Reddit mentions: The best bike brake pads

>Crankset

If the bike is badly messed up you probably want a bottom bracket rather, or at least in addition to, the crankset.

The bottom bracket is were the bearings are. The crank is just the lever. If the crank isn't stripped out or cracked you can probably just re-use it and put new pedals on it as well as new crank gears. Although it may just be cheaper to buy the entire crankset.

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>Front Derailleur
>
>3 Speed Shift

I recommend converting from a 3-speed to a 2-speed though.

A 2-by setup is MUCH MUCH simpler. The reason being is that getting the chain to perfectly line up on all 3 gears and getting the indexed shifting (clicky shifter) working perfectly is a real huge pain in the ass. Also if the bike gets even a little bit knocked around and/or the shifter cable stretches a fraction of a mm (which there is probably going to be some movement somewhere) then it'll throw everything off again. Conversely with a 2 speed you can use a simple friction shifter and don't have to worry about any adjustments except the travel limiter screws built into the front derailleur.

Rear derailleurs are easy to setup provided nothing is bent. But a front derailleur is finicky as hell.

​

Unless the front derailleur is completely destroyed I would try to clean it up and save it. Fitting a new front derailleur can be challenging as there are no real standards. Rears are standardized so it's rarely a issue.

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>Cassette Tool

​

You probably want this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=freewheel+removal+tool&ref=nb_sb_noss

see:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/determining-cassette-freewheel-type

​

All cheaper hub motor kits use freewheels.

​

>Motor Kit -

These types of motor kits are fine.

Be aware of the downsides though: They are cheap and use wonky as hell parts. The wheel builds are terrible, rims are weak, you WILL have to stay on top of spoke tension... they WILL loosen on their own and WILL break if they become too lose. Stay on top of that and you avoid 90% of the problems people have and the wheel should last a long time. The connections are odd and cheap, the wiring isn't very good, and the throttle will wear out fairly quickly and need to be replaced.

Think of them as a 'starter kit'. As you use the bike you probably will want to upgrade them and that is very good way to get started in the hobby of building ebikes. It is totally recommended for hobbyists. This way you can learn as you go. The motor will last a very long time and is a good basis for starting out.

People have put 10,000+ miles on these cheap kits and they will work, except for the problems I mentioned previously. Over time you can upgrade individual parts into something very nice. However if you are looking for something that will work 100% reliably for years out of the box.. then you will want to spend more money. I recommend Grin for commuter car-replacement setups.

Since you are fixing up a old bike you are interested in the hobby side of things so this is probably a good start.

​

>Battery

This battery is too small. These 1000w kits require a pretty powerful battery to keep up with them. The seller is not giving you enough technical information and I think they are being dishonest about the max ratings.

The battery is the actual heart of the bike. It's more important then the motor. It's not where you want to save money on. Between a cheap motor and good battery or cheap battery and good motor... I would choose good battery 150% of the time.

Since they are not really something you can upgrade it's worth buying quality from the start.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/US-stock-Hailong-shark-battery-Electric-bicycle-Battery-48V-17Ah-16ah-ebike-lithium-battery-for-750W/1178407_32966636638.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148357.5.181d1b6483Th5b

That's about as cheapest as I would go.

Unit Pack Power a lower-end manufacturer with good reputation. It is, still, however a low-end battery built to a price point and it's shipped from the USA. You will want to pay attention to the cables and connections to make sure they don't get too hot. They kinda skimp on the wiring sometimes. But it should be ok. The charger probably won't last too long, but that's easy to upgrade. Probably will want to upgrade the connectors eventually.

That uses some newer Panasonic cells, which should be very good.

The top of the line batteries can be found at:

https://em3ev.com/

The actual cost of the battery isn't much different then Unit Pack Power, but unlike PowerPack The Em3ev prices doesn't factor in the cost of shipping.

Still totally worth it. You get a top of the line battery with a extremely good charger and they will stand behind their batteries.

I recommend getting a battery with a smart BMS so you can connect to it with bluetooth from a smart phone or tablet. This is extremely valuable for troubleshooting, estimating range, and monitoring the life of the battery. This is a worthwhile upgrade.

​

>I would like to get front disc brakes. Do I just have to replace the fork?

Unless you do something crazy custom then front brakes are not very likely to be done affordably on this bike.

The reason being is that it's a threaded fork with quill stem. Modern bicycles, except the absolutely bottom of the barrel, use threadless forks with clamp on stem. A threaded fork with disk brakes are really uncommon and not recommended.

Instead what you should do is upgrade the brakes from cantalever brakes to V brakes. This is a very significant upgrade in braking reliability. Cantis work well when properly adjusted, but they are a pain and finicky.

I consider cantilever brakes to be dangerous on ebikes unless you really know what you are doing.

You will need to upgrade both the brake levers and V brakes. Cantilever brake levers are incompatible V brakes. Also upgrade the brake pads to dual-pad brake pads. Unless it's a very odd ball cantilevers upgrading to V is about as cheap and easy as it gets.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Mountain-Bicycle-Brake/dp/B001SZ09B6?th=1

How to upgrade:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMyVtWzeuBA

If you end up with squealing you can eliminate that by adjusting the pads so they are slightly toe-in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhgzTt1sumg

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-----------------

Make sure to get some decent grease and use that to grease up the stem and threads on the bottom bracket and pedals and such things. The grease will help you torque things down correctly and prevent seizing and squeaking.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

Awesome!! This is a rad bike to get started on. Here's what I think:

• Seatpost clamp: This is the only thing I see that is potentially urgent. The fact that the bolt is missing and the seatpost isn't bottomed out may mean someone jammed a too-big seatpost in there. Pull out the seatpost (hopefully it's easy) and assess the situation. At a minimum you need a clamp bolt.
  
  
• Sizing: You are fine for now and you will tweak as you go. I'm 5'11" and I have two 54cm frames I love. Check out this GCN video on bike fitting.
  
  
• Saddle: You may want a different one, maybe soon. See how this one feels when you start riding.
  
  
• LBS tune up: Since you got a free bike I say go for it. Ask for a deep clean while you are at it. You will learn to do this stuff yourself but it doesn't hurt to start with a pro job. They may suggest new cables and housing, which is usually a big benefit on a neglected bike. And you got a free bike! If you spent $150 getting it shipshape you are still waaaay ahead. If they suggest a new chain/cassette try just starting with the chain, which should be much cheaper. All of these jobs (cables/housing/chain/cassette replacement) you could learn to do yourself. (Also, are you missing the front derailleur cable?)
  
  
• Brakes: Looks like you need new pads. I think these Kool stop Salmon pads for Campy 2000 are the ones you should get. The new pads will slide into the existing brake shoes.
  
  
• Lock mount: The thing strapped to the top tube is a lock mount. I prefer to clip a lock to my belt or keep it in my bag. Those bike mounts always rattle too much for me. I would ditch that, but that's my personal preference.
  
  
• Pedals: Eventually you may want shoes/pedals. That can wait.
  
  
• Fenders: Those are Crud Roadracer Mk2 fenders, and they are a little worse for wear. Fortunately they are designed to be easily removeable. Take them off. If you plan to ride in the rain you can replace them with Crud Roadracer Mk3 (much better, also removeable).
  
  
• Tools: The best starter tools are a floor pump, a portable pump, tire levers, a patch kit, a mini tool, and a bag/pouch of some kind to hold it all.
  
  
• Repair guides: The Park Tool website and Sheldon Brown's website are excellent sources, both linked in the sidebar, and GCN has a ton of videos.
  
  Things to learn about:
  
  
• changing a tube
  
  
• patching a tube
  
  
• threadless stem & headset adjustment
  
  
• brake cable tension/setup
  
  
• front & rear derailleur adjustment
  
  This is a fantastic bike. Great way to start out!!!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

> I think I might like a minimum of a 105 groupset, but I haven't seen any bikes on that website that include the brake calipers/pads in that groupset. Is this cause for concern?

One way that site saves money is by going to less expensive brake calipers. Some major manufacturers do this as well, actually. Fortunately, Tektro brakes aren't all that bad -- maybe a bit heavier, but the stopping power is usually fine. If it's not, replacing the brake pads with some good Kool Stop pad for about $7 (each wheel) is an easy fix. You can also replace the brakes with [105 calipers]http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_576933_-1___) for $46 total (during a 20% off sale), and that's a relatively simple change to make.

> Next, are the clipless pedals that are sometimes included any good? I thought I read here that the pedals that are included for free are always pretty bad.

I wouldn't say they're bad, but they definitely give you the cheapest pedal they can find. And it's not like good pedals cost that much anyway. Shimano's R540 ($26 during a sale) and M520 ($19 during a sale) are perfectly fine pedals for casual riders. Or even modestly serious riders, honestly. I wouldn't choose a bike from them because it came with pedals. The pedals might be good enough, but if not it's an easy upgrade.

You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.

Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.

Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.

I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.

If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.

The bike is not water proof. Or i should say water resistant on a small scale. I try not to ride in the rain, but have done so in light not heavy .02 to. 05 inches. .15 inches and above is too much for me. If riding in rain do the following:

1. the lcd display - put a small sandwich ziplock bag over it fited with rubberband and a bungee cord.
   
   
2. The battery- apply dielectric grease to the battery mount plate connectors where you seat the battery. The top portion off your battery you want to moun with a ziplock bag secured rubber bands or ziplock. Double bagged if heavy rain.
   
   
3. Wiring- Disconnect all snap in wire connections. Apply dielectric grease on the tips and reconnect. Optional step, apply small waterpoof expoy silicone layer once the wires are fastened. Dont worry you can easily peel it off.
   
   
4. Controller box - apply silcone on the two holes where the wires exit e controller box. If you do not the box can fill up with water and damage the connections. Controller will not overheat. Optional step apply car gasket sealant on in the panel of the control box cover to make a water proof seal. As is is just a metal on metal contact with the frame.
   
   
5. The motor is fine just dont submerge it or the controller box in water.
   
   
   For snow:
   
   Your main enemy is salt and clean the bike after each trip. If you do not rust will form on the nuts,bolts,brake cables,roto and chain. Properly lube and clean to prevent rust. I am still dealing with rust damage from winter in the summer. Its a pain to remove but can be done. I had a mild winter and not much snow. But if frequent you want to experiment to dropping your tire psi to 5 so that they are squishy instead of the reccomend 20 psi.
   
   I usually adjust my brakes every 200 miles. I also swapped the cheap metallic brake pads for ceramic which has been a major improvement. Hydraulic is things to do but bike funds are low and cermaics are doing great. You can a pair for about $24 dollars on amazon and are well worth it. But with doing 4 miles a day, the stick ones should hold you fine for quite sometime.
   
   
   Gekors Ceramic Bicycle Disc Brake Pads for Shimano/Tektro/TRP, 1 Pair with a Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCTCYPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OrVqDb184PGVF
   
   
   Hope this helps 😄

If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD7XL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.

These are also pretty good albiet more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1536557364

BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.

You're welcome. Remove that cable but save it so you can use for measurements. You CAN ride the bike without it but it will be in low (3rd) gear.

Shifting on these goes like this...

1 (1st) is high gear and is the easiest. When used the cable pulls that indicator chain all the way out.

2 (2nd) is normal as if riding a single speed bike. The cable pulls the indicator about halfway.

3 (3rd) is low gear and the hardest to pedal in. Cable doesn't pull at all. Takes a bit more muscle to pedal but you can go really fast.

Once you replace that cable you'll have a nice bike to ride. They are ridiculously easy to maintain once you get the hang of it.

Also, your wheels probably have chrome/steel rims. You will want to replace the brake pads with Kool-Stop Continentals. Get the SALMON (orange) colored ones here. These are the best brake pads for these old wheels. Salmon color only though!

The Oryx brakes are pretty squishy and come with some pretty soft pads, so they require longer engagement, thus more pad wear. Like Waltz said, get some v-brake pads or new canti's all together. Like shorty or shorty ultimates or my favorites Paul touring cantis.

If nothing else just get some Salmon Koolstop Thinline pads and make sure they have good toe-in.

Adding to the point about upgrading the brakes, I bought a bike two years ago with very similar brakes (Fuji Sportif) and even upgrading the brake pads to these made a huge difference in stopping power over the stock pads. Plus the ability to swap just the pads instead of the brakes is great in the long run. Like zmjones said if you're just using it for fitness it's a perfectly nice bike and Claris is a solid groupset.

Kool stop dual compound brake pads

OR

Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

So... I had the same pads most likely on the R670... and they're just not great pads. What they really lacked was modulation, plus they built up crap in them constantly.

• I am using swissstop pads now, but only because I have carbon wheels. They are still good, but I've heard awesome things about shimano's pads on normal wheels. Plus, they're cheap.
  
  
• Pads are pads so far as fit, but yours are probably all-in-one instead of having separate pads/shoes like shimano equipment. So you'll need to buy the whole assembly. I got these, but you can get the 105 version for a bit less as well.

I had a look at the Hayes website and a quick google around and I think the answers are as follows:

1. I believe it is a G1 caliper.
   
   
2. Looking at the images from 1, if the connector currently functions, then simply unscrewing the existing hose and pushing on a new hose would probably work. The caveat is of course, as long as Jagwire hoses have the same ID as the original hoses.
   
   
3. The rebuild instructions are available on the Hayes website, no rebuild kits are listed. The pads are readily available according to Google, same as MX 1 pads, and it looks like Chain Reaction has rebuild kits. So does Amazon
   
   
4. I would ignore all of the above and make a small aluminium spacer to allow a standard IS or Post mount adaptor to fit inside the rear triangle. It would require a little fiddling around with cardboard templates, but I think a simple rectangular spacer with some holes drilled in it (perhaps two would need to be tapped) would allow the use of a more modern brake system and probably cost you not much more than all the bits needed to make these work properly again. Rebuilding them is risky because you are assuming the inside of the calipers is still in good condition, if you open them up first and inspect you can make a better decision.
   
   I revived an old set of Avid Juicy 5 brakes, just because I could, but when you look at the price of new Shimano kits, it just isn't worth it.
   
   Good Luck

Just so you know those shifters are pretty sought-after and go for decent money on eBay. They work awesome, keep them, but when you move on from this bke you can probably get your $60 back pretty easily.

That said, your easiset upgrade is to change the brake calipers. Some good reliable brakes are the Tektro ones here, but then you're doubling the cost of the bike. If you have a bike co-op in your town go see if you can get a decent used set.

Whatever else you do, change the brake pads. These are ultra cheap and formulated to work with steel rims. You can check with a magnet if your rims are steel.

One thing I'd really recommend is to hit up ebay for some better brake handles, as those dia-compe handles don't work particularly well. My old Shogun had those same handles someone had put on it, and braking was terrible.

I found some Shimano 600 brake levers for $20 (was a score actually). It brakes as well as my modern bike with those handles. Here's a pair for $30

Also, with standard old brake handles you can get some Cane Creek brake hoods off Amazon for cheap. Also, these grey brake pads work really well on the older brakes.

Other than that, tune it up and ride on! Looks like a great bike.

General rule of thumb for 10-speed or fewer for Shimano: the number of sprockets in the cassette should match the number of speeds for the shifters, and the rear-derailleur should be Shimano compatible (which basically means the amount of cable pulled per mm of movement remains the same). A MTB derailleur allows for wider gearing in the back (bigger sprockets), but is otherwise being pulled the same amount by the shifters (same number of sprockets).

It's never a bad idea to spend a little extra on brakes, but I actually have had great luck with Sunlite cantilever brakes as long as a) you set it up correctly and b) use a different, higher quality set of brake pads.

I don't think that's a 28" wheel. check again, old bikes are 27", new ones are 700mm, mountain bikes are 26" or 29".

Tires: Paselas used to be cheap and good 27" replacements at $15 each but the prices have gone up. CST brand on amazon are cheap chinese ones. Bell has these kevlar lined for $15

https://www.amazon.com/C638-Wall-Wire-Bike-Black/dp/B0037N32QQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405078&sr=1-7&keywords=27%22+tire

add 2x 27" tubes (700cc ~28-32mm tubes might work) for $4

Diacomp brakes: $6.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

brake and gear cables and housing: $6

https://www.amazon.com/PITCREW-500-Cable-Change-Kit/dp/B002GCALOU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405425&sr=1-1&keywords=bell+brake+cables

Bottom brackets needs sweat equity, repacking with grease and wash out the crap.

So you're looking at $50 in materials and about 2 hours of time. I've done this on an old 27" bike and still had stem shifting, man when you get the opportunity finding a decent STI shifting bike on craigslist for $200-300 would be a great value to keep your eyes on.

Don't upgrade anything more on this. god help you if it's a french bike with french threading.

The things that make the most sense to upgrade first are the cheap ones that move to a new bike the easiest:

• Saddle - the more you're standing while riding, the less important this will be. These are a cheap option to increase comfort while sitting:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CVY5ZXS/
  
  
• Pedals - these are nice flats for the money:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PD9Y5D6/
  
  
• Grips - I'm a fan of Ergon grips, but lots of options out there for under $25 that are better than stock
  
  
  Things that won't move with you that may make sense to look at:
  
  
• Brake pads - Kool stop pads like these are usually considered some of the better rim brake pads out there:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ0Q2/
  
  Tires - you're likely to find something with a little more aggressive tread than what you have for $20 / tire on clearance.

Oof just saw this. I listed all the compatible pads on u/nalc's post here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/7fvupg/brake_pads_for_smrt800_rotors/

I'm sure the B01S is a decent pad, but it's still a resin pad, and resin pads tend to wear fairly quickly, and also don't perform as well, esp. in the wet. Sintered (metallic) pads are a bit pricier initially, but less expensive in the long run.

First, definitely upgrade to a rotor that accepts sintered pads (i.e. not marked "resin-only") if you don't have them. Shimano RT800 are good.

Then get a sintered pad. I'd probably use these. If you're feeling adventurous, I might even suggest using an e-bike sintered pad for the rear.

For the record I have about 5000+ miles on my mountain bike and the sintered pads are only half worn and still perform really well...

I have a 73 Continental which is almost identical. Love that bike. Lots of cheap parts available for it and it's built like a tank (of course that means it's heavy as shit). Nice wide tires so it can go anywhere.

You'll want a new saddle and some new pedals at least. If the rest is in good shape I say leave it.

These should be the brake pads you need.

www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3a5qybTMGFV9C

I run kool stop dual compound brake pads on my Bianchi (Ambrosio Elite steel rims). It took a bit of modification, but these work great and are significantly better than the old pads. Works fine in the rain. http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

Spend a few bucks and buy a set of decent pads like Shimano. I run a DP18 up front i grabbed from CL and it did not have a machined braking surface. I purposely burned through an old set of pads to break thru the clearcoat and paint to hit metal. If you have the NMSW rim then you go thru that first set of pads pretty quick. Now they are smooth, quiet, and with Shimano pads brake great. Just make sure with dual pivot pads you have them adjusted properly to the rim.

Edit: Changed the link to a set of pads.

I'm pretty sure that's a G1. I have the same on an old Jamis Diablo.

I've used these pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CK0IQI

Fortunately this caliper has worked flawlessly for me since ~2001 with little to no maintenance, so I've never had to try to rebuild them.

This Pinkbike post indicates a G2 rebuild kit will work on it https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=192349 and indeed from a search it looks like rebuild kits are generally listed for both G1 & G2 as the same kit.

>riding my brakes pretty hard and after two weeks, they are stating to give out

When you press the brake lever can you place your thumb between the lever and the bar?

If not then your brake pad wore down to the point, you need more cable pull. Its an easy adjustment. Check to see if your brakes need replacing at the same time.


I live in hilly Seattle , and its not uncommon to replace brakes often. Especially if you have cheap brake pads. I am hoping to make it a yearly replacement.
These are very good (the brand)
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Brake-Pads/dp/B001HBRHJS

Depends on how long your daily ride is. For me, I just go with my leather coat and an extra layer, nice windproof gloves (windproof and waterproof is a huge plus) and some nice toasty (wool, stays warm even when wet) socks with an extra pair for when I get where I'm going. Helmet with a toque and my snowboard goggles on extra cold/windy/snowy days.

As for the bike, I ran continental gatorskins for the past 2 years with minimal problems. Just make sure to not go too fast into a turn and always keep an emergency line open. There are, of course, winter specialized/spiked tires that would give you more grip but I guess it depends on choice.

Important note: brakes. The normal compound you use for regular spring/summer/fall riding won't work. It freezes and loses all grip. Invest the $30 in a the winter specialized pad packs (these are the ones I used and found a huge improvement over the stock shimano pads in cold weather, but any cold-weather specific pads should work well) and actually retain stopping power when it gets cold, makes a huge difference.

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XFsKDb119BBTN

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T35RSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHsKDbR6NBC2N

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

Second time I've recommended these today! When the pads wear out, you can try these pads for the wetter weather.

I've always been fine with the Shimano pads, but some like the Kool-Stop better.

So I recently lost one of my brake pads. I have these brakes and planning on buying these replacements. Can anyone advise if these brakes are the right ones? They look like they fit, but I know there are other types of brakes like v-brakes and disc brakes that I don't know too much about. Thanks!

I actually commute on a 1985 Schwinn Mesa Runner with a front hub conversion. As long as your brakes are adjusted correctly (I would also recommend getting new pads), they should be perfectly safe with an ebike kit. Test your stopping distance in both wet and dry conditions before a serious ride.

You could try a harder pad, but often that results in less friction or more force required at the lever to get the same braking performance. Kool-stop used to make great rim brake pads and appear to still make them. Might be worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hnEYDbJ9WSXJP


They are about twice the cost initially but once pad replacement is required, the insert is about the same price at the pads you currently use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJVA9S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4pEYDb6FBC54S

If you decide to try these or any other pad, verify fitment. It's been years since I've worked on a road bike and don't know if compatibility is what I remember. They visually look the same as far as mounting goes.

I got these cool stop brakes for my ebike and they are wonderful. I'm a heavier guy (~90kg), and with all the parts of my ebike, the bike probably weighs like another 20kg. I've carried another 10-15kg when I go grocery shopping.

I've only got them on the rear, but they work like 200x better than the shitty front brake pads. I highly recommend them. I've had mine for nearly 200km and they could some adjusting, but I don't think that they need to be replaced until ~500km.

You have cantilever brakes and the squealing could be caused by a few things. However, I would really recommend getting that brake cable replaced as well. Judging from the photo it looks like it's either rusted or really worn out or there's some corrosion going on there. Either way I would inspect the cable to see if you need to have it replaced.

Since you're new to biking I would recommend having a shop install the pads for you + check the cabling. Cantilevers are extremely fussy if you don't have them dialed in right. Maybe ask to watch them do it so you can see how it's done for next time. Something like these will work with your setup:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Eagle-Cantilever-Bicycle/dp/B001SYR4HO?th=1

Brooks is the best, and expensive.

If you are on budget, for the saddle, Charge Spoon. Very comfortable.

Handlebar's aren't very expensive. VO Milano is $25.

Brake pads - you will need it, and makes the rider safer.Here is the link.

Fenders - VO alloy

Velo Orange makes replacement half-hoods.

Kool stop makes racer pads so your brakes work again.

A little saddle soap and some ass-time and that saddle will get comfy again. It's an AGDA, which is the french knockoff of a brooks.

If you're going to ride it, get a shop with a cotter pin press to replace the cotter pins now; it'll make your life way better. Otherwise, grease 'er up and go!

I have a slightly nicer (JIS cranks) bike of the same vintage. They're lovely things.

I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

Check to make sure the brake pad hasn't hardened or has a piece of metal stuck in it and is scratching the rim. I got a 2014 Trek 1.2 in May and I noticed a scratching sound on the back brake during the first ride. I took off the brake pad and it was clean. When handling the brake pad it felt like it was a rock. I checked the other 3 pads and they felt softer, like regular rubber.

When reading reviews about this bike before I bought it. A common thing was the bad brake pads. I decided to upgrade the brake pads. I got some Shimano br-6700 cartridge pads and they are amazing.

Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.

See if you can find somewhere to order in/buy the ones KoolStop offers :) http://www.koolstop.com/english/mafac.html.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003OK5TSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493493194&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kool+stop+macfac. Huzzah! I suggest the 'salmon' compound over the black for cleaner braking in the rain. :)

Those are steel rims, so in theory can be hammered out, with the tires removed, but I've never done it myself... Steel rims dent easily, as you've discovered, and they also don't stop well when wet. It's important to keep tire pressure up to the maximum rated on the sidewall to reduce chance of denting.

You could get a new set of wheels, though that bike might not be worth the investment.

As for pads, I'd recommend Koolstop salmon Continentals---

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373582725&sr=1-1&keywords=kool+stop+continental

My buddy built one of these when he was barely scraping by without a car after high school. Said it was great at getting him to work except for the fact he was running though brake pads like weekly since he used a 70's road bike with the extra atrocious eraser type brake pads.

Get some Kool Stop Salmon Mountain brake pads. They are huge and give the best braking that's possible to acheive. It will be a straight upgrade.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Mountain-Bicycle-Threaded/dp/B001CJZ0Q2/

>Also, could anyone tell me what this type of brake and brake pad is called?

The brake is a Weinmann centerpull. The brake pads are just brake pads.

Pads are cheap and easy to replace, decent ones aren't even too expensive. I run https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ on my bikes myself and the difference between them and stock Tektro pads (or 30 year old pads) is night and day. They also stand out if anyone takes your bike, I mean who else has black/salmon pads? http://i.imgur.com/LEu0Ppj.jpg

If pads don't do it, you might need a cable replacement too. It's one of the easiest tasks around, you'll just need cable cutters which is the most expensive part of the whole ordeal.

>Would something like this work?

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-5700-L-RC55C3-Cartridge-Brake/dp/B004JKJKWG/[2]

Yes.
(Source: Have the same calipers on one of my bikes)

You could start with better friction pads.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ should fit.

Tektro should make a dual divot caliper that fits, but you'll need to measure the distance from the mount hole to the pads to find the right size.

Of course, that assumes that the cables are new and the levers are of adequate pull.

Or get the pads you want with new holders for less

Or equally good (to 6800) 6700 sets for $10

Or any of the dozens of generic "ultralight" holders on eBay for $9.

I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.

Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.

Found the tires x2.
Tubes x2.
Seat is your choice, look for a "cruiser seat" if you want to retain the look of it x1.
Brake pads x2.

Cable kit is above. That should give you a rough outline of what I had to replace on mine, not counting opening up any of the sealed components to clean and regrease.

if they are stock brake pads i suggest replacing them , stock pads suck . Kool-Stop makes bitchen brake pads

i use these

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VT8VXQ3PEAV6TW65VHEX

​

also make sure you ajusted the brakes right so they both bite at the same time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YS1cW3I4OgQ

park tools does a good job explaining it

Thanks, that makes sense!

Would this work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TE9IQP68MWQU

Front brake is your friend! And the pads on stock tektro brakes are awful in my opinion. I would recommend these instead.

thanks for the advice. Ordered these form Amazon.ca which I think are the same as the linked nashbar ones. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>salmon compound pads

Like these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Cantilever-Compound/dp/B001SYR4HO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=27YULV4MFFFI8&coliid=IH37QA2V3O3IK&psc=1?

What /u/mmembrino said. I recommend the Kool Stop

New brake pads made a big difference for me. I bought these and they made a big difference. Also make sure your brakes are adjusted correctly.

> single pivot caliper brakes suck

SheldonBrown disagrees:

"Shimano Linear Response, a series of friction-reducing modifications introduced in the late 1980's in the
Shimano 105 group. The 105 SLR brakes (the best sidepull calipers ever made, in my opinion) "

I can speak from experience that my BR1050s and BR6400s stop just as good as any modern dual pivot, and look much better on a vintage bike IMO. If you're having problems with braking performance, it's most likely the pads. Spend that $40 on some KoolStop Dura 2s, and you'll never need to "upgrade" to dual pivot.

A) WTF are you doing to burn through brake pads in less than a month? I am 160 lbs and have owned the same main bike since 2012, commuted fast and daily from Brooklyn to Chelsea on it for at least 4 years in total, toured with 35 lbs of gear on a 2000 mile trip through Europe (including 40 mph descents through the mountains) and am just now needing to replace my Shimano 105 pads.

B) I'm replacing them with Kool-Stop Road Bike pads based on my awesome experience with them as mountain bike pads.

C) Unless you're wayyyy heavier, going a lot faster (Strava says I average about 14mph through the city, stopping at most lights), are constantly riding the brakes, or have them incorrectly installed, I just can't fathom how this would be happening.

D) If you're truly burning up pads this quickly, your rims may be (are probably) shot too (assuming rim brakes, not discs).

I got this package for $20 on ebay http://www.savannahtrading.com/images/DURASET.jpg - 2 sets of pads and a pair of holders. Not highway robbery but still silly considering it probably cost $1 to manufacture.

My next pads will probably be Dia Compe. http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Grey-Matter-Brake/dp/B001CJZ2S8 2 pairs for $8. I had something similar before and don't recall how they performed but am pretty sure they were no worse than the salmon pads.

Aluminum rims.

You want this style if you can get it to fit.

You might try replacing the brake pads with some of the Kool Stop salmon colored pads. I believe the "Continental" would fit these.

http://amzn.com/B001SYM690

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kool+stop+mountain+brake+pads&qid=1562761914&s=gateway&sprefix=koolstop+mount&sr=8-3

In their stock config the longer spacer is already on the inside.

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

You need the appropriate holder for your brakes.

For lots of Shimano/Shimano-type road brakes, that's this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

Sizing:
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer

Tires:
http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x23-Folding/dp/B001UL5JNG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761173&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+tires

Brake Pads:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761257&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop

Tune ups:
http://www.wasatchtouring.com/
http://highlanderbikeshop.com/service/

so this one? there seem to be a couple models to choose from
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425337739&sr=8-2&keywords=kool+stop

I would upgrade to Shorty side pulls and these pads http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1374713430&sr=8-7&keywords=bicycle+brake+pads

I ordered up a couple pairs of these Kool Stop pads from Amazon. Will report back once I get and install them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ

The rim is fine, take a scotch-brite pad with some soap and water and scrub it down.

Replace your pads (from what I can see, they'll be these)

Note: That groove on your rim is a wear groove. When it disappears, you're rims should be replaced.

Also, these are the Kool Stop Dura Ace pad holders that I was talking about. They should work with your old brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

Thanks for the detailed reply. Here are two pictures of my brake pads so from what you're saying, I can actually just buy these and switch them out? That would be great for sure. What about these?

These are my brakes and it just says "standard road cartridge pads" so I feel they would work but I hate wasting money on incompatible products.