Reddit mentions of Finish Line Dry Bicycle Chain Lube with Teflon - 4oz Squeeze Bottle

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

noob here, so I can use wd-40 to clean the chain, then dry it with my air compressor then lube it up with this stuff?

Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oss_product

I had the same problem until someone told me to use the "dry" oil lubricant and not the "wet" oil lubricant. The "wet" stuff is very sticky (any dirt will stick to it) and I was told is better for mountain bikes that you need to keep working even when covered in mud and gunk. The "dry" stuff is less sticky, less viscous and better suited to road bikes. My chain and cassette is always shiny now.

What is your preferred chain lube? I’ve always used Finish Line Dry Lube but lately I’m finding the muck and grease build-up frustrating to maintain on two bikes.

I ride mostly in dry weather and always on sealed roads although I will come across some road dust from time to time.

Should I change lube or switch to a wax coated chain?

Nah, it was quite the opposite. I previously used some of the spray on lube, Tri-Flow, too much of it, and it attracted a bunch of grit that required a good degreasing to get rid of. I found it difficult to put the appropriate amount of lube on the chain with the aerosol spray can. After this eventful ride I used Brake Parts Cleaner to degrease the chain and components and the soapy water and a host to get the excess out. Once it was clean and dry I used Finish Line bike lube as directed and it's much better now.

Hi I've been using a chain cleaner I got off amazon with some citrus degreaser and then apply Finish Line dry/wet lube.

Would really like to get one of those nice bike stands like park tool but don't have the money, I just bought one of those bike hooks at the dollar store that goes on the wall of my shed.

This is a tough bike. I have one that's about forty years old. It doesn't take much care.

Besides tires and tubes, you also need new brake pads. Cheap but very important.

In order of increasing cost/benefit:

Clean the drive train (all the gears and the chain) with rags and a degreaser. Old toothbrushes and dish brushes can help with this. You want to remove all the black, caked grease and clean the components to the bare metal. Once they are clean, let them dry and lubricate them.

Have a LBS replace the brake and shifter cables and housings. You probably have the original ones. Replacing these greatly reduces the risk of snapping a cable or two on the road, something that can render the bike unrideable. It will also make shifting and braking much smoother.

If your LBS tells you your chain is worn out, they are probably right. This is also a cheap fix. It will make shifting smoother and protect your drive train from excessive wear. It also lowers the risk of a broken chain on the road, which again makes the bike unrideable.

Enjoy!

Go to Target then to the automotive section. Buy some brushes, shammies, and cleaning products. I like Armorall. Bike specific cleaning products are ridiculously overpriced.

Take your bike out in the yard and gently spray it with water. It might be tempting to really hose it down, but that'll just force dirt in places you don't want it. Then with a bucket of soapy water give it a good scrubbing. You might want two brushes, one for your bike and one for the drivetrain. Rinse and repeat until your bike is sparkling.

Finally dry off your bike with a shammy. Again you'll probably want a separate shammy for your drivetrain.

Finally lube your bike. That means put a drop on your chainlinks, inside your shifters, on your derailleurs, pretty much on any moving part.

I like the dry lube, but if you're riding in wet conditions wet lube is fine. Your LBS should carry both kinds.

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

Just did some lubing on some ambers earlier this week and I used Dupont dry lube with teflon and just used it on the sliders and the housings with a small paint brush and it was set. The switches felt great for me and are very highly recommended if you fork over the money.

I've heard of getting the bi-metal cleats from peloton (chat) to using a dry teflon lube very sparingly on the cleats (like apply it with a q-tip) - https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Chain-Teflon/dp/B002IDZXRM/

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

Just regular Finish Line dry lube.

Everyone has a favorite chain lube. I use Finish Line. Honestly, it doesn't make too much difference which lube you use, as long as it's one specially formulated for chains. Some are designed for wet conditions, which is good for some people.

For cleaning, pick up some automotive degreaser. Bike-specific degreaser is expensive and isn't really much better.

To clean the chain, you can usually just use a rag and some degreaser. A chain cleaning tool (the ones with three internal brushes) is handy, but not required. Always lube after cleaning, which should be done every 100-200 miles.

If you really want a clean drivetrain, I highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. Very effective at cleaning the cassette and chain, with almost no effort. Just remember to relube the chain really, really well after cleaning it.

Then you'll lose the lubricant again, unfortunately :) There are dry lubricants that can help, while avoiding attracting dust/grit.

There is a bike lube that I like for stuff like this, Finish Line Dry Lubricant. It goes on as a clear liquid, and dries dry, which is really nice. It's handy for a range of things around the house, it doesn't leave a mess like oil, and it doesn't attract grit.

This is the liquid version, there is also an aerosol can type:
Finish Line Dry Bicycle Chain Lube with Teflon - 4oz Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vivxDbKQY3FYN

Hey sorry for the very late reply /u/gbchk! I have been really busy with a lot of stuff these last 2 weeks, and hence haven't gotten the chance to properly reply to you.

With regards to a good dry lube, I mentioned in my build log that a Dry PTFE lube should be good for the ALPS switch. I personally used the WD-40 PTFE lube, though any other Dry PTFE lube should work as well. As you can see from the build log, I referenced a [youtube comment] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msOYzgb1IT4) that mentioned another dry lube that you might be able to try, the Finish Line dry film PTFE lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Also, I have updated my main comment with the link to the album which showcases how I lubed my ALPS. Hopefully this will serve you well as a guide.

Sorry again for the late reply, and have fun with whatever project you may have now!

Techkeys just restocked the thick lube. I just used this stuff to do a bunch of MX Clears. It made them buttery smooth without losing any of the bump.

Welcome to /r/mechanicalkeyboards/ limmy!

I'll edit out the Limmy snark! Thanks for the correction.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/?tag=hyprod-20&hvadid=15468055299&hvpos=1o3&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=159926366464748378&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&ref=asc_df_B002IDZXRM

That's actually easy to get, i mean the stuff like this.

First. READ UP ON HYDRAULIC BRAKES BEFORE YOU START. DO NOT ALLOW THE LEVERS TO COMPRESS W/O A ROTOR OR BLEED BLOCK BETWEEN THE PADS OR YOU'LL HYPEREXTEND THE PISTONS. OTHERWISE:

You're lucky. If your bike has hydraulic brakes there is probably very little on your bike you can't disassemble with a set of hex keys from 2.5-10mm, possibly a T-25 torx, and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. Depending on your wheels you'll need cone wrenches to set the bearings and depending on your crankset and bottom bracket you MAY need specialty tools. To work on your cassette (I'm ASSUMING CASSETTE DUE TO HYDRAULIC BRAKES) you'll need a cassette lockring tool AND a chainwhip (or other method to hold onto the cassette).

Let's see some specs or photos.



When it comes to assembly, though, especially for the stem and saddle, torque matters.

$7 Park Polylube or $10 Phil's waterproof grease or Marine grease

and

$6 TriFlow or $8 Finish Line Dry

and

$8 lifetime supple of anti-sieze for all metal-to-metal (including threads) which does not move or get frequently disassembled

and



$16 at Sears, $10 at Harbor Freight socket-drive Allen set

0-9 nM torque wrench for $22. A VERY useful range extension over the 0-7 of the Park Tool TW-1. And do not be afraid of cheap beam wrenches! Be afraid of expensive clickers but not cheap beam!

$2 T-25 socket drive (brake rotors)

$15 chain tool

$7 cassette lockring tool

$7 shitty chainwhip (you need something to hold cassette to use cassette lockring tool)

I strongly suggest the above torque wrench (or its equivalent) for all small bolts on a bike. If you want to be safe with the big bolts (mostly on the bottom bracket and crankset depending on styles) you also need:

$25 at Sears, $15-20 at Harbor Freight or auto parts stores high-torque torque wrench (Much less often needed)

EDIT: Spelling fixes and some minor rewording.

I've heard that this dry teflon lubricant is supposed to work well.
Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

I suggest using some Teflon Dry Lube. /s