Reddit mentions: The best reptile & amphibian health supplies

First off, congrats on the tort!

Secondly, warning! Wall of text incoming!

Tank size:

That depends on how large she is. For the average female Russian's (I'm estimating about 7 or 8 inches in length), you should give her about a 3 by 4 feet tank. I have heard of people keeping their smaller torts (i.e. Russian, Hermann's, and Greeks) in the Zoo Med Tortoise House most of the time, but really, it's too small for the tort full time. These people take their torts out of the tank a bunch of the time to roam around the room.

If you have an aquarium tank right now, the caution is that tortoises sometimes will decide to go through the glass and not understand that that's a bad idea because they can see through it. In this scenario, you can wrap the outside of the tank in some paper. It doesn't need to be decorative as long as the tort can't see out.

My follow up question to you is: whereabouts do you live? This will determine if you will require an indoor habitat or if an outdoor one will be sufficient. Outdoor tanks should also be fairly large, as tortoises really like to wander around. If you choose to keep your tort outdoors, make sure that it's caged up really well so that predators cannot get in.

That being said, there are some great care sheets around. One of the ones I used when I first got started was this: http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Russian-Tortoise/ Be sure to play close attention to the temperature gradient that she needs. You'll need some thermometers. One of the temp guns would be highly recommended so you can spot check all over the tank. You could also go to your local hardware store and get a laser temp gun, which will probably be better than this for a bunch more money, but you don't need one better than this, really.

For a low budget tank, I've seen a lot of DIY tutortials around. One of the most common is to get an old Ikea bookshelf, lay it on its back, take the shelves out, and stick a solid tarp down in it so that it's waterproof. Then put soil, forest bark, moss, etc in for the flooring and put your tort in that. The trouble with this is that you really have to make sure that it's safe for your tort down on the floor. I have cats in the house, and while they're cute and loving, they're also assholes when it comes to other animals, so I have to have an actual table up higher with a lid so my cats can't get in.

Water dish:

Anything that's large enough for her to sit in comfortably is good. Make sure that it's not too deep (the water should never be deeper that chin-level), and that it's not too small for her to bathe in. She will want to climb around in it and move around a bit as well. She will drink from it if she needs hydration, and also just sit there if she's too hot. Make sure that this water is clean daily so that she doesn't drink from her own urine/poop water. Also make sure that she's able to climb in and out of the dish by herself. They make special water dishes for this. BUT, as you're trying to budget down, you can actually just use whatever you have around that fits the requirements. I'm using a small terracotta plate for planting pots that I found at my local dollar store because my tortoise is still just a baby.

White discharge is called urates. All reptiles do this; it's nothing to worry about at all, unless it's grainy like sand (signs of dehydration), or solid. It should have the rough consistency of toothpaste. Mine's look more like egg-whites floating in water.

Food:

The spring mix should be fine. Tortoises will eat roughly their shell size in salad in a day. Having a good mix will make sure her internal flora is healthier. Absolutely no spinach should be fed. Where I live, I can't get a lot of good weeds, so I feed a lot of kale, parsley, romaine lettuce, dandelion leaves, etc. I keep a list of "staples", and a list of "occasional supplements" that I rotate through on a weekly basis. If you're lucky enough to live in an area where you can go for walks and pick up a bunch of greens from from wilds, it will be cheaper for you. This website has the best plant database that I've come across so far and will be able to help you in identifying what's safe and what's not.

I supplement every meal I give my tort with Repashy's Superveggie to make sure that she/he is getting all the nutrients that she/he needs. (I have no idea if my tort is male or female right now because she/he is still way too young; maybe in a year or two I'll be able to sex him/her.)

I also have a calcium bone for him/her to nom on whenever he/she wants on the side. It also helps them file down the beak. I have an Exo Terra Sepia Bone for him/her. I just cut off about 1/3rd of a piece to put in the tank (again, because my tort is just a baby).

For special treats, I like to give my tort a singular raspberry, or whatever fruit I have around. So far, she/he's shown a love for raspberries, and cherries, and not so much love for strawberries. To encourage my tort use the calcium bone, I sometimes rub the raspberry all over the calcium bone to make it tastier. Sometimes, I will break off a little piece and sprinkle it into the salad for the day as well.

How much to feed:

Tortoises are not stupid animals, and won't really overeat unless you're feeding all the wrong foods. Assuming you have a high fiber diet, your tort will stop eating when she's done. Again, generally you feed about their shell size amounts of salad in a day. If she eats more or less, that might tell you how she feels about what you're feeding her. Some people will say that the 15-20 minute limit is what you should do, but there's really not a lot of evidence that that's the rule. I've heard it about 50/50 depending on the keeper's style.

Finally, here are some signs that will tell you your tortoise isn't happy/general stress signs:

• some common diseases - http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/commondisease.html
  
• clawing at glass - wrap tank so the sides don’t freak the tortoise out
  
• not eating
  
• unclear eyes
  
• wet, unclear nostrils - look for runny nose syndrome and/or respiratory problems
  
• poop on the tail
  
• weird marking/ scratches on the shell
  
• poop is not solid/regular
  
• urates not runny (or toothpaste-like) - look for solids - sign of dehydration
  
• lethargy/over-active/agitation
  
• ramming into things
  
• muscle weakness
  
• reddish-brown spots around mouth, eyes, or ears (mites)
  
• vomit - If you see this, go to a vet!!
  
  If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask! This sub is sadly quieter than I'd like, so I thought I'd offer some help with what limited experience I currently have.
  
  Good luck!
  
  
  [Edit: formatting and such]
  
  

It's not unidentifiable. In fact, I already did it for you three months ago. It's almost certainly a Greek (aka spur-thighed) tortoise. If you see these spurs on his backside, it's a Greek tortoise.

I recommend you familiarize yourself with the care sheet from TortoiseForum. Here are the major points:

Substrate

The best possible substrates for housing Greek tortoises indoors are a 50/50 mix of top soil and play sand, cypress mulch and aspen wood shavings. (Personally I'd use cypress mulch instead of Aspen, since it's less likely to mold. NEVER use cedar.)

Food

Offer weeds such as Dandelion, clover, plantain, hawksbit, cat's ear, wild strawberry, and thistle. Store bought greens like collards, mustards, kale and turnip can be offered sparingly. Commercial diets such as Mazuri are excellent for helping the tortoises maintain good weight but again should be offered only in moderation. (I can buy dandelion greens in the grocery store here. Also, since your tortoise has metabolic bone disease, a SERIOUS condition, be diligent in dusting all food with calcium powder with D3. D3 is something that you'd supplement occasionally in a healthy tort that gets lots of UVB. Yours has been starved of UVB, and therefore needs more D3 for a while.)

Water

A shallow water dish should be available to them at all times for drinking and soaking and should be changed frequently. Tortoises defecate in water so keeping the supply clean is a must.
They also appreciate occasional misting of their environment and may see it as rain. This prompts them to empty their bowels and drink. (Animals need water. A bit of a no-brainer.)

Lighting

When housing them inside, proper lighting is essential for keeping them healthy. Mercury vapor bulbs which provide both UVA and UVB are a personal favorite of mine. A 100-150 watt vapor bulb is installed on one end only of the indoor unit and this makes for a perfect basking area. The opposite end should remain cool. You can also use a regular spot light for the basking area so long as it reaches a temperature of 95-100F. In this case, a fluorescent UVB emitting bulb will need to be installed as well. (You should ALWAYS have a UVB bulb in your enclosure. Replace it every six months, or yearly if you use a mercury vapor bulb. NEVER use a coil-shaped bulb. These bulbs are a suitable replacement for coil-shaped ones.)

Housing

Indoors, the construction of a "tortoise table" will suit the needs of these creatures well. A 3 by 6 foot unit made of plywood will suffice for a single adult and up to a pair of adults. Wood is always recommended over plastic or glass so that the tortoises cannot see out. This way they will learn their boundaries and it will lessen their attempts to escape. (Don't keep them in glass aquariums. The ability to see outside without being able to go outside can stress your tort. They don't understand transparent glass, and will never learn how to deal with it.)

In addition to the caresheet excerpts above, I recommend you give your tort a good 20-minute soak in warm (not hot) water once a week. Captive torts are almost always mildly dehydrated. Soaking encourages them to drink. It also allows them to absorb water through their cloaca.

Finally, although this tortoise is easy to care for, it is a serious responsibility. Just as you can't feed a dog nothing but table scraps, you can't provide inadequate food and UVB to your tortoise. A bit of daily sunshine just isn't enough. If you're here seeking help for your animal, I can only hope it's because you want to put in the effort to rehabilitate him.

If you want to keep your tort, do your own research and learn how to make him happy and healthy. If it seems like too much responsibility, put him up on craigslist. Mention the soft shell in the ad, and that he's free to anyone with tortoise experience. You can tell who's qualified by asking just a few questions about how they intend to house and care for the tortoise.

Yeah, those Zilla kits all are pretty much terrible. You're better off not using a kit at all actually, since they are way overpriced compared to buying/making the things you need individually.


Definitely go for the 20 gallon long tank. That size tank is actually ideal for a single adult leopard gecko. Instead of the lights, you'll want to heat the tank with an under tank heater under one side that is controlled with a thermostat. That's not optional, since a UTH can get very hot if it isn't controlled. I use the Hydrofarm thermostat, and recommend it. It certainly isn't the best out there, but it does its job and you can't beat the price. Be sure to have a digital thermometer that can read the actual surface of your gecko's substrate, not the little ones that stick on the glass. A thermometer with a probe alongside an infrared temp gun works wonders.

I'd personally also ditch the reptile carpet for tile as well, since my guy kept snagging his toes and jaws on the carpet and the tile is a breeze to clean, but if yours does fine with the carpet it should work fine, just don't use sand. Be sure to have three hides: one on the cool end of the tank, one on the warm end, and a humid one. Exo Terra is my personal favorite for hides, but store brand ones work fine, or you could even make your own.


I can't really say how old your gecko is without pictures, but if you got it from a pet store it's probably pretty young. Be sure you dust its food with calcium and vitamins. Vitamin D3 is particularly important. Repashy Calcium Plus is great, since it's an all-in-one powder, but I know alternating Repti-Cal and Reptivite works as well.


Crickets are a great thing for it to eat actually, better than mealworms. However, variety is always nice, but I don't have a lot of tips on getting a gecko to try new foods since mine isn't picky. Dubia roaches, if you can get over the ick factor, make an even better feeder than crickets, and phoenix worms and Calci-Worms are also great options. I'd stick to feeding your gecko as much as it can eat in a night if it's a baby. You do need to catch and remove any crickets that aren't eaten in 15-30 minutes. I always try to corner them and grab them one at a time, even if that can take a while.

Also, be sure you're gutloading crickets before feeding them as well. Basically, feed them nutritious food before feeding them to your gecko. I recommend either Bug Burger or Cricket Crack, but there are a lot of options out there. Toss in some bits of carrot, potatoes, greens, or fruit as well, or use some gel polymer to keep them hydrated.


Sorry for the massive wall of text, but hopefully this helps! Good luck with your little buddy!

It sounds like 73F is your AIR temp, which is indeed too low for the hot side. We should address the FLOOR temp too but I'll get to that.
If you'd like something to provide heat but not visible light you could get a ceramic bulb. They JUST make heat, but you'll want to get something dimmable because you won't want your cage actually getting too hot. When I was doing my research before I bought my leo I remember 85F being the maximum air temp you want your hot side to be, so I keep mine at or under that. I personally keep my red heat bulb on at all times at the same level, so it naturally dips at night and during the day reaches peak air temps around 83 or so.
This is a ceramic heat bulb that might work: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/zilla-ceramic-heat-emitter-50-watt.html
Pair it with a dimmable fixture like flukers, here: http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta-Clamp-8-5-Inch-Ceramic-Dimmable/dp/B003H200QC
It's extremely convenient to be able to control the temperatures with that dimmer :) So you can use a bulb like that (ceramic) to heat your leo without the light. If you'd like a light for studying you can just use a lamp of any kind (a house lamp). It won't mess up your leos schedule, I don't believe. Especially since you'll turn it off and go to sleep for 5+ hours (sometimes less, I'm in college too) and let the room be in total darkness. I talked to someone who owned multiple crested geckos (which are nocturnal, not crepsecular, but still applies) and had them all in his dining room where he did work from home, sometimes until 1 or 2AM, and had his room lights on. it didn't bother them and he's been doing that for a long time. So based off of that I don't think you should worry. From my own experience with my leo, Noodles really loves when the room light is OFF (and it's completely dark in here excluding our computer screens and his incandescent heat bulb's red glow) but only when it's mealtime or playtime. He's not always in the mood. We keep our room lights on most nights and it's not that different from when we keep them off, which is nice.
Anyway tldr for your air heating problem I suggest a ceramic heat emitter bulb paired with some kind of dimmable lamp fixture like the Flukers I linked to provide the correct hot-side air temps while also not letting off any light.
For your lighting problem I think using a lamp in the room over your study area will be fine, or even just keeping the room light on. I don't think it's a huge deal based on others experiences as well as my own.
 
Now onto the floor temp/air temp problem. It sounds like you don't have anything to actually monitor the floor temp, which is more important than advertised on care sheets. You really need a temperature gun. You can get one easily for $20 on amazon, like where we got ours. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399701&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+gun+reptile
The temperature gun will probably tell you that your hot side's floor temperatures are WAY higher than they need to be. This is what happened to us. Somehow I didn't know that the heat mat would reach temps higher than I wanted, why would it right (??)? Got the radar gun just because, (not believing I'd actually need it) and woopdeedoo 105+F floor temps on the hot side. 13F higher than what it was supposed to be! So we rushed and bought a thermostat immediately (on amazon they're half the price than at petco). If I were in your position I'd buy a thermostat as soon as I could, paired with a temp gun. http://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459399998&sr=8-2&keywords=thermostat+reptile
That's a really highly rated thermostat on there :) What you do with it is this: you'll plug the thermostat into your heat mat (or the heat mat into the thermostat, I can't remember which), then place the probe that comes with it (a long cable with a little doodad at the end) in the cage as close as you can to the dry hide. Here's a pic of how I did mine: http://i.imgur.com/o1vyB0g.jpg Set the temperature on your thermostat to maybe 85F or something and in an hour or so measure the floor temperature with your radar gun. 92F is the optimal floor temperature right underneath the dry hide, so aim for that. Play around with it and get it just right. Be sure to check on the floor temps every once in a while to make sure everything's still working.

My apologies for this coming out as such a novel, and all the links (some don't like getting spammed but I like them for reference). If you already know all about the thermostat/temp gun stuff then I'm sorry haha! it's an easy fix, probably easier than replacing that heat mat (if it really is only producing 73F floor temps). P.S. regarding your gecko's eating situation- they're probably stressed and won't eat for a little bit. It's okay! They'll get hungry soon and will eat normally. My leo has been doing this stupid thing where he'll eat half of his normal dinner and then act like he's not interested anymore (just licking the worms and turning away), so I wait a halfhour and try again. Usually he'll eat some more after that, but then again he hasn't just changed locations and such. :) Good luck!

Such a cutie!

Don't stress getting it from petco, mine both are and are super healthy. The reality is that not everyone is close to an expo or can afford the online ones. No one here judges like that, in my experience! We all just love leos :)

We waited months to name ours and its now based on their personalities. I advise the same. Its easier to remember and seems more personal than a generic name. Ours are "Serenity" (who is very calm and loves being held) and "Serendipity" (who randomly decides she likes us or hates us depending on how she woke up haha). These are shortened to Renity and Dipity. We played around with Hunter, and Buster, and even Jerry!

For set up I HIGHLY recommend a point-temperature gauge. This is the one I have but any with good reviews will do. There are ways to test it when you get it (point at ice-water, point at boiling water, ect) to make sure yours isn't a dud. These are so helpful to make sure you have a nice gradient and just way more reliable than the stick on one I have. I also now have three tanks, so it ended up being cheaper than buying the stick on one three times!

We have an automatic shipment of crickets from Flunker's Farms but its been spotty and inconsistent size and quality wise. We had one that was all bottom-feeder insects.

Invest in some calcium spray right now! It's the easiest thing to use. Just spray some dried mealworms and throw them in. It's like six bucks at petco or online and well worth not having to take a sick baby to the vet.

Last, we noticed that short and sweet interactions have gone a long way in improving our relationship with them. Take out, hold for a while, be calm, put back in. I then instantly feed them so they associate me with food hehe.

Enjoy your new family member!!!

In adult geckos, sand is probably less likely to cause impaction. However, the risk is still there. There are other problems with sand as well, it can cause shedding issues and possibly eye and respiratory issues. It's really not worth the risk, especially considering it's not really even their natural substrate.

As for the females housed together thing, yes, you can housed females together, but it's not recommended. Issues may still occur. Leos are solitary creatures and are always best when housed alone, the only benefit is human convenience. Like sand, cohabitation is another thing that's just not worth the risk.

A lot of guides and care sheets have some inaccurate information, in fact, I'd say most I've seen have something that should be changed. You really have to sort through all the information and facts and figure out what's right, there's a lot of misinformation out there and you really can't trust just one source (though as far as sources go, the care sheet in the sidebar of this sub is one of the best I've seen).

*****

Anyways, onto your original question. Not too bad, the hat's certainly... resourceful. It does look a tad cramped, can't tell what size it is from the picture but you might want to upgrade eventually. More space makes it easier to fit everything you need to in, plus extra room for the leo to roam. Space saving hides are great in the meantime, bulk-free hides (like coconut hides and paper towel rolls) and hides that fit right up against the wall are great.

Some things are harder to tell from pictures. Temperatures, particularly. If those things on the glass are the only thermometers you're using, you'll want new ones. Those are measuring ambient temperatures, and you need to measure floor temps. Use a thermometer with a probe or a temp gun. Also I can't tell for sure if you're using an under tank heater from the pictures, but a UTH is a must. Otherwise I'd just suggest that you check out the care sheet in the sidebar, maybe stick around the sub, and in general just keep learning and improving.

Read the care guide in the sidebar, even if it's overwhelming. Read it all, read it twice, commit it to memory. If you truly care about the well being of the animal then this is going to be your go to guide, while we're always here to answer other questions. Also, you mention only getting one now because you're going to be free for the next dew months. I just want to make sure you understand that you're committing to a 15+ year responsibility here. 15 years if preparing and offering food daily, 15 years of socializing, 15 years of new UVB lights every 6-12 months and heat bulbs more frequently, 15 years of vet visits. If you think you can handle it that's awesome! I just don't want to see the animal end up in the same situation it was already in because you got over eager with your free time. Here are the basic necessities and the best place to buy them:

UVB - Fixture + Bulb

Supplements - Calcium + Multivitamin

Temperature - IR Temp Gun + Ambient Thermometer / Hygrometer

Heat Bulb - Go to Lowes / Home Depot/ Etc... and look for PAR38 Halogen Flood lights. Buy a few different wattage to see which gives you the proper temperature. Direct basking temp (check with IR Gun) should be no 105f - 110f. Once you find the bulb that works you can return the rest and you'll always know which wattage you need in the future.

Food - Superworms are not a staple and should only be fed as treats. Dubia are ideal and can be purchased here. Crickets, BSFL, and other treat worms can be purchased here. Buy online, you will save a lot of money. If the animal is as young as you think then he should be eating 80+ feeder insects every single day.

Substrate - Pick up some slate tile, shelf liner, or contact paper while you're at the hardware store. Do not use a lose substrate or reptile carpet.

Being wobbly can have a number of causes, and, first and foremost, I'd suggest making a vet appointment. If she is still deteriorating, try to find an emergency vet who takes hedgehogs (I know this is not easy!).

Was she walking normally before you went away? Does she have any other symptoms? How old is Dinah?

From what I know, WHS does not present suddenly, but there are other neurological issues that can. It also usually presents earlier in life. Our first hedgie had a stroke near the end of her life. It presented seemingly like WHS, but was accompanied by sudden blindness and happened VERY quickly. She was totally fine one day, and was falling and dragging her legs within a week. We were able to partially rehabilitate her, and she enjoyed some improved quality of life before we had to put her to sleep due to an unrelated tumor. She was five.

Being suddenly stumbly can also be the result of being too cold or having an infection. Do you know if they kept her at the right temp? What's her cage at right now? If you don't have a thermometer in her cage, feel her belly. If it feels cold, she is too cold. Do not let her hibernate. It can be fatal. If you find she's too cold, a good immediate remedy is to hold her under your shirt, using your body heat to warm her. Then, make sure her cage is between 72 and 78 degrees F.

I'm not a vet or a breeder, so I can't tell you with absolute certainty all the signs of infection, but I'd look for changes in bowel habits and appearance. If you suspect an infection at all, you should get her to a vet immediately. Their little hedgehog bodies go downhill very quickly, and an infection is typically easy to treat with antibiotics.

Lastly, no matter what, make sure she is eating and drinking. Sometimes an underlying issue can result in difficulty getting to food and water, and this can compound the primary problem greatly. If it seems she isn't getting proper nutrition and/or hydration, it may be necessary to give her water and food by syringe. We used Carnivore Care with great success. You just mix it with water and feed by syringe or let her lick it, if she will do that.

My apologies if this wasn't entirely coherent. I'm just coming off of sleeping off a migraine, so please feel free to ask for any clarification. I just know how stressful it can be wondering and waiting for an answer. I hope I've been helpful, and please update about how Dinah is doing!

I've heard of pros and cons for every kind of bedding under the sun, but half logs ALWAYS invite potential for a snake to feel stressed out and not completely 'safe', and EVERY bp tank should have a hide on both the cool side and the warm side, so the snake can scoot over to wherever they need to go as their temp needs change. Every bp tanks should also have at least one hygrometer. Fluker's is very reliable and has humidity and temp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJWW4/ It's currently under $10.

Obviously these are issues you inherited and are doing your best to deal with. I agree that if the snake came in dehydrated, even perfect temps would not help the first shed at your place go right. I suggest your priorities moving forward to be getting that hygrometer and two single-opening hides. Once you have the hygrometer going, you can tell if you need to get a humidity solution going.

Please know that as someone who has had a beeper for about two years now, I really appreciate that you are doing your best for this noodle and improving his life.

It is urgent that you introduce calcium the day you get the gecko. It will help with a lot. Watch these videos for help with supplements. You need at least a 20-30 gallon tank for your Leo. If you have a new Leo, it is best to put paper towel down and use that for about a month. You should replace the paper towel daily or every other day. A mesh lid is fine but I think it is important that you use a uvb light. You will need a heat mat that covers at least half or more than half of the tank. If you need any help beyond this, look at the leopard gecko YouTube channel. She is very helpful and she has covered almost every aspect of taking care of Leo’s. Now onto food, I feed my Leo’s only crickets every three days. Every fourth feed you will want to feed you leo a multivitamin such as herptivite. If you need any other suggestions, please, please dm me for advice.

I honestly just got plants at Home Depot (indoor plants) that wouldn't grow any larger. They usually keep them inside near the garden area. If you want really nice plants i recommend you check Josh's Frogs. Depending on your set up make sure to get the right size plants.

Plants: https://www.joshsfrogs.com/plants-for-pets.html

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The water area is something I add for both humidity and for the skink to swim in. I got plexiglass from my local hardware store and got (silicone sealant waterproof clear) to seal the edges, this separates the water from the land. I should mention it is deep enough. I did add a mist maker fogger water fountain in the water, wire runs through the backside of the tank making its way to the top of the tank then out. The lighting comes from the mist maker.

Mist maker: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek%C2%AE-Changing-Fountain-Atomizer-Humidifier/dp/B00GSKCW70/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538900380&sr=8-3&keywords=mist+maker

Silicone sealant: https://www.amazon.com/08641-Clear-Silicone-Sealant-9-8-Ounce/dp/B000BD0QAK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1538901020&sr=8-7&keywords=silicone+sealant+waterproof+clear

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This build is great I have the perfect size terrarium (small size in link) for this type of skink.

Terrarium: https://www.petsmart.com/featured-brands/national-geographic/national-geographicandtrade-reptile-desert-kit-27781.html?cgid=5000340

Make sure to get mesh, hydro balls, substrate and its your choice on real or fake plants.

Mesh: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00167VVO0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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As far as advise on this setup... water plants everyday and keep humidity high with fahrenheit 70-78. Adding moss helps. Make sure to take your time on the setup make sure everything fits and nothing spill. As well as waiting a few days after setup is done to order red eye skink.

REMINDER: Skinks are very shy make sure to add lots of hide or plants so it won't starve itself.

oh my god. I’m a rabbit mom and I understand your anxiety so hard. how do people not understand how fragile they are? JUST LOOK AT THEM!
I’m so sorry she’s being so selfish about this. I hate when people don’t do what’s best for pets, not only does it prolong their life but vet bills aren’t cheap. Caring for rabbits is hard, and when someone else doesn’t respect that hard work, it really sucks. I hope she starts listening to you soon - for your bun and your sake. <3

I have a few suggestions for tummy issues (I’ve fostered too many buns to count, dealt with GI many times), even though it seems like you know what you’re doing, I figure info can’t hurt.

1. Sherwood pellets - these pellets are so much healthier than any other I’ve found. I find that they help when their poops aren’t solid, rather than the opposite.
   
2. Have you tried telling your mom that she can give leafy greens? even make a cute lil salad to give a couple times a day? Parsley, spinach, lil bit of kale - I’m sure you know but just in case, here’s a good list of leafy greens .
   
3. Get some critical care in case the poops get less and less solid. Maybe if your mom sees you force feeding critical care, she’ll get why treats everyday are irresponsible pet care.

That should be fine for establishing an estimate of what lighting you'll need, but I always go for digital. This is what I use, and I love it.

The reason these are much better is because they're much more precise. They help you better control the environment in the cage. What you have right now, though, should help you figure out how much lighting you'll be needing and from there you can make finer adjustments.

In addition to heat, Bearded Dragons (and many other reptiles) need a bulb which simulates certain different types of sunlight (basically, they need access to the full spectrum of light they'd get from the sun in their natural environment). Ultra-violet B (UVB) is one of these important types of light. Without it, your bearded dragon cannot metabolize calcium in order to grow.

Have you ever heard about how people need sunlight for their bones (namely, to create Vitamin D)? Bearded Dragons are the same way; they need this special type of light in order to create the vitamin which carries calcium into their bones and allows them to grow. Without it, their bodies will eventually start leeching their bones of calcium, and their bones will hollow-out and become porous, a condition known as Metabolic Bone Disease.

At the bare minimum, if price is an issue, I would buy a second lamp hood (~$15 USD) and put in one of these bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSun-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B00A8RHTYU/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1N3OJ3JLSUEJT&keywords=reptile+uvb+bulb&qid=1572426404&sprefix=reptile+uv%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-7

Notice the bulb says 10.0 UVB; this means that about 10% of the light it puts off is going to be the useful kind for your dragon. You don't want to go any less than this.

In addition, you want to make sure that the Bearded Dragon's basking spot is at least 105-110F (41-43 C). You can get infrared temperature guns, or thermometers with probes that you can set in the basking spot. And buy a powdered supplement which contains both calcium and vitamin D3, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Calcium-Vitamin/dp/B000UJSUO4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=N0PJWYXNDPKZ&keywords=reptile+calcium+with+d3&qid=1572426942&sprefix=reptile+calcium%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-4

At this stage, about 80% of your bearded dragon's diet should be insects, powdered liberally with the calcium+D3 supplement at every meal (3 times/day). If you keep things going the way you are, your animal could very easily die from lack of nutrients/exposure to the correct spectrum of light.

Keep in mind, Bearded Dragons are adapted to live in the hot Australian Outback, very near to the equator. If you don't live in a similar environment, you need to do your best to recreate it in your home--that means high temperatures (with your basking bulb), and the correct ultraviolet light (UVB 10.0).

Let me know if you have any more questions.

You could also use some adhesive-backed vinyl (black can also help create your BP feel secure) or another kind of plastic to cover much of the screen top of the enclosure to help keep humidity in. Could be a way to continue using your current tank if you're attached to it while keeping humidity up!

Also, this is slightly off-topic, but if you think you might be wanting to get a quick temperature reading anywhere in the enclosure, a temp gun can be a great tool to have. Certainly not a necessity if you're going to have a thermometer or two, but it can sometimes help in erasing any doubts you may have about the temperature in your enclosure.

This one is pretty solid and affordable. Pro Exotics make one as well but it's twice as expensive.

I would ditch those pellets as substrate and get yourself some slate tile. You can find it at almost any hardware store. You may have to cut some pieces with a tile cutter or wet saw to get them to fit the whole enclosure. You could also just use newspaper or paper tiles if you don't care about asethics.

I would say the most important things is to make sure he has the correct diet, temps and UVB lighting.For a baby you want the basking spot to be at least 105°f and cool side to be around 80°f. Reptisun 10.0 t5 for the UVB source is highly recommended but you can go with a quality mercury vapor bulb that also doubles as a basking bulb. Make sure to use a quality calcium/vitamin dust for the feeders and don't forget to gut load your feeders too.

The poo looks like normal poo to me. You can always find a herp vet that is close and do an initial checkup, they are usually pretty cheap for a wellness check ($40-$80).

Ditch the kale, it's bad for them. Collard greens, spring mix (though take out any spinach), endive, DANDELION greens and flowers are all great for a salad. I wouldn't start feeding lentils and beans until she is eating well on greens just in case she's dehydrated.

How are you measuring the temperatures? I recommend a digital infrared point-and-shoot thermometer like this one. You won't get accurate readings from anything that measures air temperature.

The cool side should be around 85-90^o , the warm side should be 100-110^o and the basking temperature should be 120^o +. This seems high, but uromastyx thrive in this kind of heat. If she doesn't start eating in the next few days there is a good chance it's because of the temperatures. This is from my personal experience. I had a uro who ate, though not much, and raising the basking temperature up to 140^o immediately perked her up. She's been a pig ever since.

EDIT: Another thought.. Those infrared bulbs are fine, but sometimes uros respond better to their basking heat coming from a yellow/white light source, instead of red. If she doesn't bask under your current one, it's worth a try switching it.

Like you've figured out, none of your supplements give your Leo D3. Short-term this isn't the worst thing in the world. Over an extended period of time (or the first few weeks of a Leos life) this is detrimental to their health. Obviously, MBD is the product of not supplementing D3, seems like your "Specialist" pet shop have fallen at the first hurdle.

​

The supplements that you've been given are perfect for a UVB setup, (clickable) this is the UVB kit I would recommend. For the price and quality it can't be beaten. Simply screws in to the top of the enclosure. That's not to say you can't Supplement UVB synthetically, if you wish to opt for this (clickable) this is what I would recommend. Ideally, if you supplement synthetically you want 2 feedings a week (or 1/3rd of your feedings) to be coating in this.

​

If you're able to upload some pictures to imgur.com I would happily "evaluate" your Gecko (I guess? Seems weird to word it like that). It must be noted that MBD, although not reversible, can be halted - in most cases it's not detrimental.

I use exo terra calcium+d3. I cannot tell from the bottle how much phosphorus is in it but according to the amazon product page it is phosphorus-free. I give them dandelions as well during the warmer months, and sometimes organic dandelion greens from Whole Foods.

Is there some kind of specific dietary regimen I should change to? I don't go buy any kind of strict schedule, I just make sure they aren't getting the same exactly green veggie more than 3 days in a row. I use spring mix about 50% of the time becuase it has a variety in it already, and the other 50% of the time I rotate between mustard, romaine, and kale. But if there is a better way to approach their diet, or some other aspect of their diet is inhibiting their ability to absorb the calcium, I will gladly change that...

Thank you so much for your help!

Question on the bulbs, I'm looking at
Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5HO 22 Reptile Lighting Fluorescent Tube
&
Zacro Reptile Heat Lamp 100W with One Digital Thermometer, Infrared Ceramic Heating Non-light Lamps Emitter 110V
Unsure if you know the answer but, neither of those should burn out my dual bulb holder correct?

Also, is https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00300-Herptivite-Multivitamin-Supplement/dp/B00BS96HRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517864253&sr=8-2&keywords=Herptivite

and

https://www.amazon.com/Miner-All-Calcium-Mineral-supplement-Indoor/dp/B01IOALMIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517864211&sr=8-3&keywords=Miner-All+Indoor


alright for calcium and vit? Again, thank you for your help. Just want to make sure my new dragon has everything he needs!

I would recommend applying a triple antibiotic ointment like neosporin to the wound as long as it’s not the “pain relieving” kind. Just apply a light coat with a Q tip every day after soaking him in a providone iodine solution. If you really want to go the silver route, find a comparable product to the curad silver solution antimicrobial gel. Do not use the liquid or oily colloidal silver solutions.

Also I recommend some vitamin A eye drops like these, especially in the swollen closed eye:
Zoo Med Repti Turtle Eye Drops, 64 ml, 2.25 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ0AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1n7gDb7CG4GHC

While the wounds are healing do this twice a day:
Take a washcloth with hot salty water and hold it on the wounds to soak them and clean them.
Spray them with this: http://store.vetericyn.com/index.php/wound-and-skin-care/vetericyn-all-animal-wound-and-skin-care-4-oz-liquid-pump.html
Make sure they do not close over from the top and have pus building up under the scab. Make sure they are closing from the inside. The soaking with the wet washcloth will help this and the vetericyn will keep the wound from getting infected (and be safe for your rabbit).
This is all information our vet gave us about caring for wounds and she is a very good rabbit vet.

As far as bleeding, rabbits are small and bleeding out is a serious danger. Stypic powder can help stop bleeding from small wounds. http://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Care-Kwik-Styptic-Powder/dp/B0002H3RBU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375141400&sr=8-2&keywords=styptic+powder
Clean q-tip in the powder and dab it on the wound.

If you are worried your bunny isnt eating properly, try critical care:
http://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Critical-Apple-Banana-Supplement/dp/B001FKACXO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1375141438&sr=1-2&keywords=critical+care
It says to mix with water. If your bunny isnt eating it, get some canned organic pumpkin or a little bit of banana to mash up with it. This is what we use for sick rabbits at our rescue. You may need to syringe feed her this if she isnt eating and wont eat this.

And consider keeping your rabbit indoors! There are lots of benefits to having a houserabbit, and we see a lot of injured rabbits come in from encounters with wildlife in their outdoor hutches.

Once you have a under tank heater, it will probably be warm enough that you won't need the lamp. I'd also get a thermostat, in my experience heat pads will be 10-20 degrees above where I want them depending on what substrate I'm using (With slate tile it's 95 on full blast, with paper towels/news paper it will get up to 110). You could also just use a lamp dimmer from Lowes/Home Depot attached to the UTH.

Lamps will raise the ambient temperatures more and UTHs will directly heat the ground, which is what leos need, so they're always the best choice. You'll want to get a reliable thermometer that measures ground heat. So, a digital thermometer with a probe or a temp gun. Temp guns are great and can be bought at home improvement stores (but they're cheaper online). The warm side should be around 90 and the cool side should be around 75.

Do you know their sexes? Leos can only be housed together if they're both females and very similar in size. Males will fight and males with females can breed and/or fight. Even if they are both females, I'd be very careful. Bullying can happen even with females, and sometimes it's hard to see the signs because reptiles' social cues are way different than humans. They really always do best when housed alone. If you do choose to house them together, I'd double your hides. Two cool hides, two warm hides. The more hides there are, the less chance of fighting there is.

edit: forgot to say, yes that UTH should be fine. A rule of thumb is that it should cover about a third of the bottom of the tank.

He looks overall pretty health besides his nub tail. Check out this sub often and you'll see lots of posts about geckos with bad depth perception, etc that will be comforting to know is fairly normal.

• Under tank heater like this one is needed for digestion. Much cheaper to get on amazon than a place like petsmart.
  
  
• For feeding I think it's best to use a separate container for bugs. I use the ones like this. Bugs are gonna poop too, so having them in the gecko tank just makes it need cleaned more. Geckos don't need to hunt and can be pretty bad at it, I usually use tweezers to feed mine. It also lets you make sure your insects are also being fed properly. The cricket food you have is fine for them.
  
  
• I find mealworms are easier to work with than crickets. They don't move much and stay alive easier. Keep them in a tank like mentioned above and give them some carrots once in a while. Mealworms especially, your gecko will probably accidentally eat some sand.
  
  
• I offer mine food every other day as adults. I've gotten to where I can see that look on their face when they want to eat. Sometimes they don't want to so I take the insects back out, and one of mine always wants to eat. I had to put her on a diet.
  
  
• Sand is bad because it can block their intestine if they eat too much of it. If feeding with tweezers and an older one (at least a year) sand isn't as big of a concern. I use the carpet you find in stores. You can take it out and wash it dozens of times. Paper towels over the sand would work pretty well for short term.
  
  
• Coat your feeder insects with calcium powder +D3 for every bug. Leave a tiny dish (I use a gatorade cap) of pure Calcium in the tank for if they need extra. They can tell and will go and lick it if they need it.
  
  
• An easy moist hide box is to take an old plastic take-out box, cut a hole big enough for the gecko to fit, tape the cut edge so it isn't sharp, and keep the top on so it holds moisture. Use coconut husk, vermiculite (if you're comfortable knowing he won't eat any going for bugs, make sure it's pesticide free and all that), or this article has a lot of good ideas. Just add water once in a while to keep it moist.
  
  
• Changes in cares, rearranging tank objects, change of seasons, warmth, etc can change feeding habits. If his tail grows back in better it won't be as big of a deal but with how it is he doesn't really have as much fat reserves. If he's not eating and pooping at least once a week you might think of taking him to the vet. One of mine made a huge egg that got stuck so she didn't eat for a month and started losing weight. Had to do some force feeding.
  
  
• You can use one of those small kitchen scales and track his weight.
  
  
• You might not even notice him shed if he does it quickly, but the most common thing I've seen is it getting stuck on toes. If they can't get it off they can lose their toes. Just a small thing to keep an eye on, and the moist hide would help.

Thank you, I will definitely go shopping for an umbrella plant ASAP! Will the monsoon misting system be ok for him or would he prefer a drip system? The supplements I purchased are Zoo Med Reptivite (with D3) and Zoo Med Repti Calcium (with D3). I plan on dusting his food with calcium 3x a week and the vitamin once a week. Thank you for your help, I'm so excited for my little guy!

Amber Technology Reptaid XL Immune Support for Large Reptiles, 1oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006X40ZQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fi0RDbRG4S1Y5

There is a smaller one for animals under an ounce as well.

I found the best bet was to drop it on her greens and let it tack up. Seemed easier than trying to put it down her throat.

And a bit extra on a strawberry once a week because I knew she would eat it all Haha.

Here is my tortoise. Shes about the size of a pro football now.

http://imgur.com/gallery/fjYFXKz

those thermometers are useless. get a digital infrared thermometer, like this one by zoo med, so you can accurately measure the temperature anywhere in the tank. when measuring temps, think about where your snake actually is - measure at the ground level, because that's where your snake spends most/all of its time.

if you are also using the analog hygrometer by zilla, that is pretty useless as well. get a digital hygrometer.

ALWAYS use a thermostat with your heat pad - unregulated heat pads are capable of causing severe burns. i recommend this digital thermostat by hydrofarm. the probe should be placed inside the tank, centered above the heat pad, directly on the glass. if the heat pad does not get warm enough to reach the temperature you set on the thermostat, you need a new heat pad.

covering about 2/3 of the screen lid with aluminum foil, reflective side down, will help hold heat and humidity if you have problems keeping these at the right levels. different substrates also hold humidity and heat differently - if you continue having problems after making the aforementioned changes, you may want to try a different substrate. i use coconut fiber substrate [eco earth] for all of my snakes, including my corn. it's not dusty, it holds moisture well without molding making it very easy to fine-tune humidity levels, it holds/transfers heat very well regardless of how wet or dry it is, and it's great for burrowing.

Make sure you pic up some critical care and some probiotics for post surgery. Hopefully you'll get some antibiotics from the vet but piggie stomachs are pretty sensitive so you should use probiotics also. My boys love the critical care and the bene bac so you shouldn't have to worry about Teemo rejecting it.

https://www.amazon.com/Vivian-Reptile-Warmer-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01M7SP67V - a heat matt ive used since christmas. its fairly resilient and works fine in my bioactive 20 gal setup so you shouldnt have any problems. id recommend the 7watt.

yeah i mean i feed mine crickets primarily, i sometimes throw in dubia roaches or a wax worm for a treat but my gecko wont eat meal worms either so its really fine. make sure you dont mix vitamins - give pure calcium to vitamin/mineral powder in a 5:2 ratio (3:1 if youre feeding every other day). dont but calcium with d3, it should be pure calcium and a vitamin and mineral powder should be used separately.

here’s what i use:
v/m powder: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptivite-Vitamin-2-Ounce/dp/B0002AQB6A

calcium powder: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Calcium-without/dp/B000UJPHL8

I know a lot of people have commented, but if you're not using supplementation, start using ReptiCalcium w/D3 and w/out D3 by dusting his food each meal. If you are, please take him in for a checkup, he looks very underweight and could have something like parasites. Action sooner rather than later could extend the life of your pet :)

I ask:
OP what part of the world are you in where you have to keep this animal in a box like this?

You answer:
> Its a 3 by 2 cage?

That makes about as much sense as telling me what color it is.

> Its a repti calcium brand.

That's not the brand.
The brand is "Zoo Med" and the product is ReptiCalcium (w/ D3?)
But with these symptoms, I think you're using reptivite

IF it is, then we specifically tell people to NOT use that stuff

So... you're still not answering my basic questions.
Please do so if you want to help the veiled.

I see multiple problems here with basic husbandry to be perfectly honest that are all avoidable and shouldn't happen.

The animal is suffering as a result.

I'm looking at a lot fo orange yellow urinates on the branches
Swollen joints, underweight and kept in a box.

> ivermectin wormer

That is an extremely harsh wormer well known to cause issues in dragons- Panacur is what was needed.
This is why you need a reptile vet.
Was a fecal even done to confirm pinworms?

Get yourself some Bene-Bac gel probiotic at any pet shop. Make sure your temperatures are warm enough- the surface of your basking spots should be 105-110ºF. Offer a very wide variety of food- moist things like black soldier fly larvae are very useful.
Then cross your fingers and try to get food into her- Carnivore Care would be good.

You know what you could try that has worked successfully for many peoples animals in the beginning stage of infection, try Reptaid XL- http://www.amazon.com/Reptaid-XL-1-fluid-Ounce/dp/B006X40ZQQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417305739&sr=8-2&keywords=reptaid. People have used this for respiratory infections and stomatitis (mouth rot) and it is a natural blend of herbs that have antibiotic properties and boost the immune system. I've used this for Boo at the beginning of a URI and there really isn't any side effects that I could note.

I would start out with a turkey mash. You can get low fat ground turkey at walmart. The ideal would be to use whole ground chicken but you need a meat grinder. And chop up some veggies into very small pieces like green pepper, mustard greens, zucchini and mix it all up. Mine will eat if I put on fish oil and once a week I dust with calcium/vitamin. Google tegu diet to get lists of acceptable veggies and diet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQPCEOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI6K6H6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't really need a block. Most people use the calcium powder (Also look into versions without vitamin D3, buy both with and without) that you can find at nearly any store. Pet stores certainly will have it, but WalMart near my house has it as well, even though the reptile/fish selection is limited to one half an aisle. Also put some of the calcium without D3 in a little dish (I use a milk jug lid) and they'll take part if they feel like they need more calcium.

Calcium Without D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper)

Non Add-On Item

Calcium With D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper but a lot smaller)



Non Add-On Item

Also look into a separate vitamin.

This will give you the options necessary for size and with/without D3.

No worries. I do appreciate the feedback of "hey, be nicer". I guess it could have been a bit more focused.

As for particular brands? I can offer what I use and I have had good luck with so far, but I wouldn't call my saying it anything more than one owners opinion or anything. I can say I've not done a deep dive of research into the companies and products....

I use Herpivite for a multivitamin, and Zoo Med branded calcium powder (We use the D3 once a week, and non-D3 the rest of her meals).

A common concern with D3 calcium is that they can over dose your pet on D3. In an ideal setup, they would produce all the D3 they need from UV exposure and their normal meals. It's a balancing act, so it's strongly recommended you get and keep both. The bearded dragon discord links this chart as a suggest dusting/feeding plan.

How many crickets per day? You should supplement what the crickets are eating by dusting them with calcium powder when you feed them to the chameleon. This is a well reviewed calcium supplement without vitamin d3. You will want to give him calcium with vitamin D3 a couple times a month. Here is an example of that.

Calcium helps with muscle control and a deficiency could be contributing to your chameleon's prolapse.

Thank you! I got it off amazon, i saw it recommended on a few different threads & it does give very accurate readings! Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Digital-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Reptiles/dp/B0009YJWW4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hygrometer+and+thermometer+reptile&pd_rd_r=dc115e19-8d6d-483d-bf66-deae0ceee0eb&pd_rd_w=9ce11&pd_rd_wg=0q5MQ&pf_rd_p=67c9d84c-d98a-4415-a549-dd3360e9d207&pf_rd_r=98P2SG8ZGD7H5P5B0PBJ&qid=1568476524&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You can feed an exclusive diet of live mealworms (many breeders do). They're relatively easy to keep if you put them in the fridge and throw in a slice of potato or carrot once a week (before you feed your gecko -- I just put mine in a dish for my Leo to eat whenever he is hungry). Make sure you supplement with a multivitamin... I use www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00167S5GC and leave a small dish of calcium http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FTMHFC out.

I bought 2 beardies around mid-May, but I believe they were born around a month earlier, so ours are pretty even in age. With that in mind... my male beardie eats at least 50 3/8 inch crickets a day (we recently gave him some full grown crickets and he ate 15 in a few minutes) - and the female beardie eats maybe 15-20 (at least thats what we see her eat). I also supplement her intake with (this is similar to what I use, couldn't find exactly what I use).. I don't know about the thing on his foot, but everything else could possibly be attributed to lack of energy (nothing to back this up, just an educated guess). I believe the general rule of thumb is to feed them as much as they can eat in 15 minutes.

Carnivore Care is an excellent source for ferrets recovering from an illness. It has helped many of my ferrets.
https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0

Correct! A low level uvb bulb will satisfy d3 requirements. However, the leo's food will still need to be dusted with plain calcium powder. I recommend rep-cal's phosphorous-free calcium powder.
https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00220-Phosphorous-Free-Amphibian-Supplement/dp/B00BS96GLE/ref=pd_lpo_199_tr_img_2/152-9917687-8199219?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=83R8KEXNB72K1WDX39AH

I ordered mine off amazon. My leos actually really like it too! I’m always refilling their little calcium dishes.

This is probably my favorite tool for measuring temperatures in any location in your terrarium. It's extremely accurate for surface temperatures and ambient temperatures.

40 - 50 worms a week, if you feed insects 4 times a week that's 11 worms each day. I recommend getting a calcium powder or liquid calcium since the vitamin sprays sold in stores aren't very balanced. Throw a couple pinchfuls of powder into a plastic baggie with the worms and shake em around a bit to dust them before feeding.

here's a UK link. :)

Technically you're supposed to purchase it from a vet (and obviously if other insects don't work you'll probably need to visit one) but it's also available on Amazon - this is what I use. I still use it every once in a blue moon - like last month when we had -20 temperatures for a week and the crickets were delayed.

I need this carnivore care pet supplement for my sick ferret Dodger. He's having trouble with solid foods so I can use this to make liquid soup for him. Thanks for doing this contest, you're great!

Here's a list of everything I bought to set up, excluding decoration (you can go as expensive or as cheap as you would like in that department):

20 gallon tank - $32.99

Top for the tank $25.28

Heat Mat - $17.46

Dimmer for the Heat Mat (to control temperature) - $12.75

Tile - $0.88/each x 10 = $8.80

Calcium with D3 (for dusting food) - $8.69

Calcium without D3 - $5.41

Digital Thermometer - $6.99

Hygrometer (to measure humidity) - $6.99

And, of course, the gecko - ~$30.00


Total: $155.36

Then, you'll still need to buy or make hides and buy crickets/kricket keeper/food for the crickets and/or mealworms/food for the mealworms.


Disclaimer: I may be forgetting something, I'm not at home right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00200-Phosphorous-Free-Ultrafine-Supplement/dp/B00BS96G1E


Would also recommend herptivite

https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00300-Herptivite-Multivitamin-Supplement/dp/B00BS96HRM

https://www.amazon.com/Reptaid-Supplement-parasitic-bacterial-infections/dp/B006X3YHO8 pricy but worth it.

This is what I use. Works well and is accurate within a half degree or so.

If that doesn't work out, there are different slurries you can buy off Amazon. When we adopted Oscar, our leopard gecko, his little eyes were crusted shut from a failed shed due to the previous owners not taking proper care of him. We had to drop the slurry on his snout a little at a time, and the little guy would lick it off. It's pretty inexpensive. Oxbow Carnivore Care Pet Supplement, 2.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1HVDCbNTDZEQY

This is something you could try.

Oxbow Carnivore Care Pet Supplement, 2.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TQXCDb4122K6R

My toad was the size of a quarter and I fed him 1/4 ml every other day if he was pooping. So depending on your toad size you wouldn’t need much. I’m not sure this is the exact product you should use but it should set you on the right path. Really try to find the Flukers stuff if you can.

Yeah. Whenever my ferrets get sick (I only have one who is a runt who gets sick).. I will feed them Oxbow Carnivore Care.

http://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421335897&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=oxbow+critter+care


It has a milkshake-like consistancy so it is easier to eat. When ferrets are sick - they do not have much energy to crunch their hard food. I also give them Blue Wilderness wet cat food and mix a little warm water in it.

http://www.petfooddirect.com/productimages/3021077011_lg.jpg

Duck soup also works. http://www.petco.com/product/111667/Marshall-Pet-Products-Uncle-Jims-Original-Duk-Soup-Mix-Ferret-Food-Supplement-And-Dietary-Aid.aspx

This is the one I have. I bought two of them almost 5 years ago already, and they are working just fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-34134-Digital-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B0009YJWW4

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Calcium-without/dp/B000UJPHL8/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1449480666&sr=1-5&keywords=reptile+calcium is what I use for my leo. I have a much smaller container of the same brand that has vitamin D in it that i use rarely. I probably would not suggest using a UVB light- they come out at dawn and dusk so a bright light would quite possibly confine them to their hides, as they would assume it is daytime by the light.

When I started dusting Mari's food, he HATED it so much and would almost refuse to eat. I'd have to dust every third bug or so to make sure he at least got some food and some vitamins. The product I was using at the time was the Reptivite+D3 powder.

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It got so bad that I ended up trying REPASHY Calcium Plus after reading lots of good reviews about it.

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It was like night and day! Mari didn't care at all about the REPASHY calcium mix and even bugs that have a ton on them go down the hatch without hesitation.

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We recently rescued a beardie who is much less picky so I've been using up the old powder on his meals, and the other night I threw a few small roaches in with his batch of big ones to get dusted. After I fed the beardie, I took the container into the other room to feed the leopard gecko and I immediately remembered why we had so much of the Reptivite left -- he refused to eat the roaches and I had to go get him a few others without the reptivite on them.

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TL;DR: For my leo it was as easy as switching brands to REPASHY. I accidentally did an experiment the other day and found that one year later he can definitely tell the difference and will not eat the (in his opinion) nasty Reptivite.

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I believe this is what you are looking for.

http://www.amazon.com/Miner-All-Calcium-Mineral-supplement-Indoor/dp/B004JP3XJ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458603210&sr=1-1&keywords=miner+all

I use this calcium 5x a week for a single feeding:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Calcium-Vitamin-Reptile/dp/B005FTMHFC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=49KCZE8NNZY8RZNW9K61

I use this vitamin powder 2x a week for a single feeding:

https://www.amazon.com/HERPTIVITE-Multivitamin-reptiles-amphibians-Bottle/dp/B00076HT3S

https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Carnivore-Care-Supplement-2-5-Ounce/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=carnivore+care&qid=1557356251&s=gateway&sr=8-2

If you're in the US, you can order it on Amazon.

THIS

Is it this one ?

Exo Terra Digital Hygrometer with Probe https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00101KWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FwFjDbVBZ5GB5

Or

Fluker's Digital Thermometer/Hygrometer for Reptiles https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJWW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pxFjDbA112XSH

I have never used that brand so I’m not sure. Here is a few links to the stuff that I use




https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti-Basking-Reptiles/dp/B000255OSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?keywords=basking+lights&qid=1565795394&s=gateway&sr=8-28


https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Slimline-Lighting-Fixture-18-Inches/dp/B00780X1O2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=uvb+bar+reptile+light&qid=1565795346&s=gateway&sprefix=uvb+bar&sr=8-3

This one is kind of expensive, if you look around you can find one cheap, I’m just using this one as an example. It’s the basic one that I see a lot of owners using.

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Outback-Terrarium-Gallon/dp/B07BL2TGLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=reptile+enclosures&qid=1565795444&s=gateway&sprefix=reptile+emclosures&sr=8-3



https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Calcium-Vitamin-Reptile/dp/B005FTMHFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=reptile+calcium&qid=1565795564&s=gateway&sprefix=reptile+calcium&sr=8-3

oh my... I am sorry to be the one that has to tell you this. I wish you had come on here and asked for help months ago. I will try to make this as detailed as possible so you can know what is going on. A veiled chameleon is not a beginner reptile. It is more on the expert side of reptile care. There are several problems here, but the most important, and I want to emphasize that this is an emergency, your chameleon has metabolic bone disease (MBD). Your chameleon is "lethargic" because it has many broken bones (the arrows in this picture point to the broken bones). If you had to walk on broken legs, I bet you would be pretty lethargic too. This disease is because either you didn't feed it enough calcium supplement, like this one, or you didn't have the right UV lighting, like this one.. Both of these are needed for the chameleons bones to be healthy. MBD also causes bulging eyes, and makes the chameleon unable to use her tongue and to aim correctly with her tongue.

A second problem is that she is very underweight, you are not supposed to be able to see her ribs, hip bones, or shoulder blades. She has not been eating well because, either you don't feed her enough, or she stopped eating because her eyes don't work well due to the low calcium. I predict that the only way she will be able to eat at this point would be to hold the bug directly in front of her so she can eat it without using her tongue.

The third problem is that she is dehydrated. These pictures show her sunken eyes, I am guessing she hasn't drunk any water in about a week. that or is chronically deprived.

I don't want to sound mean, but I also don't want to sugar coat this either. It is very obvious that you do not know how to take care of this chameleon. Please, please, please, as soon as you read this, look up the closest competent reptile store (not petco or petsmart). Drive there right now, and donate this chameleon to them for free. They might be able to save it, it might already be too late. If you don't you are going to slowly watch her die a painful death, and it will be your fault. It might be tomorrow, or it might be in a few weeks, but it will be soon.

I know that sounds harsh. I have been raising chameleons for years. Please take my advice, and then get back to me and let me know how it turns out.

This is a good learning experience for you. Next time subscribe to /r/chameleons, show us your set up before you buy a chameleon so we can give you advice, then ask us questions along the way about diet and supplements, water, etc. So we can prevent problems before they become an emergency.

Keep me updated on how it turns out.