(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best remote-control extenders

I personally use two of the single device models and they work great. Can be powered by the device itself if it has a usb port. Best part you don't have to buy a special remote. It uses the existing remote you have.

For a single device:
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416856752&sr=8-1&keywords=Infrared+Extender+Receiver+Emitter+Repeater

For multiple devices:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitters/dp/B00OT8TZLO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1416856752&sr=8-5&keywords=Infrared+Extender+Receiver+Emitter+Repeater

Thanks to the wife we currently hide all of our electronics in an old dresser she re-did. I cut holes in the back for air flow and it works like a champ.

If you're really on a tight budget and only care about cable why not just drop 5 coax and another Ethernet cable? You'll run component video out the box for the second zone and that extra cat cable can be an extension for an inexpensive IR repeater like this:
Monoprice Dual Band IR Repeater (109895) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE7QC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_j3Hevb0NG3Z3Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE7QC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_j3Hevb0NG3Z3Q


If you're not constrained by budget as much I'd suggest a 4x2 or 4x4 HDMI matrix or even better a surround sound receiver with zone2 HDMI output. Pair that with two good quality remotes like URC (upstairs/downstairs) with an RF base station and you'll be on your way to surround sound in one room, have video running to the other. And you'll be able to play any connected source in both rooms.

1. What’s an analog output? So should I set windows volume to 90 then?
   
   
2. Ok, where can I turn it off/on then?
   
   
3. Ok
   
   
4. Ok
   
   
5. I am using this mic, plugged into my receiver. I don’t know how to set the crossovers.
   
   
6. Possibly, because I have no idea what that means. lol
   
   
7. Like a foam isolation mat/pad, for example: does a isolation pad couple or decouple. What’s the difference between the 2 and which is better.
   
   
8. Ohhhhhhh, HP is the woofer and LP is the tweeter, right? And that the crossover is when the speaker switches between the two, correct?
   
   Subwoofer
   
   
9. No problem
   
   
10. Ok, will do more research
    
    
11. Ok, don’t really understand, so I will do more research. Also what did you mean when you said “the sound coming from the back side”, I though there was only 1 woofer on the subwoofer
    
    
12. Do you think the rubber feet on the bottom of my sub are already good enough? In this video reviewing the SUB-1200, said that the rubber feet did good on carpet, he said it at 7:02. (Reference to coupling and decoupling) or should I just get some metal spikes.
    
    Thanks

if the HMD doesn't come on but u hear audio on the HMD id suggest if u want a longer play space to get the Radio hdmi extender plus cable matters 3meter USB.(https://www.amazon.com/Radioshack-Repeater-15-540-supports-1080p/dp/B00NT3NSXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478096862&sr=8-1&keywords=radioshack+hdmi+extender) beware though on amazon I ordered it and they sent something that looked like it with a different name which worked but not with the rift. You have to go to a radio shack store and purchase its 21.99 and works 100% if you want to extend the rift with 2 3meter cables. its powered also so you would have to be creative with your cabling.

Ok so I'll give you a tip on Samsung TVs. the vast vast majority of Samsung TVs made in the last 4-5 years have an IR sensor that can be seen from the back side of the TV. if you tape the IR blaster to the backside of the TV, right on the sensor itself, you may not have to use black electrical tape to cover it up.

second thing is while i havent used these personally with the harmony hub, this should work:

https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Emitter-Extender-Cable-Extension/dp/B073WYS4FG/

As the IR Emitters are pretty standard.

however, Logitech likes to use 2.5mm instead of 3.5mm, so you need this too:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107121-2-5mm-Adaptor-Plated/dp/B01M3SN2LW/

Hey I couldn't help but jump into this discussion since you asked OP for info. The problem with a lot of wireless HDMI transmitters is that they compress and decompress the stream which causes lag issues as well as compromise image fidelity. I never trust wireless with anything HD.

In any case, the solution which I use is a little different, and requires a little bit more effort, but is totally worth it since it guarantees image fidelity up to 330 feet. I boost the HDMI signal over Cat6 cables using an HDBaseT extender. I have Cat6 cables running all in-wall so I got fortunate with this set-up and didn't have to run Cat6 myself all around the house.

I get lag-free, uncompressed HDMI delivered right to my TV, it's awesome.

EDIT: for more info on HDBaseT, check this link out.

You can get runs longer than 15 meters with some more specialized cables/repeaters. Prices right now are not terrible either.

For HDMI, a simple option would be an amplifier: Here is an example. Some out there have been verified to work well with the Rift at varying distances. (The one I linked has not, as far as I know. But if it can do 4K at 25 meters, I would imagine it would be fine).

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VR-Related USB inputs, I would probably stick with long USB 3.0 extender cables. Like this, but find one with the appropriate length.

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Non-VR related USB inputs and outputs are easy. Cat5e extenders work just fine. Example

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EDIT: Noticed the USB 3 extender link is for 25 feet and not meters... just changed a few words.

Sounds like you only have one source and one destination (RaspPi to Living Room Speakers). If that's the only route you need, than you're looking for an "Audio Extender over cat5". These won't connect to your router or home switch, they use Cat5 as a long extension cable from a transmitter directly to a receiver.

A quick Amazon search found these passive RCA to Cat5 extenders or this active 3.5mm to Cat5e Extender. Word of warning about active boxes in general; they are usually made by cheap Chinese manufacturers with terrible Quality-Assurance. They are often flaky or don't work in exactly the way you expect them to.

Now, if you have multiple speaker systems in multiple rooms with multiple sources you might want to look into a true audio network. Dante, CobraNet, MADI, and about two dozen other protocols can route audio over their own dedicated VLAN. This set-up requires (expensive) commercial hardware and some amount of experience to set-up correctly. I would reach out to an "AV Integration" company to get a quote for something that will meet your needs.

I'm using this HDBase-T adapter in my home theater on Cat6. Works beautifully.

Prior I was using this non-HDBase-T adapter which had some signal issues. I still have one of these installed in a friend's brew pub and it's working beautifully there.

You used to stick it to your keys or remote and whistle or clap and it would beep.

Found it one star lol Perfect Solutions Whistle-and-Find Remote Control Locater, Set of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ODQ7EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jxN4BbKGNX3CF

As others have said, the original Xbox One needs an external IR Blaster to communicate with your devices. The Kinect was serving that role for you, but you can also use an IR Extension Cable; here's Microsoft's support article on the topic.

I don't use one myself, but something like this should do the trick.

25 Feet is well within the HDMI spec. That plus an active USB cable leading to a hub. Just run as many HDMI cables as monitors.

But what if it is out of the reach of HDMI, or if you already have Cat6 lines run to where you want to use it.

Solution (For under $200):
HDMI Balun (4)
Amazon

USB over Ethernet
Amazon

Do you have the Audessey mic that came with the receiver? You can do a setup that will properly calibrate the speakers. I'd set the sub's gain at somewhere between 40-50%.

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The mic looks like this.


https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Audyssey-Sound-Calibration-Microphone/dp/B016U6BJRU/ref=asc_df_B016U6BJRU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312118595187&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3956729824238924451&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016296&hvtargid=pla-612951757363&psc=1

The real question should be 'connecting speakers to Xbox'. Just so you know the sound really doesn't come from the monitor, but from the xbox. You need two things. Speakers and an HDMI Audio Extractor. Something like this We use one of these for our Roku to a soundbar for watching TV. The HDMI cable carries sound and video so you need a little device like this to extract and split that signal to some speakers.

So when you get it, you'll also need a second HDMI cable. Xbox -> to Audio Extractor with HDMI cable -> second HDMI cable to TV. Then an audio cable from Audio Extractor to speakers. Depending on speakers you might have to get another cable Like this

There are three ways you can use IR blasters cables.

The first one is by taking a mono or stero 2.5mm male to male plug. One end goes into the IR out on the back of the Xbox and the other end goes into the IR in on your cable box.

There is a limitation with this method since you can only go to one device, maybe two if you use a headphone splitter.


The second option is to get a cable like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Single-Emitter-Cable-Infrared-Resources/dp/B003118250/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1404579515&sr=1-1&keywords=2+eye+ir+blaster

You just put the IR blaster in front of the IR receiver on your devices this solution allows you to control devices that don't have an IR in on the back.


Finally you can get this:

http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-BlastIR-SW-29311-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B004FJV8EE/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1404579691&sr=1-5&keywords=2+eye+ir+blaster

I use this, since it will repeat any IR single in my main room in the closet where everything is stored. Then all my devices get the signal: cable, AVR, blu ray player, xbox one, ext.

It works great since you can use IR blaster eyes (which it comes with 12!) or you can use 2.5mm male to male mono cables.

Yeah on our old TV we couldn't get any good reflection from anywhere it seemed like. We moved into a new house that's a story and a half type design and so the room where this TV was was in an area with more of an open floorplan so there's nothing really to reflect off of.


So I had bought an IR blaster that I fished through the wall and bought an IR shield cover. And more or less just stuck the IR blaster directly on top of the IR receiver on the old TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Emitter-Stick-Infrared-Emitters/dp/B004WLA25G


https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B01H5A3IWY/ref=pd_sim_23_38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=98GSE8F3JJVSRNAM14D2


From there I used the 2nd IR port on the harmony hub.

I wouldn't really use those. It maaaaaay work but you're going to have degraded signal over that distance, plus it's more prone to failure. The reason you got a good rate on HDMI for that length is that you either need a signal booster (little box) or extender to do it right... they saved lots of money and passed it on to you.

You should go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Blackbird-HDMI-Extender-Over/dp/B06XHNBKWN/

Not going to guarantee it works because I generally don't spec cheap extenders, but it may work. You just need to get some CAT cable, some short cables for each end. If you can make your own CAT cables, you'll be in much better shape.

Can you elaborate more on the Google home compatibility? Just ordered 4 of these Cewaal Sonoff ITEAD Wireless Smart Switch Module Remote Control Appliance for DIY Control White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0752FKFS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6h8hAbGVCHA7H hoping it's the same thing. Wondering if I can wire up some direct wired convection heaters with these.

No problem, I appreciate the correction.

What's your opinion on my situation? Is it worth getting a set of baluns for a 25'-30' run past power cords, power strips, wall worts, cable modem, etc.?

They sell some from [MuxLab for $40 a piece] (https://www.amazon.com/Muxlab-500027-MuxLab-Stereo-Audio/dp/B001KONBH4#customerReviews) or these from Niles for $50 a piece.

I'd really rather not spend >$100 to connect my pre-amp from the other side of the room, but also don't want to waste money on a long RCA if it's not likely to provide clean sound.

okay, there is a way.... you will need to put your harmony hub in a box that blocks IR signals. Hopefully your radio still travels through this box. Then get some IR blaster extender things
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JLTEJKM/ref=asc_df_B01JLTEJKM5255586 You will need one for each device you control with that hub... then you will need to use a cover of some kind to keep the IR signal from getting past direct contact. Just place the IR LED directly on the sensor for the TV, and other devices. If there is cross talk, use electrical tape on the LED.

Like this.

Infrared transmiter, may be used un a computer or with very specific app

https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B01H5A3IWY

EDIT: search image for "jack infrared" because of the transparent red thing

Simple explanation:

I was not aware of that restriction, because I have not used Infrared in any of my projects yet. All I've done here is to make a channel selector of sorts. Since IR emitters are basically just LEDs, I just picked a digital pin to send a "blink " signal to. you would need to adapt this design a bit to suit your needs, and the code is definitely not tailored to your need yet, it's just an example of how the selector works.


How the selector works:
Let's call each LED a device that you want to control.


When you want to send a command to that device, You would set the transistor base pin assosiated with that LED to HIGH, send your command, and then set the Device's transistor pin LOW, unless the very next command to be sent is also going to the same device.

When you send the command, any device whose transistor pin is high will have the command come through the IR emitter. If that command is relevant to the device, it will perform the action associated with the command.

Any Device whose transistor pin is LOW when a command is sent will not receive the command.

I'm assuming you are using something like this. I don't know whether or not these have current limiting resistors built in, or if they depend on the device they plug into to have one. I also don't know for sure, but I'd guess that the "tip" of the connector is the Anode, and the "sleeve" is connected to the cathode.