-enabled-Control-Gosund/dp/B074576LSB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539618635&sr=8-3&keywords=home+automation+plug+sockets (Disclosure, I know nothing about these, I just see them in my Big Box Home store.)

You may want to follow up on the heavy leg with her and log a call to here PCP. The "heavy" part could be a blood clot.

You want either the HomeSeer HSM200 or the EZMultiPli multi-sensor. They're both the same product, but re-badged. I have one in my master bath, and it works great. It reports motion, temperature, luminosity, has a multi-color LED, and functions as a repeater/extender.

My fav Z-Wave motion sensor is the ecolink (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQXXG0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Out of all my zwave motion sensors these are by far the best motion sensor I have. Only 'down side' is the detection range is sort of large for my rooms so motion is triggered from hallway when walking by.

Pros:
- Fast triggering

- Very long battery life (running same batteries over a yr now)

- Has never needed tinkering with after setup, very stable and reliable

​

Other Z-Wave motion sensors i have, ordered by best to worst imo:

- Aeotec multisensor 6 (3x) best multi sensor option imo but burns battery fast (~1-2months) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

- Fibaro Motion Sensor (1x) works great most of the time, but every few months it freaks out and constantly triggers motion and needs to be removed and re-added to network. prob bad unit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KOGDETI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

- Mono Price multi sensor (2x) very slow motion sensor detection, scan freq is low and afaik unconfigurable. bottom barrel option imo, do not recommend as motion sensors but do ok w/ temp / humidity / light but lite measurement is in a weird scale vs other lux sensors i have (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRYFE90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Is this what you have?
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-458489-Hue-Bridge-Frustration/dp/B014H2P42K

And if so what kind of lights? Ideally I'd love to wire-up most of our lights to it including the ones with wall switches. Also how do you interact with the lights via Echo? Can you say "Turn on Living Room Light" for example? Or can it work with zwave outlets?

Wait so are you saying that a USB connection and 5V pin is enough to power the motor I am buying? Cause I noticed I can just connect the USB port into a wall so it's no less convenient than plugging in the 24V power supply I just bought. It would make things a lot easier and cheaper for me actually.

On a side note, I found this :

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Conwork-10-Pack-Female-Extension/dp/B01G6EANPU/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=5.5%C3%972.1+Female+Power+Plug+arduino&qid=1555367847&s=electronics&sr=1-9

and this :

https://www.marginallyclever.com/product/55x21-female-power-plug/

They both seem to maybe help me do what I need. But also I have one of these from my kit:

https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-Supply-Arduino-Solderless-Breadboard/dp/B01LCL6K0O/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5.5%C3%972.1%2BFemale%2BPower%2BPlug%2Barduino&qid=1555368165&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1

Can I just use that?

There is a little device that pushes a button based on Bluetooth. https://microbot.is/push/ I use it to warm up my Breville Barista Express in the morning. It works pretty well...

​

Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-2nd-Generation-Automation/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=microbot+push&qid=1554752827&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Three hardware solutions that I know of:

1. Flic smart button.
   
   (This links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
   
   More info [here.] (http://flic.io)
   
   
2. Satechi Bluetooth Button Series (Media Button.)
   
   (This also links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
   
   More info [here.] (http://www.satechi.net/index.php/satechi-bluetooth-button-series-media-button)
   
   
3. Lutron Pico Remote Control for Audio (requires Caseta Smart Bridge, which I already had installed, for my Lutron "smart" light switches.) More info here.
   

Hey,

Thanks for the reply.

I've been looking at getting broadlink remote for a while:
https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B0742CXGHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=broadlink+rm+pro&qid=1567927324&s=gateway&sprefix=broadlink&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A3SP0XK4HMPKQQ&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE2TFBJUFpHRFpTTlomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMDM1NzhTNUVNSTNTVFhFM1EmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDI5NDY4MDNBUUFLRTI2NkhYOVgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Can't find anything much better for price but open to suggestions.

Just not sure how to include switcher in a sequence. I think it would be weak link in the system.

I wish there were smarter switchers out there.

The true cost of this thing includes paying for a plumber to install it, unless you can turn off the water mains from the city/county and are comfortable cutting open the main supply pipe to your house. There are z-wave alternatives that are substantially cheaper and do not require a plumber - for example this one. This controller (and there are others very similar to it) mount on a levered ball valve on the outside and have a z-wave controlled motor that moves the lever between open and closed positions. When paired with Aeotec flood sensors, you can assemble a system that's much cheaper than the Leaksmart at the discounted price and does the same job.

I've been trying to find something like this for my apartment, but the one in the link doesn't quite fit my needs. Ideally I would find a similar product (smart blinds motor that can be fed a beaded metal chain) that would (1) be controllable via Amazon Echo, (2) work faster/more quietly, and (3) be cheaper. Echo compatibility is a must - the rest would just be gravy.

ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay Switch Module, Z-Wave Relay

Used it to give circa 1990 fan/light smart capabilities, as-well-as voice control via Amazon Echo. Used Westinghouse 7727000 48-Inch Down Rod Wire Extension Kit to extend leads.

I ran across these the other day. A bit pricey though

AXIS Gear - Smart Blinds For Your Smart Home - DIY Home Automation - Powered by ZigBee + Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSM8QY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXi2DbYCWEGFG

Yes. You need three things:

An Apple TV 4k, iPad, or HomePod

One of these:
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMbsDbWY8DV71

And either need to run homebridge 24x7 somewhere in your house on a computer, or get this:

LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HObsDb3PB0G0S

I spent a while yesterday looking at smart buttons and think I've settled on getting a couple of those. I'll place one in the basement by the door and the other I'll either just give to my FIL to put in his car or fasten it to something by the garage door. I'm going to program the lights to automatically turn off after 10 minutes or so as well.

This is the button that I'll probably end up getting, unless I can find something else with good reviews and cheaper. (I'm not sure how I feel about ordering a Xiaomi.)

I think the easiest solution would probably getting a one of these and a compatible charger like this one I think.

The FTDI programmer can supply power as well but it might not be enough if you make use of the Wifi stuff.

Could easily do this with a /r/esp32, though if you DIY it on a devkit and add a battery, it'd be closer to the size of a pack of playing cards.

I've been playing around with doing something similar using a Fibaro FGMS-001 ZW5 Motion Sensor. It lights up a colored "eye" when it sees motion, you can set the color via Z-Wave.

So far I haven't had much success -- the Fibaro is a battery-powered Z-Wave device and likes to sleep when no motion is seen, thus it doesn't always get the update message telling it to change colors.

This is the one I have:

Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor [GP-U999SJVLBAA] with Slim Design and Optional Automated Alerts - Zigbee – White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS

If I have the app open looking at the events it's basically instantaneous. Definitely fast than the older gen one I have. Hard to give a good estimate on responsiveness for turning on lights because I have Caseta lights which are unfortunately cloud to cloud connected with SmartThings and not local, but even that is still fast enough for me. If you have zwave switches I've heard it'll do that processing on the hub itself so it should be pretty snappy.

Sorry if the formatting is weird, I'm on mobile.

Not cheap but lots of uses beyond this. Also it does work with rocker switches:

MicroBot Push (2nd Generation) - Wireless Robotic Button Pusher for Smart Home Automation (Platinum White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N0lFzbR507G5C

Too perfect??? Read the reviews on different shops... A lot of people are complaining that it is not pairing, bad batteries, no support, etc.
On amazon 38% gave it a 1-star, 12% gave it a 2 star. So 50% is unhappy with it... http://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K

So I don't necessarily have an answer for you in terms of the lock type, but you can control RF devices with your phone or voice using something like the Broadlink RM Pro

I've got 4 of these Hank Z-Wave Plus One Button Scene Controllers. Love 'em. Rechargeable, goes 1 year between charges.

https://www.amazon.com/Hank-Controller-HKZW-SCN01-SmartThings-handler/dp/B0799S3764

I’m in the same situation as you but I have 8 minis throughout the house.

I’m leaning towards IR blaster like this one with temp controls in each room.

I’m curious, why are you avoiding the cloud connections?

Like an idiot, I wrote everything out below before I fully read your post. I'm not sure if a 50% would be possible with the below set up but it would make the shades 'smart'.

This should help you out. I'm in the process of testing everything out for my basement (working on finishing it now). I already received the Broadlink RM Pro and got it working with some remote control outlets. When I receive the shade motor, I'll let you know if I have any difficulties. Also, this video should help with some difficulties people have with the Broadlink.

I found Axis Gear on sale for $165. it's like 80 bucks off

When I bvought mine on sale last year it was $200

https://www.amazon.com/AXIS-Gear-Automation-Powered-Bluetooth/dp/B07KSM8QY3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2L36CTAML3G9U&keywords=axis+gear&qid=1563211747&s=gateway&sprefix=axis+gear%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2

Presumably it is because your older MyQ is not WiFi enabled. I have two 2015 installed Liftmaster MyQ openers and purchased this MyQ Home Bridge and now I can operate and check the status of my openers from my Apple devices.

Editing to add: Native Homekit support through above linked device, homebridge not needed.

NA? Nambia? Northern Australia?

If you mean North America I got mine off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-FGMS-001-ZW5-motionsensor-Multisensor-FGMS-001/dp/B01KOGDETI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fibaro+motion+sensor&qid=1574087383&sr=8-4

It looks like there is a 3rd generation that is actually cheaper. I wonder why it's cheaper?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=psdc_6478740011_t1_B010NZV0GE

Zooz Z-Wave Plus Gas/Water Valve Control ZAC03 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKCPEHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ToLqxbYBT7A47

I found this if anyone else is looking for something like this.

Yep! Broadlink RM Pro $38
https://smile.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B0742CXGHY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510083258&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=broadlink%2Brm%2Bpro%2B2017&th=1

I use a Linear switch PS15Z-2 which does this and is fairly cheap. It can handle 15 amps so I run a heated blanket and things like that, plus its pretty cheap. The only downside is it's fairly large compared to some but hasn't been an issue for me.

I got this for around $35 LINEAR FS20Z-1 Z-Wave 20-amp Isolated Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gdP7Ab0GT8M0T

It's a bit of a DIY setup, soldered it to an old PC cable I had. Plugged it into the same outlet as the garage door opener and mounted it on the same bracket. Also got an Ecolink garage door tilt sensor for about $24.

I don't use location services, not sure how reliable or quick to respond they are. But my setup is great for auto closing at night, and sending me actionable push notifications if I leave it open during the day. Also made an IFTTT widget so I can open with my watch.

Last question I swear .... Which one of these is better. I don't mind the price difference but one seems available everywhere (cheaper one) and the other I can only seem to find from that one place...

One

Two

If you have an indoor junction box, then you avoid environmental issues and locate the switch indoors. There are a few high current solutions - Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch (40 amps) is one, Linear makes another. You can control it with an outdoor Z-Wave temperature sensor.

I've got the same problem in my main room. I hooked up a Flic to a couple LifX bulbs and it works great. (Have the Flic connected to my previous smartphone that I leave plugged in the closet on wifi)

https://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K

https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Adjustable-Multicolor-Dimmable-Required/dp/B01KY02MS8/ref=sr_1_1?s=boost&srs=12034488011&ie=UTF8&qid=1486764495&sr=1-1&keywords=lifx

Well, there’s actually a bridge that Chamberlain sells that makes that hub HomeKit compatible. I believe it’s around $80US. I just already had Homebridge up and running for other devices around the house.

Edit: LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9CXtDb3978B62

Amazon has the same pricing - 5% if you use the store card.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2P42K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_tJpzwb0ZW10WQ

Amazon has available here

https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8

This is an example of what you could use. I don't know the amperage of your device, so I went big. There are other brands and models. This will allow you to turn it off and on and set timers, but you will not be able to control the temp output.

You don't even need that. You can get a Z-wave button pusher, setup an automation for it using a suitable home hub, and then simply have the Echo Dot activate the button when it hears "Computer -- tea, Earl Grey, hot".

Price history

I have not found a cheaper one. I would totally grab it!

I do have this in a watch list: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q59PBZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_htEzDbHGWFTVD


and this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VXZ5JN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0tEzDbBAMZZK4

Maybe this could work somehow? https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-Wireless-Automation-Platinum/dp/B071V7Y864?th=1

IFTTT integration so you could use with ST

I use the Sonoff S31 flashed with tasmota. If you can’t solder you can flash these OTA with a RaspberryPi.

https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Required-enabled-Control-Gosund/dp/B074576LSB/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550533623&sr=8-5&keywords=tuya+smart+plug

LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bqy1Cb7R9DK00

https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-2nd-Generation-Automation/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=microbot+push&qid=1554752827&s=gateway&sr=8-2

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The guy below had already posted one so I didn't think I needed to

Does it have a remote? https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Controller-Hand-free-Compatible-Controlled/dp/B07L9VV9N8/ Might work then.

Correct - the [819LMB](LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7).

There’s a separate item to make the my q
[homebridge addon](LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RCXtDbZPR8G2V)

How about a home automation hub with outdoor motion sensors/door sensors? You could probably set something up for about $100-150 depending on how many sensors you wanted, and would have lots of future expansion capability for having it turn on lights with motion detected and such. The Samsung hub is Z-wave and ZigBee compatible, which means there are literally hundreds of sensor options.

Samsung Smartthings Hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_arlPDb3JDT1QG

Z-Wave Plus Motion Sensor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQXXG0I/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_6slPDbE5CV2CQ

Honeywell Outdoor Door Sensor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00683AMTW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_6vlPDb2CGEXHF

Then all you need is the SmartThings hub. It’s about $65.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=smartthings+hub&qid=1566963025&s=gateway&sprefix=smartthings&sr=8-3

Smartthings motion sensor also does temp. You could add an automation that turns of the heat if a temp is equal or below a set temp or same for AC. It's battery powered so you could put it anywhere. It would require a smartthings environment.

Motion Sensor

I didn't see anything either with a quick look.

Not sure if this would fit into your outlet box, but there are "contact modules" that are 20A. You probably would have to have a double gang box with a blanking plate over the controller.

https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=sr_1_58?ie=UTF8&qid=1500953560&sr=8-58&keywords=z-wave+outlet


This looks similar to what I am thinking you would do. https://community.smartthings.com/t/garage-zwave-relay-switch/1176

I use the SmartThings branded one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS) with no issues at all. You can't get much more "native" than that! It can also operate and be a part of local automations.

>me, that for less money, than what the smartthings hub costs, I get a hub and a speaker in one. What is the downside? Would I be able to use IFTTT or the smartthings app with the echo hub

Interesting. The one in your link is ST Hub V2, and I was talking about V3, but V3 in amazon.de is 199 EUR. :-(

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=smartthings+hub&qid=1554739116&s=gateway&sr=8-1

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Frankly, If I was you, I would connect a Z-wave water shutoff just AFTER your main manual shutoff. These things are a bit too pricey to have everywhere, nor should you need to use one everywhere.

Some Amazon links

$429 or [$129] (https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-Z-Wave-Water-Valve-inch/dp/B006KU10ZI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473890371&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+water+shutoff) or $59

Looking closer, It appears that the 59 dollar one can be retrofit over a quarter-turn valve, which actually is pretty darn cheap and amazing, though I wouldn't trust it to be "sturdy" enough for permanent use or anything.

I would additionally attach one to your main natural gas / heating oil line, Again a second shutoff directly after your main manual shutoff. If ever your water heater that springs a leak, you're gonna wanna shut that off as well due to dangers of heating an empty heater. If electric, that means a relay or something to shut that off.

I honestly cannot think of automation that would be so necessary other than a flood sensor. Some of these ads you see on TV where the kids left the sink running are frankly ridiculous and unnecessary.

Edit: Wow, I only read the headline, thought you were only looking for plumbing advice. Light switches are a must, everything else is a good idea, but remember if you don't have an idea for it right now, its kind of wasted money. There are all kinds of things that aren't frankly necessary. (As in a outlet that can be toggled via zwave. If its gonna be on all the time, there's no need for it.)