Reddit mentions: The best power distribution units

If you have only a very small number of motorized blinds (I'd say four or less), then Hunter Douglas provides good options to wire them up. You can either install battery packs that need to be serviced every few months, or you can plug in a small power supply. Each of the power supplies can drive up to two blinds. But the extension wires that come with it cannot be longer than about 15ft, and they are not rated for in-wall installation. So, you'll have to deal with them probably being visible.

If you have lots of blinds, the wires look ugly, and you really don't want to take up a gazillion outlets. We have dual stacked blinds (mesh & black-out) in a few places. There clearly aren't enough power outlets to handle that.

Hunter Douglas for better or for worse runs their blinds on 18V -- and their tech support claims that the blinds are pretty sensitive to voltage fluctuations. This has a couple of awkward consequences. 18V power supplies are really unusual. Laptop power supplies would be perfect, but they are all 19V, which according to Hunter Douglas is not acceptable. And other common voltages are 12V or 15V, which are both noticeably too little.

Furthermore, the blinds have relatively high peak currents. Hunter Douglas told me to roughly assume that each blind can require up to about 10W. Took me forever to find a place that sells an 18V/180W power supply, as Hunter Douglas doesn't offer any solution themselves.

Of course, that's the raw circuit board only. You still need an enclosure. I went with a 12V enclosure and modded it. The enclosure is a great size, and you can even reuse the metal shield for the power supply, if you are careful. It also conveniently already comes with all the fuses that you'll need anyway. So, that saves you quite some work. But you do need some tinkering experience to swap out the circuit boards. You probably also need to order a couple of Molex connectors and you'll need to do some crimping and some soldering.

The next problem that you'll run into is that the enclosure needs a cooling fan, but as far as I can tell it is impossible to find 18V fans. I ended up using an ATTiny85 and a MOSFET to PWM the 18V so that I could safely drive the existing fan (make sure to configure the micro-controller for FastPWM, or you'll have to deal with an ugly humming noise!). And while at it, I also added a temperature sensor, so the fan only turns on, when needed. You also need a small DC-DC converter to power the microcontroller. And if you don't already have a way to program Atmel chips, you'll need to buy a programmer. EBay has lots of cheap options, too. All of this definitely takes some amount of tinkering skills that not everybody will have, though.

Overall, building a proper power supply and distribution box cost me just over $200 in parts. Not too bad. But the amount of time spent getting it to work was ridiculous. Especially if you add up all the time researching which parts I needed to buy in the first place. I really don't understand why Hunter Douglas couldn't sell ready-made power supplies for installing multiple PowerView blinds. Even if they charged $500 for the ready-made box, that wouldn't be entirely unreasonable -- and that would be a huge mark up and make them quite some profits. In bulk, each supply should cost less than $100 to manufacture.

The next problem is finding appropriate cables. At those low voltages, currents are going to be high, and if you have anything more than trivially short runs, you'll encounter significant voltage drops. Since Hunter Douglas said that sticking as close as possible to 18V is crucial, you'll inevitably have to install beefier wires. Hunter Douglas recommends 14AWG for powering up to two blinds, or 16AWG when powering a single blind. I had good luck with buying Monoprice in-wall speaker cable for this purpose. Get the four-conductor version to minimize the number of cables that you need to string.

Ideally, you want to avoid splicing the cables. And in many cases, if you plan carefully, you'll be able to do that just fine. But sometimes, splices are simply unavoidable (for instance, when joining 16AWG cables to an 14AWG cable). I find WAGO connectors work really well for this purpose; unlike wirenuts, they can be used both with and without ferrules. And they work well for stranded wires, where wirenuts sometimes fail.

The blinds have barrel connectors, and Hunter Douglas suggests buying plugs with screw connectors. That is a good suggestion in principle, but I find it is impossible to securely fasten the speaker cables in the screw connectors, unless you use ferrules. And that means, you'll also need to buy a crimping tool. And for good measure, you should probably shrink wrap the entire contraption afterwards. High currents means you want secure connections.

Ideally, you should run all the cables inside the walls. But that's not always possible. If you can't, then you'll need to staple them instead. Make sure to use the right staples. I asked my electrician to help in order to meet my schedule; in hindsight, that didn't work out so well. He sent me his apprentice, who promptly proceeded to run each and every staple straight through the cable. Ouch. We had to redo all the wiring.

Now, my next project is thinking of a solution to hide the Hunter Douglas remote inside of a Decora wall switch. The remote is OK, but it looks a little cheesy when wall-mounted. As I said before, PowerView blinds are fine in principle and they are probably better than most competing products, but they do feel a little unfinished at this time. When they do work though, they are really convenient.

So starting from the ground up.

APC PDUs into two seperate circuits.

The cisco switch is the only device without redundant power. But again, it's only running IPMI which I can't make redudant anyway.

The 4 servers, 2 switches, and qnap are both each plugged into both PDUs.

I set up both Nutanix Clusters (3 node, 1 node). All the VMS on my 3 node are snapshotted and replicated to the 1 node cluster daily for 30 days and monthly for 72 months. Nutanix does not offer a way to export their VMS. No 3-2-1 rule for them.

I shut down a test VM on 3 node cluster and switched to the other 1 node cluster I was doing their data protection on. Hit restore and the vm came right back up on this 1 node cluster. pretty happy with that.

The VMS themselves back up their data daily to the QNAP using emcopy.exe. Qnap has backup software, I just haven't had time to get into it.

These clusters have been up and running for about 2 months. I finally copied all of the old data off the old servers and got them unplugged last night. That was a great feeling.

I am currently running 25 VMs (+3 controller vms). personal, friends, media, mysql, mssql, nginx, mongo, redis, domain controllers, dns, etc all adds up pretty quick. I am a developer by trade, so I have a lot of expermination and code all over the place.

Once pleasant suprise is that since most of my VMs are a clone and I am running the data dedupe, I am getting ~20:1 effeciency. I am only using around 2.5% of my logical data storage.

I refuse to do the exact math, but I am well over $8k into this.

So lets go back to my goals

no single point of failure.

Any cable can pulled and nothing turns off.

If any piece of hardware fails, all my vms continue running.



faster speed.

Nutanix has some voodoo. The VMs disk benchmark is faster than my NVME desktop.

Network copying gets 600mbps+ tends to slow down on transfers of serveral gbs. Needs to investigate more.



some sorta backup.

doing snap shots to secondary cluster.

nutanix allows file level restore from previous snapshots.

data copied to nas daily.

would like actual file level back up to nas eventually.

Since someone will ask. I am running between 4-5 amps on each APC.

Problems I have encountered:

Nutanix does not show the network cards in their web interface. They show up fine in the CLI?

2 Ram sticks were returning ECC errors. Used servers, this is a risk. Monitor your IMPI people!

Watchguard does not technically support Nutanix. So the manager shows a lot of warnings. Support said they are just warnings.

I somehow crashed a nutanix install on the satadom. Was able to get it re installed relatively quickly. requires a live cd to image the disk. I bought a 5th satadom to just have on hand.

No way to monitor the disk SMART info from nutanix that I have found yet.

Hardware List;

2x APC7900

https://www.amazon.com/APC-AP7900-Switched-Surge-Protector/dp/B0000AAAYH

​

Cisco SG110-24

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDNHKQ4

​

2x QUANTA LB6M 24-PORT 10GBE SFP+

https://www.unixplus.com/products/quanta-lb6m-24-port-10gbe-sfp-4x-1gbe-l2-l3-switch

​

4x SUPERMICRO 1U X9DRI-LN4F+ SERVER

Dual E5-2650 V2, 128gb Ram (8x16gb)

https://unixsurplus.com/collections/1u-servers/products/supermicro-1u-x9drw-3ln4f-dual-intel-xeon-e5-2670-octo-core-2-6ghz-1u-server

​

4x Intel X520-DA2 10Gbps SFP+

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106044

​

8x WD Blue 1tb SSD

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX

​

4x 16gb SATADOM

https://www.amazon.com/Supermicro-SSD-DM016-PHI-16GB-SATADOM/dp/B00NGBW5GM/

​

6x WD RE 2tb spinny drives (Nutanix 3 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)

2x WD RE 4tb spinny drives (Nutanix 1 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)

​

QNAP TS-432XU-RP-2G-US

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWC85JH/

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4x WD 6tb Red Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Red-Hard-Drive/dp/B07B1HX5KN/

I have an APC 1500 UPS.

APC Smart-UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup with Pure Sine Wave Output Rack-Mount/Tower (SMC1500-2U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT2KV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ie38BbXJYPAM3

I got it from dell for less than that because I had a bunch of rewards points from ordering stuff through dell business credit.

I have it mounted on the bottom of my rack because it’s super heavy.

My devices are not plugged into the UPS. They’re plugged into PDU’s which go into the UPS.

I’m using two of these.

StarTech.com Rackmount PDU with 8 Outlets with Surge Protection - 19in Power Distribution Unit - 1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035PS5AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4f38BbNGK7QE4

There are 0u ones that mount on the side of the rack as well. They’re more expensive. Those are the least expensive new PDU’s you’ll find.

A few of my customers at work have this UPS.

CyberPower OR500LCDRM1U Smart App LCD UPS System, 500VA/300W, 6 Outlets, AVR, 1U Rackmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJJN60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3i38BbR8SWEXS

It’s worked pretty well. It doesn’t have the ability to connect via the network or do any outage management stuff without being directly plugged in via usb. You can purchase an additional card for that. The APC is more advanced and has higher output, but higher cost.

The cyberpower does not have replaceable batteries, which are consumables and will need replaced every few years.

These smaller ones typically power a router, network switch, access point, and perhaps a small office nas device like a netgear readynas 3138.

At work we use these or bigger.

APC SMT2200RM2U 2200VA RM 2U LCD 120V Smart-UPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F09D0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bl38Bb6QQM1W4

They’re super nice. Management card is additional. These require 20 amp circuits and receptacles or higher. You can use the software (webpage) to power cycle a group of outlets. Pretty neat stuff. But you do pay for the neat stuff.

Ahh, lighting control. Amazing results, pain in the ass to get there...

As the others have said, DMX can help you control your lights. Simple DMX controls and programs are fairly simple to do using a controller, like an obey10. Wash lighting, simple programs for slow songs, etc., these are all awesome to do, and give the night that much more appeal. But, there's more work to be done. Addressing your lights, wiring up the DMX (or spending more on wireless dmx) creating programs, etc.

If you want some control but this seems daunting, get something like this to control lighting on/off (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) as a start. Great for cheap lasers, moonflowers, etc.

Obey10 is a good starter controller if you have more than par cans to wire up. If all you have are pars, then an obey 4 is suffcient.

If you really wanna go all out, get an OpenDMX USB controller, and download QLC+, which is open source. This is controller is a couple hundred, but allows you to do full programming in QLC+. This is the most complex you'll wanna go for a mobile rig, I would think. With this, you can create programs, then control them from a lighting laptop, or even setup TouchOSC and control it remotely with your phone... all sorts of cool, but time-consuming things.

You can get as complicated as you'd like when it comes to lighting... If your clients like what you're doing, keep doing it. If you want to step it up in looks, but keep it simple, do your parcans with a simple Obey4 and control them only, then put the rest on sound active with a simple power-switcher...

My 2 cents. Fully-programmed lights make it awesome, but you'll suffer at setup time...

By satellites I'm referring to dish satellites that you may want to mount on the exterior of the house for any cable service you want such as DirecTV and similar providers. Here's a picture.

If you wish to have the ability to hot swap the Internet feed to any room at any time, all you need to do is find the coax cable that currently runs into the house. From there, you extend that cable with this coupler only if the cable doesn't reach your preferred central point, and then that goes to the central point. So then all the coaxial cables are heading to the central point, you should always label regardless of how much you think you memorize where each cable heads to. Now you do the same thing, get the coaxial with the ISP feed, put a coupler on it and pick the corresponding coaxial cable the modem will be in and attach it to the coupler. Like I mentioned before, I would recomneed having the modem sit in the central point. It'll have the same outcome as if you were putting it in a room but this just ensures all your equipment is one place and prevents you running longer cables from one point to another because the modem is in one room and the central point is another.

Now for the ethernet wiring, one hole slightly bigger the size of a golf ball should do for coaxial and ethernet. This is an example of a good install. All the cabling goes to one location in the house, the cables are securely punched down to a patch panel which the patch panel is securely mounted on a wall rack. Here's some items that will get you a clean and professional look while not breaking the bank:

• Wall mountable 6u rack
  
• 24-port Cat6 patch panel
  
• Power distribution - A good old surge protector will do the trick, this just gives a clean look and is more reliable.
  
• 24 port ethernet switch - This is to activate all the ethernet ports throughout the house.

If possible, you should try to run your S9s on 240V. You should be able to run all 4 S9s on one 30A 240V circuit. Connect them to the circuit via a PDU like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A

Ambient intake air temps can safely be up to around 100F. I like to keep them below 95F.

I also like to keep Chip temps below 85C, preferably below 78C.

The most important part of Antminer ventilation design is air replacement (not AC). You need to have about the same amount of fresh air (filtered preferably) going into the front of your miners as is being exhausted out. A good ballpark rule of thumb is 200CFM per Antminer in AND out. You will need intake fans AND exhaust fans.

You can read-up on the factory specs and recommended ambient/PCB/chip temps in the various Antminer user guides available at https://service.bitmain.com/support/download .

Power-cycling your Antminers will not hurt them. If you have an older Bitmain firmware version that allows SSH access, you will preferably want to SSH (Putty) into them (IP address) first and do the following prior to pulling the plug.

(Default SSH login name is: "root" and password is: "admin" (both no quotes).)

type "poweroff" (no quotes), and press Enter.

Close the SSH session.

Wait 5 minutes while the miner cools down, and then physically unplug the power supply to your S9.

To restart, simply plug the power supply back in and let your miner boot up. Takes about 5 minutes before it's mining again.

If you don't have SSH access, don't sweat it, just reboot the miner, and unplug the network cable. Usually by the time it has rebooted and completed the fan test, it has cooled down enough to unplug.

If you don't want to use either of the above methods, just pull/disconnect the power. It's not ideal, but it will do the job.

I prefer to use Slushpool. Helpful instructions here:

https://slushpool.com/help/mining-introduction/?c=btc

Feel free to check out my ASIC setup for more tips at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFtqDvpWNSKQs40u2mUiTJg

Good luck!!

Here it goes

From the top down

Behind the rack blanks at the top I have a 16 Channel Hikvision NVR. (Not pictured)

The monitor I found on amazon, here’s a link if anyone is interested. Monitor

The triplite power supplies are pretty much standard. I was hoping they would show energy usage but unfortunately non of them pull enough power to register on their displays. They can be found here

The networking gear is all Ubiquiti. We have a 1gb symmetrical fiber uplink to the house. Cloud key controls the network. There is about a dozen unifi AP’s scattered all over the house. Didn’t really need a 48 port poe switch here but I really like the look of them between 2 patch panels.

I have a UDM-Pro on order to replace the unifi security gateway. I absolutely despise of the USG-Pro, the performance is terrible, they run hot and the fans are pinned at max rpm. If you go with a cloud key and Ubiquiti switches you minus well use their gateway so it all ties in to their unifi controller.

The Contour box is from Cox. Att uverse is shit and I did want at least 1 cable box so when my parents visit I won’t have to explain how to use a chrome cast to them lol

Last but not least the Sonos amps. Fantastic amps, airplay 2 enabled and work with Spotify connect. Love them to death. They are a little pricy and $500 each. Sonos is definitely proud of their stuff. All of the tv’s have playbars under them too. It’s so nice to be able to group all my speakers together at the touch of a button and play music around the house.

Sorry for the formatting, I am on mobile right now. Honestly didn’t expect this post to get this much attention!

Any other questions fire away!

I run 2 sony xplod 12's on a 400 watt orion amp in my shop and and a kicker l7 in my room on an 800W kenwood amp to cover my addiction to proper bass. It's all car audio stuff. And my neighbors can feel it if it is turned up much at all.

The biggest barrier is getting enough 12v current to handle a car amp. 250W really isnt bad though. Thats well within the capabilities of many modern pc power supply's 12v outputs. You would need to make sure that the PSU can can output at least 25 amps at 12v (this gives ~4 amps over the max power draw of the amplifier)

Look up using a PC PSU as a 12v supply for info on how to turn those PSU's on. 12v is 12v. As long as you can supply enough current, the amp will be very happy. In fact it will be more stable than any power supply that amp was intended to run on.

VERY IMPORTANT: Put a 25A fuse inline between the PSU and the amp for safety. 20+ amps can catch things on fire real quick if it shorts and a fuse can save your house.

For ease and cost you might wanna look at just a 12v power supply like https://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Compact-Supply-Converter-PSV300/dp/B000NPT4TK

You still need a fuse!

Check out: http://www.bcae1.com/ for loads of info on car audio wiring. Everything applies to this setup it's just in a house instead of a car.

If I was buying piecemeal, I would buy...

• FT-450D $750
  
• Pyramid 30amp switching psu ~$80
  
• DX-CC Fan Dipole $180
  
• 50' rg8x feedline $20
  
  total ~ $1030
  
  So youd save ~$200, but you also wouldnt be getting the LDG tuner ... which is likely where the cost difference is. IMO you dont need the LDG tuner, the built in ATU + fan dipole that is resonant on multiple bands will get you operating on 80,40,20,10 (and maybe even 6).
  
  Alternatively, you can build very simple 40/20 fan dipole for MUCH cheaper than the DX-CC (like ... $50?) so it really depends how much you want it to work "out of the box".
  
  FWIW i bought the dx-cc when i bought my first HF rig (an FT-897d) because I didnt want to mess with antenna stuff a ton before getting on the air. I've been very happy with it.
  
  
  
  edit:
  
  to clarify, I think you are better off spending money on an antenna than you are on a tuner.

One 240/30A should be adequate :) That gives you 7,200 watts and even at 80% load that's 5,760 watt max so you're pretty close to that number. Go with two x2 240/30A for now; you may just need the one extra down the road if you expand or have a tool or something that can take advantage of the 240's. Might as well get it done while the electrician is in there.

We upgraded ours completely as our 100 amp panel to be upgraded so had my friend (master electrician) install new 200 amp panel (waiting for 200A drop by the electric company). 40-slot panel including whole house surge protector (fits inside two slots).

I took the possible maximum power each card can draw just to have some breathing room and ended up with x2 240/30A breaker running on L6-30 plugs with Tripp-Lite PDU's (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A) I split the power between the two lines even though I can probably run all my 40 1080 Ti's on one but wanted to spread the load a bit.

240's are nice since there's a slight increase in efficiency but also you're able to run server PSU's like HP's with breakout board which ends up being cheaper than buying couple 1200W PSU's.

That's really great to hear and a tremendous burden lifted - I'm happy for you. Thanks for letting us know; I really felt your pain!

Where does the HDMI come into play. Are you not going from your Interface to speakers with TRS cables?

Also, for safety sake, get yourself a real conditioner, or real surge protection and run your grounds together, through it. If you have a surge, the surge will travel down all wires and always finds the the one source that is hasn't protection, i.e. an ethernet cable, running into your system, an HDMI from an additional monitor that's running into your computer and may have your cable TV running into it (another source). It's a binary choice: all in or no protection, as there really isn't an in-between.

Panamax (Furman's Consumer Line) offers ones with greater variety of protection, such as ethernet, and offers wonderful protection from a surge and conditions your power.. Other trusted brands include Triplite and API. Many even warranty your equipment from surges if you use their products as directed. Cheap insurance! THIS one is basic and only $52, will not condition your power, but is really protection and WILL protect your products, if you follow the guide lines included.

If you have a power conditioner, but have unprotected Ethernet running into your studio system, THIS is just to protect the ethernet part of the equation.

Hope this helps.

Mr-Mud

I second this. I swapped everything over to 240 last night and everything seems much more stable. Definitely affordable, especially if you already have an unused 20/30A 240V in a garage or something and definitely worth doing. Tripplite 30A PDU ~$160 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), C14 to PSU cables ($5 each or less if used) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RRX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and presto. You're good to go. It was literally plug and play with all of my PSUs (EVGA, Corsair, Rosewill, etc.). Everything is on one 30A 240V outlet instead of spread across multiple 110 outlets.

I know this isn't what you're looking for, but maybe others may be. If you just want to buy a solution for this, plus other features, you may be interested in this power strip:

https://www.amazon.com/Web-Power-Switch-Pro-Model/dp/B0765NCB2L

For this use, it has an auto-ping function that you can configure to reboot certain sockets if it doesn't successfully ping a certain number of times, and wait an amount of time before trying again, etc. You can reboot sockets in certain orders if your network equipment requires that.

I haven't messed around with anything advanced yet, but it does have MQTT, REST, echo etc.

Net Admin here, I'm not sure what your budget it is, but we routinely use network controlled (IE has a webpage) power strips and even phone controlled (Connects to a phone jack for redundancy) to power cycle devices.

an example here (Use autoping to reboot Modem/Router so that you never lose network connectivity) or something like this. Just a thought in case no one has ever told you about them. Outside of that that's a pretty awesome set up.

Thanks man, it came out a lot nicer than expected.
I had some LED par cans laying around that I used to use for parties, just put them in the corner behind the desk. One facing straight up to the ceiling, the other two uplighting the wall opposite them. The two shining on the walls are set to the same speed while the 3rd which is on the ceiling is slightly slower and unsynced so I can have a bit of a cool dynamic. Plus I have them all plugged into a rackmount power strip (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) so I can switch individual ones on and off whenever.

Agreed. I just got a cheap DJ one for my home setup, but it's great having a switch for each device instead of reaching around my desk to turn off the speakers every day. After buying that one I saw another that also has a USB charging port on it, wish I'd gotten that one.

I will second this. For a small investment ($300+/-), you can get an excellent mobile unit like the Uniden 980SSB that has all the features you'd want or need for a entry level base station, a good antenna such as the Solarcon A-99 or IMAX, and a decent power supply that will run 5A constant for a barefoot (no amp) radio. You should be able to reach out all over your local area (5-10 miles) and talk with few issues, huge buildings and mountains aside of course.

If you want to walk on the wild side and get a small linear amplifier (under 200W), you can expand that range drastically, and even do some very respectable DX work on SSB, like across states or even international communication when the conditions are right. Now, here's the disclaimer... Linear amps ARE illegal. You are legally limited to 4W. I can't LEGALLY justify telling you to use one of these, and do so at your own risk, but many CB users do. And at power levels far exceeding 200W. With very little to no enforcement by the FCC. So take that with a grain of salt.

My base works excellent and is essentially the recipe I've given you. I have made many contacts out of state, and half way across the country. I can hear Mexico from time to time as well. Here's what I have. This would exceed $300, but I added a larger power supply to support an amp, and of course an amp.

Uniden 980SSB -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B5ZAES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IqHqDb8ECS0SF

Solarcon A-99 -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JT550G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vrHqDb7YAXWBZ

Pyramid PSV-300 Power Supply -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPT4TK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fsHqDb88K4CGP

RM Italy KL203P Linear Amplifier -

https://www.newegg.com/p/0TF-0002-00001

Ahh gotcha, I do know you have to be pretty particular when installing outlets in the top of something like a table/counter. Depending on codes in your area there are lots of options for popup outlets. first thing that comes to mind is the office desk type: https://www.amazon.com/Pop-up-Power-Data-Station/dp/B00FBU3VHS/ref=sr_1_4 (probably find a cheaper one somewhere else) or https://www.amazon.com/Pulling-Tabletop-110-220V-Meeting-Geckone/dp/B017QZQAOG/ref=sr_1_1 I do know that installing a normal plug just flat on the top of something is a definite no no anywhere. The easiest solution in my mind are metal or plastic (the outdoor conduit kind) under the table with plugs.

For grounding the metal boxes, if you go metal, just tie the ground from the wire going to the wall to a screw along with wire nutting all the grounds together. It's often easier (and proper) to cut a small piece of wire to go from the wirenutted bunch and run that to a screw in the box. Just make sure its the ground and not the neutral/hot wire (generally the ground is the bare copper (romex) or green wire (extension cords))

No, you are lucky 220V 30 Amps is perfect (will support 5200 watts without much to spare). Just get a PDU like this one - or another one that has the plug you need.

The power supplies will be slightly more efficient with 220V input.

I actually just had an electrician in to do a circuit upgrade last week for my mining!

2000w at 120v is roughly 17 amps. This is actually a bit above the recommended continuous operation limit of a 20 amp circuit - you're only supposed to run at 80% rated capacity if running for more than 3 straight hours. It's close enough you could probably get away with a 120v 20 amp circuit per unit, especially if you're actually pulling less power - is 2000 watts the rated power of the PSUs (like two 1000 watt PSUs), or is that actually measured? I managed to burn out a GFCI pulling 19 amps through it, but that was actually measured with a clamp ammeter, not the theoretical max of the system.

You could have them do a single run of 240v 30 amp with an L6-30 plug, then run it into a PDU for distribution to the systems. The run would likely be $300, then another $100 for a dirt cheap PDU. Running at 240v is more efficient than 120v, plus it makes it easier to get the necessary power. One L6-30 would be enough to run your 3 rigs within the safety margins, and if they pull less current than they're rated for, you might be able to run a 4th on that. You could also spend a bit more for a metered PSU, which has a current display built into it so you'd know exactly how much power you're actually using (I am using this one from Tripp Lite, although I got a deal on it). You can find some cheap ones at http://www.refurbups.com/APC-PDU

As for what I specifically did - I had one big 100 amp line run to a subpanel, then put in 4 circuits in the mining room; 2 L6-30 240v 30 amp and two 5-20 120v 20 amp. The L6-30s each run 4 rigs with a bit of expansion room, and the 5-20s run cooling and peripherals (like routers).

Wow thats neat! I wonder how hard it would be to modify a 1U PDU like this to be like that

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012VN0I0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A bit overkill, but it is awesome! lol.

Not quite as cheap per u but you can get 10 packs of the APC 1u panels for about $50 on Amazon and probably cheaper on eBay. We buy these things by the case (of 400) at work, they are okay so long as you aren't constantly pulling them out.

If you want amazing blanking panels find the IBM panels with the rubber gaskets and metal spring clips on eBay, we have a number of those floating around that have to be over 20 and they still clip in cleanly every time.

APC rack blanking panel kit - 1 U - 10 PACK (AR8136BLK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007RBWSU/


IBM blanking panel example
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-3-Space-3U-Server-IT-Rack-Mount-Server-Panel-Blank-Filler-Spacer-375739/192710670805

Create a business.

Get commercial electric rates by googling “commercial electricity near me” and choosing an energy provider that offers commercial electric in your area. (You can get commercial electric in your home if it is also your business address).

Install 30-amp 240 volt circuit breakers with one corresponding outlet for each breaker. Buy one 30-amp PDU to plug into your 240 volt outlet. Make sure you install the correct outlets for the plug on the PDU that you choose.

Do not waste money on air conditioning. Install ducted ceiling exhaust fans. Exhaust through the roof and out of the house (not into the attic), or into an active plenum of a commercial space.

Feel free to message me for help with setting up your operation.

I found a custom cord page on that site:

https://www.stayonline.com/custom_power_cords.aspx

I'm not sure how it validates the configuration since receptacles have different wires/grounding but they have an email you can contact on there for guidance.

If it's possible to change that plug into a NEMA L5-30 (which it seems is possible on that custom cord page) then op could get a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000083KIV

That might be a little overkill for what op needs.

Another option to consider is instead of using the C13 to NEMA 5-15 cables from your PSU, you can use C13 to C14 to a PDU that accepts them which would run your PSUs at 240V instead of 120V. Then instead of the NEMA 10-50 to L5-30 op could get a cable that does NEMA 10-50 to L6-30 and a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A

This is all operating under the assumption that it is possible to convert 10-50 to L5-30 or L6-30. NEMA 10-50 is non-grounding so that may be an issue.

Hey can you recommend any smart PDUs that show wattage? I’m using these now but they only display amps

Tripp Lite Metered PDU, 30A, 30 Outlets (6-C19 & 24-C13), 208/240V, L6-30P, 10 ft. Cord, 0U Vertical Rack-Mount Power (PDUMV30HV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4w5ZBbQZ3NQ0A

Edit: looking at my amp readout, overclocked to 14th/s, my miners are pulling 5 amps. I used that to calculate my watts and on 208v I’m estimating I’m pulling 1040 watts. Huge improvement even overclocked.

I'd be pretty upset with that. You could order the Lutron power-panel kit:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/085312.pdf

I'm betting the barrel plugs are the most common 2.1mm x 5.5mm size used for security cameras. If that is so, there is lots of stuff available to run several from one power-supply, for example this multi-barrel-connector power supply kit with a few of these power extensions. There are also similar things for 12V Christmas lighting that are more likely to be white cables.

I'd also use a raceway kit to conceal the cables.

The Lutron kit sure looks like a standard multicamera power supply for security cameras.

Easy, just turn off the main power strip when you are not gaming.
There is no practical need for a "failsafe", because standby draw should be rather low.

A bit more complex, but safer, is a DJ power strip. Still no"failsafe" but better than the one strip.

Best I can help is in IT we used 'managed power strips' While not wireless, it can still be connected to the network.

Example here

Keep trying new things. I'm lucky to have a proper room where I can get everything just right, but one new pedal or synth comes along, and the whole setup gets torn apart and reconfigured. That's half the fun! I get the cut-to-length velcro by the roll and use it on everything.

I can't quite see everything you've got going on, but since you've got that rack, you could add a power strip (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) to get all your power plugs organized behind convenient toggle switches (might hide away some of the clutter also).

You probably don't need a patch bay just yet, but if you add a few more audio inputs/outputs, and you find yourself juggling connections too much, consider adding one, such as: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PX3000/. That can help with organizing cables and routing options as your setup grows.

Thanks everyone for your responses. Here is a dumb question. But.. I need to ask. The power supplies I am using are EVGA Supernova 1000 watt G2. It states they are rated for 100-240v. The L630 plug with PDU is 208v setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1516596882&sr=8-2&keywords=l630p+pdu&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=oskoin-20&linkId=1cb71ee8826c1d8f3973a81f0386eb15 This is the PDU I am looking at currently.

Will the Power supplies I have work fine with this setup being that it is 208v and not full 240? I think that answer is yes, but I want to make sure.

​

And also, not to add more separate posts, from what I understand, I would use a normal plug-in with surge protector for my items such as fan/portable a/c, and computer monitor right? The PDU is for the powersupply of the GPU rigs only.

https://www.amazon.com/Panamax-MR4000-Management-Protection-Conditioning/dp/B009MQTC52

Get one of these for your power cables. Fits nicely on a normal sized shelf and looks like any other component, none of your power cables will be visible from the front. Zip ties for your HDMI cables.

This was the UPS that was purchased. https://www.cdw.com/product/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-6000VA-RM-UPS-6000-Watt-6000-VA/3590615?cm_ven=email&cm_cat=ET_BC&cm_pla=MKT14Q076adu0000p0000&cm_ite=MKT14Q076_20180201_TRIG_PRODCATCH__CTRL_A&etsi=12258963&etsu=&obem=r6tIoIA1Z0S7QJ6YyY4EeD30ItfeRgzMhoxC7JcVWmc%3D

As for a rack we have a single rail rack about 6 foot tall. Nothing special. The company I work for is moving their servers back in house so they never had a heavy duty rack. Currently holds our ASA, Switch, PBX system, and a couple other odds & ends.

The PDU I was looking at on amazon is here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thanks for all of this!

So I could upgrade to 30a breaker. Install 1x nema L6-30p or 30r receptacle? Discription for the pdu says it has a L6-30p twist lock. Then connect this pdu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VQMTKO/ref=asc_df_B003VQMTKO5414953/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B003VQMTKO&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194017009123&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6516944376130781886&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028903&hvtargid=pla-309635873696 to the receptacle then I'm good to go for up to 24a worth of miners which on 220v should be 3x? The pic for the power cable on the pdu looks to be a normal 3 prong a.c. plug.

12u Royal rack. It comes on wheels, which is a plus for me. Also grab yourself a rack mount power switch These are really nice to have for power cycling devices, and they look cool too.

I've heard lots of great things about the American DJ power strips. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491478959&sr=1-5&refinements=p_4%3AAmerican+DJ

The 2 comments are pointing you in the right direction for the timer.

Regarding the TV, both of their suggestions are good. My kids don't have a TV in their rooms but they all use the electronics in the Loft which all 4 of their rooms open directly into; I use these powerstrips and turn off the outlets that power the TV, computers and sound system after my "bedtime" timed event. I used the catch the boys waking up early to play games online or watch youtube videos.

Well, $120 is better than $400, so I do appreciate the advice. I may get it.

Here you go.

single port, $70
dual port, $100
eight port, $135

Have fun.

The Tripplite guide was perfect for explaining the different types of PDUs! I am now looking at this one as it seems to have individual switch control and a web interface, which is exactly what I'm looking for. I'm not sure if I will be able to SSH into it though, which may make it unusable to proxmoc so I will have to confirm that first.

Amazon shows something like this however i don't see it rated at 20amp. Most show 10amp. Maybe APC has something in 20amp?

>pre-outs continue to play when headphones are connected

Jason explained this, there's no 4 pin XLR jack that supports muting.

I solved this issue using a power switcher but my gear is on an audio rack, so it might not be the best solution for free-standing gear.

Which conversion cables are you referring to?

Here's my planned setup. From the wall socket which is a NEMA 14-30R I plan on plugging the following PDU into it https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A

with the following adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V2JSVV/

Now the question is do i need to use any special PSU cables? Should I use the C19 ports on the PDU or are the standard C13 cables fine?

I plan on running 5 rigs, each rig is pulling about 750 from the wall when plugged into a standard 110 wall outlet.

These are probably both much more expensive options than you want, but:

• Out-of-band management like DRAC/iLO/etc. It's a card that will power the system on, give you remote console, etc. http://serverfault.com/questions/235976/ilo-and-drac-equivalents
  
  
• A KVM of sorts, indeed -- KVM over IP: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KVM_switch#Remote_KVM_devices -- combined with power strip over IP (such as this one)

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VQMTKO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511841268&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=CyberPower+PDU30MVHVT20F+L6-30P+200%2F230+30A+20-Outlets+RM+0U+Metered+Power+Distribution+Unit&dpPl=1&dpID=31yNJv8JHRL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1511841347255

This is the PDU we use. It's about 30 to 40 more than the others, but my tech guy likes the gauges on it to measure power output.

When you get it, it will not plug into a normal 240volt outlet setup. We literally change the cord plugins on the PDU to a 240volt plug. Any electrician can do it in less than 5 mins, or you can do it with a wire stripper and a screw driver in literally 10 mins

https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-6-15P-C13-Power-Cord/dp/B004WJM2V0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1511922973&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=6-15p+end+to+C13

Something like this?
+
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Metered-Rack-Mount-PDUMH32HV/dp/B0050JSCPQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511914789&sr=8-5&keywords=220v%2BPDU&th=1

You might try a bench power supply:

https://www.amazon.ca/Pyramid-PSV300-Heavy-duty-Switching-Supply/dp/B000NPT4TK/

You'll need to pay careful attention to electrical safety and cooling.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/

Just swap the socket to a L6-30 and run with it :)

Kind of pricey, but this could meet your needs:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0765NCB2L

Can be configured to ping a device and initiate a reboot if no response. You can also remote into the power switch to initiate reboots or shutdowns. They have a demo portal set up so you can play with admin features, http://pro.digital-loggers.com, user/pass admin/4321

Less expensive options include:

https://amazon.com/dp/B015NM0LKI - two outlets

https://amazon.com/dp/B01GOOE8OY - single outlet


I don't have first-hand experience with any of the devices, I had been looking into this issue myself a while back and found these devices after some light research.

You want a PDU like this. It allows you to power cycle devices over a network. Just about every modern server room has something similar.

These are great. I struggled to find one and eventually settled on this which is very similar.

The links below are clean, no hidden bullshit affiliate codes.

I'll just link the ones I use. You should buy whatever brand you have a preference to. I buy my PDU's used for usually 40% of the cost of a new one. There will be a ton on eBay and Craigslist in your area. I would recommend you always buy your cables brand new. If you happen to buy them on Amazon, don't ever buy from a 3rd part seller as there is a good chance they will be fakes. So stick to the ships and sold by Amazon for those.


I use these specific PDU's..

Tripp Lite Metered PDU, 30A, 30 Outlets (6-C19 & 24-C13), 208/240V, L6-30P, 10 ft. Cord, 0U Vertical Rack-Mount Power (PDUMV30HV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DekeAbP5ZN6FN

And I use these cables:

TRIPP LITE P036-003-15A Heavy Duty Power Extension Cord 14 AWG IEC 320 C19-C20 3' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01999UX22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TfkeAbYWGXW2B

Yes, it's common practice in some studios. Mostly for just cross referencing on multiple monitors, or turning on/off a sub.

There's actually a rack mount version of a power strip for that very reason.

Agreed. Surge protectors can have a huge impact on sound quality but also picture quality. Anyone that tells you otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about. This is what you want Panamax MR4000 Amazon

Something like this PDU May do the job.

These work really well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015NM0LKI/

They reset automatically if an internet outage is detected, can be scheduled, and controlled remotely. There's also a version available with a single outlet instead of two.

UPS aren't relevant here. They are battery backups. You need a PDU. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure the plug matches. You will also need C14 to C13 power cords.

That is nice. I remember, though not fondly, cobbling together a Digi board (probably ISA maybe PCI) and octopus cable because additional conservers were outside our budget.

Since we're swapping links, here is a budget device for power cycling: Web Power Switch Pro.

I have a this car amp and a 4 ohm 400w rms Focal car subwoofer sitting around and want to use in my house. Will this power supply be sufficient? Will I need anything else to to make it work?

These are all running:

• TB250-BTC PRO (12-slot) MOBOs (utilizing 8 slots)
  
• Pentium G4400 processors
  
• 4GB ram
  
• Ubuntu 17.10 with latest Nvidia drivers (390.25)
  
• Cheap 32GB SSD
  
• Cheap Amazon shoe racks
  
• Tripp Lite PDU
  
• Fan
  
  

Here's an MSNSwitch one, I'll let you know if I find an Amazon Basics branded one.

For power, you'll want to go with 220v (it's more efficient). You'll need to know the draw for your power supply and the load (amps) it puts on the circuit. For example 1400w @ 220v = ~6.36amp. Because it's constant draw, you don't want to exceed 80% of the circuit's max capacity.

For my units, I installed 2 x 30amp 220v breakers in my panel and used a few PDU's (https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/) with a NEMA L6-30P connecters and C14 to C13 power cables that connect it to the power supplies.

Could use one of these adapters along with one of these PDU's. We use a similar setup with an unused NEMA 14-50 outlet.

Lighting

Blank outs

As the other user said, it's a separate power supply. The cable run to the camera from the DVR is usually a siamese cable with two halves. One for video and one for power. Either of these type of power supplies is normally used.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Channel-Camera-Power-Supply/dp/B0069MB6G0

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Security-Adapter-Channel-Connectors/dp/B002WM8ZV0

any rack mount AC switch found for 30 $

https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1509683878&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=american+dj+rack+mount+AC+switch

I've been using these power strips for awhile now on my labs and they are very handy.

http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-PC-100A-Channel-Lighted/dp/B0002GL50Q

I'm probably going with this one. Around the same price as the no-name networked power strip I found on amazon but with 4x as many power ports.

Why don't you just plug it in to one of these?

Edit: Or a less expensive version.

> ADJ Power conditioner

It's just a power switch?

https://www.amazon.ca/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q

looks to be this switch

https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q

Typically on a rack people install a PDU. Ours are vertical and mounted in the back but there are 1u PDU's.

Here is just an example - related products shows different types.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-19-Inch-Rackmount-Distribution-RKPW081915/dp/B0035PS5AE

Network accessible power switch/strips exist for remote power cycling if a system becomes unresponsive. This would be an example, but there are plenty of options and pricepoints out there.

This might be overkill but if you have a lot of rigs, this is an option.

https://www.amazon.com/Web-Power-Switch-Pro-Model/dp/B0765NCB2L/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542372603&sr=8-4&keywords=digital+logger

Maybe if the offshore IT people were up to snuff they would have invested in https://www.amazon.com/Managed-Designed-Manufactured-Synaccess-Networks/dp/B0039OZKPE and its big brothers Every data center we use has monitored power.

https://www.amazon.com/Managed-Designed-Manufactured-Synaccess-Networks/dp/B0039OZKPE

I use a pdu https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUMV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0

with these cords

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C14-IEC-320-C13-P005-006/dp/B0027JTJ22

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C19-IEC-320-C20-P036-006/dp/B001348EDC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPT4TK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_B6ldvb1QH60FQ

Plenty of power for a radio and amp

I was looking at the same brand but this model. What do you think?

I use this one, pretty decent. I can handle 3 to 4 antminers (depending on model). Tripp Lite Basic PDU, 30A, 20 Outlets (16 C13 & 4 C19), 200/208/240V, L6-30P Input, 15 ft. Cord, 1U Rack-Mount Power (PDU1230) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The plug next to it is 120v 20a. That plug is a 240v.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUMV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0

I don't really know much about PDUs, so I just got a simple one. 30A 220v - which can run 4 of my 1400w server PSUs per PDU per 30A outlet.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've got something similar,

http://www.amazon.com/MSNSwitch-Newest-Internet-IPEnabled-Interface/dp/B015NM0LKI

Works pretty good, this one has 2 outlets that you can set differently, you can schedule reboots, there's various notifications and settings you can change etc. I had problems with my cable modem shitting out on me so now when it loses connectivity it reboots. I highly recommend it for anyone constantly having to go unplug your shit. Now almost every time I want to use the Internet it's working like it's supposed to.

I got this http://www.amazon.com/Switch-Digital-Loggers-Outlets-Protection/dp/B00EZWD146/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462320903&sr=8-1&keywords=web+power

It lets you remote into a web interface and turn devices on/off. It also lets you script things up to turn things on/off. Comes with default scripts as well to ping an IP for example and if no reply after X minutes restart plug 2 etc etc.

There's this if you don't feel like going through the hassle of signing up as a partner:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZWD146/

Maybe I missed that in the documentation (my last one was a G5), but how do you remotely reboot a frozen Xserve?

Also, you could always use a networked PDU

The ERL-3 and ES are pretty good kit, though I have a bit of a bias against the ERL because I've had two of them go TU on me. I will point out that that's a POE switch, and you didn't list POE as a requirement. The non-POE version is quite a bit cheaper.

I have this PDU because I want my cables "inside" the rack, but it looks similar enough. The one thing I hate about it is that the power switch isn't protected in any way--it's WAY too easy to accidentally power off half of your stuff.

Other than that, looks solid.

A very relatable problem. I bought one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZWD146/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_IlhIwbPXVWVZE

This has poor documentation, but you can use it in place of the dumb WiFi socket to get the desired results : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NM0LKI/

There's an awkward web API way of controlling the socket (go to the website http://www.msnswitch.com/ and then Support & FAQ and then Q#5912 - doesn't appear I can link directly)

You can also set it up to auto reboot one of it's outlets if an IP isn't responding, so you could have it reboot the Pi if it stops pinging for X time.

You of course can also just log into the web API and manually do things too.

I did try doing this (turning the master output on the Zed mixer down to infinity) and the voltage change still causes the "pop" in the speakers. I'll probably invest in a on/off switch strip like this in order to avoid the evil "pop".

Basically nothing inexpensive. I've used this power supply in a production environment running 24/7 for ~1.5 years now, but of course you don't get programmable voltage and current.
I've been using the extech 382275 as my primary bench supply for awhile now. It falls a little short of what you need, but I think it's as close as you'll get for <$1k. As an additional note, the output capacitor is not included in the current control loop, and there's no over current protection, so you can inadvertently dump a shitload of current through your device if you're not paying attention.

If I had to replace it I would use one of these. The negative reviews are mainly from people that had bad experiences with the distributor or misleading info on Amazon.