Reddit mentions: The best internal blu-ray drives

No problem at all! It's fun to talk about, one of my favorite parts of PC gaming, even. 4k gaming is a little more complicated than just being able to run the resolution. The build we looked at before is probably about as close as you can get to the Scorpio with PC parts based on what we know. The new one that you just posted, there are a couple tweaks you could use to make it a better deal, but it's pretty similar. Both of them would probably perform like the scorpio. The problem is, that doesn't REALLY mean that either they or the upcoming console is really suited for 4k in all cases. Usually running at a resolution that high means also turning down other effects like texture particle details. The XBox/Playstation would handle that for you, as developers would have kinda pre-chosen how they want it to work. On the PC, you have to choose for yourself - both a freedom and a chore. Assuming the RX 480 build I have a PC very similar, but I only own 1080p displays. It gets ultra settings at 1080p to anywhere from 60 to 120fps depending on the game. In simple-to-run games such as Overwatch (maybe), League of Legends, Rocket League, etc, you could get 4k pretty easily. As the games get more detailed and complicated - like the Assassin's Creed line or GTA, then 4k gets harder and settings need nerfs pretty quick to get decent framerates (over 40-50 to push 60 fps). So these games won't actually be rendered in native 4k from the Scorpio (most likely) but instead will be scaled-up using clever resolution tricks for the most part, while SOME will play at native 4k.

Either of these graphics cards, though the RX 480 is a bit cheaper and generally a bit better - and the new RX 580 is expected to launch in about a week - can stream 4k and render 4k from physical or digital media, so you can playback your movies no problem. An internal optical drive for blurays would probably run about $50 USD So that shouldn't really sway your decision too much. Most of us really don't use discs anymore, though, so you'll see a lot of people skip this part. But if you want to use blu-ray, don't let that stop you.

To get real 4k, 60 fps, ultra settings today on everything, you would NEED a graphics card like an overclocked GTX 1080Ti, which would run over $700. That's why people are always so skeptical of inexpensive consoles advertising 4k. With companies like AMD making components for both consoles and PCs, it's perfectly understandable that they can optimize tech for consoles and get a bit more out of it, but they're not going to invent something completely new and extraordinary and not also sell it for PCs, which makes it a bit of an equalizer.

This was a quick stab at putting something together that I think would work well. It's very similar to what you've already looked at. Some notes to go with it: I've included a much better power supply in this than I have in mine. You could get a cheaper one, but don't go too cheap. It's the one piece that COULD present safety issues for you and your other components. Just about any brand's version of a particular graphics card are practically identical, so basically just go with the one you can get the best deal on. (i.e. Asus RX 480 with 8GB is not really different from MSI's RX 480 w/ 8GB, is not really different from Saphire's). r/buildapcsales can help you find good deals on individual pieces. I've had good luck on eBay for graphics cards (GPUs), solid state drives (SSDs), and cases and case fans. You could probably find a blu-ray drive there too to save some money. I've also done well there with CPUs and motherboards, but where I've included the Ryzen 5 in this build, the processor just released earlier this week, so you're unlikely to find much on there now. However, if you went with an i5-7600k CPU and a z270 motherboard, you may be able to strike a deal.

It's hard to really say I guess. Normally PCs are a better gaming performance for the money, but that probably won't be necessarily true THIS year. I guess I would encourage you to decide if you'd rather have a PC or a console and then act accordingly. Building and tweaking a PC is seriously a lot of fun, but it may not be for everybody. We'd love to have you onboard here at PCMR if you'd join us.

Your google-fu is weak;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00D3IKKVA/ref=asc_df_B00D3IKKVA18250740?smid=A5Y5ZDGV1AKXL&tag=pricerunner-ce-3p-21&linkCode=df0&creative=22242&creativeASIN=B00D3IKKVA&ascsubtag=uk,27816,SEO,35,google;f0120409ba673673d3b6c8cdf09c7ccf

For reference, I paid 115$ for mine, and at 79 pounds the conversion rate is equal to about 133$.

You said you were planning on overclocking in another reply of yours, if that's the case I recommend the i5 4670k (Pretty sure you said you added it to your parts list in the other reply). If that's the case, I would recommend either the NZXT Kraken X40; http://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-Technologies-Premium-Performance-RL-KRX40-01/dp/B00ANJRTYS (98£) if you want to use a closed loop CPU cooler (you'll need a case that has 140mm fan mounts for the X40, but other CLC's use 120mm fans which makes them quite a bit louder, so it's a fair trade-off)

Or, the Noctua NH-D14; http://www.amazon.co.uk/NH-D14-Processor-LGA1366-LGA1156-LGA1155/dp/B002VKVZ1A (66£) if you want to go the air-cooling route. The NH-D14 comes with two 140mm fans and has mounts for 120mm and 140mm fans should you decide to change them out; personally, I wouldn't recommend doing that, since the two fans that come with it are some of the best 140mm PWM fans on the market, and because they too will be quieter in operation than their 120mm alternatives.

In reality, an NH-D14 will be fine for overclocking. It may max out at 95c in synthetic benchmarks, but in reality, you could game in the high 70's/low 80's, depending on ambient temperature, at 4.2-4.4Ghz, depending on how your chip performs. As long as the core voltage isn't over 1.25, you'll be fine. If you want something with a little bit better temperatures, or with more headroom to overclock, the NZXT Kraken X40 is the way to go.

It all depends on how much you want to spend, but the cheapest overclocking setup I could recommend to you, with the Asrock H87 Fatal1ty motherboard, i5-4670k, and NH-D14, buying all of these components off of Amazon, (Link for the i5 4670k; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Graphics-BX80646I74770-Generation-Technology/dp/B00CO8TBOW (167£) would be an extra 125£ cost for your budget, bringing your total to 685£. Not to mention you'd need a higher-wattage PSU, something in the 700-750 watt range, like the Seasonic X-750 Fully Modular PSU; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-X-750-module-ATX12V-Supply/dp/B002VAFDQS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1397013585&sr=1-1&keywords=SeaSonic+SS-750KM3 (140£)

So, to build an overclocking system, with solid, name brand, quality components all the way around, it'd cost you 230£ extra, bringing your total cost to 790£, or 1325$ american. And that's if you get the NH-D14. With the NZXT Kraken X40, with another fan on it along with the fan it comes with, would be 840£, or 1400$ american. Without the extra fan it'd be 820£; 1375$

And with the PCI wireless card it'd be 855£; add a blu-ray combo drive and a 770 instead of a 760, and it's 950£

Or, you could just get the i5 4670, the fastest locked quad-core i5 at 3.4Ghz, for 158£, which with the PCI adapter would bring your build total to 595£, or just under one thousand dollars american. With the Blu-ray drive also it'd run you about 645£, bringing your grand total to 1080$ american.

The reason I spent the last two hours reading reviews, looking up links, and sorting through statistics, is because I wanted to show that overclocking is not cheap. You'd be paying another 320$ american, or 192£, for another 10-20% performance. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm just trying to illustrate the true cost associated with it. Not to mention that for the NH-D14 or the NZXT x40, you'd need to move up to a full-size case, which would add further to the cost. My point is, that if you're new to this and just want a capable gaming machine for 1080p, you'd be much better off just getting the 4670, wireless card, and blu-ray combo drive; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-BC-12D2HT-Blu-ray-Combo-Drive/dp/B00F0SQL6O/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1397014362&sr=1-6 (50£).

If this is something that really interests you, that you know you're going to invest a lot of hours in and not get bored of, then go ahead and pull the trigger on the overclocking build. If you do, it'd be worth it to save up enough to get a 770 instead of a 760, since it's about 10-20% ahead of the 760, performance wise. Your total cost would be 950-1000£.

tl;dr If you want a nice rig, use the i5 4670, get the wireless card and blu-ray combo drive, and have fun. If you want to turn this into a hobby, and you're willing to spend time (and a whole lot more money) on it, then get the 4670k, AsRock Fatal1ty H87, NH-D14, Seasonic X-750, and 770. And the wireless card and Blu-ray combo drive.

I hope I've fully illustrated the pros and cons of overclocking. It's not for everyone, and to be totally honest it can be the motherfucking-est pain in the ass at times (from mounting big-ass heavy heatsinks and spending hours researching technical details, and ultimately developing a huge knowledge and understanding of the subject that you can't talk about with anyone besides people on the internet) but in all honesty, I love it. You might too. I just wanted to be totally honest and up-front about the extra cost and difficulties, because it's totally fine if it's not something you'd want to get into.

> I want to play co op lego games with my nieces and nephews, I want to play split screen with my mates, then watch a bluray with my mrs of an evening

Lego with the little guys? Got it! Even checked to make sure they were local co-op.

http://store.steampowered.com/tag/en/LEGO/#p=0&tab=NewReleases

You'll probably have to go a bit outside your comfort zone for local co-op with friends, but that is also a dying feature for consoles too. However, if you're cool with some indie games... Gotta recommend Samurai Gunn specifically. That game is god damn amazing! You and your friends will fuckin' die laughing while you deflect bullets, cut off each others heads, jump up walls, get impaled on spikes, and crushed by big ass boxes.

http://store.steampowered.com/tag/en/Local%20Multiplayer/#p=0&tab=NewReleases

Blu-Ray? Got it!

http://www.amazon.com/LG-Internal-UH12NS30-Blu-ray-Optical/dp/B00DVTBM2W/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464408621&sr=1-2&keywords=blu+ray+drive

> I want to do this on the big screen, in the living room, on my couch not alone at a desk in another room on a smaller screen

BAM! Use the controller you already have. Wireless from the couch, no problem. Just plug it in and go.

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Adapter-Windows-one/dp/B00ZB7W4QU

Use an HDMI cable to plug that bad boy up to your TV, son!

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SSD0/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1464408385&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+cable

Need to use the mouse for a second while your on the couch? Shit, we got you!

http://controllercompanion.com/

And if that ain't enough, wireless keyboard and mouse is like $20.

> I want to swap games with my friends

Yeah, bro. Us too.

http://store.steampowered.com/promotion/familysharing

> I want to play offline

Got you fam.

https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=3160-agcb-2555

> I want to buy discs

Then buy them. Amazon and Gamestop and every other big store sells discs too.

http://www.walmart.com/browse/video-games/pc-games/2636_1077504_1225011

http://www.target.com/c/pc-games-video/-/N-5xtfw

> I want to do all this quickly, easily and consistently and I don't want to spend a months wages, and more every 6 months, to do so

Building the computer is as simple as building a lego set. It takes a couple hours to initially set up, but it only needs done once. After that, it's just as easy as pressing the home button on your xbox to launch steam big picture and choose your favorite game to play.

PCs will be more than a console upfront. You will spend more than $300 on a PC, but not much more unless you want to. If you factor in the price of a couple games and a year of XBOX live or PSN, PC is already cheaper.

Plus, where are you going to find sales like this? http://www.gameois.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/steamos-sale.jpg

They happen damn near constantly on PC. New game you want isn't on sale? No worries. Green Man Gaming has a 20% off coupon every month that can be applied to any game they have. Save yourself $12 right there without even needing a sale.

You don't have to upgrade any more frequently than you want. The consoles are on 2012 tech. Games will stay with that as a baseline until new consoles come out.

All that said, look here for a parts breakdown with prices of various price ranges: https://www.reddit.com/r/PCMasterRace/wiki/builds

I'd recommend The Crusher as a baseline, then maybe asking over at /r/buildapc if you need help or want to make changes. I know you said you don't like PCMR, which is fine... The circlejerk gets old for us too... But there a ton of great communities on reddit for this. Maybe try /r/pcgaming as it's a bit more mature.

One thing I will say about PCMR is that they are most goddamn generous sub out there. Constantly giving away games, components, monitors, etc. and surprisingly helpful, but you do have to get past the kids and the circlejerk to see that.

If you do decide to look into, like I said, /r/buildapc is a great resource to start and you can also free to PM me if you'd like.

Have a good one, brother!

First, thanks for the awesome response!

I have been very tempted by a 40+" screen; especially since I may be working with Sony soon and score an epic discount. ;) ;)

But I'm not entirely certain as to your direction with the three different monitors you suggested. Could you explain?

I am definitely interested in a three monitor setup; but more in doing an Eyefinity style where they are three identical 24" or 27" monitors.

RE: Thermal Paste...
Most definitely interested in getting some high quality thermal paste. The Corsair H series come with a thermal paste pre-applied... I've read decent/good reviews of the performance but replacing it would be a major win?

RE: Gentle Typhoons...
Absolutely. Definitely want to swap out case fans for better circulation and noise control. Gentle typhoons are the best balance for this?

RE: Uninterrupted Power Supply.
Big question here: If I go with a rig that exceeds the UPS wattage output and I lose power... what will happen? Will it just drain faster?

RE: Keyboard...
I'm having a very difficult time deciding on a keyboard. I saw the Black Widow Ultimate in store and did not like the feel of the keys. Maybe it would be different were I actually gaming with it. Fortunately, the LA Computer Fair is coming up soon and I will likely get to check out a bunch of different keyboards there.

RE: Mousepad.
Good to know, I was also looking at the Ratpadz XL. Thoughts?

RE: Mouse.
What would you recommend here? I have been looking at the Logitech G700.

RE: Speaker & Receiver.
I can score pretty much any speaker/receiver at manufacturing cost. With that known, what do you think I should go for? Also, I will be limited to gaming with headphones in the evening (have a pair of AKG K272HD for music, not too sure how good they will be for gaming)

I actually don't have a spare optical drive and was keen to pick up the Pioneer BDR-206DBK

RE: CPU...
Does the Hyperthreading on the 2600k not interfere with, and cause a reduction in performance, in some games?

RE: Mobo...
ASRock is a new company to me; though I have learned that they have been around for a while I hear their customer service is quite poor and they have a noteworthy failure rate on new boards. I had been looking at the Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD4 or perhaps the GA-Z68X-UD7-B3.

RE: SSD...
Are the Sandy Force issues with OCZ SSDs ironed out from the latest update? If they are, should I perhaps wait a couple weeks for the new OCZ SSDs to be released?

RE: GPU...
I actually have a pair of Sapphire 6950 Toxic 2GBs, should I just go with those?

RE: Case...
I'm not opposed to the 600T but I am somewhat keen to have a window to show off the goodies... ya know, for all the ladies... AMIRIGHT?!?! :D Additionally, the 90 degree rotation of the FT02 is very tempting.

RE: PSU...
Will 750W be sufficient to run the pair of cards at near max capacity and still run at 80% for longevity? I heard you want to run PSUs at no more than 80% their maximum wattage for optimal long-term performance.

RE: The future of gaming.
Isn't BF3 a major indicator of GPU performance?. If I were to run a tri-SLI of GTX 590s on three monitors I might just average above 60 fps.

I was looking at doing something like this with EVGAs GTX 590 Classified edition... or maybe waiting a few weeks and going with the SB-E, grabbing a few mid-range cards, and getting Kepler in Q1 of next year.

Sure, happy to help!

1. Minimal. A few % faster on memory intensive tasks, but not much compared to a faster CPU or using an SSD. I use faster RAM because that's where the higher-binned, higher-quality chips go, and the particular set I chose has excellent heatsinks. It is also more tolerant if I decide to overclock.
   
   
2. No optical drive needed. I did eventually install this blu-ray drive, just because I want to be able to rip media, but it's completely unnecessary for daily use or installing the OS.
   
   
3. This article should tell you what you need.
   
   
4. A backpack for the keyboard/headphones/mouse/cables/etc. For the monitor and the PC, they each get their own GearGrip, one hand each. Overpriced for straps, yet worth every penny.
   
   
5. You could, but just get a GearGrip strap. Trust me on this one. The body of the case is metal, but the loops themselves are plastic. They're durable enough you can carry it with them if you want.
   
   
6. Already built in, and excellent quality.
   
   
7. Closing thoughts: You've got a fine build. There is nothing wrong with the SSD you chose, but I do recommend getting an M.2 drive instead if you can. Having the hard drive mounted underneath the motherboard saves needing to run a power and data cable, and you can completely pull out the drive cages, saving quite a bit of weight. (You can also mount an SSD on one of the side panels, and still pull the cages, but of course still need to run power & data lines.)
   
   No need to spend extra on a heatsink- retail CPUs come with excellent ones. You can scrape of the thermal material they ship with and use Arctic Silver or the like for a small boost in performance.
   
   Nothing wrong with the power supply you chose, but one with removable, flat cables would be easier to work with. Not a game-changing issue at all, just a nicety.

The good news is that the discs that came with the hardware are obsolete and the updated software is available for download on their sites.

The bad news is some software, depending on the vendor, must be installed from the included disc because they do not offer a replacement on their site (to minimize how many people who don't own compatible hardware try using it). Creative and Canon with their DSLR's are two examples where proprietary software is exclusive to their included media and the website merely offers patches.

Also, your OS is downloadable and can be very easily installed to a USB drive of 8GB minimum capacity (it will be formatted to FAT32)

• Windows 10 Media Creation Tool
  
  
• Windows 8.1/8 Media Creation Tool
  
  With the spare storage on the USB drive, I would create a folder and place all your driver downloads there UNcompressed and sorted so your OS can find them when you point to it.
  
  If you are installing Windows in new hardware, remember to boot off the USB drive in UEFI mode (use opportunity to ditch MBR). After pressing the appropriate key on startup to dictate the boot device, look for UEFI next to the USB drive. Desktop motherboards allow you to boot with the typical BIOS/MBR method or the UEFI/GPT method without having to make any modifications, whereas laptops may require you disable "Secure Boot" before permitting booting
  
  
• Process to install Windows 10/8.1/8 via UEFI / GPT
  
  
• Process to install Windows 7 via UEFI / GPT
  
  Finally, remember to save this drive in a safe place for future use. Like in your motherboard box.
  
  That being said, if you still want to get an optical drive, here are five options:
  
  
• $29.99 Plextor PX-891SAF DVD burner
  
  
• $58.99 LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray Burner
  
  
• $65.99 Pioneer BDR-209DBK Kit Blu-Ray Burner
  
  
• $20.99 LG GP60NB50 USB DVD Burner
  
  
• $84.63 Samsung SE-506CB/RSWD USB Blu-Ray burner

As someone who also likes ripping optical media: That's not the Blu-ray drive you want. Not by a long shot.

The drive you want is the LG WH16NS40 (also on Amazon), which is (by my measure) objectively the best BR drive currently on the market.

"Why should I get this drive over any other?" Three main reasons:

1. No riplock (artificially limiting read speed when sequentially reading the disc). The BDR-209DBK maybe has riplock, or maybe just has a really garbage power-saving mode.
   
2. Can read BDXL (3 and 4 layer) discs, but only supports AACS1. This puts it in the "UHD BR friendly" category, allowing you to rip UHD/4K Blu-ray discs.
   
3. Uses a Mediatek chipset and a +6 read offset, which means it can read/rip PS3 game discs.
   
   EDIT Also, for the love of <diety>, don't ever update your optical drive firmware.

Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO

• 3.2 GHz Hexa-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 32 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB PCIe boot volume
  
• 2 TB external rotating drive for Time Machine Backups, connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C
  
• Dual 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drives for content, VOL1 and VOL2. VOL1 is replicated to VOL2, both are connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C. These handy adapter cables allow you to connect a traditional USB 3.0 device into a Thunderbolt 3 port.
  
• Single 4 TB SeaGate Plus USB 3.0 drive which contains the majority of my media content, VOL5. It is a "floater" drive which I always carry in my backpack to have the majority of my content with me at all times.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Server
  
• Dual 27” Apple Thunderbolt Displays connected to the Mac Mini, daisy-chained off a single Thunderbolt 3 port using a Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adapter.
  
• This Mac Mini is what I use to host all of my iTunes content to the three Apple TVs in my home
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 100 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Running Mac OS 10.13.6 Server
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Quad-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Client
  
• Time Machine Backups are being taken both on the 2018 Mac Mini as well as the 2010 Mac Mini
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at Mom & Dad’s about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my content, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my mother’s Mac Mini and my niece’s MacBook Pro. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL3, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 120 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drive for storing and hosting content, VOL3. It is a complete duplicate of VOL1/VOL2.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Server
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at my sister's house about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my movies and TV shows, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my sister's MacBook Pro and my other niece’s MacBook. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL4, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 120 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 4 TB Seagate Backup Plus USB 3.0 drive (VOL4) for storing and hosting content, VOL4. It is a complete duplicate of VOL1/VOL2.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Server
  
  
  Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Six-Core Intel Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 500 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Client
  
• This is my work-provided laptop, mostly used for remote access. It is pretty locked down, I am not a local administrator so I cannot even rename it to fit my naming scheme
  
  

  iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
  

  
  

• 2.38 GHz Apple A10X CPU
  
• 4 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 13.0 Public Beta
  
  
  

  iPhone X, named RIPLEY
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Apple A11 Bionic CPU
  
• 3 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 12.3.1
  
  
  LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
  
  Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
  
  The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
  
  The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
  
  The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
  
  I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
  
  
  Additionally throughout the house, I have...
  3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
  2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
  1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
  1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
  1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
  1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
  2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
  4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
  1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
  2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
  2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
  4 Google Home Minis
  1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
  1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
  
  I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.

He said he used the PcGamer High end build guide with some changes. He swapped the 1080 to a 1070, the SSD's to a 1TB SSD, he changed the case to a MasterCase Maker 5 Mid-Tower and ordered everything form Amazon

So overall I'm guessing this is his build;

• CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K - $350
  
• GPU: GeForce GTX 1070 - $450
  
• Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus VIII Hero - $215
  
• Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 - $145
  
• SSD: 1TB Samsung 850 Evo 2.5-inch SATA - $317
  
• CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 240mm AIO - $97
  
• Optical: LG UH12NS30 - $52
  
• PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 80 Plus GOLD - $141
  
• Case: MasterCase Maker 5 Mid-Tower Case - $178
  
  Coming to a grand total of 1945$ add shipping to that and you're looking at pretty close to 2 grand.
  
  This build is fucking retarded though.
  
  First of all, you can actually buy a a goddamn prebuilt with almost the same specs for about 400$ cheaper. That HP is just the first one I found, there are dozens of other prebuilts ranging from about 400-100$ cheaper with no real performance loss.
  
  Yeah it's a prebuilt and has bloatware and all that shit, but in terms of performance it's actually pretty much equal to the authors build.
  
  Second, you could just go for a more reasonable part list.
  
  Swap the 6700k to an i5 6500 with the stock cooler and you'll cut 250$ from the price.
  
  Even an i5-6600k with a hyper 212 evo would cost you about 260$, saving almost 200$
  
  Swap the ridiculous motherboard to something decent for about 100-150$ and you're saving another 100$ right there.
  
  32 gigs of RAM is overkill, you could easily go for 16GB DDR4 2400, and save another 70$
  
  Dump the optical drive, who the hell watches BD movies on a PC anyways? If you really need a DVD drive they're like 20$
  
  Swap the ridiculously high end case to something like Fractal Design R5 and save another 50$. R5 is still an excellent and fairly high end case, you could easily go for a 50-80$ mid-tower and save 100$.
  
  I would also swap the 1TB SSD to a 256gb SSD and a 2TB mechanical drive which would be about 160-200$ saving him another 100$. but I can at least understand that someone wants the simplicity of just having a single drive.
  
  With a few simple changes he could save about 450-650$ without losing any performance whatsoever in gaming, and that's without hunting for cheaper prices from somewhere that's not Amazon.
  
  He said he paid about 100$ extra to buy everything from Amazon, so with an updated parts list and using PCpartpicker the price drops down to 1171$ so about 770$ cheaper than the authors build and with no real performance loss.

Looks pretty sweet, however:

• You can get a single stick of ram for around the same price which is a bit more convenient than two and better for upgrades in the future. Here's one that matches your motherboard.
  
  
• Your case looks a bit cheap, but if you really like it, go for it.
  
  
• You only need 600w and you'll save $10. Here.
  
  
• In this day and age, you don't need a CD drive. Drivers should be installed from the internet so you receive the most up-to-date ones. Unless of course, you want to play blu-rays, which you should probably get one of these

Pretty sure all the highest quality drives are still 12x/8x. The actual rip time will only vary by a few seconds so don't put too much time into research unless you need a bunch of other features. If it's just a ripping drive all you need to do is make sure it's 12x/8x (unless there are faster drives now?) and that it doesn't have riplock.

I have the ASUS BC-12B1ST and a Pioneer BDR-208DBK (no longer available) both of which do not have riplock.

I should add the ASUS has a very short depth. So if you don't have a ton of room in your case it's a great option. I originally got it for a Antec P180 Mini since there wasn't much room between the big top fan and the top 5.25 bay.

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There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> Can anyone recommend a good repeater/extender that they are confident will work with an Apple Airport Extreme Router?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhuv5r5

----

> To anyone who've ordered through NewEgg Canada via Interac Online, how was your Experience(s)? I'll be ordering a new GPU to replace the one in my prebuilt in a few days & Interac Online is the only way for me to pay (sucks even more as Newegg is the only PC place in Canada that accepts Interac Online; I've tried applying for a CC via RBC; got denied as my wage is too low (I'm on PDW Benefits & get ~$1034 a month from the government)

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhviqle

----

> Recently installed Win10's creator update, and everything's been running mostly smoothly. I went to go play DOOM 2016, and when I entered the campaign, I noticed that my escape key wasn't working. The key works in Windows, and all the other programs I tried using it in, without any issue at all. The binds in DOOM are fine.
>
> What could be causing this?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvr3vj

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> I'm looking to buy a bluray burner/player for my pc recently. I was looking at this How do region codes work for internal drives? Is it possible to region unlock drives?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvtxkq

----

> I'm having an issue where where my color settings in the Nvidia control panel reset whenever I leave a full screen window. The sliders and settings still look the same, but nudging one of them will make it go back to normal. Does anyone know how to fix this?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvu2iu

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> When will I be able to afford a 144hz 1440 1ms monitor without having to sell off my liver?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvwby3

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> Ok

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhujhrm

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/u/spamsince /u/Cerelius_BT

So I have taken into consideration both of your suggestions, along with reconsidering my choice of case and storage, and used PC Part Picker to build a setup with the price I am happy with.


Part | Item | Price
---|---|----
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | $32.00
Motherboard | ASUS ATX DDR3 1800 Motherboards H170-PLUS D3 | $117.91
CPU | Intel Boxed Core I5-6400 | $242.99
Graphics Card | XFX Radeon RX 480 | $349.99
RAM | Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB Kit (2x8GB) | $87.99
PSU | FirePower Technology Firepower ZT Series 550W 80Plus Bronze | $77.81
HDD | 2 x WD Blue 2TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive | $95.50 each
OS Drive | Corsair Force Series LE SSD, SATA 6Gbps 480GB | $142.49
Case | Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-02 Mid Tower | $74.99
Optical Drive | LG Internal UH12NS30 BD-ROM | $56.99

Just want to run it by you guys to see if the parts are compatible.

Thanks again for all your help.

i have the optical drive on my desk since my case doesnt have a place for it

i have this drive with this sata to usb powered adapter, literally haven't had a problem with it for over 2 years now

keep in mind also that the original quality rips off the blu ray are going to be massive in file size, i'd very much recommend picking up an external HDD as well to store files if u plan on running something like plex, or go balls deep and build an entire server like i did

Ah. No BD-ROM drive on my computer.

Looks like they're still about $60. (Amazon link, no referral.) Last I heard, computer Blu-ray drives can't even play Blu-ray movies, at least not for free, you have to pay for a decoder. Computer Blu-ray drives are just used to burn data discs at up to 25GB per, but due to the costs involved, flash drives are a better deal 100% of the time, considering only a Blu-ray drive can read the created disc. Read and write speeds are super slow. A 32GB flash drive is cheaper and reads and writes faster, and works on virtually all computers, and Android phones with an adapter.

Getting real technical here, but I think an Android phone could read data from a Blu-ray data disc if you had an external burner/reader that used USB and you have the adapter. You run into two problems: one, is the Blu-ray drive getting enough power? Maybe a splitter is needed. Two, does Android have the drivers? Before you say "probably not," consider that it does have mouse drivers and if you connect a mouse the same way, you get a pointer. Android uses the Linux kernel, which supports a lot of hardware.

I got this one from Amazon, seeing discs rise like they do from the case would have been so cool in the 2000's. I got the Blu-Ray one though which is more expensive but they have a DVD for $60, which is pretty good considering the case.

I personally wouldn't use AMD CPUs and just grab the i5-4690K. You want at least 8GB of RAM if you're building a gaming rig. The VRAM makes up for it a bit, but some games just need that 8GB. You don't need a Hybrid drive. They aren't that great and you have a SSD anyway. I would replace the storage options with a 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD. Having a liquid cooler CPU is fine but that seems expensive. The H100i is popular and you'll get the same results. What game do you plan on using 3 R9 290s? I would just get 2 GTX 970s and SLI them or just a GTX 980. You save money in the long run too since they have less power consumption, especially against 3 R9 290s. If you do get 2 GTX 970's or a 980 instead, switch up the power supply to maybe a 750-850W. You won't need the extra power. The optical drive is also really expensive. If you insist on getting a blu-ray optical, the LG is only $40.00 on Amazon.

Classes of laser devices are not awarded solely on the power of the laser.

They are based on how much power CAN the user be exposed to. The key factor is the design of the device. For example, this blue-ray drive is a class I product http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-UJ262-Ultrathin-Blu-ray-Recorder/dp/B00HG77LSO (you can see on the sticker if you open the image), but with a writing speed of 8x it needs to have a lot of power, as much as hundreds of milliwatts. Here's the laser taken from a slightly more powerful 12x burner https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJ77l23xwak&ab_channel=WorldScott

It's the DESIGN of the product that matters. Since the laser is inside of an enclosure, and the product is designed to power the laser off immediately after the tray is opened, the user is never exposed to that radiation. Skarp can possibly do the same thing, by implementing a sensor to monitor if the fabric is broken. Note that by design, the radiation remains within the fiber until contact with hair breaks the total internal reflection.

And i'm sorry, but your calculations about the battery are far off.

1.1 watt hours means that it can provide the power of 1.1 watts for one hour. Very convenient unit. How long can it provide the power of 4 watts?

1.1 / 4 = 0.275 hours = 16.5 minutes

It is in fact minutes. It is not seconds. It will in fact be shorter than than since this is in fact overdriving the battery. But more importantly, none of this is a law of physics! Sure, their choice of battery is wrong, but this can be solved by using a li-ion cell. There is no physical constant that makes this device completely impossible. They aren't claiming free energy, or claiming that they can pump more air out of water than there can physically BE air dissolved in water (aka "triton") so don't throw that card. Yes they are overoptimistic, yes they very likely won't deliver anything, and maybe they already know it and decided to keep the cash instead of refunding. But big claims require proper supporting facts and sources.

I didn't ignore the articles at all.

Again, the issue is not with the interface - and I've never claimed it doesn't do what it does.

Yet again, Einstein, the issue is your claim of superiority of this product, not with what the product offers. As far as a computer with those items, my own pc is running over half of it (1080p camera, Bluray drive, HDMI in), and what I do have is miles more powerful than what xbox one claims to offer (I burn blu-ray, capture 4 channels, recording studio level microphones, much more powerful graphics cardS, etc). But again, I have not once denied that xbox one has that hardware, but most of those things are not even the "interface" that everybody is complaining about and definately not exclusive to xbox.

And that's just my personal desk computer. Don't get me started on the systems I build for work...

Back to my actual point again: Your claim that xbox one is offering the ULTIMATE interface solution is laughable.

You (repeatedly) sound like a pothead proclaiming the superiority of White Castle cheeseburgers without ever having been to 5 Guys. Don't waste my time by arguing that the cheeseburger is ULTIMATE by trying to twist it and claim I'm denying a cheeseburger has cheese. Of course a cheeseburger has cheese. There's simply better burgers than White Castle sells.

Yep this, to add more to this I was able to use the ASUS flashing application found here (LG and ASUS drives only) on this drive. Good luck!

I know of them, it's not my favourite idea. I prefer to keep it self contained, though it wouldn't be hard to just stuff it elsewhere on my desk when not in use.

One thing that's not entirely applicable is that we make fun of apple products for removing functionality from the device and giving it back as a dongle/adapter. But remove CD/DVD drives from PC's and use external ones.

It's not a 1:1 comparison though because apple does it to make their computers more unnecessarily thin as well as to sell you more of their overpriced shit, and PCs do it for more fans or other internal space.

Also, I'm not sure how an external blu-ray drive works. But I know you can get VLC to play discs off internal blu-ray drives, and the ability to quickly take snapshots like this at source quality using VLC without having to faff about with other shit is one thing I particularly like having.

At the end of the day it comes down to personal preference, and my personal preference, outdated and impractical as it is, is to have it all internal rather than external.

EDIT: After checking the cost of an external blu ray burner, they're almost double the price of an internal drive as well.

It appears I forgot to add an optical drive. I was thinking about this one:

LG WH16NS40 Super Multi Blue Internal SATA

Is there a better one?

Toshiba is bad. Stay away... also stay away from Dell, HP, and Acer. Cheap materials used in poor construction makes a generally poor product.

If this is your budget, I would ONLY suggest an ASUS G75. I have one myself, they are fantastic.

Specs include:

Quad-core i7 Haswell CPU
2 128GB SSD's and a 1TB Storage drive on Raid 0 (they all work together to function like 1 really fast drive)
Nvidia GTX 770M
17.3" matte display

They are incredibly fast, durable, and sleek. I wouldn't get anything else honestly.

Put a blue ray drive in with the extra money you save on not getting the Toshiba which lesser quality product. In my experience, ASUS makes the best laptops on the market.

I want to know if it's possible to use an optical drive with this case?

Specifically I want to use this drive

If not can you recommend another simple black case in the same price range with an optical drive?

Thanks a lot!

Edit: Never mind I figured out that it does work. Thanks!

From Amazon's product page, it says the WH16NS60 supports 100GB triple-layer discs. I've seen some 4-layer 128GB discs on the market; I wonder if it can support those?

I've already bought 2 optical drives for my new PC I recently built.. I bought the WH16NS40 because I couldn't rip UHD movies with the first drive I bought.. I wish I had found the NS60 earlier.

Don't quite know how it figures into things, but I just got some new LG Blu-ray burners that support M-Disc, so I did a bit of research. Company claims 1000 year life. The discs are ~$3 a pop though.
I mention this because I ASSUME it takes some higher quality optics to burn Blu-ray, and to burn on the M-Disc media, so my assumption was that these would last me a bit longer.
I've had them for a couple weeks and burned maybe a half-dozen regular DVDs that were all good, but that's not exactly a huge test group to extrapolate long-term data from.

Notice: I was doing a rough price estimate for you on what I could get where I live. Prices listed are for example and my not be available in your location. I am not recommending any of these parts this is a quick and dirty price / parts example.


($50) Case: Same as listed in OP

($90) Motherboard: Same as listed in OP

($199) CPU: Same as listed in OP

($40) Heat Sink: Same as listed in OP

($80) SSD: Same as listed in OP

($99) OS Windows 10 Home: Same as listed in OP

($60) Power Supply 500W: Not listed in OP

($65) HDD 2TB: 2x that of OP ($13 upgrade)

($45) Blu-Ray drive: OP was DVD drive (about $25 upgrade)

($80) 16GB DDR4: Equivalent Size, Speed and Spec of OP not sure on Manufacturer

($350) GPU EVGA 4GB GTX 970: 2x video memory and faster clock than OP (GTX 960 4GB is about $230 and a GTX 960 2GB $200)

($8) Heat Sink Compound

($8) Sata Cables (drives were bare bones)

Total Cost as listed: $1174 or 1110 Euro
Total Cost Closest to OP PC (no upgrades): $986 or 932 Euro

The closest thing I could come to the exact build with 20 minutes searching yielded a PC that was only 157 Euro less than that of the OP PC. If you are more comfortable with buying a prebuilt it is not actually that bad of price and components.
Would it be able to play SC @ 4k with good fps probably not. Will it handle the game on medium to good settings at 1080 yes. Keep in mind that the current game is still not optimized and the player count in a map is also low, so we could see gains or losses in performance.

few edits: simple format changes
edit 2 side note: Nvidia Pascal is said to be around the corner with 10%+ gains. I am waiting myself to see what it offers before upgrading.

I've been on vacation or I'd have responded sooner, apologies for that.

I rip all my movies with makemkv. I'm basically watching the movie as if it's straight from the disc, just ripped directly and wrapped in MKV.

I have watched directly from the drive using leawo blu-ray player. Wideasfcuk talks about it on youtube.
And this is my bd drive.

Hope that helps

Blue Ray optical drive is 30$ + 60$ controller is still only 390$. Still 10$ cheaper than a ps4, and you don't have to pay monthly for multiplayer/online gaming. The steam machine also has better hardware. Steam machine wins in both affordability and specifications.

Link to an external blue ray player: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DVTBM2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1409090791&sr=1-1

I'm going through this list and actually getting ready to finally take the plunge. I'm thinking about Phanteks Eclipse Steel ATX Mid Tower Tempered Glass Black Cases - PH-EC300PTG_BK as a case to save $40. I'm also grabbing the LG WH14NS40 as my disc drive. I'm also swapping out the HDD you suggested for a Seagate Baracuda 2tb

Right now I'm running an Asus BC-12B1ST. I'm fairly sure it causes sleep problems, but other than that it works well. The only way to play blu-ray movies on OS X is by buying a commercial blu-ray player.

Form what I've read, the most compatible drives are Sony Optiarc drives, and some LG drives. There was a chart floating around somewhere with a list of suggested drives, but I can't find it.

Edit: Found it http://legacy.tonymacx86.com/wiki/index.php/Optical_Disc_Drive_Database

It is a type of optical media, there are DVD versions and bluray versions. Basically rather than a laser burning the organic dye stuff for a normal one, it is a slightly stronger laser burning a rock like material. It is supposed to last at least 1000 years.

You can get it off amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Internal-Rewriter-WH14NS40/dp/B007VPGL5U

https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-M-Disc-BD-R-Branded-Surface/dp/B011PZALWA

There have been some reports of things going strange with the multilayer, so I only trust the single layer (25GB) discs.

Edit: switched amazon link to write drive. linked to dvd only one at first.

A BD-R is very useful to back things up. If chances are you might want to rewatch it, you can burn it on disc. With capacities now close to 100 GB / disc and archival quality, it's still a viable option.

The archival grade 100GB BD-XL M-disc is probably your best option IMO. This is a suitable internal drive to burn them and this is a suitable external drive

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

these

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

There's a YouTube video regarding UHD ripping that uses an internal Bluray player such as [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/LG-WH16NS40-Playback-Essentials-Software/dp/B00IIXLKKU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523135219&sr=8-4&keywords=internal+bluray+drive&refinements=p_89%3ALG) In fact, I think that's one of the model numbers listed. You will, of course, need a powered SATA to USB adapter but at the end of the day, you'll be cheaper than your original solution.

It's just not pretty.

i have this one it works well. i need to get a new motherboard before i can play 4k content. but for everything else it works well.

This took 1 quick search to find. See if it meets your requirements.




LG Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-ray Disc Rewriter OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7B08MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZdYyDbEKTSGCT

I just finished my 804 build and this is the drive I picked up. It's a little pricy, but I got it on sale and it comes with Bluray software and a nice sleeved sata cable. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BY3LCLI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1422408530&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&dpPl=1&dpID=41syly7ywbL&ref=plSrch

There is an LG drive with just as good reviews on Amazon (Used) for $35... Here

The plastic part just looks like part of a Dell D600 DVD drive. (With a cutout made for the SATA power+data)

http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1h9Z7IXXXXXa3aXXXq6xXFXXXE/DVD-to-HDD-SSD-Module-2nd-HDD-SSD-Hard-Drive-Caddy-Enclosure-for-Dell-Latitude-D600.jpg

You can just measure the size of the drive yourself and do the cuts from that and then test fit it.

They even have the dimensions on the amazon page. Albeit probably not to the accuracy you need hence why you would need to measure it.

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-12-7mm-Interface-Blu-Ray-SOB02/dp/B00BY3LCLI

This one has served me very well. Used it for many blu ray burns of home movies. I used a re-writable disc as well as dual layer discs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E7B08MS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499913443&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lg+blu+ray+burner+m.disc&dpPl=1&dpID=416X3wRYtzL&ref=plSrch

Just tried holding it down no dice man its fubar won't even read the disc and thanks for letting me know which one to get huge help from you.


New - Sony PS3 Bluray Drive - 120, 250 GB Slim Models - (KES-450A/ KEM-450AAA Laser) + Nextek® T8 Security Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRJ9SDG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Uuf0tb1CG6PKGJ2Q


That's the one I was looking at before asking.

The WH16NS40 will do 4K as long as you roll back the firmware. If you wanna make the internal drive an external one of these would work. I use it to make internal HDDs external as well.

For more info, check out the Ultimate UHD Drives Guide from MakeMKV's site.

How do i get my Blu-Ray drive to actually play Blu-Rays??

Ended up getting this. Thanks man.

Sorry if this isn't the right place for this.

One of the only PS3 games I really care about is Midnight Club LA, I got a disc copy of it earlier to use as a kinda sorta benchmark game. It's listed as "Ingame" on the compatibility checker, but I've gotten nothing.

I just this error: "E LDR: Invalid or unsupported file format: C:/Users...dev_hdd0/game/PS3_GAME/USRDIR/EBOOT.BIN" when I try to play it.

I've installed the PS3 firmware, and I'm using the latest version or RPCS3 from github. I feel like I'm just an idiot and I'm just not realizing something, so if someone could tell me what I'm missing, that would be great :p

I'm using an [LG WH16NS40] (https://www.amazon.com/LG-WH16NS40-Internal-Blu-ray-Rewriter/dp/B00E7B08MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491537583&sr=8-1&keywords=lg+wh16ns40) to rip the ISO, not sure if that matters.

I wanted an optical drive for my new pc for playing BluRay/Dvd/CD ect.

Ended up ordering this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7B08MS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Unfortunately I now realize it doesn't come with cables or software? Will I be able to actually use the thing without that? If not where do I get what I need to make it actually work?

You can get a portable USB DVD drive like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/

They are small, and easy to swap between machines.

However, I don't do that. Personally, I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Benfei-Adapter-Compatible-Optical-Support/dp/B07JGT17B8/

to connect my old Bluray drive to my PC whenever I need to:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VPGL5U

It is much faster, but the trade off is that requires wall power and is larger.

http://www.amazon.com/Blu-Ray-USB-External-Player-DVDRW/dp/B001QA2Y9S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=VKG2UH4KLGE5&coliid=I6FB1UMQK0WH

will do it for $60.00

I don't have it but it's mentioned in this article:

http://mac.appstorm.net/how-to/video-how-to/how-to-rip-blu-rays-on-a-mac-a-complete-guide/


There is also this :

http://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-Technology-MediaStation-External-BR3D-12U3/dp/B003RH08Z0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=VKG2UH4KLGE5&coliid=IJS76LUUZ9FFL

Which looks a little more substantial.

Yeh, I was thinking something like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-BDR-209DBK-SATA-Internal-Burner/dp/B00H2GTXKS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526846867&sr=1-5&keywords=blu+ray+drive&dpID=41NZSfUeeyL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/OSST-Internal-12-7mm-Blu-RAY-Optical/dp/B0757L7J3C

It doesn't tell you what drive dimensions it's designed for. How lame. You could contact them.

But since you're also restricted to mATX if you use an optical drive, you should totally get a SilverStone FT03 :) And you'd know for sure these would fit: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Interface-Drive-Optical-SOD02B/dp/B004X9PHFC/ or http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-12-7mm-Interface-Blu-Ray-SOB02/dp/B00BY3LCLI/

I have one that I can no longer put inside my new case (opted for no 5.25" bays this time). I never thought about selling it because I wasn't sure if I would get an external adapter, but I don't actually think I'll need it. It's an LG (pretty sure this one). What are you looking to spend?

EDIT: You can PM me if you want.

I bought this one and downgraded the firmware:

LG WH16NS40 Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-ray Disc Rewriter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7B08MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CwwYBbYXAYDZ7

Googe for instructions.

I have not actually ripped a UHD disk yet. I bought it mostly because my old DVD player broke.

Yes, the case is what is keeping ODs from populating on PcPartPicker. If you want an optical drive you'll need to either buy an external usb powered one or find a case with a 5.25" bay. I have the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M with tempered glass side and an LG blu-ray drive. One similar to this one.

From what I could tell when doing some research while I was building my system most external drives a far more expensive than internal, but those are American prices. Don't really know about UK or Euro prices.

LG Electronics Blu-ray/DVD Writer Optical Drive - WH16NS60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LR2Q67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nVWCDbWRANBF4

This is one of the ones with a firmware change will allow you rip 4K Blu-rays if you wanted to.

I bought this one for delivery in the USA last year, works fine.

LG Electronics WH14NS40 - $59.99

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRJ9SDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems like the specific one I bought is out of stock right now, but there should be others.

It looks like the price went up since last week, but here you go.

$43 new on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Blu-ray-Writer-UH12NS40/dp/B01IL02TUE

Unfortunately that seems for me £57.95. That's $81.47. Or at least the one I think is the UK Amazon equivalent. The original price was already pushing it. I may have to find another.

I have the first gen of this drive and I've ripped UK locked Blurays as well as US, and its never asked me about the region. I'm using MakeMKV and Handbrake. Maybe BluRay player software will ask you to switch, but MakeMKV doesn't (at least not with the drive I'm using).

I have this LG and never had an issue with it. Looks like Amazon no longer sells it but there's a newer version.

It would be nice but no. If you do end up getting another drive for this, I have one of these and it's been working fine.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2GTXKS if you were wondering the model I had

[EDIT] That's not the UHD compatible one >< See below.

This is the one I use.

Optiplex:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-Core-i5-3470-3-4ghz-16x-DVDRW-NO-HD-MiniTower-Computer-used/223597044587?hash=item340f6c236b%3Am%3AmmCYchPZralPc3FUgpohyCw&LH_BIN=1

Blue ray drive:

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Internal-Rewriter-WH14NS40/dp/B007VPGL5U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=blu+ray+drive&qid=1564694274&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3

Total is ~150usd

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO068/?tag=pcpapi-20

Couldn't you get one of [these?](http://www.amazon.com/Asus-DVD-ROM-Internal-Blu-Ray-BC-12B1ST/dp/B004SUO068/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394905004&sr=1-
1&keywords=blu+ray+drive)

I'm looking to buy a bluray burner/player for my pc recently. I was looking at this How do region codes work for internal drives? Is it possible to region unlock drives?

Try the Silverstone SST-SOB02

So can a PC?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-ray_Disc_recordable

Go ahead buy one

Discs are right here

I remember seeing them on the shelves of Staples when I worked there 10 years ago.

LG Electronics 14x SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter without Software, Black (WH14NS40) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VPGL5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J6SMAbBQ0D9NJ

:p

Will this work?

ASUS do a reasonably cheap blu-ray drive for around $60.

Is this drive better?

https://smile.amazon.com/OSST-Internal-12-7mm-Blu-RAY-Optical/dp/B0757L7J3C

https://www.amazon.com/Asus-DVD-ROM-Internal-Blu-Ray-BC-12B1ST/dp/B004SUO068/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1487206511&sr=8-11&keywords=pc+dvd+drive

The size depends on how many movies you want to be able to store but as a reference my Blu-ray directory is 7.19TB for 206 movies and 4K Blu-ray directory is 7.18TB for 117.

Unfortunately you cannot use the Oppo to back them up but I use this drive, which doesn't break the bank and then I use MakeMKV to do a full disc backup. It takes up more space than putting it in a MKV container and stripping extra language streams and whatnot but you retain full quality, lossless audio, Dolby Vision, all menus, etc.

Seriously? There are tons of them available under $100. Here is a brand new one for $40

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Blu-ray-Writer-UH12NS40/dp/B01IL02TUE

Bottom of the reader says Model No: BC - 12B1ST

so this guy then: http://www.amazon.com/Asus-DVD-ROM-Internal-Blu-Ray-BC-12B1ST/dp/B004SUO068/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426724936&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+bc+12b1st

100GB triple layer and 128GB quad layer cost extra: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LR2Q67/

unfortunately the drivers and SW bundle are for Windows.

1600 Mhz is obviously better, but 1333 will not hinder your performance at all. If you're willing to spend a few bucks more on 1600, by all means do so.

These are cheaper than the Hyper X Fury, but have lower latency.

This drive should be good for blu-ray.

The budget is 1000 and I have 60$ wiggle room on the gpu

Cpu:
AMD FD6300WMHKBOX FX-6300 6-Core Processor Black Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YORK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F4k.ybXJ9MNX6

Mobo:
ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008B6ONXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5k.ybM4T8KD8

Ram (gonna get double this):
Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM - Black (HX318C10FBK2/16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8E8Y5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_35k.ybSB444ET

Power supply:
EVGA 700 B1, 80+ Bronze 700W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-B1-0700-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JYHBE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z6k.ybFG0BH23

Disc drive:
Asus Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-Ray Drive (BC-12B1ST) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO068/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86k.yb64XN6SJ

And then the hard drives and case fans etc