Reddit mentions of CyberPower CP1000AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1000VA/600W, 9 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower

I've read 20-25% more than what your system uses on average. I mean you're not going to be doing Intel burn-in tests while your power is out, probably not gaming either....but you do want some overhead...a 300-500w would be enough for most computers.

something like this little 600w guy would be great for most PC's

I picked up this from Amazon when I built my Ryzen build.

I used Outervision to have an idea of the kind of UPS I needed.

I could give you a longer and more detailed answer if you want one, but I'm going to start simple.

The one edxmon linked would probably be fine. Depending on your rig and monitor size and blah blah you'd likely be able to squeeze between 4 and 10 minutes of run time out of it if all you connected was the computer, the monitor, the modem, and your router. The fewer things you connect the longer it would run (so leave the modem and router off the battery if you don't care about being disconnected from the net during an outage).

I don't actually get power outages much, but I do get a lot of periods where the lights in the house dim for a few seconds and then come back up, these periods can be dangerous for computers (in some ways more dangerous than an occasional outage) so I run something with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation, some times also called Advanced Voltage Regulation) which basically ensures that my computer gets a stable and level amount of power all the time, never too much and never too little, by using capacitors built into the UPS to regulate power flow.

This is the actual model I am using right now. I have one of my monitors (the primary one), the computer itself, the router, and the modem connected to it. This means that if the power goes out I don't lose what I'm doing or my internet connection. I've never actually run it until it died but it estimates 15 to 30 minutes of runtime for me in an outage (how much time you get varies greatly with what you're doing, your computer uses much less power when you're editing a document in word than it does when you're playing a game, so the times vary).

This model is inbetween the one linked by edxmon and mine in both price and performance but it still offers AVR.

One thing a lot of people overlook is using more than one UPS. Don't plug one UPS into another one (ever!) but you can connect two to the wall outlet and plug the computer and monitor(s) into one and the modem and router into the other. So if you wanted to start buy purchasing the least expensive one and seeing if it meets your needs you can do that and if it doesn't give you enough time (or you decide you want AVR later) you can buy another and divide items up between them.

A cheaper option than a UPS, if you don't care about the battery backup feature, would be this. https://www.amazon.com/APC-LE1200-Automatic-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B00009RA60/ I had one of those for over 15 years, still works fine. I only had to buy a UPS because the power company has been getting even worse, and power has been going out completely on a semi-frequent basis.

If you want a UPS to be able to keep the whole computer on during a power outage, you'll have to do some shopping around and research. Not all of them can actually keep a modern computer on, you need one that outputs a sine wave, or at least a close enough approximation, for a modern PSU to work. This is the one I use. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/

I don't think the one you linked will keep a PC on, but APC is a more reliable brand. I've actually had a much older CyberPower UPS have the battery start swelling up like a balloon. I only bought the brand again because an APC UPS that outputs a sine wave was like $600, but don't know if they might have a cheaper one now.

edit: They do have a cheaper one now. https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1000G/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/

Cyberpower 1000VA 600W AVR UPS

Got it for free from work. This thing works very nicely and even has a power draw monitor on it as well.

Amazon has priced matched (checked at 10:51AM EST)
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0

> Because the RCCB in my house sometimes switches off, causing some parts of the house to lose power until I manually switch it on (Possibly a live wire touching something metal?). Whilst the power outs and my computer randomly shutting down are two separate things as when my computer randomly shuts down, everything in my room and even connected to my plug socket stays on

I don't know why you'd think these two things to be unrelated. Just because everything else "stays on" doesn't mean that there isn't a possible drop in voltage that is affecting your computer that isn't affecting other electronics/appliances.

The suggestion that has the most merit out of anything in this thread is to get a UPS with power conditioning for your computer.

Yep, I have both my cable modem and wireless router hooked into this UPS.

I combine that setup with a netbook that has an 8 hour battery, no worrying about power outages for me.

Short Answer: Yes, safe bet, can't go wrong (but $$$)

Long Answer: ...

Not exactly as your PC (hopefully) isn't pulling more than 2/3rds of that under max. load. Also something to keep in mind is what else you are plugging into the UPS. Many people put the Monitor as well an accessory or two (like a desk lamp & wireless router/modem) on the battery backup. You can safely put stuff like printers & speakers on the surge protection plugs as they don't pull from the battery.

There is an awesome product called Kill A Watt that you can plug in the wall & see exactly how much juice stuff is using.

But I'm gonna make some assumptions here ... Let's say you want to keep stuff up for at least 15mins (in total blackout) with a monitor, light & modem, likely pushing around ~ 500+ watts , worst case in a "critical gaming session" with everything you want on.

Something like the CyberPower CP1000 or the APC BR1000G would be your best bets.

You can go with a lessor UPS (e.g. less battery power & cheaper), but this will lessen the amount of time you can keep your equipment on & put extra stain on the UPS (or too low, the UPS just won't work & kill the power). Look at a PSU & UPS like a car engine, if you redline it all the time, things will wear out & blow up fast.

I was a long time user of Tripplite and APC, both are good, but caught a really good thanksgiving sale on some Cyberpower units with AVR. They've outlasted every Tripplite and APC I've ever owned. Basic unit, with AVR, or newer revision of what I'm using.

Make sure you get a unit with a user replaceable battery, many of the cheap models don't have that option any more, at least not without soldering and possibly breaking plastic.

Nah, you need an UPS that's at the minimum higher than your computer's peak load. I imagine you'd also want to connect your monitor to it so that it's not cutting out as well. If you have a single GPU, your PC won't be over 400 watts, and you'd have to check your monitor's spec for that.

This 600 watt one would do it.

There are power supply testers out there but it may not test what you wish, you can run Prim95 on it and that will stress it out, if it dies again then you can almost be sure its the PSU. I would trash that Coolmax PSU (power supply) for a corsair 750 or more. You can also update your Nvidia driver and when on the install page select "remove old drivers" that will trash any old Nvidia drivers, also run CCleaner. If youre worried about the wall socket you can also pick up a "decent/cheap" UPS (battery backup) that will kick in and keep your computer running at proper voltage without having a brown out (under power) or a black out (no power). even this little guy will help you even if you upgrade your PSU http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412606992&sr=1-2

If the electricity goes out a lot at your place, get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QZ3UG0/?tag=pcpapi-20

Then you will at least be able to safely shut everything down without risk to the components.

They are free-standing. I believe it's these two:

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000QZ3UG0/

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/

I have one of these and haven't seen any issues yet.

If you just need a few minutes to shut down your machine (these will do it for you), take a look at one of these:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QZ3UG0?cache=2de16ccedc6df6229d48525bd8753184&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1410820519&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2


There is a 900 watt unit if 600 is not enough. The batteries are replaceable but they are not "true sine wave" output (nor do they cost an arm and a leg). This has never been a problem for me or my PC's. I own two of the 600 watt units and couldn't be happier with them.

Power loss can cause data loss if you're in the middle of a write to eight different drives. As far as the power conditioning goes, I don't really know. UPSes are pretty cheap compared to NASes (I have this one and it integrates very nicely with DSM) anyway. It's also nice to plug in your router, cable modem, etc, so you can have a few minutes to an hour of internet time if your power goes.

TBH if I were you I'd just buy a battery operated air pump and connect it to an air driven sponge filter! In fact I'd prbably buy a mains driven air pump too, a T-piece and some non return valves and connect it all up together.. Have the filter running of the mains driven air pump most of the time, so when you get a power cut you have a cycled filter ready to go, just turn on the battery pump!

Very low power requirement for the air pump, will last a long time and can be a real life save in the tank!

Alternatively look into a larger UPS style set up.. They're typically more common for salt-water reef tanks as they're often a lot more complex (and orders of magnitude more expensive!), but no reason not to us it for fresh water.. This will sit plugged in to your main supply, and if/when you get a power cut it automatically switches supply over to battery backup! I'd just stick the bare essentials on UPS though, filter and possibly heater (depending on your country/ambient temperature), no need to run the lights through a powercut!

I'm currently using this one and I was wrong about the heaters, they're not hooked up to it. I think they would drain the battery too quickly, so I only had the powerhead hooked up. With only that, the UPS should last at least a few hours. Will need to hook up heaters and return pump to a gas generator in future!

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481389282&sr=1-8&keywords=backup+battery+power+supply Would i be better off with this?

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343969513&sr=8-3&keywords=uninterruptible+power+supply


Great unit. Had it running in my home's AV closet for years without a problem. Pick the size that works for you. Ultra-reliable.

LOL yes, that's an online version, which is why it's so expensive. A similar rated line interactive model would be closer to $110-120 or so.

Edit: Here's an example 600W CyberPower modelfor $110, and a slghtly larger 720W Tripp-Lite model for $123

UPS question: what are the differences between this UPS and this one?

Which would be more 'compatible' with my g2 550w PSU?

Get a UPS with a surge protector

This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.

>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/

That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.

That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.

I have an UPS (Uninterruptible power supply) that has a voltage readout on the front (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lrtnDbQ9W7FFW) and it automatically levels out the line voltage.

Surge protectors protect against... A surge of voltage, Transient Voltage. This can be helpful in protecting your electronic equipment, but we are also dealing with a Hard Drive, and power can fluctuate higher and lower. In this case a surge protector does nothing if the voltage drops.

Now, if you use a UPS battery backup, you have a constant stead stream of electricity. On top of a surge protector, you are now covered for any dips in voltage as well.

I personally have lost too many Hard Drives when nothing out of the ordinary had happened. Since switching over to having one battery backup at my computer and one behind the entertainment center for my DVR and PS3/PS4 (since they all have hard drives), I have not had a single problem or issue.

I had an original PS3 Fat that worked up until about a year ago, when i had moved and had it in my bedroom because i bought a second PS3 slim for the living room for better energy consumption purposes. The wiring in the bedroom was faulty and tied to the bathroom, which would constantly trip the breaker. The original PS3 only lasted about a month before it just died one day. Now you could say thats just a coincidence, but I know that the power in the room was constantly tripping, and faulty, and the PS3 ended up kicking the bucket.

BTW, I use CyberPower backups... theyre not too expensive and very reliable. I have a few at work, and 2 at home, and have never had an issue. They also dont die like the crappy APC ones do, or get dead batteries after a year or two. I highly recommend for anyone concerned in protecting their HDDs on computers or Consoles with HDDs.

http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404414676&sr=1-2&keywords=cyberpower

I bought https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0 from MicroCenter a while ago. It should be enough to filter somewhat? I don't have the kind of money for that isolation transformer right now unfortunately as we're moving out soon and this is a temporary solution.

Edit: wrong link. Actual ups was http://www.microcenter.com/product/449053/1000VA_UPS_with_LCD_Display

Non-mobile link

Thanks I am going to order this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nuvyDb5VKM0PK

It is on Synology’s website as tested by them.

UPSs are a bit outside my wheel house. How would that compare to this one: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/

these are just fine and 1/4 the price...