Reddit mentions: The best house paint rollers

I spent a bit of time researching this topic and am always excited to see someone post about it.

I bought a roll and made my own tape using the 3M 9485 PC adhesive and 0.51 DCF. I’ve only used it on VX series XPac. It bonds very well to it. You did a couple things different than I did, and I like what you did.

First, I like the opaque material you use. The DCF is really lightweight and strong, but not as pretty because you can see the seams through it. The material you used will add a little more weight than DCF, so there is a trade off for the hardcore gram counters. But it really looks great!

Second, I like how you pressed the seam apart when you applied the tape. I folded the seam allowances over in the same direction when I stitched the bag, so I couldn’t open and press them like you did. Both ways are functional, but yours looks a lot better. Here’s a picture of the inside of my bag made from VX series XPac sealed with the tape I made from DCF.
https://imgur.com/a/afE9vL2

Third, you used coated materials in your bag. This is how you get a true waterproof seal. I’m not sure the uncoated Cordura will be truly waterproof for the same reason as VX series XPac (more on that below). But, it will be very water resistant.

One suggestion... Use a roller to apply the tape. It really improves the bonding. I picked this one up on Amazon and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GVGTX2V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

An note about seam tape and XPac... If you are using VX series XPac, then you cannot get a true waterproof seal. The woven polyester face on the inside of the material allows water to wick under/behind the tape and into the bag. I had to put mine under the shower head for about 20 minutes to observe this, but it happened.

Recreation XPac (X21RC) is what you want to use if you want a true waterproof bag in XPac. I think the TX series will work too.

From Quest Outfitters:
X 21 RC uses the same 210 denier face fabric as the VX21 but has a .5 mil shiny polyester PET film backing instead of a woven polyester - this makes it lighter and more flexible.

Thanks for sharing!

I'm gonna have to disagree with /u/UncleTouchers


There are different kinds of silencers, some are purely "aesthetic" and are just screw on metal tubes, functionally, you can use them to house an extended precision inner barrel, but thats not really the purpose of them, aesthetics are ... but thats just those ones.


Some are hallow, and don't really do much for the noise volume, these are the most common as best I can tell. however they can be modded to dampen sound, with these they are refil's of mini paint rollers and you need to take off the plastic mount to create a foam tube...but if you get them into a hollow silencer, they work pretty well.


Some like this actually come with foam inside of them already, and they work.


Now on to the misunderstanding of other players, or rather lack of explanation. The majority of noise coming from airsoft guns is the mech box and motor, the motor on some AEG's in the hand guard, isn't even always fully concealed, like with the ares ameoba, maybe its for heat dissipation, but some guns are just too loud to benefit from dampening the barrel.


Gun's that do benefit, are some of the gas pistols, the pistol AEP's and the spring snipers, as well as some HPA tapped guns.



I have the suppressor I linked attached to a spring VSR-10 and the thing can not be heard outside of 10m and is hard to hear outside 4m . after the barrel, noise comes from the inner barrel rattling, that should also be attended to, the stock can act like a megaphone if hollow, like with fixed stock M16's and VSR's and the piston internally can make some noise, the VSR features an air break piston so its not so noisy, but you can modify your piston with a soft pad to reduce noise if it becomes an issue.



Personally I think trying to silence a full auto AEG is a bit too much work, unless its maybe a Barrett, with a large outer barrel and plenty of internal room for insulation.


apart from those foam rollers, if you ask about sound dampening foam, its often sold by the meter squared for like 10$ per m , its used for home studios and cinema rooms and shit, but one m3 will be enough to tinker and play with, or just use packing foam to fill cavities like gun stocks.

The Big Agnes bag is only one of many options for camping hammocks. there are plenty of other manufacturers, as well as alternative solutions (as all of the other replies in this thread will attest to).

Here is just one more. I custom made a sleeping pad for my hammock from a section of an inexpensive folding automobile sun shade, comprised of two layers of heavy duty reflective mylar with a similarly heavy duty layer of bubble-wap insulations sandwiched in between (cut to length and shape), with a thin layer of polar-fleece hot glued onto one side (to increase the warmth and to keep the pad from sliding out from under my ultra-lightweight Marmot sleeping bag). The pad goes inside the hammock under the sleeping bag and covers from my shoulders down to just above my knees (where the slot in my older style HH ends).

This is the sunshade that I purchased for around $7: http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/8424709/00154/

This pad works like a charm in all weather conditions. The only time I don't use it is for those midsummer nights that never drop out of the 60's.

BTW, One other advantage of gluing on a layer of polar fleece is that it helps to cut down on the buildup of condensation under your sleeping bag that some people have experienced in the colder weather when using just the plain sunshade.

If you want to put the pad inside your hammock polarfleece side up (the most efficient at reducing condensation), you can either glue the polarfleece to both sides, or you can apply thin lines of silicon bathtub calk to the underside of the sunscreen. These will keep the pad from sliding around inside your hammock during the night. The easiest way to get a thin layer that is still quite grippy is to lay down thin parallel beads of silicone about 4-6" apart and then spread the caulk with a notched adhesive spreader (available from any hardware/paint supply store).

This link has a photo of the adhesive spreader that I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Padco-83729-Friendly-Painting-Adhesive/dp/B005MI3SUY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_5

If you like the rustic look of the way it is now then you can put on a clear waterproofer/wood protector. If you want it to be some color, then get a semi-transparent or solid color deck stain/waterproofer.

Personally I would put a semi-transparent stain on that. Some of the contrast you see on the deck board surfaces will show through, but it will also transition to the corners where sanding is incomplete, etc.

One thing I appreciated from my recent deck-staining experience was how fast large surfaces can be covered with a staining pad like this. You'll need to use a brush to edge & get into corners, but the pad is fantastic for the rest.

Get a 4 inch wiz roller with a clothe roller, as pictured (not the sponge roller)
https://www.amazon.com/Work-Tools-International-54164-Premium/dp/B000I1CKJ0/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1474398359&sr=8-15&keywords=4%22+wiz+roller

Put some joint compound on the wall, a teaspoon or tablespoon to start. Then use the roller to spread and roll the compound back and forth, until you get a very thin texture similar to that around it. The roller fabric should be moistened before use, a little bit, to keep too much of the joint compound from sticking to it. If at any time you don’t like what’s happening and you want to start over, get a towel and just wipe it off the wall. The joint compound must dry and usually over night before painting. What you create with the compound can be sanded a bit when dry, to knock off any high points, to further match its surroundings. Essentially, you're replicating possibly years of paint being rolled on the walls. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/GYPSUM-380270072-Gypsum-380270-Compound/dp/B000PDL6F0/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474398609&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=joint+comopund

I've been practicing avoiding brush marks on smaller projects by using a high quality roller. Still haven't gotten the finish I want but it's getting close.

Edit:

not a fan of these as they don't roll right for me when loaded with paint

Paint Rollers 4 inch, KUPOO Home Decorator DIY Painting Paint Mini Foam Roller Refill & Woven Roller Covers 1/2" Nap Set of 11 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRBKLCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yK7mDbD4BHZEA


Starting to love this style with the roller frame as they seem to roll more consistently leaving a better finish.

Katzco Paint Roller - with 4 Wire Cages 3 Inches and 3 Roller Covers 3 Inches - for Any Professional Paint Job, Oil Stain, Watercolor - Use for Professional and Amateur Construction Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EME5630/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RH7mDb26DDRV3

Contamination - not worried at all. Bacteria hate alcohol, which is why I ferment the mead for two weeks before adding the berries. Your greatest risk of contamination is before fermentation begins.

Submerged in the mead - The berries like to float - that's why I only use 2 or 3 lbs at a time. I use a large paint strainer ($2 at Home Depot) to hold the berries. Every day or two I gently rock the carboy to move the berries around. The fist time I did not use a bag to hold the berries and it was a nightmare to siphon the mead with tiny pits of berries clogging my siphon.

Removing the bag of berries is easy, you can:

1. rack the mead to another fermenter leaving the bag of berried behind
   
   
2. just reach in there and grab a corner of the bag.
   
   Wooden cask - no, but I'd love to try.
   

I just did some of this on a new ceiling at home. I used very watered down all purpose mud. I applied it thinly with a knife then rolled over it with a heavy textured roller. Use long strokes and a standard pattern as you work. Very messy work. Once it dried 2+ days, Scrape all the points off. Don't baby it, just scape away. Add paint. I'd do the new area, then decide later if you need to go over the existing to ensure its uniform. My results look exactly like your photo.

TRUE VALUE APPLICATORS MPSTR-9IN MP Select Texture Roller Cover, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HG12T0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86J.zb454WJXD

Maybe get a mini paint roller like [this one.] (http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-03060C-3-Inch-Touch-Roller/dp/B000FGZMHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371818889&sr=8-1&keywords=small+paint+roller) Might make it easier to get good coverage

If you are serious about clean brushes, this tool will do the job:

https://www.amazon.com/Purdy-140755200-Cleaning-Roller-Spinner/dp/B00F29A7Y8

It does a great job of stripping the paint off each of the bristles.

You can use one of these, very helpful. I wait for it to start kicking and then I run squeegee over it to saturate with some new fresh resin. That keep threads straight and gets the coverage you are looking for.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007VQRHJS/ref=pd_aw_fbt_86_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=158KPRH5M2NKRBZAGBWK

I currently use this: http://www.amazon.com/Sno-Brum-Original-Removal-Telescoping/dp/B0007LDXLA/

 

Combined with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00181UGA4/

 

The Sno-Brum is made out of stiff foam. Pretty much no chance of scratching the panels.

 

I've never heard of the tennis ball method. I assume you're just tossing a tennis ball up there hoping to knock some of the snow off. Just enough to let the panel start to heat up and melt the rest?

And if you can't spray then a paint stick is the next best thing.

In order to aid mixing, something like a 5 gallon paint mixer would help speed up the process. http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-06200C-Paint-Mixer/dp/B00004Z4H5/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1303063017&sr=1-2

So like this with this and one of these ?!

I would add this to the system.

http://www.amazon.com/Graco-244512-Pressure-Rollr-Kit/dp/B0021XZQ0S/ref=pd_sim_hi_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WAJDG6WEC47CEWRJND1

I have used a paint-stick a lot for interior painting and I can beat most any one with a open sprayer on walls and ceilings due to the smaller amount of prep that is needed. For the baseboard the sprayer works better, but make sure mask everything when using the sprayer.

Thanks for the detailed reply!

/r/travtele844 , what do you think of this kit?

The single biggest thing is a table saw, and not the cheapest one you can find either. Otherwise, typical woodworking tools apply: drill, chisels, clamps (bar clamps in various sizes for cabinet making) etc. The only real specialty tool you want, and this is for installing them, not building them, is a set of face frame clamps that make it so much easier to align the fronts of cabinets while you screw them together.
edit you mentioned melamine specifically, so you might find a laminate roller and edge banding trimmer useful.

The edger is a magical thing. Also, this thing right here will save your life. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102ZBALA/ref=asc_df_B0102ZBALA5098393/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B0102ZBALA&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198077767340&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6726368731366878529&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012979&hvtargid=pla-373698547327

Spin them clean with one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Purdy-140755200-Roller-Spinner-Cleaning/dp/B00F29A7Y8
this is the one I own, makes quick work of clean up.

it's a paint brush spinner to dry brushes after you clean them with liquid.

https://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-5200C-Professional-Cleaning-Construction/dp/B00004Z4HL

Yes, the hardwood stores the trades use will have them. You can get one from Amazon too.

Amazon T Bar

I assume you've already ruled out a lambswool pad and other flat applicators? They're much more user-friendly. I was going to get a t-bar for the last job I did at home, but everything I read suggested it required practice and quite a bit of technique.

Just buy a manual spinner, it does brushes and rollers, and last for years. One like this:
amazon

Thanks. I only used the polisher pre-poly. I didn't sand between coats and chose a satin finish because I didn't want it too glossy. No bubbles because I bought a quality t-bar and applicator and spread the coats thin. I'd go with glossy polyurethane and screen it with 220 before the final coat for a mirror-like finish.

Or you could buy one of these for half the price and use a 5 gallon bucket. Hell of a lot easier to clean than that thing is, and fewer moving (and plastic) parts to break

My weapon of choice