Reddit mentions: The best screwdriver sets

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Hello fellow MX518 master! I still have mine as well, but don't use it much as of now.

Which headset, headphones do you have? I could perhaps suggest you with something nice here as well.

---

This PC will kick ass and chew bubblegum. It's able to record gameplay no problem. You can even edit it fairly well as well.

I went for a black & red theme, since that's the most common and easiest to create, but if you want a different color, let me know and I can go to town!

I didn't go all out on your budget, because honestly, you don't have to spend more. I already went to the very high end tier for most parts.

Also, a couple of parts are from MicroCenter.

---

Talking about the parts, I will provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these.

I also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

Lastly, I will provide a short rationale or review for the products.

---

PCPartPicker part list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $300.00 @ MicroCenter (combo)
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $20.00 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $120.00 @ MicroCenter (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.00 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $70.00 @ MicroCenter
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Tools| Anti Static Wrist Strap| $4.00 @ MicroCenter
Tools| Screwdriver Set| $7.33 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | NO rebates!
| Total | $1053.75
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

####Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ← Important!
What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ← Important!
GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ← Important!
How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ← Important!
What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01 ← Important!
USB Type C: Here - 4:30
What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
Radiators explained: Here - 4:34
What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ← Important!
Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ← Important!
Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ← Important!
What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.


---

####Guides

---

Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

How to install a 115x CPU?
Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
How to install thermal compound?
The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
How to set up your SSD & HDD?
This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
* How to use Ninite?
This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.

Snap-On ratchets run around $100 each, as does a set of sockets. Going with something like a 3/8 or 1/4 80-tooth ratchet (FHL80 and F80 are two of the classic snapon designs) and an SAE and Metric set of sockets will be a GREAT gift that lasts a LONG TIME. This will sound weird, but Pawn Shops are a great place to get Snap-On stuff. I know it is strange giving a used item as a gift but it isn't uncommon because these things are such high quality. Or you can buy one part new (like the ratchet) and get a few sets of sockets from the pawn shop or visa versa. Look on ebay and local pawn shops to see what deals you can find to give him the most impressive gift possible.

For screwdrivers you can go with this Wera Kraftform Laser Tip or this, Wera Kraftform Chisel Tip or this Proto Duratek set. Now obviously, you can go smaller sets to save money or larger sets to cover more options. I have the Wera Laser Tips set that I mentioned and it is quite nice. The screwdrivers are excellent quality as I mentioned before. The Chisel Tips don't have the laser cut on the tips, but they have a MUCH harder screwdriver. They are designed to be pounded on with a HAMMER! Either of the two Wera kits covers everything you need for larger screwdrivers other than JIS screws (which are only necessary if he works on Japanese vehicles or motorcycles).

For precision Wiha makes great precision stuff. There is the classic big kit, flat version or benchtop version, which is pricey but has pretty much EVERY precision screw driver and small nut driver he could need (other than proprietary ones or security ones, but those you get on an as needed basis anyways). There is also this one, which I own. It isn't quite as nice as the previous kit, but it still is really damn nice with a very well made metal case and the quality of the tips is excellent.

A good multimeter like a Greenlee DM-510A (rebadged Brymen BM257S iirc) will do well for him (often goes on sale for around $110-130). Otherwise, a Fluke 87V will run around $150(if lucky)-$250 used on ebay in excellent condition. The Fluke 87V is the classic high-quality multimeter. A third option is the Brymen BM869S, which you can get from TME.eu in Europe for around $240. This thing is an amazing meter (it is by far my favorite meter) but Brymen doesn't have the name recognition that Fluke has so it might not be the best for a gift.

You can pick and choose from these options to maximize your gift impact. As for the design of the garage, I'm a bad example. I keep a small limited amount of quality stuff, because I move around a lot. You can snoop around on the forums at GarageJournal. You will encounter a LOT of garages that will help you get ideas in your mind. You can ask questions there as well if you are having trouble.

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

Youtube I guess. Here's some info about rebuilding in general, feel free to skip what you already know. Make sure you get an ohm reader first thing. You can buy wire and an ohm reader at lightningvapes.com with coupon code LV20 for 20% off. I think most people recommend 26g wire. I went with 24 and it's awesome for subohming, if you're planning to build higher, 28g would be the best. I'm not sure how well 30g will work out but the link below will let you know!

Also check out this website: http://steam-engine.org/coil.asp

On there you input your gauge wire, single/dual/etc coil, your target resistance and what the diameter of your coil is (you'll know this by which drill bit you wrap your wire around. It'll tell you how many wraps to do to get the resistance you want. After you build you'll want to throw the atty on the ohm reader to check for shorts (it won't show a regular reading if it's shorting) and also to check if you're near what your target resistance was. Don't be worried if it's not exact, the 510 ohm reader boxes aren't known for accuracy. If you're within 0.05 ohms you're good. Also some people like to build on their ohm reader, it's nice.

As far as other tools for rebuilding. I would recommend this screwdriver set: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420044741&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+6+piece+precision+screwdriver+set

It's great, I use it everytime I touch my mod for maintenance. Not sure what other people use but since I got that I never looked for anything else! The bits are awesome for wrapping coils around and the phillips will fit your post screws for sure.

That's about all you need really. Other than wire cutters and pliers/tweezers. You can get these awesome ceramic tipped tweezers from that first site. The ceramic won't get hot so you can squeeze your coils tighter with them while the coils are hot.

As far as preventing shorts, well I've never had a short so I can only tell you what I do. Don't let your coils' excess legs be hanging out and flying around all willy-nilly. Cut them nice and close and if you can't get close enough, bend them upward. That's about it as far as I know.

Let me know if you have any questions, sorry I couldn't teach you to build!

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Here are some links. Most of these are things that if someone had, they wouldn't mind having doubles or whatever. Most of them I own or have used and liked. Many of them can be found at big box stores but all of these should contain brand and picture..

Like, the utility knife is a particular one that is really nice, both brand and style. Super handy for cutting thick insulation.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10045-Single-Blade-Snap-Off/dp/B0051QIA3C

Can't go wrong with knipex cutters. Anything knipex is pretty good. Without knowing more details on what they are into, this is a decent all rounder.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4MPAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1418895942&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=31TAs95wNXL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Things always need oiling. Hinges and ball bearings and stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKHNU0
(Plus)
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Kroil-Penetrating-Lube-Aerosol/dp/B00EINDJSU/

One screwdriver that serves many functions in one small, cheap package:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_170991-86580-SF14_4294857608__?productId=1221941

A tape measure that has the decimal / fractional written on it. I can read a normal one, but I find work with my Lufkin more accurate and less transposed bits.

http://www.amazon.com/Lufkin-QRL625MP-Vertical-1-Inch-25-Feet/dp/B004R1JPEA/

Ball end metric allen wrenches with screwdriver handles. They make many sets ( standard, etc)

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI

These clamps are decent and cheap for both woodworking and metalworking. Irwin is a nice namebrand but it's a lot more money for just a clamp.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps/11-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39535.html

Metalworking with flat stock.. you often have some holes that need to be drilled from a template to a thing. These center in the hole and transfer the marks. (Using the clamp helps too)
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html

Good quality headlamp with a red mode. I like the red mode for outdoorsy things. Non red mode lamp people are jerks when they turn and talk at you and blow your night vision.
http://www.rei.com/product/866955/petzl-tactikka-plus-headlamp

SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers https://www.fasttech.com/p/1926001 stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
Length | 0:01:17


SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 http://www.vapetime.co.uk This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: http://www.vapetime.co.uk/ud-coil-jig-v3/ If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
Length | 0:04:00


SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336275&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&pebp=1435336344707&perid=1M11EBNKQ3Z63A7B0VQ8 Wire Clippers http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336368&sr=8-1&keywords=Wire+Clippers 24g Kanthal http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JWYIHLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336391&sr=8-1&keywords=Kanthal&pebp=1435336399204&perid=0Q2SHF5N87Q64YJT5F9E Organic Japanese Cotton http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Organic-Cotton-Organic-unbleached-Largest/dp/B00P219C5Q Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out http://www.coil-master.net/product/diy-kit Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 http://www.vapordna.com/Project-Sub-Ohm-Designed-Mutation-X-V4-RDA-p/psmxv4.htm The Mako http://www.beyondvape.com/store/import-cat-c-1_2/beyond-vape-mako-rda-p-1927.html The IMP http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/youdimp.htm Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram http://instagram.com/grimmgreen/ Twitter https://twitter.com/GrimmGreen Facebook https://www.facebook.com/GrimmGreen Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
Length | 0:22:32






****

^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

So, if you're on a tight budget I would suggest trying the Nikon manual focus lenses. I had the 50, 35, and the 105. They are good lenses but I had my issues with them. They focus backwards, to go to infinity you rotate the focus ring the opposite way of nearly every other lens. They also have a distinct bokeh, it's not bad, just not my taste. They are cheap and really easy to come by.

To declick lenses you should only need a good set of precision set of screwdrivers. I have these
You can look up declicking specific lenses on Google.

I also purchased [this](Neewer Professional Flat & pointhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6O92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPn1xbT6E3FVK) so I could take off the front element of the lens if it needed cleaning. Totally not necessary for cine modding but fun to take apart lenses.

You can buy focus gears from all kinds of places online. There are plenty of choices and prices. I buy mine from followfocus gears.com they aren't cheap, but they are seamless, and are 3D printed for specific lenses. They fit perfectly.

For the adapters, I've had some good luck with fotodiox in the past. They are relatively cheap. Sometimes they don't fit as snuggly as they should and that is a problem. With my 105mm when I would touch the lens to focus the lens would physically move side to side and the image would shift. Not good for video. For my contax set I purchase Leitax adapters that actually screw on the the existing mount so they can't shift at all.

For you I suggest you getting a cheap 50mm and try it out. You don't need to buy the gears or declick right away. Just get a lens and an adapter and see how you like it. Stay away from Canon FD lenses as you need an adapter with a glass element in it to focus to infinity. It's not worth the hassle and hard to find a good quality adapter with out breaking the bank.

Here is iFixIt's teardown for the 2012 MBP unibody, just follow the first few steps to replace the HD with the SSD and take out the optical drive. Then you should follow the instructions for whatever optibay you buy to put the HD in there--it should be straightforward, just snap it into the connector and put in a couple screws.

The SSD/HDD dual set up guide you linked is good. The most important thing is to keep all the prefs, caches, library files, etc that get read/written to a lot on the SSD to take advantage of those speed gains. My set up is everything but Desktop, Movies, Pictures, Downloads (I use it for storage.. if you'll use it just for temp stuff you download before moving them elsewhere then you can leave that on the SSD), Documents, and the iTunes Music folder is on the SSD, and I permalinked those folders so they are fully integrated into Finder. The only problem is that their icons don't appear as folders that you can quick look (press space to quickly preview) or expand, rather they act as files almost that take you to the real location on the HD. You can do the permalink through terminal or use the symbolic linker app to do it easier.

Ideally, you would have the SSD in the Optibay and the HDD in the main slot so the HDD can still take advantage of the sudden motion detector in case you drop the laptop and so there is less noise because the spinning HDD will be a lot quieter in the shielded main slot... BUT the 2011/2012 MBP's have crashing problems with Sata 3 (6 Gbps) drives in the optical drive slot... SO you'll have to take out the HDD from the main slot, put the SSD there, put the HDD in the Optibay, then install the Optibay in place of the Superdrive.

You'll just need a Phillips #0 and #00 screwdriver, and a spudger if you want (if you are gentle and have some fingernail, you can do it with your hands). I couldn't find them at my local Home Depot when I did my upgrade (mid 2009 mbp), but Radioshack has a decent set. They aren't the highest quality but they are magnetized so that prevents the screws accidentally dropping into the laptop's frame when you are removing them and they do the trick. If you feel like you might be stripping a screw, invest in a set of high quality Phillip's Wiha precision screwdrivers.

If you are considering partitioning and installing Windows using Bootcamp, know that you have to do that from the internal SuperDrive, you can't do it from an external CD drive. I have heard that if you put an enclosure, around $30, on the Superdrive and connect via USB it may work however. You could either install Windows while doing the SSD install, or plan on putting the Superdrive back in later to install Windows. Either way I would recommend installing to the SSD--256 GB should be more than plenty. That said, there are more convenient ways to run Windows such as Parallels or VMWare Fusion that integrate Windows directly into OSX so consider that too if you don't need a 100% windows environment.

Set-up routine.. I recommend wiping the SSD then installing Lion to it. Follow the Apple instructions here, under the section Installing Lion on an external storage device. Then boot to the SSD, wipe the HD using Disk Utility's Erase feature, leave it as Mac OS Extended Journaled and choose Zero Out Data from the security options. Then copy the Movies, Pictures, etc folders to the HD drive and create the symbolic links and delete the original folders.


I didn't proofread that so sorry for typos or if it's just a wall of information but if you have any questions or need more advice I would be glad to help

Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years

Flip Flops - generic things

Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly

Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this

Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.

Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...

Straws - these are probably already broken.

Whistle - really really really loud

Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire

Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough

LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny

LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine

Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds

Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!

First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom

playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on

glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision

personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving

Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this

collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either

sewing kit - i've used this a lot

ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?

garbage bag - for when my pockets are full

elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart

Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this

cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman

heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons

rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.

Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack

4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter

Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes

Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup

Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great

Tent stakes - for tent staking

Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff

Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!

Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc

Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason

Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american

Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight

Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space

Silkweights - PJs! and warmth

Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer

Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook

Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation

PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations

Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to

Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.

​

EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total

It might be worth looking at some of the industrial brands - they basically sell the truck tool brands (snap-on/matco/etc) for like 1/2 the price:

http://toolchat.net/ shows which models match up.

If you want to go cheaper, I personally think the gearwrench line of stuff is one of the best bets for quality:price. You also get free returns at autozone/sears/etc.

One thing to keep in mind is what tools you ACTUALLY need. For example, is your truck domestic or foreign? You may not really need SAE style sockets all.

General tips I've found researching tools:

• 6pt sockets do better at not rounding out nuts than 12pt
  
• A variety of deep and standard sockets is a good idea
  
• For screwdrivers, the swiss/german stuff is really good (wiha, witte, etc)
  
  I'd avoid craftsman these days. Most of the modern stuff is all made in china and pretty crappy. The exception would be if you wait for sales and get stuff really cheap, like $1-$2 per wrench.
  
  Here are some sets I'd consider buying:
  
  Williams Socket Set - because it's 3/8" which is a good balanced compromise, has both metric and SAE, deep and shallow. Industrial snap-on.
  
  Wiha precision screwdriver set - For small electronics work with PH000, PH00, etc
  
  Williams WRS-1 ratcheting screwdriver - This one is a snap-on clone at like 1/2 the price
  
  Don't overspend on tools as just a home/shadetree mechanic. If you want to splurge anywhere, just pick a few select tools that you'll use a lot like a ratchet, power drill, #1 screwdriver.
  

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed a glaring omission from your coffers.

Lineman's pliers, I'd recommend these Channellock's, or if you have a few dollars more their Code Blue line. They also have models with fishtape pullers if you need them.

Other things you could probably use are a good pair of wire nips. You won't find a better value than these Hakkos, A non-marring hammer/deadblow hammer is quite handy to have around. A pair of needlenose pliers. A variety of precision screwdrivers or an encompassing bit set, I like this Tekton Everybit set (confession, mine was a gift from Tekton rather recently but it is still an honest opinion)..

And where are your safety glasses, hmm?

BTW That is a nice selection of tools, this isn't really criticism, just trying to think of things you might find useful that you don't already have...

Step 1: Buy a multimeter. I prefer the Fluke 87v http://amzn.com/B0002YFD1K Sure it's $387, but it'll pay for itself eventually.

Step 2: You'll need to take apart the charger. A good set of screwdrivers would definitely help. http://amzn.com/B000NZ5QG0 It's only $40. Wiha maybe isn't the best, but I like them and they do offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee.

Step 3: Once you open it up, you can start testing it with the multimeter. Inevitably, however, you'll probably have to solder something. Hakko is a popular brand for good reason. This one is under $100 AND it comes with wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00AWUFVY8

Step 4: After you put it back together and find out that it's still not working, buy a replacement charger.

26ga kanthal

Cotton

Screwdriver set

Ohm reader

Velocity clone by tobecco

Pliers

That's about $60 bucks after shipping, and gets you pretty much everything you need.

You can opt for higher quality things. There's some great coil jig sets out there for about $15, which basically make coils for you. Theres higher quality cotton, better kanthal but this is a good basic setup. It's what I use, at least.

You'll see a lot of people vouching for the velocity clone, its a great RDA with a lot of room to build on.

As far as what mod you want? That's tough. That's a whole other conversation. I can tell you what I use, and what I like about them, though.

I use a Sigelli 150 TC, it's a dual 18650 box mod with temp control, I have two Samsung 25r's that have been "married" since I got them, and live in my mod. My Velocity usually sits on top of it. I use this set up at home, and try new builds on it.

My on the go set up is a Smok xcube mini box mod single 18650, with a royal hunter mini on top. I make sure to build around .3 to .4 on this set up, and stay in a safe range for the single battery. Using an online ohms law calculator, I'm vaping a .38 build at 40 watts. Which is drawing 10a from my battery that's rated for 20a.

Oh good, I've never known pcpartpicker to get compatibility wrong. Plus, from what I can see your build looks great. I did want to note that a GTX 1080 will only be different from a cheaper graphics card if you have a monitor that can utilise its power, i.e. one that is 1440p and 144hz (or more). If you're using a monitor with a lower resolution or refresh rate, say a 1080p/60hz monitor that's the most common, I'd consider a cheaper graphics card (like a GTX 1060 6GB), because there will be noticeable difference in performance. Just wanted to make sure you knew that. : ) I see a lot of people overspend just to have a GTX 1080 even though there will be no difference at all in what they can see on their screen.

Getting to the question you actually asked: So people like to say that you can build the entire computer with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver (that's the "regular" size). This is basically true. I'd recommend spending $10-15 on an extra long scewdriver (10 to 12 inches). The length really helps when working deep in the case. I bought one after my second build, and since then the builds have been SO much better. I have one like this one and it's great. Especially since it's magnetic.

Another extremely useful item is a magnetic scew/bolt tray, like this one will save you a LOT of time and trouble.

The one and only screw on most builds that doesn't take a standard screwdriver is the tiny screw that holds m.2 SSDs into place. I didn't see if you have an m.2 SSD or a 2.5" one. Either way, a small precision screwdriver set can be very useful. I own this one which is extremely high quality, but there are much cheaper versions out there. They come in quite useful around the house too.

So long story short, you can basically get away with just a cheap standard screwdriver, but a couple of extra tools can make your life a lot easier.

Hey there! I started circuit bending a year or so ago and I was asking a lot of the same questions as you.

Google around for circuit bending tutorials and you are bound to find some.

Here's what worked for me:

• Find toys/electronics to circuit bend.
  
  -These are usually found in thrift stores, like Goodwill.
  
  -Don't buy new toys from a department store, they usually have electronic components that are more modern and harder to mess with.
  
  -Don't spend a lot of money on a thing unless you are certain you know exactly how you are going to mess with it. I'm poor, so saving money was a huge aspect for me.
  
  -Look for stuff that was made somewhere between 1980 - 2005ish. test it out in the store first to make sure it makes noises, the more the better. (You can sometimes hear if a toy is older, its sounds sometimes sound a bit more 'low-quality' or something... At least to me. One indicator is this: If the batteries are running low, a good toy to circuit bend will make some odd sounds.)
  
  
• Buy the crud you need, but don't overdo it. Here's my motto: cheap is fine for first projects, but invest in better if you stick with it. You need:
  
  -solder
  
  -a soldering iron
  
  -Alligator leads(clips)
  
  -Several screwdrivers of varying sizes.
  
  -Several smaller screwdrivers
  
  -wire
  
  -resistors (look online for more details)
  
  -These are the basics, but there may be more you need. Look online more.
  
  
• Circuit bend.
  
  -Use an area with good light.
  
  -Google for tutorials for your specific item. You might have gotten lucky and gotten a commonly circuit-bent item.
  
  -Google for tutorials for specific effects. You might want to make your item make certain sounds. Google will help you find people who have done it before you, if it has been done.
  
  -Google for tutorials for any questions you have. People have probably asked it before. If you get stuck, phrase your question as many ways as possible and Google the variations. You will find answers, even if they are not the specific ones you were looking for. All information you digest will help you better learn this game of circuit bending.
  
  Yeah man... I dunno. Just use Google and if you're really into it, keep reading more about it. Stop by every thrift store you see or if you're loaded, buy whatever shit you wanna bend on Ebay. Buy the stuff you need online, at local electronic stores, or if you absolutely have to, radio shack.
  
  Here's a good site to start. Just read.

Well good for you, keep it up.

Building isn't hard. Just make sure you have the right tools or it'll be frustrating. You should try it. Get these wire cutters: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1243300-plato-170-flush-cutter-for-rebuildable-atomizers and a small set of screwdrivers like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Wire like this: https://www.amazon.com/UD-Youde-wire-Kanthal-Clapton/dp/B01JH0JJL4 Cotton like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2GXGAU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbk-WVjd9dE&app=desktop

You can get as advanced as you want with it but doing a simple build takes minutes and IMO, is the best way to go.

Also want to point out I didn't purchase all my stuff from those links, but those are the products you need. Those sites I linked should be legitimate, but you could always shop around for a better price or slight variations if you want.

Have a great night!

I worked at a bicycle shop for about a year and a half, and that was a couple of years ago, so take these tips with caution.

For tools, a basic mechanic set and some screw drivers should be what you need to get started on the routine maintenance. I'm assuming a 15mm crescent wrench is what you need to remove the wheels.

The spokes, however require a deal of training and some specialized tools to perform a proper repair. However, I'm sure there are YouTube videos that will teach you how to adjust and replace spokes without special tools, but you run the risk of damaging the nipples (the small threaded pieces that the spokes go into) and/or spokes.

Hopefully, your usual bike shop will be willing to show you how to do the fairly routine things, but if not you may want to see if there are any workshops near you that you can attend. Getting hands-on practice with people who know what they're doing is (in my opinion) the best way to learn mechanical tasks.

​

To reduce the amount of flats you get, you have options.

1. Write/Call your local department of transportation and ask them to clean the roadways
   
2. Upgrade your current tires to something more durable (I would recommend the Continental Ultra Gatorskin)
   
3. Carry a flat repair kit and some spare tubes (you'll want to add a crescent wrench to remove your wheels)
   
   There's also the nice things to have on hand as well:
   
   

• Chain lube
  
• Spare tubes
  
• Bicycle pump
  
• Rags to dry off the bike and chain so they don't rust
  
  Also, I have found Sheldon Brown's website quite useful when I needed some walk-throughs.
  
  ​
  
  Sucks that your local shop is closing down! I'm sorry to hear that.
  
  ​

I like a lot of Tekton tools, particularly their "Everybit" set. Great value, and it has a lot of security style bits you would need for disassembling electronics.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425168318&sr=8-1&keywords=tekton+every+bit

Other than the everybit set from Tekton, here is a list of tools I would recommend for general use...

• Adjustable Wrenches
  
• Large slip joint pliers
  
• small slip joint pliers or linesman's pliers (or both)
  
• Locking Pliers (Vise Grip)
  
• 8in (or around that size) diagonal cutter
  
• Hex keys
  
• Some sort of heavy duty shears or scissors, (Yellow handle Wiss Snips are a good choice)
  
• Straight claw hammer (personal choice, i think straight claws are more versatile than curved)
  
• A Drill with a plug. If you're going to buy a battery powered drill than you don't cheap out.
  
• Drill bits. Any cheap set should do, as long as it has a 1/8 in and 1/4 inch bit somewhere in there.
  
• A utility knife and a few spare blades (I can accomplish great things with a sharp utility knife)
  
• a small putty knife
  
• a 1 inch wide chisel
  
• Sandpaper (80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit.)
  
• Gorrilla Glue
  
• Super glue
  
• A hack saw with a few different blades
  
• Hot glue stick and a lighter (hot glue guns are for people with too much time on their hands)
  
• Blue painters tape (Light duty, leaves no glue residue)
  
• Duct Tape
  
• assortment of screws, nails, fasteners and wall anchors.
  
  I could continue this list forever so I'll just stop here. I have specific brand recommendations for almost all the tools on my list, but I wanted to keep it generic so that you could do your own unbiased research.
  
  In addition, if you really just want to get your hands dirty, you can accomplish a lot with a good quality multi tool. I recommend the Leatherman Wave. The leatherman will set you back $60-$70 but I think they're more than worth the investment. If you buy a multitool, you could probably almost cut my list in half.

The hobbyking hexes work well enough on their own. I personally just have this kit, it seems to work for pretty much everything: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397017140&sr=8-3&keywords=tekton

For a soldering iron, I'd get a Hakko 888 if you have enough money, or a hakko 936 clone if you do not.

All anti-vibration form is not the same. Some is better than others, but there are a lot of variables to take into account.

As for the oscilloscope, I'd say its pretty darn low on the list. A good scope is expensive (~>$300). They are quite easy to learn how to use, and can be quite useful, but I generally wouldn't purchase one if all you wanted to do is build a quadcopter or two.

Prying tools, a nice screwdriver, small spatulas a grounding bracelet and a nice case. $50? Fuck no.

this is just ok. For $60 you can get your self your last toolkit. This is the center piece the last screw driver set you will ever buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

pry tools aren't common but they diabolically cheap: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpry+tools&_nkw=pry+tools&_sacat=0

grounding bracelets are $5 bucks across the board, and you can get a nice bag for all your tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFNJES/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A37XNGS4WH2DDR

If you are barely starting gearing up throw in, a wire stripper, a soldering iron with 21G solder, flux, a pump and solder remover.

Some time down the road, throw in an internet cable crimper some internet cable connectors and have the power of fixing any cable at any lan party.

Throw in a magnetic nut and bolt tray, spare 21g wire and your set for life.

If you want you can add, a small axe, flashlight, a pack of batteries, quarter bottle of vodka, and a magnesium rod. It will bring the cost to like $150 2014 dollars but this set will make you the most popular kid in the fallout and will guarantee unlimited bottle caps.

Hmm... I think my favorite thing that I've done so far was going out with my best friend who came up to my school. We got to hang out and go out to dinner with my roommate (her twin sister and my other bff), her mom, and grandma.

[Precision screwdriver set!] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPZ3J0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ET9F1H0BMZEE&coliid=II00LBUGANJOO) because I love to build and take apart :)

I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:

Tools

If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.

• Flush Cutters. Fantastic for snipping and trimming zip ties, and great for cutting filament. They're inexpensive at less than $5. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
• Digital Calipers. You'll use these alot. Will come useful in the construction of the printer as well. Can find a decent pair for $10-$20. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they sell some decent ones that always have a coupon.
  
• Bondhus Ball Hex Screwdrivers. I don't know people do it, but using those L shaped hex drivers are annoying and uncomfortable. Don't cheap out on these. Bondhus makes some of the best hex drivers in the business and are fairly inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/
  
• M3 Tap - I don't know how widespread it was, but a few people received frames where the holes were not tapped (or if they were, they were covered in powdercoat afterwards), and had screws snap inside of them. You don't want this to happen... happened to me and is a pain to fix. I didn't want to deal with customer support and wait for a new frame, so I tapped the holes myself. Even if you don't need the tap, it'll come useful for a lot of projects since a lot of stuff uses 3mm screws. https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Adjustable-T-Handle-Reversible-Threading/dp/B01M4J4GWL/
  
• 3mm hardware kit - Again, you'll likely need some extra 3mm hardware if you plan on modifying the printer or adding on to it. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/
  
  Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.
  
  The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.
  
  Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.
  
  Upgrades
  
  A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.
  
  
• The vibration dampers mentioned previously (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045) work damn well to eliminate a lot of sound. I've also seen people claim that putting the printer on a concrete paver block and then putting that block on rubber feet eliminates most of the sound as well. (http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/best-usd7-buck-improvement-you-can-make-t3051.html)
  
  
• After the vibration dampers, the hotend fan becomes the loudest thing about the printer. I ended up buying a 40mm Noctua fan and printing an adapter (https://grabcad.com/library/mk2_40mm_fan_duct-1) to mate it to the extruder assembly. Now the only thing I hear is linear bearing noise. Wiring in the noctua fan isn't plug and play though. I cut off the stock fan and crimped some dupont connectors on the leads and connected the wires that way. Soldering works too.
  
  
• I don't care what you do, but find a new solution for a spool holder. The one prusa includes is terrible. Easiest solution is to print or use a pvc pipe to connect the two spool holder brackets. I went another route and printed a spool holder that used 608 skate bearings to make the spool holder buttery smooth. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1832235
  
  
• The method to mount the y-axis bearing is not great. Print these out (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819779) and switch out the zip ties when you get a chance. No rush to do these... just something to do when you want to tinker. Look up the igus drylin bearings too... a lot swear by them.
  
  
• Also software. If you can swing the $150, I highly, highly, highly recommend simplify3d. Their slicing is second to none, and their support structures don't make a mess and require a ton of print cleanup.

My Name is Ian, or CMF Metalworks, and I am a full time Knife maker. I do carry everything pictured every day.


Item 1: UE Boom 2
https://www.amazon.com/Phantom-Wireless-Bluetooth-Waterproof-Shockproof/dp/B014M8ZO8S/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487348943&sr=1-2&keywords=ue+boom+2

Item 2:Sony a6000 camera
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Mirrorless-Digital-Camera-16-50mm/dp/B00I8BICB2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487348994&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+a6000

Item 3:Blue Loctite 242

Item 4:Leatherman Sidekick- Easily my most useful tool. https://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-Sidekick-Multi-Tool-Black-Sheath/dp/B0058EJ2ZM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349131&sr=8-3&keywords=leatherman+sidekick

Item 4:Spyderco Rubicon in S30v https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-C187CFP-Rubicon-Folding-3-04-Inch/dp/B00KQ493TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349175&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderco+rubicon

Item 5: Spyderco Nirvana with a custom Mokuti clip i made. http://www.bladehq.com/item--Spyderco-Rassenti-Nirvana-Integral--30367

Item 6: Ares tool kit, its okay for the price, but it has some bits i use a lot so it makes the cut. https://www.amazon.com/61-Piece-Security-Extension-70010-Resistant/dp/B0192FI1Q8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349385&sr=8-1&keywords=61-Piece+Security+Bit+Set+with+Magnetic+Extension+Bit+Holder%7C+ARES+70010%7C+Includes+Tamper+Resistant+Metric+Hex+and+Star+Bits%7C+Slotted%2C+Pozi%2C+Philips%2C+Square%2C+Spanner%2C+Metric+Hex+and+Star+Bits

Item 7: WIha Driver set. Best you can buy. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349443&sr=8-9&keywords=wiha+torx

Item 8: 10 weight nano oil

item 9:Krazy glue

Item 10:GO PRO hero 4 silver

Item 11: Wiha 65 piece tool kit. Its like a container of magic. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75965-Precision-Ratchet-65-Piece/dp/B00JQ753W8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1487349443&sr=8-14&keywords=wiha+torx

Item 12: Godspeedtactical Hanky Godspeedtactical.com

Item 13: Macbook pro Early 2016

Item 14:GDOK EX10 inlay version Midtech Balisong

Item 15: Maxpedition Backpack http://www.bladehq.com/item--Maxpedition-Falcon-III-Backpack--32877

Do you wrap them around something? And torching the kanthal will help if you find it to be particularly springy. Here is a coil wrapping calculator that will tell you how many wraps you need to reach your desired resistance based on your kanthal gauge and the size of whatever you are wrapping around.

I would suggest investing in a set of screwdrivers like these to wrap on. They are super cheap and wrapping with them is super easy.

1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
   https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
   
   
2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
   https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
   
   
3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Here's the shim kit
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
   
   
4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
   Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
   
   
5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.
   
   
6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
   
   
7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams
   
   
8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere
   
   
9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.
   
   
10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.
    
    Edit
    
    
11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.

If you're looking for a high quality triwing I really like this one from Moody Tools:
affiliate link - non-affiliate link


They also make really nice JIS (Japanese Standard like Phillips) drivers which I find are immensely better than standard Phillips drivers.


For gamebits / Nintendo security bits, I have this set and I really like it. They are made out of a reasonable quality stainless steel.
affiiate link -
non-affiliate link


Full disclosure: If you click on the affiliate link and buy the product I will get a small commission from Amazon to help pay for my childrens' education ;) I personally own the products I linked to.

If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer

Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire

Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery

I'd suggest this charger for $12

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&ref=plSrch

And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion

What torx head do AB sexbolt screws take? I know pivots are t10, but what is the latch and sexbolt screw head? ty

edit: can people recommend me some nicer drivers? Or will wiha be fine? like would this set be fine?: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=pd_cart_crc_cko_sbs_2_1/143-1871600-7110822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002C582AQ&pd_rd_r=47089c6f-5524-4aba-918b-d14decf66cf8&pd_rd_w=iIUwc&pd_rd_wg=J9IVc&pf_rd_p=735fc45d-5ed9-406a-92e0-8d28b9f18fe0&pf_rd_r=TSZ024WGPXYBF19WS1XA&refRID=TSZ024WGPXYBF19WS1XA&th=1

Wiha has some nice sets that will include pretty much everything you are likely to come across with electronics repairs. Everything else can be handled with the occasional use of a bit set with whatever holder is most comfortable in your hand. Here are some kits with good bit selections from iFixit and Harbor Freight for the more budget minded.

The wiha is nice, but he needs a blade. If his routine is anything like mine, the less to cart around the better! As an aside, if OP wants a great set of high quality tools for daily repair use I can't recommend the wiha brand enough. I'd stay away from a multi-bit though, I much prefer the precision afforded by these

Skip the ruby nozzle, it's only necessary if you are printing a lot of abrasive filaments like wood, magnetic, carbon fiber, etc. Get it when (if) you need it. The stock nozzle will print PLA and PETG for ages before requiring replacement.

Same goes for the smaller nozzle, again, unless you are planning on using it right away. Smaller nozzles are great for finer details, but will typically greatly reduce your print speed, especially on really low layer heights like 0.05mm. They also really require you to have your settings, extruder and Z-height dialed in, something you're not going to be ready for right away if you're new to 3D printing.

As for tools, what comes in the box will get you by (assuming you purchased a kit, not assembled). A pair of fine-tipped tweezers is also useful. Side-cutting pliers. Also, highly recommend a proper set of ball-end hex screwdrivers instead of those God-awful hex keys.

I bought a set at my local hardware store. They're the doitbest brand precision screwdrivers. http://www.amazon.com/5-Piece-Best-Precision-Screwdriver-SCREWDRIVER/dp/B000HE89Z2
They've been great for the past few years I've had them. The star versions of those aren't so hot though.. I've ruined 2 of the T5 drivers working on firearms and RC cars. The rest of them have stood up to some pretty serious abuse though.

I've had these before, but they are kind of small to hold onto when turning larger screws: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730634&sr=1-2&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver
They work fine though IME.

If you want to buy the best you can get, Klein tools makes a mighty fine set of screwdrivers. They're pretty expensive though. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-85614-Piece-Electronic-Screwdriver/dp/B0076RWZMQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730830&sr=1-37&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver

Oh man. Yeah if I dropped just a single capacitor I wouldn't even bother looking for it. Luckily they're cheap.

Definitely get a good screw driver. You won't regret it. This is the set I have and it has saved me from a bunch of annoying situations. Probably not the best kit you can get but it's comfortable to use and has a good variety of driver tips.

Have done exactly what you are asking.

I am typing this on the lowest end 9570 (refurbished Dell Outlet) with an upgraded SSD and 97whr battery.

These are the exact parts and where I got them:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EBK-6GTPY-Battery-Compatible-Dell-XPS-15-9560-9570-Precision-5520-M5520-Replacement-5XJ28-5041C-H5H20-5D91C-Laptop-6-Cell-11-4V-97Wh-12-Months-Warran/987434458

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QH5KW1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBX6TY

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGZEVHU

​

You will have to take out the HDD to put in the bigger battery. You may also need to change BIOS settings to get the best SSD performance.

​

You will need a special screw driver to open the case, use the biggest one that will fit and remember rigthty tightly lefty lucey. :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O

​

Look online for how to open the case. Don't forget the two Phillips in the middle under the magnetic plate.

​

Battery life is outstanding.

If you want a bit type, id recommend starting with this 23 Pc Husky ratcheting precision set which covers every computer/laptop need I've run into. Or this TEKTON Everybit set.

For individual type I recommend the TEKTON Brand. Here is a set that has the PH0-PH2 like you need and some other flat heads. Torx Here, Nut Drivers Here. Though you can filter the nut drivers into SAE/Metric or buy by individual need.

If you really need/want magnetic tips, sub that screwdriver set i sent with something like this Cause magnetic tips are handy. Another brand I highly recommend is Milwaukee for both insulated and non-insulated drivers

Do you have Prime? That helps a lot.

So, looking through my recent purchases...

• Boxer Briefs : if you normally wear boxers or briefs, these things can be a game changer
  
• Suspenders : belts are weird, if you think about it. These are a moer comfortable way to hold up your pants.
  
• Flushable moist wipes : better than dry toilet paper
  
• Set of jewler's/precision screwdrivers.
  
• cut resistant kitchen gloves
  
• Dehydrated soup veggies - great for making an inpromptu soup
  

Take a look at Pedro's tools. They are a little cheaper than Park, but are excellent tools. As /u/singlejeff said, get some basic stuff, but hit up your local co-op for the more expensive tools.

Here is a solid start:

Park Tool ST-3 I use this thing constantly, and Pedro's doesn't have a similar tool.

Pedro's Y Wrench Go ahead and get both the 4,5,6 and 2,2.5,3.

These three tools live in my apron. Absolute go-to tools.

Additionally, get an adjustable wrench(I love my Klein Tools wrench) a set of JIS Screwdrivers so you don't strip out your screw heads,

A good cable cutter

Some important chain tools are the Park CT-3.2 and also pick up the Park MLP 1.2 and CC-3.2(which imo is the absolute easies chain wear checker).

I would also suggest a L Hex wrench set you can pick em up cheaper at Lowes or whatever, but critical for getting stuck pedals off, speaking of which, a Pedal Wrench.

Finally a crank puller you really don't have to go expensive on this thing. I see em as disposable, because as soon as I see thread wear, I shit can em. I stripped out a vintage Stronglight crank and a C Record crankset using a worn out crank puller. No bueno.

All this shit will be expensive, but if bought over time, you will have a solid set of tools eventually. These are my favorite tools, I am sure others have their opinions.

I don't know if this ships to DK but the jeweler's screwdriver set will be something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G

Rubber screws dampen noise from vibrating fans and are awesome.

Get two Philips head screwdrivers, one #1 and one #2 sized. The #1 will be smaller. Flathead size doesn't matter as much, 1/8"-1/4" (3.175mm to 6.35mm) head width should do. Jeweler's kit will cover the rest.

Also look into some magnetic screw trays they are cheap and very useful for keeping things organized.

Its a bit of a stretch... but Heres my optics beacause EVERYONE should have one...

And Here is a mechanical of sorts. Its atoy to me, because I want to take apart old games and systems and turn them into other things... like lunchboxes and external hard drives. <3 So yeah, its a toy.

Thanks for the contest!!!

Flitz Metal Polish for the bore; Break Free CLP for the inside of the gun; and FrogLube paste as an exterior protectant.

On my Glocks I usually use one of THESE. (I throw the slotted tip and the jag away, and use only the brush with cotton patches (occasionally) wrapped around it.)

NOTHING CLEANS A PISTOL BARREL, ABOVE 22 CALIBER, FASTER OR BETTER - NOTHING!

I, also, keep a carbon steel, 'Squirrel Daddy' Miniature Glock Tool in the handle along with a thin-bladed, narrow profile screwdriver.

I carry; so I clean my Glock BEFORE I leave the range and won't holster a dirty pistol that hasn't also been function checked. I've been working on guns for 50 + years; and I use them hard. At one time, or another I've seen it all. These guys who like to brag and post crap about (almost) never cleaning their Glocks are just plain IGF idiots; and I'm sure that Smyrna would tell them so, too.

Neither is there any good or necessary reason, whatsoever, to leave the Loctite C5-A Anti-Seize Compound (the, 'gold-colored grease') inside your Glock after you've purchased it and brought it home. The C5-A is there to: (1) Protect a Glock from corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the slide and connector tab during PROLONGED distributor storage, and (2) guarantee that a new, possibly uncleaned, and unlubricated Glock pistol will go, 'Bang!' the first time it is used.

Once the Glock pistol is put into service and receives regular maintenance you no longer need the grease - Period.

Oh man, I had no clue the screws were different. Good heads up!
More stuff to research :)
Quick Amazon search turned up this set:
JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (New 3rd. Gen) (Japan Import)


And sounds like a bearing kit is easiest to put in now, will definitely add this upgrade to the list.

I have that set and I think I paid $20 back in ancient times. It is excellent and I use it all the time. That said, it is NOT for building a PC. So I both recomend getting it and recomend getting something else to go along with it to do your build.

I also own this set of Craftsman screwdrivers. I bought them in 1991, have used them constantly since, including yesterday while building some Ikea stuff. The handles are "old school" but...Im old so...

A pretty decent and inexpensive "modern" alternative is here. Bonus - color match for the small ones.

Seriously, I love the small ones so much I am buying another set since they are on sale. Tiny screwdrivers are one of those things you dont need until you really need and then there is no replacement.

EDIT: I sit corrected. I actually HAVE used these in a PC build - I used the largest of the phillips head to screw an SSD into a 2.5 to 3.5 mounting kit. SSD screws are tiny and you dont want to torque them too much or you can crack the case.

Regular bits are angled. Gunsmithing bits are square. If you use regular bits your screw heads will certainly show damage. You most certainly need proper fitting hollow ground bits to do the job right.

Field stripping an M1 Garand does not require any tools. But what you're attempting to do does.

My buddy asked me for my recommendation last year and I told him this: it's more important you have the correct sized bits vs high quality bits. If you can afford both, great! But most of us have a budget so go with a set with a large variety of sizes. Remember, both the width and depth are equally important. A bit that is too wide will open the ends of a head like an opposing set of parentheses. A bit that is too narrow round out the top like opposing lower-case r's.

He ended up buying:
Wheeler 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uwzdBbY5REFM0

And of course, you need to steady the rifle so be sure to have a cleaning rest. Mine is cheap but it works great:
Tipton Gun Butler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036FFQAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyzdBbR86YV6Z

It is a pretty standard size for RBA's that use Phillips head screws (Allen heads of different sizes are becoming more and more popular as well, but all RBA's that use Allen heads come with a matching wrench (except for Innokin's Axiom afaik)). Just get a precision screwdriver set (example), any decent set includes a couple of small Phillips head screwdrivers. As far as the Subtank RBA section goes, I use my old Subtank Mini exclusively with the RBA (V1 without the side screw). Easy to build and wick, a good starting point to try out rebuilding, and no more money spent on coil heads. My guess is it's the same for the RBA plus, but YMMV.

The necessities are:

• Precision screwdriver set (to use as mandrels)
  
• Organic Cotton Pads (easier to work with than ball cotton)
  
• Kanthal (in assorted gauges)
  
• Ohm Reader (EDIT--added per V's reminder. There may be a better sauce for these, though).
  
  I'd recommend 26, 28, and 0.8x0.1 ribbon to start. That gives you a lot of options for building. You'll notice the first two links are add-on items on Amazon, so you'll have to buy $25 worth of wire, wire cutters, tweezers, or just add it to some other amazon order you're making.

I've used these in the past with great success. You can hammer and glue them in as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492731155&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screw+extractor

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491577769&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41josrE03YL&ref=plSrch

Yeah I was going to go with the EK Vardar fans, I'm looking to keeps temps as low as possible mostly, but less sound would be nice as well. Would the EK Vardar 1450rpm pair well with a EK PE rad?

I own the ifixit set and have a ton of mileage on it, but I also purchased the Nanch Precision set for less and consider it a superior product, though both are good.

(not a product recommendation but just a note for people coming afterwards, if you can get this on sale, probably elsewhere than Amazon, it might be worth it)

I got this Xiaomi Wiha set and it's been disassembling multiple laptops fine :)

Save your money and keep the original, take it out, clean it up well and use a pin or needle to bend the pins back so they are all uniform. The 72 pin that came with the NES is higher quality than the replacements are. While your in there disable the 10NES lockout chip and almost every game will work the first time. There are several tutorials on how to do both of these on youtube or google. Additionally your going to want to clean up your dirty games before putting them in a clean 72 pin connector. Some buy a cheap bit that will eventually be lost but for about the same price can buy [this set from amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and work on most oldschool consoles / games. :)

I highly recommend the Wiha 77790 Ultra Driver Multi Tool. Be sure to read the comparison chart to understand the different bit combinations available. I use the Tradesman model.

If you need something a little smaller consider the Wiha 75093 16 Piece System 4 ESD Slotted, Phillips and Torx Micro Bit Set either on its own or in addition.

If you’re looking for a good set of precision drivers I recently acquired the Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics and am very pleased with them. If you’re willing to wait and run the risk of receiving a counterfeit product, you can also find this set (as I did) on Ali Express for a few less dollars.

FWIW I carried pocket knives on the NYC Subways for over 20 years without once attracting attention.

I finally got around to doing this as well. So far, it's worked rather well. Thank you so much for the suggestion!

Edit: I needed a tri-wing screwdriver. I kept seeing them for $4-5 USD, but then found this nice little kit on Amazon. Really happy with it, because I do a lot of work with electronics.

Nah, not going to find that in one kit unless you get Wiha's 50 piece master set.

What I've found is that buying drivers individually is often not much more expensive than buying sets, and may be cheaper if it avoids buying unneeded or duplicate drivers.

I myself have the basic drivers (PH, slotted, t10+ torx) wera and felo drivers, and use 3" bits for the more obscure stuff. I particularly like using this wera bit holding handle with 3" bits. Handles like a regular small screwdriver.

I usually buy my individual drivers from KCToolco, their search tools makes it easy to find all the different sizes you need. You can usually find them a bit cheaper on Amazon if you find all the part numbers elsewhere.

I bought this set of phillips bits, and have found them extremely useful for electronics work. Many modern electronics are assembled with screws that have PH2 heads, but are too narrow for a normal PH2 driver to fit. The set of bits I linked above includes some that are basically PH2 size but narrowed down. Really makes a big difference on preventing stripped heads.

Something like this is nice to have. http://www.amazon.com/Repair-Opening-Screwdriver-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00GYO7OT6/

To be honest, I just used a little flat head screw driver. Just be gentle.

I have a kit kind of like this one. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Think I picked up a generic one from the dollar store/walmart.

You want drivers that fit the screw. Improper fit will mess up the screw slot or lead to slippage. Hollow Ground is usually best or a Parallel grind, not a chisel point.

These Wheeler Kits are generally pretty good for what they are.

If you hate money you can look at Starrett, Wera, Wiha, PB Swiss..

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

I used to do the pen thing but it only works like half the time. I just bit the bullet and bought these . They are not to expensive and nice to have around if you ever want to open any sega / nintendo stuff

There's a user on Planet VB called RunnerPack. He does the permanent solder fix for displays and does a excellent job from my experience, and for fairly cheap too, $10/display unit if I remember correctly. Just hit him up a message over there and you'll be golden (or red, I should say :P).

Just so you know, you are going to have to open up the Virtual Boy yourself, so you'll need a screwdriver for the security bits (the 4.5mm ones in particular). You can find them on amazon for fairly cheap.

Edit: extra junk.

The only tools that I had available when I built my PC was a six-piece Stanley set. Luckily for me, building a PC doesn't require much more than a screwdriver. As such, the most useful and only tool for me when building my PC was a precision screwdriver.

Due to the fact that my PC is still very new, I have not yet experienced any need to maintain anything.

This TEKTON kits is a bit cheaper and has better case. Lifetime warranty but doesn't include the pry tools, those are super cheap though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPZ3J0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I've used for a good number of my TFs, and it covers almost anything. A pin punch is a good idea as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_befwDb2W9WP1E

Found this during a trip to Taipei. It's a cute little EDC set I keep in my pack that I thought some might find interesting. It's very thin and lightweight, while being good quality.

It was cheaper in Taiwan ($15 USD) but even at amazon price it's not bad I think.

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077336&sr=8-1&keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure

and

https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077395&sr=8-9&keywords=screwdriver+set+small

Here is an altnerative to the case:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484077470&sr=1-7&keywords=laptop+hard+drive

In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.

They do that you know.

You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.

Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.

When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade

What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.

Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.

You can watch like 6 videos and know how to build a computer. Once you know what fits where, it's like putting together legos. These screwdrivers make everything way easier too.

Recommend using This site to help you make your determination if you are paying the correct amount for a game, instead of looking on ebay. also I recommend you get One of these If you wanna keep going for the higher end stuff. Before you shell out the cash you may want to ask to open the cart up and see the board, then compare it to images online. shelling out $200 for Mega Man X3 or Castlevania Dracula X only to realize it is a reproduction would feel really shitty.

You got some solid titles. Do you have many retro stores in your area?

Don't know if they will last a lifetime, but these are awesome. A must have if you disassemble and tinker with knives frequently: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C582AQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How much can you afford to spend?
You can get a basic set for pretty cheap like this, or this to get you started and upgrade as you deem necessary.

It's going to end up costing you a lot more buying screwdrivers individually.

FWIW - the "Wera Kraftform Plus 334/6 Screwdriver Set with Rack and Lasertip, 6-Pieces" are awesome. I bought some for my wife around black Friday. I paid $23.81 - they are currently $24.25 which is the second lowest price I have ever seen. They are amazing.
link to product

Pentalobe drivers. Spudgers. Hell, half of ifixit's catalog.

The PTT is a little outside your budget but has literally everything he'll ever need. If you gotta keep to the budget, I'd get this and this.

Not an ifixit shill and they are certainly not the level best quality out there (but definitely better than your ebay or harbor freight gear) it's more about a convenient assortment of tools that will cover a wide variety of situations for a reasonable price.

I am a Wiha tool man myself, and my screwdriver sets alone have run me several hundred dollars, but I consider that worth it.

I had a really similar sequence of events happen on one of my earlier MacBooks (fan was noisy --> then ran at strangely low speeds, yet high CPU temps --> fan failure). In pretty short order (2-3 days) the fan stopped working entirely (fan speed dropped to 0, CPU temp went sky-high).

• Keep a close eye on your fan speed/CPU temp over the next few days because I anticipate that it WILL fail!
  
• WHEN the fan does finally fail (which I totally expect it will), shut down your computer ASAP as the CPU could fry itself without a properly functioning fan
  
• Before your fan fails, look into fixing it yourself. It's really a pretty simple fix.
  
  

1. http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2009+Fan/1338/1 (intructions)
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1373462284&sr=8-4&keywords=stanley+mini+screwdriver (tools; a must-have for any laptop DIYer)
   
3. http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Unibody-Model-No-A1278-MBP-13-Inch-Mid-2009-Unibody-Fan/IF160-017?utm_source=ifixit_guide&utm_medium=guide_intro&utm_content=required_items&utm_term=macbook_pro_13%22_unibody_mid_2009 (parts)
   
   Note: I made the assumption that you have a 13" MBP, which may more may not be correct. Obviously the fan can probably be found for a lot cheaper somewhere else, but if you're at all nervous about compatibility/ordering the wrong part, ifixit.com has some pretty great guides and descent replacement parts. PM me if you have any questions (I've done a lot of MacBook/MacBook Pro micro repairs on my machines over the past 7 years)

you could try a screw extractor. I am not familiar with the spyderco deleca 4 knife, but based on googling reviews it seems like it would withstand a fair amount of pressure.
Try something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/58-0670-6-Piece-Extractor-Reversible-Driver/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342137683&sr=8-2&keywords=screw+extractor+set

Dude I went for these http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380913239&sr=8-1&keywords=nintendo+bit

Under ten bucks and they work perfectly and are very solid!

Here is my mini-review of the light. I got the light from Amazon for ~19$ with free shipping. The light comes with a AA battery and lanyard. I ditched the lanyard. The light also comes with an attached pocket clip (more on this later).

This light is as bright as my 3xAAA Costco TechLite Lumen Master and much smaller. To access the modes you click the light once to turn it on, then tap the cap to cycle through the Hi-Low-Strobe modes. You can also do this by quickly turning the light on and off.

Originally I got this light for one purpose.. to use it in the Fenix Headband system ala Nutnfancy. I thought I would save some money by not having to spend 40$ on the Quark Mini AA. I was wrong. The first problem was the pocket clip. It was getting in the way of the headband's flashlight holder. The clip is screwed in by triangle screws. To get the clip off I had to buy the triangle screwdriver from Amazon. Then afterwards I found out even with the pocket clip off this flashlight is too thick for the Fenix Headband (if you take the pocket clip off there are 2 holes where the screws fit that expose the innards because the flashlight as a whole did not fit the Fenix Headband I have the clip back on I might look in to some small "O" ring for more water resistance). Even though it will not be useable for what I originally intended. I still like the light enough to use it as my EDC light.

TLDR: This light will not work in a Fenix Headband, otherwise great EDC.

I have liked this Tekton 27 piece set for a while. I mostly like it because it comes with both size pentalobe bits, if you're doing any apple repair stuff. It comes as part of their 135 piece set too, which I think is a good deal. Reach isn't very long is the only real downside.

Not sure of the size you need, but here is a set of triangle hand drivers on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS

Nanch tools on amazon have been awesome for me. Even hold on up to Spydercos loctite

NANCH Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Bits for all Electronics Devices,23-piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3jxIybS1PB0TZ

My laptop bag:

• 5 1m Cat5e cables
  
• 2 9m flat cat5e cables
  
• 1 1m Twinax (Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU1M)
  
• 1 5m Twinax (Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU5M)
  
• Fiber Loopback Plug Kit 1 2 3
  
• Non-Duplexed OM3 50/125 5m patch (Non duplexed lets you adjust for bad or crossed fibers in a hurry)
  
• USB stick with some tools on it
  
• Streamlight 88052 ProTac (can steal power from any USB)
  
• Best Screwdrivers on earth.
  
• Gerber Diesel Multitool
  
• 2x USB serial adapters
  
• 2x cisco specced Serial/Console cables
  
• 1x passthrough serial cable (Some companies gotta be smart asses...)
  
• 1x rollover/crossover serial cable (see above...)
  
• A spool of velcro
  
• Highly specced (i7/1tb ssd/32gb ram) Dell Rugged 14 inch laptop, plus power supply, and extension battery.
  
• USB chargers
  
• XD-S 45
  
• General Girl stuff. (AKA, if you don't know about it, you're better off not askin'.)
  
• (ETA) My keychain carries a 256gb corsair survivor stealth memory stick. Handy.
  
  It's pretty clear I primarily work in server rooms and datacenters :P

I use this one and it works perfectly fine for knife servicing (for me).

For anyone that’s interested buy this one


I actually own both of these sets and I almost never use that cheap plastic driver anymore. Plus the one I linked the driver itself extends and it has longer bits so having both bit sets is still useful if you already have the other set. The driver in the one I linked is worth the price alone.

> I was thinking of buying an eye glass repair kit but wasn't sure it would fit. I was thinking perhaps you guys knew of where to get one on line that would work for sure.

I use something similar to this but it came with a bit more and I got it at Lowes, but that's just to give you an idea.

edit

Actually I have something EXACTLY like this

ProTip: A set of Bondhus hex drivers changed my life. I haven't ruined a printer screw in months.

These wrenches are the best there is:

Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132CGTW

And drivers:

Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI

If anyone's looking for a nice screwdriver sets that includes a tri-wing, I highly recommend this product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O

You can save yourself future headache and buy something like this. They're available from other sources. I think I paid $6 at Harbor Freight for mine.

I've got my notes on recommended tools & first-aid kit here. Proper tools for swapping nozzles are important to avoid inadvertent damage (although it's not a scary process).

• You do not need a spatula and half the stuff sold in "3D printing starter kits".
  
• You do not need any of the exotic bed prep stuff.
  
• Bondhus or equivalent ball drivers are very useful. You really only need the 2.5mm. Makes removing and reassembling parts much easier.
  
  Which sock & which nozzles? The TriangleLab nozzles are good. The others are OK in a pinch, but I've seen reports of them shearing off at high temps.
  
  Read up on clearing jams. The 1st one can be scary, but they're no big deal if you're prepared.
  
  Have fun with it!
  

28g is good to start with. You'll also need something to wrap your coils on. These screwdrivers are a popular choice. You can also use the little blue screwdriver that will come with your magma. SteamEngine is your friend for coil wrapping.

Pro tip: throw out the pre-made wick and coils that come with your RDA, because they're crap. Keep the extra screws, O - rings and screwdriver, just in case.

I got these ones and they are great. They have from 1 - 3mm drill bits and then two Phillips ones for screwing your posts down.
Nice rubberised grips that help you keep tight hold. I'm ashamed to say I saw them on a rip video.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV

Nanch Small Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Screwdriver Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Laptop,Smartphone,iPhone,Jewelry and other Small Electronics. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RTsIDbWN8V2ZF shortly after finishing I went on Amazon and bought this set. Way better than those red screwdrivers!

Have one of those sets in our shop.

We also have 2 of these sets linked below as well. I have been very pleased with them. If you ever need more in the future, which you will.

Wheeler 89-Piece Deluxe Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CgGXBbQQ0FYA4

Nanch Precision Small Screwdriver Set with 22 Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Computer,Smartphone,iPhone,Game Console and other Electronics Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_snfPAb4GJZJYE

I love this set. I have 2.

something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Screwdriver-Electronic-McDonalds-Disassemble/dp/B07H3S81D4

​

if so, try googling first, and to really get help, you need to add a picture.

​

EDIT: here's another one....

https://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKTR4-Screwdriver-Replacement/dp/B004IUEHYS

for some home diy i would say Xiaomi Wiha screwdriver set is surprisingly good https://www.amazon.com/Xiaomi-Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Electronics/dp/B07FZ5DSWC

Is this ok? I really can’t tell good quality tools from cheap tools so idk.

I carry a nanch precision screwdriver set in my backpack at all times. Other people around me always go to me first whenever they need a screwdriver or some tools to borrow. Its a good feeling

https://smile.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone-Electronics/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NK1WCEVGKTZW&keywords=nanch+small+precision+screwdriver+set&qid=1566115135&s=gateway&sprefix=nanch%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3

Edit: added URL

Interesting that looks exactly like this one but... Asus.

This is my favorite electronics screwdriver set. Worth the small investment for a lifetime of being able to open almost anything.

https://www.amazon.com/JACKLY-Professional-Screwdriver-Extension-Maintenance/dp/B005JRTAYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481400956&sr=8-1&keywords=jackly

I have these, I'm not sure why they're listed at $20 bucks now since I bought them for $8 last year. I got these because I have a universal screwdriver handle that I thought they would fit into. Of course, they don't so I have to grab the end with pliers sometimes when I'm getting a screw in or out. They're high-quality and work fine. If I was buying again today, I'd probably take a chance on these. They're cheap and have an integrated handle.

These are awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/ref=lp_2586173011_1_5?srs=2586173011&ie=UTF8&qid=1519931637&sr=8-5

These are great Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Wiha 26199 screwdriver set is amazing. It's not very much money and I use it all the time.

Amazon link

I got these ones from amazon.ca/.com

http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398202464&sr=8-2&keywords=Nintendo+security+tool

work like a beaut

Here is the screen you need ($53). Here is a precision screwdriver set you can use ($4). Here is video showing you how to fix it.

Do it yourself, and save $100 or so.

Yet another recommend for Wiha. I prefer their precision drivers like these.

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
***
This bot is supported by the referral link above. If you wish to not use a referral link, you may use this link instead.

You'll want some JIS screwdrivers. There's lot of "phillips" screws on those bikes, but if you try and use your trusty old phillips driver on them, you'll strip them out in a heartbeat.

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

Hey, just wanted to add an update to this in case anyone else runs into the same problem I have. I was almost to the point where I was going to take a drill to the chromebook! :O

Luckily I found Moody Tools Precision Screw Extractor on Amazon.

They worked like a charm and the stripped screws were out in just a few minutes!

Ok depends on they type of Barrel. If it is is a standard german barrel with screws protruding I would recommend this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052XQYVO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
It is very good at grabbing the sides of exposed screws.

If the screw is flush with the service you might have luck with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCT3W0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you have to be able to put a lot of pressure on the screw head so make sure it is resting level on the desk.

A good set of small screwdrivers, some sort of wire cutters, cotton, and a good pair of tweezers (preferably with ceramic tips)

This and my hands make a pretty solid wrapping kit

Looking at your screwdriver, it doesn't appear to have a hardened tip. A high-quality, hardened tip electronics screwdriver will take care of it. Here's an example.

actually i was really curious about this so i googled/amazoned some more:

http://www.amazon.com/Screwpop-SP2BP-Black-Mutli-Tool/dp/B006GER8S6/ref=sr_1_42?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449722623&sr=1-42&keywords=pocket+screwdriver

http://www.amazon.com/SE-7525TS-10-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002Q836V4/ref=sr_1_22?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449722523&sr=1-22&keywords=pocket+screwdriver

that one has what youre looking for but its not a 1/4" hex so itll be a pain to find replacements (those bits look kinda cheapy)

http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-Office-Stanley-Screwdriver-66-344-2/dp/B00ZPSO8GE/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449722523&sr=1-3&keywords=pocket+screwdriver

That one is a 5mm bit, close to 1/4" but not quite (1/4" is 5.5mm)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O?psc=1

your best bet is that one with a box of #2 phillips/slotted from home depot or amazon...

Overkill for just a T430, but I can highly recommend this kit for laptop work. I refurbish laptops and this is the kit I use and it's quality.

Sure, it's this set: Moody Tools 58-0670 6-Piece Slot/Phil/Screw Extractor Combo Reversible Driver Set. I only ended up needing the driver, but I am sure the extractors will come in handy at some point.

Check out some of these videos:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=build+your+first+coil



I order my wire on Amazon, and its like $8 for 100ft of your choice in gauges, $12 or so for a bag of Japanese Organic Cotton, maybe another $15-$20 for wire cutters/tweezers, and $18 for a Coil Master jig if you want to use them. Oh, and don't forget anything your atty might need like a Phillips screwdriver (though even though they're crappy, pretty much every atty comes with a tool for it). All in all you're probably looking at around $40 up front, but you'll have about a years supply of cotton at least, and even rebuilding a lot to test things enough wire to last a couple months or so.



Here's some of the stuff you'll want to look for (don't have to use these ones specifically of course):

https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Kanthal-Resistance-Gauge-Lengths/dp/B00MW4O0WG/

https://www.amazon.com/Koh-Gen-Do-Organic-Cotton/dp/B00NU3H3KE/

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B017ODDPNO

https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-InnoVaper-Precision-Ceramic-Tweezers/dp/B00TI6M3WK

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV

it doesn't help that the standard flat head or phillips is designed to strip the shit out of it, that's why I got this

Sounds like you're going to want to order up a set of gamebit screw drivers, so you can open her up and see what's wrong. I'm willing to bet you have a capacitor that has gone bad, and I'm willing to bet it is the big one. I'm talking about the 25v 1000uf one.

Image - http://imgur.com/u3ETVe8

In this picture, it is the largest one in the bottom left corner of this image (I have placed a red circle around it)

It may also be the fuse which runs across the rectangular section that is cut out of the bottom left of the board. (I have placed a red oval around it)

PS. Here is a link to the very gamebit screwdriver set that I own. They both fit their respective screws perfectly, and at 6.99 you really can't go wrong - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000F78NBQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1BV25384W378SQK7H9H0

I have these:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-4&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools

and

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Hammer-Punch-Plastic-Case/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-5&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools

When it comes to getting screw bits (if you're piecing together a set) it's important to make sure you get hollow grind bits as not to damage the screw heads.

Also, while your replacements won't have the same heads likely, shimano "phillips" screws are actually JIS, in the event you weren't aware.

http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

Something like that will help prevent them from stripping.

This set has covered me really well for everything so far.

Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FZ5DSWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_58BVDbAVXE9PX

Wera Screwdriver Set - Nice screwdrivers, don't often see these on sale.

Here is a hand set that way you don't have to buy a drill.

Just a screwdriver probably. I have this set and it works nicely

https://www.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone-Electronics/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550812825&sr=8-4&keywords=screwdriver%2Bset%2Belectronic&th=1

This is what I finally went with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used one of those websites that filters out all the amazon reviews from incentivized users and such. I literally just ordered it so I can report back if you'd like once I actually receive the product.

I don't have a specific set to recommend, but one thing to keep in mind is 90+% of gun screws are flatheads, and that can be an under represented form in generic screwdriver kits.

Like I said before, it's very important that the blade fit tightly in the screw.

Take a look at THIS set (zoom in on the picture). It is an expensive set, but notice that it has a LOT of flatheads and almost no hex or phillips bits...that's the main difference in a "gunsmith" set and a generic screwdriver set.

Study ohm's law and battery safety. If used improperly, mech mods can become a pipebomb.

That being said, here's a list of stuff you should get.

• stingray x clone
  
  
• RBA suggestions:
  
  
• mephisto v2 (clone)
  
  
• mutation x v2 (authentic)
  
  
• lancia clone (clone)
  
  
• billow RTA (authentic)
  
  
• samsung 25r x2
  
  
• nitecore d2
  
  
• ohm meter
  
  
• kanthal:
  
  
• 26ga kanthal
  
  
• 24ga kanthal
  
  
• japanese cotton pads
  
  
• precision screwdriver set
  
  
• ceramic tweezers

Here's the set. It looks nice, might be time for an upgrade myself!

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417819439&sr=8-1&keywords=wiha+36291

Just above your price range. Really nice though.

I'm going through the same journey right now. Here are a few of the things I picked up. The first 3 are the actual soldering equipment/materials you will need. The fourth is a good electronic screwdriver set and tweezers (not required but useful).

https://smile.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520432768&sr=8-4&keywords=Weller

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WN1DMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777LMVTT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ZSK57K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to piggy back: The Stanley Precision Screwdriver Set for wrapping the coils. amazon has them and target sells them as well if you don't want to order them.

This Tekton set is my favorite and it's not too expensive and should cover at least all of your driver bit needs.

So, $35 for that one, or you can get this for 1/10th the price.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV

Because the handles are plastic you can even heat up a pin and set it into the handle to hold your wire better while you wrap.

I use these. I got them at a local hardware store for $6. I like them because I can grip against the wire when I wrap and can pinch the coil against the screwdriver.

I used a 2mm screwdriver. I have a set like this one.

If you buy a new screwdriver set, I recommend this one (American link, since I'm Canadian). It has everything that I've needed so far, plus more.

> Instead of buying a single 00, id recommend the whole iFixit screwdriver kit. $30.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/

135 piece TEKTON set with more than double the bits and almost the same price.

https://smile.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Precision-Magnetic-Opening-Tweezer/dp/B019ZSK57K

$9 kit includes two triwing bits and pry tools.

as far as dismantling goes, the switch seems to be the easiest one in recent time.

thank you! :D

http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Nintendo-Security-Screwdriver-Gamecube-SNES/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2K2AJBJYXTUMV&coliid=I1PC7QGP4WVNDC

I bet THIS would help.

I bought these hoping they would do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421534510&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41PADNxaDfL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Just so you guys know, this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) does NOT work. Someone suggested it in a thread for me; even the smallest screwdriver is too big.

You're right about the Kidney Puncher kit, but I'm not sure if OP knows. The Kidney Puncher kit comes with those screws as HEX screws, NOT the triangle screws, so it's much easier to find better tools to use on it. The triangle screws are the Mutation X v2's Achilles Heel, and I look forward to finally buying the Kidney Puncher kit.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002X29G/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1#

I wrap on the smallest one.

They're usually called "precision screwdrivers." Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV

Get an extractor kit, something like this or this.

a good screwdriver set intended to fit firearms fasteners saves loads of damage to fasteners
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527255716&sr=8-5&keywords=gunsmithing+tools

Use left twist drill bits. If you're lucky they'll bite in and twist the screw out. Get JIS screwdrivers, strip less screws.

We buy the techs these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26199-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B000NZ5QG0/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1480694593&sr=8-12&keywords=wiha+screwdriver

In a couple set variations - also one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-151NAS-Original-Driver-Yellow/dp/B004VJY0ZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480694651&sr=8-1&keywords=megapro+screwdriver

Also a USB 3.0 portable drive, usb drive adapters, and some thumb drives

Everything else they fill their own bag with from the office supply. Ethernet cables, CAT6 ends, velcro, etc

We have a Brady Labeler and various other tools they can take as needed for site work as well.

I've used the ifixit kits and have been really underwhelmed personally.

I bought this kit on amazon when I was taking apart my laptop a couple years ago because I needed a torx screwdriver. Since then it's served me well for watercooling.

Wiha 26194 Screwdriver Set. Highly recommended.

My buddy has this set its kinda pricy but its worth it, i use his all the time to work on my 500

It's an old Jap bike. So you are going to actually need a JIS screwdriver to get it apart without doing damage to anything. Most hardware stores won't know what the f you are talking about. Might need to overnight one from amazon if you are serious about getting into it. This is the set you will need, you will also need a very small and high quality flathead.

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472699179&sr=8-1&keywords=jis+screwdriver

Here's the carb.
http://imgur.com/mD1mTzT

If my comment wasnt clear enough, something like this will help a lot.

Stanley 66-039 6-Piece Jewelers Precision Screwdriver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X29G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Knb.BbBS35GR0

After trying the Home Depot Husky brand, I bit the bullet and bought a Wiha set. The difference is huge.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ

About $25 depending on price fluctuation.

HERE
Please use the search function. Found this in 2 min. Not 4$ btw :D

aw man.. yeah it's really tough to extract stripped screws.. don't give up just yet though, there are extraction kits out there, even for tiny screws like this or this

Get these. They're made by Wiha, arguably the best manufacturer of Torx drivers, and it includes a T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, & T15. That set should cover you for just about every knife out there, though I think some manufactures use T12 screws some times, so be wary of that.

Found this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUEHYS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001F3FUBK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1R80WTBY18X5ABCZH8JT

not sure if any of em will fit though.

You'll need to use something like this. http://screwremover.com/Pages/grabitMicro.php You may want to measure the screw to see if these are small enough.

EDIT: Amazon has another company if you search for "grabit micro" The additional photos showed a person who had to remove stripped screws from an Apple notebook/cellphone. http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_6

I really dig this set. The handle is solid and extends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O/

I'd give this one a shot. https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=MOODY+screw+extractor&qid=1555039644&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

That's how I removed the motherboard of my MBP. I stripped the heads of at least 6 motherboard screws, pretty much ground them to a cone with my regular phillips drivers. These ones took a bit of patience and finger skills, but got everything out.

Snap on is a ripoff for 99.9% of the stuff they sell.

$175 for a 7 piece Snap-On screwdriver set

OR

$30 for a 17 piece Craftsman screwdriver set

Thanks for the suggestion, but I was already looking at this.

I know I'm not adding much in the way of telling you what to use (mostly because I feel like the other replies have done a stellar job at doing just that), but when you do go to look for a set of screwdrivers to build with, this is what most people use:

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV