Reddit mentions of Kool Stop MTN Mountain Bicycle Brake Pads (Cantilever, Dual Compound)

>Crankset

If the bike is badly messed up you probably want a bottom bracket rather, or at least in addition to, the crankset.

The bottom bracket is were the bearings are. The crank is just the lever. If the crank isn't stripped out or cracked you can probably just re-use it and put new pedals on it as well as new crank gears. Although it may just be cheaper to buy the entire crankset.

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>Front Derailleur
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>3 Speed Shift

I recommend converting from a 3-speed to a 2-speed though.

A 2-by setup is MUCH MUCH simpler. The reason being is that getting the chain to perfectly line up on all 3 gears and getting the indexed shifting (clicky shifter) working perfectly is a real huge pain in the ass. Also if the bike gets even a little bit knocked around and/or the shifter cable stretches a fraction of a mm (which there is probably going to be some movement somewhere) then it'll throw everything off again. Conversely with a 2 speed you can use a simple friction shifter and don't have to worry about any adjustments except the travel limiter screws built into the front derailleur.

Rear derailleurs are easy to setup provided nothing is bent. But a front derailleur is finicky as hell.

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Unless the front derailleur is completely destroyed I would try to clean it up and save it. Fitting a new front derailleur can be challenging as there are no real standards. Rears are standardized so it's rarely a issue.

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>Cassette Tool

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You probably want this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=freewheel+removal+tool&ref=nb_sb_noss

see:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/determining-cassette-freewheel-type

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All cheaper hub motor kits use freewheels.

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>Motor Kit -

These types of motor kits are fine.

Be aware of the downsides though: They are cheap and use wonky as hell parts. The wheel builds are terrible, rims are weak, you WILL have to stay on top of spoke tension... they WILL loosen on their own and WILL break if they become too lose. Stay on top of that and you avoid 90% of the problems people have and the wheel should last a long time. The connections are odd and cheap, the wiring isn't very good, and the throttle will wear out fairly quickly and need to be replaced.

Think of them as a 'starter kit'. As you use the bike you probably will want to upgrade them and that is very good way to get started in the hobby of building ebikes. It is totally recommended for hobbyists. This way you can learn as you go. The motor will last a very long time and is a good basis for starting out.

People have put 10,000+ miles on these cheap kits and they will work, except for the problems I mentioned previously. Over time you can upgrade individual parts into something very nice. However if you are looking for something that will work 100% reliably for years out of the box.. then you will want to spend more money. I recommend Grin for commuter car-replacement setups.

Since you are fixing up a old bike you are interested in the hobby side of things so this is probably a good start.

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>Battery

This battery is too small. These 1000w kits require a pretty powerful battery to keep up with them. The seller is not giving you enough technical information and I think they are being dishonest about the max ratings.

The battery is the actual heart of the bike. It's more important then the motor. It's not where you want to save money on. Between a cheap motor and good battery or cheap battery and good motor... I would choose good battery 150% of the time.

Since they are not really something you can upgrade it's worth buying quality from the start.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/US-stock-Hailong-shark-battery-Electric-bicycle-Battery-48V-17Ah-16ah-ebike-lithium-battery-for-750W/1178407_32966636638.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148357.5.181d1b6483Th5b

That's about as cheapest as I would go.

Unit Pack Power a lower-end manufacturer with good reputation. It is, still, however a low-end battery built to a price point and it's shipped from the USA. You will want to pay attention to the cables and connections to make sure they don't get too hot. They kinda skimp on the wiring sometimes. But it should be ok. The charger probably won't last too long, but that's easy to upgrade. Probably will want to upgrade the connectors eventually.

That uses some newer Panasonic cells, which should be very good.

The top of the line batteries can be found at:

https://em3ev.com/

The actual cost of the battery isn't much different then Unit Pack Power, but unlike PowerPack The Em3ev prices doesn't factor in the cost of shipping.

Still totally worth it. You get a top of the line battery with a extremely good charger and they will stand behind their batteries.

I recommend getting a battery with a smart BMS so you can connect to it with bluetooth from a smart phone or tablet. This is extremely valuable for troubleshooting, estimating range, and monitoring the life of the battery. This is a worthwhile upgrade.

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>I would like to get front disc brakes. Do I just have to replace the fork?

Unless you do something crazy custom then front brakes are not very likely to be done affordably on this bike.

The reason being is that it's a threaded fork with quill stem. Modern bicycles, except the absolutely bottom of the barrel, use threadless forks with clamp on stem. A threaded fork with disk brakes are really uncommon and not recommended.

Instead what you should do is upgrade the brakes from cantalever brakes to V brakes. This is a very significant upgrade in braking reliability. Cantis work well when properly adjusted, but they are a pain and finicky.

I consider cantilever brakes to be dangerous on ebikes unless you really know what you are doing.

You will need to upgrade both the brake levers and V brakes. Cantilever brake levers are incompatible V brakes. Also upgrade the brake pads to dual-pad brake pads. Unless it's a very odd ball cantilevers upgrading to V is about as cheap and easy as it gets.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Mountain-Bicycle-Brake/dp/B001SZ09B6?th=1

How to upgrade:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMyVtWzeuBA

If you end up with squealing you can eliminate that by adjusting the pads so they are slightly toe-in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhgzTt1sumg

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Make sure to get some decent grease and use that to grease up the stem and threads on the bottom bracket and pedals and such things. The grease will help you torque things down correctly and prevent seizing and squeaking.