(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best industrial tweezers

All in one session, all you need are the right tools and the right technique.

Tools:

Decal softener, a pair of tweezers with rounded tips ("2A" in this set), cotton swabs and those cotton rolls used by dentists.
Cotton rolls are amazing because they are compact and they are meant to absorb a lot of liquid without fraying.
My dentist gave me a bunch of rolls a year ago and i've used only one of them until now, i've cut one in half to obtain 2 little cotton rolls about the size of the last part of a pinky finger and i threw away the first one only because it was starting to get dirty.

Technique:

So far i've found this technique that works really well for me, keep in mind that some manufacturer use really thick decals (Hasegawa, Revell) that are more resilient to decal softener and manipuation while decals from other manufacturers or aftermarket decal sets use a really thin carrier that dissolves easily, this means that it's easier to tear or even smear the decal (i'm not kidding!).

Here's what i did on my Super Hornet

• Put a drop of decal softner on the model where the decal will be placed (warning: if you are using one of those really soft decals mentioned above use a drop of water instead of softner, add softner later once the excess water is removed and the decal is not moving around anymore)
  
• If the decal is thick enough place it in position using tweezers, otherwise use the classic "hold the decal and slide the paper from under it"
  
• Adjust the position of the decal using tweezers and absorbing the excess water from under it by touching the edges with a cotton swab
  
• Use the cotton swab to press the decal on surfaces full of details such as grills, this will remove water from under it and it will adapt the decal to the recesses.
  
• Use the cotton swab to remove the rest of water from under the decal by rolling it on the decal, from center to the outer edges.
  
• You can use the cotton roll instead of the cotton swab for the last two steps, specially if the decal is small enough to be covered by the cotton roll: gently place the roll on the decal and then press without moving.
  
  If some decals are really close to each other pressing the cotton roll to absorb excess water will help to avoid disturbing the other decals while maintaining a good adhesion. The cotton roll is big enough to cover most decals and act as a "pad" on the whole surface, pressing the decals evenly and removing any water that is squeezed out from under the decal.
  
  You will have to be creative with some decals, recently i had to put decals inside the intakes of the Super Bug and there was not enough space to insert tweezers, let alone removing excess water from the corners of the intakes with cotton rolls/swabs. I had to roll some kitchen paper and move it around with tweezers.
  
  A friendly reminder: Decals (not all of them) are mobile for some time after the decal is set, try not to touch them with your fingers and always avoid pulling/twisting movements with your tools for some time or (even better) once it's sealed under gloss paint
  

This tool kit has been amazing for me in 3D printing. I use the tweezers and especially the metal separator spatulas: those are perfect for getting out tricky supports. As a bonus the driver kit has every bizarre size bit you'll even need for repairing your printer (time and again.)

​

I also like to use soldering picks.

these are awesome! i've been using a regular pair of tweezers with my minis and making a mess. quick question, do you think the curved pair you shared here would be better than the straight pair or are they pretty much the same?

Not sure what you mean by 'feeding clip' but I'm assuming you want something to grab bugs with?

I use these for the mealworms and hornworms

some prefer the tongs

I like the angled onesand these have little rubber 'protector' tips

you learn pretty quick how to grab the bugs so the dragon won't bite the metal. but even if they do it's usually not a problem, every once in a while it happens, and mine haven't hurt themselves or broken teeth or anything.

there are plastic ones too, but they're not as sturdy and it really won't make a difference as far as if he bites it. I like the stainless steel ones, cause they can go in the dishwasher for sanitizing.

You could get these Wiha precision tweezers and have 84p to spare!

"But Seric, why would I want precision tweezers?"

I've no idea because I don't know you or the stuff you like.

Without some kind of steer, this open phrasing of: 'What's £20 and good?' comes off like you're feeling too lazy to look through the sub for something you like the sound of that costs ~£20. Most folks don't have the time or inclination to do the legwork for that kind of request. I enjoy helping people in this sub where I can, but without an area of interest there's little I can do.

Cooking them too hot (orange is ok, bright red or hotter is too high) will ruin them and can produce a nasty metallic taste.

Regarding the Clapton: In some cases, the wick can't transfer liquid fast enough to replace the juice being vaporized by the coil, either from too long of wick tails p much wick inside of the coil itself (can choke the coil) or from sharp bends in the cotton or compressed parts of the cotton. Either can restrict wicking, causing the wick touching the coil to singe. In tanks, something similar happens when the wick tails are too long or compressed.

Fluffing or 'combing' out the wick parts you've cut (cutting compresses the cotton a bit) and using really well-fluffed cotton will help reduce the chance of this occurring.

Take a cotton pad & leave the outsides on it; gently stretch and fluff it out from the sides, making it wider until you can nearly see through it. It'll end up pretty huge compared to what it originally looked like. Then, just cut off a bigger piece than you're used to & roll it gently to avoid compressing it.

I always pulse my coils, work out the hot spots, take the atomizer off and rinse the hell out of the coils themselves, let it sit until dry and reassemble/wick.

Your single wire build looks ok; as long as it doesn't have a metallic taste it shouldn't be an issue. It helps to shut the light off so you can see when it starts to glow a lot sooner.

I'd recommend ceramic tipped tweezers for getting the hotspots worked out of any springier coils, but coil master ceramic rods will work well for a lot of coils.

Edit: Original product OOS at Amazon, updated link.

I had an orb weaver living in my kitchen for a while, and I'd feed her small flies and later crickets from the pet store. I'd grab the crickets with a pair of plastic tweezers that came with my son's microscope.

I think what you're thinking of is slanted tweezers like these? But really, outside, they do a pretty good job getting their own food.

Here's a pic of my girl when she was still tiny. She floated in as a freshly hatched baby and I had her for almost two years until I finally got tired of dealing with the goddamn crickets (they stink and escape) and put her outside in my garden. It was great fun watching her grow up and grow fat though!

A set of tweezers would be the best tool to use.

https://smile.amazon.com/SE-TW2-406-6-Piece-Stainless-Tweezers/dp/B000VC57P0/

Only downsize is the cost. You could probably buy 10 of those spray bottles for the price of these tweezers. But I consider it a good investment to make.

If that doesn't work, have you tried taking it apart from the straw end? Maybe there's a way to push it out.

I have big fat clumsy hands so I use these utility tweezers. Love them. They make picking up beads easier due to the curved end.

General Tools & Instruments 415 Utility Tweezers, Curved Point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7TU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_cmc-wb09KK38M

esd-13 bent the ends like the one in the pic and works like a charm.

I use these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jeweltool-Curved-End-Tweezers-Silver/dp/B00KIMJUGA/

From a different brand but they look identical. You want angled over straight as it's easier to work with them.

You want these! They are awesome.
Tweezers, #h Dumont Hi-tech Antimagnetic - TWZ-302.43 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058EDIE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nOXkxb7H7RVW1

I cant stand the skewer style, i use straight tweezers, like http://www.amazon.com/a09101900ux0063-Straight-Watchmakers-Jewelers-Tweezers/dp/B0087ZTDQC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458963537&sr=8-2&keywords=watch+tweezers

You can get a pair of forceps/hemostats on Amazon for really cheap. They work really well for holding/dangling the food. You can also offer food by placing it in the cage and the snake will come get it themself. I place it on a plastic lid like a plate. She actually uses the edge of the lid to push the food into her mouth with. Plus, it prevents her from eating the substrate on accident. My kingsnake is receptive to both ways of feeding.

I spent the extra bux on the Halcyon blunt tipped... $11... Pretty good so far... I suspect they are the same but without the points at least... http://www.amazon.com/Halcyon-Premium-Tipped-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00SKPKKGG/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452480559&sr=1-13&keywords=ceramic+tweezers

Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/YUNAWU-Tweezer-Glasses-Optical-Professional/dp/B07JR3N9PN

Some cross locking tweezers make handing these a breeze! I noticed /u/BrownDustin using these in his how-to he did on them and immediately bought a set. So worth it for this and the many other uses in the build process.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TD1SYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get 5 more for about the same price.

Gorgon Loop KeyClip

MecArmy IllumineX-3 Copper

Uncle Bill's Silver Gripper

Zebra H52 Headlamp

Koh-I-Noor Lead Holder

Fluxmob Bolt Battery

Bellroy Slim Sleeve Wallet and Phone Case

The closest thing I could find are these and they’re only partially wooden. Probably smaller too

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TD1SYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rV2UCb4R8KQVY

I generally use a set of fine tip tweezers

You should get a pair of reverse tweezers, they pinch the J for you.

You'll need a solder pump and a reamer to get the broken pin out. Put the board in a vise/third-hand tool or whatever. You need to be able to work on both sides of it. Apply your soldering iron to one side and have the solder pump on the other. When the solder is melted you fire the pump and it will suck the solder and hopefully the pin out. You can use the reamer to make the hole a little bigger and get some tinned wire in there.

Solder sucker/pump

Soldering tools

The reamer is the second one from the left. I'm pretty sure RadioShack sells both.

I don't have much to add just going to go in to a bit more detail. I usually try to keep at least 2 or more of each screw or nut my drones use, that includes the motors, camera mount, ANY screw.

Loctite/thread locker will help but some times repeated hard crashes loosen screws and you may not realize it. With that said you don't want to use anything above blue Loctite such as red or green, you want to be able to get the screws off!

I also bought a ton of micro JST connectors and a crimper to repair balance lead connectors. This wouldn't be needed if you are diligent about keeping your battery wires away from your props, I was not, but some times it is unavoidable.

And the random things I keep around are; velcro, VHB tape, shrink tubing of various sizes(you can get assortments from Amazon), spare VTX pig tails, various sizes of silicone wire (26awg for ESC signal wire, 18ga wire for power and ground to ESCs, 14awg for power leads), flush cutters, different tipped tweezers, spare antenna cable for the receiver, servo leads, circlip pliers.

All that comes to mind at the moment but I am sure I am missing stuff. Here are some links!

Flush Cutters

26awg Silicone Wire

14awg Silicone Wire

VHB Tape

Micro JST Crimper

Micro JST Connectors

Circlip Pliers

Servo Connectors-not silicone

Tweezers