Build Log 5: Viterbi

Highlights

• Viterbi split ortholinear 70 key keyboard from keeb.io
  
• Kailh Pro Purple Switches from NovelKeys
  
• DSA Honeywell Keycaps from PrimeKB
  
• Socketed Pro Micro controllers
  
• First personalized QMK keymap!
  
  

  Parts List
  

• 1x Viterbi PCB Kit
  
  • 2x Viterbi PCBs (Rev 1.0)
    
  • 2x Push buttons for reset
    
  • 2x 4.7kΩ resistors
    
  • 2x TRRS jacks
    
  • 78 1N4148 diodes
    
• 70x Kailh Pro Purple Switches (Tactile 50g)
  
• 1x Black PCB Viterbi Plate
  
  • 2x PCB swtich plates
    
  • 2x PCB bottom plates
    
  • 16x M2 6mm screws
    
  • 8x M2 11mm standoffs
    
  • 8x adhesive bumper pads
    
• 1x Silver Sheathed TRRS Cable
  
• 1x DSA Honeywell Keycaps
  
• 1x Red Rubber O-Rings
  
• 2x Pro Micro (ATmega32U4)
  
• 4x Mill-Max 12 Position Ultra Low Profile Socket
  
  

  Resources
  

• Nyquist Build Log
  
• An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
  
• Socketing a Pro Micro
  
• A Guide to Flashing a Let's Split for Beginners (Windows)
  
• Build Log 1: Nyquist
  
  

  Tools
  

• Hakko FX888D-23BY & Flush Cutters
  
• Hakko T18D16P Tip for general purpose soldering
  
  • The tip that comes with the FX888D is either this tip or one that is extremely similar.
    
• Kester Rosin Core Solder (63/37 .020)
  
• XOOL ESD Tweezers Tools Kit
  
  • ESD-15 for most work, especially inserting the wires during controller socketing
    
  • ESD-34A for desocketing the Pro Micro controllers after they've been socketed (as a pry bar under the controller and then as a wedge between the underside of the controller and the top of sockets)
    
• Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker
  
• NTE Electronics SW02-10 Solder Wick
  
  

  Notes
  

• The Viterbi build process is pretty much the same as the Nyquist, with the addition of 10 keys. The other difference is the placement of the two resistors, which now are only installed on the master side (the side with the USB cable, the left hand side).
  
• When flashing, I wasn't able to find eeprom files specifically for the Viterbi. I instead used the eeprom files from the Nyquist and everything seems to be working so far.
  
• Some of the keys are a bit crooked... I'm not sure if this is the switches themselves, or me somehow soldering the switches crooked.
  

No downsides. I followed this guide. Just be careful and take your time. There are lots of small parts and it can get frustrating. I suggest taking plastic cups and keeping the screws from each step separate and labeled. Here are the tools I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071PB4RPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXXQHS8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

no problem man.

Any basic knife will do

flashlight: https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Lithium-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503516912&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=fenix+flashlight&psc=1

Screwdrivers:https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517004&sr=1-1&keywords=micro+screwdriver+set

Tweezers:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXXQHS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Iron:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRC2XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Sucker:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIPKOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Station:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXL6AHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Iron Tip Cleaner:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PQ32EPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spring Punch:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=twister_B01IRD4F34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wire cutters:https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-TR-20-M-D-Flush-cut-Construction-Dissipative/dp/B00FZPM2AQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517519&sr=1-15&keywords=soft+wire+cutter

Ahh that would do it, and hey nothing wrong with what you've got, I didn't mean to imply that you did a bad job. I thought it was the before pic. SMD can be a bit tricky, if I may give a little advice for future, make sure you remove all solder from the pad the next time (solder wick is your friend as is isopropyl alcohol), then add a very small amount of solder to one pad to stick one of the tabs from the component, then solder the other pads, a small set of Electronics tweezers is also very helpful in placing components while soldering

There are a lot of factors that come into play on how much it will cost. Even with DIY you have options. You can do real DIY, where you have to find schematics, source the parts, make your own pcbs, make your own front panels...or you can buy kits. I cant read schematics so I went the kits route.

It still cost me some money to buy equipment: soldering iron, solder, circuit board holder, tweezers, wire cutter, headband magnifier.

From there I mostly stuck with products from AI Synthesis, Trogotronic, and Befaco. Those companies all sell kits with very clear instructions. I was new to soldering so this was key for me. Some other kits I bought had very poorly written instructions and their support was just as well done as their manuals.

If you know what you are doing then you may have better luck. You can also try modules that require SMD soldering. Mutable Instruments has released all their code. Amazing Synth is a great resource for high quality pcb's. They dont sell the parts though so you gotta find the BOM and source the parts. Amazing Synth has the BOM's for most, if not all, of the modules. You'll also need to do some programming and upload the code from a computer to the modules.

To try to answer "how much will it cost" it really depends on how many modules you plan on making and what method you choose.

There's a whole subreddit dedicated to those of us who DIY...come check out /r/synthdiy