Reddit mentions of Anker 60W 10-Port USB Wall Charger, PowerPort 10 for iPhone Xs/XS Max/XR/X/8/7/6s/Plus, iPad Pro/Air 2/Mini, Galaxy S9/S8/S7/Edge/Plus, Note 8/7, LG, Nexus, HTC and More

For low light situations i think getting an attachment with an LED light on it would work, because in the previous streams the only drawback besides D/C from s8 in buildings is the low light performance.

https://www.amazon.com/AMIR-Rechargeable-Adjustable-Brightness-Smartphones/dp/B01N985HG0/ref=pd_sim_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N985HG0&pd_rd_r=425SS243P73HQVMCA10Y&pd_rd_w=hqXqy&pd_rd_wg=64VDg&psc=1&refRID=425SS243P73HQVMCA10Y

it doesn't have to specifically be this product but, if it's attached to a wide angle lens and has a LED light it might be perfect unless you want him to get an LED light for the actual selfie stick. (i would much rather prefer Ice switching to the teradek system inside clubs just so the low light performance is the best it can be)

If you are going to be sending like 6 powerbanks (i'm serious send over 5 powerbanks) to easily charge get a multi usb super charger

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=psdc_12557637011_t2_B00P936188

Of course you want to send more adapters for the different outlets, multiple because the hotels only send him one.

Losing his wallet is shitty content now, plus he will be going to places where there are a fuckton of pick pockets. Solve two problems with this.

https://www.amazon.com/Venture-4th-Travel-Blocking-Passport/dp/B014UULU7M/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FWC56RW&pd_rd_r=H5N9JTAB5A6T5SGT075J&pd_rd_w=0S218&pd_rd_wg=Oy2iJ&refRID=H5N9JTAB5A6T5SGT075J&th=1

Ice can wear this around his neck, and just pull it out to show ID and take out cash and his credit card, leave his passport with his other shit. Put a reminder to always tuck it back into his tshirt when he isn't using it.

For the weather:

Here is a drypack, so the powerbanks and extra phones/wires don't get wet.

https://www.amazon.com/Chaos-Ready-Waterproof-Backpack-Snowboarding/dp/B01BIN27SA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499109716&sr=8-5&keywords=dry+pack

If that won't work with the teradek backup, just get a poncho

https://www.amazon.com/Frogg-Toggs-Action-Poncho-Blue/dp/B00DIGKQH0/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499109863&sr=1-7&keywords=poncho

If tried to find a waterproof case but I'm not sure if they would work with the stick/wide angle lens, since you will be sending him the equipment please look into a something that could both use a wide angle lens on top of a waterproof case.

Also tell him to buy a couple more S8's. I know that is a huge investment but this retard is gonna break everything. And obviously get him unthrottled internet anyway possible.

Goodluck manager.

I have 2 Anker 6 port USB power supplies:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-6-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00P936188?th=1

They also make a more cost-effective 10 port:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=dp_ob_title_wld

Drew uses a lot of stuff I've used or am currently using!

The headphones are the Sony MDR7506, or the Sony MDRV6 and they are ultimately the same thing. I have both, I haven't been able to tell the difference, and from what I've researched, they use the same parts internally, so the only thing different is the cosmetics. I know the Vergecast also uses these headphones in their studio.

While I don't have the Focusrite 2i2 like Drew was using, I do own the Focusrite 18i8 (Gen 1), and the Focusrite 18i20 (Gen 2) and both are phenomenal. They are more expensive than a standard USB Mixer, but the pre-amps make up for some of that cost, plus the ease of use.

I have never used the Shure SM7B, but it's the same microphone that Kinda Funny Games uses. I use the Electro Voice RE20, which is the same Microphone that Giant Bomb West and East uses, as well as, the Vergecast. I would love to hear Drew's opinions on both mics. Both mics are exceptional review-wise and very popular in audio recordings, but having Drew compare the two would have some value.

And just because I have listed all the equipment Drew has used. Here is the Anker 10-Port Hub he was using. Anker is a great brand for USB/Computer accessories. They have an outstanding warranty and customer service department.

Note none of these links are affiliate links, this post was simply to make it easy to find the gear Drew was using.

I'd get one of these and cut a hole in the back of the nightstand to feed the cable for it through. Then you can either pick up some 6-inch USB cables of various types, or deal with your longer cables.

This type of setup is also an option

For charging small USB battery packs I like to use a USB hub with at least as many outputs as I have packs. This Anker charger is my favorite so far. Along with a handful of 6 inch USB cables it makes a great charge-o-pus.

Definitely don't want to cheap out too much when it comes to power as fires can happen. I bought 2 of these with beermoney when they were ~$30 a piece. Have been great and don't get too hot. I am running 9 phones on one and 6 tablets with 1 phone on another. Would definitely recommend!

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484380291&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+10+port

I use the big usb-phone charger from anker - it can charge about 10 phones.. and i have had it running 4 pis at once.. this is not a Powered USB HUB.. but a Multi Port USB charger.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00YRYS4T4/

60 W of Power!

Here is a slightly smaller one.. but 63W of Power.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUTIUEA/

I ran a few pis, and was charging my tablet and phone.

From what i quickly googled - a Pi3 under full load - may use 4W of power.

https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/5033/how-much-energy-does-the-raspberry-pi-consume-in-a-day


So a 60W Supply should be able to handle 10 pi's but i would keep an eye on it to make sure it does not get hot.



I also have a 10 Port USB 3 powered USB HUB - with 3 'power only' usb ports. This lets me use the hub on the pi and power the same pi. But it is not 'exactly' what you asked for. But it is 60W - and very handy.. and can fast charge your phone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Find one with a built in Network port - for a pi zero - is also handy. :)


Wow - I have way to many electronic things for my Pi Collection. :)

I prefer Anker. This one is especially awesome. 10 ports, 2.4 Amps per port. (12 Amps max, so don't go too overboard). However, 10 Raspberry Pis all running balls-to-the-wall would be just fine.

I would use these plus these plus these plus this and build something simple that can be bolted to the counter, maybe just a basic cubby that has iphone on the left side and android on the other side.

For the Americans in the group, here's the US version on Amazon.

I would use something like this that's a single device.

I have some of the 6 port models and they don't run hot at all. I doubt you'd have a problem. Just check on it often in the first week to see if heat seems to be an issue.

You should be able to add a new meraki certificate with a blueprint (?) via apple configurator and get them back onto the mdm.

You'll need a macbook of some sort along with a usb powered hub (this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=psdc_2516700011_t1_B00B92DXOS), setup apple configurator 2 and use it to push the file and update ios (if it lets you) only. Test and see! I've imaged >1000 ipads with this method. It's slick if you get many ipads at once and a few extra hands.

I think it's not the lack of the box, but all the cables. I can't help but feel like that rack all the cables are on would be better holding the drives themselves, then use something like this if your drives are powered via individual 12V DC 'power bricks' or something like this if they are usb powered. Throw in some velcro cable wraps, and all of the sudden it goes from old n busted to new hotness.

I've been using a USB charger for mine for over a year without any issues. If you're worried, though, you can a smartport device from like anker or something. Here's what I've been using in Afghanistan. I keep one on my desk and one for travel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012WLUKHC/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YRYS4T4/

A powered USB hub is a very reasonable approach. Depending on what peripherals you want to add you may want more power per port. I actually like having these around in general: http://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerPort-Charging-Multi-Port-Packaging-/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ or http://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerPort-Charging-Multi-Port-Charger/dp/B00VH8ZW02/. However, I haven't tried one with the PI, just other devices. I have one coming in if you want to wait for me to try it.

Thanks - I suppose it does. I've been using this much cheaper alternative successfully, but I'll have more than ten devices in total now and I'm looking to streamline my bramble setup by racking it. I was just wondering if there was any issue I hadn't thought about (other than price) from using this rack PDU.

Should've asked on Reddit or researched online first. u/beermoneyme answered it right - it's a data hub. I purchased one almost identical to it on eBay that was sold as a charging hub and I got the same results as you. Talk to Amazon (or the seller) - you should be able to get a refund pretty easily.

After learning my lesson, I upped my game and got one of these. Anker's hubs are amazing, keep cool and take little to no space. I'll never go back to low quality, crappy looking hubs.

Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.

A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.

I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.

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On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.

Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.

I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.

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As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.

Are you talking about actually deploying the ESP32 out somewhere, or just for development? You mention deployment, but why do you need both during deployment? What boards are you using? Most of the development boards have a micro USB connector on them, so I power them from a bog standard 5v micro USB power supply. You can get USB hubs that will power 10 boards from one hub.

In terms of powering from 3.3 volts, I've powered it from a benchtop power supply (temporarily), I currently use a linear regulator when running off a battery, I've used a couple step down converters, and for when I actually need 3.3V and 5V power I got a couple boards like this - super cheap and handy. All these are connected to whatever random power supplies I have around, leftover from old devices, salvaged, etc. I have a couple 120VAC -> 5VDC power supplies, but I rarely end up using them.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but you generally shouldn't be powering the boards via 5V and 3.3V at the same time (at least with the boards I have). Did that provide an answer to your question, or have I completely missed this one?

You could block off two ports on this one, https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00YRYS4T4/

Okay, that makes more sense. It looked a bit odd when everything is placed to the right, but it makes sense now considering your gf is using the left side of the table.

Im retarded. I was looking right next to the thrash bin to the right, between the trash bin and the right table leg, i thought it was the side panel of some sort of drawer but i realized its your wall... Sorry :)

Ah yes. I now see the Kinect with the very visible Xbone logo. Again, im retarded :)

Honestly the most easiest and convenient way is to get a new table, preferably one thats L shaped. But i understand money doesnt grow on trees so i wouldnt recommend that.

Is the Google Pixels charger just an micro usb cable?

How do you charge your fitness tracker?

• If you have alot or few usb chargers for your fitness tracker and Pixel, maybe you have some more stuff. You can always buy a cheap USB hub. Those are very small and maybe you can place it on your desk, between your two monitors bases? And when you have to charge your stuff, when charging just place the item on top of the actual USB hub?
  
  
• As for the headset, its never easy to hide the headset cable as its quite long and goes across the table etc. Theres not much you can do about that one. However, when not using it, you can place it around your right speaker or buy a cheap headset stand that you can place just behind your speaker if it fits? Also if you are looking to buy a new one, alot of premium headsets come with a stand right out of the box with the actual headset itself.
  
  
• For cable management underneath the table, heres where the mighty IKEA comes in hand. You can pick up a sleeve or whatever you want to call it and mount it underneath your table, having all of your cables running through it, making it look very tidy. You can also place your powerstrip on it. I will drop a link for that one at the bottom.
  
  
• Yes. Move your pc and place it underneath your table to the right, next to the drawer. It will free up space on the drawer, maybe thats where you can place your headset stand?
  
  
• Move your thrash bin and place it somewhere else. It doesnt belong there. Maybe you can place it to the far right? On the right side of the drawer?
  
  
• I dont know what that blue thing to the left under your table is, im guessing some sort of foot rest. If you can move that somewhere else, it would be great. Place your subwoofer there and drag the cables upwards to the cable shroud thingy and through it and further. Or if you are really smart and if the cables are black, you can use some tape, but i would recommend a zip tipe and tie the cables on the actual far left leg upwards and finally throught the cable sleeve.
  
  
• If you want clear up some extra space, you can always put those things that are in the left corner, on your shelf to right if theres space? Or maybe the drawer?
  
  
• Me being me. If you dont have a place for your Xbox controller or just want it on the table. You can place it between the monitors bases, next to your future USB hub or on of the screens actual base. I think it makes it look more pretty.
  
  
• For all your small stuff thats on your table, like your keys and what not. Go ahead and just place them in your drawer or on top of the drawer once your pc is underneath your table. Maybe you can charge your fitness tracker and Pixel on top of the drawer? I think that would be great.
  
  I think ive covered everything unless im forgetting something?
  
  Also dont do anything until you have wall mounted your monitors. Like you said, it will make cable management alot easier one its all set up and you know where every cable goes.
  
  Links to, not what i recommend, but just some items that i think would help you out and so that you have the picture so you know what im talking about:
  
  
• Cable management sleeve shroud thingy - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/
  
  
• USB Hub - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488148512&sr=1-6&keywords=usb+hub
  
  
• Headset stand - https://www.amazon.com/Allsop-Universal-Adjustable-Management-31661/dp/B01G26QK6S/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488148553&sr=1-12&keywords=headset+stand
  
  
• Headset stand option #2 - https://www.amazon.com/Updated-AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Universal/dp/B01HD2EOQI/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488148553&sr=1-10&keywords=headset+stand
  
  
• Headset stand option #3 - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Aluminum-Portable-Headphone-Organizer/dp/B01HV85G1Q/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488148794&sr=1-8&keywords=headset+stand
  
  
• Zip ties - https://www.amazon.com/Cables-UK-2-5mm-100mm-Nylon/dp/B008XHMZXM/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488148835&sr=1-2&keywords=zip+ties
  
  

20 amps a 120v is a lot less power than 20amps at 5v (USB charging).

My understanding (please correct me if i'm wrong) - is that if I were to buy for example this Anker unit -
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-PowerPort-iPhone/dp/B00YRYS4T4


Is that it should use approximately 60 watts. (5v x 12amps)

Even if I rounded up to say 200 watts - a 15 amp circuit should be able to support at least 5 of these bricks.


I figured for safety, in case I have more devices than needed, computers to run them, losses due to conversion, etc- i'd have 6 circuits.

But please correct me If I'm mistaken.

Or here is a 10-port version

My bad - I confused watts/amps. I have 4 of these chargers. I thought if I had only one device plugged in, that device would get all 60W, which would be ~12a. Reading about it more carefully, the description says that the ports are surge protected and limited to 2.4a.

Ordered my Anker 60W 10-Port USB Wall Charger, PowerPort 10 on Sept. 29th, 2018, so I'll update you in 2 months.

You're better off to just buy one or two of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l4xtDbAAKE3Y0

You'll likely never make your own for cheaper or have it be safe or reliable or (most importantly) UL listed.

You can get USB power racks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Charger-Multi-Port-PowerPort/dp/B00YRYS4T4/

Anker 60W 10-Port USB Wall Charger, PowerPort 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jbOdzb9AXQ2VR