Reddit mentions: The best household lime & rust removers

Oxalic Acid Bath. You can find good write up on the method on BMXMuseum

https://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=351132

You can buy Oxalic Acid crystals on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147GM7CQ (2lb)

https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-Crystals-Cleaning-Removal-Remover/dp/B0793F89NT (8 oz)

To protect the underside of my car, I sprayed all the rust prone bits with Fluid Film. I've done this to the last two cars I've had and it's been effective; it coats the surface in a waxy film that doesn't dry up. One good coating lasts the winter. It smells a bit funky because it's made out of sheep wool wax so don't spray it on the exhaust; I did this and my car smelled like a farm for a few days :/

I would rip it up and put in a new pressure treated wood and stain with desired color in 6mos-1year.

If that is not an option, buy some bulk oxalic acid off of amazon and mix in a sprayer and pressure wash - this should brighten up the deck considerably. Afterwards, stain with your desired color. (Note: Restore-a-deck - makes some nice product and 1 gallon should easily cover you for two coats.

Oxalic Acid:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147GM7CQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pressure Washer:

https://smile.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-SPX4001-Electric-Technology/dp/B01NBV3LPV/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sunjoe+pressure+washer&qid=1566841916&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Stain:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07C6YD9CC/ref=twister_B07C6ZXR8B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I would recommend Fluid Film for underbody coating. Just clean off any loose dirt and rust then spray it on. Since it's lanolin based it wont damage any plastics or rubber and it does not wash off easily so your car can still be taken through the car wash.

even easier...

http://www.amazon.com/Lime-A-Way-Lime-Calcium-Rust-Cleaner/dp/B000QRATD0

just spray some on, let it sit for a few seconds, then turn on the shower.

Limescale on black tile is the worst! You can go organic and spray it with a mix of half vinegar and half water, let sit 15 minutes, rinse, and repeat as necessary. You can go chemical and use Lime-A-Way, great stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Lime-Way-Bathroom-Cleaner-Removes/dp/B0086A5I0I/

That fixed it => https://www.amazon.com/CLR-Calcium-Remover-Biodegradable-Bottle/dp/B07G9JMTS2

They have at my local hardware store but I think the main ingredients are the same so this should work.

https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-Crystals-Cleaning-Removal-Remover/dp/B0147GM7CQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=snow+cap+rust+remover&qid=1574195928&sprefix=snow+cap+rust&sr=8-5

Washing every 4-5 can ruin the oil in a dog’s coat which may lead to skin issues, washing every few weeks should be fine so excessive odor could be a medical problem as or just they he is. It’s at least worth bringing up at your next vet appointment. I use these between baths to help with doggy odor, they work quite well in my experience.

No real advice for getting him used to water, but figured those may help with the odor problem at least.

CLR. Not the popular option because it's caustic. It works though. Calcium, Lime, and Rust Remover 28 oz - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0GIKQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cemXCb027K1VX

? No, it's instantly shiny!

Here's a link to the stuff I use. The stuff in the spray bottle is different (and I haven't tried it) so don't get that — you want to be able to soak things anyway.

When it starts getting cold and I change to my winter tires and do the winter's oil change, I get under the car and spray this stuff over everything. Yeah, it's gross and the underside of your car will be pretty nasty, but it won't have rust. As someone who lives above the snow line, you have to choose your battles.

Someone else commented saying white vinegar. I have used this to restore an old leatherman I found while skiing when I was a kid. It was 90% rust but after soaking in vinegar and a little elbow grease I had it shining. Another slightly more aggressive approach would be to use some CLR or equivalent to really get that rust off and then throughly clean with iso and hot water after. Now that the coating has worn off the vape may be more prone to rusting so you may want to get another one anyway. I have abused and neglected the hell out of my 2018 M and never seen a spot of rust. Tryin to show it some love now with a nice new glass cradle for it to rest in

Hello! I’m glad you asked before getting one of these. Most of the store brands that you’ll see are the same MTD snowblower with a different name and color paint. As all of these individual companies went out of business over the past 20 years, MTD bought the name and now sells their junk with these once-trustworthy brand names painted on them. For instance, you can buy the same 30” snowblower at Lowe’s with a Troy-Bilt badge, at Tractor Supply with a Cub Cadet badge, at Sears with a Craftsman badge, at Walmart (Yard Machines maybe? I forgot.) etc. Troy-Bilt was once a company that made great power equipment in Troy, NY. Now MTD and Lowe’s just take advantage of their reputation.

I picked up a Troy-Bilt 3090 XP from Lowe’s when I first bought my house and hadn’t looked into these. I wish I hadn’t. The plastic chute doesn’t stay locked in place, the starter and lights failed immediately (the first use), and the steel/paint are inferior (rust!).

I have three recommendations. The first is to buy a Toro or Husqvarna from a local, independent dealer. You’ll have vastly better machine quality and customer service. If you tell me what area you live in, I can recommend a dealer.

The second is to hose off your snowblower in the spring, and then (once dry) coat every metal part with a thin layer of Fluid Film, a rust inhibitor. You can do this to the underside of lawnmower decks too.

Lastly, buy gasoline in small one-gallon increments and use the blue Sta-Bil fuel treatment all the time. At the end of the season, make sure your equipment’s gas tank is completely full with treated fuel to avoid moisture buildup and other fuel/storage problems. If you ever have untreated gas that’s two months old or treated gas that’s six months old, put it into your car and get a fresh supply for your OPE.

Edits:

• Snowblowers aren’t an especially dangerous tool. Just don’t stick any body parts into the chute while it’s running.

• I don’t care for any of Consumer Reports’ reviews. They tend to test brand new items for immediate use and have no perspective on long-term dependability, maintenance, customer service, or factory support.

• I’ve had MTD reject a warranty claim on a leaf blower because I couldn’t find my receipt. They could have just checked the serial number to see that it had only been manufactured six months before the problem, but they’re in the business of selling as many low-quality items as they can and ignoring customers with problems.

• Get one with a metal chute and manual crank-style adjustment. The cheap plastic joystick-style (both manual and electric) adjustments are the first point to fail on these.

All those things are extremely mild, and won't do anything.
Start with a non-chemical solution- Take the biggest pot you have and boil water. Spill it down the drain slowly. Won't cause reactions/gases and it will kill whatever this is and weaken it's structure / denature proteins / disinfect / melt away trapped fats.

If it's still there, use CLR. It's like vinegar on steroids. Vinegar is too dilute (usually 5%), and takes hours to work. CLR takes seconds to minutes.

TIP: do not use Lye, soda ash, Oxy-clean, or anything highly alkaline. They can react with substances already in your drain to cause hazardous fumes. I once created HBr this way- had to air out my apt for the whole night in the middle of winter will with all the windows open. I try to avoid Drano now because of this. Most plumbers will tell you to avoid it too.