#40 in Hand tools
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Reddit mentions of Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity
Sentiment score: 13
Reddit mentions: 27
We found 27 Reddit mentions of Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity. Here are the top ones.
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Specs:
JIS Screwdrivers - Regular Phillips don't fit bicycles well. Park is ironically one of the worst offenders.
Use these to cut zip ties. Alternatively, cut the zip tie with regular side cuts and then burn the remaining bit to "mushroom" the cut portion, making it less likely to pull out.
If you're wrapping handlebars and get pulled away, grab some Park pin spanners and slide it over the section you're leaving to keep it from unraveling.
Presta nuts are spacers. Use them to push the water bottle cage away from band-clamp front derailleurs, or in between a frame and a set of fenders to create smoother lines.
"Bike wash" is a scam. Put a few drops of Dawn (or any dish soap) into a spray bottle. Works better than anything costing more than $.00004 an bottle. Simple Green isn't safe for aluminum and is generally less effective at removing grease than Dawn (this has been tested and proven by Consumer Reports).
If you're installing new road levers, take the handlebar off and put them flat on a bench or table. Find the angle you want and tighten both levers down before you install them, and they will be perfectly even.
Boeshield T9 is a better frame protectant than Frame Saver, and it's much cheaper. You can also use it for chains (it sucks in the rain, though) and anything else at home you need moving.
Pedals with hash marks are always left side pedals.
Shimano's next-generation slick cables dramatically improve the performance of 7900/6700/5700 generation shifting. It can be a hard sell to convince a customer to buy $50 cables and housing, but if they have persistent shifting woes, this is the trick.
Speaking of cables, if you need a Campy cable in a pinch (and don't stock them), use a file or bench grinder to reduce the head of a regular Shimano or SRAM shift cable. Test before you install, of course, but this method works just fine.
Lube the bottom bracket cable guide. Shimano SP41 grease is perfect for this, but even a bit of Tri-Flow can make a big difference.
Sharpen a spoke on the bench grinder to make your own picks. You're going to be ruining them all the time no matter what, so they might as well be free.
I've got a lot more, but I need to make breakfast and study, now.
My absolute favorite vape related thing that I use daily.
Let me let you in on a little secret: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ODDPNO?keywords=hakko%20flush%20cutters&qid=1449088184&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
The HF are good for the money, no doubt, but the Hakko are better.
> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.
I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)
Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.
Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)
Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.
No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA
Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.
The first was when I got it
The second was when I added the glass build plate
The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.
That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)
The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.
single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.
My Thingiverse for example prints
Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:
Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::
Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes
Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.
Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.
TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.
Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
I use these. They're cheap, cut really well, and are just small enough to fit between my coil and the post. They're one of the best investments I've ever made in terms of RDA tools
Hey, would you mind taking a look at my Audi? The sunroof won't open.... Kidding, of course.
For future use, and for all the techs out there, this is the ideal tool to cut and trim zip ties. They'll never have that irritating little sharp tang again, and you wont accidentally slice the wire you're working on:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO
Here is a good link that really explains everything well.
http://www.ecigclick.co.uk/ultimate-rda-guide-for-beginners/
Some pointers, get a building kit, they are life savers, I would however recommend a different pair of wire cutters, this is the pair I use, and they are phenominal:
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463530354&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cutter
I use Koh Gen Do cotton, they spelled it wrong, but it's my go to. I just like it. Hope this helps
With SS316 wire, you can run it in power (wattage) or TC mode, whichever you prefer. With Kathal wire, only power mode. I mostly stick with power mode. TC mode is fiddly, even with a DNA mod, especially with clapton coils.
The 50mm x 60mm organic Japanese cotton pads are very popular among builders. "Puff" is one of those brands you can get on Amazon.
An RDTA is essentially an RDA sitting over a tank. Since neither has a chimney, you can get great flavor from each, depending on the particular unit.
Dual coils will produce a more intensive vape but can also be twice the work, use twice the cotton, twice the wire, twice the juice, and make your RDA twice as hot. That last one is real important to me. I only use one fused clapton in my Goon to keep it from getting too hot. Not all RDAs support single coil mode, however. You typically want to shut off the airflow on the empty side so as not to dilute the flavor.
Coils are ambidextrous, they don't care which end is negative or positive.
You'll save a lot of money buying spools of wire. A good flush cut wire cutter is essential.
Checklist:
Coupon code for Lightning Vapes: ohmsweetohm (17% off)
http://www.lightningvapes.com/collections/kanthal/products/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire?variant=993078056
http://www.lightningvapes.com/products/ceramic-heat-resistant-tweezers-pointed-tip?variant=740212113
http://sweet-vapes.com/coil-master-v3.html
http://www.amazon.com/Koh-Gen-Do-Organic-Cotton/dp/B00NU3H3KE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852567&sr=8-2&keywords=koh+gen+do
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852717&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cutters
http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Inch-Micro-Tip-Scissors-94817897J/dp/B00006IFNA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852757&sr=8-6&keywords=fiskar+scissors
You should buy an ohm meter if you have a regulated mod. Also, you can use the steam-engine website to calculate your ohms and your mod will be able to read it out for you. But an ohm meter is just for safety precautions.
Personally, I like storing all my gear in a bin so I bought this
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-STST14027-SortMaster-Tool-Organizer/dp/B00O7R6RS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453852881&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+storage+boxes
You could also use needle nose pliers to help you with your leads when trying to get them in your post holes.
PSA: Buy the protective tube with your ceramic tweezers. It will shatter your heart to see the tips break if the tweezers are dropped.
You could just buy the coil master kit but I'm not a very big fan of it because you can only store what comes with the kit (no room to expand your tool selection)
I've been using a small Hakko wire cutter. If you gently cut into the plastic housing it breaks apart and the metal pins just fall right out.
Hm, I suspect you might have damaged one of the pads by using those cutters (if you did use them). Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017ODDPNO would be much better.
Great job finding the broken link though!
I just watched this youtube [video] (https://youtu.be/Ck9dfeoKwhs?t=1097) and it doesn't look all that complicated since there is no need to do it perfectly, you can just cut them on the go using something like this also you gonna need a rubber mallet and double check you order the molding with the proper width.
HOLY SHIT!!!! TRIM YOUR ZIP-TIES!!!
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/
EDIT: I have to agree with everyone else. Whoever made the splice tray did a great job, they just need to "finish" it.
No problem; also a pair of tweezers (ones that don't cut and have blunt ends) helps with applying stickers.
These are the side cutters I bought if you're buying from Amazon
Not sure if you already have these clippers yet but I find them pretty convenient when trimming leads.
With decks like that I generally like to use the positive that's furthest away from the negative per coil, I find it easier to keep the coil centered and accessible for trimming. Usually I'd make my adjustments after everything is trimmed.
I'm not telling you to buy anything different but a velocity style deck is really easy to build on for someone new and keep things as even as possible.
HEY THANKS! When I was new to the game I didn't know how to tell what props go on which motor, and when i threw them into my bag I wanted to be able to know what i'm pulling out. SO I wrote the motor numbers under the props (see this pic for motor numbers. I no longer do this, I started flying with some guys who showed me a "trick", if you will. With the kwad facing forward from you, putting on props the pitch will always face UP when parallel front and back... errr wow that's hard to explain in words. If you don't know what i'm talking about let me know I can post a pic, lol.
As far as what's in my "tool stand", lol. I have Hex Drivers, X-Acto knife, multibit screw driver, flashlight, sharpie, wire snips, and small pair of plyers. tagging /u/medium2slow.
I would recommend buying the Adafruit 200mAh battery, just to avoid Chinese knockoffs.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Packs-Lithium-3-7v-2000mAh/dp/B0137ITW46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485110664&sr=8-1&keywords=2000mah+battery
There's a video you can Google pretty easily for replacing the battery. I'd recommend having a small screwdriver set and also angle cutters of some sort, something like https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485110742&sr=8-1&keywords=angle+cutter though it isn't really necessary, just makes it easier than using needle nose pliers and it is cleaner.
Would this cable cutter suffice to cut custom length patch cables?
I make my own beaded bracelets, basically you just need a crimp plier and a [wire cutter] (http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1453178055&sr=1-1&keywords=wire+cutter). After that you choose your beads, wire, and clamp. The obvious benefit is you will always have bracelets that fit you exactly the way you want, and you choose your beads. And they will always be cheaper than store-bought bracelets. Same goes for leather bracelets.
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499887364&sr=8-3&keywords=flush+cut+pliers
And these: https://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Double-Sided/dp/B000SVRSRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499887406&sr=8-2&keywords=wax+carving
I can work with that. Buy a tobecco velocity clone and a geek vape tsunami. You will also need drill bits in various sizes, or a coil jig to wrap the coils. A set of precision screwdrivers is also helpful. Get a roll of 24 and 26 gauge A1 kanthal. Plus this, this and tweezers or needle nose pliers to work the coils.
Buy pass through connectors like these. - EDIT: Good up to Cat5e.
Edit
Here is a youtube video about the same type of connector. Your existing crimper should work, but you will have the extra wire to cut off. Just get a cheap pair of edge cutters.
/Edit
Use a cable tester.
You Tube videos will also help.
This is a PITA exercise. You will get better at it.
Oh, get a cable tester. $9.
Did I mention a tester?
Did I mention do not use a cable tester if the cable is hooked up to anything? Only use a tester to test Both ends of the cable at the same time.
These are what I use - small flush cutters, sharp as hell, with tiny blades that are easy to work into tightly zipped bundles.
For sure get these wire cutters. I bought a couple other ones before from B&M stores and they ended up breaking on lower gauge wire. Complete crap.
These are on amazon for $5 and if you have prime free 2 day shipping. Been using over a year no problems at all.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO
These ceramic tweezers are nice and cheap too.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Ceramic-Tweezers/
These are nice for cutting cotton.
https://www.amazon.com/Thread-Tailor-Spring-Scissors-Stitch/dp/B00M6JK3T6/
Best thing you can do is just build up a kit separately. Purchasing the preassembled kits are usually over priced and junk.
flush cuts? just cheap little nippers for cutting off the ends of zip ties but if you don't hold it flush it leaves sharp lil points on all those zip ties. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466608831&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cuts
Check out some of these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=build+your+first+coil
I order my wire on Amazon, and its like $8 for 100ft of your choice in gauges, $12 or so for a bag of Japanese Organic Cotton, maybe another $15-$20 for wire cutters/tweezers, and $18 for a Coil Master jig if you want to use them. Oh, and don't forget anything your atty might need like a Phillips screwdriver (though even though they're crappy, pretty much every atty comes with a tool for it). All in all you're probably looking at around $40 up front, but you'll have about a years supply of cotton at least, and even rebuilding a lot to test things enough wire to last a couple months or so.
Here's some of the stuff you'll want to look for (don't have to use these ones specifically of course):
https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Kanthal-Resistance-Gauge-Lengths/dp/B00MW4O0WG/
https://www.amazon.com/Koh-Gen-Do-Organic-Cotton/dp/B00NU3H3KE/
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO
https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-InnoVaper-Precision-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00TI6M3WK
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV
Doubtful, but it can't hurt to shoot them an email.
You can get a decent pair for $5 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO/