Reddit mentions: The best industrial tweezers

SAFETY GLASSES. Depending on how youre removing support material, those tiny peices of plastic can go flying, and I've ended up being saved by my blinking reflex more than once. Just get a cheap pair and use them. Support material will go flying towards your eyes, its not a safety cliche.

Everyone says to use a heat gun to clean up stringing(which can still occur even with near-perfect retraction settings, its just the nature of plastic.), but i prefer a butane pocket torch. Just quickly flicking the switch will vaporize the strings, without waiting for a loud heat gun to heat up, potentially warp your parts if theyre thin, and set it down to cool. Just dont hold a flame to your parts, they will ignite. A very brief(fraction of a second) flame works perfectly. If youre just using your printer for functional parts right now, dont worry about this.

A pair of curved tweezers for picking plastic off of the nozzle before/during(if youre OCD)/after a print (depending on how your cooler is setup). Side note- if your nozzle is really dirty, heat it up to ~200c and brush it with a wet qtip. Works great without scraping the nozzle with a wire brush.

X-acto blades #17 and #11. #17 is great for removing support material. Just please make sure youre not pushing the blade in the direction of your hand/leg/chest/eye/other body part.

As far as finishing prints- I've only used sandpaper, but a resin like xtc-3d is also popular.

Calipers. Get a nice pair of calipers.

As far as modding your printer.... https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/ has all the nuts & bolts you might need for great prices.

As far as software goes, I used to use simplify3d but after switching to slic3r prusa edition i think its amazing. Join https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunity/ and get chris warcocki's pretty PLA profiles for slic3r. Really great facebook group, they'll keep you updated on all the latest mk3 improvements/news

Oh, and get some isopropyl alcohol, at least 90%. Wipe down the bed with it after every single print. Occasionally wipe with acetone, but not too often.

As far as filament goes, everyone has different recommendations. Avoid makergeeks. Great filament, horrible company. Atomic is great, but $30/kg which is a bit much for daily PLA, especially if its just going to be used for light brackets or whatever. I've been trying lots of manufacturers and i just ordered some makeshaper, i'll update in a few days if its lives up to the expectations.


Youre going to love your mk3.

Seconded, also consider this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ - it's invaluable for PCBs. Just populate from one side, add something to hold stuff in place (like gaffa tape, or bend one lead, or clip on a sheet of paper, etc), turn over the PCB and start soldering away. I wouldn't want to miss mine.

Any soldering iron 40+W where you can regulate the temperature should do, I own a nice station but when I don't feel like breaking it out because it'd take longer to set it up than to do the job I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ set to 350°C. Just make sure to clean and tin your tip regularly and it will do the trick just fine Oh, but ditch the solder and get a few spools of good rosin core solder of different gauges, it's not expensive but worth it. In my experience, the solder that comes with kits like that mostly works as a deterrent.

If you're not planning on buying all-included kits also get a few spools of stranded core wire of different colors. You could use solid core wires but those tend to break if they're getting bended from movement without showing it. With stranded core some strands may break but as others don't they'll continue to work. Invisibly broken wires (i.e.) inside the isolation) are a *beeeeep* to debug.

Also, a set of tweezers are great to have, especially the kind that holds stuff together per default, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Curved-Tweezers-Cross-Jewelers-Soldering/dp/B000OVPG9A/ (only an example, I'd get a tweezers set that contains one like that).

In my experience a tool set like this one is great to have: https://www.amazon.com/Haobase-6Pieces-Double-sided-Soldering-Assist/dp/B01DLX6V3C/ - especially the bending tool is great to have, as it allows eg to bend the leads of a LED without running the risk of breaking the LED itself. It's also great in order to clean up mistakes, helps with desoldering and such

Speaking of desoldering: desoldering braid is a must. A desoldering pump can be useful, too. And yes, practice soldering and desoldering until you can do both without destroying anything.

If you're not going to buy pre-drilled enclosures then you very likely want a) a center punch and b) stepping drill bits. Those let you drill holes in all kinds of sizes without having to buy lots of drills.

Last but not least a wire cutter is a must

sure fused Claptons are great! but thats gonna ohm out very low in dule coil, 0.3ohm to 0.2 mabey lower, can your mod/battery handle that? if the answer to that is im not sure... dont do it!!! first go read more about ohms law and battery's . i dont want you blowing your mod up ;)

ok time for many links

TOOOOOOOOLS!

hook nose/needle nose tweasers for wicking

ceramic tweezers for coils

more ceramic tweezers these ones come with a coil jig!

wire cutters you need to get flush cutters so you can trim as close to the deck as posible

coil jig

alternatively you can go for a tool kit with everything in this one is legit good and even comes with some wire and cotton, the other cheaper versions like the ones i own are knock off's of this one and while usable are just not as good.

WIRE!

ok so your all jazzed on fused claptons but as its your first builds that may not be wise so here are some options, remember the lower the number the bigger the wire and therefore the lower the ohm.

kanthal 24g plain kanthal nice thick gauge good for beginners!

clapton 26g thin higher ohm clapton

clapton 24g thicker lower ohm clapton

fused clapton 2x24g big huge super low ohm fused Clapton, looks kinda funky but thats just how premade fused comes, i usually spin mine in a drill with pliers to take the twist out and make it easier to wrap.

staple wire incorectly labeled as alien this is staple/faltpton wire also super low ohm, its stacked ribbon wire with a Clapton around it

WICK!

fast cotton

cheap cotton

ok so theese are the same cotton almost exactly the difference being the fast option will get to you sooner, the cheap option is a huge bulk amount for a vastly reduced price but it will take a while to get to you like maybe a few weeks.

once you've got all that shit together its time to coil n wick.

coiling is easy so i wont cover that.
wicks can be a little tricky

1. take a cotton pad and cut a 4-6mm wide strip following the groove in the cotton,
   
   its important to have enough cotton to be snug in the coils ( to help it stop burning and wick enough juice otherwise dry hits)
   
   but not enough to jam up the wicking holes in the deck stoping the juice flowing up and giving you dry hits ... its a fine line
   
   
2. remove the top and bottom lair
   
   
3. roll it into a tube between your fingers
   
   
4. pinch the end and roll into a point then insert it into your coils
   
   
5. trim the ends
   
   
6. prime the wicks and coils with some juice
   
   
7. push them down into the wick holes
   
   jobs done vape on!
   
   hope this was helpful if you have any other questions go nuts
   
   i actually really enjoyed this youve kept me sane through a very long shift at work ;)

First time posting here! I consider myself a watch enthusiast with a small but meaningful collection. I was talking to a friend on vacation and he showed me a watch he built. I got inspired and did some research to get ideas.

I found this post on reddit and felt like I had to try it myself.


After watching this video, I went to ebay, Amazon, and Esslinger to get started.

[Movement] (https://www.ebay.com/itm/P439-Parnis-Watch-Kit-Classic-17-Jewels-Asian-Hand-Winding-6498-Watch-Movement/182498551716?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)

Case

Dial

Hands

Strap

Helpful tools:

Screwdriver set

Tweezers

Case Cushion

Dust Blower

Hand presser

Rodico

I'd also highly recommend some gloves and patience! You definitely need to be careful with the hands as they are delicate and you really need to push straight down to get them on there.

I'm still not sure if I like the crown, but I'm pretty happy overall!

I hope this inspires others to give it a try.

http://www.amazon.com/MUJI-Makeup-Facial-Cotton-Unbleached/dp/B00VHA3ZXQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Graham-Professional-Cellucotton-Beauty-Rayon/dp/B018IYY3I4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I've been wicking with those cotton pads and rayon for a while and I haven't died yet / think they both work well.

http://www.amazon.com/Ball-Bearing-Swivels-Size-230lb/dp/B00ROFQXSM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

If you want to make claptons and have a vice (or want to rig up something to hold the bearings in place maybe with clamps on the edge of a table or something) in your work space you can keep the other end of the wire straight (while allowing it to rotate) with bearings, they help a lot, i think i have size 5. Just a thought, not a necessity.

Also consider 28g kanthal as well. It's pretty nice for twisted builds, and even a simple coil with a 3mm id and tons of wraps (like 12 to 14) has a lot of flavor from all the surface area. 26 is nice but I think it's a little warmer and has a little less flavor for me. I use 26 in some atomizers with more airflow though since the 28 can sometimes be too cool (I like 28 in a velocity though.. well I have some 27 as well I actually like that size but since the 28 seems to be my favorite for twisted I thought I'd recommend the 28).

I broke my coil master coil set tweezers (think the tips got brittle) and just replaced them instead of the tips with these and they are nice and flat and work well (and look cool)
http://www.amazon.com/Authentic-InnoVaper-Precision-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B018QRVWU0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Thanks! Glad I could be helpful.

The reflow station/solder paste is just awesome. The results are so much better than the hand soldering I tried to do initially.
My tips for the hot air reflow- Keep the air speed low (I do 1.5 - 1.75 speed @ 350c), you don't want to send the components sliding around the PCB. You only need a tiny dab of solder paste on a tinned board, otherwise you'll end up with little balls of solder where the excess collects. These can be knocked off with tweezers, but you should be careful to check for them as they can cause shorts.

I forgot one of the most useful tools out there! This is maintained by one of the FB Euro SMD DIY Noobs members.

This is the repository I use for .hex files. It's maintained by another SMD Noobs member.

These are the tweezers I use for handling SMD parts.

You'll also want a flux pen! Flux pens are wonderful.

I'd also suggest a magnifying glass or jeweler's loup of some sort for inspecting the PCB for shorts. I use a 10x loupe.



Here's a pic of my current workspace in an unusually clean state.

My SMD component filing technique. A work in progress.

Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions.

A few things before you get started:

1. Be careful when cutting parts from the sprue.
   
   
2. Make sure you have the right tools for example, Xacto knife, some sandpaper/emery boards, model glue (have both thin and thick types), and filler.
   
   
3. Take your time and work under good light. A bright desklamp is very useful.
   
   
4. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. Buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine as the ones from hobby store. For acrylic paints, use water or isopropyl alcohol as a thinner. For enamel, use paint thinner.
   
   
5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. For example, when doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, assemble and paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it all together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint and you can get to spots you won't be able to get to easily get to once assembled.
   
   
6. A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:
   

• A fine point tweezers. Something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Length-Anti-magnetic-Straight-Curved-Tweezers/dp/B00BG8WW2Y/
  
• Toothpicks
  
• Cotton swabs
  
• Compressed air can
  
• If you don't have good light in where ever you setup to work, get a good desk lamp
  
• A cutting mat like this: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0015AOIYI/
  
  

7. Don't expect your first model to be perfect. My first models were terrible but I learned a lot from the mistakes. I highly recommend getting some good, but cheap kits and just building them to get experience. You'll get better as you build more kits.
   
   
8. ALWAYS research the kit before buying. Look for reviews and get a kit based on that. Don't just rely on brand names. For example, most of Airfix's old mold kits are pretty bad, but their newer mold kits are quite good and good value for the money.

Hit up amazon, get yourself some kanthal, ceramic tweezers, and japanese cotton, if you want to make it super easy, coil jig too. 26g is decently thick, which is going to give you more surface area and lower resistances, make sure you build within safe limits. 0.5-0.8 is a good target for when youre starting out, then you can get onto more advanced stuff like dual coils, twisted coils, etc. My current build is a triple twisted 28g dual coil build on my velocity, reads out at 0.3 and at 60w does great.

My recommendation is instead of having the coil sit between the two posts like yours is now, position it to one side or the other which is going to reduce spitback when you up the wattage.

Check out a couple youtube vids on coil building, and try it out.

http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-20-pcs-Japanese-Cotton/dp/B00ROA2QD8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457346067&sr=8-3&keywords=26g+kanthal

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Luckybh-Ceramic-Tweezers-Resistant/dp/B011L9QGKG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1457346097&sr=8-10&keywords=ceramic+tweezer
http://www.amazon.com/NEW--Coil-Jig--Best-Seller/dp/B0153WVTHC/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1457346218&sr=8-37&keywords=coil+jig

I'm not sure where you've been looking to buy from, but I've put in a few orders here: http://www.hamabeads.com/beads_mini_beads.htm

Its about 1 euro (~$1.33) per bag which is 2000 beads, and as far as shipping goes, its not terrible for the US you just have to find the sweet spot. Add a few bags see if shipping went up, if it did, remove a bag or 2 and see if it went back down. Just try to make sure your price per bag, or bead whichever you prefer, with shipping included, is where you feel comfortable paying. One thing that really surprised me about mini beads is that they vary is size quite a bit, but when melting, since they're so thin, it doesn't make a difference. Made me panic a little the first time using them. Also, the boards are flimsy and melt quick, thankfully the beads melt real quick too, I've only lost 1 board so far, and its still usable for small stuff.

I'd suggest picking up a set of pointed tweezers to work with these beads something like this. Don't quote me on this exact pair, just an example. I couldn't imagine placing these beads by hand.

I actually have that set you linked because I needed ceramic tweezers and it was only $5 more for the kit. I like it a lot, everything seems to work really well and overall I have no complaints. It isn't the highest of build quality - the clippers aren't the best and the case gets some loose threads - but for the price it's hard to beat. The two things I've added to it is some curved tweezers I already had (just like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9N5GUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dtwVBbQH8XQSP) for raking the cotton and pushing it into the juice well since that's tough to do with the ceramic tweezers, and also a multi tool with small screwdrivers since the included ones were too big for the post screws on my attys. I really like having a case for all my coil building stuff and I don't have the coil master one so I can't compare them, but this one suits my needs perfectly. Just let me know if you have any questions about it and I'll do my best to answer!

Disclaimer: In this video I'm lubing a linear switch but if you're lubing a tactile switch, you might want to skip lubing the legs of the stem and the leaf bumps, because this decreases the tactility of the switch.

This video shows what I do when I lubricate keyboard switches with grease and a paintbrush. This video can even help someone who doesn't know anything about lubing keyboard switches and just wants to see what it involves and how they could get started.

​

I will go slowly in the video, trying to be sure you can see what I'm doing.

​

My choices of where to apply lube are based on experience and on the results of an experiment I did and documented here:

https://imgur.com/gallery/hijSYcp

​

I wanted to show 2 different ways to open the switch, using a special opener tool or using regular tweezers. Both methods work fine.

​

The grease I typically use for this method is Tribosys 3204, which you can purchase from keyboard vendors such as switchmod.net, novelkeys.xyz, 1upkeyboards.com, etc. Other greases I like to use are Krytox 205g0 and Christo Lube MCG 129.

​

Tools:

Painbrush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4EG6D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Tweezers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPFQHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

4 Prong Pick-Up Tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3KZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Switch Opener tool: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_mx.html

​

In case you are opening Halo switches or BOX switches: https://kiiboss.studio/products/kiiopener_kailh.html

​

Acrylic switch holder / modding station: https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=525320012520

​

Or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Keyboard-Axis-Board-for-Machanical-Keyboard-Black-Axis-Blue-Brown-Red-Gray-Green-White-Axis-Acrylic/32802439596.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.37e34c4dgCIZli

​

A 3d printed option: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3294929

• Herb- Cumin, I love it in my salsa and guacamole (all of you with your dirty minds-stop ha)
  
  
• Here is me with one of my favorite friends :)
  
  
• Hobbies include reading, maintaing and growing my library, maintaining my 28 gallon aquarium which includes trimming the plants. I love playing golf although I haven't played much lately I do consider it one of my hobbies
  
  
• Under $10

I'll add a few things on top of the already good advice in the thread:

• Get a set of tweezers
  
  I don't know how large your hands/fingers are but depending on how complicated the wiring is you may have difficulties threading wire through lugs at times. Tweezers are invaluable for this. I have these.
  
  
• I find that solid core wire is easier to work with than stranded.
  
  
• Consider creating some wire leads from your electronics to the pickups so you don't have to worry about cutting the pickups wire (just in case).
  
  
• GET BREATHING PROTECTION
  
  
• I find it easier to deal with grounds all together. Consider a star ground. I made a spider ground in my SG and it really saved a lot of time and headache.

I have one pair of Wiha tweezers that are my favorite, but they are really expensive. Like $20 a pair... https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-44501-Professional-Dissipative-Allergenic/dp/B0009K3IAK/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1491399696&sr=8-18&keywords=esd+tweezers

I own some "PIXNOR" brand tweezers from Amazon, and while they will still bend they are much stronger and sharper out of the box than other cheap brands. I think they were like $2 a pair.

Have you tried the ones with ceramic tips? I don't own these particular ones but they look to be ceramic. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-ESD-Tweezers-PTZ-41-Japan/dp/B002F9MQMO

I have this

The zipper is crap but I like to wear it on charity rides because children love it.

yeah, go for it. what i do is put a plate in my aquarium and pour the water on it slowly. then it doesn't splash up the dirt/sand.

once the aquarium is full, when/if you vacuum the sand, just hover your vacuum right over the sand, it will pull up the fish poop but leave your sand alone. there may be some sand pulled into your bucket, but it is what it is.

when planting, get yourself a nice set of long tweezers off amazon.

like these!! it helps keep the substrate from being churned up, and it makes it so much neater and easier to plant stems deep.

Try to find out somehow. You could maybe measure it in inches and do the conversion. As long as the inner diameter of the banger is at least 2mm larger than the insert, it will allow you to grab them with the tweezers. I bought these tweezers and they really make the insert experience worlds easier. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OVPG9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_th8EAbGSJ0QQF

From what you wrote, I think this would be a perfect solution. And it would only cost around $8. One thing I'll add on carb caps is I have found bubble caps to not work nearly as well with inserts as a directional cap that sits flat and rotates.

Not sure what you mean by 'feeding clip' but I'm assuming you want something to grab bugs with?

I use these for the mealworms and hornworms

some prefer the tongs

I like the angled onesand these have little rubber 'protector' tips

you learn pretty quick how to grab the bugs so the dragon won't bite the metal. but even if they do it's usually not a problem, every once in a while it happens, and mine haven't hurt themselves or broken teeth or anything.

there are plastic ones too, but they're not as sturdy and it really won't make a difference as far as if he bites it. I like the stainless steel ones, cause they can go in the dishwasher for sanitizing.

You want to make all your friends jealous? flux pen.

Particularly when you have a fancy board like this with solder mask, just hold any surface mount parts in place, dab the pads with your flux, and solder away with the biggest chisel tip you have. The fun part is not telling anyone how easy it is ;)

Kinda overkill to use for Nintendo Switch shell replacement. Some of that stuff you get with that bundle would only be necessary for some invasive smartphone repair.

I instead got this cheaper kit (which is still pretty overkill to use on the Switch but is a good kit to have for all your electronic repair needs) plus this tweezer set. Buying these would save $20.

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

I love it, but someone get this man some 7SA Tweezers. lol.

Also, I recommend a silicone baking sheet to work on. Prevents table damage way more than thermal tape. =)

For disassembly, I'll cast another vote for the 64 bit iFixit set. Bits are reasonably durable CrV. For individual bits that wear out quicker (looking at you, Y000), they also sell 4mm replacement bits if you don't feel like abusing their rather generous replacement program. The handle is second to none, but it's worth noting it is a bit beefier than the Wiha 40mm drivers.

If I were trying to do a repair as efficiently as possible, I'd use the iFixit set 100 times out of 100 for disassembly. Wiha is a bit more agile on the reassembly where the handle diameter doesn't matter as much. I've bought another iFixit aluminum handle to keep my PH00/PH000 from needing to be removed all the time and basically mothballed the Wihas and treated the bits as semi-disposable. That's not to say the iFixit bits are trash, but when you work hundreds of screws a day for a month that are of varying conditions due to previous repair, burning a Y000/PH000 a month isn't the worst thing in the world.

If you treat tweezers reasonably well and don't use them to pry every-fucking-thing, I love Hakko's sub-brand, CHP. 7A-SA for common repairs (screens, charge ports, etc) and 3C-SA for microsoldering applications.

Last, but not least: If you're doing iPhone standoff screws (i4/i4s/i5/i5c/i5s/i6(+)/i7(+)/i8(+)) with a flathead, buy a standoff bit/driver. Now. Even the cheap $2 ones put a flathead to shame. You'll kick yourself for not getting one sooner. The newest revision of the 64-bit iFixIt set includes one, but there are a lot of early adopters that are out on the cold on this one. Just buy the bit already. Seriously.

If you get the Fluvial Spec V, a baffle is a must! Reddit user /u/zeetu made a cool 3d printed one you can buy. Your local fish store will have some sponges you could zip tie together too.

Other considerations:

Gravel cleaner, tank cleaner (to scrape the sides), water conditioner, net (in case you have to move your guy), bucket for water (large paint ones from home depot are great).

Personally, I like having a long pair of tweezers around so I can move stuff around the tank without getting my hands soaked.

I think the betta hammocks you can find in the betta fish section are great too. My dude only uses it when i'm around—otherwise he hangs out by the intake filter in my Fluvial Spec V :p

edit: some people don't like the 'hammocks' because they have a small metal wire in them. It's not too difficult to rip them out with a pair of pliers and razor blade if you're worried about that.

Something like this.

Super low tolerances on jeweler's tweezers and they are incredibly helpful for a lot of situations.

They are pretty cool they are reverse action tweezers. You squeeze them to open. Saves my hands on long stents on modeling.

On the tracks I have to be patient other wise I might become a patient in the loony bin.

Oh and I have a set of tweezers like This to help me set the beads in place. They really make a difference and help you to go faster.

FWIW, I use this thing to reset Pro Micros.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-7A-SA-Stainless-Non-Magnetic-Heavy-Duty/dp/B00FZPFF96?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It's not what bought it for, but works perfectly for shorting RST and GND on Pro Micros.

These ones are $2...

http://www.amazon.com/Length-Anti-magnetic-Straight-Curved-Tweezers/dp/B00BG8WW2Y/

Looks just like the set I have. They're great.

I think if you're able to financially, you should try and get something more in the mid-range. I have a feeling that this 15 dollar iron is going to be wildly inconsistent in keeping it's temp up and make it extremely difficult for you to get good solder joints. I would recommend something like this.

As far as other accesories go, I would grab a "Helping Hands" a head band magnifier and some nice small tweezers.

Practical Watch Repairing by Donald de Carle. It's a good start. It goes into detail about some of the tools. You'll need tweezers these are awesome and affordable. You'll need good quality screw drivers, the dollar store kind will damage the screws. Mobious oil is really good. It might look expensive, but a tiny bottle will go a long way. A movement holder will make things easier. And you'll need a magnifier of some kind. I'll send you a picture of my set up tomorrow. I'm poor, so I can't afford swiss tools. Like $100 for a single scewdriver.

62 cents? I'm US, so if there are any extra shipping costs, count me out and gift the UKers :)

when i see this it is usually tamped into the port tightly enough that it's actually a bit difficult to remove. the best tool is curved, very sharp tweezers like these
https://www.amazon.com/Length-Anti-magnetic-Straight-Curved-Tweezers/dp/B00BG8WW2Y

Get a good pair of needle tweezers for things like this. (Amazon link for ifix it tweezers)

Get some of these. It will change your (planted tank) life! No more fat fingers trying to wedge delicate plant stems into the substrate! :)

Edit: not saying you have fat fingers, it just feels like my fingers are fat little sausages when trying to insert plants into substrate! ;3

> Band aids tend to fall off quick in the shop,

Speaking of band-aids...
I found these fabric ones to stay stuck really well. Strong enough to rip your skin off if you get impatient removing it.

For tweezers, I like these ones used for placing surface mount components.

This is going to be one of the best prices you will find for quality tweezers online. http://astore.amazon.com/dantcomthinth-20/detail/B00BG8WW2Y

I find these tweezers to work really well when beading, Imgur which are really cheap on amazon

Thank you, btw for the comparison post.

A good set of small screwdrivers, some sort of wire cutters, cotton, and a good pair of tweezers (preferably with ceramic tips)

Here's the list of all the tools I got:

Tweezers- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0028C9IMO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hand presser/lifter- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748HZTMH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Case opener- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058EDAUA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Clippers for cutting the stem- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-End-Cutting-Pliers-Nippers-4-quot-Electrical-Wire-Cutter-Jewelry-Tool-Allied-/322393033884?txnId=2067048388011

Magnifyer (loupe)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LDG2HQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Magnifyer holder- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079CBLTDG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Case cushion- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GPH2M6X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Silicone grease (for the o-ring)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058ED3MA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Rodico (for picking up dust)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008YMGYBU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You'll also need a set of jewelers screwdrivers and files, which I already had, and some nitrile gloves or finger cots so you dont get oil and dirt from your hands onto the movement. I've also seen other people recommend getting a movement holder to hold onto the movement while you attach the dial and hands.

This tool kit may be more than you want to spend, but mine is an amalgam of random stuff that just lasts. I built this kit over 3 years ago and the only thing I've replaced is the Hakko bent tweezers because I used to abuse them. It is my opinion that good tools pay for themselves if you do something regularly with them.

Phillips Driver: Moody 000

Pentalobe: Wiha PL1

Opening tool that I've sharpened into a square blade on one end and a standoff screw remover on the other: Metal spudger

Used to be more relevant when I did more gen 2/3/4 iPads for quick bezel cleaning: 3/32 stubby flathead

Curved tweezers (so many uses): Hakko

Spudgers that last (unless you really abuse them): Menda

Best Y000 for iPhones I've found so far (this one I'm not married to): Bunkaikoubou

The flat file in this set: File

One of those cheap driver sets for bigger stuff like torx, etc. I don't work on stuff that really beats those bigger bits up, so I buy a cheap set for that.

Any dental pick for getting shit out of charge ports, etc.

Edit: I'm sure you can shop around and find cheaper prices, and I also do not claim these are the absolute best tools, just that my set of this stuff has lasted over 3 years and I repair mobile devices full time.

$4 tier

$3 tier

$2 tier

Ty for the contest!

The official perler mini tweezers look like they are the same as the electronics anti-static tweezers you see around, but I'm not sure if they are. I have a set of these https://www.amazon.com/PIXNOR-Anti-static-Electronics-Jewelry-making-Laboratory/dp/B019SLLOMY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473198696&sr=8-3&keywords=esd-15 that work really well - they're meant for electronics work so they are anti-static.

uxcell Curved Tweezers Jewelers Craft Hobby Beading Hand Tool

Pack of 10 x 1 ml Industrial Syringes with 18G x 1-1/2" Blunt Tip Fill Needle and plastic cover

I got them from Amazon.

Hand puller and press

Case back tool
Tweezers

They aren't top quality tools, but they work fine.

Just my kitchen table. Helping hands is a must. Also, you want to invest in some of these and these.

I’m going to ask, you did pull out the stopper and even if you see a small amount of hair you pull it out. Just mentioning because it can turn into a giant hairball that with tweezers keeps coming out.

Edit: I use something like this. SE 513TW 12-Inch Stainless Steel Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T68ZUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vqm2Db5AX64AG

No need to splurge, here is a set of 7 tweezers for 11 bucks.

I have used this set with much success, though I basically only use the angled ones second from the bottom in the product image.

oh and these for sure. https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Anti-static-Electronics-Jewelry-making-Laboratory/dp/B019SLLOMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467918141&sr=1-3&keywords=tweezers+precision

> I am looking for tools that I will need for general printing and maintenance

Set of tweezers to remove stringy plastic oozing from extruder, soft wire cutter makes snipping end of filament a breeze, assorted m3-m6 hex nuts and bolts will come in handy. Maybe some combination wrenches

And if you want to run octoprint, a raspberri pi, camera, & power supply.

Not sure what you were looking at, but these should work fine...

Maybe I went a little overboard, but I bought a set of small pliers from Lowe's and this set of tweezers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EE4XXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are fairly sturdy, haven't had any issues using them in a PC repair environment.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000T68ZUM?keywords=Medical%20tweezers&qid=1457476368&ref_=sr_1_11&sr=8-11

I use a pair of [Texas chopsticks ]( SE 513TW 12-Inch Stainless Steel Tweezers by SE http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T68ZUM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ukkhtb12237WN ). You can get them with coated tips about a dollar more, but I prefer without.

tweezers with a needle point (like these), you can put them down into the front, and then use it to 'screw' the screen back in.