Best car polishes & waxes according to Reddit
Reddit mentions of Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
Sentiment score: 7
Reddit mentions: 16
We found 16 Reddit mentions of Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack. Here are the top ones.
- EXCEPTIONAL RESULTS: Advanced technology formula provides a deep gloss and rich, swirl-free results
- NO MORE SWIRLS: Permanently removes swirls and light defects from all paint
- STUNNING SHINE: Produces deep reflections and high gloss
- EASY TO USE: Smooth buffing feel, easy wipe-off, and fast clean-up
- MULTIPLE WAYS TO APPLY: Formulated for use by Hand, DA Polisher, or Rotary Buffer
Features:
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 9.3 Inches |
Length | 2.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 32 oz. |
Weight | 2.20021337476 Pounds |
Width | 3.8 Inches |
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#11 of 238
I took delivery of my 3 in February of this year (also multi-coat red) and did something very similar to what you are doing. I did have full front PPF (XPEL) installed the day after I took delivery, and then I drove the car for 3 months until temps warmed up. I did the following DYI:
A friend of mine bought a White Model 3 and I did these same steps for him in July (he bought all the materials and the beer :) Both cars are looking great.
Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight
About a month ago I did a full detail which included:
All applied with a Porter Cable DA polisher and some high quality Micro Fiber towels
Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!
Here's what I learned:
Buy the equipment:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html
https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)
You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)
Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO
https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG
Claybar the car:
https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS
It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).
The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.
Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.
My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.
Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
Yeah I got confused, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 that is what I ended up buying, so it was correct to use this right? It did not get rid of the swirls at all however, should I try M105 or something, not sure what heavy cuts is.
50% off 32oz M205 polish on Amazon!
Start with a polish instead. Always least aggressive. M205 if Amazon ships to you or maybe you can find some Meg's Ultimate Polish at an auto shop.
I use Meguiar's M105 then M205 on my headlights.
So after writing all of this, I realized scratches seem to be your main concern, not overall paint correction. I'll leave all this info here just in case though.
For the scratches specifically, grab the basic Dr. Colorchip kit, and you won't need to worry about polishing! Otherwise doing it by hand is going to be way too much work.
If your budget is $300 you can easily afford an entire budget kit, all the way up to a DA poilsher! This is if you avoid the Meguiar's starter pack, of course.
&nbsp;
Washing and claying:
&nbsp;
Polishing:
&nbsp;
Total: $203
And that's assuming you start from absolutely nothing!
oh boy now you are getting in detailing! what your going to need is meguiars 205 finish polish, a DA polisher. and a lake country orange cutting pad and a backing pad (theres one that comes with the harbor freight one, but its considered trash)
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC?keywords=meguairs+205&amp;qid=1536994013&amp;sr=8-1&amp;ref=sr_1_1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here’s a straightforward shopping list and beginners guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.
Shopping List:
Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q
Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1
Buffing Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V
Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ
Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT
Wax - Your preference
Here’s the guide:
1 – Tool Prep
Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.
2 – Wash
Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.
3 – Clay Bar
Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.
4 – Compound Buffing
Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.
5 – Inspection
Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.
6 – Polish Buffing
Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.
7 – Inspection
Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.
8 – Wax
Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.
It depends on how aggressive you were with this "magic eraser". You say it dulled the surface rather than scratched it, which indicates that the scratches are very fine and very shallow. This should be easily repairable by just polishing it out with a very fine grade polishing compound. M205 is a popular choice. You can find it on Amazon or in most hardware/auto stores. You can (and should) post in /r/autodetailing if you want more responses.
Amazon has the big bottle of M205 for $18
Sorry, I called it the wrong name. It's Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish. My plan was to use M105 OR M205 to polish, and NXT to wax. In between those two steps I was told I could use Isopropyl Alcohol. I don't know if this is true or not but that's definitely a cheaper option, lol.
Torq22DDA: Torq22dD
Pads: ChemicalGuys orange then white for finish
Compound: Meguiar's M205
Ceramic Coat: Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light (didn’t use the exo to humid for application)
Sealant: Gtechniq C2 Liquid Crystal v3
Microfiber: Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (do not skimp out on your MF!)
Hi, I'm really new to detailing so can you explain what you did exactly? I googled your terms and got these.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
They are both polishes, right? Those sure are expensive..And you need a orange pad? A white pad? I see those pads in the first link I posted, detailedimage..The total cost for a newbie to do this is like around $60-70? Damn..I might have to live with the few scratches. Trying to invest in buckets and the whole newbie starter kit.
Unless you can bang out that from the back there's no hope to straighten it with home tools. It can be done from the outside with a stud welder + puller (video) but this is something best left to pros. It's much easier to replace the door for ~$200-500 at a junk yard, search car-part.com -- thats what my insurance did for a similar issue, came out to almost a thousand bucks at the body shop when you add the paint and labor on. But if you do it yourself you might be able to just get one in the right color and not paint it.
If you just want to fix the paint, just do the touch up. Call your dealer to get a small jar in the right color. You can fix the other less deep scratches with polish (heavy cut, light cut).
Also check this channel out if you are interested in how professionals do it: https://www.youtube.com/user/tussik01/videos