Reddit mentions: The best bike lube

>It’s easy to buy a bike, but it’s often a lot harder to actually ride it. Bikes have a lot of advantages over cars, but ease of use is not one of them. If you don’t have a strong biking habit, a lot of excuses can and will creep in. “I don’t want to wear different clothes.” “What if it rains?” “I need to stop by the grocery store and don’t want to carry my groceries on my handlebars.” Let these excuses win often enough and your bike will end up in the dusty corner of the garage or basement until you sell it on craigslist for $50.00.
>
>I worked at a bike shop, and I built up a commuter bike to remove as many inconveniences as possible, so all I had to do different to take my bike instead of my car was throw on a helmet on and maybe a jacket. While my coworkers were bragging about how they reduced the weight of their bike by 20 grams, I was adding kilograms to mine to make it more suited for running errands in all kinds of weather. I’m sharing my process on how to remove as many excuses as possible and make your bike as convenient as a car, so you will be prepared to take your bike out in more situations without a whole lot of extra planning for every single trip.
>
>Couple things to point out: Most of what I’m going to recommend here is adding accessories to your bike to make it more convenient. So some of these suggestions will get a bit expensive. I am also linking to a few websites, including amazon, to better show you what I am talking about. These are not necessarily specific endorsements. If I don’t mention a particular brand, then it is probably just the first search result I found that looks like it meets my criteria. I do not have an affiliate program with any of these websites and I am not receiving any sort of compensation from them. And of course, all the information here does not replace actual research on your part or advice from a bike shop. I will point out any tricky situations I am aware of, and all of these accessories are designed so the handy home-user can install them easily. A lot of these accessories don’t come with instructions, so look up a tutorial online before installing. And if you don’t feel confident in your DIY skills, take it in to a bike shop for installation.
>
>First some essentials: I’ll get into specific issues with bike commuting and how to fix them in a minute. But before you start adding optional accessories, here’s a couple things every serious cyclist should have on hand:
>
> Helmet: Duh. Always ride safe. If you haven’t been happy with helmets previously, consider going to a bike shop and getting a nicer one that will fit better.
>
> Pump(s): Check your tires at least once a week. Biking on low tires takes a LOT more effort. I’d recommend a nice floor pump with a gauge, and a frame pump in case you run into trouble on the road.
>
> Patch kit/spare tube/tire levers: If you’re going to be biking for reasons other than leisure and need to be somewhere on time, make sure that a nail or shard of glass won’t bring your day to a screeching halt. Keep either a patch kit or spare tube with you, and learn how to take the tire off BEFORE you have to do it in a real-life scenario. Also make sure you know how to use your frame pump beforehand too.
>
> Tools (optional): Buying accessories for your bike can be expensive. Paying your local bike shop to install them will be more expensive. Most accessories I talk about here will go on with normal hand tools. EVERYTHING ON THE BIKE WILL BE METRIC! The most common tools you will need for these accessories are 3,4, and 5 mm Allen keys, various wrenches from 8mm to 15mm, and some screwdrivers. If you are planning to do bike maintenance yourself, a great place to start would be getting a good set of metric Allen keys, sizes 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10, and metric wrenches, sizes 6-17. There are more specific tools out there, but these will get you started.
>
> Chain lube: The most missed maintenance issue is chain lube. You should be lubing your chain once a week. This will keep the chain from squeaking but also extend the lifespan of the chain and your gears. Make sure you use a bike specific lubricant like this one. Spray lubricants like WD-40 can actually blast contaminants INTO your chain’s bushings, and if you’re not careful, they can get elsewhere and cause trouble. If you have disc brakes, be especially careful of getting anything on the rotors or brake pads. I once had to replace $60 worth of brake parts on a brand new bicycle because the customer got careless with WD-40. Apply the lube by hand and wipe the excess off with a non-linty rag.
>
>The weather When I vowed to ride my bike more, I had a long and wet June while I waited until I could afford a new bike. That meant a lot of days pedaling in the rain and daydreaming about all the accessories I would get to make riding in rain easier. Here’s what I got, in order from highest to lowest importance:
>
> Wet lube: In the essentials, I recommended dry lube. It works great, but it does wash off easily, so if you are going to be biking in wet weather, it’s good to use wet lube. It’s thicker, more viscous, and keeps the water out of the chain bushings. Since it stays on your chain more, it does attract dirt more. So I recommend wiping your chain down after your ride and relubing it with dry lube before too long.
>
> An impermeable saddle: If you’re thinking of biking in wet weather, think about that when you choose a saddle. Most regular saddles have no problems with rain. It’s only leather and perhaps the fuzzy gel ones that can be trouble. Consider that before throwing down for a leather Brooks saddle. In a pinch, you can throw a plastic bag over your saddle, but that takes away the aesthetic appeal a bit.
>
> Rain coat: Pretty obvious, but while you can get away with just a regular coat in the rain if you’re just running from the car to the store, you will get absolutely soaked if you do the same on the bike. If you’re buying a new rain coat, consider getting a hi-visibility one. With a little bit of digging you can find some reflective options that won’t make you look like you should be directing traffic. Also look for one with vents, since you’ll be exercising while out there and a rain coat can’t keep you dry if you’re sweating under it.
>
> Fenders: Keeps the rain off your back and knees. You can get a clip-on rear fender for pretty cheap that works well, but if your bike is there to get you around no matter the weather, it’s worth considering shelling out for a permanent set. Short of grabbing a rain coat, there’s no extra step before hopping on the bike. If your bike has disc brakes, make sure the fenders you get are disc brake specific. Your fenders should come with specific installation instructions.
>
> Waterproof pannier: Make sure any panniers you get are waterproof. Again, it just eliminates one step and one excuse to keep you from hopping your bike if there’s a light rain. See the Running Errands section for more details.
>
> Lights: I researched several different lights when building up my bike. My goal was to have lights that would always be on my bike, with no risk of theft. In the end, after weighing all the pros and cons, I stuck with a conventional set of headlights and taillights. If you are going to be biking at night, I’d recommend something with at least 450 Lumens for the headlight. Anything less and you’ll be relying on streetlights to see your path. Most places in the U.S. require the lights to blink to be street legal.
>
>You can buy theft-proof bike lights but the brightest light they have is 300 lumens, which in my opinion not bright enough for biking at night or in really bad weather. I’ve tried solar powered lights that need a special tool to be removed. The manufacturer’s website claims you can charge them up during the summer and ride all through the winter, but I barely managed to get them fully charged to survive a single round trip biking to work in the day time and biking back at night. And the light isn’t strong enough to light your path. I’m curious about lights that use your bike wheel as a generator, but they don’t work with disc brakes. Probably the best bet would be to get a dynamo hub and build up a wheel around that to your permanently mounted lights. Then you can have light anytime you’re moving without ever having to think about it and with no chance of someone swiping your light because you forgot to pop it off. It would require building a wheel from scratch, which in parts alone would have cost as much as the rest of my bike. That was more than I was willing to do/spend, so I just went with a 700 lumen headlight and have to remember to bring it with me.
>
> Cycling cap: A small brimmed cap that has a low profile to go under your helmet. Helps keep the rain out of your eyes, and doesn’t add much hassle. Just put it on before donning your helmet.
>

>It’s easy to buy a bike, but it’s often a lot harder to actually ride it. Bikes have a lot of advantages over cars, but ease of use is not one of them. If you don’t have a strong biking habit, a lot of excuses can and will creep in. “I don’t want to wear different clothes.” “What if it rains?” “I need to stop by the grocery store and don’t want to carry my groceries on my handlebars.” Let these excuses win often enough and your bike will end up in the dusty corner of the garage or basement until you sell it on craigslist for $50.00.
>
>I worked at a bike shop, and I built up a commuter bike to remove as many inconveniences as possible, so all I had to do different to take my bike instead of my car was throw on a helmet on and maybe a jacket. While my coworkers were bragging about how they reduced the weight of their bike by 20 grams, I was adding kilograms to mine to make it more suited for running errands in all kinds of weather. I’m sharing my process on how to remove as many excuses as possible and make your bike as convenient as a car, so you will be prepared to take your bike out in more situations without a whole lot of extra planning for every single trip.
>
>Couple things to point out: Most of what I’m going to recommend here is adding accessories to your bike to make it more convenient. So some of these suggestions will get a bit expensive. I am also linking to a few websites, including amazon, to better show you what I am talking about. These are not necessarily specific endorsements. If I don’t mention a particular brand, then it is probably just the first search result I found that looks like it meets my criteria. I do not have an affiliate program with any of these websites and I am not receiving any sort of compensation from them. And of course, all the information here does not replace actual research on your part or advice from a bike shop. I will point out any tricky situations I am aware of, and all of these accessories are designed so the handy home-user can install them easily. A lot of these accessories don’t come with instructions, so look up a tutorial online before installing. And if you don’t feel confident in your DIY skills, take it in to a bike shop for installation.
>
>First some essentials: I’ll get into specific issues with bike commuting and how to fix them in a minute. But before you start adding optional accessories, here’s a couple things every serious cyclist should have on hand:
>
> Helmet: Duh. Always ride safe. If you haven’t been happy with helmets previously, consider going to a bike shop and getting a nicer one that will fit better.
>
> Pump(s): Check your tires at least once a week. Biking on low tires takes a LOT more effort. I’d recommend a nice floor pump with a gauge, and a frame pump in case you run into trouble on the road.
>
> Patch kit/spare tube/tire levers: If you’re going to be biking for reasons other than leisure and need to be somewhere on time, make sure that a nail or shard of glass won’t bring your day to a screeching halt. Keep either a patch kit or spare tube with you, and learn how to take the tire off BEFORE you have to do it in a real-life scenario. Also make sure you know how to use your frame pump beforehand too.
>
> Tools (optional): Buying accessories for your bike can be expensive. Paying your local bike shop to install them will be more expensive. Most accessories I talk about here will go on with normal hand tools. EVERYTHING ON THE BIKE WILL BE METRIC! The most common tools you will need for these accessories are 3,4, and 5 mm Allen keys, various wrenches from 8mm to 15mm, and some screwdrivers. If you are planning to do bike maintenance yourself, a great place to start would be getting a good set of metric Allen keys, sizes 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10, and metric wrenches, sizes 6-17. There are more specific tools out there, but these will get you started.
>
> Chain lube: The most missed maintenance issue is chain lube. You should be lubing your chain once a week. This will keep the chain from squeaking but also extend the lifespan of the chain and your gears. Make sure you use a bike specific lubricant like this one. Spray lubricants like WD-40 can actually blast contaminants INTO your chain’s bushings, and if you’re not careful, they can get elsewhere and cause trouble. If you have disc brakes, be especially careful of getting anything on the rotors or brake pads. I once had to replace $60 worth of brake parts on a brand new bicycle because the customer got careless with WD-40. Apply the lube by hand and wipe the excess off with a non-linty rag.
>
>The weather When I vowed to ride my bike more, I had a long and wet June while I waited until I could afford a new bike. That meant a lot of days pedaling in the rain and daydreaming about all the accessories I would get to make riding in rain easier. Here’s what I got, in order from highest to lowest importance:
>
> Wet lube: In the essentials, I recommended dry lube. It works great, but it does wash off easily, so if you are going to be biking in wet weather, it’s good to use wet lube. It’s thicker, more viscous, and keeps the water out of the chain bushings. Since it stays on your chain more, it does attract dirt more. So I recommend wiping your chain down after your ride and relubing it with dry lube before too long.
>
> An impermeable saddle: If you’re thinking of biking in wet weather, think about that when you choose a saddle. Most regular saddles have no problems with rain. It’s only leather and perhaps the fuzzy gel ones that can be trouble. Consider that before throwing down for a leather Brooks saddle. In a pinch, you can throw a plastic bag over your saddle, but that takes away the aesthetic appeal a bit.
>
> Rain coat: Pretty obvious, but while you can get away with just a regular coat in the rain if you’re just running from the car to the store, you will get absolutely soaked if you do the same on the bike. If you’re buying a new rain coat, consider getting a hi-visibility one. With a little bit of digging you can find some reflective options that won’t make you look like you should be directing traffic. Also look for one with vents, since you’ll be exercising while out there and a rain coat can’t keep you dry if you’re sweating under it.
>
> Fenders: Keeps the rain off your back and knees. You can get a clip-on rear fender for pretty cheap that works well, but if your bike is there to get you around no matter the weather, it’s worth considering shelling out for a permanent set. Short of grabbing a rain coat, there’s no extra step before hopping on the bike. If your bike has disc brakes, make sure the fenders you get are disc brake specific. Your fenders should come with specific installation instructions.
>
> Waterproof pannier: Make sure any panniers you get are waterproof. Again, it just eliminates one step and one excuse to keep you from hopping your bike if there’s a light rain. See the Running Errands section for more details.
>
> Lights: I researched several different lights when building up my bike. My goal was to have lights that would always be on my bike, with no risk of theft. In the end, after weighing all the pros and cons, I stuck with a conventional set of headlights and taillights. If you are going to be biking at night, I’d recommend something with at least 450 Lumens for the headlight. Anything less and you’ll be relying on streetlights to see your path. Most places in the U.S. require the lights to blink to be street legal.
>
>You can buy theft-proof bike lights but the brightest light they have is 300 lumens, which in my opinion not bright enough for biking at night or in really bad weather. I’ve tried solar powered lights that need a special tool to be removed. The manufacturer’s website claims you can charge them up during the summer and ride all through the winter, but I barely managed to get them fully charged to survive a single round trip biking to work in the day time and biking back at night. And the light isn’t strong enough to light your path. I’m curious about lights that use your bike wheel as a generator, but they don’t work with disc brakes. Probably the best bet would be to get a dynamo hub and build up a wheel around that to your permanently mounted lights. Then you can have light anytime you’re moving without ever having to think about it and with no chance of someone swiping your light because you forgot to pop it off. It would require building a wheel from scratch, which in parts alone would have cost as much as the rest of my bike. That was more than I was willing to do/spend, so I just went with a 700 lumen headlight and have to remember to bring it with me.
>
> Cycling cap: A small brimmed cap that has a low profile to go under your helmet. Helps keep the rain out of your eyes, and doesn’t add much hassle. Just put it on before donning your helmet.
>

>It’s easy to buy a bike, but it’s often a lot harder to actually ride it. Bikes have a lot of advantages over cars, but ease of use is not one of them. If you don’t have a strong biking habit, a lot of excuses can and will creep in. “I don’t want to wear different clothes.” “What if it rains?” “I need to stop by the grocery store and don’t want to carry my groceries on my handlebars.” Let these excuses win often enough and your bike will end up in the dusty corner of the garage or basement until you sell it on craigslist for $50.00.
>
>I worked at a bike shop, and I built up a commuter bike to remove as many inconveniences as possible, so all I had to do different to take my bike instead of my car was throw on a helmet on and maybe a jacket. While my coworkers were bragging about how they reduced the weight of their bike by 20 grams, I was adding kilograms to mine to make it more suited for running errands in all kinds of weather. I’m sharing my process on how to remove as many excuses as possible and make your bike as convenient as a car, so you will be prepared to take your bike out in more situations without a whole lot of extra planning for every single trip.
>
>Couple things to point out: Most of what I’m going to recommend here is adding accessories to your bike to make it more convenient. So some of these suggestions will get a bit expensive. I am also linking to a few websites, including amazon, to better show you what I am talking about. These are not necessarily specific endorsements. If I don’t mention a particular brand, then it is probably just the first search result I found that looks like it meets my criteria. I do not have an affiliate program with any of these websites and I am not receiving any sort of compensation from them. And of course, all the information here does not replace actual research on your part or advice from a bike shop. I will point out any tricky situations I am aware of, and all of these accessories are designed so the handy home-user can install them easily. A lot of these accessories don’t come with instructions, so look up a tutorial online before installing. And if you don’t feel confident in your DIY skills, take it in to a bike shop for installation.
>
>First some essentials: I’ll get into specific issues with bike commuting and how to fix them in a minute. But before you start adding optional accessories, here’s a couple things every serious cyclist should have on hand:
>
> Helmet: Duh. Always ride safe. If you haven’t been happy with helmets previously, consider going to a bike shop and getting a nicer one that will fit better.
>
> Pump(s): Check your tires at least once a week. Biking on low tires takes a LOT more effort. I’d recommend a nice floor pump with a gauge, and a frame pump in case you run into trouble on the road.
>
> Patch kit/spare tube/tire levers: If you’re going to be biking for reasons other than leisure and need to be somewhere on time, make sure that a nail or shard of glass won’t bring your day to a screeching halt. Keep either a patch kit or spare tube with you, and learn how to take the tire off BEFORE you have to do it in a real-life scenario. Also make sure you know how to use your frame pump beforehand too.
>
> Tools (optional): Buying accessories for your bike can be expensive. Paying your local bike shop to install them will be more expensive. Most accessories I talk about here will go on with normal hand tools. EVERYTHING ON THE BIKE WILL BE METRIC! The most common tools you will need for these accessories are 3,4, and 5 mm Allen keys, various wrenches from 8mm to 15mm, and some screwdrivers. If you are planning to do bike maintenance yourself, a great place to start would be getting a good set of metric Allen keys, sizes 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10, and metric wrenches, sizes 6-17. There are more specific tools out there, but these will get you started.
>
> Chain lube: The most missed maintenance issue is chain lube. You should be lubing your chain once a week. This will keep the chain from squeaking but also extend the lifespan of the chain and your gears. Make sure you use a bike specific lubricant like this one. Spray lubricants like WD-40 can actually blast contaminants INTO your chain’s bushings, and if you’re not careful, they can get elsewhere and cause trouble. If you have disc brakes, be especially careful of getting anything on the rotors or brake pads. I once had to replace $60 worth of brake parts on a brand new bicycle because the customer got careless with WD-40. Apply the lube by hand and wipe the excess off with a non-linty rag.
>
>The weather When I vowed to ride my bike more, I had a long and wet June while I waited until I could afford a new bike. That meant a lot of days pedaling in the rain and daydreaming about all the accessories I would get to make riding in rain easier. Here’s what I got, in order from highest to lowest importance:
>
> Wet lube: In the essentials, I recommended dry lube. It works great, but it does wash off easily, so if you are going to be biking in wet weather, it’s good to use wet lube. It’s thicker, more viscous, and keeps the water out of the chain bushings. Since it stays on your chain more, it does attract dirt more. So I recommend wiping your chain down after your ride and relubing it with dry lube before too long.
>
> An impermeable saddle: If you’re thinking of biking in wet weather, think about that when you choose a saddle. Most regular saddles have no problems with rain. It’s only leather and perhaps the fuzzy gel ones that can be trouble. Consider that before throwing down for a leather Brooks saddle. In a pinch, you can throw a plastic bag over your saddle, but that takes away the aesthetic appeal a bit.
>
> Rain coat: Pretty obvious, but while you can get away with just a regular coat in the rain if you’re just running from the car to the store, you will get absolutely soaked if you do the same on the bike. If you’re buying a new rain coat, consider getting a hi-visibility one. With a little bit of digging you can find some reflective options that won’t make you look like you should be directing traffic. Also look for one with vents, since you’ll be exercising while out there and a rain coat can’t keep you dry if you’re sweating under it.
>
> Fenders: Keeps the rain off your back and knees. You can get a clip-on rear fender for pretty cheap that works well, but if your bike is there to get you around no matter the weather, it’s worth considering shelling out for a permanent set. Short of grabbing a rain coat, there’s no extra step before hopping on the bike. If your bike has disc brakes, make sure the fenders you get are disc brake specific. Your fenders should come with specific installation instructions.
>
> Waterproof pannier: Make sure any panniers you get are waterproof. Again, it just eliminates one step and one excuse to keep you from hopping your bike if there’s a light rain. See the Running Errands section for more details.
>
> Lights: I researched several different lights when building up my bike. My goal was to have lights that would always be on my bike, with no risk of theft. In the end, after weighing all the pros and cons, I stuck with a conventional set of headlights and taillights. If you are going to be biking at night, I’d recommend something with at least 450 Lumens for the headlight. Anything less and you’ll be relying on streetlights to see your path. Most places in the U.S. require the lights to blink to be street legal.
>
>You can buy theft-proof bike lights but the brightest light they have is 300 lumens, which in my opinion not bright enough for biking at night or in really bad weather. I’ve tried solar powered lights that need a special tool to be removed. The manufacturer’s website claims you can charge them up during the summer and ride all through the winter, but I barely managed to get them fully charged to survive a single round trip biking to work in the day time and biking back at night. And the light isn’t strong enough to light your path. I’m curious about lights that use your bike wheel as a generator, but they don’t work with disc brakes. Probably the best bet would be to get a dynamo hub and build up a wheel around that to your permanently mounted lights. Then you can have light anytime you’re moving without ever having to think about it and with no chance of someone swiping your light because you forgot to pop it off. It would require building a wheel from scratch, which in parts alone would have cost as much as the rest of my bike. That was more than I was willing to do/spend, so I just went with a 700 lumen headlight and have to remember to bring it with me.
>
> Cycling cap: A small brimmed cap that has a low profile to go under your helmet. Helps keep the rain out of your eyes, and doesn’t add much hassle. Just put it on before donning your helmet.
>

A newbie myself but, as said above, definitely take care when removing the keycaps. The stems are prone to breaking and getting stuck in the switch.

 

Since you have to take the switches apart in order to swap out the sliders for the Nexus sliders, invest in a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner. That is the one I got and, while not the best, it gets the job done. Get one of these as well.

1. Take all the switches apart. You should have the slider, the top housing, the spring, the tactile leaf, and the bottom housing with the contact leaf. Some people like to take out the contact leaf from the bottom housing but I like to leave it in.
   
   
2. Clean each group of parts in the ultrasonic cleaner with cool water and 1-2 dental tabs. I use cool water because the water gets pretty warm after 10-15 minutes of cleaning.
   
   
3. Once cleaned, lay them out on something like a napkin separated from each other, place them somewhere where they can stay relatively dust free (otherwise why even clean it) and let them dry for minimum 24 hours. Mine dried quicker but better safe than sorry.
   
    
   
   Since you say the springs are light for your tastes (same for me) you can buy replacement springs. People will warn you about SPRiT because of how he handled things in the past but he's the only person I know of who has Alps replacement springs. For me to truly enjoy these switches, I needed heavier springs so I decided to reach out to SPRiT through his website and hope for the best. I got my first order and my second order from him has already shipped. (Do note that Korea Post took about 35 days to deliver to me and the tracking didn't update at all since it left Korea. This may not be their fault, though, as I later realized I was using a service called Aftership and not Korea Posts website to track my order.)
   
   
    
   
   I'm no lubing expert but I have lubed some alps using RO59. I've been recommended this lube, as well. The basic gist of lubing goes:
   
   
4. Lube the two sides of the slider.
   
   
5. (Optional) Lube the two sides of the slider that make contact with the tactile leaf and contact leaf. This will likely cause a decrease in tactility.
   
   
6. Lube the rails of the top housing where the slider makes contact.
   
   
7. (Optional) Lube the inside of the slider, where the spring goes mainly.
   
   
8. (Optional) Lube the spring.
   
    
   
   Putting it all back together is pretty simple. If you're patient enough to wait, I'd go ahead and wait for the Nexus GB to ship. If not, Alps switches are able to be opened without desoldering, so you can go ahead and do a build now and replace the slider later.
   
    
   
    
   
   I hope I've helped :)

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

I typically clean my guns after any range trip, but I am not as OCD about it as I was trained to be.

One thing I do always use is some form of a CLP. I like using something like that because if I leave a little behind in some hard-to-clean area of the gun, it will still provide an oil-like protective film. I cringe when I hear people use something like brake cleaner on their guns to de-grease them. If they miss a spot oiling/lubing afterward they have left bare metal exposed - pretty much guaranteed to rust.

Break-Free - was always a good stand by.

Tri-Flow - is similar to Break Free, I just seem to like it better (once heard it was created by one of the two original Break Free partners after their split. Not sure of the validity of that story.).

Strike Hold - This is just the best of the bunch. It does all it is supposed to: penetrates well, makes it easy to clean the gun, and it provides stellar protection after wiping it all down when finishing up. You could use just this and do well for your guns.

Ballistol - no long-term assessment yet. I seem to still reach right past the Ballistol can and grab the Strike Hold spray bottle. I suppose one of these days I will have to make a serious attempt at learning for myself if this is the way to go.

To check spokes: if you can shake the spoke and it's loose, it is probably broken.

I'm not surprised the tires are still in good shape, but with all that glass on the sidewalks you may want something a little more durable. Or, you could ride on the roads, if you're comfortable with that.

The loud sound is definitely something to try and figure out. Although, if the Schwinn is a cheaply built machine then you may need to replace some major things with higher quality components just to get the trike to run better for a longer period of time.

This [chain lube](Tri-Flow TF0021060 Superior Lubricant Drip Bottle- 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L9K9HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZgD4BbDKPCEWX) is what the bike shop I used to work at used.

Based on what you've said, a different bicycle might be something to look into. I know you said you have a low income, and that is highly prohibitive. But I would say keep an eye out for any chance at landing a replacement.
But for now, try your best to stay on top of the repairs to the best of your ability.

A single speed will be great for getting around Madison and will require a minimum of maintenance. The two big things are keeping your tires inflated and keeping your chain lubricated and clean. If you have a floor pump for your tires great, otherwise there are tons of places that offer free air for bikes (bike shops, etc.). A small drop of this or similar on each chain link once a week followed by a thorough wipe down will keep your drive train happy. Do this more often if you're frequently riding in the rain or dusty/muddy/dirty conditions.

Fenders. You probably want them if you're going to be relying on your bike to commute and don't want to arrive at your destination with a mud stain going up your back. Plus they'll keep your bike cleaner.

If it's within your budget, I recommend getting lights that are USB rechargeable. I have a NiteRider Solas 2 tail light which I think I paid $45 for at my local bike store, but you can get it on Amazon for $34. It's a great light, you never have to worry about buying batteries, and mother earth will love you. I generally just bring mine into work with me and plug them into my computer during the work day so they're always fully charged and at peak brightness.

Other than that, any bike shop will have a paper fold-out map of all the bike lanes and routes around Madison. Google Maps can be useful too, though I still haven't figure out how to get the new version to just show all bike routes without putting in start/end addresses.

Looks like a very practical bike, though if that saddle height is right the bike may be a bit large. If your legs are more than a little bent at the bottom of the stroke it's hard on the knees and a lot of extra effort. If you have it low to keep your feet on the ground starting/stopping, try standing in front of the saddle when you're stopped, only sitting down once you're going.

Those flat fenders are definitely better than nothing but not actually good; spray from the wheel gets thrown sideways at you. If you do plan all-weather riding, get some good, long fenders, like SKS Longboards. The front fender needs to be lower than 9 o'clock to keep dirty spray off your feet and chaingear.

A lot of U-locks come with fixtures for attaching them to the frame - tidy and convenient.

Since this is your first bike, any time you wonder about adjusting or fixing something, check out http://sheldonbrown.com. It's a treasure trove for maintenance and repair, starting with chain lubing and fixing flats. It's very satisfying and quite easy to become self-sufficient to a some level, leaving visiting the bike shop for more major work.

First things I'd consider getting, in order:

• lube (I love Boeshield T-9) - lube pays for itself rapidly in reduced wear.
  
• pump
  
• puncture repair kit (but only if you learn & practice how to use it)
  
• multi-tool
  
  Either get a puncture repair kit with tire levers, or a multi-tool including tire levers.
  
  When you understand your bike and can keep it running smoothly, you love it ever more.

I spent $600 on an entry-level road bike and about another $600 on accessories last month. First time biking since I was a kid with a budget MTB. Pretty happy with my current setup outside of my evil saddle.

Here are some accessories I got which I think are potentially missing from your list or are just good fits for what you want (not going to talk about stuff like a saddle bag since the right choice for that differs by person/bike):

• Cell phone mount if you want to use your phone for whatever reason (music and GPS for me)
  
• More comfortable saddle/gel cover (my stock saddle is torture and my gel cover doesn't completely help, will probably buy a better saddle at some point)
  
• Cycling socks/cycling shoes/clipless pedals (Not sure what would be stock/default for you. It was my first time using clipless pedals with the purchase last month. I am very comfortable with them now. I recommend swapping to the pedals you want sooner rather than later.)
  
• Maybe go with a CO2 inflator and cartridges if you don't want to carry a pump with you
  
• Reflective vest if you want to bike at low visibility
  
• Helmet mirror if you are the least bit concerned about vehicles
  
• Multi-tool like this
  
• Get degreaser and lubricant for monthly chain maintenance
  
  Try to get a bike fit done. Those can be expensive though. The best tip I can share regarding fit from my limited experience is "your saddle is probably too low".

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

Here is my work bench. At this point, I can build and tear down bikes. I just replace a headset yesterday, and I have all the tools, for example. So, it's probably overkill for most other people. There are a few things I cannot do, and it's because the tools are too exotic, like BB86 press fit bearing remover, threading the threaded fork, etc.

• I started from a Nashbar's deluxe tool kit but I think this one is way better.
  
• A repair stand is really nice to have, and I'd recommend the Feedback sports' stand.
  
• Torque wrench - I bought one from Nashbar.com. Wait until they do 20% or more off day. I also have a 5Nm torque wrench - similar to this one. For handlebar adjustment, this makes life a lot easier. You can get away with just 5Nm one for most cases.
  
• Stanlay locking adjustable wrench. I use this for so many situation, like installing bottom bracket and headset.
  
• Combination and box wrenches - any brand
  
• Ratchet wrenches 8mm - 12mm. Go find cheap ones on ebay. Makes life a lot easier.
  
• Ryobi 18v inflator with SKS presta adapter.
  
• Park tool master linke plier
  
• Progold grease
  
• T9 oil
  
• Wheel stand
  
  I also have Nashbar's crown race installer, remover, headset cup press and remover, and steering tube cutting guide. Head set cup press is rather expensive so unless you are going to service the headset multiple times, it's better to use LBS or bike coop.
  
  
  
  

Everyone has a favorite chain lube. I use Finish Line. Honestly, it doesn't make too much difference which lube you use, as long as it's one specially formulated for chains. Some are designed for wet conditions, which is good for some people.

For cleaning, pick up some automotive degreaser. Bike-specific degreaser is expensive and isn't really much better.

To clean the chain, you can usually just use a rag and some degreaser. A chain cleaning tool (the ones with three internal brushes) is handy, but not required. Always lube after cleaning, which should be done every 100-200 miles.

If you really want a clean drivetrain, I highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. Very effective at cleaning the cassette and chain, with almost no effort. Just remember to relube the chain really, really well after cleaning it.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

I asked this last week, but it was late (Saturday or Sunday) and no one answered, so I'm asking again :)

This weekend I got a new bike. It's my first bike that is over $100, and I want to make sure I don't destroy it because I'm not maintaining it well.

Immediately after buying it, I took it out on some light dirt/sand trails. When I got home, I noticed a lot of sand on the chain, and in some of the gears and other pieces of the bike. I took my air compressor and blew the sand off, and it seemed pretty clean. Should I be doing anything else to clean the bike and chain after a ride like this? Is it okay to have some light sand in the chain, or will I eventually destroy it?

I'm probably going to buy some chain degreaser/cleaner and lube; but I wanted to check with you all first!

Congrats on the new group set! It'll serve you well. This is a great time to do a complete teardown on the bike, clean it and re-build it fresh.

I'd suggest stripping the bike down to its bare essentials, including disassembling the pivots. Check the bearings especially for wear, as those often get missed. The only thing you might not be able to get out is the headset cups, which are pressed into the frame. Don't worry about those, but do take apart the headset and grease the bearings.

For lubrication and fluids, I'd suggest getting a can of
Tri-Flow and a tub of Teflon Grease (Doesn't need to be that big). Use the teflon in: Bottom Bracket Threads, Headset and a little in the seatpost. These will help prevent those parts from seizing over time.

Use the Tri-Flow in all the pivots, sealed bearings and other moving parts. On the bearings, dribble a bit on the plastic seal and then spin it... you will feel a difference immediately.

I don't know if you've bought this too, but invest in some new cable and housing while you're at it. Make sure to replace both at the same time, since new cables will be ruined by worn housing and vice versa. These should be replaced every year or so anyway and since it's going to be completely apart, you might as well.

Hope this helps and feel free to message me if you have questions or run into trouble... I do this a lot.

the WD 40 is to clean it out and flush out old dirt and grease. it needs to be cleaned out and then fresh lube added. I like prolink better.
https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Products-ProGold-ProLink-Chain/dp/B000VT2HKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499889515&sr=8-1&keywords=prolink+chain+lube

WD 40 just cleans and is NOT a good lube. its sticky and attracts dirt and dust and gums up like crazy.

Prolink cleans out the crap and is a very good lube afterwards.

I haven't worked with MOD switches personally, but I've experimented with lube on Zealios, which I think are pretty similar.

Best results were with the Techkeys GH v4 lube and Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube. I ended up going with the latter on my Zealios, which I think already come with a tiny droplet of Krytox on them---I basically just doused the stems, touched the spring ends, and reassembled the switch after everything dried. The result was a slightly quieter, more refined switch.

The GH v4 is also really good stuff, but I would advise only using a very thin layer, brushed only on the stem. Too much of that stuff can result in mushy key feel.

You can clean up the spoke rust with some steel wool or tinfoil. They'll look nicer at least :)

I rub anything that's prone to rusting (like my cheap spokes!) with an oily shop rag after cleaning the bike. Boeshield is a great anti-corrosion product that also happens to be a good bike chain lube. Drip type > aerosol

I presoak gently with a water hose (basically sprinkle and get all the loose dirt off). I then spray diluted simple green on the chain and cassette. I let that sit while I whip up a bucket of simple green with my bike brushes ( http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Pro-Brush-Kit/dp/B002PPMR54 ).

I then rinse the drive train off and use the cassette tool to scrub the chain and cassette. I scrub the chain while it’s on the chain ring to help keep it in one place and get 3 sides of it really good. Then you can get the inside of the chain while it is between the cassette and crank. Then move to the chain rings and derailleurs. Once those are clean the rest just needs a basic brushing.

I usually also take care to get the brake calipers brushed out and the rim since you will get a lot of dust and dirt in there. Then rinse the bike down. You can then wipe the bike with a towel and bounce gentle on the wheels to get the excess water off. Oil your chain links, derailleurs and if needed the pedals. I use Triflow because of the awesome banana smell. http://www.amazon.com/Flow-Teflon-Bicycle-Lube-2oz/dp/B0002ITTK2

DO NOT spray high pressure water in the bottom bracket or anywhere else that you could possibly rinse out grease from. Substituting water for grease isn't a good idea.

Hey sorry for the very late reply /u/gbchk! I have been really busy with a lot of stuff these last 2 weeks, and hence haven't gotten the chance to properly reply to you.

With regards to a good dry lube, I mentioned in my build log that a Dry PTFE lube should be good for the ALPS switch. I personally used the WD-40 PTFE lube, though any other Dry PTFE lube should work as well. As you can see from the build log, I referenced a [youtube comment] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msOYzgb1IT4) that mentioned another dry lube that you might be able to try, the Finish Line dry film PTFE lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Also, I have updated my main comment with the link to the album which showcases how I lubed my ALPS. Hopefully this will serve you well as a guide.

Sorry again for the late reply, and have fun with whatever project you may have now!

> Any recommendations for lube though?

TriFlow is a good general purpose lube for parts of the bike that should be slidey. It's ok on the chain, but a purpose-made chain lube is better.

As for chain lube, there's a lot of choices. However, there are two basic categories ... wet lube and dry lube. Wet lube will stand up to wet, grimey conditions, but will be more prone to "gunk build up" in dryer conditions. Dry lube is "cleaner", and less stuff will stick to it, but it won't hold up well in the wet.

Decide what's right for your category of riding, and see what the LBS carries and/or recommends. I ride a road bike and personally use Boeshield T-9 for summer conditions. I like ProGold Xtreme for wet-weather / winter riding.

Whichever you choose, get in the habit of at least wiping down the chain and re-applying lube often, and doing a deep clean with degreaser and re-lube a little less regularly.

This is a tough bike. I have one that's about forty years old. It doesn't take much care.

Besides tires and tubes, you also need new brake pads. Cheap but very important.

In order of increasing cost/benefit:

Clean the drive train (all the gears and the chain) with rags and a degreaser. Old toothbrushes and dish brushes can help with this. You want to remove all the black, caked grease and clean the components to the bare metal. Once they are clean, let them dry and lubricate them.

Have a LBS replace the brake and shifter cables and housings. You probably have the original ones. Replacing these greatly reduces the risk of snapping a cable or two on the road, something that can render the bike unrideable. It will also make shifting and braking much smoother.

If your LBS tells you your chain is worn out, they are probably right. This is also a cheap fix. It will make shifting smoother and protect your drive train from excessive wear. It also lowers the risk of a broken chain on the road, which again makes the bike unrideable.

Enjoy!

Yup, that definitely sounds like a very thorough drivetrain cleaning procedure!

My personal favourite lube for dry conditions is a wax-based lube called Squirt, but everyone will have their own personal favourite, and you may have to experiment a bit to find out what works best for you. :)

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

Go to Target then to the automotive section. Buy some brushes, shammies, and cleaning products. I like Armorall. Bike specific cleaning products are ridiculously overpriced.

Take your bike out in the yard and gently spray it with water. It might be tempting to really hose it down, but that'll just force dirt in places you don't want it. Then with a bucket of soapy water give it a good scrubbing. You might want two brushes, one for your bike and one for the drivetrain. Rinse and repeat until your bike is sparkling.

Finally dry off your bike with a shammy. Again you'll probably want a separate shammy for your drivetrain.

Finally lube your bike. That means put a drop on your chainlinks, inside your shifters, on your derailleurs, pretty much on any moving part.

I like the dry lube, but if you're riding in wet conditions wet lube is fine. Your LBS should carry both kinds.

This is by far the best product for bikes though:

http://www.amazon.com/Gold-Products-ProGold-ProLink-Chain/dp/B000VT2HKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376673578&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+lube

Not an affiliate link, just a friendly neighborhood bitcoin biker.

First wipe the chain with a paper towel (turn pedal backwards, find that spot of the chain you can "grab"), then apply this lube drop by drop. Then wipe it down with a paper towel again until the towel is coming back looking about 1/4 as black as in the beginning. It doesn't take as much as you might think!

Good luck out there.

Chain Life is my favorite chain lube. Super tenacious, lasts long enough, doesn't smell funny, wipes away easily. Comes out as a foam so it's a little too easy to overapply. Amazon is the only place I've found it without having to buy a case.

• For cleaning: DuPont Motorcycle Degreaser
  
  I used to always buy those until every can at Walmart started leaking directly from where the nozzle attaches instead of spraying out through the straw, so I stopped buying it. People in the comments also say the formula isn't as good as it used to be. Since then I've been using WD40 as a degreaser which works fine, but kerosene can be used as well.
  
  
• To make your life easier: Grunge Brush
  
  You're going to save yourself a ton of time with one of these. Get one. Spray, brush, wipe with rag, repeat until clean.
  
  
• For the end: DuPont Chain Saver
  
  I've been using this every time and it is great. Most people will recommend it. Make sure you get it on the inside of the chain as well as the orings. Gently wipe off the excess so it doesn't fling all over your bike.
  
  That chain of yours looks like death and has probably never been cleaned before. Get as much crap off of it as you can, then see if there's any significant rust or oring damage. If the chain is that bad, I can only imagine the chain slack is terrible. The owner probably also neglected to do simple things such as the brake fluid or coolant, maybe even tire pressure.
  
  Edit: Clean the sprockets while you're at it.

Then you'll lose the lubricant again, unfortunately :) There are dry lubricants that can help, while avoiding attracting dust/grit.

There is a bike lube that I like for stuff like this, Finish Line Dry Lubricant. It goes on as a clear liquid, and dries dry, which is really nice. It's handy for a range of things around the house, it doesn't leave a mess like oil, and it doesn't attract grit.

This is the liquid version, there is also an aerosol can type:
Finish Line Dry Bicycle Chain Lube with Teflon - 4oz Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vivxDbKQY3FYN

FWIW, I'm in the Pacific Northwest and commute all year.

I've been using this gear with great success and good relative comfort:

http://amzn.com/B00DQZ0S3K

https://www.showerspass.com/products/club-shoe-covers

http://www.columbia.com/mens-evapouration-jacket-RM2023.html

http://amzn.com/B00435IPFK

http://amzn.com/B008KUXRAW

Wear your helmet over your hood, and a pair of regular safety glasses. When it is really cold I add a balaclava and a fleece jacket. Fenders are a must to keep the dirt down, and I use this lube in the winter:

http://amzn.com/B000WYCD5O

I have an old pair of windproof campmor gloves that are no longer made. If you get cold just pedal harder. It almost never happens, I'm usually too hot.

Your bike depends on your distance, speed and budget. Make sure you get disc brakes, mandatory in my opinion for the higher speeds. This is my ride: http://i.imgur.com/bXXJkjS.jpg, just passed 1400 miles. It is BBS02 on a Kona Dew, I've since switched to Schwalbe Marathon tires. Cost about $1100 and has already paid for itself in gas and parking. 35mph for ~10 miles, 25 mph for 30-40 miles.

Oh, and fuck the snow and ice. Those are the days I drive or work from home.

You should lube the cables. Ask a local bike shop what they recommend. I used "Tri-Flow" which you can pick up at a bicycle shop. They don't advertise it for motorcycles but it does a great job.
http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF21010-Superior-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B0002ITTK2

Also check the path of the clutch cable, make sure that it has a smooth path without any kinks.

T9 is pretty great for the bi-weekly rub-down. In between I'd recommend Rock-n-Roll Extreme

Get the lint and old thread out of everywhere you can. Oil it. Hopefully the timing and tension are in good shape and you can have lots of happy sewing.

Highly recommend TriFlow instead of typical singer sewing machine oil -- it's made a noticeable difference in the smoothness and quietness in my older machines.

This is the lube that I bought. There's actually some shots of me opening the Alps switches in the build log, but as far as advice goes, they're not too tricky.

Much easier to do if they're not already soldered into something, but Chyro's guide is pretty much what I went with. Just slide a toothpick into the top and bottom clip of the switch, then pull the switch top off with the slider. Reassembling them is a bit tricky, because it's hard to get the spring to stay in the center. A little bit of practice and it seems okay. You'll know if the spring is messed up because it'll feel off or click a little (assuming it wasn't already a clicky switch, heh). That happened to me a few times - I just popped it back open and readjusted it.

Oh wow finally a problem that I spent a while trying to figure out how to solve

DON'T use WD-40, by definition it's not a lubricant (it's a displacement fluid!) and will only smell and gum up all of the contact points. I found this out the hard way.
What you should use is any sort of dry bicycle chain lubricant which won't leave a residue or smell after 15 minutes of drying and should get rid of any creaking noises for about a year. Something like this.

Take your lubricant and firstly apply it to all the areas in the corners (where the posts are) where metal touches metal - basically any contact points where the mattress frame connects to the post, and especially around those circular rivet thingies that hold the assembly together. If the creaking doesn't stop after those areas are lubricated, you can move on to applying a small amount of lubricant to each of the metal 'hooks' on the frame, both where they attach to each other throughout the center area of the frame and more critically, where they hook onto the mattress frame itself (I think most of my creaks happened here and at the posts). Use the smallest amount of lubricant possible at each joint so you don't waste any and it doesn't spill everywhere.

Good luck!

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

Nah, it was quite the opposite. I previously used some of the spray on lube, Tri-Flow, too much of it, and it attracted a bunch of grit that required a good degreasing to get rid of. I found it difficult to put the appropriate amount of lube on the chain with the aerosol spray can. After this eventful ride I used Brake Parts Cleaner to degrease the chain and components and the soapy water and a host to get the excess out. Once it was clean and dry I used Finish Line bike lube as directed and it's much better now.

The two oils I use for that stuff are either Phil wood tenacious oil or tri flow. You can also use tri flow as a so-so chain lube but the Phil wood stuff will objectively be better. Since it's a bmx bike, I'd go tri flow, you don't need fancy shit. Carefully(!!!!!!!!!!) pop off the plastic seal with a razor blade or exacto knife, then apply a liberal amount of oil into the bearing. Pop the seal back on, then let the bearing sit on both sides for like 5 - 10 minutes so excess can drain a little. Wipe the bearing dry of any excess on the outside to deter collection of crap on the bearing then reinstall with small(!!) amounts of grease on the outside where the bearing presses into the hub. You can do this for any sealed cartridge bearing on your bike.

I was thinking your freewheel (the mechanism that lets the rear cogs spin) might well be stiff too and could explain some of the chain sagging, that would also be a case of adding lubrication and working it free. I'd invest in a bottle of bike/chain lube like this if you haven't got anything like that

Welcome to /r/mechanicalkeyboards/ limmy!

I'll edit out the Limmy snark! Thanks for the correction.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/?tag=hyprod-20&hvadid=15468055299&hvpos=1o3&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=159926366464748378&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&ref=asc_df_B002IDZXRM

Just did some lubing on some ambers earlier this week and I used Dupont dry lube with teflon and just used it on the sliders and the housings with a small paint brush and it was set. The switches felt great for me and are very highly recommended if you fork over the money.

They often start to rattle with age too, especially in the cold. Some people have recommended lubing them this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Dri-Slide-4oz-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B001F2Y25G to help, probably a good idea for longevity too.

Have you thought about Carbon Assembly Paste? it's pretty much grease with a fine grit that aids in creating more friction/grip when you clamp things.

http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Assembly-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0012RIEM6

areas of concern:

• tires, especially older tires with gum-colored sidewalls, tend to dry rot to the point of needing replacement
  
  
  
• rubber brake pads will release their plasticizers with age and begin to dry, crack, harden, and sometimes glaze, requiring replacement
  
  
  
• cables may be corroded inside the housing, making it difficult to shift/brake properly (this stuff is amazing, many graphite-based lubricants are suitable substitues, the idea is to free up crusty or rusted cables with something that won't gum up over time)
  
  
  the chain may still be good to go. i argue with coworkers who insist that any visible rust means the chain has to be replaced. my philosophy is as long as stiff links can be worked out and you're dealing with a reasonable amount of surface rust, corrosion isn't a big deal.

That's big.. maybe you should look for it in a super-market, this kind of stores where you can buy a lot of dif. trash for some cents (paid 1€, for a 50x40, had one in white 1st but it was too shiny for my mouse)..or on the internet, but this way u can't test it..Perhaps you should look for a Desk Pad they are really huge and cheap. Also I can recomand Teflon-Spray it makes everything slippy ;-)

This plus this. After every ride I wipe the chain down with a dry microfiber rags. Nothing on the outside of the chain needs to be there. Twice a week (about 12 hours of riding) I apply some of the T-9, let it sit, and wipe clean. Also wipe off the jockey wheels. In my opinion, the key to a clean drive train is lubing after rides and letting it dry (after wiping excess off), not right before you go out.

^I ^love ^a ^silent ^ride.

So I use my road bike as my means of transportation, I recently bought new tires and forgot to buy new tubes, the bike is a 74 schwinn le tour and the tires are 27 1/4. I was wondering what size tubing to use, also if I was looking to buy chain lubricant do you think this is ok? Thanks for any suggestions/help!

First. READ UP ON HYDRAULIC BRAKES BEFORE YOU START. DO NOT ALLOW THE LEVERS TO COMPRESS W/O A ROTOR OR BLEED BLOCK BETWEEN THE PADS OR YOU'LL HYPEREXTEND THE PISTONS. OTHERWISE:

You're lucky. If your bike has hydraulic brakes there is probably very little on your bike you can't disassemble with a set of hex keys from 2.5-10mm, possibly a T-25 torx, and a #1 Phillips screwdriver. Depending on your wheels you'll need cone wrenches to set the bearings and depending on your crankset and bottom bracket you MAY need specialty tools. To work on your cassette (I'm ASSUMING CASSETTE DUE TO HYDRAULIC BRAKES) you'll need a cassette lockring tool AND a chainwhip (or other method to hold onto the cassette).

Let's see some specs or photos.



When it comes to assembly, though, especially for the stem and saddle, torque matters.

$7 Park Polylube or $10 Phil's waterproof grease or Marine grease

and

$6 TriFlow or $8 Finish Line Dry

and

$8 lifetime supple of anti-sieze for all metal-to-metal (including threads) which does not move or get frequently disassembled

and



$16 at Sears, $10 at Harbor Freight socket-drive Allen set

0-9 nM torque wrench for $22. A VERY useful range extension over the 0-7 of the Park Tool TW-1. And do not be afraid of cheap beam wrenches! Be afraid of expensive clickers but not cheap beam!

$2 T-25 socket drive (brake rotors)

$15 chain tool

$7 cassette lockring tool

$7 shitty chainwhip (you need something to hold cassette to use cassette lockring tool)

I strongly suggest the above torque wrench (or its equivalent) for all small bolts on a bike. If you want to be safe with the big bolts (mostly on the bottom bracket and crankset depending on styles) you also need:

$25 at Sears, $15-20 at Harbor Freight or auto parts stores high-torque torque wrench (Much less often needed)

EDIT: Spelling fixes and some minor rewording.

That's actually easy to get, i mean the stuff like this.

Sorry to hear about you getting hurt.

I'm not familiar with the assembly paste Shimano ships with their carbon fiber parts, but here's what I use: Finish Line Fiber Grip

With barely any torque it locks my bars in place better than full torque spec did without it, and it gets a lot better with additional torque. I also carry this tiny torque wrench on longer rides so I have no excuse for my bars coming loose.

12" pin to pin and you're set. Just throw on some chain lube. That stuff is good all around the house as well.

Hi I've been using a chain cleaner I got off amazon with some citrus degreaser and then apply Finish Line dry/wet lube.

Would really like to get one of those nice bike stands like park tool but don't have the money, I just bought one of those bike hooks at the dollar store that goes on the wall of my shed.

I've tried several different lubes on both my road and mtb. My current favorite is ProGold
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VT2HKQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A7V2CLTRGDT7X&psc=1
I also use FinishLine Wet if I know the trails will be wet. I went away from Wax based as it seems to mix poorly with dirt. My favorite wax based was White Lightning product.

Yes. I ordered the Tri-flow, but there are others as well.

> triflow

Just found out about it thanks to this thread, I will give it a try. I see they have many different types, is this the one you guys are using? Has anyone tried their grease for bike ball bearings?

Not grease, lube.

Grease is for bearings.

Triflow is one of the most popular lubricants. Wipe off any loose crud with rag. Over apply, allow to sit, wipe off excess. Do it once a month or so.

I use my local bike shop. Make sure you lube your chain with something like this weekly or so (I use dry lube)

Wipe down your bike when it gets dirty. Just general stuff. Here's a good checklist of daily, weekly, monthly and yearly checklist of things to do!

noob here, so I can use wd-40 to clean the chain, then dry it with my air compressor then lube it up with this stuff?

Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oss_product

Buy this grease:

White lightning grease

Buy this general lubricant:

Triflow

Buy this multi-tool:

Alien II It includes all common allen and wrench sizes, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.

Buy this socket set:

Ice tools 8 x 9 x 10

Get this adjustable wrench:

Wrench

Buy these tire levers:

Park tool levers

With all of that you should have more than enough to do basic maintenance with under $80 worth of tools.

As you get more skilled, you'll need some specialized tools for the bottom brackets, headsets, and cones on your wheels but those will vary by type/bike, and in time you will own multiple bikes so buy the tools when you when you need them.

side-note: WD-40 is not a lubricant; it's a solvent (50% mineral spirits). Look into buying proper lube. I prefer GT-85, but there are many options out there.

WD-40 does indeed make bike-specific products, but I haven't tried them, so I can't attest to their worth. Link

Well definitely get this as you'll never regret having a nice set of hex keys and every fixed gear owner needs a Lockring Tool.

Grease and chain oil are also missing from that set and mission critical if you don't already have them.

For the crankset that kit should have you covered

So I currently have some of this oil. Will that be okay to coat it with?

I've heard that this dry teflon lubricant is supposed to work well.
Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube, 4-Ounce Drip Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/

GT85 is your friend. Displaces water and lubricates too.

Failing that sealed bearings should help, but will still need greasing and lubricating.

Techkeys just restocked the thick lube. I just used this stuff to do a bunch of MX Clears. It made them buttery smooth without losing any of the bump.

Also you can get a "fibre grip" paste to help stop carbon parts slipping. I use it for my lockon grips on my carbon bars.

I had the same problem until someone told me to use the "dry" oil lubricant and not the "wet" oil lubricant. The "wet" stuff is very sticky (any dirt will stick to it) and I was told is better for mountain bikes that you need to keep working even when covered in mud and gunk. The "dry" stuff is less sticky, less viscous and better suited to road bikes. My chain and cassette is always shiny now.

You'll need more torque than necessary to prevent slipping. Use a carbon paste instead.

No. WD-40 is a water displacer, not a lubricant. It will actually strip away the oil from your bike parts and leave them rubbing metal-on-metal. Get some real bike lube like T-9.

I suggest using some Teflon Dry Lube. /s

While you have the cable off, squirt some of this into the housing:

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Aid-Dri-Slide-4oz-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B001F2Y25G/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=motorcycle+cable+lube&qid=1565823340&s=gateway&sprefix=motorcycle+cable+lube&sr=8-8#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

You don't need much; I've had the same bottle for 5+ years and it's really helped me get a lot of life out of my cables.

Just regular Finish Line dry lube.

this stuff is way better

I've heard of getting the bi-metal cleats from peloton (chat) to using a dry teflon lube very sparingly on the cleats (like apply it with a q-tip) - https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Chain-Teflon/dp/B002IDZXRM/

Dry: graphite powder

Wet: TriFlow

WD-40 BIKE Wet Chain Lubricant - Wax-Free Bicycle Chain Lube for Wet Conditions. 4 oz. (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2307ES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jLlGzbYB8GW5F

All of that will likely make it more slippery. Just use friction paste!

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Assembly-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0012RIEM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502601421&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+fiber+grip

I use this on all compression joint faces: seat tube, saddle rails, stem/steerer/bars, and not just on carbon.

THIS! Don't overtighten it. Get some of this gel/paste stuff before you crack your seatpost (like I did). https://smile.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Assembly-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0012RIEM6/

For clutch and throttle cables I've always used Dry-Slide, it's a moly-disulfide based lube in an oil carrier, eventually any oil dries, but the moly stays and keeps doing it's job and it doesn't attract dirt or grit, plus the applicator is small enough to get into the cable housing to put it in there and not drip all over the place.
http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Dri-Slide-4oz-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B001F2Y25G

I wanted to also mention that it may be the shifters themselves, depending on age and storage conditions. I see a lot of shifters with dried up grease that freezes the small moving parts in them, but that usually takes years of non-use.

If you just need to lube your cables and derailleur pivots, use Dri-Slide. Apply it sparingly, wipe off the excess, and do not get any in your eyes.

https://www.amazon.com/Squirt-Lasting-Dry-Lube-bottle/dp/B00ANNR15G I use Squirt, it works really well and lasts a long time. I'm on my second bottle in about a year and a half. One drop per link, rotate and wipe off excess.

Applying lube to that rusty chain will not really help. Get a new chain (7 speed I'm guessing) https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Silver-Gray/dp/B003AFOV84 it's only $11, and keep it lubed every 100 miles or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-liquid/dp/B000GE1F9K/ to hinges/metal parts. There's a screw on the inside of the handle for the handle cover and the cover pops right off.

nope gt85 m8 not wd, you can cover a mainboard in that shit and power it up and it still works :) great for getting dust out of fans too, but don't use wd lol serioulsy gt85 all day

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GT85-Spray-Lube-PTFE-400/dp/B000OYFSIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479849389&sr=8-1&keywords=gt+85+bike+lubricant

WD-40 is a little bit of lubricant in a lot of solvent. It's primarily solvent.

As others said, it's fine for metal-on metal contact for pieces that move relatively infrequently, but for something like a bike chain where all of the parts are in constant motion you need a thicker lube.

That being said, bike lubes are not any more expensive than WD-40 unless you get into some really esoteric stuff. Tri-flow isn't my favorite lube, but it works just fine and doesn't exactly cost a lot. Spending $6 on something that's going to last you a couple of years is no financial burden for anyone.

What is your preferred chain lube? I’ve always used Finish Line Dry Lube but lately I’m finding the muck and grease build-up frustrating to maintain on two bikes.

I ride mostly in dry weather and always on sealed roads although I will come across some road dust from time to time.

Should I change lube or switch to a wax coated chain?

Is it o-ring? If so then you should only check the tension make sure it's not too loose. I made a couple 2500 miles trips and on the second with a new chain I didn't clean, lube or tension until I got home. It was getting a bit loose but not too much.

With an older chain I keep an eye on it: wipe it down at gas stations and I carry bicycle chain lube like the tri-flow if the rollers start making this chirpy noise. Takes about 2 minutes when filling up, assuming you have a centerstand.

If you do need to adjust tension on a trip, always err on the loose side. As you sit on the bike most swingarms take the rear axle further away from the pivot making the chain tighter as the seat goes down.