Reddit mentions: The best home automation modules

We found 173 Reddit comments discussing the best home automation modules. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 43 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. BOND | Add Wifi to Ceiling Fan, Fireplace or Somfy shades | Works with Alexa, Google Home | Remote Control with App | Works with iPhone or Android

    Features:
  • CONTROL CEILING FANS, FIREPLACES, AND SOMFY SHADES FROM YOUR SMARTPHONE - BOND turns remote controlled fan, fireplace or Somfy shades (does not support garage doors) smart in seconds. Activate the fan, control fan speeds, and switch on lights—all from your iPhone, Android phone, tablet, Amazon Echo, or Google Home Assistant. With BOND, you’ll be able to use these smart devices to do whatever your remote control could do.
  • ALEXA AND GOOGLE-CERTIFIED - This device is certified by Amazon and Google to work with Alexa and the Google Home Assistant. Control your ceiling fan with voice commands. You’ll never need to reach for the light switch or the remote again. Controlling a ceiling fan and fireplace has never been easier!
  • CONTROL UP TO THIRTY CEILING FANS - A single BOND can control up to thirty ceiling fans from one central location. The BOND can record and transmit RF (radio frequency) as well as IR (infrared) signals, so it will work regardless of what kind of remote you have. The area range is about 2,500 sq. ft. so you’ll be able to control fans in other rooms or on another floor.
  • NO INSTALLATION NEEDED - Set up is extremely quick and easy. Simply plug in the BOND device, download the app to your phone, point your fan remote at the BOND, and you’re done! All of the functions on your remote—including fan speed, light dimmer settings—can now be controlled via the BOND.
  • SMART HOME FUNCTIONALITY WITHOUT BREAKING THE BANK - Everybody wants devices and appliances with smart home functionality, but many of these products are extremely expensive. With BOND, you can make your old appliances smart without replacing them. Our software currently supports ceiling fans and electric and gas fireplaces, and Somfy motorized shades!
BOND | Add Wifi to Ceiling Fan, Fireplace or Somfy shades | Works with Alexa, Google Home | Remote Control with App | Works with iPhone or Android
Specs:
Colorblack
Height1.1 Inches
Length3.8 Inches
Weight0.45 Pounds
Width3.8 Inches
Number of items1
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5. ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay Module, Hidden Smart Switch, 120-277VAC, 10A Per Relay, NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED, ZWN-RSM2-PLUS, Black (New Version)

    Features:
  • Enerwave Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay is the most advanced and customizable module you can add to your existing appliances and lights. Module can be installed in wall boxes behind switches and outlets or in ceiling boxes behind ceiling fans or chandeliers. Hidden relay allows you to use original switches and decorative wall plates
  • Remotely turn your appliances (lights, fans) on and off from an internet-connected smartphone, tablet, or computer. Program Z-Wave relay switch in scenes, groups, and associations. Dynamic scheduling and control from anywhere. Z-Wave hub required
  • Z-Wave Plus, featuring 67% improvement in range, 250% more bandwidth, Over The Air (OTA) firmware updates. Backwards compatible with existing Z-Wave devices
  • NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED; 120-277VAC, 10A maximum load per relay. Not compatible with security panels such as Honeywell Panel, NORTEK (2GIG) Security & Control Panel. ETL-listed, FCC compliant. Dimensions: length 2.03” x width 1.72” depth 0.62”; 1-year warranty
  • Get into IoT with the best home automation device. Connect your Z-Wave hub to Alexa or Google Assistant for full voice control. Compatibility with Alexa, Google Assistant, or IFTTT is dependent on the Z-Wave hub that is installed
ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay Module, Hidden Smart Switch, 120-277VAC, 10A Per Relay, NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED, ZWN-RSM2-PLUS, Black (New Version)
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height0.62 Inches
Length2.03 Inches
Width1.72 Inches
Number of items1
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20. X10 XPPF Plug In Noise Filter - Use to Control Line Noise for X10 Home Automation Items Only

120 VAC @ 60 Hz5 AmpFor USA Use only
X10 XPPF Plug In Noise Filter - Use to Control Line Noise for X10 Home Automation Items Only
Specs:
ColorBrown
Height2.5 Inches
Length4 Inches
Weight0.25 Pounds
Width2.5 Inches
SizeStandard
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🎓 Reddit experts on home automation modules

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where home automation modules are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 20
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 11
Number of comments: 9
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 10
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 10
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Home Automation Modules:

u/laboye · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Remember what matters is the protocols that the hub supports.

I also like to think of some devices as 'accessory' or 'auxiliary' devices, which provide a function or connectivity to gadgets (like light switches, outlets, locks, etc.) versus 'main' or 'hub' devices, which serve to unify/centralize your accessory/auxiliary devices and give you a central interface.

Insteon is a little different, since it's more of an auxiliary device (since you need the Hub/Modem to communicate with Insteon devices), but the Insteon hub also tries to be a 'main' device--not that it's a bad thing. You can actually use this to your advantage and switch to an Insteon Modem to use your Insteon devices with other 'main' hubs like Vera and Smartthings.

Anyhow, the Wink 2 supports, Bluetooth LE, Kidde, Clear Connect, Z-Wave & ZigBee. You are not limited to the Wink-branded modules! You can get any Z-Wave module. That said, the Wink site pushes the Leviton DZC Series Z-Wave lamp dimmers, but you can just as well go with a different Leviton or a GoControl/GE/Linear.

That said, you may also want to double-check the web to ensure that whatever you get will work out of the box with the Wink itself. This site shows both of those I listed as working.

As for recommendations, I've heard good things about the Smartthings hubs as of late. Winks have mixed reviews, but I think most are happy with them, especially for an easy, 'turnkey' device.

u/rawditor · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

This is a really cool idea! Once you have this working you really need to post a "How-to", I think a lot of people would like something like this for their driveways. You could even have your speakers say "car entering driveway" or something when someone pulls up. Anyways, for the how-to (source, I'm an electrical engineer but 'non practicing', so I'm somewhat good with this stuff but not an expert):

I believe the door sensor works by sensing when the loop of wire is closed, vs having a contact voltage applied to it. You can test this easily by just touching the two terminals together with a piece of wire, and seeing if it properly triggers. If this is the case, you may need to incorporate a small relay into this project to close the sensors together. To trigger the relay, you could use the voltage from every time the LED is triggered.

You'll need a simple voltmeter if you don't have one already. These are very cheap and helpful to have around the house. Here's one that's cheap and seems to get good reviews. Use this to measure the voltage across at the LED when it's 'on'. If this is 5V-12V, you can use this relay which is for simple arduino projects, and is controllable via TTL signals.

You would connect the + and - terminals on the back of that relay board to the power supply in the driveway module you have. That provides power to the relay board. The, figure out which pin is driving that LED (the line will go from 0V to 5V when it triggers), and connect a wire to the 'S' pin on the back of the relay board. Now, when the LED changes to the on position, it will also flip your relay 'closed'. Simply connect each relay output terminal (front of the relay board) to the door sensor, one to each side. Now when the relay closes, it should also trigger your door sensor.

Hopefully this makes sense... let me know if you have any questions and good luck! Soldering is not all that hard once you get the hang of it. Just remember that you're trying to heat up the components metal contacts, and then apply solder to that (vs applying solder iron directly to the solder). This prevents cold contacts, which can break overtime.

u/autoneub · 1 pointr/homeautomation

No dice so far... The thing is just super inconsistent to register button presses...

Ended up buying the RGBGenie zigbee remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KBF9GMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HrVRDbMSDWM3H
So far I'm really happy with it! Once binded (bound?) the on/off and dim/brighten buttons work beautifully. Haven't figured out the color wheel yet but the remote itself feels really well built. Plus it has a nice little magnetic mount so it just clips on. That was a nice surprise as I didn't notice that in the listing.
Highly recommend!

u/deplorable-d00d · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Something like the Yamaha RX-S601 will work fine. Not "cranking" loud, but will be better than that Marantz

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-S601BL-Receiver-Black-Aluminum/dp/B0148NKOT6

The best solution is to use a controller/pre-amp in the space you have (no heat issues) and use two dedicated 2 channel amps hidden away somewhere - but that could easily go above your budget.

u/SirEDCaLot · 2 pointsr/smarthome

A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.

In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.

Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.

If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.

Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.

I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.

End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.

Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.

You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.

u/ultralame · 1 pointr/SmartThings

ST uses Zwave or Zigbee wireless protocols, for low power mesh networks.

Offhand, I don't know of any device that's purpose-built for what you want to do. That is, I don't know of a single battery powered, low-power zigbee/ZWave wireless device with a ready-to-go interface for an external switch, let alone a bank of them.

​

  1. Do you want it to be powered with a low-power battery? You could modify an existing device. In that case, I would suggest getting your hands on a Zwave remote with multiple buttons, and seeing if you can wire to that. I have one of these and it works well. But you'd not only have to physically modify it, you might have to generate a custom handler because the buttons have both tap and hold event generation.

    ​

  1. I suppose you could also modify a moisture/leak sensor. But that's gonna be $25+ per channel.

    ​

  2. If you can power it with 110V, you can use one of these. These are designed to be used behind regular wall switches. In this case you wouldn't hook their load up to anything, but the sense would be set to your switches, and they would generate events when switched. Again, $25 per channel or so.

    ​

  3. As someone else suggested, use an arduino/other microcontroller. This could be a battery or wall-wort powered device, and you could easily have a dozen switches attached with extremely simple code and directly hooking up the wires, or you could expand to hundreds of switches with a shift register. In the grand scheme of electronic design, we're talking 2-3/10 in terms of difficulty. It's also possible to create a chargeable version that would probably last several days at a time.

    ​

    4a) If you go this route, I would actually look into a Particle Argon device (www.particle.io). These are basically suped-up arduinos but with all the server side network communication and rechargeable LiPo hardware built in. They are about as close to a plug-and-play version of what you would want as I can think of. $25 for the basic device. Note: There is a lower-power version that uses their own mesh network to communicate. But you would also have to get one of the Wifi versions to act as a bridge.

    ​

    4b) For and of the custom electronics/arduino versions, essentially what you need is something network connected that can make an http:// call, and the easiest way I can think to integrate that http:// call would be via WebCORE; you would create a webcore routine (called a piston) and you are provided with a URL that will trigger that routine. You would then add that URL to your custom code. The Argon device I mentioned above could do this, but also has hooks for IFTTT or other cloud-based services.

    4c) You should also look into ESP32s, which are another flavor of network ready Arduino compatible microcontrollers. However, if you plan to push any info BACK to your device (which you did not describe), this becomes a little more difficult for a novice. Also, I am not sure if there are battery ready versions. EDIT: Yes there are.

    ​

    Personally: I would go with the Argon, but if you are completely unfamiliar with arduino and how web services work, it may be a steep learning curve.
u/MAscooby · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I have a MyQ with Liftmaster openers, so I haven’t tried this but if you’re willing to use Aladdin Connect then it looks like you may be able to tweak the settings via the Lowe’s IRIS app, then use a Homebridge plugin to add it to HomeKit.

EDIT: I really don’t know if that’s possible without Aladdin in the mix.

This might be another option (maybe else someone can verify):

BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make your Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart through WiFi | Works with Alexa, Google Home | Remote Control with App | Works with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/

Bond Bridges support RFs between 300 MHz - 434 MHz, but I’m not sure if they can support garage doors yet. It works well for my ceiling fans though.

EDIT: Homebridge plugin here: https://www.npmjs.com/package/node-iris-aladdin-connect-garage-door

EDIT 2: It also just dawned me that Bond does not support HomeKit natively yet. It can be made to work with some Homebridge plug-ins, but I doubt that would help with the garage door problem.

u/s_i_m_s · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Yes but how do I fit two switches where only one was before and without running another 3 way switch wire?
Is it as simple as getting a dual rocker switch like https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Single-Pole-Decorator-Combination-Residential/dp/B075KJMSP3 and a couple of relays like these https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8 ?
It seems like an overly complicated solution to me and i'm not even sure if it would work.

u/Kairus00 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

u/0110010001100010 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

>From what I am reading I can just buy a Z-Wave USB stick and use it on the PC that is hosting HASS?

Yup. I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

>Are there zwave switches that arent a physical switch?

How about just getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/

>Are there any zwave relays?

There are, though I'm not aware of anything 12v.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU/

>Any ideas on how that can be accomplished?

No idea on this on. I'm sure it's possible with HASS. At the very least you can call and external script to make said announcement. You might ask out on the forums, they have a good community: https://community.home-assistant.io/

Cheers!

u/WakiWikiWonk · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I think it is great that you decided to learn soldering and to learn it right.

I am a certified military and NASA soldering instructor. Feel free to message me if you get stuck anywhere (I usually check Reddit once a week or so, so it may take a few days to get a reply).

Here are some practice projects to build up your skills:

Through-hole: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRSFJ4B/

Surface mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPSRXJ0/

And here are some great videos:

Soldering Tutorial Part 1 - Tools: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ

Soldering Tutorial Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

Soldering Tutorial Part 3 - Surface Mount: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE

How To Setup An Electronics Lab For $300: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HicV3Z6XLFA

Soldering Irons OLD vs NEW: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scvS2yeUH00

Pace ADS200 Soldering Station Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXL-pWD44pc

World's Cheapest Soldering Station - Yihua 936: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GdV7XBae74

The Pace ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KY58984/ ) is better than the Hakko you have chosen, but that Hakko is a fine tool. I would say the Hakko is 80% to 90% as good as the Pace for less than half the price.

u/matthewbregg · 1 pointr/Nerf

Are you talking about this relay https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/?

Yes, it needs it's own power.

I'm assuming your buck converter is 5v out? If so, you've got a perfect power source for it! Hook up the gnd/vcc to the buck.

The signal pin is good with any logic signal from 5v to 12v. (Although reviews report 3v works as well to trigger!).

Note for the motor, you can't just use common, and NO. You need to use normally closed (NC) also, and apply motor braking to the pusher in order to get good results.

This is why I advised just using a raw relay with no PCB for this case.

With a raw relay, you'll have 5 pins.
C, NO, NC, coil pin, coil pin.

The two coil pins go directly to the original +/- wires coming from the motor wire.

Since the regulator circuit is already expecting to drive a fairly heavy inductive load, I'd expect it to have 0 problems with a tiny inductive relay load. (Aka, no need for flyback diodes on the coil pins).

Then just wire the motor up to the relay such that when the coil is energized, the motor is going, and when not energized, the motor is braking.

I haven't done that myself, but I've heard reports that the above methods works well.

If you don't understand how to wire a motor to a relay such that when the coil is energized, the motor runs, and when the coil is not energized, the motor brakes, please do ask.

u/DancingRuggles · 2 pointsr/diyelectronics
  1. buy a different solenoid. There are variable voltage ones out there like 3-12v but you will most likely run into the wiimote not supplying enough current to push both the solenoid and rumble motor.

  2. (best option) Use a relay to trigger the 12v off of the 5v rumble if the wii mote rumble is a full 5v pulse/pwm (probably is). Then, use any number of rechargeable 12v battery, 8 1.5v AA eneloop rechargeable batteries, or 3x 14500 lithium ion batteries (11.1v total but would usually be 12v and same size as AA batteries) for the solenoid.

    Items:

    https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay

    If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
    https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay

    and

    https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery

    or

    Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
    https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA

    and

    https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder
u/bobgodd2 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If you're intending to draw heat back down, I'm assuming you've reversed direction on your fan? If you reverse direction it shouldn't really feel chilly below.

You can accomplish what you desire with any of the various forms of automation out there. Probably smart things (don't know since I'm not a user), definitely home assistant or node red. Just need to set an automation using either the ecobee as the trigger, or a temp sensor somewhere. You should be able to put the temp sensor somewhere out of visibility. You can control the fan with a smart switch, or something like Bond, which would enable you to use Google home or Amazon Echo to control the fan as part of the automation.

BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make Your Old Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart Through WiFi | Works with Alexa and Google Home | Remote Control with App | Compatible with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Fd7Bb17X33BJ

It's a bit pricey but can control up to 6 fans and you don't need to see it since it will talk to GH or echo over wifi. They go on sale from time to time also.

u/creed_bratton_ · 2 pointsr/arduino

It's pretty simple if you use a 5v relay. You can think of a 'relay' like a light-switch that can be turned off and on with a digital pin on the arduino. You will actually hear a mechanical 'click' when you trigger it.

So you can use a 5v relay like this one to control a 12v power supply like this one.

And then wire it up with your light like this.

​

Let me know if you have any questions about how to use the relay properly.

u/belly917 · 1 pointr/zwave

Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.

If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.

u/Superflytb9 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Currently controlling Honeywell thermostat with Alexa. Single zone

The purpose of my question is to cool the bedroom(s) at night and let the rest of the house be warmer. I just don't want to drop the cash required for a 4 zone system.


If I wired on or off electrical dampers with something like:

Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IMYhzbYEXKF1J

Couldn't I simply close off all areas I don't need cooled. I would imagine someone smarter than me could set up a web interface or IFTTT that could reference wifi temp sensors to command av on off based on which dampers were on or off.

u/ShameNap · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I’m planning to do the same thing in a house I just started building.

My plan is to run some wire like you described (or more likely cat6) to where I want to put some motion sensors. Run 48v over it to a 5v buck converter and pir motion sensor. All that backhauled to a raspberry pi which will use MQTT to update my hub when motion is detected.

If you want something more plug and play (literally), you can get some of these plugin zwave motion sensors. I just got one a couple weeks ago to play with and it’s good. It also detects luminosity so when it’s dark you can put your lights on low, and when it’s bright, don’t turn them on at all. But since they’re zwave and plug-in you don’t have to wire anything or ever change batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q59PBZE/ref=asc_df_B00Q59PBZE5405680/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00Q59PBZE&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216516247812&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11709463841002654333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=200524&hvtargid=pla-355593595360

u/King0fK0ng · 1 pointr/SmartThings

This is my favorite solution so far. My only reservation is having a dependency on SmartThings to shut off the fan, versus the timer switch.


Would it be possible to use a Z-Wave Micro Switch and keep my physical timer switch?


My thought is that if everything is working (SmartThings), then the automation would start the fan and shut off the fan. But for any reason, if my automation/smartthing, isn't working, everything still acts normal via the physical timer switch.

u/dabbydabdabdabdab · 5 pointsr/smarthome

2 options I’ve seen:

  1. Hack it with this https://github.com/jimpastos/wink-relay-manager
    Allows you to send commands to the relays and detect button press through MQTT (no need for Wink)
    Then load up a browser and run a dashboard view on the screen (like HomeAssistant) to control other stuff around the house. Like brilliant.tech but You already have the hardware)

  2. Replace with amazon fireHD tablet, and one of these surrounds with power converter:

    https://www.makesbymike.com/
    If you do away with the wink relay, you’ll want something inside the wall box to control whatever you had before. I used a dual in-wall Zwave controller like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-Version/dp/B07KQMGH7X

    And again as above you can build a dashboard, except with the fireHD tablet you can use Alexa, and see your cameras. Someone wrote a post here about using HA:


    https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wall-panel-fire-8-hd-tablet-lovelace-cch-mqtt-alarm-and-video-doorbell-on-ring/133561

    HTH
u/massahwahl · 1 pointr/esp8266

Wow! Hold up... no dis intended. I admit I am struggling to see your vision here but i dont mean any personal insult at all.

​

>Hue doesn't run an esp chip. Coin cell motion sensors don't run esp chips. This forum is about esp chips and among other things extending their functionality in interesting ways.

​

I only brought up hue and the motion sensors (I actually DO use motion sensors connected to ESPs for this btw in 3D printed cases that hang nicely on my wall and can be interfaced with my home assistant server but thats beside the point I suppose) as an alternative because the ESP does not seem like the ideal use case here in terms of making a combined...thing. Im still hung up on how it would be efficient in a socket adapter however your comment maybe brought up that we are possibly not talking about the same thing. You mentioned in your other comment that Sonoff made a socket adapter and no i had not heard of that so i went to look and i see THIS being called a socket adapter but what I have been picturing is THIS so maybe we are not discussing the same thing here.

​

Adding the sensors at the outlet level would make a little more sense to me but I would still question how to find a right balance for triggering the PIR sensor to turn the light on as depending on what room it was in there could be a lot interference with that from normal foot traffic, furniture, etc that I would worry would get in the way. Also temperature sensors are usually mounted on the center of a wall in a central location in the room to maximize the chance of getting an average temperature for the space. Putting it at the floor level would make it less accurate since it would likely be cooler or warmer closer to the floor depending on the house but that would be very dependent on the location.

​

EDIT: Nevermind found THIS. I was not aware Sonoff made these.

u/On_Your_Marc_ · 3 pointsr/googlehome

I bought a house with motorized blinds operated by a remote control. I purchased a Bond smart home device to control my ceiling fans. It basically replaced my remote.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_mBPBCbST25VJ5

It works perfectly with Google Home. The next thing they're adding is motorized blind control. It's a solid device that's as easy to set up and use as any of my smart lights and I can't wait to control my blinds with it.

u/devfonzie · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

I use a Neurio energy monitor. It does a decent job of tracking energy consumption (including my MS). There are other home energy monitors on the market that I haven't tried.

Note: Neurio "Intelligent Home Monitor" is additional add-on on top of the hardware.

Edit: link added.
Neurio W1-HEM Home Energy Monitor (North American Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bj1IzbJEVFZCH

u/LosValleyRes · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

OK got it. I hope you don't mind all my questions. Hopfully this is the last of it.

I have amazon prime so is this close enough to your link above: https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Module-Arduino-Official-Boards/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474495841&sr=8-1&keywords=5V+to+12v+relay

Also, what end would I connect the 5v to trigger the other end 12v?

Thanks again!

u/Yespinky · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

you could airways 'borrow' one, and program something like this (I have 4 of those fans, and all can be controlled with one Bond unit and app). or search for "universal rf ceiling fan remote" on eBay or elsewhere. Good luck!

u/strdg99 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

1626-10 Filterlinc (Alternately X10 XPPF Plug In Noise Filter) on appliances with motors, heaters, battery backup, etc. Also, having a lot of X10 modules can also create issues.

Of course, by the time you spend the money for that, you'd probably be better off upgrading to the latest Insteon modules. Good luck.

u/UQMNHwL · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I have a mechanical pool pump
Timer too, I solved this by setting the mechanical timer to always on, and used one of these 20A switches in my fuse box closer to my property and zwave network to control pool pump on off via HA.

Saved messing about with zwave further from the home and fitting electronics into existing pool pump enclosure etc


https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=UEOOJ7S10THB&keywords=zwave+20+amp+switch&qid=1550839830&s=gateway&sprefix=zwave+20&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

These can definitely be found cheaper than this link so shop around.

u/kat_filf · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I bought 2 outlet times for 13.99 on sale off of amazon, they were compatible with the Alexis(i don't use or have one but it's useful for some), but I programmed it once through the app and it keeps the programming saved on my phone so it doesn't loose it's information if the power goes out. Timer does not buzz or making any noise really and I've had them over a year now.

u/dimming1987 · 2 pointsr/HomeKit

I use the Bond Fan controller. It’s not HomeKit compatible yet but the company has said its coming soon. It works well with Alexa to control speed and lights. You would need to have remote control modules in each fan but they are reasonably priced ~$20 per fan.

https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Ceiling-Instantly-Amazon-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1516833372&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bond+home&psc=1

u/Nosnibor1020 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

So I just found this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_of_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6PCH57G7MYJCP1PFDJ8M

There are a bunch of different brands and sizes on Amazon.

Basically I think you could put that inside the fan electrical box. I'm assuming the fan power and light power should be separated in there? (If not you're out of options). If they are you still wouldn't be able to control fan speed but it would go to whatever setting is on the pull chain. It's z-wave so you'd still need something like Smartthings hub which isnt horrible because then you can open a door of other things to control if you choose.

u/jam905 · 1 pointr/winkhub

I haven't used their nano dimmer, but I do have several of their microswitches playing nicely with Hub 2 (and the original hub).

I just put the hub into z-wave inclusion mode, and clicked the button on the switch.

u/mrkevbo · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have a Hunter fan as well. I bought a Bond device which essentially replicates the RF controller Hunter fans use. Hooked it up to my GHome and it works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr

u/Working-on-it12 · 17 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

Yeah for DD2's spine. Maybe that will help DH when the time comes to evict her.

Have you considered something like the below for the TV and lamp? You would probably need 3, 1 for the TV, one for the big lamp, and one to turn on a nightlight. https://smile.amazon.com/Outlet-Required-enabled-Control-Gosund/dp/B074576LSB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539618635&sr=8-3&keywords=home+automation+plug+sockets (Disclosure, I know nothing about these, I just see them in my Big Box Home store.)

You may want to follow up on the heavy leg with her and log a call to here PCP. The "heavy" part could be a blood clot.

u/relikter · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

You want either the HomeSeer HSM200 or the EZMultiPli multi-sensor. They're both the same product, but re-badged. I have one in my master bath, and it works great. It reports motion, temperature, luminosity, has a multi-color LED, and functions as a repeater/extender.

u/sangdrax8 · 1 pointr/googlehome

I didn't research it to much, but I have seen controllers that install behind the normal switch that support more than one input. So perhaps you can use some combination to control parts of you switch? Enerwave Z-Wave Plus Switch Module ZWN-RSM2 Converting 2 Current Switches Smart, NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qzMAybJP795M6

u/printgod · 1 pointr/homeautomation

>The important question to ask is what kind of 3-phase (they aren’t all alike), and what voltage is our lighting? (A possible answer not compatible with your switch is 277v).

Yeah I mean if he has 3 phase with a neutral they are most likely 277vac. Seems like the z-wave relay/contactor method is the best bet at like ~$40. Can be installed in the ceiling at the fixture or in the switch box - See Here . You can get straight up switches for 277vac but they are price $65 - See Here

u/Noob911 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Pretty sure you can use this. Much like the one you linked from Home Depot, it can be installed in the fan canopy. The wall switch will still work to turn the whole thing on and off, but when on, you can control the can and light separately- or create a virtual switch to turn them on/off simultaneously

u/shortRound1911 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

My fav Z-Wave motion sensor is the ecolink (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQXXG0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Out of all my zwave motion sensors these are by far the best motion sensor I have. Only 'down side' is the detection range is sort of large for my rooms so motion is triggered from hallway when walking by.

Pros:
- Fast triggering

- Very long battery life (running same batteries over a yr now)

- Has never needed tinkering with after setup, very stable and reliable

​

Other Z-Wave motion sensors i have, ordered by best to worst imo:

- Aeotec multisensor 6 (3x) best multi sensor option imo but burns battery fast (~1-2months) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

- Fibaro Motion Sensor (1x) works great most of the time, but every few months it freaks out and constantly triggers motion and needs to be removed and re-added to network. prob bad unit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KOGDETI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

- Mono Price multi sensor (2x) very slow motion sensor detection, scan freq is low and afaik unconfigurable. bottom barrel option imo, do not recommend as motion sensors but do ok w/ temp / humidity / light but lite measurement is in a weird scale vs other lux sensors i have (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRYFE90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/ferricyanide · 1 pointr/vinyl

You'd be fine if you used a relay such as this one. It has a transistor to protect from back voltage to the Pi and is really easy to use. I've set one up in the past to control a lamp with my cell phone.

u/Ben1182367 · 1 pointr/arduino

Wait so are you saying that a USB connection and 5V pin is enough to power the motor I am buying? Cause I noticed I can just connect the USB port into a wall so it's no less convenient than plugging in the 24V power supply I just bought. It would make things a lot easier and cheaper for me actually.

On a side note, I found this :

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Conwork-10-Pack-Female-Extension/dp/B01G6EANPU/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=5.5%C3%972.1+Female+Power+Plug+arduino&qid=1555367847&s=electronics&sr=1-9

and this :

https://www.marginallyclever.com/product/55x21-female-power-plug/

They both seem to maybe help me do what I need. But also I have one of these from my kit:

https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-Supply-Arduino-Solderless-Breadboard/dp/B01LCL6K0O/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5.5%C3%972.1%2BFemale%2BPower%2BPlug%2Barduino&qid=1555368165&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1

Can I just use that?

u/ddaug4uf · 1 pointr/homeautomation

From what I can tell, you would need to add both a fan RF Control Kit and some thing like Bond Ceiling Fan Controller, which is Alexa compatible.

The RF Control kit turns your old dumb fan into a fan controllable by a remote.

The Bond clones the RF signal from the remote and will work with Alexa so you can control it with voice.

u/AndyFromMN · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

You could use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME

I think Aeotec makes a dual switch one as well.

Otherwise you could just remove the current gang box and put in a larger one to accommodate 2 smart switches.

u/SoldierOnce · 1 pointr/SmartThings

If the use case is to be able to buy yourself in, geofence is not accurate enough to trigger that.

Sounds like you'll need to wire something into the door buzzer in your apartment. Like this thing.

Enerwave ZWN-RSM1-PLUS Z-Wave Relay, Z-Wave Plus Micro Switch, Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ugPQCbSETGY9R

How exactly? Could not say.... It'll depend on the way the buzzer works.

Keep in mind that this will mean if your internet or power goes down, you are stuck outside.

u/ohmydandle · 1 pointr/homeassistant

You can also check out BOND. It does IR and RF. There's no HA integration yet, but I'm writing a component now. I've reverse engineered their API: https://github.com/danmandle/bond and will be publishing the HA component in a few weeks.

u/czrabode · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I connected the live and load wires to an Aeotec Z Wave Micro Switch. I could have directly capped the two wires but I wanted the ability to turn it off and on with my zwave hub's app if I wanted to.


Then I removed the toggle switch and replaced it with a toggle plastic adapter plate.


I then installed a screwless 3 gang plate. I first tried a regular screwed in plate but the screw was getting in the way of centering the POP (OCD).


And then I just attached the Pop with a double sided tape.


I will also try to use a Flic. I think it may look nicer because it's smaller. I have an old android phone that I'll use as a dedicated Flic "Hub".


Disclaimer: I did this with the guidance of my electrician and do not recommend you doing it yourself without an electrician or without referring to your local code.

u/swarren68 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay Switch Module, Z-Wave Relay

Used it to give circa 1990 fan/light smart capabilities, as-well-as voice control via Amazon Echo. Used Westinghouse 7727000 48-Inch Down Rod Wire Extension Kit to extend leads.

u/Buzzkill48074 · 1 pointr/Python

You probably want to ask over at r/raspberry_pi. I have completed projects with power switching and would probably recommend using a relay. You can still use python to turn the relay off and on... And it's kinda the whole point of using a pi for this type of project. Here is an [example project] (https://elementztechblog.wordpress.com/2014/09/09/controlling-relay-boards-using-raspberrypi/) (not mine)...

Alternatively, you could use a pump like this combined with a motor controler you would get much more precision over the flow.

u/BreakfastBeerz · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Enerwave makes and handy dual relay microcontroller. Its about the size of a quarter and has relays to control both the fan and the light. Plenty of room in the canopy. You don't get dimming or fan speed control, but it works to control the fan and light indepently.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=twister_B01CPO2D3K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It does need a device type handler that's available from the smartthings community in order to utilize both relays.

u/Niautanor · 1 pointr/ABDL

I think the easiest solution would probably getting a one of these and a compatible charger like this one I think.

The FTDI programmer can supply power as well but it might not be enough if you make use of the Wifi stuff.

u/TerawattX · 1 pointr/smarthome

I have a Wink Hub as my smart controller, then am getting some of these to convert my light switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vDODybFPS73D2

There are also 2 switch versions that would control 2 lights, but basically they act like a 2nd switch for the light but it's hidden in the wall box so both the hub or switch can control the light.

u/arizona-lad · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

It might be cheaper to get a remote controlled fan, then use the Bond system of smart control:

https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-through-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH

u/thatother1guy · 1 pointr/arduino

This is the relay that triggers the on/off button, but any 5V relay works, it doesn't have to be high voltage. I don't know about the other one, I just found it laying around. Here's a picture of it more in focus. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, if it's rated to handle household current it's plenty good.

u/Kv603 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Could easily do this with a /r/esp32, though if you DIY it on a devkit and add a battery, it'd be closer to the size of a pack of playing cards.

I've been playing around with doing something similar using a Fibaro FGMS-001 ZW5 Motion Sensor. It lights up a colored "eye" when it sees motion, you can set the color via Z-Wave.

So far I haven't had much success -- the Fibaro is a battery-powered Z-Wave device and likes to sleep when no motion is seen, thus it doesn't always get the update message telling it to change colors.

u/scpotter · 1 pointr/HomeKit

My fireplace (like most gas fireplaces in the US) just needs a circuit to close to turn on. I had a wall switch doing this, I replaced that with a HomeKit outlet, a 5v DC wall wort, and a $6 relay. All that stuff is under the fireplace. I didn’t even know what a relay was when I started, but this was much easier than I thought it would be.

The relay: Tolako 5v Relay Module for Arduino ARM PIC AVR MCU 5V Indicator Light LED 1 Channel Relay Module Works with Official Arduino Boards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OAMRCb29M6G8J

u/mdholgate · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Well, I have 4 remote controlled fans in my house and wanted the ability to control them with Google Assistant. I bought a Bond , It was a little funky to setup using my Android phone but works flawlessly for me and my family!

u/dlflannery · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Keeping in mind my only experience is with TP-Link switches, which won't work for you, here is what I think will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481508259&sr=8-1&keywords=enerwave+zwn-rsm2

With this you keep your existing switches and this module should (must) fit behind them in the box. If it won't fit, I think it can optionally be located in the ceiling fan housing.

This uses Z-wave remote control technology and thus requires a Z-wave hub such as the Samsung Smart Things hub shown in the Amazon listing linked above. Note the 3 links to guides/manuals also further down in that listing. One of those has the installation instructions including a wiring diagram.

With this system your manual switches still control the light/fan but the z-wave control also controls them and can be linked to Alexa control. Z-wave control does NOT depend on the manual switches being on.

u/Kreyonus · 1 pointr/arduino

I ordered this relay module online in hopes i could use it to control the electromagnet. Would this work instead of a mosfet. I could solder the 12vDC electromagnet into the 12v adapter wires to power it and the arduino from the same source? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is the magnet i ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JERC00S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/reginald-iii · 5 pointsr/HomeKit

Some new solutions were just announced at CES 2017, so they won't be out for a bit:

http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/5/10706816/apple-homekit-light-switch-power-outlet-idevices-ces-2016

http://www.macrumors.com/2017/01/05/leviton-homekit-light-switches-dimmers

I believe this one is already available, but I'm not 100% sure it supports non-wifi/Bluetooth connected bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Connected-HomeKit-technology-Bluetooth/dp/B01M8HI8L5

There are others out there, too!

u/porkchopnet · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

https://www.amazon.com/Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-through-Control/dp/B071GVGVVH/

It’s $100 but it’ll control your ceiling fans through Alexa. Mine needs to be power cycled like once a week though.

u/USArmy51Bravo · 2 pointsr/homeowners

This will dial it in... Sense Energy Monitor: Electricity Usage Monitor To Track Energy Usage in Real Time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OmhyCbR0Y1VRR

u/invitedguest50 · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

If you want to measure at the circuit: Sense could work.

Or something cheaper like this.

u/rudekoffenris · 1 pointr/smarthome

There really isn't much in the form of smart switches for fans.

There is something from Lutron like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6WCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-20&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch

I don't know anything about lutron or what infrastructure it requires. It does say it's compatible with Alexa.

if you have a remote for the fan you might look at bond https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-14&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch

which mimics your remote control, but has the disadvantage of being uni directional, or stateless.

There is also an Insteon solution, but you would need at least a hub for that and be decently handy with electrical (as you would with the Lutron to be fair).

u/ImTheWhiz · 4 pointsr/HomeKit

Eve Light Switch is $48 @ Amazon which seems to be an alltime low.

A couple Wemo devices have been on sale recently at Amazon. The Wemo Dimmer was $59.99 and the Wemo Mini Smart Plug was $23.99. I wouldn't be surprised if they hit those prices again this weekend.

u/dum_dum_dummm · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

In theory, you could use one of the dual relays to connect both the fan and the light switch. The only downside is that you won't be able to control the fan speed.

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480261041&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+relay+z-wave

u/370gt · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Nope, you can keep the regular one. Like this micro switch

u/hunterstee · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If you have a hub that handles z-wave, maybe something like this would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME

But z-wave isn't gonna reach 200ft, so you'd need a repeater or something.

u/flaggfox · 1 pointr/SmartThings

An alternative would be to just bypass the switch and install this behind the cowling of the fan. No fan speed/dimmer control tho.

u/AresX85 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use a Linear switch PS15Z-2 which does this and is fairly cheap. It can handle 15 amps so I run a heated blanket and things like that, plus its pretty cheap. The only downside is it's fairly large compared to some but hasn't been an issue for me.

u/Belgain_Roffles · 2 pointsr/smarthome

My advice was only 100% relevant to the brands I mentioned and am not advising splicing wires.

In the case of the brands I mentioned, the difference between a unit with a pump and one without is literally a pump installed into the machine compartment. The cord which would otherwise be plugged into the wall from the ice maker is plugged into a socket on the pump and the pump itself has its own cord that then goes to the wall. The pump is supposed to shut off power to the ice maker if the pump fails.

Looking at the pump kit for the Scotsman it is clear that this isn't the case. I don't have any suggestions at this point, though you could try splicing if you really wanted to with one of the in-wall switches like:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8

u/Geordi14er · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I got this for around $35 LINEAR FS20Z-1 Z-Wave 20-amp Isolated Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gdP7Ab0GT8M0T

It's a bit of a DIY setup, soldered it to an old PC cable I had. Plugged it into the same outlet as the garage door opener and mounted it on the same bracket. Also got an Ecolink garage door tilt sensor for about $24.

I don't use location services, not sure how reliable or quick to respond they are. But my setup is great for auto closing at night, and sending me actionable push notifications if I leave it open during the day. Also made an IFTTT widget so I can open with my watch.

u/dbrown831 · 1 pointr/Abode

I wanted to do the same. I have not tried this yet, but this looks to be the simplest solution. A regular blinker bulb to a z-wave switch set to go on with alarm.

Sunlite A19/5W/BL/WW LED A19 Blinker Light Bulb 5W Medium (E26) Base, 3000K Warm White
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-80204-A19-Blinker-5W/dp/B00ULSPT3O/

Connected to a compatible z-wave switch or one of these.
Micro Switch G2, DSC26103-ZWUS,
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-DSC26103-ZWUS-Aeotec-pigtails-1-pack/dp/B06Y23DYWV/

u/jds013 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

If you have an indoor junction box, then you avoid environmental issues and locate the switch indoors. There are a few high current solutions - Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch (40 amps) is one, Linear makes another. You can control it with an outdoor Z-Wave temperature sensor.

u/forsakenbulwark · 2 pointsr/smarthome

Yep! Here's a link of something similar. Not sure if that's the exact one I got.

u/Xials · 2 pointsr/arduino

It's called a relay. They are cheap. here is a 5v relay. you can get them in multiples, with multiple current ratings.
Just put one inline with a wall switch. They are small enough to fit in the switch box.

If you want the switch to always invert the state, (i.e. If light is on, and switch is down) you could hook the wall switch up to gpio and have it swap the state of the relay for every switch state change. This way you won't run into a situation where you want to manually turn off the light but can't because it was remote controlled.

u/ajg810 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Updating my own post because I think I figured out a way.

They make garage door universal receivers (intended for driveway gates), which are basically N.O. relays that work with garage door openers. Example I can then connect that relay to a Z-Wave switch module, such as this, and that will allow the garage door relays to communicate via Z-wave with my home automation system. I haven't tried it yet, but seems feasible.

u/charminggeek · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

A cheaper way to convert 3/4 way switches is to use one of the micro relays from enerwave, aeotec, vision, aeon labs, quibino, etc. You just need to put one of these fellows behind the switch closest to the light (or at the light itself), and don't need to replace any switches. These relays are more expensive than a single z-wave switch, but often cheaper than a master+slave switch.

Here's a link to one example.

u/SoraUsagi · 1 pointr/homeautomation

https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8

This is an example of what you could use. I don't know the amperage of your device, so I went big. There are other brands and models. This will allow you to turn it off and on and set timers, but you will not be able to control the temp output.

u/87TLG · 1 pointr/HomeKit

My understanding is that the Bond uses IR, requiring line-of-sight.

Actually, looking closer at the Amazon listing, the product description mentions IR AND RF.

www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zPBCCbT3FPDDE

I know the Bond doesn’t do native Homekit, but there is a Homebridge plug-in available.

u/twelveparsex · 1 pointr/volt

You might want to check out [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i9FLzbAMQ437B)

Power draw is roughly 3.4 kWh according to my solar system's monitoring

u/thekneemonkey · 1 pointr/diysound

2 5v triggered arduino relays will get you to 1P4T

u/5-4-3-2-1-bang · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I did this with my range hood a couple of months ago. I used an aeotec micro switch. It ticks every requirement you have.

u/overzeetop · 1 pointr/arduino

It's specifically made for Arduino with a FET on board for the control pin and I'm powering the coil (not the switched load, the relay coil itself) from a separate 5V/2A power supply. It's schematically identical to this one - note the J3Y transistor on the side.

Others have mentioned that I I needed to declare the pinMode for output (narrator: he didn't), which I'll be checking later.

u/glires · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

You could put a hidden micro-switch inside the back of the receptacle and keep the non-smart outlet downstream. Here is an example of one: https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8

u/sleezly · 1 pointr/Hue

Perhaps that'd work but it wouldn't be very accessible if hidden behind the Hue dimmer wallplate.

Maybe a Zwave micro relay would be preferred? Of course a Zwave hub would be required though.

Micro Switch G2, DSC26103-ZWUS, by Aeotec with pigtails (1-pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y23DYWV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mqTPzb7CD6393

u/TheMrRatchet · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I actually bought a 0.96" OLED screen that I might add to display when the plant was last watered.
Arduino
Raspberry Pi
Pump
Relay
Sensor

u/WikenwIken · 2 pointsr/arduino

I probably could have been more specific, I am using a relay module (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to toggle the solenoid, connected to the Arduino's ground, 5 V and D4 signal pin.

u/neonturbo · 1 pointr/winkhub

I didn't see anything either with a quick look.

Not sure if this would fit into your outlet box, but there are "contact modules" that are 20A. You probably would have to have a double gang box with a blanking plate over the controller.

https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=sr_1_58?ie=UTF8&qid=1500953560&sr=8-58&keywords=z-wave+outlet


This looks similar to what I am thinking you would do. https://community.smartthings.com/t/garage-zwave-relay-switch/1176

u/HyPyke · 1 pointr/zwave

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Assuming you have neutral and space in the box this would allow you to control both lights individually.

There is a custom device handler for smartthings though and that might take some edumacation.

https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-enerwave-zwn-rsm2-v1-v2-rsm2-plus-smart-dual-relay-switch-module/44256

Not sure about other hubamathings

u/tagd · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Nope, it knows about a lot of devices and you can custom capture the RF signals for the ones that it doesn't. Your existing remotes continue to work. No new receiver is required.

This is exactly what I bought from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH

u/Anthony780 · 1 pointr/arduino

You could also use a relay board. They work out of the box with no soldering and you can get boards with up to 16 relays.
https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/

u/ba12348 · 1 pointr/DIY

That depends on the size of your motor, the digital pins on the arduino can provide 40 milliamps of 5v power, but given that your motor is out of a car I suspect it requires 12v to operate, at a substantially higher current. For the purposes of your demonstration I you can either get a 12v battery box, or a 12v wall transformer and just say that in a production run the motor would be run by the car's 12v electrical system. Then use a relay to control the power to the motor.

u/WaffIes · 1 pointr/Luthier

You could try rigging it into a relay such as this one, then powering it with a 9v battery. It may take some fiddling, and I'm way too tired to think right now, but it could work. I used it to hook a lamp up to an arduino and powered it with much lower voltage than the lamp would normally take. Of course, you'll still have the normal issues you'd get by using a doorbell circuit.

If you really want to get it done you could wire up a killswitch with a doorbell looking button, and add an LED that is controlled by the killswitch button.

u/_BindersFullOfWomen_ · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You could try this, it's a zwave relay that you can install on dumb switches.

u/ElHeffay · 1 pointr/arduino

The two servos and linear actuator Im using are all getting power directly from the 12v power source. The only things connecting these items to arduino are their signal lines and ground.

Im actually not sure how much current Im drawing from the 5V rail. The only things being powered by the +5V rail are three of these photosensors, two of these relay boards (to change the direction of the linear actuator), and two limit switches with 10k ohm pull-down resistors. Ill try to find my multimeter and see if this is the problem.


If I was drawing over 150mA from the 5V rail, wouldnt my arduino overheat even if it was plugged into the USB of a computer? Because right now it's fine if I keep it plugged into the computer and dont have 12 going directly to Vin.

u/automate_the_things · 1 pointr/homeautomation

> it's an open plan living/dining/kitchen

Yeah. My dad lived in a house like that for a while. It was awful. Have dinner, put dishes in dishwasher and then proceed to be entirely unable to hear the TV for the next hour. It's not privacy so much as just being obnoxiously noisy.

But, back to the lights... One option might be to put in zwave controlled mini-switches behind the cans, and put up a control panel instead of switches, but you're really back in the realm of "this could really bite you in the ass in 20 years" since the wiring won't be standard. For today tho, something like this would work in conjunction with a control panel "switch" https://www.amazon.com/Switch-DSC26103-ZWUS-Aeotec-pigtails-1-pack/dp/B06Y23DYWV

Either that, or smart-bulbs maybe, but then you're dealing with the "no no no, don't turn that wall switch off or the bulbs won't work!!" issues...